No problem! I hate it when guys babble on like my ex-wife, just get to the point! I try to make all my videos short, sweet, and to the point without unnecessary talking.
Good video! Good pointing out that the bolts are the same length (so no worry about which one goes where). Future suggestion: Show everyone how you go about diagnosing a failed thermostat(for those with out a OBD scanner) or heater core. Due to the wide spread popularity of 5.7 (and other engine type) equipped Dodge and Chrysler vehicles, you should put together a series of "how to" videos for common issues as well as uncommon; you would get more than enough views/clicks to make it worth your while from RUclips ($$$). A common problem is the rear axle seals. Make a video that explains that process. Again, great job telling everyone what size socket and info about the bolt fasteners (takes the guess work out for those who are not in the know)! Most local shops want about $600+ to replace the rear axle seals. Just wondering, how many miles were on the car before the thermostat failed? My 07 Dodge Charger 5.7 has approximately 116,000 miles and it still has the original factory installed thermostat. Some of the comments submitted below mentioned that you didn't bleed the system. I understand that you didn't lose much coolant that would have made that step necessary. However, why not show everyone how to change the coolant and bleed the system in a future video?
Perfect video exactly what I was looking for. Had a hose burst on my 5.7 I swapped it and now it’s leaking from thermostat housing and I got the code P0128 I changed the coolant sensor awhile back but code never left so imagine this is my issue.
Thanks for the video. Just got a 300c 5.7l hemi a couple months ago and been fixing it up a bit at a time. Need a good mechanic to help me get where I wanna be
I'm going back to factory after running my second 180 stat in it and having it fail. Had my fans set to 180 recommendations as well, so I guess I'll need to reset them back to factory. The stat they say for my 5.7 Magnum at the Dealer parts Department is 195. is this correct?
@@beardsbucks2365 back then when i replaced the thermostat flange/housing, i didn't put a gasket on the flange,but this weekend i replaced my thermostat snd also put a new felpro gasket i had laying around.
Went to oreillys they had one for the housing so I'm assuming it's necessary. Only speaking from a plumbers point of view. I put some dope or gasket sealant on the housing and what not so both sides pf the gasket would have sealant. Tested just fine.
No you don't need to bleed the system after doing this. Now if you had changed say the water pump or the radiator, then yes you would need to beel the cooling system. If a large amount of coolant drained and a lot of air entered the system, that is when you need to bleed the system.
Sounds like you have a coolant leak somewhere. I would have your cooling system pressure tested and see if you are leaking coolant somewhere. All the symptoms you are describing sound like a low coolant level situation.
Can this cause the temp to read off? I just changed a knock sensor and coolant started to boil out of the reservoir. I don’t think a knock sensor replacement could have done that. But is the coolant sensor maybe on the same circuit bank?
Joshua Hughes the coolant sensor is located behind the alternator on a 12 Dodge Charger R/T FYI. You will have to remove the alternator to replace it .
Drain, flush, and refill radiator with proper coolant and distilled water every 5 years to prevent rust and corrosion in heater core, radiator, and entire cooling system.
My check engine light came on said it was this code but i have no symptoms no over heating or to cold is that normal? Still planning on changing it tho.
You may have to run a drive cycle. Run it from 55 up to 65 then let it coast back down to 55 without hitting the brakes. Repeat this about 5 times. And it should get the code to go away literally just had the same issue.
@@Vancev99x i did end up changing my thermostats sensor well when I opened it it didn't have one idk what the hell that was about but I put new one in and the code didn't come up anymore... however my transmission is now taking way to long to warm up have no idea why and all my research came up with nothing so might have to take it in.
@@madd6795 Sounds crazy but the new one may be stuck open. The one I just replaced is because the one I replaced before was faulty. One of the guys there said he's seen people swap thermostats out 2 or 3 times before there's a good one. That's why they give them a 1 year or lifetime warranty. 🤦🏿♂️😮💨
I have a 2013 Challenger Hemi.My tstat is working for im not over heating but I have a slight leak. I think the gasket that between fits between the housing has gone bad. WHAT do you guys think.
Same thing for me. Gasket was worn and so was the one on the thermostat itself. Runs just fine now after replacing both and adding sealant to the housing both sides of the housing gasket.
I just changed mine yesterday. But engine light still on. I think it's cuz I did not point the lil pin towards the engine for air flow. Demit why didn't I come across this vdo before. oh will will have to open up again. errhhh
Did you ever change it back? Did light turn off? Did you just have the sensor go off no symptoms? I got the check engine light said it was this code but I have no symptoms car running perfect temp
@@bundysgarage auto zone. I also saw that my old stat had a piece of plastic missing. What I didn’t do was put that little dot at the 12 o’clock position. Any advice my brotha
I tested my thermostat and it opens at 206°F. 3° shouldn’t be an issue. But then I noticed that my thermostat gasket is just as boogered up as yours, so that’s probably the problem. I’ll replace it and see what happens.
There’s a gasket on the Tstat and there’s supposed to be a gasket between the mating surfaces of the tstat housing and the metal connector with the radiator hose on it
Just replaced the water pump on my 2014 Grand Cherokee Hemi and the only gasket at the upper hose housing is the one on the thermostat. There is no gasket between the mating surfaces of the outlet housing flange and the water pump itself.
You could use a little bit of black rtv instead of a 6$ gasket if you wanted to make sure it wouldn't leak. Doesn't require it though but I'll normally add some when doing hemi motor jobs.
Great job showing people how to install thermostat correctly with vent hole at 12 clock or on top. Most video don't show.
What happens if the vent hole is not in the correct place ?
@@johnnymora1017did you find out
@@nafiscarter8053lmao I did!! But not I fixed it!!
Thank you for getting to the point and not talking forever about useless crap before you get to why I watched your video. Thank you
No problem! I hate it when guys babble on like my ex-wife, just get to the point! I try to make all my videos short, sweet, and to the point without unnecessary talking.
Lol...The second voice seems to full of knowledge. Good thing he was there.
I just bought one that doesn't have the rubber on this inside is it mandatory?
This video is right on time💯
Good video! Good pointing out that the bolts are the same length (so no worry about which one goes where). Future suggestion: Show everyone how you go about diagnosing a failed thermostat(for those with out a OBD scanner) or heater core. Due to the wide spread popularity of 5.7 (and other engine type) equipped Dodge and Chrysler vehicles, you should put together a series of "how to" videos for common issues as well as uncommon; you would get more than enough views/clicks to make it worth your while from RUclips ($$$).
A common problem is the rear axle seals. Make a video that explains that process. Again, great job telling everyone what size socket and info about the bolt fasteners (takes the guess work out for those who are not in the know)! Most local shops want about $600+ to replace the rear axle seals.
Just wondering, how many miles were on the car before the thermostat failed? My 07 Dodge Charger 5.7 has approximately 116,000 miles and it still has the original factory installed thermostat.
Some of the comments submitted below mentioned that you didn't bleed the system. I understand that you didn't lose much coolant that would have made that step necessary. However, why not show everyone how to change the coolant and bleed the system in a future video?
Mine just took a crap at 120k
Mine is at exactly 116k and it’s a 5.7 and it’s the thermostat 😂
El mío compré mopar y me duró 20 mil km. Muy malo o tal vez fue una imitación del original
So you don't need to bleed/purge your system of air afterwards?
Perfect video exactly what I was looking for. Had a hose burst on my 5.7 I swapped it and now it’s leaking from thermostat housing and I got the code P0128 I changed the coolant sensor awhile back but code never left so imagine this is my issue.
Dime solucionaste el problema? Si era el termostato y no el sensor de temperatura? Cuál fue?
Thank you so much. Its guys like you who make life easier for everyone else💯💯💯 subbed
Thanks for watching and thanks for the sub. Glad it helped you out.
Thanks for the video. Just got a 300c 5.7l hemi a couple months ago and been fixing it up a bit at a time. Need a good mechanic to help me get where I wanna be
the polyurethane gasket on that stock thermastat is way better than the black rubber one on the new one. Mine cracked in 11 months.
Great video dude, thanks for the help.
Show the people how to bleed the vehicle. Thanks for the video
yess g just what i needed
Just found your channel. Glad I did! Great vids. Now I have to go watch all your old stuff. Haha
No rtv or gasket other than the rubber one on the thermostat ? I know they sell a paper gasket for it
Why didn't you bleed the air out?
amigo afuerzas ocupa purgada al cambio de termostato?
I'm going back to factory after running my second 180 stat in it and having it fail. Had my fans set to 180 recommendations as well, so I guess I'll need to reset them back to factory. The stat they say for my 5.7 Magnum at the Dealer parts Department is 195. is this correct?
Where do I fill the coolant up to. The cold or hot/warm level
If the engine is cold you will fill it to the cold line. If the engine is hot (but not to the hot line) add coolant until you reach the hot line.
Will this fix temp guage on cluster not moving
Does the thermostat housing/flange itself, need a gasket?
I’m wondering the same thing I went ahead and put one on mine but I don’t know
@@beardsbucks2365 back then when i replaced the thermostat flange/housing, i didn't put a gasket on the flange,but this weekend i replaced my thermostat snd also put a new felpro gasket i had laying around.
angel cedeno yeah it’s kind of Odd that they make one fort but don’t know if they come out with one in it
angel cedeno I love my 2005 Chrysler 300 with a hemi but they just have a Lotta issues
Went to oreillys they had one for the housing so I'm assuming it's necessary. Only speaking from a plumbers point of view. I put some dope or gasket sealant on the housing and what not so both sides pf the gasket would have sealant. Tested just fine.
You dont have to bleed the system? Its okay to open it up like that ?
No you don't need to bleed the system after doing this. Now if you had changed say the water pump or the radiator, then yes you would need to beel the cooling system. If a large amount of coolant drained and a lot of air entered the system, that is when you need to bleed the system.
That was my question, thanks!
That Race Car Driver YOU DONT HAVE TO BLEED THE CAR !! Just make sure to buy some coolant cause you will lose a good amount. I changed 2 weeks ago
Great video
What’s the temperature of that 203 thermostat is going to open
203° is the full open temperature
Is this the same for a Chrysler 300c?
IF it has a 5.7L HEMI
What happens if i don't put that pin at 12 a clock.?
It makes it really hard to “burp” the cooling system.
If your heater is constant blowing hot air, is that a thermostat issue as well?
Even if you put it on cold air? Then no, that would be a blend door issue. You would need to replace the blend door actuator.
You sound just like Jason Bateman
Could this fix a P2181 code also? Also gave an impulsive engine temperature code. Thanks
That code is for the coolant temperature sensor. Is the car overheating?
@@bundysgarage According to in car thermostat no, but smells hot after parking, heat won't work and fan is constantly blowing hard.
Sounds like you have a coolant leak somewhere. I would have your cooling system pressure tested and see if you are leaking coolant somewhere. All the symptoms you are describing sound like a low coolant level situation.
Thanks for the help
@atl2sdak what end up fixing your issue? I have the same code
I watched to see if they installed a flange gasket or not...and they did not. What kind of gum were you chomping on next to the mic??
torque specs would be nice.
Tight.
Would it be concerning that the gasket was missing?
The gasket wasn't missing. It was black. The old one was orange. It doesn't use a flange gasket.
I put one on oreillys said they had for the 5.7 300c.
Tests just fine.
On a 5.7 300c can I run it with out a Thermostat
Do you think Bc I didn’t put the pin at the 12 o clock position my check engine light still on and give me the same code?
Where did you buy the thermostat from?
Same question I bought mine at o'Reillys
O’Reilly’s
Can this cause the temp to read off? I just changed a knock sensor and coolant started to boil out of the reservoir. I don’t think a knock sensor replacement could have done that. But is the coolant sensor maybe on the same circuit bank?
Joshua Hughes the coolant sensor is located behind the alternator on a 12 Dodge Charger R/T FYI. You will have to remove the alternator to replace it .
What code would this be?
Old Radiator cap gets weak and does not hold rated pressure. This allows coolant to boil.
What’s the piece called that the hose is attached to? Mine is rotted out and leaking
Thermostat housing
Drain, flush, and refill radiator with proper coolant and distilled water every 5 years to prevent rust and corrosion in heater core, radiator, and entire cooling system.
My check engine light came on said it was this code but i have no symptoms no over heating or to cold is that normal? Still planning on changing it tho.
You may have to run a drive cycle. Run it from 55 up to 65 then let it coast back down to 55 without hitting the brakes. Repeat this about 5 times. And it should get the code to go away literally just had the same issue.
@@Vancev99x i did end up changing my thermostats sensor well when I opened it it didn't have one idk what the hell that was about but I put new one in and the code didn't come up anymore... however my transmission is now taking way to long to warm up have no idea why and all my research came up with nothing so might have to take it in.
@@madd6795 Sounds crazy but the new one may be stuck open. The one I just replaced is because the one I replaced before was faulty. One of the guys there said he's seen people swap thermostats out 2 or 3 times before there's a good one. That's why they give them a 1 year or lifetime warranty. 🤦🏿♂️😮💨
I have a 2013 Challenger Hemi.My tstat is working for im not over heating but I have a slight leak. I think the gasket that between fits between the housing has gone bad. WHAT do you guys think.
Same thing for me. Gasket was worn and so was the one on the thermostat itself. Runs just fine now after replacing both and adding sealant to the housing both sides of the housing gasket.
I just changed mine yesterday. But engine light still on. I think it's cuz I did not point the lil pin towards the engine for air flow. Demit why didn't I come across this vdo before. oh will will have to open up again. errhhh
Did you ever change it back? Did light turn off?
Did you just have the sensor go off no symptoms? I got the check engine light said it was this code but I have no symptoms car running perfect temp
what size ratchet,I have a v6 dodge challenger
You need to take that v6 car to your local salvage yard and tell them you want to give them your car
No gasket?
I change both sensor and stat and still get that code and temp drops to cold when weather is 36* and under what’s good
Where did you buy the thermostat from ?
@@bundysgarage auto zone. I also saw that my old stat had a piece of plastic missing. What I didn’t do was put that little dot at the 12 o’clock position. Any advice my brotha
Get a thermostat from the dealership. Replace the AZ one with the OE one and put the pin at the 12 o’clock position.
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
My dam 2012 challenger RT , The heater is blowing cold air. Any suggestions??
Vent actuator probably.. I have the same issue
@@johnnymora1017 I fixed it my it was my thermostat.. Thank God that's all it was.. Simple fix bro..
@@h.o.838thanks bro! I’m glad you got it fixed!
Do you not have to run a thermostat housing gasket on it I’ll put one on mine
It has a gasket. It's black. The old one is orange. They don't use or need a flange gasket.
Quit chewing gum while on camera man 😅
You should of had went with a 180 thermostat. I didnt see that you did any bleeding for air?
Didn’t have to bleed the system, very little coolant was lost in the process.
can you please do a video on how to fix the coolant temp sensor ?
What’s wrong with it?
There's a video how u take temp sensor off when u squeeze and disconnect temp sensor then a 19 mm deep socket gets it off.
What size tool 🔧 do i need i heard a half inch?
13mm
What about oil temp ???
I changed my thermostat and my car is still overheating .. I don’t get it..
What’s your radiator look like? How’s your water pump?
@@bundysgarage I don’t even know like what’s the signs to look for if it’s messed up
Bleed the system
What did that gum do to you? You attacking the it like it robbed you, loud as hell.
Did ya have to burp the coolant system
Nope. Not very much coolant left the system. So just topped off what was lost and we were good to go.
I tested my thermostat and it opens at 206°F. 3° shouldn’t be an issue. But then I noticed that my thermostat gasket is just as boogered up as yours, so that’s probably the problem. I’ll replace it and see what happens.
Where would the temp sensor located on these 5.7s
Did you figure it out
@@lsluis5695 opposite side. It’s a plug with a clip
There’s a gasket on the Tstat and there’s supposed to be a gasket between the mating surfaces of the tstat housing and the metal connector with the radiator hose on it
Just replaced the water pump on my 2014 Grand Cherokee Hemi and the only gasket at the upper hose housing is the one on the thermostat. There is no gasket between the mating surfaces of the outlet housing flange and the water pump itself.
You could use a little bit of black rtv instead of a 6$ gasket if you wanted to make sure it wouldn't leak. Doesn't require it though but I'll normally add some when doing hemi motor jobs.
Y’all got it all wrong you don’t need a gasket please don’t put a gasket the thermostat already has a gasket all it needs
The jiggly pin in the thermostat will help bleed the vehicle
I just bought a new thermostat and it had no rubber on it
No bleeding the Coolant for air???
Nope barely lost any coolant when we did this.
Why not say the damn bolt size
Watch how to Diagnose P0128 DTC on your 2006 Chrysler 300C or Dodge Magnum using the factory service manual. ruclips.net/video/Bt_1Sa5vXzA/видео.html
Might as well upgrade to a 180 while you're in there guys.
Please spit the gum out.... hard to watch lol
Sorry, it's the only time I have ever done that and now I make sure not to be chewing gum when I record videos.
interesting, super toxic liquid with your hands 👍