You need a magnet to test that lid switch. Attach you meter to each lead and put a magnet on top of the switch, then your meter should show continuity. If you don't have a magnet handy you can remove the one from the lid.
Learned a valuable lesson to read the comments. Wayne Whyte is absolutely correct. After watching video, I tested it and showed (according to video) my lid switch was bad when in reality it needed to be in contact with lid magnet while testing. So I now have 2 working lid switches and a non-working washing machine.
You Rock, You could stick a sewing needle or safety pen into each wire and then do your ohms check. Just so you don't have to cut wires into. Just an idea.
Hate to say this, but this needs to be corrected or removed. I am no expert, but I have worked on several appliances. The purpose of the magnet is to engage the switch.
nice...hi there... so If I want to bypass the lid switch to test the machine (essentially same)......i look for the two wires you showed? or??? i thought it was the two black wires plugged to the white/red,red in white connectors..nothing going....?
Thanks, great video. I have the same washer, wouldn't start, so I pulled out and tested the switch, no continuity, so bad lid switch right? Well I joined the wires with a wire nut to bypass the switch so washer would work til a replacement switch arrives, put it all back together carefully, and still won't start! So the switch is bad but bypassing it didn't help somehow....argh...any ideas??
@@Noxtreme wirenut the two wires going to the control board. Unless there is a bad connection at the board where it plugs in, it should work. If not, I would definitely suspect the board. If it fills but nothing else, might be the inline fuse going to the motor. This is usually covered with tape.
Rickey Keeton thank you for reminding me of this comment. My memory is a bit fuzzy because this was months ago but I ended up learning how to get this washer into diagnostic mode which allowed me to eliminate some issues. I remember getting the indication that it was not the lid switch but I went ahead and tried replacing it anyway. It did not fix the problem. I don’t remember if it was a part of the diagnostic mode or not but there is an led on or near the motor. I remember it was flashing a code of some kind so I went to a local appliance shop and asked them if they could help me figure out what it meant and if it was dead I would buy a new set from them. They were happy to help (of course). The parts person called one of their field techs and asked them about the flash code without telling them about our deal and he said it was a dead motor most likely. Bummer for me but the motor was more then I had paid for the used set so I just splurged and bought a very nice Electrolux set. Anyway. Look for the led flash code near the motor. Sorry I can’t remember more about how I got to that point but I do think it was some part of the diagnostic mode this washer has.
@@Noxtreme A steady blink with no pauses usually indicates the motor is good. I am told this is not always true. I have a couple GE's that act crazy. No pauses in the blinking light. I sort of suspect the mode shifter on the small electronic board in the motor, but I am told it is usually the motor. I guess, if it is the shifter, and since it is connected to the motor within the motor housing, it could be considered the motor. I plan to disasemble the mitor housing to check this for my own satisfaction. Imo, these error codes do not always tell exactly what the problem is. In some cases, they ooint you in the right direction.
I have a GE we have to keep hitting the start button, it will work for a bit during the cycle then shut off again. Sometimes takes 5-10 times to hit start during the cycle - think its this horrible lid switch??
@mommymilestones my ge washer won't spin or agitate, i changed the lid switch cause it was testing bad but still not agitating or spinning i checked the belt and it's fine and there are no broken parts at the bottom of the bay so i'm thinking it's a bad motor, also i checked pressure sensor and that seemed to be ok. i tried checking error codes but nothing came up on the interface going from position 1 - 11. have you ever had it where it won't agitate or spin but it fills and drains ok
Look up motor coupler. it's a plastic piece between the motor to the trans. Made of plastic and costs $5-10. Not sure if yours would have it or not due to date of maufacture or model.
FYI for all those with a GE WASHER that doesn't spin or agitate check your motor if there is no light blinking your MOTOR is shot, your welcome just saved you a free service call
I was trying to repair the same washer, but in muy case it dont start at all, anything, no lights no movement. I was Wonder if you have the service manual for some help. Someone say me that could be the motor board, could be that?
My motor blinks 7 times. I googled it and it means that the lid hasn't been opened for 4 consecutive loads. Is that the problem a lid switch usually makes?
So if I'm using a digital multimeter what should the readout on the display be if the part is working? Mine displays 1 when turned on and stays there when it is touched to the wires of the lid switch. When I put the probes together it pretty much reads out as zero although it varies around 0 and doesn't read exact. Is my part working or does it need to be replaced? I have ohms set to 200 which is the lowest setting for my multimeter. Thanks.
No change = no continuity = BAD PART. Your needle should move to show continuity. If it doesn't, there is none and the part is defective. This reply is to help others that read comments, from which one can learn a lot.
Hello , I have the same washer and it washes fine , but it doesn't go to spin cycle until I open and close the lid a few times then starts spinning. Did you know what could it be?
Not draining points to the pump. Not spinning alone is a lid switch. Baby socks and other tiny items like panties can get clogged in the pump and line and cause it. Take it apart, it's already broken! That was the start of my appliance repair and do it yourself life when I was 11 or 12 years old when the toaster broke.
My washer would not go into spin cycle until open and close lid few times, then will only spin with few clothes in, capacitor seems to hace info erased so i need the capacitor information
touching the two wires on the lid switch with out the magnet- there is no continuity. with the magnet, there is continuity. - Mommy Milestone- you need to add a note to inform about the magnet used when testing the lid switch.
i cannot imagine a wife that is willing to do the same repairs that I do and does it as well or better. My last significant other was too entitled to have me repair any appliances. That is why she is an ex. If your hubby doesnt work out call me! :0
I know people like that. They are always unhappy. If it's not one thing it's another and it's always someone else to blame. If I screw it up trying to fix it, it was already broken. If I can fix half of what needs fixing in our life it takes the load off of my husband. There is no reason for anyone to be helpless. Good for you for doing your repairs. It feels good to fix things.
Mommymilestones Just purchased a house and the washer and dryer set were left with the home. The washer is identical to the video. Could you please tell me the model number?
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You need a magnet to test that lid switch. Attach you meter to each lead and put a magnet on top of the switch, then your meter should show continuity. If you don't have a magnet handy you can remove the one from the lid.
Wayne Whyte yeah exactly right. You cannot test a magnetic lid switch without putting the switch against a magnet.
I have that washer and dad showed me that
Learned a valuable lesson to read the comments. Wayne Whyte is absolutely correct. After watching video, I tested it and showed (according to video) my lid switch was bad when in reality it needed to be in contact with lid magnet while testing. So I now have 2 working lid switches and a non-working washing machine.
So glad I looked at comments, thank you.
Thanks Wayne Whyte you saved me from ordering a switch for nothing. Got to have a magnet to test it.
You Rock, You could stick a sewing needle or safety pen into each wire and then do your ohms check. Just so you don't have to cut wires into. Just an idea.
😂r
Hate to say this, but this needs to be corrected or removed. I am no expert, but I have worked on several appliances. The purpose of the magnet is to engage the switch.
Agree with the ones referring to the magnet. I usually keep a few around for testing purposes. That or remove the one from the washer being tested.
Whirlpool top loading washing machine will not fill all the way
Evangeline Fuentes I would check the water level switch
Thanks for sharing !
Sure thing!
You are fabulous !!! Crossing our fingers that it is just the lid switch! !
Great video!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks so much. I have question if I know use lead Switch can I buy pass with Out Lod switch . Just Direct please let me know
nice...hi there... so If I want to bypass the lid switch to test the machine (essentially same)......i look for the two wires you showed? or??? i thought it was the two black wires plugged to the white/red,red in white connectors..nothing going....?
thanks for the video very helpful
Thanks, great video. I have the same washer, wouldn't start, so I pulled out and tested the switch, no continuity, so bad lid switch right? Well I joined the wires with a wire nut to bypass the switch so washer would work til a replacement switch arrives, put it all back together carefully, and still won't start! So the switch is bad but bypassing it didn't help somehow....argh...any ideas??
I am with this guy. Can it be bypassed?
@@Noxtreme wirenut the two wires going to the control board. Unless there is a bad connection at the board where it plugs in, it should work. If not, I would definitely suspect the board.
If it fills but nothing else, might be the inline fuse going to the motor. This is usually covered with tape.
Rickey Keeton thank you for reminding me of this comment. My memory is a bit fuzzy because this was months ago but I ended up learning how to get this washer into diagnostic mode which allowed me to eliminate some issues. I remember getting the indication that it was not the lid switch but I went ahead and tried replacing it anyway. It did not fix the problem.
I don’t remember if it was a part of the diagnostic mode or not but there is an led on or near the motor. I remember it was flashing a code of some kind so I went to a local appliance shop and asked them if they could help me figure out what it meant and if it was dead I would buy a new set from them. They were happy to help (of course). The parts person called one of their field techs and asked them about the flash code without telling them about our deal and he said it was a dead motor most likely. Bummer for me but the motor was more then I had paid for the used set so I just splurged and bought a very nice Electrolux set.
Anyway. Look for the led flash code near the motor. Sorry I can’t remember more about how I got to that point but I do think it was some part of the diagnostic mode this washer has.
@@Noxtreme A steady blink with no pauses usually indicates the motor is good. I am told this is not always true.
I have a couple GE's that act crazy. No pauses in the blinking light. I sort of suspect the mode shifter on the small electronic board in the motor, but I am told it is usually the motor.
I guess, if it is the shifter, and since it is connected to the motor within the motor housing, it could be considered the motor.
I plan to disasemble the mitor housing to check this for my own satisfaction.
Imo, these error codes do not always tell exactly what the problem is. In some cases, they ooint you in the right direction.
Great pointers! Turned out to be my lid switch lost continuity.
Good job
I have a GE we have to keep hitting the start button, it will work for a bit during the cycle then shut off again. Sometimes takes 5-10 times to hit start during the cycle - think its this horrible lid switch??
Thaks for the video i fix my problem. 🇵🇷
@mommymilestones my ge washer won't spin or agitate, i changed the lid switch cause it was testing bad but still not agitating or spinning i checked the belt and it's fine and there are no broken parts at the bottom of the bay so i'm thinking it's a bad motor, also i checked pressure sensor and that seemed to be ok. i tried checking error codes but nothing came up on the interface going from position 1 - 11. have you ever had it where it won't agitate or spin but it fills and drains ok
Look up motor coupler. it's a plastic piece between the motor to the trans. Made of plastic and costs $5-10. Not sure if yours would have it or not due to date of maufacture or model.
how can you test the switch without the magnet in the lid?
awesome stuff.. :)
Hi I’m trying to fix my washer, it won’t switch cycles all it will do is fill up and drain any help?
Your timer is bad
FYI for all those with a GE WASHER that doesn't spin or agitate check your motor if there is no light blinking your MOTOR is shot, your welcome just saved you a free service call
14 yrs old washer, cant even see where there is a light that would blink on the circuit board. GE
I was trying to repair the same washer, but in muy case it dont start at all, anything, no lights no movement. I was Wonder if you have the service manual for some help. Someone say me that could be the motor board, could be that?
I have this washer. It wont stop spinning.
Timer is worn.
I also have an old GE washer. Where do I find the model number for this washer. Probably 2003.
Sometimes under the lid and sometimes on the back. Some were just a sticker and sometimes can fall off.
or there are terminals on the motor for it too.
My motor blinks 7 times. I googled it and it means that the lid hasn't been opened for 4 consecutive loads. Is that the problem a lid switch usually makes?
look for a reset button.
So if I'm using a digital multimeter what should the readout on the display be if the part is working? Mine displays 1 when turned on and stays there when it is touched to the wires of the lid switch. When I put the probes together it pretty much reads out as zero although it varies around 0 and doesn't read exact. Is my part working or does it need to be replaced? I have ohms set to 200 which is the lowest setting for my multimeter. Thanks.
No change = no continuity = BAD PART. Your needle should move to show continuity. If it doesn't, there is none and the part is defective. This reply is to help others that read comments, from which one can learn a lot.
@@emduplessis9996This is the vital bit of information that was missing from a good video. Thanks.
Hello , I have the same washer and it washes fine , but it doesn't go to spin cycle until I open and close the lid a few times then starts spinning. Did you know what could it be?
Lid switch
Ok . so I have a GE Elite washer....wont drain or spin. Already checked the hoses for clogs...nothing. Any suggestions?
Not draining points to the pump. Not spinning alone is a lid switch. Baby socks and other tiny items like panties can get clogged in the pump and line and cause it. Take it apart, it's already broken! That was the start of my appliance repair and do it yourself life when I was 11 or 12 years old when the toaster broke.
Great point!
What model washer?
Long gone
My washer would not go into spin cycle until open and close lid few times, then will only spin with few clothes in, capacitor seems to hace info erased so i need the capacitor information
There is usually an electrical info sheet under the control panel.
@@mommymilestones Gracias for the information, was usefull
How you know if the switch is bad?
You have to test it with an electric meter. Available at any home repair store or Harbor Freight for around $14 before their 20% off coupon.
touching the two wires on the lid switch with out the magnet- there is no continuity. with the magnet, there is continuity. - Mommy Milestone- you need to add a note to inform about the magnet used when testing the lid switch.
The way you tested it the switch wouldn't be activated anyway
What the model number on this washer thanks in advance
No idea. I fix them and send of to our rental properties or sell them.
i cannot imagine a wife that is willing to do the same repairs that I do and does it as well or better. My last significant other was too entitled to have me repair any appliances. That is why she is an ex. If your hubby doesnt work out call me! :0
I know people like that. They are always unhappy. If it's not one thing it's another and it's always someone else to blame. If I screw it up trying to fix it, it was already broken. If I can fix half of what needs fixing in our life it takes the load off of my husband. There is no reason for anyone to be helpless. Good for you for doing your repairs. It feels good to fix things.
my older ge doesn't have those star heads
Got a unit just like that one, but can't get the model as it was erased. Any one may know it?
what is model number
I sold it after it was repaired. Appliance repair is a side job for me.
+mommymilestones hey ok thanks
Mommymilestones Just purchased a house and the washer and dryer set were left with the home. The washer is identical to the video. Could you please tell me the model number?
Forgive them, for they do not know what they are saying. Perdonalos señor no saben lo que dicen.
I think the repair running appliance says otherwise I forgive you since your new here. Thanks for subscribing and the channel membership!