I absolutely love this attitude and mindset in your statement, "This is my own adventure, I just invite you in to watch". I think more people in general, and especially on any social media would really benefit from having this attitude and mindset. If you (people in general) just do what they love and "invite [others] in to watch", then the people will either show up or they won't, no skin off your back because you still did what you loved. BTW, I am enjoying watching your adventure, thanks for inviting me in to see it.
I've designed FileMaker Pro databases for 30+ years and spent countless hours doing similar fix and repair and touchups. They were so annoying at times. I've often thought that I should do something that had a finality and I couldn't go back and update. After watching this video, I've changed my mind. I see that no matter what you do, if you seek perfection it will be agonizing. I've pushed objects about on the layout pixel by pixel and changed colors by 10, etc. And rewriting scripts so the layout wouldn't flash and would open to the exact point on my screen... Trying to open a window in an exact screen placement is quite similar to the work you did, just not as sweaty. Now I can return to my work in peace knowing that no matter what I do I would end up with frustrations and stress trying to achieve what I want. Thanks. You have my respect for your craftsmanship.
Very good detail. I'm doing a similar project. Diesel engine so 304 instead of 321. Same diameter and schedule 10S too. But this is for low speed, 4000 RPM and being a V8, space is a premium so going log style. Individual port flanges, plasma cut from bar stock. Zero root gap too, tacks can be done without purge or sugaring. I only had to cut 17mm sections which I did with a pipe cutter. Purge root pass, then fill with water to fill/cap. Yes, welding pipe full of water is possible with stainless. Greatly reduces warpage. These are for twin, light turbochargers for quick spool. All the number crunching shows 10 PSI boost at 1400 RPM and drive pressure ratio under 1.4 maximum. I am playing with Garrett VNTs so there is a lot of tuning possible with the vane position controller (RPM, TPS and MAP). TPS and RPM dictate % load or torque, this infers injection quantity which then does a 3D lookup for required MAP. I want a clear exhaust gas, no coal rolling but doing this with purely mechanical injection requires turbos with fast response, only VNT will work. Only looking for 235 Hp.
I've never tried welding pipe full of water. I do turn the purge on for tacking - not needed, but not hurting and I've got to pay the argon bill either way. So I'm not bothered by it.
Fantastic viewing Craig, I love watching your learning journey… apply new techniques, gain experience, take a day off, come back, try new things…. it’s all about those incremental improvements! 👍
Most incredible header ever. Amazing work. Thanks for taking us along so we can experience at least 0.1% of the extraordinary effort required. Congratulations. 🎉
. Maybe there is something to single-cylinder motors after all your trials and tribulations. A work of art - congratulations. A shining symmetrical success.
I agree with @jimsiggy great job, and if I may add a tip, when you let off thee pedal to stop your weld swirl the tungsten and let out of the pedal slow and you will get a cleaner less bumpy and pitted tie in, also I would suggest increasing your post flow and not moving the cup from where you stop to help cool the part and your tungsten, if your tungsten turns black when you stop welding you have inadequate post flow and accumulate oxides on the tungsten turning it black.
Thanks - Great tip - I was feathering and figured out the swirl by the time I was done. I know I've seen others do it...it's mostly a matter of keeping focused/relaxed. I ran out of gas after the root and the next tank that I got I'm pretty sure was contaminated. I increased post flow and just couldn't get it to weld nicely. I also don't do this enough to just know that it was a gas problem. I reported it when I swapped out that tank and the next tank was completely different. Welded much better. I was a little gutted as it was too late and I should have taken that second tank back. My welding supplier did move me to the pro price schedule instead of the home welder price (saving me 35%) so that was nice.
Very ambitious! I thought maybe that might be too ambitious but after seeing the final result, that is truly artwork, beautiful and worth all of the time! I have a lot of respect for you getting all you have done accomplished as long as you continue to enjoy it. Thank you for the content, I hope it pays off, I know that makes it even more work!
Dude, that thing is freaking amazing! Good job... No f that freaking great job!!! I made a crappy log for my project and it's crap. Crappy crap! Your headed is a freaking work of art! Just wow...
A true craftsman in all endeavors! Look forward to more fab! Thanks for taking the time to film and explain caveats you've learned along your journey. Subscribed 😊
To you Sir, I take my hat off to you, as a first-time subscriber to your Chanel this was simply the best video I have ever seen, "Why" because just like you, I too am not great at tig welding, but you sir have taken me to a greater level of confidence, so great of you to say, your not so good at this but you showed us how to be patient and to pressure, well-done sir, looking forward to your next video,
TIG welding is a really specific skill that takes time to develop and requires time to keep sharp. If you were welding every day - you'd be great at it and all the dimes would stack and everything would be Instagram worthy...being realistic about what you can achieve doing this infrequently is important to see.
Oh man it turned out amazing! Have once had to stick weld the last section in the middle of collector for the last runner to get it welded. Super editing on the many days and hours for make this video! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Awesome work Craig. I weld for a living and I still enjoy watching videos like these. No matter what I will still learn something new. We always have more to learn, no matter the experience level. I wanted to ask. Can you share some some info about those adjustable towers you have on the table that you use to hold up the runners? Looks like a cast iron pipe with a bolt in it. I really like the idea was hoping you would share some info on it. Cheers and keep up the great work.
Thanks. Those are my clamps for the table. I just bought some welding clamps, cut the fixed end off, and welded on a bolt. It was a lot cheaper than getting the real ones. I cover these in the welding table fixtures video.
40C in the garage... damn... time for a mini split or something to keep it down (or up during the winter) to something that is reasonable. great work we all enjoy the journey.
We were under that heat dome for a week...Arizona can keep their weather! It's either +30 or -30 ºC in this part of the country. I broke out the 36" barrel fan for when I'm not welding.
A little tip is to weld every joint directly. Like a clock. Say I start at 6 and stop at 9. After that start at 3 weld to 12. The continue to 9 to 12 and last but not least weld 6 to 3. Then you won't get the problems with the pipes to pull at any direction.
Looks amazing! About to start welding up some V-blocks so I can compensate for the lack of a lathe to make threaded standoff spacers for mounting 98 Mercedes CL seats in a 64 Riviera. Been using the notebook idea for building stuff and its worked out great being able to reference back to what worked when it comes to making the other side.
Great Video! I wish I found this months ago. Thanks for sharing your process, Im building my first Stainless manifold and it has been quite the learning process and kick in the a$$ haha. I have learned the art of patience on this one.
Just realised in the second time of watching I never thanked you for the little mention 🙂! You did a great job. I'm going to be undertaking my first manifold in the next few days and will be uploading the results for the world to see on my channel. Won't be half as comprehensive, I'm a terrible RUclipsr 😂
Love your work mate. Using your cf intake vids to build my intake 🤫 mates doing the double walled lower cnc flange as we speak and Im currently on the chamber plug. Following your methods, all hunky dory so far 👍👍 Appreciate the guidance
Be proud its not easy . Give you a tip tack it in 12 o'clock 6 o'clock 9 o'clock and keep rotating in that sequence tacking until its tacked all threw then run with it your 100 % correct trial and error 👍
Great videos man! U are a lot like my self. I've got one tip for you. I started using a sheet of aluminum on my welding bench and its made a huge difference when it comes to not getting grounding arcs. I didn't notice any in the video, but its bound to happen with a steel table. Keep up the great work.
Thanks - great tip. The need for a decent ground when you're welding on a table with mill scale can't be under looked. I've had the arc problem in the past.
Yeah, don’t be too rude about you. You have the professionalist (? I’m not a native engl speaker) intention, you know what good quality is. So it’s useful to learn some by you. And you have a funny manner to tell things 😁 plus I know that at the end it will look good anyway, as also working good. Thank you, you do great ⭐️
With any turbo manifold I assume it's going to warp after a few thermal cycles. After you break in the engine and you've gotten a few thermal cycles in the thing you probably want to resurface that flange again.
Appreciate *all* the tips ! Any idea what your current settings were ? I'm mid fabrication of a similar manifold for a Lancia twin cam - just at the 'spotting' stage having gotvit into shape with equal length pipes - more luck than judgement ! I found a lathe invaluable for this - not sure if your plumbing pipes are the same on your side of the pond, but here in the UK, 40mm solvent weld waste pipe is a really goof fit into the pipes and makes an ideal 'joiner' to get everything into shape. I solvent welded a 'coupler' to the straight plastic spacers and trued them up on the lathe to keep everything square - then cut the stainless pipe to thr required length, again using the lathe to keep everything square. Downside with a lathe - especially working in a small garage workshop is that you don't grind inside anymore - you get a bit paranoid about grinding dust ! Amyway - should be finishingcrhe spoting up next week - then it's the main welding - after quite a big of practice to get my welding a bit better !!
I wish I had the space for a lathe! Amperage was 1 A per thou minus 10 %...around 100 A for this size pipe. I've got a foot pedal control, so I never know where I was welding exactly.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Thanks for the reply ! If you ever get the chance to squeeze one in - a lathe is a must - but then you start to hanker after a mill, then maybe a tool and cutter grinder, then perhaps a ... .. .. Machine tools have a habit of breeding !
@@mrb.5610 Oh, I know...I have managed to stay out of trouble so far, but I also grew up in a fully equipped machine shop. In some ways, knowing what you could do is "worse". LOL.
I learned this from another guy but thoriated tungsten, you can bend the end of the tungsten to get into those hard to reach places where you're trying to put a straight tungsten in an area that it just doesn't fit so good, just a tech tip you can try and not try it up to you
watching this in 2022 and my original comment still stands. you should of outsourced the facing of the exhaust to head mating, getting those two right is make or brake. Id of welded on tabs that were threaded to hold the exhaust manifold to the facing machine. That way you can face it at a whim if need be. those two mating surfaces are the most crucial. most heat, most pressure in one spot throughout the whole car. important.
It's not installed yet...while it didn't move much, I'll have it surfaced when I'm ready to bolt the engine together. I've still got to add the EGT bungs at some point.
The flat bar that you use to weld the flange of the headers, is aluminum or metal? How tick is the plate? Very amazing work that you do, you'r a craftsman.
I'll release the video in a few weeks. I got it from Amazon - needs mods to work. www.amazon.ca/Mophorn-Professional-Burnishing-Finishing-Stainless/dp/B07J6G4W25/ref=asc_df_B07J6G4W25/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335074856084&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9675272520138543160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001300&hvtargid=pla-600256401543&psc=1
No thanks! Every time I see a nicely welded chassis, I'm blown away by the skill. Only those who have attempted can understand the extreme skill involved.
It would be agood idea to checkout welders that do this for a living and checkout there tube turning jig clamps like ball joint swivels rhat fit inside tubing and out side .👍
It looks great but do u think that just fusion will hold up..a turbo builds a lot of pressure which could blow those welds?and the fact that your grinding them down..I don't know if I agree
Filler wire (347) was used and non of the joints were ground in the end. I have never built a turbo header before, but I'm confident this will be fine. If it's not - I'll do it again.
Would you be able to actively cool the pipes (gently, with a box fan a meter or two away or something) to speed up the process? Or would that wreak havocs with the welds?
I was making the mistake of blowing compressed air on the parts to cool as I welded. They shrink like crazy. My sense of things is you just have to accept that welding a runner may take an hour or so to complete.
Hi, I got a question unrelated to this video but figured there's a better chance you see this on a fresh one. So, when you were making your panels you sprayed primer directly on the mould that would then transfer on a finished part. Is it regular primer or something designed for this purpose? Any advantages other than ease and disadvantages over priming a part after releasing? I'm making a cf bootlid and want it painted body colour but only from the outside and visible cf weave on the inside so this seems like a perfect technique not requiring any masking. Looking for any info and tips so anyone with experience in this please chime in.
@@ccob122 you mean peelply texture on the surface that is not facing the mould? Or will weave pattern be visible throuhg primer? Either way, trunk lid will be 3 parts: outer skin, inner skin and a middle that has locking mechanism attached. So both inner and outer skin will be facing mould surface on the visible side. And I assume if there is imprint through the primer it can be wetsanded or just laid thick enough to avoid this?
It's a special vinyl ester primer meant for this purpose. The mold surface is very smooth so having the primer also come out perfectly is an added bonus and less work. The problem you will have is that the mesh imprints a texture on the backside of the panel. You may want to experiment with options to reduce the print through on your parts.
Not the peel ply - the infusion mesh leaves an indent. It's not visible on the front side of the part but is on the back. So not that sort of print through. It's just not completely smooth on the backside. Sounds like it won't be a problem with the mold you're describing. Good luck.
Looks good! I'm curious for everything to do the job, start to finish, how many hours did this take? To make the back purge block, making the jig, everything, how many hours?
Im a bit late to the party. But i make alot of pipe manifolds and the biggest enemy is shrinkage. I always make the primaries 3-4mm Long than needed to account for the shrinkage.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I've not read through the comments ha! I stumbled across your Carbon Intake Manifold for research purposes and found this video on the manifold.
@@ThrottleStopGarage It's especially useful with TIG and MIg as that crater is often a hole through the end of the weld. And your comment about being comfortable is spot on.
Fantastic video. I'm a novice when it comes to welding. I have to ask though, where did you get the head-side manifold flange from? I plan to fab a manifold for my 5-cylinder this spring and that flange is perfect.
Beautiful. Entertaining and informative as always. I love the pride and time you take in your hobby work. This may be a question for later, but have you decided on your EFI computer? Will you continue with the DIY theme and get a DIY ECU? i.e. Megasquirt, Speeduino, or RusEFI Proteus?
Thanks and good question Paul. Given that I am running a drive by wire throttle body, I can't run MS or others - MAXX ECU is going to get the ECU business. While I've EFI swapped cars, I've never wired one from the ground up. I'm excited for that part of the project.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Just FYI RusEFI Proteus supports up to twin eTBs. Already demo-ed on a BMW V12 with two by-wire TBs. Either way looking forward to you getting there!
Some beautiful fabrication work right there, I think I need to move to Canada and become one of those annoying neighbours who keeps popping round 😂 What are your plans with the wastegate?
Thanks Gary - my neighbour is lovely and it's nice having a hot rod guy across the alley. The turbo is internally gated - so no need for additional work.
You should be proud of yourself; this is a very ambitious task you've undertaken, and I think you are doing a great job.
Cheers!
I absolutely love this attitude and mindset in your statement, "This is my own adventure, I just invite you in to watch". I think more people in general, and especially on any social media would really benefit from having this attitude and mindset. If you (people in general) just do what they love and "invite [others] in to watch", then the people will either show up or they won't, no skin off your back because you still did what you loved. BTW, I am enjoying watching your adventure, thanks for inviting me in to see it.
Thanks - I'm just trying to share the journey. Not here to be someone I'm not.
I've designed FileMaker Pro databases for 30+ years and spent countless hours doing similar fix and repair and touchups. They were so annoying at times. I've often thought that I should do something that had a finality and I couldn't go back and update. After watching this video, I've changed my mind. I see that no matter what you do, if you seek perfection it will be agonizing. I've pushed objects about on the layout pixel by pixel and changed colors by 10, etc. And rewriting scripts so the layout wouldn't flash and would open to the exact point on my screen... Trying to open a window in an exact screen placement is quite similar to the work you did, just not as sweaty.
Now I can return to my work in peace knowing that no matter what I do I would end up with frustrations and stress trying to achieve what I want. Thanks.
You have my respect for your craftsmanship.
Thanks Jack - it's not for everyone that's for sure. At times I have to walk away and get some perspective.
Throttle Stop Garage - "We're not concerned with getting anything done"
The work you do it great, and thoroughly enjoy the content
Thanks - appreciated. I know I frustrate viewers with how slow this build is going and I'd like to work on it more, but time is so tight right now.
@@ThrottleStopGarage It's your build, work at your pace as time dictates, I'm just glad I get to enjoy the ride.
Awesome... I follow a bunch of channels over a wide range of things and you are one of my favorites... Its hard to beat the tally ho project 😜
Thanks 👍
A true artist. And the patience of Job.
Thanks.
Very good detail. I'm doing a similar project. Diesel engine so 304 instead of 321. Same diameter and schedule 10S too. But this is for low speed, 4000 RPM and being a V8, space is a premium so going log style. Individual port flanges, plasma cut from bar stock.
Zero root gap too, tacks can be done without purge or sugaring. I only had to cut 17mm sections which I did with a pipe cutter.
Purge root pass, then fill with water to fill/cap. Yes, welding pipe full of water is possible with stainless. Greatly reduces warpage.
These are for twin, light turbochargers for quick spool. All the number crunching shows 10 PSI boost at 1400 RPM and drive pressure ratio under 1.4 maximum. I am playing with Garrett VNTs so there is a lot of tuning possible with the vane position controller (RPM, TPS and MAP). TPS and RPM dictate % load or torque, this infers injection quantity which then does a 3D lookup for required MAP.
I want a clear exhaust gas, no coal rolling but doing this with purely mechanical injection requires turbos with fast response, only VNT will work. Only looking for 235 Hp.
I've never tried welding pipe full of water. I do turn the purge on for tacking - not needed, but not hurting and I've got to pay the argon bill either way. So I'm not bothered by it.
That sure came out looking great. I love the final shape. A 5 cylinder makes for a cool layout.
Thanks 👍
One of the best, I love your approach to building!
Thank you very much!
Fantastic viewing Craig, I love watching your learning journey… apply new techniques, gain experience, take a day off, come back, try new things…. it’s all about those incremental improvements! 👍
Cheers! There was some fun learning in this one for sure.
Most incredible header ever. Amazing work. Thanks for taking us along so we can experience at least 0.1% of the extraordinary effort required. Congratulations. 🎉
Glad you enjoyed it!
this gotta be the most beautiful manifod i have ever seen and man i have seen a lot, congratulatiions on that perfect build
Wow, thank you!
Not just a manifold but a piece of art that I would love to see on my desk... with ceramic coating or titanium build. Wow!
Thanks!
. Maybe there is something to single-cylinder motors after all your trials and tribulations. A work of art - congratulations. A shining symmetrical success.
Thank you very much!
I agree with @jimsiggy great job, and if I may add a tip, when you let off thee pedal to stop your weld swirl the tungsten and let out of the pedal slow and you will get a cleaner less bumpy and pitted tie in, also I would suggest increasing your post flow and not moving the cup from where you stop to help cool the part and your tungsten, if your tungsten turns black when you stop welding you have inadequate post flow and accumulate oxides on the tungsten turning it black.
Thanks - Great tip - I was feathering and figured out the swirl by the time I was done. I know I've seen others do it...it's mostly a matter of keeping focused/relaxed. I ran out of gas after the root and the next tank that I got I'm pretty sure was contaminated. I increased post flow and just couldn't get it to weld nicely. I also don't do this enough to just know that it was a gas problem. I reported it when I swapped out that tank and the next tank was completely different. Welded much better. I was a little gutted as it was too late and I should have taken that second tank back. My welding supplier did move me to the pro price schedule instead of the home welder price (saving me 35%) so that was nice.
Very ambitious! I thought maybe that might be too ambitious but after seeing the final result, that is truly artwork, beautiful and worth all of the time! I have a lot of respect for you getting all you have done accomplished as long as you continue to enjoy it. Thank you for the content, I hope it pays off, I know that makes it even more work!
Thank you very much! It will look great in the end...even though nobody will see it.
Dude, that thing is freaking amazing! Good job... No f that freaking great job!!! I made a crappy log for my project and it's crap. Crappy crap! Your headed is a freaking work of art! Just wow...
Thanks 😊 I sure hope it works as good as it looks.
A true craftsman in all endeavors! Look forward to more fab!
Thanks for taking the time to film and explain caveats you've learned along your journey.
Subscribed 😊
Many thanks!
.....and thanks for allowing us to follow this adventure!!!!
Cheers.
Another great video! Thanks for giving us an opportunity to watch your project.
Thanks for watching!
To you Sir, I take my hat off to you, as a first-time subscriber to your Chanel this was simply the best video I have ever seen, "Why" because just like you, I too am not great at tig welding, but you sir have taken me to a greater level of confidence, so great of you to say, your not so good at this but you showed us how to be patient and to pressure, well-done sir, looking forward to your next video,
TIG welding is a really specific skill that takes time to develop and requires time to keep sharp. If you were welding every day - you'd be great at it and all the dimes would stack and everything would be Instagram worthy...being realistic about what you can achieve doing this infrequently is important to see.
One of the best channels out there. Love your attitude and you do beautiful work to boot.
Thanks 👍
Thats a beautiful piece. I'm so glad you're filming this.
Thanks - happy it's done.
Oh man it turned out amazing! Have once had to stick weld the last section in the middle of collector for the last runner to get it welded. Super editing on the many days and hours for make this video! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Thanks - almost a month of footage (over 100 files) for this episode!
I'm repeating myself but art takes time.
It most certainly does.
Awesome work Craig. I weld for a living and I still enjoy watching videos like these. No matter what I will still learn something new. We always have more to learn, no matter the experience level.
I wanted to ask. Can you share some some info about those adjustable towers you have on the table that you use to hold up the runners? Looks like a cast iron pipe with a bolt in it. I really like the idea was hoping you would share some info on it.
Cheers and keep up the great work.
Thanks. Those are my clamps for the table. I just bought some welding clamps, cut the fixed end off, and welded on a bolt. It was a lot cheaper than getting the real ones. I cover these in the welding table fixtures video.
Wow. This is really beautiful work. The looks of this manifold make a great argument for I5 engines!
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the invite.
Awesome uploads dude.
Thanks.
It's your car and your project. Dont listen to everyone who thinks they know everything on the internet!!
Thanks - much appreciated.
That header setup looks incredible😊
Thanks!
Intro ads still rolling but already hit the Like Button 👍
Here too👍👍👍
Don't worry - someone will dislike it almost as soon as I post it. LOL.
40C in the garage... damn... time for a mini split or something to keep it down (or up during the winter) to something that is reasonable. great work we all enjoy the journey.
We were under that heat dome for a week...Arizona can keep their weather! It's either +30 or -30 ºC in this part of the country. I broke out the 36" barrel fan for when I'm not welding.
Well, that long cup did the trick :-) I think that it looks awesome. You are going to enjoy that manifold for years to come. Big thumbs up !
I had bought a swivel head torch and never needed to use it. Those goofy long cups came in very handy. None of it was easy! I sure hope it will last.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I think that you can be real proud at the result. Especially after all that hard work and tedious prepping :-)
A little tip is to weld every joint directly. Like a clock. Say I start at 6 and stop at 9. After that start at 3 weld to 12. The continue to 9 to 12 and last but not least weld 6 to 3. Then you won't get the problems with the pipes to pull at any direction.
Great tip.
Enjoyed that good looking piece. Busy with a few projects for me as well.
Thanks - glad to hear you're getting a few projects done.
Looks amazing!
About to start welding up some V-blocks so I can compensate for the lack of a lathe to make threaded standoff spacers for mounting 98 Mercedes CL seats in a 64 Riviera. Been using the notebook idea for building stuff and its worked out great being able to reference back to what worked when it comes to making the other side.
Excellent!
Just a tip, if you are doing tight radius tube/pipe polishing with this type of polisher look for scalloped sanding belts.
Will do!
Great Video! I wish I found this months ago. Thanks for sharing your process, Im building my first Stainless manifold and it has been quite the learning process and kick in the a$$ haha. I have learned the art of patience on this one.
Glad it was helpful!
That turned out very nice. Loved the build, can't wait for the next one👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Just realised in the second time of watching I never thanked you for the little mention 🙂! You did a great job. I'm going to be undertaking my first manifold in the next few days and will be uploading the results for the world to see on my channel. Won't be half as comprehensive, I'm a terrible RUclipsr 😂
Always interested to see how it works out. LOL - we all do what we can. The old GoPro goes flying every now and again when I forget where it is.
Love your work mate. Using your cf intake vids to build my intake 🤫 mates doing the double walled lower cnc flange as we speak and Im currently on the chamber plug. Following your methods, all hunky dory so far 👍👍 Appreciate the guidance
That's awesome - happy that it's all working as planned.
Be proud its not easy . Give you a tip tack it in 12 o'clock 6 o'clock 9 o'clock and keep rotating in that sequence tacking until its tacked all threw then run with it your 100 % correct trial and error 👍
Cheers - that's a good simple trick.
It’s a masterpiece man !!! it’s excellent 👍👍👍good job 😎wow!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great videos man! U are a lot like my self. I've got one tip for you. I started using a sheet of aluminum on my welding bench and its made a huge difference when it comes to not getting grounding arcs. I didn't notice any in the video, but its bound to happen with a steel table. Keep up the great work.
Thanks - great tip. The need for a decent ground when you're welding on a table with mill scale can't be under looked. I've had the arc problem in the past.
they look amazing congrats on your achievements and thanks for sharing it nice job as always
Thank you! Cheers!
an amazing piece of fabrication. that is a piece of art.
Thanks!
Yeah, don’t be too rude about you. You have the professionalist (? I’m not a native engl speaker) intention, you know what good quality is. So it’s useful to learn some by you. And you have a funny manner to tell things 😁 plus I know that at the end it will look good anyway, as also working good. Thank you, you do great ⭐️
Cheers - your English is fine!
I want to see a video about that height adjustable welding table. 😍😍
Cool - I'll see what I can put together over the winter. A little too hot right now.
Very nice Throttle! Cheers, Doug
Thank you! Cheers!
Just say that polishing is satisfying 😂😂
It sure can be.
I am very impressed ! That would have taken me a month. Good job!
Thanks!
You should be proud of that. Looks great!
Thanks
i like your centering jig parts! i made some that are a bit different in shape, but perform very similarly.
Cool, thanks!
Good job looks great, I'd be proud of that outcome 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
With any turbo manifold I assume it's going to warp after a few thermal cycles. After you break in the engine and you've gotten a few thermal cycles in the thing you probably want to resurface that flange again.
Only if it leaks - fingers crossed!
epic effort - great result - hats off !!
Thanks a lot!
Great video hopefully my next project is finished to your very high standards
You can do it!
Looking good. Well done mate.
Thank you! Cheers!
Absolutely beautiful job!
Thanks - much appreciated.
Appreciate *all* the tips !
Any idea what your current settings were ?
I'm mid fabrication of a similar manifold for a Lancia twin cam - just at the 'spotting' stage having gotvit into shape with equal length pipes - more luck than judgement !
I found a lathe invaluable for this - not sure if your plumbing pipes are the same on your side of the pond, but here in the UK, 40mm solvent weld waste pipe is a really goof fit into the pipes and makes an ideal 'joiner' to get everything into shape.
I solvent welded a 'coupler' to the straight plastic spacers and trued them up on the lathe to keep everything square - then cut the stainless pipe to thr required length, again using the lathe to keep everything square.
Downside with a lathe - especially working in a small garage workshop is that you don't grind inside anymore - you get a bit paranoid about grinding dust !
Amyway - should be finishingcrhe spoting up next week - then it's the main welding - after quite a big of practice to get my welding a bit better !!
I wish I had the space for a lathe! Amperage was 1 A per thou minus 10 %...around 100 A for this size pipe. I've got a foot pedal control, so I never know where I was welding exactly.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Thanks for the reply !
If you ever get the chance to squeeze one in - a lathe is a must - but then you start to hanker after a mill, then maybe a tool and cutter grinder, then perhaps a ... .. ..
Machine tools have a habit of breeding !
@@mrb.5610 Oh, I know...I have managed to stay out of trouble so far, but I also grew up in a fully equipped machine shop. In some ways, knowing what you could do is "worse". LOL.
what a work of art
Thank you.
I think you are awesome. Can't say it enough, your videos are great.
I appreciate that!
You make it look easy! LOL! Gonna start TIG welding some stuff. Should know what I’m doing by 2036 or so.
It's harder than it looks! Hats off to the pros that really make it look easy.
Awesome job really looks great and very inspirational work.
Thank you! Cheers!
This is awsome! I also wanna build a big turbo volvo engine and I wish I had the tools to build a manifold 😭
You can do it!
Awesome as always. Great work!!!
Thanks
Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
I learned this from another guy but thoriated tungsten, you can bend the end of the tungsten to get into those hard to reach places where you're trying to put a straight tungsten in an area that it just doesn't fit so good, just a tech tip you can try and not try it up to you
I saw someone on another channel doing this not that long ago. I never knew!
This is difficult like that. The end has to be undone in way to have flexibility. But this is insane
You bet - thanks.
watching this in 2022 and my original comment still stands.
you should of outsourced the facing of the exhaust to head mating,
getting those two right is make or brake.
Id of welded on tabs that were threaded to hold the exhaust manifold to the facing machine.
That way you can face it at a whim if need be.
those two mating surfaces are the most crucial.
most heat, most pressure in one spot throughout the whole car.
important.
It's not installed yet...while it didn't move much, I'll have it surfaced when I'm ready to bolt the engine together. I've still got to add the EGT bungs at some point.
Folding like a noodle is no problem, it's the unfolding that concerns me
Especially under the dash...every time. "How did I get myself in this position? Will I have to call my wife to get me out?"
Great job! A bit cathartic with the final welding I'm sure
Yes it was!
The flat bar that you use to weld the flange of the headers, is aluminum or metal? How tick is the plate? Very amazing work that you do, you'r a craftsman.
It's aluminum and 1 inch thick. Thanks for watching.
Spectacular sanding tool. Do you have a link from which you can buy it? thank you
I'll release the video in a few weeks. I got it from Amazon - needs mods to work.
www.amazon.ca/Mophorn-Professional-Burnishing-Finishing-Stainless/dp/B07J6G4W25/ref=asc_df_B07J6G4W25/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335074856084&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9675272520138543160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001300&hvtargid=pla-600256401543&psc=1
On the position try tig welding chrome molly in a 25.2 or any cert chassis lol I had to hang off my car lift upside down a bunch of times 🙃
No thanks! Every time I see a nicely welded chassis, I'm blown away by the skill. Only those who have attempted can understand the extreme skill involved.
Congrats
Nicely done
Thanks.
It would be agood idea to checkout welders that do this for a living and checkout there tube turning jig clamps like ball joint swivels rhat fit inside tubing and out side .👍
My offsets were just about zero on the manifold - two runners had a little. They're fully welded.
It looks great but do u think that just fusion will hold up..a turbo builds a lot of pressure which could blow those welds?and the fact that your grinding them down..I don't know if I agree
Filler wire (347) was used and non of the joints were ground in the end. I have never built a turbo header before, but I'm confident this will be fine. If it's not - I'll do it again.
use a home fan too cool them down in between runs
youl cool it ten times faster and it won’t contaminate the metal like compressed air does
Good point. My air is very clean and dry but that's not true for everyone.
Would you be able to actively cool the pipes (gently, with a box fan a meter or two away or something) to speed up the process? Or would that wreak havocs with the welds?
I was making the mistake of blowing compressed air on the parts to cool as I welded. They shrink like crazy. My sense of things is you just have to accept that welding a runner may take an hour or so to complete.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I said *gently*, though. Maybe there's a happy medium between nothing and blowing compressed air?
@@anidiotinaracingcar Probably - but I've got time!
looks fabulous
Thanks!
Beautiful
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi, I got a question unrelated to this video but figured there's a better chance you see this on a fresh one.
So, when you were making your panels you sprayed primer directly on the mould that would then transfer on a finished part. Is it regular primer or something designed for this purpose? Any advantages other than ease and disadvantages over priming a part after releasing? I'm making a cf bootlid and want it painted body colour but only from the outside and visible cf weave on the inside so this seems like a perfect technique not requiring any masking.
Looking for any info and tips so anyone with experience in this please chime in.
@@ccob122 you mean peelply texture on the surface that is not facing the mould? Or will weave pattern be visible throuhg primer? Either way, trunk lid will be 3 parts: outer skin, inner skin and a middle that has locking mechanism attached. So both inner and outer skin will be facing mould surface on the visible side. And I assume if there is imprint through the primer it can be wetsanded or just laid thick enough to avoid this?
It's a special vinyl ester primer meant for this purpose. The mold surface is very smooth so having the primer also come out perfectly is an added bonus and less work. The problem you will have is that the mesh imprints a texture on the backside of the panel. You may want to experiment with options to reduce the print through on your parts.
Not the peel ply - the infusion mesh leaves an indent. It's not visible on the front side of the part but is on the back. So not that sort of print through. It's just not completely smooth on the backside. Sounds like it won't be a problem with the mold you're describing. Good luck.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Thank you. Now I just need to find where to source it. Locally all I could find was epoxy primer, would that work?
@@alexdoescars Nope. Sorry epoxy primer isn't formulated for in mold application. Look for Duratec Vinyl Ester Primer 1799-006.
For every weld I allow 2mm for shrinking with that wall thickness
Great tip - wish I knew this before I welded up the manifold!
Awsome work 👌🤘
Thanks ✌️
Looks good! I'm curious for everything to do the job, start to finish, how many hours did this take? To make the back purge block, making the jig, everything, how many hours?
From start to finish - around 40 hours. Not including the time to print the header legos.
Im a bit late to the party. But i make alot of pipe manifolds and the biggest enemy is shrinkage. I always make the primaries 3-4mm Long than needed to account for the shrinkage.
I wish I knew this when I was welding it up. I figures it out the hard way...hopefully people read the comments!
@@ThrottleStopGarage I've not read through the comments ha! I stumbled across your Carbon Intake Manifold for research purposes and found this video on the manifold.
Looking good
Thanks 👍
If you want to stop craters in the ends of weld, run your tungsten up the side of the joint.
Thanks Mike - that's a good tip.
@@ThrottleStopGarage It's especially useful with TIG and MIg as that crater is often a hole through the end of the weld. And your comment about being comfortable is spot on.
21:30 "just helped a little bit with the penetration, cause i could jab it right in there"
LOL
No issues with it shrinking welding each runner separately and not lining up?
Well, some issues that I was able to fix. Nothing serious.
Fantastic video. I'm a novice when it comes to welding. I have to ask though, where did you get the head-side manifold flange from? I plan to fab a manifold for my 5-cylinder this spring and that flange is perfect.
Thanks Matthias, As noted on IG - I designed the flange and had it machined.
That thing is gorgeous. I'd hang it on my wall!
Thanks - can't wait to get the car done so I can see how it worked.
wild DYI headers video
Thanks
This is a great video! Looking to do the same. Where did you source the SS parts?
Thanks - Ace Race Parts was the source for the 321 stainless parts.
Well done! It doesn't matter what anyone else thinks it is all for you. Just curious, how are you going to gasket that?
You bet. Standard Volvo Turbo Exhaust gaskets are a multi layer steel and composite gasket. The v-band does not need a gasket.
Masterpiece!
Thanks!
where in Canada did you source the elbows and tees??
There isn't a Canadian source. Ace Race Parts in the USA has them.
Beautiful. Entertaining and informative as always. I love the pride and time you take in your hobby work. This may be a question for later, but have you decided on your EFI computer? Will you continue with the DIY theme and get a DIY ECU? i.e. Megasquirt, Speeduino, or RusEFI Proteus?
Thanks and good question Paul. Given that I am running a drive by wire throttle body, I can't run MS or others - MAXX ECU is going to get the ECU business. While I've EFI swapped cars, I've never wired one from the ground up. I'm excited for that part of the project.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Just FYI RusEFI Proteus supports up to twin eTBs. Already demo-ed on a BMW V12 with two by-wire TBs. Either way looking forward to you getting there!
Some beautiful fabrication work right there, I think I need to move to Canada and become one of those annoying neighbours who keeps popping round 😂
What are your plans with the wastegate?
Thanks Gary - my neighbour is lovely and it's nice having a hot rod guy across the alley. The turbo is internally gated - so no need for additional work.