😂😂Chears James. Yere took me a lot longer than I thought it would. Just setting it up too 2 days. But I expect it from this job now. The older builds take so much longer to match into the new don't they👍👍👍
"Oh we need another groove here" haha glad you left that in, I was wondering what shape your steel was when you showed us the pencil marks on the joist without the final cutout!
This is the second vid I've watched that fast forwards at this critical point when the beam is being located in its final position at height. Would be great to see this in real time as its the most difficult part of the process. Secondly, I would like to see how you get the other beam into the pocket as the beam is longer than the room size 😁
Hi Robert we drilled through the Steel and bolted 2 6inch x2inch timbers witch sat inside the steel. Then nailed out hangers to the wood. You can also bend them over at the top and tec screw them into the steel👍👍👍
Ace job that mark ! Your bloody fearless taking such a monster on but god on yer pal . Now your putting music on the vids can I request sone Justin Beiber please 😬😂😂🧱👍🏽
Great work, starting to take shape now! Those joist centres look wider than usual though, any reason for that. Didn't think you can exceed 400mm centres.
Brilliant. This vid could not have com at a better time for me - i am doing pretty much the same thing with some steels. A few quick questions about bolting the two parallel beams together. What was the distance between the hole centres, was that M14 threaded bar that you used, did you use spacers between the beam webs to set the distance or just use the bar/bolts to pull them together and are there any guidelines/regs for the connections?. cheers - great channel
I mate I just had the bolt holes made at 500mm centers. With m14 bar. I dident use spaces because the steel clamped against each other. But if I have a cavity I get spaces made. Or you could cut some scaffolding tube for it. It did not have any regs for bolting together. Just said on my plan blot together so I just went for 500mm centers hope this helps. And thanks for watching best of luck with your job 👍🤞👍
Look at your existing and planned joist centres before steels are drilled so the bolts don't interfere with joists slotting tight into the web of the steel. Mark you should make a template of the end profile of the steel and then cut a plywood pattern that fits tight into the steel. Get a chalk line on the underside of the joists and line your ply pattern up to this and transfer shape to joists. Cuts should all be the same and fit tightly into web of steel.
@@markhep Interesting one that...as NHBC 6.4.12 only gives 45mm as min for I-joists (not solid), but yes 40mm seem too short. I think I'll have 72mm of support, but the structural engineer was bit taken a back that I even suggested using joist hangers. My steel is a bit of a pain as 265mm tall so I have to pack up 70mm on the flange (more drilling the steel) for the 195mm joists to get to finish height. Thank you so much for sharing! Just helps ease the pain of these decisions seeing others do it well!
@@FiscalWoofer 72mm is a good amount.if I would have thought on before I order it I minght have ordered a wider Steel . something to think about for next time 👍👍👍
How much is the span for the existing wall with the 2 beams fitted & bolted ? I have about 7.5 meter span would like to know can avoid having any pillar thanks
Hi Chris. We put the steel in place on the floor before we started any work. And put the acrows after the steel was on the floor. There would have been no way in getting the steel in afterwards 👍👍👍
Anyone...in this old house it is thin strips of floorboards...what type of boards do they use for the upstairs floor in the video. And as a non construction person... that strap is what holds the joist up... it does not rest on the the steel lip as well? So that is strong enough.... just curious... I know it is done correctly.
Hi mate yes They were living in it wile we did the extension. The floor boards are 18mm boards on floor in the old bit. But 22mm in top floor. You can for extra strength drill them to the steel if you like. 👍👍👍
Great video, learned a lot. When you cut the old joist ends for the steel, it looked like there was nothing holding up the inner wall. I can see the props holding the joists up, but the joists ends seem to be free. I am thinking of doing the same but I can't see how the internal wall is supported. Any advice would be a help.
Hi Phil. Yes so we have the joists support. And that's all we do because the inside wall is built on the joists. So as long as you support the joists we'll they will hold the inside wall up. We use scaffold boards to span the joists so we get everyone. The put acro up to them. Hope this helps 👍
@@markhep Thanks for the quick reply Mark. To me it looked like it was only the top inch of the joist that was under the inner skin and it I didn't think it was enough. The video proves it was, thanks again for your help.
Can you assist me please? I have had some steels installed with some new joists. The joist sit flush inside.the rsj and the bottom flange is protruding by around 20mm. How can plasterboard be installed with the flange not flush with the bottom side of the joist? Thanks.
Hi .the best way will be to batten underneath.thats probably the cheapest way you can do it then put the boards on just use roof laths they are cheap and around 25mm
@@markhep thank you for your reply!. Just to confirm that would mean battening the entire area where the new joists are installed? I am in the process of having a loft conversion on a semi detached bungalow. Hip to gable. The old ceilings were made from plywood so all ceilings were removed. Thanks.
@@markhep yes the step is what I was concerned by. The builder should have notched both the top and bottom to be flush with the flange on either side, just like you did in your work. Thank you for your help.
Hi , my partner is currently using a lifting genie just like this one it was all good lifting the steel beam up but it doesn’t want to come down , any advice ? Thankyou
@@markhep over engineering because nobody can be arsed to do the propper math for it, who cares about builders spines anyways ha ha they send pages that look like they worked it out, just knowing that we only look for the bit that says UB before it hahahaha
I like your videos Mark, you need just a better camera to film, surely you will improve the quality, thank you so much again for sharing your buildability knowhow
Hi Dale. It was the out side wall of the original house. So we had one for the inside blockwork plastered wall. And the other was under the rendered bricks. That used to be the out side wall of the house 👍👍👍
m today I put steel 450 pounds 7 m in length three people and one block and one support in a hole 35x35 cm all over the length of the wall it was funny but easy
Great work, starting to take shape now! Those joist centres look wider than usual though, any reason for that. Didn't think you can exceed 400mm centres.
Hi tiktok. Yere they about a block 440. The span of the timber is only about 2.6 m with that big steel in so went a bit more with it. Just so they dident drop on a joint on the blocks👍👍👍
A lot of graft but must be satisfying to see it in Mark. A great watch for us retired seat warmers cheers mate.
😂😂Chears James. Yere took me a lot longer than I thought it would. Just setting it up too 2 days. But I expect it from this job now. The older builds take so much longer to match into the new don't they👍👍👍
Another cracking video, Mark.👍......you lad's are not scared of a day's graft, that's for sure.
Chears Jim. Not scared but knackered 😂😂😂👍
The genie makes light work of it👍🏽 cracking job, made it look easy!!
Yere mate going to start using it a more. They just seem to make the bloody things so heavy now 👍👍👍
Mark Hep agreed, they’re a nightmare to transport and get onto the job!
@@ConstructionwithKieren your right there mate 👍👍👍
Used these genie lifts a few times fantastic bit of equipment. Easy to adjust things and can get jacked right with any aches and pains on the body.
Yere I really like them too 👍👍👍
"Oh we need another groove here" haha glad you left that in, I was wondering what shape your steel was when you showed us the pencil marks on the joist without the final cutout!
😂😂😂Yere God knows what I was thing marking that out 🤣🤣👍👍👍
Crackin video Mark, always look forward to your videos mate.
Get a Genie for every large steel, doesn't make sense not too.
Regards
Tim
Chears mate. Yere definitely will be using them a lot more. So much easier 👍👍👍
This guys a legend doing all this on his jack jones
Chears mike👍👍👍
Great work , really good stuff
Thanks mate👍👍👍
This is the second vid I've watched that fast forwards at this critical point when the beam is being located in its final position at height. Would be great to see this in real time as its the most difficult part of the process. Secondly, I would like to see how you get the other beam into the pocket as the beam is longer than the room size 😁
Hi Keith yere it's the slow part of the job probably why everyone makes it fast but yere I will keep it in mind for the next steel job 👍👍👍
Its great when the steel's go so well you are making good headway now mark well done them lifts are well named 🧞♂️🧞♂️🧞♂️🧞♂️🧞♂️😁😁😁😁😁
Yere feel like we getting on with it now. Think I going to start using the lift a lot more on jobs 👍👍👍
@@markhep ye thay just make a hard job easy no hassle for the likes of me and you 😁😁😁
@Mark Hep great video. I just did some of this kind of stuff. Wish I would of filmed it as it helps others.
Yere mate. Nice one. get the camera out next time. Is also good fun making videos 👍👍👍👍
good to see someone using a genie lift you can get extension pieces for the forks gives about 500 mm more reach makes for a nice safe job
Chears mate Yere I thought they did will ask for them next time. 👍👍👍
I only just realise that 3 weeks ago 🙄😂
@@neilsmart78 😂😂😂👍
Mark Hep good work mark
@@neilsmart78 thanks Neil. 👍👍👍
how and what did you attach to the I beam to hold the joist hangers?
Hi Robert we drilled through the Steel and bolted 2 6inch x2inch timbers witch sat inside the steel. Then nailed out hangers to the wood. You can also bend them over at the top and tec screw them into the steel👍👍👍
Love your videos Mark
Thanks Sally 👍👍👍👍
Brilliant thanks Mark 👍
Chears Michael 👍👍👍
Ace job that mark ! Your bloody fearless taking such a monster on but god on yer pal .
Now your putting music on the vids can I request sone Justin Beiber please 😬😂😂🧱👍🏽
😂😂😂I will try beiber again next week just for you 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍
Mark Hep 😏🧱👍🏽
Another great video mark, shame you didn’t have Justin beaber music playing along with it 😆
😂😂😂Chears mate. Yere may be next time 🤣🤣👍
Brilliant work guys hire that gear was a great price , looks areal strong job you guys done
Yere them genies are worth there weight in gold lol👍👍👍
Great work, starting to take shape now!
Those joist centres look wider than usual though, any reason for that. Didn't think you can exceed 400mm centres.
No risk of steel beams falling on the feet of the occupants. Well done!
😂😂Chears val👍👍👍
Nice job mark 👍
Chears mate. Yere big job out of the way that was. Feels like I getting somewere with it now 👍👍👍
Just subscribed. Cracking job.
Thanks mate. grate stuff hope you enjoy some of them that I put on 👍👍👍I do a bit of everything. So hopefully some stuff you minght like
Glad he had his adidas saftey boots on.
Safety first 😂 Yere think we both need some better boots on 👍👢👢
Brilliant. This vid could not have com at a better time for me - i am doing pretty much the same thing with some steels. A few quick questions about bolting the two parallel beams together. What was the distance between the hole centres, was that M14 threaded bar that you used, did you use spacers between the beam webs to set the distance or just use the bar/bolts to pull them together and are there any guidelines/regs for the connections?. cheers - great channel
I mate I just had the bolt holes made at 500mm centers. With m14 bar. I dident use spaces because the steel clamped against each other. But if I have a cavity I get spaces made. Or you could cut some scaffolding tube for it. It did not have any regs for bolting together. Just said on my plan blot together so I just went for 500mm centers hope this helps. And thanks for watching best of luck with your job 👍🤞👍
@@markhep thank you sir - great honest content. I went for it at 425 cntrs and just bolted as they also clamped together. cheers
@@carlreed1000 nice one. Will be bang on that mate 👍👍
Look at your existing and planned joist centres before steels are drilled so the bolts don't interfere with joists slotting tight into the web of the steel.
Mark you should make a template of the end profile of the steel and then cut a plywood pattern that fits tight into the steel. Get a chalk line on the underside of the joists and line your ply pattern up to this and transfer shape to joists. Cuts should all be the same and fit tightly into web of steel.
Super tidy work! Just wondering why you used joist hangers on centre span rather than notch the timber joists into the I beam?
Thanks mate if I remember I think they would of only had 40mm on to the beam that's why I decided to use the hangers 👍👍
@@markhep Interesting one that...as NHBC 6.4.12 only gives 45mm as min for I-joists (not solid), but yes 40mm seem too short. I think I'll have 72mm of support, but the structural engineer was bit taken a back that I even suggested using joist hangers. My steel is a bit of a pain as 265mm tall so I have to pack up 70mm on the flange (more drilling the steel) for the 195mm joists to get to finish height. Thank you so much for sharing! Just helps ease the pain of these decisions seeing others do it well!
@@FiscalWoofer 72mm is a good amount.if I would have thought on before I order it I minght have ordered a wider Steel . something to think about for next time 👍👍👍
How much is the span for the existing wall with the 2 beams fitted & bolted ? I have about 7.5 meter span would like to know can avoid having any pillar thanks
Hi mate the was 6m. That is a big span 7.5m
Hi Thanks just what i was looking for
any guidance you can give would be appreciated.
Quality video
Thanks mal 👍👍👍👍
Is it easy to line up the holes in the RSJ's for the bolts to go through?
Yere mate pritty easy. They make the holes a lot bigger than the bolt. So you get plenty of play with it 👍👍👍👍
@mark hep - How did you get the steels in behind the acrow props with the needles on them before you lifted ?
Hi Chris. We put the steel in place on the floor before we started any work. And put the acrows after the steel was on the floor. There would have been no way in getting the steel in afterwards 👍👍👍
Anyone...in this old house it is thin strips of floorboards...what type of boards do they use for the upstairs floor in the video. And as a non construction person... that strap is what holds the joist up... it does not rest on the the steel lip as well? So that is strong enough.... just curious... I know it is done correctly.
Hi mate yes They were living in it wile we did the extension. The floor boards are 18mm boards on floor in the old bit. But 22mm in top floor. You can for extra strength drill them to the steel if you like. 👍👍👍
@@markhep Many thanks!!
Great video, learned a lot. When you cut the old joist ends for the steel, it looked like there was nothing holding up the inner wall. I can see the props holding the joists up, but the joists ends seem to be free.
I am thinking of doing the same but I can't see how the internal wall is supported.
Any advice would be a help.
Hi Phil. Yes so we have the joists support. And that's all we do because the inside wall is built on the joists. So as long as you support the joists we'll they will hold the inside wall up. We use scaffold boards to span the joists so we get everyone. The put acro up to them. Hope this helps 👍
@@markhep Thanks for the quick reply Mark. To me it looked like it was only the top inch of the joist that was under the inner skin and it I didn't think it was enough. The video proves it was, thanks again for your help.
Can you assist me please? I have had some steels installed with some new joists. The joist sit flush inside.the rsj and the bottom flange is protruding by around 20mm. How can plasterboard be installed with the flange not flush with the bottom side of the joist? Thanks.
Hi .the best way will be to batten underneath.thats probably the cheapest way you can do it then put the boards on just use roof laths they are cheap and around 25mm
@@markhep thank you for your reply!. Just to confirm that would mean battening the entire area where the new joists are installed? I am in the process of having a loft conversion on a semi detached bungalow. Hip to gable. The old ceilings were made from plywood so all ceilings were removed. Thanks.
@@user-nz7ee3fi7o yes just to make it flat . otherwise you would have a step in the ceiling 👍
@@markhep yes the step is what I was concerned by. The builder should have notched both the top and bottom to be flush with the flange on either side, just like you did in your work. Thank you for your help.
@@user-nz7ee3fi7o no worries mate lucky a easy fix 👍👍
Hi , my partner is currently using a lifting genie just like this one it was all good lifting the steel beam up but it doesn’t want to come down , any advice ? Thankyou
Hi seems a bit strange that one normally you winded the opposite way and it goes down
@@markhep that’s what we thought but once it the gets to the second part of it feels like if it gets stuck :/
@@dianalaurareyesespildora5348 hi sorry carnt help there I have know idea lol. 👍👍👍
Bless you mark i feel your pain man, but atleast you have a genie lift this time dont think your scaffold hoist would enjoy that work haha, 👌
😂😂Yere did not dare to try the hoist. The steel just get heavier and heavier. Every time the design them don't they 👍👍👍
@@markhep over engineering because nobody can be arsed to do the propper math for it, who cares about builders spines anyways ha ha they send pages that look like they worked it out, just knowing that we only look for the bit that says UB before it hahahaha
@@damo8754 😂😂😂you so right. I haven't got a clue what all that other crap is 😂😂👍👍👍
@@markhep i think its some mathmatical madness from the matrix haha all those green numbers falling from the sky 😆
@@damo8754 😂😂😂👍
You must have a very understanding BCO judging by the way you cut the end of those first joists...
Haven't had one fail yet not sure why you think they were wrong. Lot stronger that way than putting joist hangers in
I like your videos Mark, you need just a better camera to film, surely you will improve the quality, thank you so much again for sharing your buildability knowhow
Yere definitely will be trying to make the vids better bit more practice 👍👍👍
@@markhep I suggest you to learn davinci resolve for editing videos, very intuitive and the free version is quite good
@@py_tok5589 I will take a look👍
In wich base you do this means any analysis is done in any software
We had a structural engineer. Do the calculations for what size steel we need. Is this what you meant 👍
Why not leave details of spans and beam sizes for refere?
I Mike sorry yere should have done really.next time 👍👍
@mark why did you need two steels?
Hi Dale. It was the out side wall of the original house. So we had one for the inside blockwork plastered wall. And the other was under the rendered bricks. That used to be the out side wall of the house 👍👍👍
👍👍👍😃🍻
Is that a wigan warriors top i see? Where abouts are you from?
We from Yorkshire. Was the mates top👍👍👍
That beam connector welded to the beam of the looks a little suspect.
Lol it wasn't me I carnt weld 😂😂😂👍👍👍. No that's how they do them mate. I had it all made with the holes all ready in it 👍👍👍
Mark Hep - fair play mate, put a shift in thought great work
@@darrenburton9308 cheers Darren 👍👍👍👍
What did you use to shim the rsj level?
Hi mate I just used slate but you can use metal shims if you have the right thickness. I find slate the easyway 👍👍👍
It's easy to forget the shape of a steel when cutting out the joist .
😂😂😂Chears mate 🤣👍👍
What was the size of the beam?
Hi mate. It was 5.6m long 170mm high and 150mm. The steel was thick about 15mm👍
m today I put steel 450 pounds 7 m in length three people and one block and one support in a hole 35x35 cm all over the length of the wall it was funny but easy
😂Yere mate nice one 👍👍👍
Vids are to short
I get a few saying that mate. Think I will start making them a bit longer. Dident want people getting board of me lol😂👍👍👍👍
The bends in the acroprops 🤢
I tile the tight lol👍👍
Great work, starting to take shape now!
Those joist centres look wider than usual though, any reason for that. Didn't think you can exceed 400mm centres.
Hi tiktok. Yere they about a block 440. The span of the timber is only about 2.6 m with that big steel in so went a bit more with it. Just so they dident drop on a joint on the blocks👍👍👍