I thought Ferrofluid was for bringing the magnetic fields closer for more torque, like to fill that air-gap thats there, so parts can expand from heat without touching. I didn't know it was just for cooling, and had such a dramatic effect. Does it ever deteriorate and need to be replaced? How do I clean out Ferrofluid if I should replace it, and how often?
I'd check it once a year approximately. It does loose its volume after a while. No need to clean up, just add if needed. And yeah, the effect is pretty dramatic. There's a few videos of this Canadian company, grintech, where they test it precisely. And a few more builders as well. P.s I should've mentioned the hub cooling sinks on the outside of the motor. Which also played a great role in dissipation of the heat.
My scooter controller 60v 2600w 45amp and hub motor is 60/72v 3000w why do my hub motor get hot like 75 degree in Celsius after just 4 miles of driving?
Knew nothing about ferrofluid saw it once being used to move a magnet around with no friction immediately thought about motor usage and found this lol. Now gonna look into the quantum locking and see what wierd combos i can think of until i come up with a new idea never done. Mercury is the most interesting thing ive seen yet believe it was used to float heavy metals uphill for construction of pyramids possibly
does the ferrofluid have any role in reducing the reluctance between the stator and the rotor and thus increasing the flux and torque? if not, why don't we just use oil or some other cooling material ?
We used to use oil, it was just messy, and required certain areas properly sealed. Also bigger amount was needed, which increased drag. Ferrofluid is just a smart oil.
my question which if you got time would like to sit down and talk with exactly what im doing. as I am using a qs 273 motor at 43,200kw but worry about if the fluid dries how hard to clean and or redo
Ferro fluids are evaporated in open atmosphere,in temperature increases evaporation rate increases and its surfactant completely gone and only magnetite particles.
Partly correct. It does loose its volume overtime , but definitely not a short time, ive checked a few times in my motors history , and it was approximately a year long before I've seen it kind of dry . I disassembled it quite a few times , was experimenting with it.
I was wondering if I needed that stuff if I used a 36v500w motor with a 48v 20a controller instead of the original controller (36v20a) and took 240w more power from it?
Hey Nice vid.is that bearing supposed to hang on the axle?i have a problem with my engine makes noice.and my bearing is also on the axle.supposed to sit in the lid of the motor
I wanted to ask Im due to add the Ferrofluid to be hub magnets as you did, but after that I was going to spray all the internals with Red insluation vanish to delay of pervent the on set of rust what you think?
It will have less effectiveness, but it will still work. That insulation you want to do, make sure you're aiming at shit load of puddles or rain to go through, because if not, it is just not worth it. Some grease at the cap/body area will do just fine to prevent from water to sneak in.
I have used statorade before. Putting into escooter motors. at 2ml at most. We did encounter one issue. The hall sensors went faulty. Could it have been that the fluid cause the hall sensor to short circuit? Anyone has experience?
I can think of that scenario only if you have blasted it with tons of it. Or maybe just unlucky, hitting that exact spot to short sensors. Doing this for like 6 years , not a single issue.
@@SUB13333 shall give it another try again soon :) hopefully it will help. how many ml do you recommend? It's a 11" escooter motor for the dualtron, if this description helps.
That is a FACT. and Anyone who Thinks his Scooter Motor can handle 20,000 Watts has as Many Loose Nuts as this Wing Nut who thinks his Scooter is so Fast and Powerful Until they Crash Hard and find them Self under a Truck Counting the Tread then there not so Fast or Powerful. I Laugh Everyday at these Hub Motor Heads with my Bafang BBSHD with 3,000 Miles on it and Still Going Great in the Woods on Dirt Bike Trails and on the Road Riding with Traffic and Pulling a Cart at the Speed Limit and Not Limited to the Bike Lane with all the Hub Motor Heads
LOL Carbon is only Conductive when it has Metal Bits in it for Pure Carbon is 100% NON-Conductive. Graphite is a kind of Carbon that is Conductive This is What Motor Brushes are made of but Graphite is NOT Pure Carbon.
BAD idea! You would do better to open vent holes in the side panels of the motor so air can get in. Ferro fluid adds spinning resistance and makes an enormous mess! What you need is proper cooling from air flow into the motor, not sludge that makes it harder to turn and adds viscosity.
the amount of drag is so tiny that it is stupid to include it in the equation. before spreading these bold facts, you should do a little research 1st :) . its been proven as efficient about a million times.
@@SUB13333 1. You are entitled to your opinions about the amount of resistance ferro fluid adds. It is far from negligible and only increases with motor RPM's! 2. Proven to do what exactly? No one said it doesn't act as a conductor of heat. It does this better than air between the magnet ring and the stator. There is no question that some oil and tiny bits of iron conduct heat better than air. THIS is what has been "proven". No one is refuting this fact. 3. Ferro fluid isn't exactly free! I looked it up on ebay and 4oz costs nearly $40. The motor needs to be sealed up so that oil and metal do not leak out and make a mess every where. There is considerable mess created inside the motor! AKA...giant MESS! The potential for slinging gunk everywhere when it leaks out is significant. The viscosity related losses increases with motor RPM's. You still need external heat sinks to pull heat away from the magnet ring. 4. Venting the motor, by contrast, is far better. The "cost" is a bit of time drilling holes and loss of weight in the motor. In every way possible ventilating the motor is better than ferro fluid! There is zero mess and zero viscosity losses. 5. IF you want to get really wild and crazy expensive, put an EDF inside the motor so that you have forced air cooling, but I have yet to see a need for it. Just ventilating the motor is usually more than enough.
@@de-bodgery done about 30 motors with ferro in the past 4 years. 1. no mess whatsoever ( and i mean clean AF ) 2. didnt seal in any way the hub caps ( magnetic fluid stays on the magnets even on very high rpm 3. drilling will compromise the motor to humidity and corrosion. possible to fix, but why when theres ferrofluid that will take me about 5 minutes to apply?
@@SUB13333 1. No mess? Really? Ever take one of those motors apart AFTER filling it with goo? Trust me! There is a GIANT MESS! 2. Last time I checked, Iron is attracted to magnets, but not oil. The oil runs where ever it runs and does not stay at the magnet ring. In fact, it settles to the bottom of the motor when it's not spinning. It's only spinning (centrifical force) that makes it spread back to the magnet ring. 3. I'd have to say that not all motors are sealed up. This is your saving grace! Go ahead and try that goop in a hub motor that isn't sealed and see what happens! You will have a nice puddle of dark oil under the motor or it will sling out everywhere as the motor spins. 4. Every outrunner on the planet is "compromised" as you call it. How come they don't have problems with this? I use quite a lot of outrunners. I can tell you this isn't a problem. Ever watch Vedder run motors? He immerses them in water! This is NOT A problem. ***** To each there own I suppose! I'd never put that gunk in a motor! Fills them with nasty crap you can't remove later. It creates a mess inside the motor if you ever need to take it apart. It creates motor spinning resistance that increases with motor RPM. It creates more problems than it solves and you still need external heat sinks! Venting the motor does the same thing with zero mess and zero harm to the motor. ***** I'll give you this...ferro fluid is easy to apply. Drill a hole in the side cover, pour in goop, plug the hole...done. Of course you have to pretend that no one will EVER service the motor for any reason. If they do, they have to contend with all that goop inside. YUCK! Venting works just as well and there is no mess not ever. Go ahead and give it a try. You don't have to get sophisticated like I did on this motor. A few drilled holes will do the job. You need to take the motor apart so that you don't leave metal inside the motor when you open up the covers. This is BAD for motors...even iron powder is bad for them! Watch this video up to 2 minutes and you'll see my 40kw hub motor. You can see my motor venting. Trust me it works VERY WELL and there is no mess. ruclips.net/video/nwR-CFJk2fY/видео.html When this video was made, I was seeing peaks of 309 phase amps and 250 battery amps per controller at 82v. Double those numbers for both controllers! YEAH!!! 40KW in a hub motor with air venting only!!!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I thought Ferrofluid was for bringing the magnetic fields closer for more torque, like to fill that air-gap thats there, so parts can expand from heat without touching. I didn't know it was just for cooling, and had such a dramatic effect.
Does it ever deteriorate and need to be replaced?
How do I clean out Ferrofluid if I should replace it, and how often?
I'd check it once a year approximately. It does loose its volume after a while. No need to clean up, just add if needed. And yeah, the effect is pretty dramatic. There's a few videos of this Canadian company, grintech, where they test it precisely. And a few more builders as well.
P.s
I should've mentioned the hub cooling sinks on the outside of the motor. Which also played a great role in dissipation of the heat.
@@SUB13333
Thank you.
Excellent video.. I wonder though, does it generate friction between the rotor and the stator which then would decrease efficiency?
Yes it does , but incredibly low percentage, so not really an issue.
your vids are always full of the best information
My man
My scooter controller 60v 2600w 45amp and hub motor is 60/72v 3000w why do my hub motor get hot like 75 degree in Celsius after just 4 miles of driving?
Can i inject ferrofluid into where the bolts that hold the disk brake side?
Still have the hub ?
Could I use this on my 2000-watt rear hub without taking the status Apart from the magnets
Yes you can, just open the side cover enough too see the magnets. then squeeze it in, it'll find is place
@@SUB13333 thank you for your reply mate I've been told to watch out for fakrs on ebay
@@revparsons3tl hubsinks.com
Knew nothing about ferrofluid saw it once being used to move a magnet around with no friction immediately thought about motor usage and found this lol. Now gonna look into the quantum locking and see what wierd combos i can think of until i come up with a new idea never done. Mercury is the most interesting thing ive seen yet believe it was used to float heavy metals uphill for construction of pyramids possibly
What if you just put cooling fin on the outside like a smart lil lambchop?
does the ferrofluid have any role in reducing the reluctance between the stator and the rotor and thus increasing the flux and torque? if not, why don't we just use oil or some other cooling material ?
We used to use oil, it was just messy, and required certain areas properly sealed. Also bigger amount was needed, which increased drag. Ferrofluid is just a smart oil.
@@SUB13333 i imagine when the technology of the oil gets better we’d see better cooling
my question which if you got time would like to sit down and talk with exactly what im doing. as I am using a qs 273 motor at 43,200kw but worry about if the fluid dries how hard to clean and or redo
Most likely will not happen. The volume might be reduced after a while, then you just refill it. I have never cleaned in a lot of motors I had.
@@SUB13333 alright appreciate it.
Ferro fluids are evaporated in open atmosphere,in temperature increases evaporation rate increases and its surfactant completely gone and only magnetite particles.
Partly correct. It does loose its volume overtime , but definitely not a short time, ive checked a few times in my motors history , and it was approximately a year long before I've seen it kind of dry . I disassembled it quite a few times , was experimenting with it.
YOUR A GUNIUS! MAN What a smart way to remove several limitations!
Maybe pour in where stem for inner tube is? I'm new
Will this work for a sur ron motor
Surron is an in-runner so not really.
I was wondering if I needed that stuff if I used a 36v500w motor with a 48v 20a controller instead of the original controller (36v20a) and took 240w more power from it?
nah. your 36 can easily take 48v. never seen a burnt motor due to that " upgrade"
@@SUB13333 Okay, thanks.
You've got 8T ev B12 back there?
Yep. We do :)
@@SUB13333 Will you make some video's about it ?
Oh man love your video awesome 👌but please answer me this how much cooler is it when you put this stuff in 🤔
Tell me which motor you're using .
Can I use normal ferrofluid u can buy from ebay EFH1 ferrofluid?
i wanted to do it as well, but i've red on multiple forums that ebay ferro is cheap and turns into a thick form after a while. so i didn't.
Hey Nice vid.is that bearing supposed to hang on the axle?i have a problem with my engine makes noice.and my bearing is also on the axle.supposed to sit in the lid of the motor
It suppose to sit wherever the friction is at its best, in my case the axle won.
Conclusion:
Makes no difference whatsoever
I wanted to ask Im due to add the Ferrofluid to be hub magnets as you did, but after that I was going to spray all the internals with Red insluation vanish to delay of pervent the on set of rust what you think?
It will have less effectiveness, but it will still work. That insulation you want to do, make sure you're aiming at shit load of puddles or rain to go through, because if not, it is just not worth it. Some grease at the cap/body area will do just fine to prevent from water to sneak in.
@@SUB13333 thanks I've come along way in my scooter learning, no where near your knowledge but will get there.
is it possible to have too much ferrofluid?
you will just have a good amount of drag. 3-5k motors shouldnt have more than 5-7ml
1k-2k about 3-4ml.
@@SUB13333 that makes sense, thank you!
i didnt understand where and howmuch put the flud? ruclips.net/video/FvoJ7or9nDI/видео.html like that?
would be nice if you injected the ferrofluid
Would this work on e-scooter motors?
Any hub
I have used statorade before. Putting into escooter motors. at 2ml at most. We did encounter one issue. The hall sensors went faulty.
Could it have been that the fluid cause the hall sensor to short circuit?
Anyone has experience?
I can think of that scenario only if you have blasted it with tons of it. Or maybe just unlucky, hitting that exact spot to short sensors. Doing this for like 6 years , not a single issue.
@@SUB13333 shall give it another try again soon :) hopefully it will help.
how many ml do you recommend?
It's a 11" escooter motor for the dualtron, if this description helps.
Spot on man beat video av found on this stuff
I prefer mid-drive motor in my ebike. Hubs do not have the same amount of torque as a pedal crank motor
I prefer green color over red
@@SUB13333 I like a black mid-drive goes with the green of my trike.
@@aloysiusflartey6122 dude this is spamming
That is a FACT. and Anyone who Thinks his Scooter Motor can handle 20,000 Watts has as Many Loose Nuts as this Wing Nut who thinks his Scooter is so Fast and Powerful Until they Crash Hard and find them Self under a Truck Counting the Tread then there not so Fast or Powerful. I Laugh Everyday at these Hub Motor Heads with my Bafang BBSHD with 3,000 Miles on it and Still Going Great in the Woods on Dirt Bike Trails and on the Road Riding with Traffic and Pulling a Cart at the Speed Limit and Not Limited to the Bike Lane with all the Hub Motor Heads
What is a good source to buy ferrofluid from? And I mean the propper high temperature one, not that relatively cheap EFH1 stuff
lunacycle
איפה אני יכול לקנות את זה בישראל אחי
so its thermal paste for moving parts nice.
English is fine bro
מאיפה ניתן להזמין את זה?
lunacycle.com/luna-ferrofluid
Copper is not as conductive as carbon
Hmm.. why the comparison tho ? How is this relevant?
LOL Carbon is only Conductive when it has Metal Bits in it for Pure Carbon is 100% NON-Conductive. Graphite is a kind of Carbon that is Conductive This is What Motor Brushes are made of but Graphite is NOT Pure Carbon.
@@ebikervermont1576 Graphene is superconductor and it's pure carbon
Take the side plates off, and drill to your hearts content.
And let debris/water in the motor? FANTASTIC idea....
BAD idea! You would do better to open vent holes in the side panels of the motor so air can get in. Ferro fluid adds spinning resistance and makes an enormous mess! What you need is proper cooling from air flow into the motor, not sludge that makes it harder to turn and adds viscosity.
the amount of drag is so tiny that it is stupid to include it in the equation. before spreading these bold facts, you should do a little research 1st :) .
its been proven as efficient about a million times.
@@SUB13333
1. You are entitled to your opinions about the amount of resistance ferro fluid adds. It is far from negligible and only increases with motor RPM's!
2. Proven to do what exactly? No one said it doesn't act as a conductor of heat. It does this better than air between the magnet ring and the stator. There is no question that some oil and tiny bits of iron conduct heat better than air. THIS is what has been "proven". No one is refuting this fact.
3. Ferro fluid isn't exactly free! I looked it up on ebay and 4oz costs nearly $40. The motor needs to be sealed up so that oil and metal do not leak out and make a mess every where. There is considerable mess created inside the motor! AKA...giant MESS! The potential for slinging gunk everywhere when it leaks out is significant. The viscosity related losses increases with motor RPM's. You still need external heat sinks to pull heat away from the magnet ring.
4. Venting the motor, by contrast, is far better. The "cost" is a bit of time drilling holes and loss of weight in the motor. In every way possible ventilating the motor is better than ferro fluid! There is zero mess and zero viscosity losses.
5. IF you want to get really wild and crazy expensive, put an EDF inside the motor so that you have forced air cooling, but I have yet to see a need for it. Just ventilating the motor is usually more than enough.
@@de-bodgery done about 30 motors with ferro in the past 4 years.
1. no mess whatsoever ( and i mean clean AF )
2. didnt seal in any way the hub caps ( magnetic fluid stays on the magnets even on very high rpm
3. drilling will compromise the motor to humidity and corrosion. possible to fix, but why when theres ferrofluid that will take me about 5 minutes to apply?
@@SUB13333
1. No mess? Really? Ever take one of those motors apart AFTER filling it with goo? Trust me! There is a GIANT MESS!
2. Last time I checked, Iron is attracted to magnets, but not oil. The oil runs where ever it runs and does not stay at the magnet ring. In fact, it settles to the bottom of the motor when it's not spinning. It's only spinning (centrifical force) that makes it spread back to the magnet ring.
3. I'd have to say that not all motors are sealed up. This is your saving grace! Go ahead and try that goop in a hub motor that isn't sealed and see what happens! You will have a nice puddle of dark oil under the motor or it will sling out everywhere as the motor spins.
4. Every outrunner on the planet is "compromised" as you call it. How come they don't have problems with this? I use quite a lot of outrunners. I can tell you this isn't a problem. Ever watch Vedder run motors? He immerses them in water! This is NOT A problem.
*****
To each there own I suppose! I'd never put that gunk in a motor! Fills them with nasty crap you can't remove later. It creates a mess inside the motor if you ever need to take it apart. It creates motor spinning resistance that increases with motor RPM. It creates more problems than it solves and you still need external heat sinks! Venting the motor does the same thing with zero mess and zero harm to the motor.
*****
I'll give you this...ferro fluid is easy to apply. Drill a hole in the side cover, pour in goop, plug the hole...done. Of course you have to pretend that no one will EVER service the motor for any reason. If they do, they have to contend with all that goop inside. YUCK! Venting works just as well and there is no mess not ever. Go ahead and give it a try. You don't have to get sophisticated like I did on this motor. A few drilled holes will do the job. You need to take the motor apart so that you don't leave metal inside the motor when you open up the covers. This is BAD for motors...even iron powder is bad for them! Watch this video up to 2 minutes and you'll see my 40kw hub motor. You can see my motor venting. Trust me it works VERY WELL and there is no mess.
ruclips.net/video/nwR-CFJk2fY/видео.html
When this video was made, I was seeing peaks of 309 phase amps and 250 battery amps per controller at 82v. Double those numbers for both controllers! YEAH!!! 40KW in a hub motor with air venting only!!!
Good idea. Don't talk when you don't know what you are saying
You will never burn it up