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Very thorough! And your patience is remarkable- those A-arm bushings were something! May I ask- why did you use Pirate Jack? Looks like great quality stuff- but just curious. I guess a donor car is another way to go about the swap..I imagine any/all require spindle change? (Lazy And Cheap)

Thank you for your reply! I missed that the link was in the description.

Where the heck can you find these tools for a few hundred dollars? Every where I look the kits start over a thousand. Not economical for one engine.

The easiest and most definitive way to tell is to look at the engine serial number on the front of the block under the driver side head. It's very easy to get to with a brush to read and outright says 318 or 360. Manifolds and intake won't tell you much since many 318s came with 360 heads and manifolds in the 80s, my police car has them.

If I take it out I'm replacing it 😂

I thought shims go behind the bearing, not in front.

FYI . When the gears are matched dot to dot, you are actually compression stroke on #6 cylinder. Also using a degree wheel & dial indicator takes most of the guess work on camshaft centerline. Just saying

Excellent presentation

A straight up 100% score for a video that teaches AND explains!! Love it! Thanks!! Subscribed!!

60 back cut on valve ? Good instruction video . I just run my seats a little more narrow. Helps with flow .

Good work as usual. Enjoying following your progress on this truck. Looking forward to it all coming together!

Nice job Yoshi. Sad that you can’t get decent replacement parts these days but being a Mopar anything used would be more expensive than gold so I guess we should feel lucky have some aftermarket support. Maybe?

With the key on I have the same voltage on both in and out field wire around 11V and 12.1V on the output. I have Same reading when I unplug the regulator and check the voltage on the green wire and blue wire in the wiring connector with the key on. I try with the jump wire and no change in Voltage. I bench test the alternator and it goes up to 16V. I try with a new voltage regulator and new alternator same result Not sure where to go from there.

This was several years ago, I hope you are still monitoring this channel. I have been looking for something like this for a while. TY,TY,TY. I have looked everywhere for wiring diagrams and they are just not available to the general public. You need an account with All Data or something. I even ordered a repair manual from Haynes and when I found out there are no wiring diagrams, I sent it back and they gave me my money back. I'm thinking about just jumping out the relays, if I can find them. I have a 2007 Buick Lacrosse that has been sitting for two months. The bypass and re-learn process just doesn't work on this thing. Can I take a hot wire from an ignition on and put it to the starter relay at the 30 or 87 terminal, which ever one enables the starter and another one to the fuel pump relay to enable it? There are two starter and two fuel pump relays in the fuse box under the hood. So when you turn the key on all four are enabled. I don't care what color the wires are, I'm sure they will be different anyway. Do you know if that will work and are there any other relays that I have to concern myself with. I am desperate.

Kudos. the truck is really coming together nicely! I like the way you do things, and your work arounds. When a guy has a Dodge, not a Chevy or a Ford truck, parts just aren't as plenty-full. You should have 100K subs.

😎👍

Do you ever do a live stream? Where can I buy Yoshimoshi merch?

Knurling would have been so much easier.

Thank you! I think I know why my battery is not being charged . I

OLÁ Yoshimoshi 24/07/24 Dependendo do sistema de fabricação as válvulas elas NÃO SÃO RETIFICAVEIS. O aparelho manual de retificar sédes de válvula "trepidou" durante a apresentação. Deve haver uma diferença de 1/2° entre séde e válvula, aumentando na parte superior da área de assentamento na válvula. A correção deverá ser feita (e há como o fazer) na séde. Na válvula só se for constatado o sistema de fabricação da válvula. Roberto Udo Krapf

Nice video! I feel like I was just listening to Nicholas Cage if he never became a movie star. 😂

Awesome video demonstration 🍻

I hate my LG dishwasher, very stinky.

Nice 👍

Good video. You basically exemplified nearly every experience I have when substituting any after market item on any piece of equipment! BTW…the background music is loud, irritating and unnecessary.

I’ve been trying to get this flange off with a torch for an hour lol

Thanks for for a very detailed video, specifically thanks for safety tips!!!!

Thanks for the info, This is why a person would only want to bypass it with the resistor, unless they were going to go back to basics with a carberator and other basic parts.

Buddy, you’re a lifesaver

Brings back great memories. I had the 904 in my 72 Duster. One of the first trans I took apart back then. No you tube etc. Only the books and brain matter

Thanks

Thank you , I'm now unstuck !!!

That was a good job going through the set up of the rear but i have never set one up that didn't start off with at least a .060 pinion shim yours did not have one so your pinion depth is not right and it shows after you applied your marking grease if you put ashim under the pinion and re check your marking compound i bet it will be center

You are a very smart person and you did this with out all them expensive,Tools this show that if you Have some skills and a little knowledge you can get the job done thank you for your time and patience to share your knowledge

I did this on an old tractor tank a few years ago. It was not POR15, different brand, but it did not work at all. Despite following the instructions exactly, I'm still dealing with the epoxy chunks peeling off inside and the rust is worse now. I hope yours works out better than mine.

Just wondering how long it will last when exposed to fuel....ethanol and the additives they use in today's gas is the main culprit for moisture absorption.... I have done boats where I pulled over 5 gallons of water mixed in the fuel... Pure gasoline does not absorb as much water from the air as E10 or become as corrosive as quickly.

Great video! My spindle sheared off at the inside bearing while underway sending all the parts out into the world. This video is invaluable. Thanks!

That was a good video. Watching as I'm turning my 82 E350 into a 4x4, and I need to swap the front yoke for the cv type.

Jap engineers drink Saki on their lunch time. No other possible way to design something like this.

Asking this for others: At 2:55 in the video, you say to "probe on the blue wire terminal." The video then immediately fades to the next subject. We do this on the FIELD stud on the back of the alternator, since the blue wire connects to that stud and the ignition switch, rather than using my bed-o'-nails or poking the probe through the rubber boot, and we'll get the same signal anywhere on that path. RIGHT? This part is for me: Car-guy by birth, Ford guy by owning a '76 Mopar. But the big forklift here at the shop is a 1983 CHAMP, powered by a 225 Slant Six. Yesterday, it quit charging. (I noticed the lights were dim and didn't surge with RPM, subsequent starts were slow, etc.) The wiring is simple as it gets. SPST toggle for power, push button for start. Redundant ground circuit. No voltmeter nor ammeter in the circuit. Checked all 4 wires for continuity. Confirmed grounding of ALT and VR. After using jumper cables for a start, it runs (until the coil can't make spark). When I remove the negative terminal from the battery post, there's a half-second delay and then the engine dies. (The delay is odd to me.) This tells me the charging system IS NOT working, and it's running off the battery. Loosened the belt. With switch off, alternator spins freely. Switch on, alternator resists. To my cave-man mind, that means the field is energized, the alternator is working, and the voltage regulator is asking for charge. This tells me the charging system IS working. Contradiction ERROR: Stack overflow. DIV/0. Schrödinger's charging system; Both charging and not charging. Danger, Will Robinson! So, is this damned thing unable to charge simply because the battery voltage is high enough to fire the coil, but too low to energize the field? (See, a Ford would never strand me this way!)

Porque cuando paras de soldar sigue tirando gas 22:34

Porque cuando paras de soldar sigue tirando gas

Porque cuando paras de soldar sigue tirando gas

Porque cuando paras de soldar sigue tirando gas

The 318 has a rather small 2bbl carb. The 360 2bbl carb is quite a bit bigger, like the 2bbl on a 400. I guess that only works if no one has put a 4bbl intake on it.

I honestly feel like I understand voodoo now, good-bye auburn with 290s. Awesome video, removed a lot of fear of doing this myself.

I thought the video was great thanks for posting it. I realize the marking compound confirmed a proper setup. I may have missed any discussion about pinion depth. Do you usually check under the old pinion bearing for shims? Or do you use the measuring jig that goes underneath the caps? I thought everything was covered very well except for that.

How did u know what u joints to order??

Did you replace the front servo rings?

Exactly what I needed. Thanks