When I have used mig wire for tig welding. To get it straight I put one end in the bench vise and use an aircraft safety wire pliers on the other end and give it a few twists and it comes out as straight as tig filler wire.
Hello, Pipewelder here. I used to weld sch5 316 piping or what’s called sanitary piping. For pharmaceutical plants. We would butt up the joints, maybe use a 1/16th to get started and fuse the rest, then cap it with a 1/16th or 32nd Wire. I need to try to use that safety wire on some welds. Not a Bad Idea
@@Shawn_lsx yeah I always hold a 6” piece of 1/16th filler in case I get a hard start or I see a gap starting. But typically it’s just establish the burnout and shift lol
Where do you obtain the stainless curved joints, 45, 90, 120,160, degree, number 1 , problem is big block in a tri-five. ,exhaust port #5, because of steering box , some go up 90, some go down, acute, welding angle.
I've worked with DSM and BMW n54 turbo manifolds. In both communities, schedule 10 or schedule 40 is "standard" for turbo manifolds. Why is it that I always see 16 gauge or similar for ls turbo manifolds? It's a much thinner wall. I'm not calling you out or saying you are wrong. I'm just trying to understand so I can properly build a ls manifold.
I've been going back and forth with material thickness aswell. What did you end up using? Have a buddy that swears on schedule 10. Says to stay away from 16 gauge.
I think you got some bad info on the color of the weld. You want no color in your weld. You want it to be shiny silver. That color is from oxides in your weld, The heating of the chromium in the stainless acts as a catalyst to the oxidation process. The color is created within the oxide layer which is microns in thickness. The light waves that enter the oxide are refracted differently based on the oxide layers thickness. This makes only certain light wave spectrums able to enter and leave. This is called thin film interference. The hotter you get your alloy the more likely you are to start changing the chemical makeup of the alloy. You will start loosing your chromium, molybdenum, nickel, ect From ionization. Also you will not harden or temper 300 series stainless with heat because it is an Austenitic stainless. Im not a metallurgist but this is my understanding. This will give you plenty to research.
If you properly sharpen the tungsten, the size doesn't really matter. and regardless of the tungsten diameter you still need the same amount of heat to melt the 1/16 filler wire. running a smaller tungsten doesn't change the melting properties of the filler wire.
oh no melting the same grade metals together is a no no. wtf do you think filler wire is? it said 304 stainless on the roll, hes welding 304, some of you fucking people dude.
Great explanation. I have always wanted to be able to fab a turbo header for my car and you helped me get that process started. Thanks!
When I have used mig wire for tig welding. To get it straight I put one end in the bench vise and use an aircraft safety wire pliers on the other end and give it a few twists and it comes out as straight as tig filler wire.
@@Aloneintgewoods Also a good idea, just go slow and not spin it too much or it snaps off.
Spending my day with all the #MRW videos! #IYKYK #shewbuddy #RMRW2021
we love your Motion loyalty, Amy!
Hello, Pipewelder here. I used to weld sch5 316 piping or what’s called sanitary piping. For pharmaceutical plants. We would butt up the joints, maybe use a 1/16th to get started and fuse the rest, then cap it with a 1/16th or 32nd Wire. I need to try to use that safety wire on some welds. Not a Bad Idea
We would just fuse all the stainless tubing at most plants. Only if a gap would we use filler, which was extremely rare.
@@Shawn_lsx yeah I always hold a 6” piece of 1/16th filler in case I get a hard start or I see a gap starting. But typically it’s just establish the burnout and shift lol
Just began to check this channel out.
PS reference by vice grip garage
Great tips !
Cheers mate .
♤
Where do you obtain the stainless curved joints, 45, 90, 120,160, degree, number 1 , problem is big block in a tri-five. ,exhaust port #5, because of steering box , some go up 90, some go down, acute, welding angle.
MIG, steel, TIG, stainless, tube cutter, or hack saw, plasma cutter is expensive?
I’m 20 is it too late to start fab ?
Good stuff. Looking forward to more.
Any reason not to use a 1/16" tungsten?
how do you weld around the merge?
I've worked with DSM and BMW n54 turbo manifolds. In both communities, schedule 10 or schedule 40 is "standard" for turbo manifolds. Why is it that I always see 16 gauge or similar for ls turbo manifolds? It's a much thinner wall. I'm not calling you out or saying you are wrong. I'm just trying to understand so I can properly build a ls manifold.
I've been going back and forth with material thickness aswell. What did you end up using? Have a buddy that swears on schedule 10. Says to stay away from 16 gauge.
How does one start a business doing this?
Great info Doug. Thanks. Keep it coming.
how to fit the collector 4 x 1 ?
They do make .035 filler ... and 304 is shit filler , use 308 or 312 .
I think you got some bad info on the color of the weld. You want no color in your weld. You want it to be shiny silver. That color is from oxides in your weld, The heating of the chromium in the stainless acts as a catalyst to the oxidation process. The color is created within the oxide layer which is microns in thickness. The light waves that enter the oxide are refracted differently based on the oxide layers thickness. This makes only certain light wave spectrums able to enter and leave. This is called thin film interference. The hotter you get your alloy the more likely you are to start changing the chemical makeup of the alloy. You will start loosing your chromium, molybdenum, nickel, ect From ionization. Also you will not harden or temper 300 series stainless with heat because it is an Austenitic stainless. Im not a metallurgist but this is my understanding. This will give you plenty to research.
Stand the F still... I'm Gonna need my Motion sickness tablets aft this
Lmao 😂
Exactly
That's why they call it motion raceworks I guess he cant sit still
Good tips bro
i would go for a 1/16 tungsten and keep the 1/16 filler instead of 3/32 tungesten and whatever dia that tiny filler wire was
If you properly sharpen the tungsten, the size doesn't really matter. and regardless of the tungsten diameter you still need the same amount of heat to melt the 1/16 filler wire. running a smaller tungsten doesn't change the melting properties of the filler wire.
May I ask a question! How many gas need to adjust? 10 or 15 or 20 ? 😊
WTF your using safety wire for filler rod..
oh no melting the same grade metals together is a no no. wtf do you think filler wire is? it said 304 stainless on the roll, hes welding 304, some of you fucking people dude.
too much speaking and too less header
If it's for a turbo, it's even worse.
Making us fucking dizzy
Try, NOT Paceing
You are moving around too much.