Well the primary solve is to use a pin detent anvil impact to resolve your specific case. But overall this is happening more even when they dont pop off. This typically happens with larger DeWALT impacts as well, as you mentioned. And it's not purely a power thing, air impacts of a similar power just dont do this, or do it MUCH slower. And the 2967 is probably one of the first Milwaukee impacts to BEHAVE like a dewalt in that at 10/10ths power on something stuck it chatters and chucks around a lot. So that's reason #1. #2 is sockets, the Vietnam Milwaukee shockwave impact sockets are just... alright. Snap-On or Sunex taiwan deeps will last a bit longer. #3 is that it's inventible either way. Sockets are made to be softer than the anvil, so the consumable socket is replaced before the tool. This is from back when an impact wrench would last 20-50 years+ if maintained and the socket maybe only 5-10. These past few years I've had sockets last longer than cordless tools, but that does seem to be changing with these new cordless beasts that just totally brutalize square drive broaches on sockets. I've yet to have an air tool ruin a socket in 1 day.
Very thorough explanation pretty much hit the nail on the head i would say I think maybe the only way we will see this solved would be to change away from a square drive and maybe to a torque style end to make it tighter
It is interesting how the air powered impacts don't do this. Socket wear was one thing I did notice when using cordless even with mid torques. I find myself using 3/4 impacts more often if I can.
It's coming off because you're not putting any pressure on the gun. IF you don't want to scratch the paint, get a little board or plastic piece and put it over the paint. That gun needs pressure to not twist off the socket. They didn't make it for people to hover the socket 1/2 a cm off the wheel.
The 2967-20 with the FORGE BEATS UP EVERYTHING I DO WITH IT and my HARBOR FREIGHT HERCULES ULTRA TORQUE GEN2 1/2 and 3/4 BEAT the crap out of SOCKETS TOO
How about the right tool for the right job. Get a pin detent model if you dont want the socket falling off. The hog ring is specifically designed for easy removal.
The problem with the pinned high torque impacts, pneumatic or not, creates a weak point in the anvil and can break it. That's why the pinned milwaukee only puts out like 800ft-lb. My matco pneumatic pumps out 1,600ft-lb and has the ring on it for that reason.
impacts are soft (relative to chrome sockets) and are a "wear item" like brake pads under regular use. example: I have an original 12 year old Ingersoll W7150 1/2 inch impact (certainly not as powerful as a modern Milwaukee 1/2 inch) and it has managed to hammer out all of my frequently used impact sockets. therein the solution is simply to recognize there is NO FREE LUNCH (you know just like our Fathers told us) and you DO have to spend money on a regular basis to replace worn out and broken tools.
Milwaukee charges a fortune for their sockets, and they warranty them for life. You've reamed out the socket, and that happens when you push your take-off torque past 1500 ft-lbs. If your bolts are that tight, you may need to get a 3/4" impact wrench. Further, you CAN'T keep the impact socket away from the rim and not expect to damage the socket. That should be common sense. I am not beating up on you, but you probably did damage your socket because you didn't want to mar your rims. Further, if your bolts are that tight, you damn sure are not going to use a mid-torque impact wrench to take them off.
They charge a fortune? I have all Milwaukee sockets, and I have the cheapest set in the shop. I suppose you haven’t looked at snap on or Mac tools prices?
@@clone1137 Yes, I am aware that Snap On, Mac and other tool manufacturers have exotic and relatively unearned prices. Milwaukee probably is a better choice in those cases. I will probably get Milwaukee ratchet wrenches and sockets at some point, but they are very expensive. I do think they offer many tangible functions for their cost. So I am kind of in your court, I own Milwaukee tools and I think they are high quality. But I just bought a DeWalt Multitool because it was over a $100 cheaper than Milwaukee and it is just amazing. it's 5 Amp hour battery is smaller and lighter and its power and speed are just off-the-charts. It also has completely toolless blade changes; you can change blades in about 5 seconds. It also has a powerful LED light. I am guessing that it is at least equal to Milwaukee's multitool, which is also noted for its power. So, I am not married to Milwaukee. I just want the best tool for the job. I am also looking hard at some Flex tools. Milwaukee isn't always the best tool and their batteries are unbelievably expensive.
I bring out the breaker bar if I know the job is going to overwork the gun running the battery down, or if sockets are at risk. One good shove on each lug is enough to make the impact work less. Does it take longer? By a minute yes, but it beats a 30 minute trip to buy more stuff.
As advertised, this impact gun is powerful,as a home diy car guy, took me a little time to realize this, a little leaning curve,and I now own a great tool.
We have multiples for the given task--M18 high torque, M18 high torque one-key high w/extended anvil, M18 mid-torque in 1/2 & 3/8, etc. The M18 high torque (previous generation to the current compact) will beat up sockets on HD truck brake caliper brackets which is why there's a 24" breaker bar at the ready to relieve the tension and save the sockets on those real stubborn fasteners that simply won't move even with the high torque impact. We haven't ventured into the new compact M18 high torque as of yet since the current stable hasn't failed us yet. On the wheel scuffing; they do offer coated 1/2 deep impact sockets for wheels. Might want to take a look at those. Hope your doggo's alright, bro and thanks for the insight.
I recently bought the Ridgid high torque but had to return it because my octane batteries were getting stuck on the impact. I tried for 2 hours to get the battery off with no success. I had to take the impact to the Ridgid authorized repair depot and it took the service tech 1/2 hour to get it off. He said he could send it back under warranty and I said no because I just bought it and it is going back to Home Depot to exchange for another one. I got that high torque impact exchanged, brought the new one home so I could take my winter tires off and put my summer tires on. I tried the new Ridgid high toque and it would not even remove my lug nuts that are torqued to 100 ft lbs on the number 3 high setting. So I exchanged that one for the Milwaukee High Torque. I do own the Ridgid mid torque and that gets used for most things as it works great.
Do you own any Sunex or Capri impact sockets? I actually like how they don't have a chamfer on the drive end of the socket because it doesn't chew up the sockets as much. I'm curious if this would help in your specific case.
I reccomend the sockets 48-66-7833 with the sleeves so you can still put pressure to hold the socket against the fastener but there’s a correlation between the two tho and your not the only one noticing, this is def more of a problem with cordless impacts and more specifically this new round of wrench model releases, such as the dcf900 & 961, metabo hpt’s new 1/2” is like that too the wr36dg I believe is the model (3/4” wr36df does way better) and the new 2967 all do it from what I’ve seen
I've seen a few videos where thee other end, the mouth of the socket either splits or worse, a chunk chips off and pieces spray out, when people are using this high torque impact.
This has happened to me also. I was taking off a tire, and it literally mushroomed out after my 1st use. I never really had issues with the last gen bit. This one hits harder. So I use mode 2 most of the time, or I use my mid torque.
After using my stubby 3/8 over 3 years my 3/8 shock wave 13mm looks like that I tried warranty 3 time Milwaukee won’t respond So some times it’s better use husky Kobalt Then ur dresss set And they swap it out no question sad If wasn’t for Milwaukee paint on there sockets I have tried switching impact but brands with better warranty But the labeling on miwaklle is really good
In my opinion I would rather have to replace the socket then the gun The socket it's doing its job even tool truck brands the most common sizes that mechanics use including myself are going to get warrantied out at least once every 2 to once every year and a half maybe 3 years tops before they mushroom like that so it's not uncommon the impact socket is doing what it was designed to do I've had snap-on sockets do that matco sockets do that icon Capri and tecton just all depends how much you use them in specifically like stated before the more common sizes are got a mushroom out quicker
100% your fault. The sockets are designed for easy take off, but stay on the impact anvil when the gun is pressed forward. Whenever there is free play on the socket when the impact is pounding, the socket will break loose, especially with a high-torque impact wrench. They can make the socket a lot mre tighter on the anvil, but the users will have a hard time taking it off.
Im hoping they will come out with a more powerful (like 400 Ft pounds breakaway) gen 2 M12 stubby 3/8 and 1/2 drive impacts. Give it the newer style tri led lights like the new M18 impacts and kit it with the XC 5.0 High Output pack or perhaps if they make a M12 forge battery.
i mean i work with 7/8sockets on high torque and mid torques fastening nuts all day... your socket looks like it has tightened 4 7/8 nuts to 350lbs with a mid torque, thats just fine wear and tear and is normal honestly it looks to me. These half inch guns are getting very strong, too strong for 1/2". but if you have decent sockets they should last well long enough. ugly sockets sure socket that wont work anymore, not very common i use mostly williams proto and armstrong sockets, but milwaukees' sockets trash just about as quick as gearwrench/tektons in my experience.
I work on Forklifts , reach trucks , swing reaches...etc etc. I have most of the m18 and m12 stuff but tbt....my go to is my trusty m12 stubby. Yes my high torque is very hard on sockets of all brands...I would certainly not have this as my only impact. Depending on your kind of work of course.....the stubby and the mid-torque are hard to beat. Great vid as always.
I have always found that the anvil/friction rings on the Milwaukee's not hold sockets as well as my IR pneumatics' especially the M12's it wont even hold a chrome socket (i know you're not suppose to use chrome with impacts) they do a better job with impact sockets but my old IR titanium 3/8 would hold any socket I put on it.
Hmmmmmm.........your video just made me go and check, sockets look used but not to the point of popping off, i use the dewalt Dcf894h, not a tool i use alot, but happy i have it .
Improper use of tools & using wrong tool for the job. There sockets specifically made for people who want to avoid damaging finish on wheels. Or you can use a more shallow socket & or an impact with an anvil with a pin detention…impact sockets wear out with use but it’s wearing out quicker because it’s not staying seated onto the anvil while impacting
The pin detent won't deform the sockets? That is incorrect because the 2966-20 is deforming the square drive and doing the same thing in this situation.
1, buy some yellow paint. 2, buy a 3/4 or 1 inch wrench. 3, don't expect miracles from a 1/2 inch pisser when you should be using something larger. 4, the way you're using the tool, a detent pin would be preferable to an inappropriate hog ring. 🙈
Well the primary solve is to use a pin detent anvil impact to resolve your specific case.
But overall this is happening more even when they dont pop off. This typically happens with larger DeWALT impacts as well, as you mentioned. And it's not purely a power thing, air impacts of a similar power just dont do this, or do it MUCH slower. And the 2967 is probably one of the first Milwaukee impacts to BEHAVE like a dewalt in that at 10/10ths power on something stuck it chatters and chucks around a lot.
So that's reason #1. #2 is sockets, the Vietnam Milwaukee shockwave impact sockets are just... alright. Snap-On or Sunex taiwan deeps will last a bit longer.
#3 is that it's inventible either way. Sockets are made to be softer than the anvil, so the consumable socket is replaced before the tool. This is from back when an impact wrench would last 20-50 years+ if maintained and the socket maybe only 5-10. These past few years I've had sockets last longer than cordless tools, but that does seem to be changing with these new cordless beasts that just totally brutalize square drive broaches on sockets.
I've yet to have an air tool ruin a socket in 1 day.
Very thorough explanation pretty much hit the nail on the head i would say
I think maybe the only way we will see this solved would be to change away from a square drive and maybe to a torque style end to make it tighter
It is interesting how the air powered impacts don't do this. Socket wear was one thing I did notice when using cordless even with mid torques. I find myself using 3/4 impacts more often if I can.
@@itsnot1673That might affect transfer of power with the blows. I think just using a 3/4 size for high torque might be easier.
i was going to make him look it up himself by asking why his socket has holes in it
It's coming off because you're not putting any pressure on the gun. IF you don't want to scratch the paint, get a little board or plastic piece and put it over the paint. That gun needs pressure to not twist off the socket. They didn't make it for people to hover the socket 1/2 a cm off the wheel.
The 2967-20 with the FORGE BEATS UP EVERYTHING I DO WITH IT and my HARBOR FREIGHT HERCULES ULTRA TORQUE GEN2 1/2 and 3/4 BEAT the crap out of SOCKETS TOO
Is the 2967 milwaukee impact wrench worth the extra money over the gen 2 1/2 hercules impact wrench?
How about the right tool for the right job.
Get a pin detent model if you dont want the socket falling off.
The hog ring is specifically designed for easy removal.
The problem with the pinned high torque impacts, pneumatic or not, creates a weak point in the anvil and can break it. That's why the pinned milwaukee only puts out like 800ft-lb. My matco pneumatic pumps out 1,600ft-lb and has the ring on it for that reason.
impacts are soft (relative to chrome sockets) and are a "wear item" like brake pads under regular use.
example: I have an original 12 year old Ingersoll W7150 1/2 inch impact (certainly not as powerful as a modern Milwaukee 1/2 inch) and it has managed to hammer out all of my frequently used impact sockets.
therein the solution is simply to recognize there is NO FREE LUNCH (you know just like our Fathers told us) and you DO have to spend money on a regular basis to replace worn out and broken tools.
Milwaukee charges a fortune for their sockets, and they warranty them for life. You've reamed out the socket, and that happens when you push your take-off torque past 1500 ft-lbs. If your bolts are that tight, you may need to get a 3/4" impact wrench. Further, you CAN'T keep the impact socket away from the rim and not expect to damage the socket. That should be common sense. I am not beating up on you, but you probably did damage your socket because you didn't want to mar your rims. Further, if your bolts are that tight, you damn sure are not going to use a mid-torque impact wrench to take them off.
They charge a fortune? I have all Milwaukee sockets, and I have the cheapest set in the shop. I suppose you haven’t looked at snap on or Mac tools prices?
@@clone1137 Yes, I am aware that Snap On, Mac and other tool manufacturers have exotic and relatively unearned prices. Milwaukee probably is a better choice in those cases.
I will probably get Milwaukee ratchet wrenches and sockets at some point, but they are very expensive. I do think they offer many tangible functions for their cost.
So I am kind of in your court, I own Milwaukee tools and I think they are high quality. But I just bought a DeWalt Multitool because it was over a $100 cheaper than Milwaukee and it is just amazing. it's 5 Amp hour battery is smaller and lighter and its power and speed are just off-the-charts. It also has completely toolless blade changes; you can change blades in about 5 seconds. It also has a powerful LED light. I am guessing that it is at least equal to Milwaukee's multitool, which is also noted for its power.
So, I am not married to Milwaukee. I just want the best tool for the job. I am also looking hard at some Flex tools. Milwaukee isn't always the best tool and their batteries are unbelievably expensive.
Maybe try Auto mode....it regulates how much power is needed
1/2" wrench, 1" power. Good thing we can easily warranty sockets.
I bring out the breaker bar if I know the job is going to overwork the gun running the battery down, or if sockets are at risk. One good shove on each lug is enough to make the impact work less. Does it take longer? By a minute yes, but it beats a 30 minute trip to buy more stuff.
As advertised, this impact gun is powerful,as a home diy car guy, took me a little time to realize this, a little leaning curve,and I now own a great tool.
We have multiples for the given task--M18 high torque, M18 high torque one-key high w/extended anvil, M18 mid-torque in 1/2 & 3/8, etc. The M18 high torque (previous generation to the current compact) will beat up sockets on HD truck brake caliper brackets which is why there's a 24" breaker bar at the ready to relieve the tension and save the sockets on those real stubborn fasteners that simply won't move even with the high torque impact. We haven't ventured into the new compact M18 high torque as of yet since the current stable hasn't failed us yet.
On the wheel scuffing; they do offer coated 1/2 deep impact sockets for wheels. Might want to take a look at those. Hope your doggo's alright, bro and thanks for the insight.
Depends on the task....Mode 1 mode 2 mode 3 and so on...I know...I just keep it on blast...will reduce the mode power
I just got this bad boy like a day ago. Pretty compact for a high torque.
How is that Milwaukee holding up?
I recently bought the Ridgid high torque but had to return it because my octane batteries were getting stuck on the impact. I tried for 2 hours to get the battery off with no success. I had to take the impact to the Ridgid authorized repair depot and it took the service tech 1/2 hour to get it off. He said he could send it back under warranty and I said no because I just bought it and it is going back to Home Depot to exchange for another one. I got that high torque impact exchanged, brought the new one home so I could take my winter tires off and put my summer tires on. I tried the new Ridgid high toque and it would not even remove my lug nuts that are torqued to 100 ft lbs on the number 3 high setting. So I exchanged that one for the Milwaukee High Torque. I do own the Ridgid mid torque and that gets used for most things as it works great.
Do you own any Sunex or Capri impact sockets? I actually like how they don't have a chamfer on the drive end of the socket because it doesn't chew up the sockets as much. I'm curious if this would help in your specific case.
I have a stack of Sunex that are close to this Milwaukee, but they have been used for much longer. This milwaukee lasted me 10 bolts.
Would using a short “sacrificial” extension alleviate the issue?
I reccomend the sockets 48-66-7833 with the sleeves so you can still put pressure to hold the socket against the fastener but there’s a correlation between the two tho and your not the only one noticing, this is def more of a problem with cordless impacts and more specifically this new round of wrench model releases, such as the dcf900 & 961, metabo hpt’s new 1/2” is like that too the wr36dg I believe is the model (3/4” wr36df does way better) and the new 2967 all do it from what I’ve seen
I've seen a few videos where thee other end, the mouth of the socket either splits or worse, a chunk chips off and pieces spray out, when people are using this high torque impact.
Maybe the socket’s hole is a little bit bigger than the drive?
I stick with the DCF894 and 921 for most work. Modern impacts have moved the needle to the point that mid-torques can get most things done.
This has happened to me also. I was taking off a tire, and it literally mushroomed out after my 1st use. I never really had issues with the last gen bit. This one hits harder. So I use mode 2 most of the time, or I use my mid torque.
After using my stubby 3/8 over 3 years my 3/8 shock wave 13mm looks like that I tried warranty 3 time Milwaukee won’t respond
So some times it’s better use husky Kobalt
Then ur dresss set
And they swap it out no question sad
If wasn’t for Milwaukee paint on there sockets
I have tried switching impact but brands with better warranty
But the labeling on miwaklle is really good
That labeling is really good. I still carry Pittsburgh but I need a rag and glasses to see that shit if I can’t find the milwaukee size right away.
In my opinion I would rather have to replace the socket then the gun The socket it's doing its job even tool truck brands the most common sizes that mechanics use including myself are going to get warrantied out at least once every 2 to once every year and a half maybe 3 years tops before they mushroom like that so it's not uncommon the impact socket is doing what it was designed to do I've had snap-on sockets do that matco sockets do that icon Capri and tecton just all depends how much you use them in specifically like stated before the more common sizes are got a mushroom out quicker
100% your fault. The sockets are designed for easy take off, but stay on the impact anvil when the gun is pressed forward. Whenever there is free play on the socket when the impact is pounding, the socket will break loose, especially with a high-torque impact wrench. They can make the socket a lot mre tighter on the anvil, but the users will have a hard time taking it off.
By will lug sockets that has a protective sleeve on it that doesn't scratch the ramps and paint and use as attended
Im hoping they will come out with a more powerful (like 400 Ft pounds breakaway) gen 2 M12 stubby 3/8 and 1/2 drive impacts. Give it the newer style tri led lights like the new M18 impacts and kit it with the XC 5.0 High Output pack or perhaps if they make a M12 forge battery.
i mean i work with 7/8sockets on high torque and mid torques fastening nuts all day... your socket looks like it has tightened 4 7/8 nuts to 350lbs with a mid torque, thats just fine wear and tear and is normal honestly it looks to me. These half inch guns are getting very strong, too strong for 1/2". but if you have decent sockets they should last well long enough.
ugly sockets sure
socket that wont work anymore, not very common
i use mostly williams proto and armstrong sockets, but milwaukees' sockets trash just about as quick as gearwrench/tektons in my experience.
I work on Forklifts , reach trucks , swing reaches...etc etc. I have most of the m18 and m12 stuff but tbt....my go to is my trusty m12 stubby. Yes my high torque is very hard on sockets of all brands...I would certainly not have this as my only impact. Depending on your kind of work of course.....the stubby and the mid-torque are hard to beat. Great vid as always.
I have always found that the anvil/friction rings on the Milwaukee's not hold sockets as well as my IR pneumatics' especially the M12's it wont even hold a chrome socket (i know you're not suppose to use chrome with impacts) they do a better job with impact sockets but my old IR titanium 3/8 would hold any socket I put on it.
In this case, the impact wrench beat the internals of the socket so bad when tightening up 8 bolts that is forces the socket out.
Ive been looking at impact socket sets. If youre destroying sockets with that light of use, they'll never last in heavy use.
That is one of the points I was trying to make in the video.
@@WorkshopAddict thank you. Your videos are always informative.
In an over simplistic way the sockets are just not very good.
Why can’t you use a short extension?
Big money outfits can't make a rim protector? Come on...
Hmmmmmm.........your video just made me go and check, sockets look used but not to the point of popping off, i use the dewalt Dcf894h, not a tool i use alot, but happy i have it .
The 900 was the first big dewalt to kill sockets for me.
Those sockets are Not of good quality!
The solution is to use a snap on impact socket
Its a tractor not a lambo it’s meant to get scratches, buy some John Deere yellow paint and touch up the spots
Improper use of tools & using wrong tool for the job. There sockets specifically made for people who want to avoid damaging finish on wheels. Or you can use a more shallow socket & or an impact with an anvil with a pin detention…impact sockets wear out with use but it’s wearing out quicker because it’s not staying seated onto the anvil while impacting
Can you just use an extension and call it a day? Lol
That's the reason they make one with a pin
The pin detent won't deform the sockets? That is incorrect because the 2966-20 is deforming the square drive and doing the same thing in this situation.
You’re buying the wrong tools for the job man
Lack of experience
Here first
1, buy some yellow paint. 2, buy a 3/4 or 1 inch wrench. 3, don't expect miracles from a 1/2 inch pisser when you should be using something larger. 4, the way you're using the tool, a detent pin would be preferable to an inappropriate hog ring. 🙈
Or just dont run it full power from the start
Also in the field I'm in I just use them to break things loose never tighten anything