A few other tips... Invest in a shop manual, it will teach you lots of stuff. The EU1000 and the EU2000 are very similar. There's a pitot (jet) tube right above the main jet that should be removed and cleaned. It has lots of little holes in it and is the main reason for rough idle. The plastic pilot jet causes the generator to bog down under load if dirty. Always try to fix the old carb; China replacements may be worse than the dirty one you're taking off. Nice video; thanks for sharing.
Make sure the gas cap vent is working properly, check and clean the spark arrestor, inspect the spark plug and replace if needed, and make sure there is no fuel mixed with oil if it has flooded itself before. When gas is in the oil the crankcase breather that goes to the carb will suck the fumes of the gas in once it begins to warm up causing it to stall or making a hard restart condition which in turn is a rich condition. Tricks of the trade my friend done it all my life. Hope you get it figured out.
I have a knockoff version of this generator and it always needs a squirt of starting fluid to get it going. I even drilled a small hole in the outer cover to access the air intake with the can straw. Saves a lot of arm-wear.
Just got around to watching this one. Had to laugh a little because I think I just got to see the normally cool, calm, collected Mr. James Condon get a bit...exasperated, shall we say? That little Honda was kicking your butt. Glad to see you got it resolved.
I bought a Yamaha ef1000is for a very good price and the carb has been tampered with. Emulsion tube was broken in half, lots if corrosion. Finally replaced all the jets, I was able to make it run ok (but not perfectly). Local Yamaha dealer, told me they don’t bother trying to get the carbs of these fixed when they see corrosion; they just replace the assembly. Thanks for sharing this!
Ive had a 1000i since 2004, bought it for its small size as backup power for a year-long trip in a '71 VW bus to Central America. Now I use it when the power is off, or flexalerts in San Diego; which is surprisingly frequent. You can leave third world countries only to come back to the same... Genny starts first-pull every time. I make sure to run it once a month for thirty minutes under load, non-use is worse than abuse. Annually, I drain the carb bowl checking for water, clean the air filter with Maxima Air Filter Cleaner and instead of oil I use FFT, then change the oil. I was running Mobile1 10w30 until I learned aircooled engines need SJ, so I now run Toro-SJ small engine oil. For S&Gs inspected piston head with borescope and found moderate carbon on the piston head, ran two tanks of 10% PEA GM-X66P which changed formula, so switched to BMW Upper Engine Cleaner, same bottle as X66P, BMW label now says "with Techron" instead of PEA, you go Chevron. Thought the 1000 had a timing belt like the 2000i, however, the 1000i has timing gears, thats a relief... Fan of your channel, wish you commented more on how to take better care of these things. Maybe vids on RV Onan/Cummins generators, the naked-frame variants, not much left to learn; they all seem the same.
I ALWAYS drain the carb on shutdown. Even if I think I will be using it tomorrow. Turn on the main switch, remove gas cap, wipe top of tank with a clean cloth then use my mouth to pressurize the fuel system. Turn on the choke. They ALWAYS start on the first pull. I have an EU1000i and two EU2000i's. Truly this method NEVER requires a second pull. Empty fuel tanks once a year and burn the gas in my oldest car.
I've had my used Eu1000i that I bought back in 2010 now 11 years. Rule of thumb on always drain the float bowl completely, then I leave the engine switch in the "off" position, flip the choke on, then pull the starter handle 4 or 5 times to suck any remaining fuel out of all the jets, then it's ready for storage. Old fuel in these Eu1000o's is another bugaboo. Best to not store them long term with fuel in them, or blend with at least 30 to 40% 100LL AVgas and regular 87 octane gas and some SeaFoam. AVgas tends to keep problems at bay with the carburetor. Best thing to do is run them 30 minutes under a decent load, I use a 600 watt hair dryer, 1x per month. Circulate and use that gas up, so it doesn't go bad on you.
You need to poke a very fine wire through that jet that pops up under the idle screw they are prone to plugging with crappy fuel varnish Finally found that was my problem all along same on the eu2000s
In the end I took my inverter to be fixed and all the problems came down to a pilot screw which had been cleaned badly and enlarged the hole in the jet. Not something which I would have picked up on, but the engineer took one look and knew what the problem was. So you need to be careful when cleaning these things.
Had a carburetor that would randomly overflow, real tickler, long story short, it was the pin that holds the float in, was slightly bent, straightened it out never overflowed again.
The carburetors on those things are literally affected by every little thing if people knew how sensitive they were, they would be more careful about the fuel they use because these things can be affected by the weather or a carburetor this small even altitude can cause problems. I’ve been waiting years for someone to come up with a more reliable way to run a small engine than a float carburetor, but it has never happened. I guess electronic fuel injection would be the only other direction to go in and that has its own idiosyncrasies. Honda is a great brand, but they have a way of making their parts, rare and hard to find and not every model generator uses the same parts. You could literally have two identical generators side-by-side and each one will have a different part number for the same part annoying very annoying. i’m in the camp of once there’s corrosion in the carburetor anywhere it’s toast. Just order a new one.
the most over priced generator seems to be the most hard to repair & has the most problems 🤔 i had 2.. the reason 2 was the first i returned 2nd used 2 times is screwed up & i got it going & sold it.
@@jcondon1 Well not here..lol. Y have had a lot of this repared here in my workshop due to the bad gass they sell here at the pumps in the Netherlands. Your ploblem lies in the small jet, , what y always do is get the carb totaly apart, lett all the parts soke in thinner for a night, and blow all the ports and jets out whit compressed air, Y seldom use a ultrasonic cleaner. Always worked out whitout any new parts needed sofar, and y did dozends off them. What y always do whatever is done to this genny,s is clean the tanks out fully, and dont forget the pulse pump and feul shut off... .Fresh fuel and its fixed.
checked the overload protection?? Reset by pushing ... Iff it still doessnt work the inverter is blown, In the bij for parts is the next solution, These spare inverters are expensive!
![[4 Quick DIY Fixes] Generator only Runs on Choke / Half-choke!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fgxgdKl7Mw0/mqdefault.jpg)
A few other tips... Invest in a shop manual, it will teach you lots of stuff. The EU1000 and the EU2000 are very similar. There's a pitot (jet) tube right above the main jet that should be removed and cleaned. It has lots of little holes in it and is the main reason for rough idle. The plastic pilot jet causes the generator to bog down under load if dirty. Always try to fix the old carb; China replacements may be worse than the dirty one you're taking off. Nice video; thanks for sharing.
I replaced that inline fuel filter tube and that was most of the problem. I don't like that design however
Make sure the gas cap vent is working properly, check and clean the spark arrestor, inspect the spark plug and replace if needed, and make sure there is no fuel mixed with oil if it has flooded itself before. When gas is in the oil the crankcase breather that goes to the carb will suck the fumes of the gas in once it begins to warm up causing it to stall or making a hard restart condition which in turn is a rich condition. Tricks of the trade my friend done it all my life. Hope you get it figured out.
I have a knockoff version of this generator and it always needs a squirt of starting fluid to get it going. I even drilled a small hole in the outer cover to access the air intake with the can straw. Saves a lot of arm-wear.
I don't know what you use as "starting fluid", but I found Berryman B12 works well in that capacity ...
Just got around to watching this one. Had to laugh a little because I think I just got to see the normally cool, calm, collected Mr. James Condon get a bit...exasperated, shall we say? That little Honda was kicking your butt. Glad to see you got it resolved.
The sweetest sound of any portable generator on the planet...and yes they are expensive 🤐
Same experience with my Honda 2.3hp outboard motor's carb. Ended up replacing it just like you.
I bought a Yamaha ef1000is for a very good price and the carb has been tampered with. Emulsion tube was broken in half, lots if corrosion. Finally replaced all the jets, I was able to make it run ok (but not perfectly). Local Yamaha dealer, told me they don’t bother trying to get the carbs of these fixed when they see corrosion; they just replace the assembly. Thanks for sharing this!
Ive had a 1000i since 2004, bought it for its small size as backup power for a year-long trip in a '71 VW bus to Central America. Now I use it when the power is off, or flexalerts in San Diego; which is surprisingly frequent. You can leave third world countries only to come back to the same... Genny starts first-pull every time. I make sure to run it once a month for thirty minutes under load, non-use is worse than abuse. Annually, I drain the carb bowl checking for water, clean the air filter with Maxima Air Filter Cleaner and instead of oil I use FFT, then change the oil. I was running Mobile1 10w30 until I learned aircooled engines need SJ, so I now run Toro-SJ small engine oil. For S&Gs inspected piston head with borescope and found moderate carbon on the piston head, ran two tanks of 10% PEA GM-X66P which changed formula, so switched to BMW Upper Engine Cleaner, same bottle as X66P, BMW label now says "with Techron" instead of PEA, you go Chevron. Thought the 1000 had a timing belt like the 2000i, however, the 1000i has timing gears, thats a relief... Fan of your channel, wish you commented more on how to take better care of these things. Maybe vids on RV Onan/Cummins generators, the naked-frame variants, not much left to learn; they all seem the same.
I'am Your Newest Subscriber When Those Hondas Are Running Rough In And Out In And Out Seafoam Will Get Them Running Smooth Again
I ALWAYS drain the carb on shutdown. Even if I think I will be using it tomorrow. Turn on the main switch, remove gas cap, wipe top of tank with a clean cloth then use my mouth to pressurize the fuel system. Turn on the choke. They ALWAYS start on the first pull. I have an EU1000i and two EU2000i's. Truly this method NEVER requires a second pull. Empty fuel tanks once a year and burn the gas in my oldest car.
A little fuel maintenance and the carb will always work.
I've had my used Eu1000i that I bought back in 2010 now 11 years. Rule of thumb on always drain the float bowl completely, then I leave the engine switch in the "off" position, flip the choke on, then pull the starter handle 4 or 5 times to suck any remaining fuel out of all the jets, then it's ready for storage. Old fuel in these Eu1000o's is another bugaboo. Best to not store them long term with fuel in them, or blend with at least 30 to 40% 100LL AVgas and regular 87 octane gas and some SeaFoam. AVgas tends to keep problems at bay with the carburetor. Best thing to do is run them 30 minutes under a decent load, I use a 600 watt hair dryer, 1x per month. Circulate and use that gas up, so it doesn't go bad on you.
Nice little inverter generator
You need to poke a very fine wire through that jet that pops up under the idle screw they are prone to plugging with crappy fuel varnish Finally found that was my problem all along same on the eu2000s
I found that unscrewing the gas cap helps the bowl fill
Wonder if the Servo on the old carb went bad or wasn't completely working 🤔 @James Condon
How would you test that? I have the same problem
@@julianporter5
With a multimeter you'll find the parameters in a service manual
In the end I took my inverter to be fixed and all the problems came down to a pilot screw which had been cleaned badly and enlarged the hole in the jet. Not something which I would have picked up on, but the engineer took one look and knew what the problem was. So you need to be careful when cleaning these things.
@@julianporter5 you took an inverter generator to an Engineer to Be repaired?
Is this what it was?
Did you install a Honda Carburetor ($170) or a China one ($28)?
Honda Carb
Hi, was the old carb also a Honda one? I just got wondering that spare float and needle, as they did not fit properly... Br, Eeli
Remind me to never work on one of these small Honda Gensets. Way to much work for little gain in either power or moolah.
They are worth every dollar paid them my EU1000i can power my 5000 Btu window AC UNIT 7 hours on half a gallon of gas
Is that a real mecanics solution? In that case you better dont work on anything...
Thanks
5:43, I'm voting for electrical. I have my reasons. Don't pry.
Wow you can hear how bad it's studdering under load and a 60w light bulb
Had a carburetor that would randomly overflow, real tickler, long story short, it was the pin that holds the float in, was slightly bent, straightened it out never overflowed again.
All the parts ya got in surprised ya didn't just take them from the new carb and then leave them parts in the bag until there absolutely needed 🤔
Funny thing is, I kept the old carb. Ended up using it on a Honda eu2000 and it worked perfectly.
@@jcondon1 oh wow
@@jcondon1 GO FIGURE!!!!
To save me another 25 mins.. was it the float needle seat?
Sounds like a frustrating little generator
It generated frustration.
I don't know if I've heard you sound so disgusted as you did at the end when you pulled the trigger on installing the new carb.
I can usually fix them. Never did figure out what was wrong with this one.
The carburetors on those things are literally affected by every little thing if people knew how sensitive they were, they would be more careful about the fuel they use because these things can be affected by the weather or a carburetor this small even altitude can cause problems. I’ve been waiting years for someone to come up with a more reliable way to run a small engine than a float carburetor, but it has never happened. I guess electronic fuel injection would be the only other direction to go in and that has its own idiosyncrasies. Honda is a great brand, but they have a way of making their parts, rare and hard to find and not every model generator uses the same parts. You could literally have two identical generators side-by-side and each one will have a different part number for the same part annoying very annoying. i’m in the camp of once there’s corrosion in the carburetor anywhere it’s toast. Just order a new one.
the most over priced generator seems to be the most hard to repair & has the most problems 🤔 i had 2.. the reason 2 was the first i returned 2nd used 2 times is screwed up & i got it going & sold it.
A lot of trouble for just a few parts. Should have just put the new carburetor in
How to do if its start and dont throw electricity
I have one of this model, it hasn't broken yet but it will need mantinence at some point
Wondering if that needle with spring went on other side of float. Never seen such a difficult carb.
Its rare for a Honda to act up.
@@jcondon1 Well not here..lol. Y have had a lot of this repared here in my workshop due to the bad gass they sell here at the pumps in the Netherlands. Your ploblem lies in the small jet, , what y always do is get the carb totaly apart, lett all the parts soke in thinner for a night, and blow all the ports and jets out whit compressed air, Y seldom use a ultrasonic cleaner. Always worked out whitout any new parts needed sofar, and y did dozends off them. What y always do whatever is done to this genny,s is clean the tanks out fully, and dont forget the pulse pump and feul shut off... .Fresh fuel and its fixed.
@@MrBugsier5 Hey fellow Euro - where are you buying parts for these generators in Europe? Bedankt!
Not sure how the float would wear out
Very ruff roads will destroy a float
Maybe change the title of the video to HOW I WASN’T ABLE TO FIX MY HONDA EU1000i GENERATOR.
Gotta love RUclips get rich quick folks.
i have one running but not product any power Could some one telling me how to fix the problem
Thank you
checked the overload protection?? Reset by pushing ... Iff it still doessnt work the inverter is blown, In the bij for parts is the next solution, These spare inverters are expensive!
It’s easy to put more money than it’s worth
What is the carb number
The part number for the carburetor I used was 16100-ZM7-D25
The link to the one I purchased is www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJTMKEG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
11-15-2024
6