@@kateputerbaugh3666really easy a few screws and then adjust the hanger clip and move 1 or 2 spots over to align correctly. When I speak of the “tabs” in the video get the tab in the correct hole under the burner underneath the glass
Thanks so much, my semi handy husband did it, what great instructions, so nice to be able to fix instead of buy new, appreciate the get to the point video.
Just did this. Good video. Very easy to do. Amazon burner works fine. Don’t know about longevity but was half the price and, by look and feel, seem comparable.
Really great video, interesting that so many people have issues with the front right burner. On my 3 year old stove, the inner burner went out but the outer burner still works. Do you think replacing the burner will fix this?
@@Doityourselfgirly You are correct! Replacing the entire dual burner will fix the issue. You should check out the wiring connected to the burner first just to make sure that’s all good.
I have a glass top GE stove it's gonna be 5 years old next month. Ok what's happening is when You put on the front right burner No matter what Temperature setting it goes Very Hot and Stays that way. I'm assuming it needs replaced? Also I have a matching GE Refrigerator and I had to get a freezer light for it which I bought from GE. It was quit expensive. I bought them at Lowes. You think they might have the burner there? Thank's anything will help, Paul..
@@paulhill7818 The stove burner that will only go to full heat even when set to low likely has a bad switch…I have video how to replace here…How To Replace GE Stove Knob Switch ruclips.net/video/ykIbKjS4tJo/видео.html. It will Be unlikely Lowe’s carries the replacement switch or the burner. You will have to go to geapplianceparts.com or Amazon you could get an aftermarket switch on Amazon to save a few bucks, but it may or may not last any longer. Thanks for your comment!
I have a similar GE model to the one in the video. When the right front burner is receiving power and is heating (glowing red), there is a clicking sound. Cant tell if coming from under the burner and almost sounds like it is coming from behind the dial. Any idea what that could be? Thanks for the informative video!
It could be the dial switch is failing. It could also be the burner failing. Maybe a wire is loose behind the dial. Try to locate the noise. You could also switch components around. Like a switch or a burner to help diagnose what is making the noise. Please subscribe if you haven’t, Thanks!
There is likely a wire that has melted to another. You should lift the stove glass up and look for damaged wires. If that doesn’t find anything look for damaged wires closer to the knob for both those burners. Let me know if you find anything
Swapped the large triple burner on my stove with a brand new one, and the small element still does not work, even though the two larger outer rings do work. Could this be a bad switch? Any ideas on troubleshooting?
I watched this video and felt confident I could fix it myself with your clear directions. When the part arrived, I lifted up the top and immediately saw that the wire that goes to this burner was not connected. I don't know if it got burnt (no burn marks) or cut, or maybe a mouse chewed it, but there was a loose wire and a piece about an inch big by itself - I think it may be called a crimp connecter? Is it possible to replace that part? Thanks for any help.
That is possible to repair. It is strange that it became disconnected. Like you said I would normally suspect a burn mark with some damage. The terminal ends (crimp connector ) of the wires from the oven plug on to the burner directly. So if the burner was damaged the new burner will work. If the wire was damaged you can usually use a screwdriver and pliers to reattach that terminal end. Or you can cut the wire and install a new terminal end. The terminal end (crimp connector) cost about 2 cents each but you usually need to buy a bunch. From the sounds of it, I think you need to remove the crimp connector from the old burner and reattach it to the wire from the oven using a tool to open the crimp connector and another to crimp it again, it is nothing more than some flexible metal than can be manipulated a couple times before it breaks. If the old burner is still intact than you can save $100.
I have the same issue as you and was about to order a new burner, but then I read on some DIY website that the most common cause of a burner failing is the switch which appears to be a totally different repair process so now I'm confused lol. How did it work out for you did replacing the burner fix it?
@@smiznog9125if you want to swap the switch here is a video. You could tell if the switch or burner is bad by swapping either one with another burner. Thanks for the comment!
Took the burner out and could see the broken coil. Just put in the new part today, never had to do this til now but it was super easy thanks to your video👍 @@Theocdrepairman
Have a newer model GE less than a couple years old with my dual burner on the left side. The middle(small) burning element does not heat up but the outer does. Would I just have to replace the whole element?
They are usually just tight enough to slip on and off by pulling on the terminal itself. Sometimes they are really on there and you may need to manipulate the terminal.
I had to tug really hard with needle nose pliers to get mine off. My stove is 14 years old. When putting on the new ones I used petroleum jelly to lubricate and it was still difficult. I used a tiny FH screwdriver to open the 2 wire curls (for lack of proper term) so I could get them on. Then, I squeezed down on the curls after attached to make them tight against the element connector.
Two questions: 1) If I shut off the breaker, I shouldn't need to pull the stove out to unplug it right? 2) It seems my element turns on for a few seconds then shuts off but the heat indicator light stays on indefinitely. I'm guessing the thermal switch is done. Can that part alone be replaced or do I have to replace the whole element? Thanks!
Correct if the breaker is functioning correctly you do not need to unplug the machine. Just extra safety. The thermostat/ is the glass piece across the burner, if it is cracked it could turn it on partially. You will need the burner element replaced as far as I know
Yes. You are correct! Some burners have dual heating zones (one small and one big). If the one of zones is not working than the entire burner needs to be replaced. Be sure to purchase the correct burner as they are location specific sometimes.
Awesome video. I'm having problems with a Model # JB645DK1BB Official GE electric range. The elements, when turned on, goes straight to the high temperature and can't be adjusted up or down...just high. Is there some regulator that controls this? Would appreciate your thoughts on that it is before i call a repairman. Thanks.
Sounds like a problem with the switch/dial control. You could measure the voltage from the switch verify, but it might be easier to just replace. Is it all elements or just one? Here is a video on the switch ruclips.net/video/ykIbKjS4tJo/видео.htmlsi=uyvXBheS7wbwUjR8
@@jillcnc yes just verify no power to the unit by turning something “on” without breaker power to verify that the breaker is working correctly and the power has been cut.
@@assuntacarboni3678 did all 4 stop working at the same time? If so it is likely the control module. Part#WB27T11151. It is possible that all the burners failed at the same time so I am unsure. Look for burnt connections at the burners and such. To open the cook top (I have not opened on of these up) it looks like on the rear of the cooktop glass there are a couple screws or possible the screws are from the rear from under the cook top glass. If there are no screws it MAY just slide in without screws. If you want to look at parts diagrams to get a better idea go to GEapplianceparts.com. Hope this helps!
my right front burner is offset like yours is I have a GE stove that's about two years old. I have messed with that thing and goofed with it and I just can't get it straight. I'm ready to just take a hammer to the glass top.
There are multiple mounting points. The metal clip/ hanger is on the wrong hole under the burner. You are probably just 1 hole off. Look under the burner…where the metal clips poke into the burner they are numbered. You will probably see you have it moved over and just need to put the clip in a different hole. Let me know if that help. Also don’t forget to subscribe please. Thanks for your comment!
Hi my stove model is P B970S M2SS and when I try to order the glass top it says no longer available what is another alternative for my model and also it looks the same as ur model in the video. Thanks for answering in advance.
Unfortunately sometimes if a model has been discontinued for while the manufacturer will eventually stop making the parts for it. I think the parts you are looking for is WB62T10597 which has been discontinued. I think it was replace with part number WB62T10475. I would call ge to verify that this new part number is correct. If it is correct try to search for the new stove top with the updated part number. If you can’t find it in the after market or via used retailer you may need a new oven. Calling the manufacturer will be the best solution to get an updated part number if it exists. Please subscribe, Thanks for your question.
I guess from another video i saw, my problem is most likely the switch. looks easy to replace. about $40 with tax and shipping. thanks for the great video, though. at some point i'm sure i'll need it again.
Hi my GE model is PB960SJ9SS and the 3600W heating element need to replace (right front). I live in Ontario Canada. Can you please help from where to buy because I searched online and not able to find the correct one.
Please subscribe! Here is a diagram of the parts for your stove www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/ModelSectionParts/PB960SJ9SS/2/0/0/0/COOKTOP www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/spec/WB30T10155
@@juliapadilla1762 do you mean the wire that actually connects to the burner? Was it just the end that was burnt? If it was just the end you will need to cut off the terminal and attach a new one. You can find those at the local hardware store. Now if the wire is burnt like 8 inches away and you don’t have enough slack the. you will need to buy a crimp connector to attach the wires after you removal the damaged portion. If it’s really bad you may need the crimp connector, more wire, and the terminal end. Let me know what part is damaged I can help you more
Please subscribe. The burner being replaced in the video is the one that has dual heating zones. This oven only has one of those dual heating zone burners
My stove model is JCB630EK6ES( used around 3 years). The right side front burner( biggest ) is just not hot or powerful as the beginning . is the burner problem or switch ( or something else). where to find the part . thank you.
It’s proabably the temperature control on the burner. Will probably need a new one. I relive this wasn’t clear. You will need a new burner. Can look for part number on geapplianceparts.com
@@cristinal3055you likely put the burner tab in the wrong spot like the end of the video. Simply move the tab over to the correct hole on the burner (there are multiple option) thanks for the comment!
I forgot to mention that last photo of the video is what it looks like if the burner is in the wrong location…oops
lmaooo it was so funny
Is that hard to fix? I had a repair man come fix my burner and now it's not lined up.
@@kateputerbaugh3666really easy a few screws and then adjust the hanger clip and move 1 or 2 spots over to align correctly. When I speak of the “tabs” in the video get the tab in the correct hole under the burner underneath the glass
LOL, I was gonna say. Thanks for this video, I am doing it on my stove and this has helped tons!
@@Lynderella thanks for the comment!
This is a great tutorial. My stove is 1 year old and I need to replace the large one. Thanks for the help!!
Thank you for the explaination without all of the preamble and drama so common in videos!
@@deegir3354 Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment!
Clear concise and complete. Thank You!
Wow I have the same make/model and the same element is out! …. Thank you for taking the time to put this together ❤
My stoves been broken for 2 years and i just found this video...i already bought it, thanks!
Hey how are you Where did you get the burner part from?
Thanks so much, my semi handy husband did it, what great instructions, so nice to be able to fix instead of buy new, appreciate the get to the point video.
@@colbymoore3996 That’s amazing! Thanks for the comment!
Super helpful. Was able to get this fixed in 20 minutes (including cleaning the nastiness under the stove 😂). So glad I didn’t have to buy a new range
Noticed the inner small burner of a dual burner was out tonight. This video is perfect to help me do this repair on my own! Thank you!
Your video made a it extremely easy to replace. Thx it was appreciated. 👍🏽
Just did this. Good video. Very easy to do. Amazon burner works fine. Don’t know about longevity but was half the price and, by look and feel, seem comparable.
Please let me know you find any problems with the Amazon brand in the near future. Thanks for the Comment!
You rock Dude! Answered all my questions in 2 minutes 😊
Great job on the editing and info. Thank you sir.
Great video that was really helpful. To the point. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
I just bought mine today, im saving this video for future reference
Thank you so much this worked like a charm. I’ve been dreading this since it went out but your video made it a breeze
Im gonna try this tonight!
Great video, good job buddy. Thanks
Thank you!! You saved me lots of money
You're welcome!!
Really great video, interesting that so many people have issues with the front right burner. On my 3 year old stove, the inner burner went out but the outer burner still works. Do you think replacing the burner will fix this?
@@Doityourselfgirly You are correct! Replacing the entire dual burner will fix the issue. You should check out the wiring connected to the burner first just to make sure that’s all good.
Thanks so much, trying it out this weekend, great video
One of the metal clips on the wires seems too small to fit on the metal piece on the new burner. Do I pry it open a bit to make it fit?
Yeah, just a tiny bit to get the terminal onto the burner connection
Thank you for this video. I followed it and it worked perfect to fix my range top burner/
Hey, thank you ! I'll save big $ and long waits doing it myself !!
I have a glass top GE stove it's gonna be 5 years old next month. Ok what's happening is when You put on the front right burner No matter what Temperature setting it goes Very Hot and Stays that way. I'm assuming it needs replaced? Also I have a matching GE Refrigerator and I had to get a freezer light for it which I bought from GE. It was quit expensive. I bought them at Lowes. You think they might have the burner there? Thank's anything will help, Paul..
@@paulhill7818 The stove burner that will only go to full heat even when set to low likely has a bad switch…I have video how to replace here…How To Replace GE Stove Knob Switch
ruclips.net/video/ykIbKjS4tJo/видео.html. It will
Be unlikely Lowe’s carries the replacement switch or the burner. You will have to go to geapplianceparts.com or Amazon you could get an aftermarket switch on Amazon to save a few bucks, but it may or may not last any longer. Thanks for your comment!
@Theocdrepairman Thank You Sir..
You are the best ! Thank you
por fin un video de como quitar ese maldito clip o resorte que sostiene el quemador , muchas gracias
Thank you. Glen M
I have a similar GE model to the one in the video. When the right front burner is receiving power and is heating (glowing red), there is a clicking sound. Cant tell if coming from under the burner and almost sounds like it is coming from behind the dial. Any idea what that could be? Thanks for the informative video!
It could be the dial switch is failing. It could also be the burner failing. Maybe a wire is loose behind the dial. Try to locate the noise. You could also switch components around. Like a switch or a burner to help diagnose what is making the noise. Please subscribe if you haven’t, Thanks!
Thanks for the quick reply on a Sunday. Enjoy your weekend.@@Theocdrepairman
I turn on the back burner and both the front and back turn on, any ideas?
There is likely a wire that has melted to another. You should lift the stove glass up and look for damaged wires. If that doesn’t find anything look for damaged wires closer to the knob for both those burners. Let me know if you find anything
@@Theocdrepairman I’ll lift the top and let you know, thanks for getting back to me
Great video straight and to the point thank you very much
Swapped the large triple burner on my stove with a brand new one, and the small element still does not work, even though the two larger outer rings do work. Could this be a bad switch? Any ideas on troubleshooting?
It may be a bad switch. But I would make sure the burner you installed was not faulty or damaged during shipping
Thank you!
I watched this video and felt confident I could fix it myself with your clear directions. When the part arrived, I lifted up the top and immediately saw that the wire that goes to this burner was not connected. I don't know if it got burnt (no burn marks) or cut, or maybe a mouse chewed it, but there was a loose wire and a piece about an inch big by itself - I think it may be called a crimp connecter? Is it possible to replace that part? Thanks for any help.
That is possible to repair. It is strange that it became disconnected. Like you said I would normally suspect a burn mark with some damage. The terminal ends (crimp connector ) of the wires from the oven plug on to the burner directly. So if the burner was damaged the new burner will work. If the wire was damaged you can usually use a screwdriver and pliers to reattach that terminal end. Or you can cut the wire and install a new terminal end. The terminal end (crimp connector) cost about 2 cents each but you usually need to buy a bunch. From the sounds of it, I think you need to remove the crimp connector from the old burner and reattach it to the wire from the oven using a tool to open the crimp connector and another to crimp it again, it is nothing more than some flexible metal than can be manipulated a couple times before it breaks. If the old burner is still intact than you can save $100.
I have the same issue as you and was about to order a new burner, but then I read on some DIY website that the most common cause of a burner failing is the switch which appears to be a totally different repair process so now I'm confused lol. How did it work out for you did replacing the burner fix it?
@@smiznog9125if you want to swap the switch here is a video. You could tell if the switch or burner is bad by swapping either one with another burner. Thanks for the comment!
Took the burner out and could see the broken coil. Just put in the new part today, never had to do this til now but it was super easy thanks to your video👍 @@Theocdrepairman
What kind of wrench you used to open the Oven cooktop ?
I believe it is a 1/4” or 5/16” socket or the same size screw driver receiver (one of the screw drivers with changeable bits). Please subscribe!
Have a newer model GE less than a couple years old with my dual burner on the left side. The middle(small) burning element does not heat up but the outer does. Would I just have to replace the whole element?
Unfortunately Yes you have to replace the entire burner. Thanks for your comment!
Do you just tug on the wires to remove them or do you have Eclipse somewhere there and it has to be pressed to remove them
They are usually just tight enough to slip on and off by pulling on the terminal itself. Sometimes they are really on there and you may need to manipulate the terminal.
I had to tug really hard with needle nose pliers to get mine off. My stove is 14 years old. When putting on the new ones I used petroleum jelly to lubricate and it was still difficult. I used a tiny FH screwdriver to open the 2 wire curls (for lack of proper term) so I could get them on. Then, I squeezed down on the curls after attached to make them tight against the element connector.
@@aerusselabsolutely! Thanks for the comment. I have done that to a few also.
What is the tool with the red handle called?
@@thomascharles87 that is a 5/16 hand driver. A 5/16 socket or 8mm will work also.
Two questions:
1) If I shut off the breaker, I shouldn't need to pull the stove out to unplug it right?
2) It seems my element turns on for a few seconds then shuts off but the heat indicator light stays on indefinitely. I'm guessing the thermal switch is done. Can that part alone be replaced or do I have to replace the whole element?
Thanks!
Correct if the breaker is functioning correctly you do not need to unplug the machine. Just extra safety.
The thermostat/ is the glass piece across the burner, if it is cracked it could turn it on partially. You will need the burner element replaced as far as I know
Youre video is great! Subscribed, going to attempt and will post an update. Thank you for making this seem doable!
My burner will go off innthe middle and only stay on ,on the outside of the burner do I need to replace it or is it a different problem
Yes. You are correct! Some burners have dual heating zones (one small and one big). If the one of zones is not working than the entire burner needs to be replaced. Be sure to purchase the correct burner as they are location specific sometimes.
What do you doing they bother working but the middle one won't stay on ,I have to wiggles the know to get to come on but will only stay on high ?
What is the name of the tool with the red handle?
Awesome video. I'm having problems with a Model # JB645DK1BB Official GE electric range. The elements, when turned on, goes straight to the high temperature and can't be adjusted up or down...just high. Is there some regulator that controls this? Would appreciate your thoughts on that it is before i call a repairman. Thanks.
Sounds like a problem with the switch/dial control. You could measure the voltage from the switch verify, but it might be easier to just replace. Is it all elements or just one? Here is a video on the switch ruclips.net/video/ykIbKjS4tJo/видео.htmlsi=uyvXBheS7wbwUjR8
You're a legend
If I want to do this myself, can I just cut the circuit breaker? I am a small person and can't move the stove by myself.
@@jillcnc yes just verify no power to the unit by turning something “on” without breaker power to verify that the breaker is working correctly and the power has been cut.
Model PCS968SP2SS THE lights go on for the burner but 4 elements don't heat up. My stove top doesn't open like on this video.
@@assuntacarboni3678 did all 4 stop working at the same time? If so it is likely the control module. Part#WB27T11151. It is possible that all the burners failed at the same time so I am unsure. Look for burnt connections at the burners and such. To open the cook top (I have not opened on of these up) it looks like on the rear of the cooktop glass there are a couple screws or possible the screws are from the rear from under the cook top glass. If there are no screws it MAY just slide in without screws. If you want to look at parts diagrams to get a better idea go to GEapplianceparts.com. Hope this helps!
my right front burner is offset like yours is I have a GE stove that's about two years old. I have messed with that thing and goofed with it and I just can't get it straight. I'm ready to just take a hammer to the glass top.
There are multiple mounting points. The metal clip/ hanger is on the wrong hole under the burner. You are probably just 1 hole off. Look under the burner…where the metal clips poke into the burner they are numbered. You will probably see you have it moved over and just need to put the clip in a different hole. Let me know if that help. Also don’t forget to subscribe please. Thanks for your comment!
Thanks a lot! I fixed it!
Hi my stove model is P B970S M2SS and when I try to order the glass top it says no longer available what is another alternative for my model and also it looks the same as ur model in the video. Thanks for answering in advance.
Unfortunately sometimes if a model has been discontinued for while the manufacturer will eventually stop making the parts for it. I think the parts you are looking for is WB62T10597 which has been discontinued. I think it was replace with part number WB62T10475. I would call ge to verify that this new part number is correct. If it is correct try to search for the new stove top with the updated part number. If you can’t find it in the after market or via used retailer you may need a new oven. Calling the manufacturer will be the best solution to get an updated part number if it exists. Please subscribe, Thanks for your question.
our stove's large burner goes to Hi no matter what we set it on. Is that a bad burner or some kind of thermostat for that burner?
I guess from another video i saw, my problem is most likely the switch. looks easy to replace. about $40 with tax and shipping. thanks for the great video, though. at some point i'm sure i'll need it again.
Yes you are correct! Here is a video I made for the switch…How To Replace GE Stove Knob Switch
ruclips.net/video/ykIbKjS4tJo/видео.html
@@Theocdrepairman thanks. i just ordered a new switch.
Thank you!!
Damn thank you so so much!
Our model is GE JB645RK1SS, it looks like it’s pretty easy once you get the part.
@@toolman67 Thanks for the comment!
Hi my GE model is PB960SJ9SS and the 3600W heating element need to replace (right front).
I live in Ontario Canada. Can you please help from where to buy because I searched online and not able to find the correct one.
Please subscribe! Here is a diagram of the parts for your stove
www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/ModelSectionParts/PB960SJ9SS/2/0/0/0/COOKTOP
www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/spec/WB30T10155
Thank you so much ❤
I used this video, but unfortunately it turned out that a wire is burnt. How do I get replacement wire and install.
@@juliapadilla1762 do you mean the wire that actually connects to the burner? Was it just the end that was burnt? If it was just the end you will need to cut off the terminal and attach a new one. You can find those at the local hardware store. Now if the wire is burnt like 8 inches away and you don’t have enough slack the. you will need to buy a crimp connector to attach the wires after you removal the damaged portion. If it’s really bad you may need the crimp connector, more wire, and the terminal end. Let me know what part is damaged I can help you more
@ it was just the terminal end that was burnt.
I am having the same issue except my 3 burners on the right side of the stove top all quit working at the same time.
Did they stop working at the same time or one go then later the others?
What size was that burner?
Please subscribe. The burner being replaced in the video is the one that has dual heating zones. This oven only has one of those dual heating zone burners
My stove model is JCB630EK6ES( used around 3 years). The right side front burner( biggest ) is just not hot or powerful as the beginning . is the burner problem or switch ( or something else). where to find the part . thank you.
It’s proabably the temperature control on the burner. Will probably need a new one. I relive this wasn’t clear. You will need a new burner. Can look for part number on geapplianceparts.com
How much was The Burner?
About $90-110 for the big one, genuine GE. Dual zone burner is more expensive…also the smaller burner is cheaper I think.
@@Theocdrepairman dang My Big Burner doesn't cook the Food all the Way
Why is the the burner look off center?!
@@cristinal3055you likely put the burner tab in the wrong spot like the end of the video. Simply move the tab over to the correct hole on the burner (there are multiple option) thanks for the comment!
Nice
Hey gangster you same me money bro thank you.
@@srla.5145 glad it helped, Thanks for the comment!
Brown Jennifer Perez Susan Harris Paul
Thanks!
@@randomoldguy-nq3wt Thank you!