The actual switch is a reed switch ( as they call it, i.e. magnetic switch). It is snapped on the top front panel. The door lid has magnet, When you bring the lid down, it causes the switch to connect. In other words you can bypass it just the same, by simply splicing the wire wherever you find it convinient just to bypass it, so you know it is the reed switch problem. If the magnet is the problem, you can place another magnet on the switch and see what happens.
Oh man! Please respond. I've been troubleshooting this darn thing for days! I have the exact same model as you. I checked the continuity on the lid switch and it's fine. I checked the pump (not clogged and spins), I checked the drain tube, the belt is intact and placed properly (isn't loose or damaged), I checked the capacitor, and continuity on the motor couplings per the schematic. The darn thing will go through all the cycles just fine (agitates and drains) but refuses to spin. When I open and close the lid, I can see the belt move a bit like it wants to start but then it will stop. What is wrong with this thing? Someone please.
MommyMilestones.. thanks for this video. My digital multimeter (harborfreight Centech) set to the lowest Ohm Setting (well I tried all settings) didn't register the reading so I ordered another lid switch assembly and to my disappointment the multimeter didn't show continuity in the new one as well. Not sure what happened but the story ended well. I tried the new lid switch on and the machine functions beautifully (it was not agitating or spinning with the old lid switch). Thanks again. The point is I think an analog multimeter maybe works better for these continuity checks???
Does the machine needs to stay plugged in, what settings should use if using a digital ohmmeter and what numbers should I be looking for if it's good or bad? Thanks
@@mommymilestones if the power on and you measuring the continuity the multmeter will burn out by the time this model of washer very old so the spaire part is shortage by the time is there any way to refurbish the lid switch And the price is too much in usa but in saudi arabia is very cheap but there is no more lid switch for this machine wdsr2080gww.
Hello mother! I have the same problem with a ge washing machine and the lid switch is damaged. I put a bypass and work well but then it stopped ... and in the flash code I mark 7 flash that is the same fault lid switch so I would like to know what happened? or does it damage the circuit board or deprogram it?
Bypassing should only be done for testing purposes for safety. It will not reprogram it or cause damage. The control board may be smarter than your override in this case.
Your agitator or timer could be bad. I would check the motor coupler 1st as its an easy visual if there is a problem. GE is a bit different than Whirlpool/Maytag so search GE, sounds like your timer is not advancing
Interesante y muy bien esxplicado. El problema es que no se inglés. Por lo menos haga el video subtitulado en español. Me interesa mucho. Muchas gracias.
Estoy aprendiendo a través de google translate. Acabo de enterarme de la leyenda y la traducción de RUclips. Hasta que pueda hacerlo, busque AppliancePartsPros. Ellos están mucho más avanzados que yo en el rodaje y estoy bastante seguro de que ofrecen español. Gracias por el comentario y el interés. Espero que esto ayude.
The actual switch is a reed switch ( as they call it, i.e. magnetic switch). It is snapped on the top front panel.
The door lid has magnet, When you bring the lid down, it causes the switch to connect.
In other words you can bypass it just the same, by simply splicing the wire wherever you find it convinient just to bypass it, so you know it is the reed switch problem. If the magnet is the problem, you can place another magnet on the switch and see what happens.
Thanks for watching
Oh man! Please respond. I've been troubleshooting this darn thing for days! I have the exact same model as you. I checked the continuity on the lid switch and it's fine. I checked the pump (not clogged and spins), I checked the drain tube, the belt is intact and placed properly (isn't loose or damaged), I checked the capacitor, and continuity on the motor couplings per the schematic. The darn thing will go through all the cycles just fine (agitates and drains) but refuses to spin. When I open and close the lid, I can see the belt move a bit like it wants to start but then it will stop. What is wrong with this thing? Someone please.
Do you have any advice on how to repair a 3-prong lid switch? Please & thank you!!
The middle or bottom is usually a ground do the 2 emds
MommyMilestones.. thanks for this video. My digital multimeter (harborfreight Centech) set to the lowest Ohm Setting (well I tried all settings) didn't register the reading so I ordered another lid switch assembly and to my disappointment the multimeter didn't show continuity in the new one as well. Not sure what happened but the story ended well. I tried the new lid switch on and the machine functions beautifully (it was not agitating or spinning with the old lid switch). Thanks again. The point is I think an analog multimeter maybe works better for these continuity checks???
Agreed!
Does the machine needs to stay plugged in, what settings should use if using a digital ohmmeter and what numbers should I be looking for if it's good or bad? Thanks
I only use a analog meter so Im not sure about digital setting or readings. Always unplug anything youre working on.
@@mommymilestones if the power on and you measuring the continuity the multmeter will burn out by the time this model of washer very old so the spaire part is shortage by the time is there any way to refurbish the lid switch And the price is too much in usa but in saudi arabia is very cheap but there is no more lid switch for this machine wdsr2080gww.
Great!
Thanks
My favorite part about the video is the cricket chirping in the background. Makes me homesick.
Good job ! Keep it up!
Hello mother! I have the same problem with a ge washing machine and the lid switch is damaged. I put a bypass and work well but then it stopped ... and in the flash code I mark 7 flash that is the same fault lid switch so I would like to know what happened? or does it damage the circuit board or deprogram it?
Bypassing should only be done for testing purposes for safety. It will not reprogram it or cause damage. The control board may be smarter than your override in this case.
Great video thank you
Hi i have a ge washer the water fill up and start to wash then shuts off and does nothing can some one help me please thanks
Your agitator or timer could be bad. I would check the motor coupler 1st as its an easy visual if there is a problem. GE is a bit different than Whirlpool/Maytag so search GE, sounds like your timer is not advancing
The tester is oldmodel my tester is digital ...got not moving needle ...what,s the readings in digital tester. Grate video this is my only question.
What should it show if it is a digital multi-meter if the lid switch is good?
Test on OHMS- Analog tester, the needle should move to the other side. If it does nothing replace it.
Thanks
Lmao molex pins not sensors but you got everything else right and did a good job
Interesante y muy bien esxplicado. El problema es que no se inglés. Por lo menos haga el video subtitulado en español. Me interesa mucho. Muchas gracias.
Estoy aprendiendo a través de google translate. Acabo de enterarme de la leyenda y la traducción de RUclips. Hasta que pueda hacerlo, busque AppliancePartsPros. Ellos están mucho más avanzados que yo en el rodaje y estoy bastante seguro de que ofrecen español. Gracias por el comentario y el interés. Espero que esto ayude.
Mommymilestones Muy agradecido por su pronta respuesta. Muchas gracias.
por favor en español
traducir al español