I would love a set of the plans, I’ve always loved boat building but I don’t have the space to do it. Would still love a set of the plans for either the future or to just hang up as art. Thank you for being so in depth with your videos
I really wish I had watched these instruction videos before I built my first boat. I love her like only a home builder can, but she has some major problems. Next boat will be so much better, Thanks Bob!
There are always many ways to accomplish the goal. Thank you Bob for showing this method of transferring the lofting to the molds. This is going to be a joy to watch as you progress. Take care and have a great weekend.
Bob, brilliant system for creating the molds. I’m about to start building a Caledonia Yawl, and I was fretting about how to easily and reliably lay out molds off plans that only give me a half profile. I know the nail impression technique is a traditional way to do it, but your system seems more fool proof. Thanks for that.
Agreed. Sturdy fiberboard, or something thin like that, would lend toward better accuracy. The thicker base quarter circle would lend those with less of a critical eye than Bob to misalignment of the pointer (tongue depressor) sticks, being higher off the surface.
My favorite part of the boat building process are when molds go from the lofting floor to the strong back. It's rubber meets road that shows how an idea on paper becomes a 3D form in the real world.
I was brought to your channel thru A to A . Your crafting of the steps involved and the presentation is second to none, thank you. I truly hope that in the background there is an apprentice .
by the way, sometimes even more convenient than hot air to soften hot melt glue (which usually leaves glue on both pieces), you can use isopropyl rubbing alcohol to make the hot glue release and peel off the surfaces.
Bob, love your work and your vids. I think it's the first time I've seen you use full size plans. Have you ever used carbon paper? I just lay out a bunch of carbon paper on my stock, then pop your full size plans over the top and trace the line with a tracing wheel.
Hi Andrew, The Haven came with full size mold station patterns. I used an awl to make dents to transfer the pattern to the mold material. You can see this in S2-E4 Setting Up Molds ruclips.net/video/h2B_9MLkFLI/видео.html it starts at 15:45 I have not used carbon paper, though that is a good method. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Bob
This has been a nice learning process for me. Thank you. I have enjoyed this so far from designing and building the half hull to building this. Stay encouraged and thanks for sharing this with us. I know it is a lot of work to record it let alone building it.
I assume station patterns are placed forward and aft of station lines so you can fair them without losing hull shape. As usual great video, I always learn a lot. I know your motto is “Make It Beautiful”, you should add “and Interesting” since you always do.
Great idea to have a blower to blow away the dust. That's frustrating when using a jigsaw, and I can't see the line. I keep trying to blow air from my mouth, but having a tube blowing air would work great.
Another informative video Bob. Could I just refer you to a question I asked in comments under the previous video that you may have missed. Cheers, Paul.
Shouldn’t the moulds be on the inside of the station lines? I.e forward ones aft of the lines and aft ones forward of the lines? Otherwise won’t you need to taper the edges to accommodate the curve of the planking?
As I understand it, those "molds" are already the finished stations. They will be kept in the final boat. Thus he needs some area to fix the planking onto. (Otherwise: why would he go through the work to cut the inside of the stations?)
@@michaelreid7750 I think you are right. I just rewatched the buildup for his own boat (it is in S2-E5). There he built the mold the same way and added some ribbands, steamed in the real frames and planked them. I guess it will be pretty much the same procedure here.
For Victoria, her skin will different than the Haven’s planked method; strip built with a fibreglass final layer. Both methods start the same way, with a strong back and forms.
Completely ignorant question from someone who has never built a boat: Instead of laying out the station lines on the lofting board and then using the tongue depressors etc. to transfer them to the molding stock, wouldn't it have been faster to lay out each station line on its respective piece of molding stock to begin with?
Hi Charles, Lofting a boat become a valuable full size drawing to refer to and check measurements during the build. Laying out directly on mold stock would require laying out both sides on the boat. As you saw in the video It was easy to flip over the pattern for the other side. It would not be faster and be more prone to not having the hull symmetrical. Thanks for watching!
How obvious - after the first time! Guaranteed port and starboard symmetry and the thickness of the battens and the angle of the tongue depressors is irrelevant. Technique actually translates well to making a template to fit any curved surface.
Hi Robert, Indeed you are correct! An additional benefit is the minimal thickness of the tongue depressors lets the pattern will lay flat when flipped over. Thank you for watch and your insightful comment! Cheers, Bob
Hi Matthew, As you saw with the "other patterns" I still needed to use a batten to transfer the curve to the pattern. Since the patterns for the molds needed to be used for the port and starboard side the method I used it the most efficient when reducing the station plan by the plank thickness. Cheers, ob
It's just you! Ha, joke. But actually, he usually has a reason for doing things the 'long' way. As well as using the fundamentals to teach and learn he uses methods that work best for him. Accuracy, repeatability, and aesthetics. His is the ART of boat building, not the boat factory.
Your the best thanks for this stream 👍
Metal sculpture, Boatbuilding and video production! Truly a Renaissance Man!
I can't wait to see Victoria and Arabella together for the first time. They'll look great.
I would love a set of the plans, I’ve always loved boat building but I don’t have the space to do it. Would still love a set of the plans for either the future or to just hang up as art. Thank you for being so in depth with your videos
Yours is a clever use of tongue depressors. From now on i'll remember your lesson every time I go to the doctor.
I’m sure I can speak for all when I say Thank You for taking time to make videos sharing your knowledge and skills with the world
So nice of you
Absolutely, although I'm almost certain I'll never build a boat, it's a joy to watch a craftsman - much like watching Steve.
Looks great. Steve and his team will be very excited watching someone else building a project for his boar...rr Normandy, France
It is exciting to watch the transition. Rising off the lofting floor and there it is, a (nearly) full shape of the boat.
Love the way you made the molds. These are great watch and learn videos. Thanks Bob.
She's beginning to look a lot like a boat, Bob! Great to see the project coming along
I really wish I had watched these instruction videos before I built my first boat. I love her like only a home builder can, but she has some major problems. Next boat will be so much better, Thanks Bob!
There are always many ways to accomplish the goal. Thank you Bob for showing this method of transferring the lofting to the molds. This is going to be a joy to watch as you progress. Take care and have a great weekend.
The ducks come in handy in that shape. My muffin tins are for weight but not much else. I see a repour in my future. Thanks
Bob, brilliant system for creating the molds. I’m about to start building a Caledonia Yawl, and I was fretting about how to easily and reliably lay out molds off plans that only give me a half profile. I know the nail impression technique is a traditional way to do it, but your system seems more fool proof. Thanks for that.
Agreed. Sturdy fiberboard, or something thin like that, would lend toward better accuracy. The thicker base quarter circle would lend those with less of a critical eye than Bob to misalignment of the pointer (tongue depressor) sticks, being higher off the surface.
My favorite part of the boat building process are when molds go from the lofting floor to the strong back. It's rubber meets road that shows how an idea on paper becomes a 3D form in the real world.
thanks for the video QQ Can you estimate the "error" in the dimensions considering all this transfer processes involved ??? I guess +- 3mm/ 1/8 inch
Fascinating as always and a well crafted video!
Go away SPAMMERS!
Hi Jim,
Thanks I just blocked all of them.
Cheers,
I was brought to your channel thru A to A . Your crafting of the steps involved and the presentation is second to none, thank you. I truly hope that in the background there is an apprentice .
Hi Kevin, Thank you very much! Unfortunately, no apprentice just a one man band right now.
Thanks for watching,
Bob
I came across from A2A as well Kevin, and totally agree with you. Mike 🇦🇺
very interesting - looking forward to following along
Wonderful job on building the molds. Really like how you explain the traditional methods along with the way you are doing it.
Thanks for the update Bob.
Have a good weekend.
by the way, sometimes even more convenient than hot air to soften hot melt glue (which usually leaves glue on both pieces), you can use isopropyl rubbing alcohol to make the hot glue release and peel off the surfaces.
Very good demonstration of Table of Offsets and lofting process
Thanks Andrew!
Bob, love your work and your vids. I think it's the first time I've seen you use full size plans. Have you ever used carbon paper?
I just lay out a bunch of carbon paper on my stock, then pop your full size plans over the top and trace the line with a tracing wheel.
Hi Andrew,
The Haven came with full size mold station patterns. I used an awl to make dents to transfer the pattern to the mold material.
You can see this in S2-E4 Setting Up Molds ruclips.net/video/h2B_9MLkFLI/видео.html it starts at 15:45
I have not used carbon paper, though that is a good method.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers,
Bob
Fascinating process, Bob! Fantastic work!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
quality content as usual, keep 'em coming
Always enjoyable.
Great video!
Another great video Bob. Thanks for sharing.
This has been a nice learning process for me. Thank you. I have enjoyed this so far from designing and building the half hull to building this. Stay encouraged and thanks for sharing this with us. I know it is a lot of work to record it let alone building it.
My pleasure
I assume station patterns are placed forward and aft of station lines so you can fair them without losing hull shape. As usual great video, I always learn a lot. I know your motto is “Make It Beautiful”, you should add “and Interesting” since you always do.
Hi Hans,
Yes, you are correct the molds will be faired so that the planks will lay in full contact with the mold.
Cheers, Thanks for watching!
Bob
Master of the boats!
I still think the dinghy should be called Acorn. 😉 Nice work Capt!
Hey, I get it. Then when Steve leaves a dock, he can say, I'll be taking the "Acorn to [the] Arrabella". 😁
Very cool!! Lots of progress, great job!!
Nice use of mixing sticks!
Thanks a lot for all your efforts dear master.
Very interesting as usual. Doesn't the relative thickness of the planking change depending on the angle it crosses the station?
No, all the planking is a uniform thickness throughout the hull.
Thanks for watching.
Bob
Great idea to have a blower to blow away the dust. That's frustrating when using a jigsaw, and I can't see the line. I keep trying to blow air from my mouth, but having a tube blowing air would work great.
Excellent teacher.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks!
Thank You!
Well done!Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Nice video as always. One thing I don’t like. I have to wait two weeks for the next one.
Another informative video Bob. Could I just refer you to a question I asked in comments under the previous video that you may have missed. Cheers, Paul.
Boa tarde podia-me enviar as medidas desses moldes e dessa planta agradecia.
Não, infelizmente ainda não disponibilizei os planos.
Se você estiver interessado em adquirir um conjunto, por favor me avise.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding boa tarde eu quer adquirir um conjunto muito obrigada.
👍
Shouldn’t the moulds be on the inside of the station lines? I.e forward ones aft of the lines and aft ones forward of the lines? Otherwise won’t you need to taper the edges to accommodate the curve of the planking?
As I understand it, those "molds" are already the finished stations. They will be kept in the final boat. Thus he needs some area to fix the planking onto.
(Otherwise: why would he go through the work to cut the inside of the stations?)
I think these are temporary moulds and he’s still to make the permanent bulkheads.
I thought the same, but if there is going to be frames added, this makes sense.
@@michaelreid7750
I think you are right. I just rewatched the buildup for his own boat (it is in S2-E5). There he built the mold the same way and added some ribbands, steamed in the real frames and planked them.
I guess it will be pretty much the same procedure here.
For Victoria, her skin will different than the Haven’s planked method; strip built with a fibreglass final layer. Both methods start the same way, with a strong back and forms.
Sir. Thanks. Why not just leave the molds full?
That will become clear in later episodes. The opening makes diagonal bracing possible.
Thanks for watching!
What about CNC?
While i appreciate your accuracy why subtract the thickness of the planking from the mold? who cares if your boat is 6/8 wider than the plan?
Completely ignorant question from someone who has never built a boat: Instead of laying out the station lines on the lofting board and then using the tongue depressors etc. to transfer them to the molding stock, wouldn't it have been faster to lay out each station line on its respective piece of molding stock to begin with?
Hi Charles,
Lofting a boat become a valuable full size drawing to refer to and check measurements during the build. Laying out directly on mold stock would require laying out both sides on the boat. As you saw in the video It was easy to flip over the pattern for the other side. It would not be faster and be more prone to not having the hull symmetrical.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Makes sense, thank you.
How obvious - after the first time! Guaranteed port and starboard symmetry and the thickness of the battens and the angle of the tongue depressors is irrelevant. Technique actually translates well to making a template to fit any curved surface.
Hi Robert,
Indeed you are correct! An additional benefit is the minimal thickness of the tongue depressors lets the pattern will lay flat when flipped over.
Thank you for watch and your insightful comment!
Cheers,
Bob
Why did you spend all that time spiling the molds? Why not just trace/glue/cut like you did with the other patterns?
Hi Matthew,
As you saw with the "other patterns" I still needed to use a batten to transfer the curve to the pattern. Since the patterns for the molds needed to be used for the port and starboard side the method I used it the most efficient when reducing the station plan by the plank thickness.
Cheers,
ob
Is it just me, or do you make everything more complicated than it need be?
It's just you! Ha, joke. But actually, he usually has a reason for doing things the 'long' way. As well as using the fundamentals to teach and learn he uses methods that work best for him. Accuracy, repeatability, and aesthetics. His is the ART of boat building, not the boat factory.