Why not just remove the entire drag bar and measure end to end, then measure with the new tie rod end in? Its just removing 1 more nut and you will be exact regardless of parts matching perfectly.
For sure! What could possibly go wrong with Harbor Freight jacks? (less concern than the stands HAH) Honestly - the jack has been rock solid, and if it slipped, it would be a new rotor.. Let's forgot about the time the driveline was removed to replace the carrier bearing and the wheel chock got removed by mistake..
I used the paint mark on the tie rod as my starting point. I did make a slight adjustment, but seeing as it was going in for an alignment, I was not concerned with 100% accuracy.
yep I gotta do these on both sides, plus the new damper and possibly even one more on the upper there right below your lower :) on that passenger side it's going to be SO MUCH FUN OH BOY. The labor you saved from the shop though it makes it worth it :) thanks for the vid
I certainly did not experience it in my truck, but between the tie rods or any of the steering components being worn beyond adjustment, it can certainly contribute to it.
HAH! Thanks for watching. It took me a bit to find it too, ES80755 was my part number, same across multiple manufacturer names. It seems my F350 is elusive for many parts to find (for ex: the MasterPro bearing number matches the National & Timken numbers, and specs, but the latter two show as not compatible)
Hey Ryan - the tie rod end simply unscrews from the rod itself. Depending on your vehicle, you may have a retainer clamp as well to help keep it in place.
I did have some cupping on the front tires which could be a symptom, but also upon replacing my rotors/brakes, I noticed excessive slop in the tie rod end.
Usually outter edges of tires start wearing faster then rest of tire cause it throws off the Toe in/Toe Out . And u will start hearing a clunk when u hit certain bumps. Get under your truck with wheels straight and grab the center bar and try to turn it up and down. You'll feel the play!
Damn its crazy to see how much the salt from the roads rusts vehicles out. Thank God my F350 has been in Arizona and Southern Nevada its entire life and has very rarely been on salt roads!!
Our spent 5 years in the south, and then 5 years in Minnesota moving horses and stored in the winter. Came to us in 2017 with minimal rust, but it was my daily driver until mid 2019 when it was relegated back to moving our horses, and camper during warm seasons. Amazing how quickly things can progress. I plan on cleaning up the underside and hitting it with rust encapsulator to at least slow down what has started.
I was always told to count the number of turns when unscrewing a tie rod end and count the turns back on. Marking them is a good idea too.
Yup, I did both, hence the paint. If i recall, the new part was a little different in length, so I had to adjust a bit.
Measure tires edge to edge and do one at a time , re set with a tape measure, or measure the rotors the front and rear side of rotors
Why not just remove the entire drag bar and measure end to end, then measure with the new tie rod end in? Its just removing 1 more nut and you will be exact regardless of parts matching perfectly.
That was a scary sight that you had no jack stand supporting your front end… that’s a lot of trust you’re putting on that jack.
For sure! What could possibly go wrong with Harbor Freight jacks? (less concern than the stands HAH) Honestly - the jack has been rock solid, and if it slipped, it would be a new rotor.. Let's forgot about the time the driveline was removed to replace the carrier bearing and the wheel chock got removed by mistake..
I sat here cringing the entire video watching him bent over under that truck with no jack stands.
Thanks for the visual. Should be an easy replacement this weekend. Any idea of the required torque on that nut?
Think I found it. 85 ftlbs
Hope it goes well!
I'm a little confused as to the painting & measuring because it looked like you just screwed/unscrewed the tie rod end to make it line up?
I used the paint mark on the tie rod as my starting point. I did make a slight adjustment, but seeing as it was going in for an alignment, I was not concerned with 100% accuracy.
Cant believe your not using a jack stand
I like to live dangerously here, and for other tasks, I certainly do use them.
It's okay, he's trusting his life to a harbor freight jack
@@petebert I've done dumber things in my life :)
imurtroll, I know he means well but it's why I cannot subscribe.
@Silver Grizzly in all reality. I'm not working under the car, so if the jack failed the worst that happens is the rotor gets a knock
yep I gotta do these on both sides, plus the new damper and possibly even one more on the upper there right below your lower :) on that passenger side it's going to be SO MUCH FUN OH BOY. The labor you saved from the shop though it makes it worth it :) thanks for the vid
Well, just don't be like me, and use a jack stand! :) Safety third!
@@DachsAutos :) I have those not worried. It's a good thing to know your vehicle and maintain it.
Thank you. Great video
Glad you liked it!
Great video and very informative! Thank you! Could one of these tie rods be the cause of a death wobble?
I certainly did not experience it in my truck, but between the tie rods or any of the steering components being worn beyond adjustment, it can certainly contribute to it.
usually the DW is result of worn steering damper, and also a worn track bar ball joint.
Awesome job thanks 😊
Thanks, and thanks for watching!
Just curious why you wouldnt replace the tie rod end from your drag link as well?
Im currently in the middle of a complete front end rebuild.
At the time it was not needed, and with a recent alignment after this work, no other parts were found to be worn.
Is that a inner or outer tie rod? What is the proper name to order it?
lower outer passenger tie rod end
I only know cause I just bought both outer lower and passenger upper😂 hence why I’m watching the video😂
I hope he’s not doing this without jack stand supports ?
HAH! Thanks for watching. It took me a bit to find it too, ES80755 was my part number, same across multiple manufacturer names. It seems my F350 is elusive for many parts to find (for ex: the MasterPro bearing number matches the National & Timken numbers, and specs, but the latter two show as not compatible)
As much as I appreciate you making this video, you didn't show how to remove the tie rod end. Thanks?
Hey Ryan - the tie rod end simply unscrews from the rod itself. Depending on your vehicle, you may have a retainer clamp as well to help keep it in place.
What were the symptoms that made you realize you needed new ones?
I did have some cupping on the front tires which could be a symptom, but also upon replacing my rotors/brakes, I noticed excessive slop in the tie rod end.
Usually outter edges of tires start wearing faster then rest of tire cause it throws off the Toe in/Toe Out . And u will start hearing a clunk when u hit certain bumps. Get under your truck with wheels straight and grab the center bar and try to turn it up and down. You'll feel the play!
We dont need no stinkin torque wrench! 😂
Nah, never! Just an extra ugga-dugga. It was torqued when I had the front-end aligned, so it's all good.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
New tires? Those are fine, right to the back, rears go to front. The tq from the diesel will square those off in a month specially towing
Not feasible to rotate, as this is a dually and you'd have to remount the tires each time on the other rims.
Damn its crazy to see how much the salt from the roads rusts vehicles out. Thank God my F350 has been in Arizona and Southern Nevada its entire life and has very rarely been on salt roads!!
Our spent 5 years in the south, and then 5 years in Minnesota moving horses and stored in the winter. Came to us in 2017 with minimal rust, but it was my daily driver until mid 2019 when it was relegated back to moving our horses, and camper during warm seasons. Amazing how quickly things can progress. I plan on cleaning up the underside and hitting it with rust encapsulator to at least slow down what has started.
vernier caliper i believe its called
Proper torque is 85 ft/lb.
U didn't replace with a greasable one 🤦♂️
Nothing available at the time that wasn't a wait...
Why not replace all the tie rods while you have it taken apart....??
The tie rods themselves were just fine if you're simply referring to the big hunk of metal.. No need to spend money on parts that are not bad.
Don’t learn this ways