very helpful. working on a later model (63) and screws have become nuts, like me! But if you are here for the same reason, a swivel between the socket and extension is a must. keep'em alive fellas
This looks like what I need to do for an old 1956 Gale 5HP that I inherited. Tried everything else and that baby won't come out.... will pull the motor next.... talk about a can of worms! Thank you for your video!
Excellent help, thank-you. I just purchased a beautiful 1957 Evinrude 5.5HP in perfect working order except for a weak impeller. Tricky change compared to the newer motors but I've also been told this is why these little guys are still running and the newer models circa 1975 and up don't last.
My 1957 7.5 was working fine when I bought it but took it to test and it wouldn't shift gear took it apart long time ago and now I can get it back on if u finish the video on assembly everything back it will help a lot thanks
Thank you for the video! I've inherited a 1967 Johnson 6HP (model CD-24D). Do you know off hand if this model also requires removal of the powerhead to change the water pump? It does have the shift lever sticking out the side, exactly like the motor in this video.
Hello, thank you for the very informational video! I have a quick question for you on this exact 1957 7.5hp motor. I took the high and low speed jet and knobs out to get the cover off. What is a good starting point to reset both the high and low speed knobs?
Thank you for the video. I sure would like to have seen you reassemble the lower unit back on, since you mentioned something about that water pump tube. Can you recommend a good place to find the seals for the power head, and that base gasket, and maybe water pump tube seals if needed? I picked up an AD-10 7.5 Johnson Seahorse at an estate sale for $50. I plan to freshen up all of the seals and add a carb kit. Coil wire looks fresh, has great compression, and lower unit is a different color, so apparently has been worked on in the past. I have never touched an outboard, but I used to be a pretty decent auto mechanic back in the day. Anything you can suggest - I would appreciate.
I was told that you do not have to remove the powerhead for the model that I have. When I started taking it apart, bolts were breaking off so I ended up taking it to the shop to let the professionals deal with the breaking bolts, and he did not remove the power head. apparently once you drop the lower unit a little, the shift shaft coupler will be exposed and you can then disconnect the shift shaft. Good luck!
You make great videos, I always watch them! I've one question: How do you take off ''gas valve'' thing (the ''bracket'' where you are talking about in this video)?
Hey thank you so much! I have another question for you......I just got done rebuilding the water pump. Everthing turns very easy until I tighten the 4 screws holding the water pump together. Then the shaft seems to tighten up and is hard to turn by hand once the screws are tight. I can't see anything that would cause this to happen. I put a new wear plate in and the old one does the same thing. Something racks once the screws tighten down. What do you think? Run it and it will break in?
I'll bet you used a Sierra impeller instead of an OMC/BRP one. Some of the Sierra (NAPA) ones are slightly thicker than the dealer ones and will bind when tightening the screws down. A light sanding on a belt sander will fix this.
I just want to say thank you very very much for sharing this perticular video as i had to do exactly this on an older Johnson 5.5 to get to remove the gear shaft nuts to get to the impeller in the end.I wonder why they did this weird design that you have to actually lift the whole engine to remove those nuts to be able to remove the gearcase.It was damn easy to do but i just think it´s kind of a weird way to do it.I also bought 2coils from the US for it.Wasn´t that cheap tho Cheers from Sweden
Probably a way for the factory to give their distributors service departments a little bit of extra business by making the replacing of the impellers to hard for the ordinary customer to be able to replace themselves.
i have a 1974 model 6 hp johnson and cannot get the lower unit to drop just by taking off the 4 lower bolts as u showed in the video...do u think i have to take the piwer head off to get it to drop down
no not that model. there is a shift rod clamp. with the 4 bolts off, you can pop it into reverse to expose the lower screw on the clamp to release the lower unit. getting it back on, you will need one of those long flexible pickup tools to put the screw back in or else you will drop it 100x trying to get it in.
got to give you the thumbs up on this vidio,its ,did the job, got a ? do handle forward, reverse etc ,knob, should it be in nuetral, at all time when takeing out the lower , unit,
whats puzzzling , is why the power head, has to be removed, just to take, out the lower unit, just to change a pump, i dont see the conection,,uuuummm, i seen machanice just, take the ower unit off, , then to i guess, that connection rod, slot is not in these motors i guess
Thanks I needed this video. I just got a 1956 CD-13A 1492473 I'm looking forward to rebuilding it for my 12ft jon boat. Where do you get parts? Thanks for sharing.
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video , watched this a few years back and have been successful every time and I've done about 18 of them thank you sir very nice presentation,😁
very helpful. working on a later model (63) and screws have become nuts, like me! But if you are here for the same reason, a swivel between the socket and extension is a must. keep'em alive fellas
Thanks for this video. I removed the 4 lower bolts and wondered why the leg would not pull out. Excellent.
This looks like what I need to do for an old 1956 Gale 5HP that I inherited. Tried everything else and that baby won't come out.... will pull the motor next.... talk about a can of worms!
Thank you for your video!
Thanks very much for this video, very informative. Being serenaded during your operation by your shop cricket was a nice touch too!
Excellent help, thank-you. I just purchased a beautiful 1957 Evinrude 5.5HP in perfect working order except for a weak impeller. Tricky change compared to the newer motors but I've also been told this is why these little guys are still running and the newer models circa 1975 and up don't last.
Thanks for the help went as smooth as glass. 1956 7.5 hp Johnson
I have to work on a 1960 5.5, this really helps! Thank you!
EXCELLENT video. Keep up the great presentations !
Wow i have looked for days how to remove the bottom but now i know. Thanks.
excellent video, i just removed the power head on my 1962 evinrude 5.5hp. Was simple, but im still looking for the gaskets online.
This was a very informative video! My husband needed this video. Thank you!
Very helpful video - I was stumped and this saved me!
I have a Gale buccaneer 1961 5hp I can’t find how to get it off now I do thanks videos on lower unit showing how too are hard to find on buccaneers
My 1957 7.5 was working fine when I bought it but took it to test and it wouldn't shift gear took it apart long time ago and now I can get it back on if u finish the video on assembly everything back it will help a lot thanks
Thank you for the video! I've inherited a 1967 Johnson 6HP (model CD-24D). Do you know off hand if this model also requires removal of the powerhead to change the water pump? It does have the shift lever sticking out the side, exactly like the motor in this video.
Thanks great video, time to pull some wrenches
Very helpfull video, thanks a lot!!
Hello, thank you for the very informational video! I have a quick question for you on this exact 1957 7.5hp motor. I took the high and low speed jet and knobs out to get the cover off. What is a good starting point to reset both the high and low speed knobs?
1 turn out for high speed low speed is 1.5 turns out from lightly seated
Thank you for the video. I sure would like to have seen you reassemble the lower unit back on, since you mentioned something about that water pump tube. Can you recommend a good place to find the seals for the power head, and that base gasket, and maybe water pump tube seals if needed? I picked up an AD-10 7.5 Johnson Seahorse at an estate sale for $50. I plan to freshen up all of the seals and add a carb kit. Coil wire looks fresh, has great compression, and lower unit is a different color, so apparently has been worked on in the past. I have never touched an outboard, but I used to be a pretty decent auto mechanic back in the day. Anything you can suggest - I would appreciate.
I was told that you do not have to remove the powerhead for the model that I have. When I started taking it apart, bolts were breaking off so I ended up taking it to the shop to let the professionals deal with the breaking bolts, and he did not remove the power head. apparently once you drop the lower unit a little, the shift shaft coupler will be exposed and you can then disconnect the shift shaft. Good luck!
Thank you so much for this video
You make great videos, I always watch them!
I've one question: How do you take off ''gas valve'' thing (the ''bracket'' where you are talking about in this video)?
I used this to help me I really appreciate it, I cant seem to get the powerhead back on to the driveshaft. It is driving me nuts any ideas???
This video helped out a lot but I am leaking oil on the lower unit by the 4 bolts. What could cause this?
Great video! Do you leave the motor in Neutral?
These are a snack to work on EASY EASY EASY
Hey thank you so much! I have another question for you......I just got done rebuilding the water pump. Everthing turns very easy until I tighten the 4 screws holding the water pump together. Then the shaft seems to tighten up and is hard to turn by hand once the screws are tight. I can't see anything that would cause this to happen. I put a new wear plate in and the old one does the same thing. Something racks once the screws tighten down. What do you think? Run it and it will break in?
I'll bet you used a Sierra impeller instead of an OMC/BRP one. Some of the Sierra (NAPA) ones are slightly thicker than the dealer ones and will bind when tightening the screws down. A light sanding on a belt sander will fix this.
Where did you source the parts. I need a power head gasket.
Thanks! Destroying my 1958 evinrude 7.5 hp and couldnt remove lower unit or magneto.
excellent Grover!
I just want to say thank you very very much for sharing this perticular video as i had to do exactly this on an older Johnson 5.5 to get to remove the gear shaft nuts to get to the impeller in the end.I wonder why they did this weird design that you have to actually lift the whole engine to remove those nuts to be able to remove the gearcase.It was damn easy to do but i just think it´s kind of a weird way to do it.I also bought 2coils from the US for it.Wasn´t that cheap tho
Cheers from Sweden
Probably a way for the factory to give their distributors service departments a little bit of extra business by making the replacing of the impellers to hard for the ordinary customer to be able to replace themselves.
@@AlaVol66 no lol. just the early design. only family of motors that has it this way
Thanks for making the video!!!!
i have a 1974 model 6 hp johnson and cannot get the lower unit to drop just by taking off the 4 lower bolts as u showed in the video...do u think i have to take the piwer head off to get it to drop down
Yes.
no not that model. there is a shift rod clamp. with the 4 bolts off, you can pop it into reverse to expose the lower screw on the clamp to release the lower unit. getting it back on, you will need one of those long flexible pickup tools to put the screw back in or else you will drop it 100x trying to get it in.
what was the seal that you replaced and where may i find it?
OMC Part # 0303355 Drive shaft to crankcase Gasket. $2.95 at crowleymarine.com. Also at marine engine.com for $2.46.
@101doorguy yes
got to give you the thumbs up on this vidio,its ,did the job, got a ? do handle forward, reverse etc ,knob, should it be in nuetral, at all time when takeing out the lower , unit,
I hear crickets!
whats puzzzling , is why the power head, has to be removed, just to take, out the lower unit, just to change a pump, i dont see the conection,,uuuummm, i seen machanice just, take the ower unit off, , then to i guess, that connection rod, slot is not in these motors i guess
This
Thanks I needed this video. I just got a 1956 CD-13A 1492473 I'm looking forward to rebuilding it for my 12ft jon boat. Where do you get parts? Thanks for sharing.
Crowley Marine crowleymarine.com. has been my go to source.