Replacing front brakes, rotors and wheel bearings - Ford Ranger - 1998-2012 - RWD
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- In this video, my brother and I replace the front rotors, and brake pads, as well as the inner and outer wheel bearings. We remove the old rotor and install new wheel bearings after packing them with grease. Getting the rear seal to seat properly can be challenging, but we got it in. We installed new ceramic brake pads to finish off a nice brake job for my brother.
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#rotors #wheelbearing #brakes 
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I've never worked on a Forrrrr. Foooo. FFFFF... I can't do it. LOL
I like the video based solely on the intro 😂
3 Wheels & A Block Dad always said it wasn’t nice to say the four letter F word. 😂
Where'd you get the torque rating for the bearing nut?
Ford.
F#$ked Over Recycled Dodge. LOL 😂😆
I’m extremely grateful for this video! I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and I changed the rotor all by myself following this video. I’m can’t believe I actually did it. This “mechanic” came and tried changing them and he was missing parts. The inner bearing and the wheel seal.. When I checked the rotor was completely loose, almost falling off. It was making such an ugly noise like a screeching sound and he said it was because they were new brake pads and rotor but I just knew something was wrong.. my tire almost fell off. He put the outer bearing in the inside and it was completely broken when I took the wheel off. This video saved me so much money and I learned so much. So thank you! I felt like such a badass cuz I did this all on my own lmao
Thanks for including the torques needed. Most leave that out.
Thank you very much for including the parts and torques in your video. It made using Rock Auto that much simpler. I understand the rash. GMC guys are usually allergic to Quality. JK, I have a 2001 Suburban with the 5.3 Vortec. Rock solid engine. I love my Ranger too.
Great video. Best and most informative one I've found before doing my rotors and pads on my Ranger. Thanks guys!
Video's great. 101%. For others who may watch - note that some rotors have the REAR bearing race preinstalled too. And in that case, if you put the supplied race in over top of it (where it fits and seems it should go, probably useful on a different application), nothing will go together, you'll wonder "why your rotor is 1/4" too tall for the application, dang it (supplier)," etc. But then the OBVIOUS SOLUTION will slap you in the face and all will be well. So, uh, I heard some guy did that. :D
Huh????😮
Yeah this already had the rear race in it as well so your point is moot. He only tapped in the rear seal.
Now that’s how you hand pack bearings perfect job !!
Thank you for making this video, I'll be needing it VERY soon, got my new rotors that I was told already HAD the bearings in it only to find out....... they aren't so now I gotta get the bearings and seals hopefully after she makes it home from one more night of work.......
Great straight forward video! Informative and easy. Thank you bros
I just reused the old bearings they came out pretty easy. Everything seems to be working as it is should.
Great opening!
Nice fix Dan. I always drove chevrolet and oldsmobile when I was growing up so that's what I was used to. Then a relative left me a grand marquis when he passed and working on it was like entering a foreign country. It's been a good car though and fun to learn .
Ken Oger Foreign country 😂 that’s a good way to put it. 👍
I just saw a quick tip. If your changing your rear bearing seal, loosen the castle nut slightly on the front and pop the rotor off. It will pull the rear bearing and seal right out.
Wow! Ty
Super simple now I need to do this tomorrow
Thank You..Man O Man guys Ty a Billion...
Muchas gracias me sirvió mucho el tutorial
Check slide pins for self centering caliper..make sure they move good ..if not take them apart and fix
Buen video.cualbes la entrada delos baleros.. cual parte entra i.cual parte es por fuera.
Having a bearing a seal driver kit comes in handy on old shit like these rangers
Can you reuse the same seal from the old rotor if you’re using the same rotor? Pliz help 😅 thanks
Did you put the reservoir cap back on?
Did you jack it up on the suspension beams?
The biggest contradiction I see is on the setting for tightening the nut is one mechanic says 40 inch pounds and you state 240 inch pounds. Thats a big difference.
We were following the numbers stated in the repair manual. 🤔 interesting.
in re: info provided at 4:37... as of 9/22/2020 the indicated part is $46.79.
You should pack some grease in the hub before puttin the outter bearing. Also you may have had too much torque on the spindle nut. It should only be finger tight (with a socket and no wrench).
What if I can’t torque to desired pounds
I just did this on one wheel (thank you for great video) and noticed that there's a huge difference between how freely the new rotor/bearings spin (mine looks just like the video) and how freely the opposite wheel spins. The old opposite wheel (the one I didn't work on) spins much more freely. Is this a sign that bearings are worn or is this normal wear?
The old bearing will spin more freely because it's got wear on it. If there's any play in the hub (not tight), then you'll want to replace it. Worn out bearings can cause premature tire wear.
The wheel bearings drag more when they're freshly packed with grease. They will spin some grease out as you drive and then spin more freely.
@@TheDaninator thanks!
I’m gonna do this on my 1999 ford ranger 2wd. I’m replacing the pads and rotors on the front. And I plan on replacing seals and bearings. Is it two bearings per side and one seal per side or is there two seals on each side? Basically what I’m asking is how many bearings and how many seals will I need total?
There's an inner and outer bearing for each wheel
Can you please tell me what size c-clamp did you use
C-clamp isn't required for this job. You can buy a cheap caliper spreader at the parts store. Use an old brake pad on the caliper pistons to push them both back in simultaneously with the spreader.
what size socket did you need to use to set in the seal please??
dazzargilmour I believe it’s 24mm
@@ronjose51 27 mm
I wanted to do things perfect so i mad sure i watch your video then I took notes. when i tighten the rotor bolt to 240 foot pounds something strange happen the bolt kept spinning ! Whats going on ? OMG !!!! You said 240 inch pounds !!! WTF is that....man i wish you would have made that clearer... Like this is inch pounds not foot pounds! So what damage did i do and how do i get that bolt out so i can replace it ? I cant find any info about this problem im now having ! Inch pounds when u could of just said 20 foot pounds ?
ok. now for us normal people who dont change the whole hub "just because", how do we get out the old and put in the new race??
I did mine with a hammer and screwdriver to remove the old chases, and a large socket and a hammer to put the new ones in. You need plenty of patience too.
Large punch and big hammer i have done plenty on big truck
Darn my abs light came on after changing everything out. Drives fine.... But light is on. Insight?
Probably the wrong rotors. There's ones with 2 wheel abs and 4 wheel abs.
Did you ever find out the issue
Ya kept switching between ft/lb and in/lb careful of that, people who aren't paying attention to the details will screw up bad.
Also sounded like you said main axle but was 24mm but the label looks like its in inches
First comment 🚜🇺🇲
240in/lbs = 20f/lbs and 20in/lbs = 1.6 f/lbs -so this is the final torque,only 1.6f/lbs?
From what I have seen in other videos, they do an inital torque to 15 ft lbs, back it off, and torque back to 2 ft lbs. A lot of torque wrenches do not go below 10 ft lbs.
so no need to use the races that came with the bearings, to pop off the ones on the rotors and put in press in the timken ones.
i rather do it your way...but???.....anybody care to give opinion on that.
20 IN/LB torque - saved you from watching the whole video... ya welcome.
Wrong way to Do it
You need a dial indicator, bring the bearing to 0,001" to 0,005" of END play
I hope you had a good long hot shower after working on that F***. Lol