Laying and Weathering Track at Chadwick Model Railway | 153.
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2022
- Blending concrete sleeper track to wooden sleeper points was a real challenge, perhaps with limited success! Here's how it went Chadwick Model Railway.
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Another fascinating video. I particularly liked the drone footage and once those darn trains were out of shot we could really see the permanent way we were looking for. Interesting how the real world has such a variety of colours.
Yes Lee, but strangely some colours we wouldn’t necessarily use on our models. Regards Charlie.
I never thought watching paint dry would be so interesting, thanks Charlie another great video.
What an amusing comment, I never looked at it that way. Regards Charlie
Another proper job Chas , informative too thos different shades
Thanks John, glad you enjoyed it mate.
Very nice like your latest video.Thanks David.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Charlie thanks very much for replying to my comment. It's nice to see other people's work to get idea to improve my Channel. Take Care & Stay Safe.
Watching today, very interesting and much appreciated, from an N gauge modeller who is currently ballasting track!
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Roger. Regards Charlie
So very helpful. I'll be using n-gauge Kato Unitrack, because all my Dutch rolling stock runs on it reliably and, just as important, I won't be able to use or access the underside of the shelf the railroad will be built on. Unitrack has bed, ballast, sleepers and rails all combined in one which doesn't give me a lot of opportunities, but I still plan on weathering it using some of the techniques you showed - after I practice. A lot of practice. Thank you!
That’s great news MMS. I’m so pleased that you find my videos. Useful. Regards, Charlie
Wooden sleeper = Raw umber, leave to dry and apply a very thin wash of white acrylic. This white wash will highlight low areas of the grain.
Concrete sleeper = vallejo model air concrete, brush that on.
Rails I use vallejo model air in metallic rust.
When all that is done then ballast the lot in buff and grey blend randomly.
Weathering is done with watered down burnt umber with a dash of black mixed in which can be mixed to various shades. Mist the ballast with IPA and pipette the colours into the ballast. It'll soak down like it does in the real world. A slightly thicker mix of a darker brown can be added with the pipette along the railsides to takeaway that rust zing.
That's how I've tackled mine on the Exeter SD layout so far.
An excellent comment with sound advice.
Much appreciated, regards Charlie.
Fantastic video Charlie 👍👍💯 great techniques thanks for sharing a great video 👍
Thanks Dylan, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I get lots of great tips from you Charlie 👍💯 keep up the good work buddy 👍
Thank you for another great video.👍
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Another amazing, informative, video, thanks Charlie, a master at work
Thanks Simon, you’re too kind mate. Regards Charlie
Evening charlie. Great video as always. Just about to lay some new peco concrete track found this really helpful. Will definitely use some of these techniques.
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie
Great video, Charlie. Much food for thought.
Thanks Paul I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Such attention to detail is amazing.
Thanks mate, you’re too kind. Regards Charlie
Always good mate
Thanks
Howard
Thanks Howard, regards Charlie.
This never gets old, Charlie. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks Martyn, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Wonderful video
Thanks Mels, regards Charlie
Nice vid. Informative, dare I say educational, and entertaining.
That’s very kind of you to say so Donald. Regards Charlie
Excellent video Charlie...very informative 👍
Thanks Graham, and good luck with your layout mate. Regards Charlie
Very neat job Charlie 👍
Thanks Martin , regards Charlie
Beutiful scenery work
Thanks Nolan, regards Charlie
lovely stuff. starting my first railway. my first baseboard just been assembled. cheers for all the videos and tips. greatly appreciated.
I’m so pleased that you find the channel useful Sean.
Great video Charlie. Always interesting to see the various ways of getting the job done. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
Thanks Roy, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.Regards Charlie
Great Video once again Charlie. Good to see you at the Exhihibition the weekend. Thanks for visiting
It’s such a nice change to get out and meet fellow modellers. Take care mate, regards Charlie
You are one perfectionist Charlie keep it up another great video 👍
Thanks Jeff, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Good vid, very realistic . I have purchased a set of multiple colour acrylic art pens, I use them on detailing on loco's and rolling stock, grate for picking out details on all sort of things easier than paint brushes no blobs, constant flow. Stay safe Charlie. Thanks
A useful tip Phil, many thanks.
Glad to help. Hope it works ok for you. Ive use them on things like door hinges handles rails any thing that a brush is a bit of a hit and miss affair.
A very good video again Charlie. You didn give some good ideas for colouring rails, very effective. Thank you from Canada.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Alan. Regards Charlie
Well done again Charlie
Thanks Barry, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, yet another informative video. It's good to see different techniques for track weathering, great results. Regards, David.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards Charlie.
Well, "look at that!" ... a Super job!!!
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Kevin.
Really nice outcome, Charlie. Be well
Thanks Frank, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Great watch again Charlie has always. Take care
Thanks buddy I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate, regards
Glad you found the path to the station, it was good to meet you and I was pleased to find that path was mud less when I used it myself later on. Another inspiring video which reminds me of the importance of modelling what you see rather than what you remember when it comes to the colours. A site visit always earths you back to reality and you can never take too many photos, best Simon.
Thanks Simon, it was great to meet up the other day. I must get back over the top of there with my drone when the weather improves. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, a great video to go along with all the others. You have produced a great catalog of reference material to go to. Love the the drone videos, almost forgot to look at the track and not the A4…. Thankyou for time you spend off camera and infront on camera and putting these all together. All best again Marc
What a heartwarming comment Marc. Many thanks, regards Charlie
Thoroughly enjoyed that vlog Charlie very interesting 😂😂😂😂❤️
Thanks Robert, regards Charlie.
Well Charlie, you defiantly covered the subject of track railly great... in paint and ballast, LOL. Nice outside footage along the real way lines from above. Showing off the different tones and colours with the track in various states of new and decaying surfaces.
I’m so pleased enjoyed it John. Regards Charlie
Awesome 😎👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers Mr S.
Great video Charlie as always. Track weathering is somthing which I need to go into much more. Its easy to think its a case of spraying it with sleeper grime and its job done. Goes to show how much more to it there is.
Also loved the A4 being involved great locos.
Thanks Matt, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting along with the drone footage. Regards Charlie
Thank you so much I'm a long term model railway admirer but new builder, thanks to you. Your videos are so easy to follow and entertaining. Xx
I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting Alexis. Regards, Charlie
That was great Tony. I love the dry brushing. I must try it. Best wishes, Toulouse, but in Bouzigues.
Thanks Kevin, regards Charlie
I like the effect you produced. I expect that once the ballast has been weathered it would all blend in even better.
Thanks David, I’m pleased that you found it interesting.
Very well explained Charlie. Great to see A4 Union of South Africa in action. A close friend of mine was a driver when she was based in Fife many years ago and got me a ride on the footplate great days.
Wow, a treasured memory David.
Hi Charlie, excellent as always I think I will give it a go! Thank you for this your instructional videos are always good for us beginners.
Thanks Richard, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Nice video Charlie that rail painter looks like a great little device certainly saves time when painting the sides of your rails with a paint brush and paint! - Nicholas.
It does seem quite useful, but I’ve no idea how long it will last. Regards Charlie
I nearly didn't watch this video, but really pleased I did. The drone footage certainly provided a great perspective of the different colours of the track, ballast and ground colouring adjacent to the railway. I found this video particularly instructional with some great ideas to emulate real trackwork.
Thanks for your time and efforts, really appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed it Kevin, regards Charlie
Charlie, Thank you for some sage advice.
Painting (Colouring) tracks, and rails is a very personal choice, and can send ou into a bit ofa headspin on what to do.
I loved your techniques, and reaseach, seeing a real track certainly helps to visualize what you want to do.
Cheers, and stay safe. Michael
Many thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it along with the drone footage. Regards Charlie
good vid on your channel keep up the good vid work looks good thanks lee
Glad you enjoyed it Lee. Regards Charlie
Once Again a Great Video very informative. Don't apologise for showing the Class 66 and the A4 they added to the Beautiful Drone footage you displayed. It was very interesting to see various sections of track from above an option we rarely see in the real world but we do see it like that on our own Layouts os it gives us a view to recreate.
Keep up the Great Work
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the drone footage.
Regards Charlie.
Fascinating as always Charlie. Just released a video on painting and ballasting my N gauge track - both concrete and wooden sleeper track. No air brush in sight ! Cheers Euan
That’s great news Euan, I hope you get a good result. Regards Charlie
Nice finish Charlie, I wish I was 50 yrs younger, I would be joining you.
Gosh, if I was 50 years younger I’d be 13! If only, regards Charlie
interesting aspect . the sleeper colours do change with age and the season, liked the A4 video segment too
Thanks John, the research was very interesting.
Great video Charlie, have got this dilemma on the practice board, so this has been really helpful. Thanks for the nod to the N gauge compromise, mind you, it'll be less paint used..............it's not much of a plus to cling too, but every cloud! lol
Good luck mate.
With N, so much is a struggle.
Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie.
Thanks again buddy for another great vlog.
Just completed my baseboards so the happy times start now😁.
Although you were vlogging on your track, I was also looking at the way you put cork down for your points. So you you don't need to cut point shapes just fill in the gaps between track.👍
Drone footage was great, should have given us a bit more on the A4😉.
Keep it up mucker. Learning a lot from your tutorials and be using a lot of them. (Scenics not dcc).
Keep safe Charlie.
Pete and Su.
Hi Pete and Sue, I’m so pleased that you both enjoyed it.
Take care guys, regards Charlie
Nice one Charlie. Just to let you know I bought one of those 8 pin socket for a D.M.U. I had hot wired some time ago and followed you instructions. and i am very pleased with it it saves a lot of bother if you have to change the chip. thank you. Top man .
That’s great news Tony.
Regards Charlie.
Copydex is a few weeks before my time, remembering my own childhood is best done with a whiff of Matey Bubble Bath (if they still make it).
Such simpler times Chris. Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie for this video. Lots of good ideas. My own layout is so small (1 x 6 feet, two turnouts) that I decided to hand paint all the rail and ties, using acrylic craft paints. I figured that having track sections showing different levels of age and maintenance would help compensate for the smalll size. I also made a few places where new ties had been inserted and ballasted where the track was supposed to be old. On the whole I think it worked, and I'm satisfied with the results. It was fun to experiment with different color mixtures to get the shades I wanted. However, if I'd known how tedious and time-consuming the painting would become, I would have done otherwise, say use those nifty paint markers for the rail. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Thank you Andrew, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate. Stay safe over there, regards Charlie
Great tutorial Charlie. My layout is all wooden sleeper and I like the effect with the two paints. In fact I think you got just as good an effect with a little too much white and wiping it back off. I've been swithering about whether to paint before or after ballasting and you've very kindly made my mind up for me! I was also pleasantly surprised at the price of the Woodland Scenics rail pen - probably safer for me than a shooglie brush! Cheers
Thanks Davie, I’m so pleased you found it useful mate.
I always enjoy your videos Charlie as in my opinion you have a gift for clear easy to understand communication even with complex subjects. Imagine my surprise when watching McKinley model railways a train journey through Hades when in the middle of Hades someone looking suspiciously like you made a fleeting appearance, even prompted me to rewind to check it wasn't my imagination. Spooky
Hi Paul, I have done the filming there for the last few years.
Great video Charlie ! I’ve literally just managed to assemble my baseboards. 15ft by 7ft . First model railway build and it’s going to European . I think your videos are going to be extremely helpful to me !! Many thanks !
I’m so pleased that you find the channel useful Andy.
On my N gauge layout , I use the wash , and wipe and the pen method as you have done there .. this with kato track .. looks very good
A sound technique mate.
« So having decided of mid summer, what does it got to do with tracks » well in winter they are all deep in bloody snow with only the flange cleared!! Nice work, greetings from Canada!
Well clearly not the weather here Cedric. But what a beautiful country you live in.
Loved it Charlie, I agree that no colour is wrong, apart from anything that is solid, as long as it is patchy it will always look better than the original.
Thanks Alan, it’s great to have you onboard.
Many thanks Charlie - good timing as im getting near to this stage of the layout.The little wheelie gismo rail painter that you used previously seems to be no longer available so have resorted to the same rail painter you used. thanks again!
It does seem to work quite well.
@@ChadwickModelRailway one other thing springs to mind after the weathering/painting of track - is to clean off the tops of the rails for electrical contact, obviously but not sure if it was mentioned in the video. 🤔
A useful reference tool is Google Earth, zoom in and look at the amazing variety of colours especially near stations news goods yards.
Yes, a good point Paul, but it is always useful to get right down and dirty.
That was a good video. You got the starkness between creosote ties and concrete ties knocked down very well.
I am modeling narrow gauge in an era from 1900 to 1912 in SE Arizona, that has it own issues for the Peco O-16.5 track ties. In my time period the railroad used Mesquite trees to make their ties and without Creosote. Mesquite wood is reddish when cut. Those ties were laid out in the blazing hot Arizona desert sun. The sun bleaches the wood and adds a silvering to the color to the tops of the ties. Then you have the tan to orange natural sand from the surrounding environment. Having lived in Arizona I can tell you that there are the occasional dust storms and dust devils that coats everything. Plus the railway I model was a copper mining railway that hauled coal up the mountain to the smelters. Also, it was all steam powered so you had the oil spills from the lubrication of the rods and clean sand dropped from the loco for traction. Of course all that is gone now. However, when I look at the B&W photos of the time period there is another railroad made feature present. The ballast is humped between the rails so that the ties between the rails are not visible. Only the full ends of the ties stick out of the ballast. What is normal ballasting today is not what was normal back then, at least not normal on some narrow gauge lines. Of course most narrow gauge lines did things on the cheap too.
I think your experiment is also going to depend on available lighting. Take your diorama track out into the bright sun and compare your results to the lighting in the train room. How would it look at an exhibition in a hall lighting? Another question, what about the track for predominately passenger service as compared to a track used to haul coal to a power plant? Could you say the track to the power plant is darker because of coal dust? Just some thoughts...
A fascinating comment DK a.
If only those photos from times gone by we were in colour. Regards Charlie
Interesting! For information, I watched a friends video of the train route from Hindlow to Crewe on his RUclips channel, ( Don Coffey )after watching your video and the drone footages you took. Your video, Charlie, was identical to the real thing! The run to Crewe showed both conctrete and wood sleepers on the journey, and the myriad of colours.
Thanks Ian, that’s reassuring.
Regards Charlie
Nice video Charlie well put together and interesting even for a N -Gauge modeler like myself. I glue my track down like you with Copydex, I then spray it with Railmatch Track Grime before ballasting with Woodland scenics fine ballast. Some n gauge modelers use chinchilla sand or something, never tried it myself, I am happy with the fine ballast, I find n gauge track a bit small to paint the sides of the rails but I do put dark patches in stations and the like where locomotives stop etc. Chris
If it works for you Chris, that is really all that matters. And please enjoy the video, regards Charlie
Great stuff Charlie! I've used copydex a lot since you reminded me that it was still available. One tip - if you drill a hole through a glued-down sleeper with a power tool, it tends to pick up the copydex layer and wind it round the drill bit, ripping it away as it does so. Using a pin vice (oscillating action) is a bit more controllable, as you can see it happening and stop. Cheers. Mike
You’re dead right Mike, I’ve done it numerous times I’m afraid. Regards Charlie
Very interesting and informative as usual, Charlie. Didn't recognise Cary station at first; looks like you've been up that (newish) footbridge - it wasn't open the last time I was there.
Yes Peter the new footbridge is open, and I believe the old one went last night! Regards Charlie
Can one still access the station via the footpath down the hill from Ansford?
Yes I walked down it a few days ago.
11:38 is the line before the tunnel that heads into Chester City :)
You’ve got it mate. Regards, Charlie
Well done Charlie. Always interesting to see the many ways the track color situation can be approached.
BTW points are called switches by railroads and only modelers call them turnouts on this side of the pond. Seems that one of the magazines started using the term because they found it being confused with electrical switches. And so it goes. Looking forward to your further adventures in 2 weeks
Hey great comment Joe, thank you. Switches, turn out, points! It’s all a mess. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ha ha. Yes it can be … particularly those double slips.
Great video. I model N gauge. The size makes for less need for fine detail so there is some trade off.
I agree Mark, but you do need good eyesight. Regards Charlie
10/10 that was great
Thanks Johnny, you’re too kind. Regards Charlie
Thank you for another enjoyable video. I use the Woodland Scenics rusty rail pen and the biggest problem for me is the two nibs provided wear out/get damaged before the paint. I also use the weathered tie to paint my wooden sleepers but that is a very slow process. I look forward to see your next video.
Thanks for the heads-up regarding the nibs Simon. I shall hang on before changing over. Regards Charlie.
I also wanted to say that I had tried the rusty rail pen and, as it bumps over the chairs, damages the nib as you go. Although two nibs are supplied, they are both finished before the paint - or I'm just too heavy handed, a definite possibility :).
Re the woodlands scenics marker pen.... I have used a ZIG posterman Brown PMA 50 waterproof marker from my local Art & Craft shop which is a fraction of the cost of the Woodlands product. I totally agree with what you said in an earlier video about the "rivet counters". This has always been an expensive hobby, and now is getting out of sight. Keep on with your down to earth video's.
Thanks Rob, and I shall certainly check out the pen. Regards Charlie
Darrenbury Central Hi v interestin g film makes me think. Im hoping to move house and will be trying out what your showing on my next layout. You have really inspired me. Great show . Tatty Bi
Thanks Darren, I’m so pleased that you found the content interesting. Good luck. Regards, Charlie
That was a great video and experiment Charlie. I'm assuming that is the one you were talking about in Frome. I like to use diluted paint and washes on my ballast to give variance and even include a bit of glued down weeds here and there. Great stuff mate, as always. Keep up the videos. If I could subscribe twice I would :)
Thanks Roger, yes this one took a lot of editing but came together in the end.
Regards Charlie
Great video, The rail colouring 'pen you use works well. I use two products from the firm EDDING. The Edding 1455 Creative has a wedge shaped fiber blade and the Edding 4040 Deco Marker sounds very similar to your 'pen' with a small ball rattle inside. Both give realistic oily rust colour to the rails and after track cleaning, if the rust colour has been removed from point check rails, a quick wipe with the pens restores the colour. .
Thanks Frank, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
Another excellent video. The Ammo MiG "Track Wash" is referring to tank tracks rather than railway tracks in case anyone needs to know that. When you are dry brushing I would use a brush with stiffer bristles as it makes the task considerably easier. As you found out a small amount of paint goes an extremely long way so the brush really does need to be almost devoid of paint.
Thanks Stephen, I had thought that the softer the brush the better (wrong again)!
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I think that is what I said!
Sorry Stephen I’ve corrected my earlier comment (it was late evening) 😜
Thanks Charlie for mentioning N gauge rail detailing. 2 suggestions: if you brush paint your rails don't use your best brushes, they will suffer! And 2, it's easier to paint the track before constructing scenery, because access for the gizmo or brush is bigger. Remember guys double track gives you 8 sides of rail to colour! Ooh...
Are useful comment mate. Regards Charlie
One option I've seen is to use a small drop of indian ink in the mix used to glue the ballast down, it provides a bit of contrast to the uniformity of most ballast mixes.
Now there’s an idea Neil. I’ve never thought of that. Regards Charlie
Hallo Charlie , I use a cap of beer bottles for a drop of paint . Great job . Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thanks Bert, could tip.
Great idea! Not for the paint but because it means you need to have a beer before you start!
Good video, Charlie. When you started dry (not dry at all) brushing the wooden sleepers with white, I was waiting for you to say proudly that you'd created concrete sleeper points out of wooden ones.😀 The drone footage and prototype photographs were interesting, and just go to show that we should aim for more variety, particularly (in UK terms) between the fast and slow lines on a four track section. The other interesting thing (which I have actually noticed when stood on station platforms and even on Google maps aerial views) is just how often sleepers are covered with ballast. I've sometimes wondered if it's the difference between hand-laid track and machine-laid track, which has had the Plasser & Theurer tamper levelling it all out, but you also see piles of ballast on the sleepers on newly laid mainline track - as indeed in one of your overhead shots, where as you commented, the ends of the sleepers were completely buried in new ballast. Presumably over time, it all settles down, and a few hundred trains running over must work like tapping the rails with the handle of a brush or whatever. But I think it goes to show that we don't need to worry about ballast on top of sleepers.
Yes Andrew, I believe you are right. The drone imagery shows what’s really going on out in the countryside. Regards Charlie
I used very dilute Tamiya flesh colour as per Boomer Dioramas tip for accenting some of the sleepers and it works fabulously. Turns out some of the colours you least expect can make a huge difference!
Thanks Ed, can you send a link to the video please. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway
Here you go Charlie. Thank you very much for all the hard work you put into your excellent videos.
Regards Ed
XF15 Flat flesh
ruclips.net/video/guPuzSYUU04/видео.html
Also worth a watch is his use of very dilute flat earth XF52
ruclips.net/video/mTVi7WyUW6I/видео.html
Hi Charlie, nice presentation, thankyou. There is no doudt the act of "rusting" the rails is one of the most convincing things to do to our track!
On another tack, I noticed some verdigris where you had soldered the jumper wire between the stock rail and point rail! After any soldering to rail or electrical joints and where (read always) I've used flux, after soldering, use a brush dipped in Metho to neutralise the acid in the flux. I know there is a good brand of flux that reckons its no clean flux, that in my experience does not stop the green crud from forming after.
Cheers
Thanks Peter, it was an old point I have changed my soldering technique since then, regards Charlie
I do appreciate your love of the label 'prototypical'. My layout would give purists a fit, but I'm the only one to make happy.
I’m glad you agree RJ, regards Charlie
Copydex is also frequently used to apply false eyelashes in the theatre to make sure they stay on during entire performances.
Wow, I never expected that response, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie a great video I really injoy it every interesting it will help me with my new layout I one are bedroom I am still in the planning stage at the moment the last train ran on my old loft layout last week sadly I am downsides at the moment to be work beginning some club members are take the old layout down for me goodbye for how clive in N Ireland
Down sizing is just horrible.
Good luck Clive.
Regards Charlie.
An Enjoyable video, Charlie.
A couple of points (no pun intended 😀) of interest. The term ‘turnout’ is not just a term used ‘across the pond’, it is the correct railway engineering term for what is colloquially known in the UK as ‘points’. Points refer to the two ‘Switch Rails’ which are, as we know, pointed at one end. So, the term ‘changing the points’ alludes to the moving of the switch rails. A turnout is a combination of what used to be called ‘Points and Crossings’, now known as ‘Switches and Crossings’ (S&C) in railway engineering circles. When I was a lad, at the model shop, you asked for a pair of left hand (or right hand) points, meaning a single turnout. Today a single turnout, in UK modelling circles, is referred to as a ‘Point’ although it has two of them. 😂
The term ‘frog’ is actually from across the pond, from the days of the old ‘Iron Horse’, so called because it looks like the frog at the base of a horse’s hoof. The UK railway engineering term is ‘Common Crossing’ and is the term used by those in the industry, who build and maintain the permanent way. In the UK, the term ‘frog’ is almost exclusively used in model railway circles.
As always, we all can choose to use whatever nomenclature suits our preference. Best, Jason.
Thanks Jason, what a fascinating comment. We are never to old to learn.
Regards Charlie.
Blimey, has it really been two weeks? Good golly, where does the time go? Thanks Charlie, thanks for another informative and enjoyable video; loved the drone footage of the A4. Be well mate. Simon 👍🏻
Thanks Simon, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
for the white drybrush there are two other colours worth a look, the first is "Off White", which is just a bit less sharp, the other is "Iraqi Sand" which is a more pale cream colour - also for drybrushing, wipe the paint off with kitchen roll, works way better.
for the oil washes, have you considered making your own? artists black and burnt umber paint, dirt cheap in a tube, small glass paint jar (the Tamiya jars are ideal) and white spirit - can get whatever consistency and colour you want - costs pennies. good over rails as well
Thanks for such an excellent comment Dale.
Much appreciated, regards Charlie.
"My lunch is now a distant memory" LOL, I was waiting to hear what you had ? but never mind it's still made me laugh.
Once again Charlie great video, it now helps me on my next part which is exactly that... laying the concrete sleeper track and trying to get that 1960s, 70s look from when the WCML track was replaced and I'll be replicating and midsummer scene, so from my days as a kid back in the 70's playing on my local track and not caring about the dangers of trains or electricity would sit by the trackside and watch the trains go by with great delight, class 310 emu's, class 86's, and not to mention freight trains, coal trains and car transporters a many, which all went to making the track that dirty brown colour that you were achieving in the video, thanks for the help mate, all the best.
P.S. I'll try that track pen it looks just the job ! & I'm having a class 310 made for me at the moment especially for the scene... memories hey !
Great comment Chris.
I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting, regards Charlie
I must confess to having said "Oh, screw it!" to my own track a few times!
Very apt Flyboy. Regards Charlie.
Brilliant, thanks Charlie. Just what I needed at this time as I’m about to embark on 10 days holiday to get my model railway into that sort of state - hopefully!
Your drone footage of Union of South Africa is superb. Well worth the video for that alone!
As an aside, Matt Dawson showed on Twitter how you could run non-coreless motor DC locos on DCC using a ‘zero zero’ programme code on a Digitrax controller. Is this something you have tried or could demonstrate please?
Hi Will, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. I have no idea regarding the non coreless motor option but I’ll certainly check it out.
Another great video. I have been watching your creation for many months now. I am more interested in the construction and scenic aspects rather than the details of the rolling stock (engine classes, etc). Watching your recent video I noticed on your viaduct board that by looking under, and beyond the viaduct all you see is a deep valley and the sky. It may be of use to you to put a mirror between the end of the valley and the backscene. This will artificially extend the view in an optical effect taking the valley further into the distance. By adding a panel from a bridge would also disguise the top of the mirror and create a bit of interest in the distance.
But wouldn’t you see the viaduct’s reflection David?
Yes. Oops you would still see the viaduct legs. Sorry, maybe not such a good idea as was thought. I have seen it done with streets and roads that lead off into nowhere (into the backscene) to give a really good effect. Love all your videos by the way.
Another great video Charlie. You hardly ever see how people go about colouring the trackwork. I mainly work with buildings and I never use pure white, I always put a little of the original colour in to keep the tone correct. And if you cut half the length of the brush off you will find it makes a better "dry brush". 👍
Great tip thanks, so stiff bristles are better than soft?
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes they are, and being shorter and stiffer they don't carry so much paint and "wipe dry" easier.👍
@@ChadwickModelRailway My "go to" is a flat #4
Thanks Warnz. I’ll get one and give it a go.
Charlie The Cess is the area either side of the railway immediately off the ballast shoulder. This usually provides a safe area for authorised workers to stand when trains approach
Dead right Gary. I hoped I’d explain that, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway it sounded as if the walkway alone was the cess. Often there is no walkway provided although You should InTheory walk in the cess or is not always the best place in reality. You should always look around every 5 seconds to check for trains and when one approaches stop walking and ensure you in a position of safety. One point to note is that you do not always hear trains coming when out on track
Some tips for drybrushing:
Get your hands on some cheap makeup brushes. Those will work much better for this kind of application!
Also keep wiping the brush until you have barely any paint leaving the bristles. It's much easier to add more paint than remove what's already there! 😉
Thanks for another great video 👍
Thanks Matius, soft or stiff bristles?
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'd say stiff bristles are better as some other commenters have pointed out!
Thanks Matius, much appreciated.
Be careful with the drone sir. Not allowed above or within 50m of network rail last time I checked, could end up in the naughty boy corner if it gets spotted by the wrong person! I stay over to the side diagonally for this reason
Rest assured Eric, I do know the regs.
I used to fly them for the military.
Regards Charlie
Awesome 'how to' Charlie!! Thanks for sharing. Cheers Onno.
You’re most welcome Onno.
On the subject of ballast colours, there can be so much variation. Quite often, you’ll have a running line in each direction (up and down) but the ballast was brought from different locations on each running line when replaced. As a driver, I see it a lot!
For example, the Melton Mowbray line has extremely noticeable variation. The up line has ballast quarried at Mountsorrel (prepared and brought up from Toton) and is famously a vivid pink shade. However, down line ballast was brought in from Whitemoor and is a blue/grey colour. In the sunlight, the colours are very bright!
It’s something that I reckon is worth considering when ballasting a model railway based on a real location. The naturally occurring variation in igneous rock will vary based on where it’s quarried and staged for engineering work. Since most engineering work (T3’s) are usually worked in one through direction, you’ll get the effect mentioned above, where each line can have totally different looking ballast on each side.
It doesn’t always happen, but in my experience it’s something you’ll find regularly on double track routes that are pretty far from a large staging/marshalling yard. So the reason for it happening in my example, is probably just because Melton and Oakham are fairly equidistant from Toton and Whitemoor in each direction.
However, I’d be willing to bet that the ballast near Toton is nearly all pink, but the ballast near Whitemoor is nearly all blue.
That’s just because Network Rail are more likely to make the effort to source the materials from a nearby staging/marshalling yard, then have a larger engineering worksite when a staging yard is nearby. Network Rail would be more keen go through the more complex effort of running the T3 and ballast replacement over numerous lines at once if they’re not far from the starting location. I’d imagine British Rail did the same, it just makes sense from an operational perspective.
Then, if a Tamper and Stoneblower turn up to replace a patch, you’ll get a mismatched area of ballast colour, because equipment like that can just be sent off from any random siding in the country, with whatever materials it was carrying or supplied with previously. You can see that in Charlie’s picture in the station, although I suspect that’s a wet bed repair, where the discolouration probably just comes from chalky mud being brought up from the drainage under the ballast.
All that feels like a very complicated way of saying; “sometimes the ballast doesn’t match on both lines”, but I hope someone appreciates the explanation.
Essentially, I’m just trying to say that it doesn’t all have to look the same, or even similar!
KB, what an absolutely fascinating comment.
I may will print this one off and read it during my next video. Regards Charlie
Hi again, I’ve been thinking about your observations and was wondering if you have any digital photos. If so I would love to have them to help explain your comment.
Also, would you prefer me not to use your name?
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailwayI don’t have any photos I’m afraid, I can’t take any while I’m driving along. Should the opportunity ever arise (when I’m not ploughing along with 2200 tons of stone!), I’ll try and get a picture for you!
If you do wish to refer to my comment, you’re more than welcome! My name is Karl though, I’d rather you used that.
Thanks Charlie!
Thanks Karl, not to worry about the photos. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I sent some to your Facebook page, but the examples I have really don’t do it justice!