Hey Justin love your videos you are are the only reason I started to get into Tig welding you are a inspiration man. Just got a question - What is the difference between a normal tungsten compared to the Lazer tungsten you where using also used it on your alloy video?
@@shaunhills3902 I appreciate it! There is no such thing as "normal" tungsten. There is only the tungsten that works best for what you do. In my experience, LaYZr is the most indestructible tungsten that literally welds every single metal I throw under it. It just lasts for ever and its my favorite until something proves itself superior.
Justin I can't thank you enough brother. I haven't been on the scene in 16yrs. Started again 2 days ago and I'm already shinin. Without you, Jody, and bob idk wtf I'd do for morale, motivation. Thank you for everything!
Hi Justin, great video and thanks for the info. I like those aluminum blocks you use for positioning with the notches cut in them. Do you make them and if not where could I get some?
I have one other tip I also use tip 4 and use a piece of rod ( sometimes a bolt sticks) as a heat sink but also I do not drill a hole until after welding the bung on. Once the bung has been welded in place, I centre punch, use a slight undersized drill to Pierce the pipe, then use a correct taper tap to tap out the hole. You get the benefit of not blowing out the hole and once the thread has been cut into the pipe a more uniform job with extra threads...try it out!
I’m 65 years old. Been MiG welding as well as mma for years. Just learning TIG. I love it but it’s tricky since my home made welding rig is scratch start. I enjoy it though
I can tell you as a retired sanitary process welder these tips are a good place to success in stainless welding. I cannot emphasize enough back purging the weld zone. Thanks for the quality video of the weld puddle.
Regardless of how skilled this gentleman is at welding, he's got a solid announcer's voice and should be doing voiceovers for a living. He's so good, he could be announcing major sporting events Think about it. Also, great video!
I love using the Vibrant O2 bungs with the saddle that sits on the tube. It also spaces the weld farther away from the threads to minimize thermal distortion.
Awesome to see some fab. I closed my performance shop some years back and sold off my tooling. Past couple years I really started missing TIG welding more than anything. Luckily, starting and growing my youtube channel has allowed me to gain some sponsors and get back into it. I've watched your channel for a while, to keep me in it...lol. Going to start a fab series on my side as well...more people need to TIG...it's fulfilling when you get good. One thing I never mastered though, was cup walking and it's something I'm going to figure out...always found it mega tough though.
Proper weld for thick to thin always keep your heat on the thick wash the weld quick to the thin the way you think is same as me everytime I think you may say somethin diff you exactly what I would this channel is awesome very informational and to much info just enough thank you
Man I could of used this information at work today, had to reweld an egt bung back in that broke off. I cooked it 😫! I’ve only been tig welding for 4 days, just got a machine last week. That’s for the tip!
Great tips. Welding on a tight diameter is always a bit more challenging and stainless with the purge adds to the effort. The last header I made header 15 years ago used /16 rod". I now have turbo header and exhaust to make in 304. On your advice, I picked up a 10 lb of .045" from my LWS which I should be able to pass on to my boys.
Nice piece of craftsmanship ! Never welded bungs but I did other stuff with thread in it, always put bolts in it, you risk deforming the thread by heat. Have seen enough examples of people trying to weld a nut onto something and afterwards it didn't work anymore, quite funny 🤣 That was with mig welding by the way.
for number 7 ive heard people say you should also keep your filler under the gas ive never done tig so i cant say but great tips so far and hopefully i can implement them next semister when i lean tig
Yes, always purge. Who makes those purge plugs your using in the ends? Side note the bolt works great but I wouldn't screw in in more than 3 or 4 threads, in can shrink and you will ruin the threads when removed.Thanks
I always use a brass bolt in the bung and I have a piece of 1/6 inch thick by 2 in square piece of copper that I form to fit the tubing OD with body panel hammer. When I place the copper inside of the tube as a backer and clamp the bolt and backer with vice grips it conforms perfectly to the ID. Results = Zero blowouts. I've even used 1-1/2" small diameter pipe and some old chisels to wedge the copper into place. I do the same when making custom hinges I use a brass pin before welding and on accessible body panels I use 1/16 inch by one inch wide by 12 in long strips behind the metal to keep heat warping down.
Have you ever tried *SolarFlux* Type B for backing up your stainless work? I used it on a SS exhaust and it saved me quite a lot of gas because I didn't have to purge the mufflers. I bought a 4-oz bag for $20 on eBay. You mix the amount you need with methanol and paint it on the back side and edges of the joint. It dries quickly and you can weld right away. It will melt and move out of the way if you weld over it, and the residue is sorta like glass. Not good for food tubing but AOK for exhaust pipes.
I’m in a living hell right now in life and I can barely keep it together. These videos help me focus on something useful and interesting and technical which disengages me from everything else for a while. Also the quality of your videos and your tips is absolutely top notch and much appreciated!
I am about to Tig weld a bung on my bike exhaust and was wondering if it’s really necessary to add filler material. Come to think about, it does not need to be a very strong weld, all it needs is to be air tight. Thanks for your input.
I had the o2 bung fall out on my POS Geo Metro. Rather than have some one beautully weld it back in like you, I just safety wired it with a figure 8 pattern. Nice video
Looks great Man! We cope out a coupling, put four tacks, then quarter weld from tack to tack. #5,or #6 cup. Walk it around. I would like to try the Pyrex cups!
Great video thanks. Wish I could weld like you! I always clean the bung in a cup of solvent with a small brush to make sure I get any oil out of the threads.
thats art man! i would put that piece on my bedroom wall! your torch and your torchcable looks so light! im a WIG welder for over 18years and welding is a art for me and your videos inspire me
Could have used this vid last year. Took me three tries! Cutting the botched attempt(messed up my measurements and had the angle off and it was pointed straight at the engine and couldn't install the sensor) out made almost as much a mess as anything else. It also appears that some of them are made of really junky metal that just wasn't cooperating. The final result was ugly(not to mention the patched hole from the bad location), but it worked.
wish i knew these tricks when i first started at my company 2 years ago, fresh out of college lol. pretty much learned everything you showed here as i went along tho they dont allow us to purge unfortunately. just means i got better at heat management to not burn the stainless haha. luckily they let me switch the whole tig dept over from the crappy pink cups to the 12 furick setup so quality and ease of welding has shot up since.
You’re kidding about not purging right? Are you not working with stainless steel?? How do you get away with tig welding a one sided stainless steel joint that cannot be accessed from the back side, in order to back gouge/grind, since there is no purging taking place??? Sugaring is not an issue with your QC department and most of all your customer? One-sided, stainless steel complete joint penetration, with no access to the backside is ideal for purging when tig welding.... Assuming you are using the GTAW process that is... “Sugaring” at the “Process” side of a stainless steel fabrication is a MAJOR NO NO at my facility..... I’m all for back grinding the root whenever accessible.... This is common at our facility, but there’s always those situations where you cannot access both sides of the joint, hence the purge operation.... You should take the initiative and start purging when applicable..... Just my two cents....
@@jamier6742 while yes i agree that purging everything would be ideal and it bothers me that we don't, the customers we have typically dont worry about it. We make various oem replacement parts for pretty much every semi truck mfr. (Mostly exhausts) and none of the customers request that we purge the components. They know we dont and pay us accordingly to bring the unit price down. We only purge if the customer requests that we do so.
I need to install one for my AFR gauge but my intake manifold has already an O2 sensor for the ECM. Shall I replace it with the one for the AFR ? Or shall I drill an extra hole ?? Thanks
This is so timely... I'm trying to weld a drain plug bung into my Transmission pan and it is just like an O2 bung. The problems abound immediately. I'm not sure if there is a coating on the pan because I'm getting a brown haze. Plus I ended up with a small hole quickly when I was just getting started. This little job is more trying than most of my welding projects. I hate to mention this is the second attempt because the first one is dripping under my car. I ordered another pan and another bung to try again in a different position with hopefully better results.
Any metal that is in contact with oil will have problems welding if you don't thoroughly clean the metal and then take a torch heat it up to sweat out the absorbed oil in the pores of the metal
one thing you didn't mention... if you're using a stainless bung, dont use a mild steel (dissimilar metals) bung plug when welding.....they can fuse together and scrap your whole piece. ....ask me how i know.... good vid!
Another thing to note as well is the quality of material that the bung is made of. I use the innovate brand bungs which are like the second style you showed. Those weld like absolute garbage as I believe they are made from 412L. It's almost as if you're welding to Swiss cheese.
@@TheFabricatorSeries exactly, they suck so bad but my employer will only buy those because they are cheap. I do a lot of 304L stainless round tubing, 0.65 wall, beautiful parts and welds. Then we have to put those nasty bungs in there.... Pisses me off so bad lol 😁
@@TheMrREVOlutionary If (s)he is like most employers, they will prefer to save a couple of dollars on the part and end up costing themselves several times that on time and other costs getting the part to work, than spend a little more initially and save everywhere else and actually net more on the job - bonus for them is the time that would have been wasted can then be used elsewhere to make them money.
@@gordowg1wg145 yep that's right. Sad part is it's a family business I've been part of for 10 years now. We end up shooting ourselves in the foot doing stuff like that. Oh well, what can ya do?
Very informative video. I do lots of gland entries on cylindrical terminal boxes, and these tips help a great deal. I generally fit them up using flat bar clamped to the inside of the tube, then tack up and take the cup for a walk if the gland is big enough.
Dumb question: if the bolt seals the bung, and the plugs seal the ends, and gas is flowing into the tube, does that mean that it's leaking or purging out of the seam between the bung and the pipe? My concern would be that as the gap was sealed off, the pressure from the purging gas would blow out the molten metal at the very end. Maybe the surface tension is enough to keep it all locked in.
i weld at 90 amps when welding stuff like that and aim the arc slightly towards the thicker piece with the threads in this case. i personally weld nuts to square tubing fairly often in my work and it is a similar thing when welding this thing. but what i mostly weld is thin walled stainless steel tubing with tig.
I've done literally thousands of stainless fittings to stainless tube, the requirements being for pressurized hydrogen and helium gas. If you want something to center a fitting to the hole in the stainless tube, machine a plug to fit the bung for alignment. NEVER, EVER use a threaded bolt as a centering device. It only takes one to freeze up into the fitting to destroy both the bung and the pipe assembly it's going on to. Also, I usually use the bung as the gas vent to allow the inert gas to exit the assembly. This guarantees inert gas right at the inside of the weld where it needs to be.
I'm not that good at welding only used mig before but probably could make the best looking welds than anyone else in the shop. New guy was bragging about his welding skills i needed an o2 bung welded in so i got him to do it holesaw and drop it in and weld. He didn't even get it sealed all the way had to grind a lot and weld it back. Picked on him for the rest time i worked there lol
First rule of welding, equalize the mass. Adding a bolt to the bung (ok for tacking into position) will add mass to the thicker part, increasing the energy necessary for thicker part to heat up, increasing the the chance to blow through. Am I wrong?
What I want to know is, why do they even bother making TiG welders without a pedal? I mean sure, you can scratch start and all, but the quality, reliability and looks of a good weld really depend on a smooth start and finish as well as adjustment of heat during the welding process. I do know the answer....money. Still, TiG without a variable trigger is kinda useless. Great video!
what's the rationale of using 308 filler rod and (assuming) something like 304 base material? wouldn't 316 perform better as both the exhaust or manifold and filler material? regardless of that though, fantastic work, a lot of broscience in the field of welding especially coming from mechanics rather than welders
thanks for the tipps!!! wolfram electrode is i think? 2cm out from the gas nozzle? how much liter/minute would You recommend? sorry for my scool english, thanks!!!!!!!
Great info.. can you do a video on making a jig for bent tubes, forming an OEM style exhaust port spigot for harleys, best wire grade and thickness to make the best welds on 304 tubing, welding a stepped tube i.e. 1.75" to 1.875" basically everything that's required to make a set of 2-1 exhaust system for harley
Great video... forgot to mention take the bolt out right away before it cools or it may be stuck in there for ever.. "count the dabs" good tip thanks..
Really nice video and great looking weld. Trying to do that underneath a car is tough though and hard to get all the way around. Sometimes you don't have the option of laying it on your work table.
Enjoy your videos and can tell you have great free - hand skills but kinda lost me on counting dabs. But definitely is working wth your style and end product looked great.
Excellent video as I'm getting ready to TIG my turbo hotside. I've been Tig welding aluminum for twonyears now, steel/stainless are harder for me to grasp for some reason. You mentioned using a .045" filler rod. What size tungsten would you pair with that? Does this .045" filler rod tip apply to welding the v-band flanges as well?
For me it depends on amperage I'm going to use. 3/32'' is common as all around tungsten... If You're picky like me try to find .080''. I started to use it on thin stainless. 3/32'' felt too much and 1/16'' didn't stand so many restarts.
Back purging keeps the oxygen away from the back side of the weld and eliminate's the stainless from "sugering" And you back purge with argon, not with air.
Sensei Justin, I have a similar situation: angled solid 1" BungKing seat bungs on a 10 gauge mild steel solo seat pan. My 1/16 tungsten tips are burning up and the machine only lets you go to 90 amps before giving a warning. My welds look like blobs. Should i go to 3/16 tungsten , small wire (like double wound mig wire) or ? and say, 70-80 amps like you are doing here? You are right the parts are getting glowing hot. Nothing is flowing except the money leaving my wallet. :-0
that's fine if you can roll the pipe around like that on a bench have put tons of threadlets on pipe but usually after the pipe is all up and then then the engineers ask for probes and drains always in position and usually on a ladder
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Hey Justin love your videos you are are the only reason I started to get into Tig welding you are a inspiration man. Just got a question - What is the difference between a normal tungsten compared to the Lazer tungsten you where using also used it on your alloy video?
@@shaunhills3902 I appreciate it!
There is no such thing as "normal" tungsten. There is only the tungsten that works best for what you do. In my experience, LaYZr is the most indestructible tungsten that literally welds every single metal I throw under it. It just lasts for ever and its my favorite until something proves itself superior.
Justin I can't thank you enough brother. I haven't been on the scene in 16yrs. Started again 2 days ago and I'm already shinin. Without you, Jody, and bob idk wtf I'd do for morale, motivation. Thank you for everything!
@@CallofDoobie585 Keep at it 👊😎
Hi Justin, great video and thanks for the info. I like those aluminum blocks you use for positioning with the notches cut in them. Do you make them and if not where could I get some?
I have one other tip I also use tip 4 and use a piece of rod ( sometimes a bolt sticks) as a heat sink but also I do not drill a hole until after welding the bung on.
Once the bung has been welded in place, I centre punch, use a slight undersized drill to Pierce the pipe, then use a correct taper tap to tap out the hole.
You get the benefit of not blowing out the hole and once the thread has been cut into the pipe a more uniform job with extra threads...try it out!
Like this idea
I’m 65 years old. Been MiG welding as well as mma for years. Just learning TIG. I love it but it’s tricky since my home made welding rig is scratch start. I enjoy it though
I can tell you as a retired sanitary process welder these tips are a good place to success in stainless welding. I cannot emphasize enough back purging the weld zone. Thanks for the quality video of the weld puddle.
Regardless of how skilled this gentleman is at welding, he's got a solid announcer's voice and should be doing voiceovers for a living. He's so good, he could be announcing major sporting events
Think about it. Also, great video!
He does have a very soothing voice.
He’s also VERY well spoken.
if Justin ever wants to adopt me as a noob apprentice, that would be great
I love using the Vibrant O2 bungs with the saddle that sits on the tube. It also spaces the weld farther away from the threads to minimize thermal distortion.
These are the ones I use. Love em and make it very easy to not screw up.
7:48 seeing a filled inside is kinda so satisfying. Ive never even touched a TIG but Id always appreciate good fabrication
Filled what inside?
I dont even have a tig welder but this was enjoyable 😂
get 1 and practice.
@@anikidwolfy Have a mig, for the use it gets that'll do for now
Tig is easy once you learn it.
pises nut ela asazh
@@ebogar42 very easy. Same with miging aluminum.
Nice work I'm a retired pipefitter welder and have done a lot of that type of welding. Looks really nice.
Totally on point!! I weld stainless almost every day and have been using these techniques for at least 10 years.
Cheers!!😎😎
Hi Daniel, can you talk more on the post flow? And why you need to keep the cup there until it cools down?
Dude, your avatar is awesome! I’ve been welding stainless for a least ten days straight, I’m trying to get pulsing figured out.
Awesome to see some fab. I closed my performance shop some years back and sold off my tooling. Past couple years I really started missing TIG welding more than anything. Luckily, starting and growing my youtube channel has allowed me to gain some sponsors and get back into it. I've watched your channel for a while, to keep me in it...lol. Going to start a fab series on my side as well...more people need to TIG...it's fulfilling when you get good. One thing I never mastered though, was cup walking and it's something I'm going to figure out...always found it mega tough though.
Proper weld for thick to thin always keep your heat on the thick wash the weld quick to the thin the way you think is same as me everytime I think you may say somethin diff you exactly what I would this channel is awesome very informational and to much info just enough thank you
Man I could of used this information at work today, had to reweld an egt bung back in that broke off. I cooked it 😫! I’ve only been tig welding for 4 days, just got a machine last week. That’s for the tip!
Great tips. Welding on a tight diameter is always a bit more challenging and stainless with the purge adds to the effort. The last header I made header 15 years ago used /16 rod". I now have turbo header and exhaust to make in 304. On your advice, I picked up a 10 lb of .045" from my LWS which I should be able to pass on to my boys.
Nice piece of craftsmanship !
Never welded bungs but I did other stuff with thread in it, always put bolts in it, you risk deforming the thread by heat.
Have seen enough examples of people trying to weld a nut onto something and afterwards it didn't work anymore, quite funny 🤣
That was with mig welding by the way.
for number 7 ive heard people say you should also keep your filler under the gas ive never done tig so i cant say but great tips so far and hopefully i can implement them next semister when i lean tig
Yes, always purge. Who makes those purge plugs your using in the ends? Side note the bolt works great but I wouldn't screw in in more than 3 or 4 threads, in can shrink and you will ruin the threads when removed.Thanks
Make sure to count the number of dabs on your bung. Reposition and start over. Ron Jeremy welding class.
I always use a brass bolt in the bung and I have a piece of 1/6 inch thick by 2 in square piece of copper that I form to fit the tubing OD with body panel hammer. When I place the copper inside of the tube as a backer and clamp the bolt and backer with vice grips it conforms perfectly to the ID. Results = Zero blowouts. I've even used 1-1/2" small diameter pipe and some old chisels to wedge the copper into place.
I do the same when making custom hinges I use a brass pin before welding and on accessible body panels I use 1/16 inch by one inch wide by 12 in long strips behind the metal to keep heat warping down.
Have you ever tried *SolarFlux* Type B for backing up your stainless work? I used it on a SS exhaust and it saved me quite a lot of gas because I didn't have to purge the mufflers. I bought a 4-oz bag for $20 on eBay. You mix the amount you need with methanol and paint it on the back side and edges of the joint. It dries quickly and you can weld right away. It will melt and move out of the way if you weld over it, and the residue is sorta like glass. Not good for food tubing but AOK for exhaust pipes.
I have two vids about it
I’m in a living hell right now in life and I can barely keep it together. These videos help me focus on something useful and interesting and technical which disengages me from everything else for a while. Also the quality of your videos and your tips is absolutely top notch and much appreciated!
I am about to Tig weld a bung on my bike exhaust and was wondering if it’s really necessary to add filler material. Come to think about, it does not need to be a very strong weld, all it needs is to be air tight. Thanks for your input.
Do you have a video for beginners who want to purchase a welding setup and which setup is the most advantageous? Love your videos!
I had the o2 bung fall out on my POS Geo Metro. Rather than have some one beautully weld it back in like you, I just safety wired it with a figure 8 pattern. Nice video
Justin,
Thanks for your 11 TIPS. As always, Great Content, presented in an understandable & direct, concise manner.
Thanks again.
Rick
Looks great Man! We cope out a coupling, put four tacks, then quarter weld from tack to tack. #5,or #6 cup. Walk it around. I would like to try the Pyrex cups!
Great video thanks. Wish I could weld like you! I always clean the bung in a cup of solvent with a small brush to make sure I get any oil out of the threads.
As always, fantastic instructional video complete with all the pitfalls associated with the process.
thats art man! i would put that piece on my bedroom wall! your torch and your torchcable looks so light! im a WIG welder for over 18years and welding is a art for me and your videos inspire me
I've been welding for about 27yrs man and I've never done WIG welding. What is it?😂
@@dieseldabz7104 sorry WIG is German term for TIC. Wolfram Inert Gas
Thank you for this video. Due to welding heat don't it bend after it?
Could have used this vid last year. Took me three tries! Cutting the botched attempt(messed up my measurements and had the angle off and it was pointed straight at the engine and couldn't install the sensor) out made almost as much a mess as anything else. It also appears that some of them are made of really junky metal that just wasn't cooperating. The final result was ugly(not to mention the patched hole from the bad location), but it worked.
wish i knew these tricks when i first started at my company 2 years ago, fresh out of college lol. pretty much learned everything you showed here as i went along tho they dont allow us to purge unfortunately. just means i got better at heat management to not burn the stainless haha. luckily they let me switch the whole tig dept over from the crappy pink cups to the 12 furick setup so quality and ease of welding has shot up since.
You’re kidding about not purging right?
Are you not working with stainless steel??
How do you get away with tig welding a one sided stainless steel joint that cannot be accessed from the back side, in order to back gouge/grind, since there is no purging taking place???
Sugaring is not an issue with your QC department and most of all your customer?
One-sided, stainless steel complete joint penetration, with no access to the backside is ideal for purging when tig welding....
Assuming you are using the GTAW process that is...
“Sugaring” at the “Process” side of a stainless steel fabrication is a MAJOR NO NO at my facility.....
I’m all for back grinding the root whenever accessible....
This is common at our facility, but there’s always those situations where you cannot access both sides of the joint, hence the purge operation....
You should take the initiative and start purging when applicable.....
Just my two cents....
@@jamier6742 while yes i agree that purging everything would be ideal and it bothers me that we don't, the customers we have typically dont worry about it. We make various oem replacement parts for pretty much every semi truck mfr. (Mostly exhausts) and none of the customers request that we purge the components. They know we dont and pay us accordingly to bring the unit price down. We only purge if the customer requests that we do so.
If you don't weld but love watching welding videos!
Great tips, these things can seem so simple to us but can make all the difference in the world to those who are just getting started. 👍👍
I need to install one for my AFR gauge but my intake manifold has already an O2 sensor for the ECM. Shall I replace it with the one for the AFR ? Or shall I drill an extra hole ?? Thanks
This is so timely... I'm trying to weld a drain plug bung into my Transmission pan and it is just like an O2 bung. The problems abound immediately. I'm not sure if there is a coating on the pan because I'm getting a brown haze. Plus I ended up with a small hole quickly when I was just getting started. This little job is more trying than most of my welding projects. I hate to mention this is the second attempt because the first one is dripping under my car. I ordered another pan and another bung to try again in a different position with hopefully better results.
Any metal that is in contact with oil will have problems welding if you don't thoroughly clean the metal and then take a torch heat it up to sweat out the absorbed oil in the pores of the metal
This really came into my feeds at the perfect time will be doing this Saturday
one thing you didn't mention... if you're using a stainless bung, dont use a mild steel (dissimilar metals) bung plug when welding.....they can fuse together and scrap your whole piece. ....ask me how i know.... good vid!
I used a steel bolt in a stainless bung and it was just fine. I've never had a bung fuse to a bolt during or after welding.
Another thing to note as well is the quality of material that the bung is made of. I use the innovate brand bungs which are like the second style you showed. Those weld like absolute garbage as I believe they are made from 412L. It's almost as if you're welding to Swiss cheese.
I've welded those before. Its undercut city and theres nothing you can do about it except hope to hell it holds haha
@@TheFabricatorSeries exactly, they suck so bad but my employer will only buy those because they are cheap. I do a lot of 304L stainless round tubing, 0.65 wall, beautiful parts and welds. Then we have to put those nasty bungs in there.... Pisses me off so bad lol 😁
@@TheMrREVOlutionary If (s)he is like most employers, they will prefer to save a couple of dollars on the part and end up costing themselves several times that on time and other costs getting the part to work, than spend a little more initially and save everywhere else and actually net more on the job - bonus for them is the time that would have been wasted can then be used elsewhere to make them money.
@@gordowg1wg145 yep that's right. Sad part is it's a family business I've been part of for 10 years now. We end up shooting ourselves in the foot doing stuff like that. Oh well, what can ya do?
ohh I wondered why when I welded some O2 sensor bungs on they had mad undercut no matter what I did! This makes me feel better
And yet again, another masterpiece!
Very informative video. I do lots of gland entries on cylindrical terminal boxes, and these tips help a great deal. I generally fit them up using flat bar clamped to the inside of the tube, then tack up and take the cup for a walk if the gland is big enough.
Dumb question: if the bolt seals the bung, and the plugs seal the ends, and gas is flowing into the tube, does that mean that it's leaking or purging out of the seam between the bung and the pipe? My concern would be that as the gap was sealed off, the pressure from the purging gas would blow out the molten metal at the very end. Maybe the surface tension is enough to keep it all locked in.
You are a master welder sir. Amazing weld, and very interesting and sensible tips. Thank you.
"Don't forget to clean your bung"
Best piece of advice on the internet..
i weld at 90 amps when welding stuff like that and aim the arc slightly towards the thicker piece with the threads in this case. i personally weld nuts to square tubing fairly often in my work and it is a similar thing when welding this thing.
but what i mostly weld is thin walled stainless steel tubing with tig.
nice video! another tip. try using isopropyl alcohol instead of acetone
Can you drill a hole after you weld the "bung" on? Given the right ID hole saw size, ofc. Would it make things any simpler?
Nice clean welds. More gas means faster cooling and also salmon colors. Speaking from experimentation.
one of the better videos on bung holes
Very nice. The bolt is clever, the back gassing a must!
I've done literally thousands of stainless fittings to stainless tube, the requirements being for pressurized hydrogen and helium gas. If you want something to center a fitting to the hole in the stainless tube, machine a plug to fit the bung for alignment. NEVER, EVER use a threaded bolt as a centering device. It only takes one to freeze up into the fitting to destroy both the bung and the pipe assembly it's going on to. Also, I usually use the bung as the gas vent to allow the inert gas to exit the assembly. This guarantees inert gas right at the inside of the weld where it needs to be.
I'm not that good at welding only used mig before but probably could make the best looking welds than anyone else in the shop. New guy was bragging about his welding skills i needed an o2 bung welded in so i got him to do it holesaw and drop it in and weld. He didn't even get it sealed all the way had to grind a lot and weld it back. Picked on him for the rest time i worked there lol
Great voice. Could make a living with it.
Hi where do you do you buy O2 Oxygen Sensor Bug? Great video thanks!
First rule of welding, equalize the mass. Adding a bolt to the bung (ok for tacking into position) will add mass to the thicker part, increasing the energy necessary for thicker part to heat up, increasing the the chance to blow through. Am I wrong?
I covered this in Rule 9.
You don't always get equal mass and you have to learn how to work with that.
What's the source for the NPT bung's that have been notched? My Googlefu doesn't seem to be very strong. Thanks!!!
Masterfully taught and illustrated, thank you for your videos.
What do you mean by purging the pipe 🧐🤔 I've seen Rock solid do that too and I didn't understand what he's doing 🤔
Once used a stainless steel bolt in such a scenario, the thing you can not get out again. :D
loool
Yip...
bin there, done that 🤦♂️
How did you fix that Fraylem I did the same thing
I welded on a handle to throw away and started over.
@@Josefppaz you welded the bolt to the bung. Cut it off and redo it...
What I want to know is, why do they even bother making TiG welders without a pedal? I mean sure, you can scratch start and all, but the quality, reliability and looks of a good weld really depend on a smooth start and finish as well as adjustment of heat during the welding process. I do know the answer....money. Still, TiG without a variable trigger is kinda useless. Great video!
what's the rationale of using 308 filler rod and (assuming) something like 304 base material? wouldn't 316 perform better as both the exhaust or manifold and filler material? regardless of that though, fantastic work, a lot of broscience in the field of welding especially coming from mechanics rather than welders
thanks for the tipps!!! wolfram electrode is i think? 2cm out from the gas nozzle? how much liter/minute would You recommend? sorry for my scool english, thanks!!!!!!!
You had me at laughing at "clean your bung hole". Good video overall.
Do you have any tp?
Bungholio.... the subliminal humor is hilarious.
ha ah haha ha you said "bung hole" ha haha haha
Thanks never imagine all this would be so involving.
Great info.. can you do a video on making a jig for bent tubes, forming an OEM style exhaust port spigot for harleys, best wire grade and thickness to make the best welds on 304 tubing, welding a stepped tube i.e. 1.75" to 1.875" basically everything that's required to make a set of 2-1 exhaust system for harley
For smaller bungs lets say a 1/8 npt bung, I use the drill bit that I drilled out the hole with to position the bung.
Always fun when the bolt tightens up in the bung, and refuses to come out.
And removes ALL the threads when removing from the bung..GOOD times...
Great video... forgot to mention take the bolt out right away before it cools or it may be stuck in there for ever.. "count the dabs" good tip thanks..
Love your channel mate! You got a great passion for fabrication !!!
Can’t argue the results, great looking weld!
If i suck at welding and only have a harbor freight 90 amp welder, can i just throw tack welds around the whole thing until i cover 360°
Thank you for some great tips. Have a nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Excellent advice, thanks! Any chance you can do one of these videos for Aluminum bungs too?
Nice work, beautiful looking welds and great instruction. Thanks for making these.
I was literally searching for this last night. U herd my prayers lol.
Hurd.
in german we call them "Muffe mit Innengewinde" (socket with female thread)
Really nice video and great looking weld. Trying to do that underneath a car is tough though and hard to get all the way around. Sometimes you don't have the option of laying it on your work table.
Nice video. Beautiful weld. Thanks for the tips. I will use them to pick a good welder for my project.
Enjoy your videos and can tell you have great free - hand skills but kinda lost me on counting dabs. But definitely is working wth your style and end product looked great.
Hi! May i know what model of machine your using. Thsnk you!
I hear you're saying count your dabs But does that really mean For each individual melted puddle ?
Should you use a stainless bolt when welding stainless to stainless, for the really picky or certified sort of job ?
No. It's very likely that it would get stuck.
How does he keep a straight face? Saying bung and hole repetitively? Incredible self discipline.
Big problem here in the UK, is free machining stainless used for the bosses.Undercut is impossible to avoid.316, never a problem.
Excellent video as I'm getting ready to TIG my turbo hotside. I've been Tig welding aluminum for twonyears now, steel/stainless are harder for me to grasp for some reason. You mentioned using a .045" filler rod. What size tungsten would you pair with that? Does this .045" filler rod tip apply to welding the v-band flanges as well?
For me it depends on amperage I'm going to use. 3/32'' is common as all around tungsten... If You're picky like me try to find .080''. I started to use it on thin stainless. 3/32'' felt too much and 1/16'' didn't stand so many restarts.
remember not to use galvanized bolts as the heatsink/locater
Or stainless bolts in a stainless bung. The stainless steel has a tendency to seize up to itself. Use a plain steel bolt.
Which process and torch you advise for welding thinn steel tube
Thank you for posting this.
What does purging your stainless mean? I say you put an air hose or something in the pink caps on the pipe. Not sure what those are for either.
Back purging keeps the oxygen away from the back side of the weld and eliminate's the stainless from "sugering"
And you back purge with argon, not with air.
@@253fabrication oh ok. Thank you.
Sensei Justin, I have a similar situation: angled solid 1" BungKing seat bungs on a 10 gauge mild steel solo seat pan. My 1/16 tungsten tips are burning up and the machine only lets you go to 90 amps before giving a warning. My welds look like blobs. Should i go to 3/16 tungsten , small wire (like double wound mig wire) or ? and say, 70-80 amps like you are doing here? You are right the parts are getting glowing hot. Nothing is flowing except the money leaving my wallet. :-0
Thanks for the video... I appreciate the suggestions.
What happens if you don't left the post flow run on weld after welding? Btw thanks for the video🤙
Best Bung hole video I have seen. Thanks.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing your skills. 👍
that's fine if you can roll the pipe around like that on a bench have put tons of threadlets on pipe but usually after the pipe is all up and then then the engineers ask for probes and drains always in position and usually on a ladder
Fine! Looking forward to weld my Ariel NH framework...
Should the title have been " Tips for your Bung "
Very nice. Thank you for your video and time
Great presentation! Thank you
BIG HYPE for you for using mm also. Thanks
Can you explain the purge setup? Purpose ect? Just learning.