Yeah I know what you mean, I noticed it too. Something to do with depth of field maybe? Unlike the Runcam2 I usually use which has fixed focus, the osmo pocket has active auto-focus. I also tried it on my big hexacopter and the effect is even more pronounced.
Those clouds are definitely convective so you can expect some vertical air movement. There will be sinking air in between the thermals and the strongest sink is usually close to a thermal.
6:30 If you like to tinker around on electronics, you might want to have a look at OpenHD. It uses Raspberry Pi and (specific) wifi dongles to transmit digital video. Probably wouldn't as great as DJI FPV but it has a ton of feature including telemetry and rc control. Someone get 75 km with 5.8ghz dongle at 600mW, with a big patch antenna of course. But yeah, nothing will ever beat the google from DJI but I really enjoyed it and could use a tablet for the monitor.
I have a groundstation build almost complete with open HD with 5.8 and 2.4ghz plus 5.8 analogue with dvr plus an Ardupilot based antenna tracker in one unit. High power 5.8 adapters are dam hard to Find at the moment and the taobao card is an endangered species and I'm lucky I got my two when I did but there are some 2.4 adapters on aliexpress rated at 500mw but someone tested a bunch and they are putting out between 800 and 1000mw, cost £10 and are available with sma or ipx connectors :) I have one craft kitted with a taobao card and one is in my ground station along with a low power 5.8 but I think the majority of my craft will get 2.4. Pleased with my setup and been very impressed with the video quality of open HD for the price, it's not as good as the DJI systems quality but spanks fatsharks byte frost hands down and a fraction of the cost of both! For cameras I've been getting those ones sold as night vision as they have a removable 12mm thread lens and replaced them with a wide angle ir blocking lens, I have 150 degrees but the cheap pi cam 1.3 is only 60 degrees fov!
Yeah, I agree with the Taobao endangered species, lol. 5.8 cards is quite harder to find. Just found AC56 alternative, that is TP-Link Archer T4U/T4UH but that card is extremely hard to found either. But the good thing with OpenHD is if you broke something, you definitely can fix it by yourself 😉
@@alphaadhito I paid £15 ($20)for each of my taobao cards and there were 5 different sellers on aliexpress with them at the time, now there is just one and they are trying to charge £44 ($60) for one, they can get stuffed at that price lol I check online daily to see of anyone else has them in stock but that seller has been the only one with any for weeks now 😞 I plan to fly on mainly 2.4 Anyway as it has the best range and powerful 2.4 sticks are easily obtained but it would be nice if I could get a couple more air side 5.8 cards
Lots of great info. Very nice how you combined / merged analog OSD and HD video in early flights. It makes for very nice presentation. For the L vs D ratio, using a constant "airspeed" and noting sink rate would give good estimate regardless of wind speed and direction (in smooth air). Am very sure from looking at the clouds (5:20), that your Talon was travelling across thermal activity. The speed was being held constant and altitude trying to be managed by adjusting power. The thermal / sink was just to strong given the motor power range available. If FC allows you to set a wider altitude band vs a hard set value; the variation in motor power would be less variable. Even less so if allowed speed to vary in a band as well. This could also improve flight efficiency. (Less high power in sink, and glide in lift). Another option, if can figure out wind direction at altitude is to travel back and forth aligned with the wind in lift ... a thermal street cruising at low power.
So... If you want the max range of the fsi6 you get 2 pigtails a 5dbi antenna and a 2.4ghz frsky patch antenna. That's about 20.bucks. I managed 9km when flying directly in the patch beam with my old fsi6 :)
Hi, I'm bulding a Talon, it's almost ready for the maiden flight, but my doubt is about how much are the throws on the control surfaces, can anyone give me an advice ? Thanks
Yeah if you've got money to spare, go for the DJI system, you can get about 10km if you have line of sight and any lag issues that you occasionally encounter due to its variable latency setup, are not really noticeable on a wing. Don't bother with the DJI controller though, it's not worth it.
Considering you can build and install ground station on top of your roof you could take a look into OpenHD system and this Talon can handle full Raspberry Pi3 :) Nice flying :)
The problem is the hills right next to the house on two sides. I can't fly in the direction I have permission for, otherwise I would have set something up as soon as I moved here :) I'm actually playing around with video on Raspberry Pi recently, but only for analog out.
@@iforce2d do you mean the pro58? The firmware is broken and diversity does not work on stock firmware but the stock firmware is terrible and basic anyway. WPro58 firmware is the easiest to use in the field and is free, pirx the pilot is also free but tries too hard to be flashy and I found it too irritating, especially the animations and menu timeouts. WPro can also support rx signal osd (the only firmware with Signal osd in flight) with a easily made add on board and external buttons as well :) Achilles firmware costs and it tied to a single RX serial number and cant be put on another without buying a second licence and is even more irritating to use than Pirx the pilot firmware. Both Achilles and Pirx the pilot claim to have an OSD but its only for the menu system and blanks the video when its active, only WPro58 has a in flight Signal strength and antenna in use OSD.
I see in a few shots that you are using a Flysky FS-i6, which apparently allows you to do some quite advanced FPV flying. As a beginner, I'm looking into buying a transmitter and the FS-i6(x) was one of the (cheaper) options. Is that still a radio you would recommend in 2021? Or do you think a newcomer would be better off investing a little more and going for a more recent and versatile OpenTX/Radiomaster option? I'm not afraid of tinkering with open-source software, and the other two options I had in mind were a Jumper T12 Pro or a RadioMaster T16s. Although I cannot help but feel that the T16 would be a bit too much for a beginner.. A bit like buying a VW GTI just after getting my driver's license..
I've only owned FlySky radios so I'm not a great source for comparison, but these seem fine for a newcomer. If anything the low entry price is safer if you end up not really being that interested in this stuff in the long term :) I think the main thing they are lacking is the ability to set up complex mixes, although Andrew Newton has found ways to do the most typical stuff: ruclips.net/video/xt5IdeLdiug/видео.html ruclips.net/video/q953NjiB6uA/видео.html ruclips.net/video/nct8mG7bykg/видео.html One thing I'd like is an audio warning for RSSI low, which these don't have.
@@iforce2d That you've only owned FlySkys seems to be a good argument in favour of them being good enough I'd say. :-) And the price argument makes a lot of sense. I'll have a look at Andrew's videos to see what more I can learn from him. Thank you for the reply!
@@fcspk9882 im gonna be honest im flying flysky since 2016. With some mods you can have a radio nobody has. Mine runs 12 hours on one charhe which basicly means I change it every 2 months. But for only 50 bucks more you will get a jumper t8sg and similar radios that are open source and allow for much more things. I would still recommend running flysky receivers on planes. They are cheap af and have great range combined with a jumper or radiomaster radio
If you're calling the battery a rite off because it won't charge on a smart charger or ballance charger and not because of physical damage then you can parallel it with another battery for a little while to get the voltage above minimum of the charger or use a dumb charger for a short while to get it going before charging on a balance charger.
At 2.4kg it doesn't stall until about 38km/h so there's actually no need to be as worried as I was. Just keep a decent amount of throttle on for the throw.
awesome video sir, helped a lot, i wanted to ask will auto pilot manage throttle on it self or we need to increase / decrease it manually, is there any setting in mission planner so that throttle is controlled automatically, once again thank you sir
If you get one of those digital HD video systems, it'd be excellent if you maybe got something other than the ridiculously priced DJI one. I've seen some Chinese clones now, and some competent reviews would be very handy.
mine 153mah/km compare with 118mah/km very acceptable result because mine 600gr's heavier and 300mm wider (more drag) pulling so much energy because it flying in windy conditions too, but i think i can beat for the flight time (mah/minute) because mine float better than the stanard wingspan, i will try this week :) ouw btw runcam stop recording sudently off can caused by too hot or your bec can't feed enought amps to it (which we all see your voltage already touch 14v) if that right, then you must considering change the bec which it seems not good, because a good bec will delivering stable current althought the voltage get low
There is a setting to automatically power off after some time of not recording. But in my opinion that should not happen if the recording was not intentionally stopped, especially for a camera that is marketed with video out for RC aircraft and FPV usage. I guess I can just disable the auto-power-off completely.
I think your drone bottom plate is made of carbon fibre, which is conductive. So having your antennas parallel to a conductive surface (ground-plane) is not a good idea. Remember the old magnetic cb- radio- antennas that went on the top of your car roof (ground-plane), they stood vertical on the roof. If you would put them horizontal to the car roof, they would be useless.
If it's not a common electrical ground then it might not be called 'ground plane', but that doesn't mean it has no effect. The parasitic elements of a yagi are usually not connected to anything, and neither is the ground plane for a GPS antenna. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator But I'm not convinced what Johan is saying is such a case. The antennas are in a reasonably free air position. Also directivity is important, with yagi it's the whole point of having the passive elements, and with GPS antenna it helps to prevent multipathing (ie. to block off signals from below).
@@iforce2d It is a virtual ground (or reflector) for the rf waves, not an electrical ground. The ground plane makes the monopole antenna more directive (effective). But only when vertical to the ground plane. www.antenna-theory.com/antennas/monopole.php en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whip_antenna
It was doing it predictably for the whole 1.5 hour flight though, in all locations around the mission route. Just look how reliably I'm able to narrate what is about to happen.
I don't know where you heard "87 kilometers" but these are what I was using here: VTX: Eachine ES840 (600mW) Antenna: basic aomway cloverleaf Receiver: fatshark standard goggles module, antennas as shown in the video
@@iforce2d oh nice. I'm using a 5000mah li on 4s pack but it does not seem to give much. It will just drain to 11v within seconds. I also tried a 3s lipo pack and it seems like enough to keep it in the air. Is there anything you would suggest?
Li-ion is not great for delivering high power output. You could increase the overall capacity (I flew this plane on 3S 15000mAh li-ion pack no problems), or maybe try a smaller prop. Even so, to sag that much in seconds seems like the battery is not in good condition.
![☀ Боевой вылет самолета-дальнолета. Тест автономного полета. [Mini Talon 16km LR Flight]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ciMT9kWPzSI/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow! @20:25 the scenery looks like it has been modeled. That's pretty cool!
Yeah I know what you mean, I noticed it too. Something to do with depth of field maybe? Unlike the Runcam2 I usually use which has fixed focus, the osmo pocket has active auto-focus. I also tried it on my big hexacopter and the effect is even more pronounced.
Those clouds are definitely convective so you can expect some vertical air movement. There will be sinking air in between the thermals and the strongest sink is usually close to a thermal.
6:30 If you like to tinker around on electronics, you might want to have a look at OpenHD. It uses Raspberry Pi and (specific) wifi dongles to transmit digital video. Probably wouldn't as great as DJI FPV but it has a ton of feature including telemetry and rc control. Someone get 75 km with 5.8ghz dongle at 600mW, with a big patch antenna of course. But yeah, nothing will ever beat the google from DJI but I really enjoyed it and could use a tablet for the monitor.
I have a groundstation build almost complete with open HD with 5.8 and 2.4ghz plus 5.8 analogue with dvr plus an Ardupilot based antenna tracker in one unit.
High power 5.8 adapters are dam hard to Find at the moment and the taobao card is an endangered species and I'm lucky I got my two when I did but there are some 2.4 adapters on aliexpress rated at 500mw but someone tested a bunch and they are putting out between 800 and 1000mw, cost £10 and are available with sma or ipx connectors :)
I have one craft kitted with a taobao card and one is in my ground station along with a low power 5.8 but I think the majority of my craft will get 2.4.
Pleased with my setup and been very impressed with the video quality of open HD for the price, it's not as good as the DJI systems quality but spanks fatsharks byte frost hands down and a fraction of the cost of both!
For cameras I've been getting those ones sold as night vision as they have a removable 12mm thread lens and replaced them with a wide angle ir blocking lens, I have 150 degrees but the cheap pi cam 1.3 is only 60 degrees fov!
Yeah, I agree with the Taobao endangered species, lol. 5.8 cards is quite harder to find. Just found AC56 alternative, that is TP-Link Archer T4U/T4UH but that card is extremely hard to found either. But the good thing with OpenHD is if you broke something, you definitely can fix it by yourself 😉
@@alphaadhito I paid £15 ($20)for each of my taobao cards and there were 5 different sellers on aliexpress with them at the time, now there is just one and they are trying to charge £44 ($60) for one, they can get stuffed at that price lol
I check online daily to see of anyone else has them in stock but that seller has been the only one with any for weeks now 😞
I plan to fly on mainly 2.4 Anyway as it has the best range and powerful 2.4 sticks are easily obtained but it would be nice if I could get a couple more air side 5.8 cards
@@stevefox3763 the 2.4g adapter.. Was it blue in colour?
Great! where is its center of gravity?
They are really great airframes, the long winged one even better. If the Believer had not come along it would still be my goto
Great to see all my go to channels commenting at eachother's
Lots of great info. Very nice how you combined / merged analog OSD and HD video in early flights. It makes for very nice presentation.
For the L vs D ratio, using a constant "airspeed" and noting sink rate would give good estimate regardless of wind speed and direction (in smooth air).
Am very sure from looking at the clouds (5:20), that your Talon was travelling across thermal activity. The speed was being held constant and altitude trying to be managed by adjusting power. The thermal / sink was just to strong given the motor power range available. If FC allows you to set a wider altitude band vs a hard set value; the variation in motor power would be less variable. Even less so if allowed speed to vary in a band as well. This could also improve flight efficiency. (Less high power in sink, and glide in lift). Another option, if can figure out wind direction at altitude is to travel back and forth aligned with the wind in lift ... a thermal street cruising at low power.
So... If you want the max range of the fsi6 you get 2 pigtails a 5dbi antenna and a 2.4ghz frsky patch antenna. That's about 20.bucks. I managed 9km when flying directly in the patch beam with my old fsi6 :)
dang... DJI footage is so Dope
painting the camera mount background black will reduce this glare coming from Transparent shell
A polarisation filter on the camera might do the trick of getting rid of the reflections
Hi, I'm bulding a Talon, it's almost ready for the maiden flight, but my doubt is about how much are the throws on the control surfaces, can anyone give me an advice ? Thanks
Interesting video...That Osmo exposure was horrific, well up to GoPro black ground standards....lol...🤔🤔🇬🇧
Yeah if you've got money to spare, go for the DJI system, you can get about 10km if you have line of sight and any lag issues that you occasionally encounter due to its variable latency setup, are not really noticeable on a wing.
Don't bother with the DJI controller though, it's not worth it.
The DJI osmo footage is so dope wow
I just got !! Cheap now.. 👊👊💪💪
I was actually building a talon from Eps foam and this pop just as I visit RUclips
Thank you for sharing.
Hi Christ great work, congrats.. I have simple question, what is your AUW (total weight flying)?? What is your battery capacity (Is it 6S)?? Tks
2.4kg, 4S 10Ah
Considering you can build and install ground station on top of your roof you could take a look into OpenHD system and this Talon can handle full Raspberry Pi3 :) Nice flying :)
The problem is the hills right next to the house on two sides. I can't fly in the direction I have permission for, otherwise I would have set something up as soon as I moved here :)
I'm actually playing around with video on Raspberry Pi recently, but only for analog out.
You would love the DJI fpv system!!
Oh no, don't go to the dark side. Stick with analogue FPV. Don't go DJI 😂
go to the cheap side and go Open HD :)
@@stevefox3763 Yeah!
BG was having a special on the cheapie Eachine diversity module ($28!) so I ordered one of those. Seems to be well reviewed.
@@iforce2d do you mean the pro58? The firmware is broken and diversity does not work on stock firmware but the stock firmware is terrible and basic anyway.
WPro58 firmware is the easiest to use in the field and is free, pirx the pilot is also free but tries too hard to be flashy and I found it too irritating, especially the animations and menu timeouts.
WPro can also support rx signal osd (the only firmware with Signal osd in flight) with a easily made add on board and external buttons as well :)
Achilles firmware costs and it tied to a single RX serial number and cant be put on another without buying a second licence and is even more irritating to use than Pirx the pilot firmware.
Both Achilles and Pirx the pilot claim to have an OSD but its only for the menu system and blanks the video when its active, only WPro58 has a in flight Signal strength and antenna in use OSD.
I see in a few shots that you are using a Flysky FS-i6, which apparently allows you to do some quite advanced FPV flying. As a beginner, I'm looking into buying a transmitter and the FS-i6(x) was one of the (cheaper) options.
Is that still a radio you would recommend in 2021? Or do you think a newcomer would be better off investing a little more and going for a more recent and versatile OpenTX/Radiomaster option?
I'm not afraid of tinkering with open-source software, and the other two options I had in mind were a Jumper T12 Pro or a RadioMaster T16s. Although I cannot help but feel that the T16 would be a bit too much for a beginner.. A bit like buying a VW GTI just after getting my driver's license..
I've only owned FlySky radios so I'm not a great source for comparison, but these seem fine for a newcomer. If anything the low entry price is safer if you end up not really being that interested in this stuff in the long term :) I think the main thing they are lacking is the ability to set up complex mixes, although Andrew Newton has found ways to do the most typical stuff:
ruclips.net/video/xt5IdeLdiug/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/q953NjiB6uA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/nct8mG7bykg/видео.html
One thing I'd like is an audio warning for RSSI low, which these don't have.
@@iforce2d That you've only owned FlySkys seems to be a good argument in favour of them being good enough I'd say. :-) And the price argument makes a lot of sense. I'll have a look at Andrew's videos to see what more I can learn from him. Thank you for the reply!
@@fcspk9882 im gonna be honest im flying flysky since 2016. With some mods you can have a radio nobody has. Mine runs 12 hours on one charhe which basicly means I change it every 2 months. But for only 50 bucks more you will get a jumper t8sg and similar radios that are open source and allow for much more things. I would still recommend running flysky receivers on planes. They are cheap af and have great range combined with a jumper or radiomaster radio
@@peterzingler6221 Thank you for the tips!
If you're calling the battery a rite off because it won't charge on a smart charger or ballance charger and not because of physical damage then you can parallel it with another battery for a little while to get the voltage above minimum of the charger or use a dumb charger for a short while to get it going before charging on a balance charger.
Super 👍
Thanks for this. I'd been wondering about putting the Osmo pocket on a plane.
i just got me one of these 2nd hand, looking forward to trying it. unfortunately i don't have the luxury of the slope lol
At 2.4kg it doesn't stall until about 38km/h so there's actually no need to be as worried as I was. Just keep a decent amount of throttle on for the throw.
@@iforce2d good to know
This is nice!
Every luv got it's lee :)
How bug can a box it carry if you were to make a cargo bay??
awesome video sir, helped a lot, i wanted to ask will auto pilot manage throttle on it self or we need to increase / decrease it manually, is there any setting in mission planner so that throttle is controlled automatically, once again thank you sir
Sounds like you need to read some docs
ardupilot.org/plane/docs/flight-modes.html
If you get one of those digital HD video systems, it'd be excellent if you maybe got something other than the ridiculously priced DJI one. I've seen some Chinese clones now, and some competent reviews would be very handy.
enable windspeed on your OSD setup.
Hello!
So, what is total efficiency?
How much mAh did you drain and how much km did you flown?
Thanks!
12:49
Don't bother with FSK RF links, just flash some Jumper R900 receivers and a R9M module to ExpressLRS and go LoRa :)
Are you able to do flat turns using a vtail? I am curious about how much rudder authority Vtail provides.
I'm not a big rudder user but to me it seems about the same.
Wow, beautiful Chris
crossfire is great
express lrs, too
xf can be used with the fsi6
Yeah but you would need the big xf the micro doesn't allow changes via flysky
4:50 Back side of the power curve?
Cool.....
mine 153mah/km compare with 118mah/km very acceptable result because mine 600gr's heavier and 300mm wider (more drag) pulling so much energy because it flying in windy conditions too, but i think i can beat for the flight time (mah/minute) because mine float better than the stanard wingspan, i will try this week :)
ouw btw runcam stop recording sudently off can caused by too hot or your bec can't feed enought amps to it (which we all see your voltage already touch 14v) if that right, then you must considering change the bec which it seems not good, because a good bec will delivering stable current althought the voltage get low
There is a setting to automatically power off after some time of not recording. But in my opinion that should not happen if the recording was not intentionally stopped, especially for a camera that is marketed with video out for RC aircraft and FPV usage. I guess I can just disable the auto-power-off completely.
Let's be Honest just watched the last 6min :D
Software update will fix the runcam sd card full thingy...
I think your drone bottom plate is made of carbon fibre, which is conductive.
So having your antennas parallel to a conductive surface (ground-plane) is not a good idea.
Remember the old magnetic cb- radio- antennas that went on the top of your car roof (ground-plane), they stood vertical on the roof. If you would put them horizontal to the car roof, they would be useless.
Does it matter if the "ground plane" is not a common electrical ground with the transmitter?
If it's not a common electrical ground then it might not be called 'ground plane', but that doesn't mean it has no effect. The parasitic elements of a yagi are usually not connected to anything, and neither is the ground plane for a GPS antenna.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator
But I'm not convinced what Johan is saying is such a case. The antennas are in a reasonably free air position. Also directivity is important, with yagi it's the whole point of having the passive elements, and with GPS antenna it helps to prevent multipathing (ie. to block off signals from below).
@@iforce2d It is a virtual ground (or reflector) for the rf waves, not an electrical ground. The ground plane makes the monopole antenna more directive (effective). But only when vertical to the ground plane.
www.antenna-theory.com/antennas/monopole.php
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whip_antenna
How do you stay so calm when the camera turned off!? I would have been a nervous wreck 😂
Well it was flying for an hour already and I wasn't watching it most of the time anyway :)
hi what motor are you uising on it
3536 900kv
I agree thermal..
It was doing it predictably for the whole 1.5 hour flight though, in all locations around the mission route. Just look how reliably I'm able to narrate what is about to happen.
Check out Open HD for a cheap DIY Digital HD system which supports 2.4 and 5.8ghz video and 1080p :)
I can recommend going DJI FPV and using a analogue adapter kit for older gear that you haven't upgraded.
digidapter for the goggles
but i don't think he's using fatshark style modules
Hi Sir, Could tell me your Video setup?
VTX?
Antenna?
Receiver of your VTX that allows you to go 87kilometers.
Thanks..
I don't know where you heard "87 kilometers" but these are what I was using here:
VTX: Eachine ES840 (600mW)
Antenna: basic aomway cloverleaf
Receiver: fatshark standard goggles module, antennas as shown in the video
@@iforce2d thanks Man.. cool...
Where is the cg?
I'm using 100mm from leading edge.
@@iforce2d oh nice. I'm using a 5000mah li on 4s pack but it does not seem to give much. It will just drain to 11v within seconds. I also tried a 3s lipo pack and it seems like enough to keep it in the air. Is there anything you would suggest?
Li-ion is not great for delivering high power output. You could increase the overall capacity (I flew this plane on 3S 15000mAh li-ion pack no problems), or maybe try a smaller prop. Even so, to sag that much in seconds seems like the battery is not in good condition.
@@iforce2d oh ok thank you :) that info is very helpful
@@iforce2d oh ok thank you :) that info is very helpful
Dennis Pagan said thermals have a wide area of downdraft outside the central updraft.
Writing software to core a thermal might be a challenge.