Thank you for watching me struggle through this repair. Onto the next series. Thank you to everyone that has sent helpful comments. Would anyone be interested in me fixing an older Chevy Pickup Truck? Thinking about it. Thanks for watching. Amazon Affiliate Links to recommended tools: Fuel Pressure Gauge, Compucheck 0-300 psi: amzn.to/3YeBldu Airlift Cooling System Vacuum Filling System: amzn.to/3D9AlPu Radiator Pressure Tester Kit: amzn.to/3QGBumn Milwaukee 3/8" Right Angle Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3D2CvAk
It is a relief to know other very talented mechanics such as yourself struggle with problem children from time to time. Every time I get a service call to go check out a basket case truck the other guys couldn’t figure out I have to rethink my career path. Thank you for your videos and keep up the great work! 👍🏻
V-Band tightening trick: Yes, never sneeze helped lube the clamp to slide & adjust but, Once flange sealing surfaces are aligned & clamp installed & initially tightened, get a small ball-pein hammer. Think of the T-bolt side of the clamp as 12 o'clock. Begin tapping with the hammer at the 6 o'clock position then 4 o'clock & 8 o'clock. Tighten the T-bolt some more (it will be looser). Do that for several rounds all the way on both sides to near the T-bolt area. It will need to be tightened several times as the clamp sinks into the grooves deeper & deeper, wedging the flanges closer & tighter together. I learned this at an engineering/research facility, where engines ran for many hrs. & down time was very limited & bad! So we fixed them on the fly! At higher power leaks were easy to find with a shop rag on a stick or you could hear them whistling. This was slightly hazardous but was before Safety nazis monitored the test cells with cameras or locked the test cell during engine operations, plus the engines ran at 1200 to 1600 rpm, Not max rpm/racing. Good show of persistence!
Surprised your not using an evap system smoke tester for leak detection. Not terribly expensive anymore. Smoke and a strong polarized light works well with even smaller leaks and the flow guage is useful in determining the severity of the leak(s).
I was taught to tighten clamps a little, tap around them with a hammer, tighten a little more, then more taps and so on till tightened fully, it helps the clamp seat properly and pushes it down tighter pulling the surfaces together more,,, prolly wouldn't have helped in your situation though,,,,, that goat is the GOAT ,, dont ever lose him haha,
I found taking a mallet and tapping the clamp after tightening it then tightening again does seat it better. Try to torque it to the specs after that and see if it does tighten more. Worth a try. would have liked to seen the smoker used to see if any more leaks could be seen, used one to see intake manifold leaks.
this one was pretty funny.. I'm all for fixing it right, but when right doesn't work, there is always the dark side! haha.. I would have done the same, definitely if the money to replace the turbo was coming out of my pocket. Great work, and thanks for bringing us along on this one.
I am going to teach you a trick maybe you do this maybe you don't. Tap around the outside of the clamp with a hammer. Basically as hard as you would tap a nail to walk it into green pine 2x4. So some force but not killing it. Walk around back and forth all the way are the clamp. Use a prybar if it is in a tight spot. Tighten it. Do it 3x. You may already do this and just didn't say this time around. Also for cleaning the clamp groove where it sits. Get it down to shiny. Also using a thin graphite or tin gasket like you find inbetween dpfs can help as well. I have had some luck with DPF aluminum tape that international used on it's DPFs. Then there is the buy thin soft copper sheet and basically put it inbetween. Max would be 1/16th thickness sheet copper. There is also the spray copper gasket stuff but from the video on my TV it looked like it might be too deep. There is a permanent fix way called acoustaseal but once it's together. It's together there is no taking it apart again. Hope this helps.
We use the same clamps on aircraft. We install the clamp, then tap it in different spots with a hammer to seat it, continue tightening, and repeat until you feel it's tight.
"Tremors" one of the best movies. There is a stainless steel tape that works to seal up joints like that. Once the clamp is on over the tape it will stay in place.
We got 10 acres behind our shop that's heavily wooded and every year we have a ton of mantis babies that are underneath our lights on the back of the building probably catching bugs at night but it's pretty neat see a couple hundred of them on the back of your building just hanging around
Get a finishing stone for cleaning sealing/mating faces instead of a sanding block. They're super cheap and what we use in the machine shop. It'll knock down high spots without scoring the surface and ruining the surface. You can also try tapping those flange clamps with a small hammer while you're tightening it, sometimes it helps everything find a home. Owner pinching too many pennies is going to cost him a lot sooner or later. The fact that its a day cab says a lot. 😂
I would like to suggest using a cheap oil stone for cleaning the turbo mating face, rather than a sanding block. You can buy them at Harbor Freight for a few dollars. They are 8 inches long, about 3 inches wide and a bit over an inch thick. There is a fine and coarse side. Use some WD-40 or CRC for lube and go over the pitted surface in a circular motion. When done, switch to the fine side to finish up. They also work great for removing stuck on gaskets from iron/steel and aluminum surfaces. It abrades the gasket away and works best in the parts washer with constant liquid flow.
What a nightmare, there’s nothing more aggravating than taking the same thing apart 3 times in a row and still not getting it. Leaks of any kind suck, keep on fighting brother 👍
you know this is a serious video when josh doesnt recall attempting to destroy the turbo with rtv 😂 still kudos josh for trudging on these one, ive also learned many more tricks for the hat in the comment of this series! keep em coming, even tho i work fixing cars, i still enjoy watching more about it 😅
Hi Joshua. Realy enjoy your videos. Think you Are professional and thorough in your work. Pro tip on these style clamps is i always tighten them, then give them a round of knocking with a ball peen hammer around the outer diameter. This in order to Get the v-band to Seat properly, and Shake loose any rust left on the flanges. Then i tighten the clamp to specs again. After the knocking my experiense is that the clamps Seat better, and seal better. Best regards heavy Equipment and oilfield service engineer for 20 plus years in northern Norway 👍😊 keep up making the good content💪 really enjoy your channel🤩
Josh, 2 things: EPA testing at GM we took the clam shell parts out of the clamps and welded them to Vice-Grip jaws for quick connect & disconnect. AND whenever we had a failure we had to repeat the test and average the two for a good test. We were not allowed to test and test and test until we finally one to pass. ben/ michigan higan
It's quite soothing sitting here in NZ on a sunday morning watching someone else dealing with recurring problems. I was called in yesterday in check a burnt out starter that is only a month old. It was replaced with out anyone diagnosing why it burnt out in the first place.
I'm would have tried some lapping compound, and then clean thoroughly.....reading through the comments, others would have tried this as well. That side of the engine looks like hell to work on.....your a good man to keep calm working on that.
This video now makes it where I lose count on how many times I thank my lucky stars I purchased a truck tractor without this emissions excrement. I have essentially been renovating when will continue to renovate for probably another couple years my 2000 Freightliner Century with a 1999 Cummins n14 engine. Regens are undefined withthis vehicle.
When iv worked on 6.0 powerstrokes i found the best way to clean up turbo housings was sand blasting. Also id hate to be the next guy that has to split those gray silicone glued joints😂. Btdt with electrical connectors, turned into a repin with a new connector.
I've had that same problem before and I've taken and rolled up a small sheet of aluminum foil enough to go over both the joints and down along the clamp face. Good luck!
I had an 08 Pete 386 with the c13 cat and I had one of those oil lines rub the turbo housing and blew in a construction zone and I couldn’t pull other for a while. I had oil EVERYWHERE!😂
Would've recommended to check relative compression and run an overhead. Usually it's a poorly performing engine that struggles to boost rather than some minimal leaks. Another helpful strategy is to step away from it and reassess your clues, as it's so easy to get tricked in a rabbit hole after finding a problem but not the problem.
Enjoy your weekend with all your family around you Adept Ape Brilliant video Thanks for sharing it with us 👍 SHREWD Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 18:55pm Good Evening
Might sound crazy, but its possible the intake manifold air pressure sensor is plugged up with soot giving a false reading. Cummins would be the same way and sometimes fail regens. Overtime that soot will build up inside the sensor. I would take a q tip with isopropyl alcohol and clean it, give it a few gentle taps on a table to drop the soot tucked up inside of it. Once it's dry, installed it back in manifold. Fire the truck up then it do a full regen. You wont necessarily have a check engine or code for this sensor so long as it has a reading of airflow. Generally codes for IMAP sensors are for open circuits or bad sensors however can fix a variety of problems due to faulty reading from charged air going into the intake.
Go to hearth and fireplace store - and get yourself some of those sealing ropes for wood fired fireplaces. Because you will not find asbestos packing anywhere anymore.
Thanks Josh for bringing us along on one of the most frustrating parts of our job! I'm amazed that the customer hasn't went to the dark side and had this one deleted. So many of them have by now. I use the antiseeze on the vband clamps too and whe they get installed I tighten them up then wack them with an 8 ounce hammer to tighten them up more then hit the clamp nut again. It helps a bunch! Also can you find out where you get the air pipe block off that you had on the engine side of your air system? I'd like to get the boss to buy us one too. Our air line pressurization kit is getting pretty beat up and I'd like a better setup. Thanks for the video and pain for us.
If you have a lathe at your shop, they're not hard to make. Took me about 1/2 a day to make mine from some scrap aluminum I had laying around the scrap pile.
Having been in this business a long time, I sympathize. You fix a leak here, then the pressure is back to normal and all the other old, weak parts leak or blow outright. Which as far as the customer is concerned it's your fault as you last worked on it. Generally, old machines have many problems just from being old, and you are supposed to have fixed them first time round. Just looking at the corrosion, I've got a feeling this engine was parked for a long time, probably because it had a problem which the original owner didn't want to fix it at the time. So he sold it. Now it needs to be revived, and it's your problem now.
Great content as usual Josh, really enjoy watching! I work on trucks in the UK and Although they aren't CAT I learn a lot especially diagnostic techniques from you. Look forward to the next one. 🇬🇧🔧🚚🤙
We use air pressure to leak-test hydraulic units we rebuild after function test and use a regulator like you do to prevent kabooms. We also use a different air connector on the test fitting end so full shop air can't connect easily or by accident.
They do run that under load or while driving. just not when it’s only trying to do a regen. It just needs some air flow to regen, not really much pressure
We have to replace the turbos and the compression clamps. Using locktite is a BIG no-no 😱 I suppose it's up to the customer on your end though. At the Seguin facility we only have one option
What a nightmare! One product I use for sealing stuff is Threebond (AKA Yamabond, Permatex Motoseal) which has more of a latex rubber texture. I use it on nearly everything, but only a VERY light skim. It's designed for stuff that needs to come apart, especially 2 stroke crankcases that are metal to metal. After the light skim I let it cure for a while before assembly if I don't want it squeezing out.
I do this on armoured vehicles and it can be frustrating to find leaks. The greatest tool ive seen is the sonic leak detector its a must have for tool box now I point and find the leak in seconds with no issues.
Does your shop have a bead blaster? That would eliminate the corrosion problems on the housings and ducts where the clamps interface. I've found that bead blasting and lubing band clamp joints usually always results in a leak-free, sealer-free joint.
ps, other people have mentioned this but a smoke machine would be quite useful-plus the flow gauge can help you determine how big the leak is (so you arent guessing as much)
When I have to use av gasket I would let it sit it seems to help it. But with the air leak it will help gather mass within the system and finally seal. But you’re patients are great
Forget that copper anti-seize Josh. Go right for some JB Weld on those clamps and your worries are over. The next guy that has to work on it though...not so much!
Yeah, up here in the great rusty northeast, "touch nothing you dont absolutely have to" was and is the prime directive. Sometimes even that isnt good enough, I swear Ive had brake lines start to leak, and plastiv pcv lines crack just from the stress of having been observed.
With what they spent on your labor to keep pulling parts off and cleaning and putting back on multiple times they probably could have replaced the part that was bad ! I hate doing a job that you have to band aid because you know deep down its not going to last ! But your limited to what the customer wants I understand ! Great job ! Great troubleshooting ! 👍👍
I've had a turbo leak coolant from the center section into the compressor housing. customer had replaced most of the egr system ($$$😢) himself before bringing it to me for diagnosis.
Try tapping on those flange clamps with a hammer after initial tightening. It helps force the clamp ways down intern tightening the mating surfaces. You can also tap on the two pieces to create vibration to relieve the stress and help draw them together.
Another trick I learned on airplanes is you tighten the bleed air clamp, tap around the clamp with a hammer, tighten it more, tap on it more to seat it the best you can. Surprisingly trucks don't use gaskets on those clamp joints.
Hey just wanted to let you know we buy a high temp epoxy from our dealer cat dealer for exhaust. I have had really good luck with it. I don't the cat number. Made by loctite.
When I worked on Air compressors I had a 12 inch square steel plate that was machined flat so I can use wet sandpaper on to lap components, valve plates. Also there is 3M stainless steel tape you can buy and cut to size to wrap around joints then place clamp on. Kind of a field repair for corroded components but it seals.
That's not only one can of worms, that's whole wormfarm. Throwing a granade at it and rebuild it from scratch might would be easier, buuut, admiring the effort, enteraining but then very useful in problem solving techniques... thanks
Clamp can't tighten enough due to rust buildup on outside surface where it grabs onto. Also the flange mating surfaces are worn thinner due to rust pitting and then sanding to make them smooth. That makes it necessary for the clamp to be able to get a deeper grip. A thin metal shim (custom made sealing ring) placed as a gasket between the flange mating surface should make up the difference and allow the clamp to do its thing.
To me it looks like the V band clamps are bottoming out, if they bottom out the clamp is not squeezing the faces together. Take the clamp off and press the v back closed or try new clamps. I've had this happen with these clamps after a couple of tightening cycles, worth a shot.
Yep technically you're not supposed to reuse them, I've never tried to bend the V-back into shape though.. I also put oil inside the clamp to help it slide over the flange. Volvo service actually says to do that.
Can of smoke or a burning incents stick is good for finding leaks (don't use on petrol or LPG engines for volitility of those fuels, diesel is pretty safe). Soapy water works but messy. Stethiscope is handy too.
So my thought is that your using 'V' bands to clamp the parts together. Thus you would need a minimum thickness on the flanges. Since the turbo compressor housing was so corroded that the flange became thinner, then you flat sanded the face, making it yet thinner. Thus it will never seal properly, but did improve when you try sealers which will eventually blow out. A proper solution would have been to place a shim gasket between the flange joints, this would have spread the flanges apart and allowed the clamp to pull them together tighter. Thus eliminating the leaks ;)
I love to hate gasket maker of ALL types. The fix on that turbo may last a while, but in the end yea that truck needs a new one sooner rather than later. Combining a new turbo with a tow bill is going to suck a lot for the owner.
Thank you for watching me struggle through this repair. Onto the next series. Thank you to everyone that has sent helpful comments. Would anyone be interested in me fixing an older Chevy Pickup Truck? Thinking about it. Thanks for watching. Amazon Affiliate Links to recommended tools: Fuel Pressure Gauge, Compucheck 0-300 psi: amzn.to/3YeBldu
Airlift Cooling System Vacuum Filling System: amzn.to/3D9AlPu
Radiator Pressure Tester Kit: amzn.to/3QGBumn
Milwaukee 3/8" Right Angle Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3D2CvAk
I would be very interested in watching you fix up a Chevy!
ABSOLUTELY! Always look forward to watching your uploads!
Yes please josh
Update on the "trash fire" international??, you mentioned it a few videos ago, very interested in the outcome.
Pickup? Yes, please!
It is a relief to know other very talented mechanics such as yourself struggle with problem children from time to time. Every time I get a service call to go check out a basket case truck the other guys couldn’t figure out I have to rethink my career path. Thank you for your videos and keep up the great work! 👍🏻
V-Band tightening trick: Yes, never sneeze helped lube the clamp to slide & adjust but, Once flange sealing surfaces are aligned & clamp installed & initially tightened, get a small ball-pein hammer. Think of the T-bolt side of the clamp as 12 o'clock. Begin tapping with the hammer at the 6 o'clock position then 4 o'clock & 8 o'clock. Tighten the T-bolt some more (it will be looser). Do that for several rounds all the way on both sides to near the T-bolt area. It will need to be tightened several times as the clamp sinks into the grooves deeper & deeper, wedging the flanges closer & tighter together. I learned this at an engineering/research facility, where engines ran for many hrs. & down time was very limited & bad! So we fixed them on the fly! At higher power leaks were easy to find with a shop rag on a stick or you could hear them whistling. This was slightly hazardous but was before Safety nazis monitored the test cells with cameras or locked the test cell during engine operations, plus the engines ran at 1200 to 1600 rpm, Not max rpm/racing. Good show of persistence!
Guaranteed that thing will be back next week!!!
Surprised your not using an evap system smoke tester for leak detection. Not terribly expensive anymore. Smoke and a strong polarized light works well with even smaller leaks and the flow guage is useful in determining the severity of the leak(s).
The movie references really killed me😂 Your a cool guy man👍😎
I was taught to tighten clamps a little, tap around them with a hammer, tighten a little more, then more taps and so on till tightened fully, it helps the clamp seat properly and pushes it down tighter pulling the surfaces together more,,, prolly wouldn't have helped in your situation though,,,,, that goat is the GOAT ,, dont ever lose him haha,
Live and learn and try your best! That's all we can do! 🤷♂️ Thanks for coming in today Fella 👌
I found taking a mallet and tapping the clamp after tightening it then tightening again does seat it better. Try to torque it to the specs after that and see if it does tighten more. Worth a try. would have liked to seen the smoker used to see if any more leaks could be seen, used one to see intake manifold leaks.
I use a brass hammer to tap the clamps.
Same, i always tap the clamps after tightening it. If possible i do it 1 more time after running the thing also-
I always check to see if the "V" band is bottomed out from excessive erosion also.
this one was pretty funny..
I'm all for fixing it right, but when right doesn't work, there is always the dark side! haha.. I would have done the same, definitely if the money to replace the turbo was coming out of my pocket.
Great work, and thanks for bringing us along on this one.
I am going to teach you a trick maybe you do this maybe you don't. Tap around the outside of the clamp with a hammer. Basically as hard as you would tap a nail to walk it into green pine 2x4. So some force but not killing it. Walk around back and forth all the way are the clamp. Use a prybar if it is in a tight spot. Tighten it. Do it 3x. You may already do this and just didn't say this time around. Also for cleaning the clamp groove where it sits. Get it down to shiny. Also using a thin graphite or tin gasket like you find inbetween dpfs can help as well. I have had some luck with DPF aluminum tape that international used on it's DPFs. Then there is the buy thin soft copper sheet and basically put it inbetween. Max would be 1/16th thickness sheet copper. There is also the spray copper gasket stuff but from the video on my TV it looked like it might be too deep.
There is a permanent fix way called acoustaseal but once it's together. It's together there is no taking it apart again.
Hope this helps.
We use the same clamps on aircraft. We install the clamp, then tap it in different spots with a hammer to seat it, continue tightening, and repeat until you feel it's tight.
"Tremors" one of the best movies. There is a stainless steel tape that works to seal up joints like that. Once the clamp is on over the tape it will stay in place.
We got 10 acres behind our shop that's heavily wooded and every year we have a ton of mantis babies that are underneath our lights on the back of the building probably catching bugs at night but it's pretty neat see a couple hundred of them on the back of your building just hanging around
This green can o worms series was great, now I'm hoping we see a part 4 when it comes back. 😅
Just be glad all those regens are saving the planet 😂
Get a finishing stone for cleaning sealing/mating faces instead of a sanding block. They're super cheap and what we use in the machine shop. It'll knock down high spots without scoring the surface and ruining the surface.
You can also try tapping those flange clamps with a small hammer while you're tightening it, sometimes it helps everything find a home.
Owner pinching too many pennies is going to cost him a lot sooner or later. The fact that its a day cab says a lot. 😂
I would like to suggest using a cheap oil stone for cleaning the turbo mating face, rather than a sanding block. You can buy them at Harbor Freight for a few dollars. They are 8 inches long, about 3 inches wide and a bit over an inch thick. There is a fine and coarse side. Use some WD-40 or CRC for lube and go over the pitted surface in a circular motion. When done, switch to the fine side to finish up. They also work great for removing stuck on gaskets from iron/steel and aluminum surfaces. It abrades the gasket away and works best in the parts washer with constant liquid flow.
This truck needs decals on both sides of the hood that say "Abandon all hope ye who enter".
I love the tremors references. Always was a huge fan of that movie.
Maybe you could find a machine shop to just clean up the flanges of the turbo housing where you still get leaks.
What a nightmare, there’s nothing more aggravating than taking the same thing apart 3 times in a row and still not getting it. Leaks of any kind suck, keep on fighting brother 👍
It's great that you show work that is not a total success, or at leat not to your satisfaction. Because that is reality, that's life, sometimes.
Love the Kevin Bacon Tremors clip, perfect expression for the frustration. :)
you know this is a serious video when josh doesnt recall attempting to destroy the turbo with rtv 😂
still kudos josh for trudging on these one, ive also learned many more tricks for the hat in the comment of this series! keep em coming, even tho i work fixing cars, i still enjoy watching more about it 😅
Hi Joshua. Realy enjoy your videos. Think you Are professional and thorough in your work. Pro tip on these style clamps is i always tighten them, then give them a round of knocking with a ball peen hammer around the outer diameter. This in order to Get the v-band to Seat properly, and Shake loose any rust left on the flanges. Then i tighten the clamp to specs again. After the knocking my experiense is that the clamps Seat better, and seal better. Best regards heavy Equipment and oilfield service engineer for 20 plus years in northern Norway 👍😊 keep up making the good content💪 really enjoy your channel🤩
Bet you are glad to see that one go... It SUCKS pulling stuff apart time and time again.
Josh, 2 things: EPA testing at GM we took the clam shell parts out of the clamps and welded them to Vice-Grip jaws for quick connect & disconnect. AND whenever we had a failure we had to repeat the test and average the two for a good test. We were not allowed to test and test and test until we finally one to pass. ben/ michigan higan
It's quite soothing sitting here in NZ on a sunday morning watching someone else dealing with recurring problems. I was called in yesterday in check a burnt out starter that is only a month old. It was replaced with out anyone diagnosing why it burnt out in the first place.
A can of worms is right. Great video and thank you. Jim
I'll give you credit for staying with it.
FWIW… 4 suggestions:
1) if you’re going to use anti-seize on exhaust components - Walter Surface Technologies Rock ‘n Roll.
I'm would have tried some lapping compound, and then clean thoroughly.....reading through the comments, others would have tried this as well. That side of the engine looks like hell to work on.....your a good man to keep calm working on that.
Work sucks. It’s Saturday, im going fishing.
This video now makes it where I lose count on how many times I thank my lucky stars I purchased a truck tractor without this emissions excrement.
I have essentially been renovating when will continue to renovate for probably another couple years my 2000 Freightliner Century with a 1999 Cummins n14 engine. Regens are undefined withthis vehicle.
When iv worked on 6.0 powerstrokes i found the best way to clean up turbo housings was sand blasting. Also id hate to be the next guy that has to split those gray silicone glued joints😂. Btdt with electrical connectors, turned into a repin with a new connector.
I've had that same problem before and I've taken and rolled up a small sheet of aluminum foil enough to go over both the joints and down along the clamp face. Good luck!
Great video, love the added clips. Thanks for the content!
Miss the old school pre emission stuff. Was so much simpler and cheaper to fix. Keep up the good work Josh. This one drove you nuts I'm sure
That mantis wasn’t praying you startled him. He was about to go full Wick on you.
I had an 08 Pete 386 with the c13 cat and I had one of those oil lines rub the turbo housing and blew in a construction zone and I couldn’t pull other for a while. I had oil EVERYWHERE!😂
I enjoy your videos,I was a mic and did diesel mechanic Rop back in my day
Would've recommended to check relative compression and run an overhead. Usually it's a poorly performing engine that struggles to boost rather than some minimal leaks. Another helpful strategy is to step away from it and reassess your clues, as it's so easy to get tricked in a rabbit hole after finding a problem but not the problem.
That clamp(241-2634) and the bellow(270-8524) it attaches to are awful to change. That bellow always seems to break if its not on the perfect angle.
Good lesson for me to learn, thank you!
Enjoy your weekend with all your family around you Adept Ape
Brilliant video Thanks for sharing it with us
👍
SHREWD Adept Ape
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 18:55pm Good Evening
Thank you so much Nick.
You are a patient human being!!! Thanks for the help good sir!!!
Surprised no one had recommended anaerobic sealer on the joints. It is my go to if anti-seize doesn't work.
Might sound crazy, but its possible the intake manifold air pressure sensor is plugged up with soot giving a false reading. Cummins would be the same way and sometimes fail regens. Overtime that soot will build up inside the sensor. I would take a q tip with isopropyl alcohol and clean it, give it a few gentle taps on a table to drop the soot tucked up inside of it.
Once it's dry, installed it back in manifold. Fire the truck up then it do a full regen.
You wont necessarily have a check engine or code for this sensor so long as it has a reading of airflow. Generally codes for IMAP sensors are for open circuits or bad sensors however can fix a variety of problems due to faulty reading from charged air going into the intake.
Go to hearth and fireplace store - and get yourself some of those sealing ropes for wood fired fireplaces.
Because you will not find asbestos packing anywhere anymore.
Thanks Josh for bringing us along on one of the most frustrating parts of our job! I'm amazed that the customer hasn't went to the dark side and had this one deleted. So many of them have by now. I use the antiseeze on the vband clamps too and whe they get installed I tighten them up then wack them with an 8 ounce hammer to tighten them up more then hit the clamp nut again. It helps a bunch! Also can you find out where you get the air pipe block off that you had on the engine side of your air system? I'd like to get the boss to buy us one too. Our air line pressurization kit is getting pretty beat up and I'd like a better setup. Thanks for the video and pain for us.
If you have a lathe at your shop, they're not hard to make. Took me about 1/2 a day to make mine from some scrap aluminum I had laying around the scrap pile.
The silicone red headed stepchild still helped out even after years of verbal abuse
Having been in this business a long time,
I sympathize.
You fix a leak here, then the pressure is back to normal and all the other old, weak parts leak or blow outright.
Which as far as the customer is concerned it's your fault as you last worked on it.
Generally, old machines have many problems just from being old, and you are supposed to have fixed them first time round.
Just looking at the corrosion, I've got a feeling this engine was parked for a long time, probably because it had a problem which the original owner didn't want to fix it at the time. So he sold it.
Now it needs to be revived, and it's your problem now.
Great content as usual Josh, really enjoy watching! I work on trucks in the UK and Although they aren't CAT I learn a lot especially diagnostic techniques from you. Look forward to the next one. 🇬🇧🔧🚚🤙
We use air pressure to leak-test hydraulic units we rebuild after function test and use a regulator like you do to prevent kabooms. We also use a different air connector on the test fitting end so full shop air can't connect easily or by accident.
You should try pulling a vacuum on it, then take a small fog machine and spray the fog over all your suspect connectors.
That's surprisingly low boost pressure for a truck; I was expecting a lot more.
Like 20-30psi or 14,7psi at the least.
You don't really need much air flow to regen.
They do run that under load or while driving. just not when it’s only trying to do a regen. It just needs some air flow to regen, not really much pressure
Short of replacement you could try a machine shop resurfacing the flanges, personally I’d be replacing the whole system I hate leaks lol
Rust really did a lot of damage to that system for sure glad you got it going.
We have to replace the turbos and the compression clamps. Using locktite is a BIG no-no 😱 I suppose it's up to the customer on your end though. At the Seguin facility we only have one option
What a nightmare!
One product I use for sealing stuff is Threebond (AKA Yamabond, Permatex Motoseal) which has more of a latex rubber texture. I use it on nearly everything, but only a VERY light skim. It's designed for stuff that needs to come apart, especially 2 stroke crankcases that are metal to metal. After the light skim I let it cure for a while before assembly if I don't want it squeezing out.
I do this on armoured vehicles and it can be frustrating to find leaks. The greatest tool ive seen is the sonic leak detector its a must have for tool box now I point and find the leak in seconds with no issues.
Does your shop have a bead blaster? That would eliminate the corrosion problems on the housings and ducts where the clamps interface. I've found that bead blasting and lubing band clamp joints usually always results in a leak-free, sealer-free joint.
@00:24 Fafo - fool around and find out? I don't think that's quite right 😂
ps, other people have mentioned this but a smoke machine would be quite useful-plus the flow gauge can help you determine how big the leak is (so you arent guessing as much)
I always go around and tap the clamp as much as I can then tighten it and tap again and tighten again
When I have to use av gasket I would let it sit it seems to help it. But with the air leak it will help gather mass within the system and finally seal. But you’re patients are great
Forget that copper anti-seize Josh. Go right for some JB Weld on those clamps and your worries are over. The next guy that has to work on it though...not so much!
Great work , too bad your customer wasn't down to do a single turbo swap. Keep it up the good attitude sir regardless of the pain
Great work josh on a horrible job, love your sense of humour 👍🇮🇪
Blimey What a nightmare job .at least you hot it to seal some what to get the regen done 😮.
You get all the good jobs 👍👍👍
I have had good success with Loctite liquid metal on hydraulic fittings that wouldn't seal, I think it would also work with air.
Good efforts appreciate it
Good job
Yeah, up here in the great rusty northeast, "touch nothing you dont absolutely have to" was and is the prime directive. Sometimes even that isnt good enough, I swear Ive had brake lines start to leak, and plastiv pcv lines crack just from the stress of having been observed.
I've never used Aviation Gasket Cement on a metal to metal flange seals without a fiber gasket.
With what they spent on your labor to keep pulling parts off and cleaning and putting back on multiple times they probably could have replaced the part that was bad ! I hate doing a job that you have to band aid because you know deep down its not going to last ! But your limited to what the customer wants I understand ! Great job ! Great troubleshooting ! 👍👍
I've had a turbo leak coolant from the center section into the compressor housing.
customer had replaced most of the egr system ($$$😢) himself before bringing it to me for diagnosis.
Try tapping on those flange clamps with a hammer after initial tightening. It helps force the clamp ways down intern tightening the mating surfaces. You can also tap on the two pieces to create vibration to relieve the stress and help draw them together.
Good job big boss
This proves that that regen crap is the biggest scam in the history of the trucking industry #defund the EPA
Another trick I learned on airplanes is you tighten the bleed air clamp, tap around the clamp with a hammer, tighten it more, tap on it more to seat it the best you can. Surprisingly trucks don't use gaskets on those clamp joints.
Hey just wanted to let you know we buy a high temp epoxy from our dealer cat dealer for exhaust. I have had really good luck with it. I don't the cat number. Made by loctite.
Is it possible to help thoses flanges using a valve lapping compound?
I wonder if mating flange thickness has reduced due to rust and cleaning, might require welding and remachining
Always love the work you do weather major or minor
whether
When I worked on Air compressors I had a 12 inch square steel plate that was machined flat so I can use wet sandpaper on to lap components, valve plates.
Also there is 3M stainless steel tape you can buy and cut to size to wrap around joints then place clamp on. Kind of a field repair for corroded components but it seals.
I had a mechanical work order, used the same type of clamps but on a water system, it only stopped leaking when I changed the clamps a second time.
That's not only one can of worms, that's whole wormfarm. Throwing a granade at it and rebuild it from scratch might would be easier, buuut, admiring the effort, enteraining but then very useful in problem solving techniques... thanks
Thanks 🙏
Clamp can't tighten enough due to rust buildup on outside surface where it grabs onto. Also the flange mating surfaces are worn thinner due to rust pitting and then sanding to make them smooth. That makes it necessary for the clamp to be able to get a deeper grip. A thin metal shim (custom made sealing ring) placed as a gasket between the flange mating surface should make up the difference and allow the clamp to do its thing.
A length of synflex in the ear can help find leaks like that.
I've had slightly mismatched like that before, some lapping compound to work them together helps.
To me it looks like the V band clamps are bottoming out, if they bottom out the clamp is not squeezing the faces together. Take the clamp off and press the v back closed or try new clamps. I've had this happen with these clamps after a couple of tightening cycles, worth a shot.
Yep technically you're not supposed to reuse them, I've never tried to bend the V-back into shape though.. I also put oil inside the clamp to help it slide over the flange. Volvo service actually says to do that.
I’m not very familiar with these engines but could valve guides affect boost numbers?
Can of smoke or a burning incents stick is good for finding leaks (don't use on petrol or LPG engines for volitility of those fuels, diesel is pretty safe). Soapy water works but messy. Stethiscope is handy too.
That looked like a frustrating job. Hopefully it holds up and works. One more reason to get pre emissions vehicles
So my thought is that your using 'V' bands to clamp the parts together. Thus you would need a minimum thickness on the flanges. Since the turbo compressor housing was so corroded that the flange became thinner, then you flat sanded the face, making it yet thinner. Thus it will never seal properly, but did improve when you try sealers which will eventually blow out. A proper solution would have been to place a shim gasket between the flange joints, this would have spread the flanges apart and allowed the clamp to pull them together tighter. Thus eliminating the leaks ;)
Thus
I used a vacuum cleaner reversed ,out found a cracked case under data plate on aircraft engine , lots of trouble shooting oil leaks.
I love to hate gasket maker of ALL types. The fix on that turbo may last a while, but in the end yea that truck needs a new one sooner rather than later. Combining a new turbo with a tow bill is going to suck a lot for the owner.
Perhaps my suggestion after the last video of tossing a grenade and shutting the hood wasn't such a bad one?