@@MotorCityMechanic my sensor looks really old and I'm having trouble removing it to bleed. I was told i can just leave the coolant cap off and run it for 30 mins to bleed it, is that true?
Thanks a whole bunch for the video. I just swapped out the heater core in my 2006 jeep commander with the 5.7 hemi and tried the funnel trick but still wasn't getting the heat I was getting before the swap, so now I'll try your way and see if I get better results, wish me luck.
You save my engine from overheating today July 4, 2020 man I thank you very much for making this videoGot a new water pump they did not bleed 🩸 the cooling system!!🧨💪🏾BLM🏎
Thanks for the video. One thing about fixing stuff is we all have our own methods. Personally speaking, I would rather go to a store and buy a 1/4" hex socket or allen wrench than mess with a plastic functioning temp sensor. But I know guys who drill a very small hole in thermostats also as their fix ?
Some thermostats have a small "rattle vent".....drilling a hole could help but it could affect the way that the system monitors the temp. What I mean is.....if the engine takes too long to warm up.....because of the hole allowing the coolant to bypass the valve and not get warmed up as designed.....it can cause a check engine light code. I too rather use the bleeder....plastic can get brittle over time. I have been getting alot of comments on the other related video about all the issues they have been running into and this version is just another option as in "worse case". Thanks Richard for watching!
Great video . I have 6.4 hemi in my chrysler 300 can't seem to open the bleeder valve on the water pump . Will be going in through the temp sensor hole . Cars heat ATM works best while driving . I have air in the system .
Another super helpful video! Would like to hear your experience and opinion on the 5.7 Hemi lifter tick and cam lobe and lifter roller failures. Seems like a way to common failure that doesn't have a 100% effective fix. Thanks!
90% of the ones we see are fleet vehicles.....and patrol cars. The issue with them is that they idle all day long in most cases and thats not a good thing especially when the oil pressure can get to single digits at times. Being that they idle all day long.....the idle time doesnt get factored into the oil change interval either. They typically go every 5000 which works great on a normal vehicle but not in this case.....that means in some cases once you factor in idle time (1 hr=30 miles driven) a 5000 mile oil change might actually be more like 10,000-12,000 in some cases we have seen. If you drive it normal and change the oil when your suppose to then you shouldnt have any issues. Thanks for watching and for asking. Make sure to subscribe.
Hey man, I don’t think you understand how helpful you were to me. Trying to deal with this seized bleeder valve and having to work night shifts and share my wife’s vehicle last two days and hours and hours of research you ended up helping. Thank you.
Hey David I appreciate you taking the time to do this video, it's helped me out and possibly just saved me hundreds of dollars, but then again maybe not lol. I say that bc I am currently having an issue with my '06 Chrysler 300c (5.7 hemi) and that issue, and I say that bc it's just one of the few issues I've been faced with which is oil in my coolant reservoir(if that's even what it is idk) all I can tell u is it looks like something similar to red clay like gunk. I took it to a couple shops and they both say it's oil due to either a head gasket or possibly a cracked block. The thing is it's going to cost me a ton of money that I don't have. So my question is David, can i drain/flush the entire thing, replace with fresh coolant and add head gasket/ block sealer? I'm not leaking or losing any fluids that I can see, but obviously something is going on with my coolant reservoir looking like it's mixed with red/ brown clay? Id really appreciate any help I can get if possible, thanks.
@@davidhunter184 your gonna have to drain flush and fill your coolant. Have that head gasket replaced change coolant change engine oil. If problem persist most likely you have a craked block. Only way to get a cracked block is if you over heated it.
@@rhurtadorh32 ok, thanks I'm going to get right on it, hopefully it won't cost too much lol. I heard it was very expensive to even changing the gasket. I'll check around and see what these other shops say, I know I can't afford it at the dealership. Again, thanks for your help.
Great video! Have you possibly made one or are planning on recording a 5.7 challenger water pump replacement? That seems to be fairly common and would probably help out a lot of shade tree mechanics hemi owners like me
I have to say that your videos are possibly the best "how to" video's that I have ever watched. Your are clear, concise and knowledgeable. Thank you for taking the time to help us all out. It is appreciated.
David, another great and helpful video! Just one thing, when applying the high temp thread sealer, it should always be one thread back on the item it’s being used on to prevent it from eventually traveling around in the coolant. Again, great video and info, you guys are the best! Thank you.
So first off great video I recently changed my coolant temperature sensor because of a bad sensor causing overheating which fixed it also bleed the system thank you . But now I'm having a OIL TEMPERATURE PROBLEM MY 2006 DODGE CHARGER RT oil is running around 220 and when I run my AC it for whatever reason heats up even higher to as high as 238 I can't figure out what's going on I also recently changed the oil pressure sensor. Is it possible there's another bad sensor does the hemi have an oil temperature sensor? PLEASE HELP IM SCARED I MIGHT LOOSE MY ENGINE DO TO OIL OVERHEATING BUT NOT SURE anyway thanks so much for the awesome content its been a huge help in diagnosing some of my problems.
Thanks for showing how you removed the bleeder valve. When draining how do you get all the coolant from the engine block? I located the drain plugs on the block and was able to remove the plug on the driver side but no luck on the passenger side (worth mentioning I ended up disconnecting the negative battery cable due to spark on the passenger side)
What was your end results? My 2011 RT 5.7 has been running way hot, so with a thermostat replacement, I also decided to do a full flush and fill. I've only been able to get two gallons in and two out during each of the five times I've performed a flush. The two block plugs, with everything in the way are next to impossible to remove without possibly damaging the bolt heads. That still leaves roughly half of the diluted coolant and cleaning agent in the block and system. We're you able to maybe remove the heater core hoses from the block area to be able to get the rest of the old coolant and cleaner out prior to replacing the nearly 4 gallons of 50/50 coolant? Thanks!!
My 2003 2500 5.7l hemi has a problem with coolant reservoir...kjust changed radiator and the reservoir has air coming out the lower neck of the filler below the radiator cap...It looks like you can screw out the reservoir neck...is that true or does my system need bleeding or is my reservoir broken and needs replacement
Many thanks man! Trying to catch up on emails, sorry for the delay. It was great to meet you as well. Again....thanks for stopping by and for commenting!
If my hemi has a bleeding valve, is burping the system still necessary? Or is using just the bleeding valve good enough to get all the air out? Also, what if the valve is stripped? Thank you
I remember back with my 82 024 with the 2.2 and the 90 shadow with the 2.5 I(recommended by the dodge club) replaced the bleed plug in the thermostat housing with nipple, elbow and pet cock or small valve, they also recommended drilling a small hole in the base of the thermostat itself, both worked wonders when changing fluid and bleeding air and living here in canada never affected the heat :)
I just replaced the upper radiator hose on my 5.7 hemi charger filled my pressure tank can I run the car to fill up the radiator itself or do I need to bleed the system
I would recommend it would "always" be better to bleed air from the sensor hole than the plug simply because you are the most gauranteed the sensor can be removed and reinstalled trouble free than the plug. More likely the metal plug will be siezed or pull the threads out with it than any issue that may be encountered with the plastic sensor. The plastic sensor can be MUCH easier replaced with a new one if you broke it or rounded off the nut faces on it than removing/replacing the metal plug if you round out the wrench faces or break off an allen ball tip in it or strip off some threads.
I couldn't remove the bleed plug in my 05 Hemi Magnum. I used one of those large funnels that attach to the overflow bottle and extended it up high. As the engine ran, it gurgled and gurgled and filled the system. It never overheated at all according to the gauge and the next day, the coolant was down just a little in the bottle. If i could get the plug out I would install a small valve that a tube could be attached to and avoid getting coolant on my belt.
David always love the videos you do on Hemi engines as I have a 07 300c 5.7 and had to change the water pump 4 times. They seem to leak behind the pump by the little gap next to Alt. 4th time is the charm it seems to work now no leaks I just added a little more silicone in that area. Keep up the good work David and thanks for showing where that bleeder plug is most auto part shops don’t know.
Thanks Robert. I need to eventually do a video on the waterpump on a Hemi....mine is seaping and covered under the extended warranty. Just have to find the time. Thanks for watching the videos and for following the channel.
The only real issue with the plastic is that I have seen the threads come off and then your stuck getting a sensor. Seems like you run into issues either way lol. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I hope you make some decent coin doing the videos. Cause you deserve it. They are great. Thanks for all the helpful info presented in a straight forward way. Helped me a lot
David, GM... Great video and great information on bleeding the coolant system. I have the 6.4 Liter, 2012 Challenger SRT8. Your video was also well put together and professional.
Excellent video! It has been a long time I haven't seen such a clear explanation! Quick question, please: can you tell me the normal running temperature for a Chrysler 300c 2011 in a 90 - 100 degree Florida area?
Oceanpointe Distributors Corp many thanks for the kind words. The normal temp range is half way on the gauge. Which is around 210ish give or take.. thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
It's nice that there is a bleeder port to use. I recently had an overheating issue with my 5.7 Hemi Jeep. Replaced the thermostat and housing but that didn't do anything. Then it blew the upper radiator hose. So, I decided it was time to replace the stock water pump. Using your information, I was able to successfully bleed the system.
Just want to say thank you very much for the video have been struggling with my 06 SRT8 for a couple of days I executed Plan B everything worked out perfectly once again thank you for your video👍👍👍👍👍
This channel is INSANE!!! 1. QUICK 2. STEP-by-STEP 3. CLEAR VIDEO 4. EXTREMELY KNOWLEDGEABLE MECHANIC How is it that RUclips is just reccomending this channel 4 years later???. New Subscriber!!!
Hey David, good info for a Hemi owner! Quick question...in the 08 300C, with 112K miles, should I replace the plugs with Platinum or stick with copper?
SUPER knowledgeable mechanic who really KNOWS what he's talking about and explains it in a user-friendly way that most anyone can easily understand! THANKS for taking the time to help the rest of us out Sir!
Great vid. The way the bleeders are secured with some industrial strength thread seal seems make them quite hard to get out. Meanwhile, our 2006 WK 5.7 does not have the temp sensor. Seems a bit of a poor design to me.
Thank youuu sirrrr this video was very very helpful the bleeder screw was not torn up but it had seized in the motor so I pulled the temp sensor, mannnn you’re the #GOAT 🐐🐐🐐 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💯💯💯✅✅✅
What a great follow up video! As a guy that has replaced 4 water pumps (post warranty) any video from you about the Hemi is loved. I have a question, after the last water pump change I noticed my upper hose was collapsing after motor cooled down. I replaced the hose (it was time anyway) but the new one is also collapsing. New Radiator cap in order?
Thanks, David. Good option to have, that bleeding through the temp sensor opening. Just did a water pump job on a 2012 Durango R/T with the 5.7 Hemi. I ran out of Teflon tape so just installed the temp sensor with none. Will go back later with the thread sealant (and also get more Teflon tape). I'm also getting an inch-pounds torque wrench, because mine does 10-150 ft.-lbs. Also, I subscribed because you're Chrysler-specific. Thanks again.
I have heard of a few doing that. I have to wonder if it would set a thermostat rationality code however.....then again a small hole might not affect it that much temp wise when warming up. As long as you have a new seal or going back with a new t-stat and doing it then sounds fine to me. Thanks for watching and especially for the comment.
MotorCity Mechanic Ive done it on many new vehicles, only a tiny hole is needed, like at most, 1/16-1/8” Just need to make sure the hole is near the top
This step really helped out Thanks A Lot! In my case it was a clogged radiator on a Ram 1500 5.7. It slowly built up heat up to 230 driving,but never boiled over. It took a long time to cool down.
I got a 2012 ram w 5.7 hemi.. and it overheats when at idle or a driveway for a long time..at that point my ac stops working.. it goes up half way between normal and the 3/4 temp mark..so basically about 5/8 or so of the gauge..woul that be an air pocket issue or fan...changed coolant
There shouldnt be an air pocket unless there was a leak or when you change the coolant. If thats the issue when you changed it then it shouldnt have been over heating before...if it was then there is another issue. I would recommend having it checked further. Could be numerous items....fan, clogged radiator....etc. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
I have this same issue and I also hear the coolant gushing behind my glove box. But the coolant level is always high in the radiator. Gonna try to bleed it in the morn.
I've watched every video I could find on how to bleed the air from the system and I'm still having difficulties. I have a 2011 300c with the 5.7 hemi. I changed the waterpump thermostat, bled the air via the bleeder screw, but for some reason it's not circulating the heat is working and it doesn't overheat at idle with the heat on but as soon as I turn off the heat the temp starts going up. I'm stuck and running out of money and ideas plz any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
You may have a clogged radiator......I recommend when its hot....try to grab both radiator hoses to see if any big difference in temperature.....with the engine not running of course so you dont get hurt. Also make sure that the fan or fans is working correctly as well at the radiator
@@MotorCityMechanic I changed the radiator, the water pump and thermostat and still overheating and coolant boiling at the reservoir. I turned the heat on inside and it blows cold.
@@randyu8688 Let me guess, you finally found it was air still? I had a 300 that I kept having to bleed for several days before it was drivable. My theory is the air gets trapped in the heater core because like you it had no heat but idk that? I just make sure to turn heater on high for a bit before bleeding them since then. Some are just a real bi!@# to get bled out.
@@harryballz6358 it may have been that but I went ahead and took the dash out. I have a center console but it was really easy. I replaced the evaporator and the heater core. And it's back to normal.
Good video. Just did my pump using the bleeder valve, and the coolant just went down a couple of times, but then I just topped it off, and it's all good!
Question I have a 2010 Dodge Challenger R/T I never had problems with my car over heating But recently I changed my Radiator bought it from American Muscle As well replaced A/C condensor now my car is over heating. I also changed my thermostat and over heating continued then replaced radiator fan from Orielys. And.. still over heating.
Hey David, Great teacher you are and great videos to. Question: I have a '19 Bighorn with a 5.7l and jsut got t a year ago but am now having issues with the electric fans ramping up but the water temp seems ok according to the guage. I changed out the electronic fans thinking they were going bad. The truck has 131,000 miles on it. New fans are doing the same thing ramping up like its running hot. I then checked the fluid levels and noticed the reservoir is empty and the dipstick has brown sediment on the lower part of it. Watching your video, you show the bleeder screw and how to purge the air out... Mine has A tube going from the bleeder screw to the block. Does this mean its self bleeding??? I'm ready to flush the system and I am wondering now that I saw this vid of yours on this. BTW I think the last owner or mechanic put the wrong antifreeze in it. Thanks for your vids and any help you can give is appreciated.
What if I'm just replacing thermostat without draining system. How do I bleed it since the system is already filled (minus the few ounces that will flow out when removing thermostat)?
Hey I have a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 hemi however I have neither the bleed screw or temp sensor on the top of my block any other potential bleeding methods?
Does anyone know when u replace the water pump does it need sealant on the gasket and also after replacement of the water pump do i need to bleed the system of any air
Waterpump requires a gasket/seal. It should come with one when purchased. The coolant system will need bleeding for sure. Thanks for asking and for watching. Make sure to subscribe.
Question... 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi. I have 2 problems. 1 is the water pump that I am doing tonight and the other one is: is there an alternate to the hydraulic radiator fan? The one we have is making a bad bearing noise and I cant seem to find one on line making my only other source a salvage yard. Is there a way to switch it to a regular fan with a clutch like they have on the 2014 Ram with the Hemi? Any input you can give me would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you for your time.
Mark Drouin I would have it checked to make sure that the radiator fan or fans is working correctly first and then go from there. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe
On my 2010 5.7 hemi, when I start the vehicle the fan comes on, i want to know is that normal. The fan doesn't move real fast but it stays on. This is after a new waterpump?, radiator and thermostat
ẞcenario #2 I believe it was where some dumb*** rounded the bleeder bolt out. The bigger dumb*** is me. That sensor was staring at me right in the face . Thanks
I need a help please. I did flush for my hemi 5.7 and thermostat changed. The car gets overheated after while. The coolant level is the same. When I open the bleeding screw no water comes out even id I top up water in the tank. Whats the problem here? Thanks
If the bleeder is frozen what's the best way to remove it, I don't have much room for large tools and it was said to be 1/4 L hex/torx but it won't fit, I've tried metric as well no luck and I don't want to grind out the inner plug so I stopped
I have a 5.7 2007 charger I remove the overflow bottle cap remove the bleeder screw filled with antifreeze and water nothing came out of bleeder screw, antifreeze runs out of the overflow tube what do you recommend!Or what may be the problem? The only other thing that I have is the thermostat housing, that other heater part with the plug on it that you disconnect I don't have that. If push come to shove can I do it just the old school way? Take the radiator cap off of the overflow bottle turn the heat on hot with low fan and let it run until no more bubbles and the reservoir I can't massage the upper hose because it has a spring in it. So I'm asking your opinion or what do you recommend?
Hello my brother has had two of you problem fix's video , he recently had the radiator replaced and water pump, then you video of the heater core supply hose with tee fix and now were having problem getting the coolant to circulate the way it should, ive been watching your coolant bleeding , in your opinion do you think that might be our problem now. the coolant is boiling in the coolant tank.... please advise back asap.
Hello, can U make a video, or just said how can i remove complete coolant from engine and cooler, i know only red pickock, but when i open it comes out only 2-3 liters, but i want to remove everything.
I have a 5.7 in my 2004 Ram. Just did a cooling system overhaul. No bleeder plug like on the set-up being shown here. Left the temp sensor out when filling up till it got there, then put the temp sensor in. You have to unbolt the A/C pump to get to it. Not hard when doing the water pump.
If im trying to do this in a 2013 Dodge Durango with 5.7 Hemi engine still installed in the car. How do I remove the filter / air induction hood to get to the area of the engine you are showing here?
Thanks Rafael. I will certainly keep that in mind. I appreciate the comment and for you watching the video. Make sure to subscribe if you havent already.
David if I were to take it to him mechanic and tell him that it needed to be believed the water needed to be bleeded because my water pump broke would they know what to do just by telling them that I know that's what's wrong because all the other parts have already ready when replaced except that part and how much would it cost me
I have a 2010 hemi 5.7 that can't get to stop running hot I have changed the head gaskets blow out the water lines bleed it but still runs hot can u help me please
David I just added a water pump cuz it broke I have already added where you took the two big screws out and I added just the lid just to make sure they did tell me that the water probably needed to be pumped out because it might have bubbles in it what is the cost more or less
You saved me on how to bleed our 2012 Chrysler 5.7 went to different store's even mopar nobody new what to do. Thank you.
Thanks for finding this video and for commenting as well.....glad I could help out. Now make sure to subscribe
@@MotorCityMechanic my sensor looks really old and I'm having trouble removing it to bleed. I was told i can just leave the coolant cap off and run it for 30 mins to bleed it, is that true?
Thanks man you are a life saver i was stuck because the bleeder is stripped
Seen that happen a few times and knew that had to be another way
Thanks a whole bunch for the video. I just swapped out the heater core in my 2006 jeep commander with the 5.7 hemi and tried the funnel trick but still wasn't getting the heat I was getting before the swap, so now I'll try your way and see if I get better results, wish me luck.
Perfect.. torque specs.... sign of a professional. Best to you and yours.
Many thanks Ray! Appreciate the feedback and for you watching. Make sure to subscribe
You save my engine from overheating today July 4, 2020 man I thank you very much for making this videoGot a new water pump they did not bleed 🩸 the cooling system!!🧨💪🏾BLM🏎
Not really
I agree, you should do more 5.7 hemi videos Especially 2013.
I want to thank you for the tip I had a problem with the flow seven thank you
Appreciate you watching Felipe! Make sure to subscribe
Thanks for the video. One thing about fixing stuff is we all have our own methods. Personally speaking, I would rather go to a store and buy a 1/4" hex socket or allen wrench than mess with a plastic functioning temp sensor. But I know guys who drill a very small hole in thermostats also as their fix ?
Some thermostats have a small "rattle vent".....drilling a hole could help but it could affect the way that the system monitors the temp. What I mean is.....if the engine takes too long to warm up.....because of the hole allowing the coolant to bypass the valve and not get warmed up as designed.....it can cause a check engine light code. I too rather use the bleeder....plastic can get brittle over time. I have been getting alot of comments on the other related video about all the issues they have been running into and this version is just another option as in "worse case". Thanks Richard for watching!
Thakz for u video it save me a couple or hundred $
Awesome! Always happy to help however I can
Great video . I have 6.4 hemi in my chrysler 300 can't seem to open the bleeder valve on the water pump . Will be going in through the temp sensor hole . Cars heat ATM works best while driving . I have air in the system .
Another super helpful video! Would like to hear your experience and opinion on the 5.7 Hemi lifter tick and cam lobe and lifter roller failures. Seems like a way to common failure that doesn't have a 100% effective fix. Thanks!
90% of the ones we see are fleet vehicles.....and patrol cars. The issue with them is that they idle all day long in most cases and thats not a good thing especially when the oil pressure can get to single digits at times. Being that they idle all day long.....the idle time doesnt get factored into the oil change interval either. They typically go every 5000 which works great on a normal vehicle but not in this case.....that means in some cases once you factor in idle time (1 hr=30 miles driven) a 5000 mile oil change might actually be more like 10,000-12,000 in some cases we have seen. If you drive it normal and change the oil when your suppose to then you shouldnt have any issues. Thanks for watching and for asking. Make sure to subscribe.
Hey man, I don’t think you understand how helpful you were to me. Trying to deal with this seized bleeder valve and having to work night shifts and share my wife’s vehicle last two days and hours and hours of research you ended up helping. Thank you.
Same here! Stripped out the bleeder screw, did not think of the temp sensor.
Mine was tight, but I sprayed some spray on it and used a hammer to bang it. Using a bar like he did in this video will ensure you cause an issue.
Quick question, when I use the bleeder valve to expel any air trapped should I have the front of my car lifted or leveled while I do this?
You should do more 5.7 hemi videos. Your vids are very helpful
I will certainly keep that in mind in the future. Thanks for watching and dont forget to subscribe.
Hey David I appreciate you taking the time to do this video, it's helped me out and possibly just saved me hundreds of dollars, but then again maybe not lol. I say that bc I am currently having an issue with my '06 Chrysler 300c (5.7 hemi) and that issue, and I say that bc it's just one of the few issues I've been faced with which is oil in my coolant reservoir(if that's even what it is idk) all I can tell u is it looks like something similar to red clay like gunk. I took it to a couple shops and they both say it's oil due to either a head gasket or possibly a cracked block. The thing is it's going to cost me a ton of money that I don't have. So my question is David, can i drain/flush the entire thing, replace with fresh coolant and add head gasket/ block sealer? I'm not leaking or losing any fluids that I can see, but obviously something is going on with my coolant reservoir looking like it's mixed with red/ brown clay? Id really appreciate any help I can get if possible, thanks.
@@davidhunter184 your gonna have to drain flush and fill your coolant. Have that head gasket replaced change coolant change engine oil. If problem persist most likely you have a craked block. Only way to get a cracked block is if you over heated it.
@@rhurtadorh32 ok, thanks I'm going to get right on it, hopefully it won't cost too much lol. I heard it was very expensive to even changing the gasket. I'll check around and see what these other shops say, I know I can't afford it at the dealership. Again, thanks for your help.
Thank you! My current situation. Think my bleeder may be stripped.
Great video! Have you possibly made one or are planning on recording a 5.7 challenger water pump replacement? That seems to be fairly common and would probably help out a lot of shade tree mechanics hemi owners like me
I have to say that your videos are possibly the best "how to" video's that I have ever watched. Your are clear, concise and knowledgeable. Thank you for taking the time to help us all out. It is appreciated.
David, another great and helpful video! Just one thing, when applying the high temp thread sealer, it should always be one thread back on the item it’s being used on to prevent it from eventually traveling around in the coolant. Again, great video and info, you guys are the best! Thank you.
How about removing the 5.7 Hemi stubborn radiator petcock video. Tx as you are through
Good info
Thanks Kurt! Dont forget to subscribe
So first off great video I recently changed my coolant temperature sensor because of a bad sensor causing overheating which fixed it also bleed the system thank you . But now I'm having a OIL TEMPERATURE PROBLEM MY 2006 DODGE CHARGER RT oil is running around 220 and when I run my AC it for whatever reason heats up even higher to as high as 238 I can't figure out what's going on I also recently changed the oil pressure sensor. Is it possible there's another bad sensor does the hemi have an oil temperature sensor? PLEASE HELP IM SCARED I MIGHT LOOSE MY ENGINE DO TO OIL OVERHEATING BUT NOT SURE anyway thanks so much for the awesome content its been a huge help in diagnosing some of my problems.
Hello can u make a tutorial video on how to change the water pump on those challenger engines
GREAT VIDEO THANKS!
I have a 2013 dodge Durango how will I know if the radiator is blocked and how to unblock it?
Thanks for showing how you removed the bleeder valve. When draining how do you get all the coolant from the engine block? I located the drain plugs on the block and was able to remove the plug on the driver side but no luck on the passenger side (worth mentioning I ended up disconnecting the negative battery cable due to spark on the passenger side)
What was your end results? My 2011 RT 5.7 has been running way hot, so with a thermostat replacement, I also decided to do a full flush and fill. I've only been able to get two gallons in and two out during each of the five times I've performed a flush. The two block plugs, with everything in the way are next to impossible to remove without possibly damaging the bolt heads. That still leaves roughly half of the diluted coolant and cleaning agent in the block and system. We're you able to maybe remove the heater core hoses from the block area to be able to get the rest of the old coolant and cleaner out prior to replacing the nearly 4 gallons of 50/50 coolant? Thanks!!
My 2003 2500 5.7l hemi has a problem with coolant reservoir...kjust changed radiator and the reservoir has air coming out the lower neck of the filler below the radiator cap...It looks like you can screw out the reservoir neck...is that true or does my system need bleeding or is my reservoir broken and needs replacement
My tag line for my channel (although I rarely use it) is: "With options you always have tomorrow". I love options and you just added one. Thanks Dave.
No.....thank you Wyatt for the continued support!
Great to meet you in person! Awesome video brother!
Many thanks man! Trying to catch up on emails, sorry for the delay. It was great to meet you as well. Again....thanks for stopping by and for commenting!
Holy cow! An expertly done, professionally presented video without any product bashing.
I just replaced my radiator, and filled my coolant. Will this work with a full reservoir, or will I have to dump my precious coolant?
Would the bleeder plug work after doing a headgasket replacement
Sure will. If you don’t have one or can’t get it out you can remove the temp sensor as will. Did a video on that
Sure will. If you don’t have one or can’t get it out you can remove the temp sensor as will. Did a video on that
If my hemi has a bleeding valve, is burping the system still necessary? Or is using just the bleeding valve good enough to get all the air out? Also, what if the valve is stripped? Thank you
I remember back with my 82 024 with the 2.2 and the 90 shadow with the 2.5 I(recommended by the dodge club) replaced the bleed plug in the thermostat housing with nipple, elbow and pet cock or small valve, they also recommended drilling a small hole in the base of the thermostat itself, both worked wonders when changing fluid and bleeding air and living here in canada never affected the heat :)
I have heard a few people drilling the thermostat.....havent done it myself. I can see where it can help. Thanks for watching!
By any chance do you know the location of coolant temperature sensor on a 5.7 dodge magnum
I just replaced the upper radiator hose on my 5.7 hemi charger filled my pressure tank can I run the car to fill up the radiator itself or do I need to bleed the system
Personally I would bleed it. Then seal it up be run it until the thermostat opens. Cool off and recheck the level
So replacing a cracked radiator doesn't require bleeding??
I would recommend it would "always" be better to bleed air from the sensor hole than the plug simply because you are the most gauranteed the sensor can be removed and reinstalled trouble free than the plug. More likely the metal plug will be siezed or pull the threads out with it than any issue that may be encountered with the plastic sensor. The plastic sensor can be MUCH easier replaced with a new one if you broke it or rounded off the nut faces on it than removing/replacing the metal plug if you round out the wrench faces or break off an allen ball tip in it or strip off some threads.
Jack up the vehicle so that the temp sensor is even higher. It will help.
This dude imakes the best detailed videos I've seen yet
I couldn't remove the bleed plug in my 05 Hemi Magnum. I used one of those large funnels that attach to the overflow bottle and extended it up high. As the engine ran, it gurgled and gurgled and filled the system. It never overheated at all according to the gauge and the next day, the coolant was down just a little in the bottle. If i could get the plug out I would install a small valve that a tube could be attached to and avoid getting coolant on my belt.
David always love the videos you do on Hemi engines as I have a 07 300c 5.7 and had to change the water pump 4 times. They seem to leak behind the pump by the little gap next to Alt. 4th time is the charm it seems to work now no leaks I just added a little more silicone in that area. Keep up the good work David and thanks for showing where that bleeder plug is most auto part shops don’t know.
Thanks Robert. I need to eventually do a video on the waterpump on a Hemi....mine is seaping and covered under the extended warranty. Just have to find the time. Thanks for watching the videos and for following the channel.
Having found tooooo many plugs rounded by some idiot, I would have gone to the easy sending unit first any way.
The only real issue with the plastic is that I have seen the threads come off and then your stuck getting a sensor. Seems like you run into issues either way lol. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I hope you make some decent coin doing the videos. Cause you deserve it. They are great. Thanks for all the helpful info presented in a straight forward way. Helped me a lot
David, GM... Great video and great information on bleeding the coolant system. I have the 6.4 Liter, 2012 Challenger SRT8. Your video was also well put together and professional.
Awesome ride you got there! Thanks for the great feedback and kind words. Make sure to enjoy the weekend!
@@MotorCityMechanic , Thanks David...You have a great weekend.
Excellent video! It has been a long time I haven't seen such a clear explanation! Quick question, please: can you tell me the normal running temperature for a Chrysler 300c 2011 in a 90 - 100 degree Florida area?
Oceanpointe Distributors Corp many thanks for the kind words. The normal temp range is half way on the gauge. Which is around 210ish give or take.. thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
I definitely learned something, thanks a lot!
Your welcome!
It's nice that there is a bleeder port to use. I recently had an overheating issue with my 5.7 Hemi Jeep. Replaced the thermostat and housing but that didn't do anything. Then it blew the upper radiator hose. So, I decided it was time to replace the stock water pump. Using your information, I was able to successfully bleed the system.
More video on HEMI please! I enjoy your video, well explained, understood, soft and clear.
George all the way from Namibia
Just want to say thank you very much for the video have been struggling with my 06 SRT8 for a couple of days I executed Plan B everything worked out perfectly once again thank you for your video👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you were able to get it handled and that the video helped. Thanks for watching and for being a loyal subscriber.
This channel is INSANE!!!
1. QUICK
2. STEP-by-STEP
3. CLEAR VIDEO
4. EXTREMELY KNOWLEDGEABLE MECHANIC
How is it that RUclips is just reccomending this channel 4 years later???.
New Subscriber!!!
Hey David, good info for a Hemi owner! Quick question...in the 08 300C, with 112K miles, should I replace the plugs with Platinum or stick with copper?
SUPER knowledgeable mechanic who really KNOWS what he's talking about and explains it in a user-friendly way that most anyone can easily understand! THANKS for taking the time to help the rest of us out Sir!
Great videos man. Clear, to the point and getting the job done ! Thanks !
Well most thermostats have a little tiny micro hole in that thermostat?
Must have the “jiggle valve” but doesn’t seem to allow enough air thru or at least not fast enough
Great vid. The way the bleeders are secured with some industrial strength thread seal seems make them quite hard to get out. Meanwhile, our 2006 WK 5.7 does not have the temp sensor. Seems a bit of a poor design to me.
Thank youuu sirrrr this video was very very helpful the bleeder screw was not torn up but it had seized in the motor so I pulled the temp sensor, mannnn you’re the #GOAT 🐐🐐🐐 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💯💯💯✅✅✅
What a great follow up video! As a guy that has replaced 4 water pumps (post warranty) any video from you about the Hemi is loved. I have a question, after the last water pump change I noticed my upper hose was collapsing after motor cooled down. I replaced the hose (it was time anyway) but the new one is also collapsing. New Radiator cap in order?
Could be a bad cap.....I havent seen that issue in a long time. Thats where I could start first for sure. Thanks for watching!
You make Great detailed videos! Thanks from DD TEAM RC !
Hello can u tell me the Torque spec for the belt tensioner pully on a 2009 Dodge Challenger ? The bolt size is 16
Thanks, David. Good option to have, that bleeding through the temp sensor opening. Just did a water pump job on a 2012 Durango R/T with the 5.7 Hemi. I ran out of Teflon tape so just installed the temp sensor with none. Will go back later with the thread sealant (and also get more Teflon tape). I'm also getting an inch-pounds torque wrench, because mine does 10-150 ft.-lbs. Also, I subscribed because you're Chrysler-specific. Thanks again.
I drill a hole in the thermostat ,unless it has a bleeder built-in that seems to get rid of any air pocket in the vehicle.
I have heard of a few doing that. I have to wonder if it would set a thermostat rationality code however.....then again a small hole might not affect it that much temp wise when warming up. As long as you have a new seal or going back with a new t-stat and doing it then sounds fine to me. Thanks for watching and especially for the comment.
MotorCity Mechanic
Ive done it on many new vehicles, only a tiny hole is needed, like at most, 1/16-1/8”
Just need to make sure the hole is near the top
I just replaced the radiator should i fill up radiator with coolent before starting the bleeding process?
This step really helped out Thanks A Lot! In my case it was a clogged radiator on a Ram 1500 5.7. It slowly built up heat up to 230 driving,but never boiled over. It took a long time to cool down.
I got a 2012 ram w 5.7 hemi.. and it overheats when at idle or a driveway for a long time..at that point my ac stops working.. it goes up half way between normal and the 3/4 temp mark..so basically about 5/8 or so of the gauge..woul that be an air pocket issue or fan...changed coolant
There shouldnt be an air pocket unless there was a leak or when you change the coolant. If thats the issue when you changed it then it shouldnt have been over heating before...if it was then there is another issue. I would recommend having it checked further. Could be numerous items....fan, clogged radiator....etc. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
I have this same issue and I also hear the coolant gushing behind my glove box. But the coolant level is always high in the radiator. Gonna try to bleed it in the morn.
I've watched every video I could find on how to bleed the air from the system and I'm still having difficulties. I have a 2011 300c with the 5.7 hemi. I changed the waterpump thermostat, bled the air via the bleeder screw, but for some reason it's not circulating the heat is working and it doesn't overheat at idle with the heat on but as soon as I turn off the heat the temp starts going up. I'm stuck and running out of money and ideas plz any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
You may have a clogged radiator......I recommend when its hot....try to grab both radiator hoses to see if any big difference in temperature.....with the engine not running of course so you dont get hurt. Also make sure that the fan or fans is working correctly as well at the radiator
@@MotorCityMechanic I changed the radiator, the water pump and thermostat and still overheating and coolant boiling at the reservoir. I turned the heat on inside and it blows cold.
Drywall Experts Having the same issue on my 2013 Dodge Charger RT. Did you ever find the solution?
@@randyu8688 Let me guess, you finally found it was air still? I had a 300 that I kept having to bleed for several days before it was drivable. My theory is the air gets trapped in the heater core because like you it had no heat but idk that? I just make sure to turn heater on high for a bit before bleeding them since then. Some are just a real bi!@# to get bled out.
@@harryballz6358 it may have been that but I went ahead and took the dash out. I have a center console but it was really easy. I replaced the evaporator and the heater core. And it's back to normal.
I stripped that bolt do you have a part number for it?
Good video. Just did my pump using the bleeder valve, and the coolant just went down a couple of times, but then I just topped it off, and it's all good!
Great video David, Thanks for being informative and clean (mouthed) makes all the difference in the world. God bless
Question I have a 2010 Dodge Challenger R/T I never had problems with my car over heating But recently I changed my Radiator bought it from American Muscle As well replaced A/C condensor now my car is over heating. I also changed my thermostat and over heating continued then replaced radiator fan from Orielys. And.. still over heating.
This is what worked for me yesterday !!!, thanks for the tip!
Your welcome and glad that the video helped.
That's awesome thanks so much appreciate your skill and knowledge
Hey David, Great teacher you are and great videos to. Question: I have a '19 Bighorn with a 5.7l and jsut got t a year ago but am now having issues with the electric fans ramping up but the water temp seems ok according to the guage. I changed out the electronic fans thinking they were going bad. The truck has 131,000 miles on it. New fans are doing the same thing ramping up like its running hot. I then checked the fluid levels and noticed the reservoir is empty and the dipstick has brown sediment on the lower part of it. Watching your video, you show the bleeder screw and how to purge the air out... Mine has A tube going from the bleeder screw to the block. Does this mean its self bleeding??? I'm ready to flush the system and I am wondering now that I saw this vid of yours on this. BTW I think the last owner or mechanic put the wrong antifreeze in it. Thanks for your vids and any help you can give is appreciated.
Hola...
Qué buen video, trabajas muy bien.
Me gustaría que trabajaras mi Dodge, motor Hemi.
Saludos desde Guatemala.
What if I'm just replacing thermostat without draining system. How do I bleed it since the system is already filled (minus the few ounces that will flow out when removing thermostat)?
Hey I have a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 hemi however I have neither the bleed screw or temp sensor on the top of my block any other potential bleeding methods?
Does anyone know when u replace the water pump does it need sealant on the gasket and also after replacement of the water pump do i need to bleed the system of any air
Waterpump requires a gasket/seal. It should come with one when purchased. The coolant system will need bleeding for sure. Thanks for asking and for watching. Make sure to subscribe.
MotorCity Mechanic thanks for your help I appreciate your videos
Question... 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi. I have 2 problems. 1 is the water pump that I am doing tonight and the other one is: is there an alternate to the hydraulic radiator fan? The one we have is making a bad bearing noise and I cant seem to find one on line making my only other source a salvage yard. Is there a way to switch it to a regular fan with a clutch like they have on the 2014 Ram with the Hemi? Any input you can give me would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you for your time.
Thank you. I was in a jam on side of the road and now back in the road with no problems.
My hemi when I parked and running a c the temp gauge starts to climb when I running it cools right down it’s super hot outside why is this happening?
Mark Drouin I would have it checked to make sure that the radiator fan or fans is working correctly first and then go from there. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe
I’ll check them thanks
Thank you brother that was very helpful I’m going to try that on my 2011 ram 1500
On my 2010 5.7 hemi, when I start the vehicle the fan comes on, i want to know is that normal. The fan doesn't move real fast but it stays on. This is after a new waterpump?, radiator and thermostat
ẞcenario #2 I believe it was where some dumb*** rounded the bleeder bolt out. The bigger dumb*** is me. That sensor was staring at me right in the face . Thanks
I need a help please. I did flush for my hemi 5.7 and thermostat changed. The car gets overheated after while. The coolant level is the same. When I open the bleeding screw no water comes out even id I top up water in the tank. Whats the problem here? Thanks
If the bleeder is frozen what's the best way to remove it, I don't have much room for large tools and it was said to be 1/4 L hex/torx but it won't fit, I've tried metric as well no luck and I don't want to grind out the inner plug so I stopped
I have a 5.7 2007 charger I remove the overflow bottle cap remove the bleeder screw filled with antifreeze and water nothing came out of bleeder screw, antifreeze runs out of the overflow tube what do you recommend!Or what may be the problem? The only other thing that I have is the thermostat housing, that other heater part with the plug on it that you disconnect I don't have that. If push come to shove can I do it just the old school way? Take the radiator cap off of the overflow bottle turn the heat on hot with low fan and let it run until no more bubbles and the reservoir I can't massage the upper hose because it has a spring in it. So I'm asking your opinion or what do you recommend?
Hello my brother has had two of you problem fix's video , he recently had the radiator replaced and water pump, then you video of the heater core supply hose with tee fix and now were having problem getting the coolant to circulate the way it should, ive been watching your coolant bleeding , in your opinion do you think that might be our problem now. the coolant is boiling in the coolant tank.... please advise back asap.
Hello, can U make a video, or just said how can i remove complete coolant from engine and cooler, i know only red pickock, but when i open it comes out only 2-3 liters, but i want to remove everything.
I have a 5.7 in my 2004 Ram. Just did a cooling system overhaul. No bleeder plug like on the set-up being shown here. Left the temp sensor out when filling up till it got there, then put the temp sensor in. You have to unbolt the A/C pump to get to it. Not hard when doing the water pump.
Yeah the trucks seem to always be a bit different. But as you found out….more then one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching
I have a 2005 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7 hemi should I have a thermostat housing gasket on it because I put one on it anyways
Thanks man this help me out so much u have no idea
If im trying to do this in a 2013 Dodge Durango with 5.7 Hemi engine still installed in the car. How do I remove the filter / air induction hood to get to the area of the engine you are showing here?
Many thanks for your detailed explanation! It helped me a lot to change the thermostat on my Chrysler 300C Hemi! 😊👍👌Best regards from Germany🙋
Great to hear!
Is this bleeding required to just Dodges or all, I’ve rebuilt motors , changed water pumps and mechanically inclined.
Each engine is different, some do have a bleeder while others don’t
💪🏾💯
I never had over heating problems till I began to change the parts.... 1 mechanic is telling my head gaskets are F#&@ed
I got a thermostat installed by garage on my 6.1 hemi and they used neither method. They ran it with the cap off several times i think
Great video in Detail! Thanks much brotha...You should make more videos on 5.7L HEMIS we need your help brotha! Lol...Hope to see more videos...Thanks
Thanks Rafael. I will certainly keep that in mind. I appreciate the comment and for you watching the video. Make sure to subscribe if you havent already.
Awsome idea. I have a 2011 ram 5.7 hemi with a seized bleeder valve so I'm going to see if this tip works for me. I'm subscribing!
Many thanks Ryan. I hope this helps you and I appreciate you watching
Did it?
It sure did. Bleeder valve was seized and eventually stripping. This helped get the air out. Great idea.
@@ryanv7195 Damn sure did work 💪🏽
David if I were to take it to him mechanic and tell him that it needed to be believed the water needed to be bleeded because my water pump broke would they know what to do just by telling them that I know that's what's wrong because all the other parts have already ready when replaced except that part and how much would it cost me
I have a 2010 hemi 5.7 that can't get to stop running hot I have changed the head gaskets blow out the water lines bleed it but still runs hot can u help me please
David I just added a water pump cuz it broke I have already added where you took the two big screws out and I added just the lid just to make sure they did tell me that the water probably needed to be pumped out because it might have bubbles in it what is the cost more or less