How to Seal and Pay the Hull Seams on the Haven 12 1/2, S2-E32
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- As the hull is heading toward completion we see how the seams are sealed and payed with seam compound. In the continuing series of building the Joel White designed Haven 12 1/2 Bob Emser, boat builder, guides us through the process of sealing the carvel planked hull as apart of making it water tight.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
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#theartofboatbuilding #artofboatbuilding #makeitbeautiful#woodenboatbuilding #buildingasmallboat #buildingasailboat #shipwright #toolbuilding #Haven12 #herreshoff #shipwright
Thanks Bob, you amaze me with your patience and craftsmanship. She is looking wonderful. Keep up the great work!
"З задоволенням і безмежно можна дивитися на три речі:
- як тече вода,
- горить полум'я,
- і працює фахівець."
😊
Дякую, Боб! Твої відео для мене - як заспокійливий засіб.
Бережи себе! Особливо бережи свої коліна. Застосовуй захист колін. А краще, підійми вище стапель. 😊
Сподіваюся, що з тобою усе гаразд.
Another episode that I am just in AWE over the professional nature of this series. The focus on sharing the experience with the craftsmanship is everything that makes these stand out. This is for sure one of the best series on building anything that I've watched on you RUclips, reminds me of watching Norm on Yankee Workshop.
Hey Bob! That was a nice recap of the last episode and a great tip to mirror the waterline stripe. I really enjoyed the instrumental background music that was a rift on your intro song and the other pieces throughout the video. You editing choices on the segment masking the seams & paying the compound where you integrated real time and time lapse was well done, enjoyable to watch, and satisfying to see the task completed. Maybe too much of a commentary but it was great to see how the non-boatbuilding skills part of your channel have really grown during my binge watching of this season. Well done, looks great, and thanks for sharing.
I saw Bob on the Acorn channel a couple weeks ago. He's really an amazing craftsman! He's got the hands for the job, but he also makes great videos! Talent!
Bob, you are a master craftsman, and you are just a superb and generous teacher. Thank you for all of these videos. Bless you in all that you do.
Wow, thank you!
I really like the idea of using a spoon. I had been using a popsicle stick for filleting epoxy joints,, but now I intend to use a spoon. I think it will work better.
A little spit on your finger works well too. But you start getting quite the case of dry-mouth before too long on a big job like this. Maybe a bit of BLO to dip your finger in? I'd test that on a scrap before using it on a project though.
I am constantly amazed at how you overcome problems (or otherwise to make the task easier) and I bet your forefinger was a bit sore after putting in all that sealer.
Thank you again Bob for another engaging video. Very nice work on the seam paying. Taping really does make for a cleaner looking job. The brown looked like pin striping against the white primer. Take care, stay well and here is hoping you have a nice fall.
You could have used triple tape used in the car body shop to paint stripes. The middle part of that tape is put on the joint and removed before filling. Gives an excellent result.
Beautiful work, Bob! The boat is looking fantastic! 😃
Looking forward to the next video!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great instructional video. Thanks Bob. The spoon trick comes out better on the below water seam compound if you keep the spoon in a beaker of hot water. Dipping it in as you go keep it warm. Looking forward to your next episode and also your next tool making vid also. Cheers.
Thank you Bob!! Waiting to see the final colors of this beauty :D
Thank you Bob. You attention to detail will pay off in the future.
So glad to see you back, Bob. I was waiting not-so-patiently for the newest episode to come out. I love your videos. My Dad always had boats, so I grew up on the water up on Long Island NY. He was into motor boats, but water is water!
Nice work Bob!
Thanks Bob; excellent progress!
Just awesome work. Thanks for class today sir.
As always, you make very educative vids that are extraordinarily entertaining to watch. Thank you.
Jack in Missouri
Thanks 👍
What color to paint the boat? I *think* it was one of the Herreshoffs who said: "There are only two colors to paint a boat: white or black, and only a damned fool would paint a boat black."
In any case this boat is already stunningly pretty. Very inspiring.
Nice job talking the seams, I always felt it makes a cleaner more professional appearance.
Thank you!
It’s really coming along! Thank you for taking the time to shoot these videos, also thank you for taking the extra time to talk about the why’s and reasons for doing things!! This season is just as much educational as it is fascinating! Can’t wait for the next episode, and can’t wait to see keel piece installed!!!
Again Bob a relaxing informative video THANKS YOU
Great series to help the neophyte woodie learn quickly. I'm painting and sealing the bottom of my 1951 Century in a few weeks. Question: I've read that the seams should be primed before caulking and then again after. The way you've done it, to caulk first and then prime, makes more sense to me though. Can you explain your rationale?
Love your show Bob, keep up the great work and thanks for taking the time to make and post them
Is there a reason you did not tape before you added the primer? As usual, great job, you are as good a teacher as you are a craftsman and artist.
Another great video Bob, I never knew there where different seam sealers for above and below the waterline.....I do now. Maybe you could have put the brown seam sealer in a double boiler to keep it warm? My vote for the color is red below the water line, black boot stripe and dark green to the sheer and bright all else.
I very much enjoy your channel thank you doing a channel. I am severely dyslexic life is has been hard. I am 73yrs old. Just a suggestion have ever Warren knee pads.
I know it's not rocket science but a 10 to 1 mix is just over 9%
I was wondering about that too. But a 1% difference isn't going to change much, I guess
Mike O'Malley it could make the entire fleet sink. Lol
This one goes to eleven.
@@Partygirl1450981 it's only a 10% error.
I love the series. At one point you felt that the Haven was not a great beginner project. What do you think of the Gartside #208 16' Double Ender?
Paul's Double Ended Skiff is a beautiful boat. I've also admired it. Paul does note that the build skill level is high on this design. I think a good beginner boat is one without bent frames. There are may skiff plans like that.
Thanks for watching. Let me know if I can help.
Cheers
I would seem to me that the seam compound would go on before the primer. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day and stay healthy.
The primer helps stabilize (seal) the cotton.
@@alexnagle575 I agree, i think the cotton would leach the chemicals out of the compound and make it harden instead of staying pliable.
Just curious, when you punch drain holes in the rim of a paint tin, doesn’t that lead to air drying our the paint, rendering it useless if stored too long?
No. The tenon swaged onto the lid mates with the mortise on the can where the holes are punched and prevents air from entering.
I wondered that too, but the seal is made outside the groove where the nail holes are punched. First saw it on Lou's Tips from a Shipwright. It's worked very well for me.
Or is it inside?? Doesn't matter
No, the holes are mid-seal. They let the paint/contents drain back into the can and the lid seal covers the holes when the lid goes back on. I've seen other shiprights use this technique with paintcan style cantainers as well.
beautiful!!
Thank you!!
at 9 minutes, Bob is channelling Bob Ross...
Amazing work and very knowledgable builder. I learned so much from you ... I start to think of building my own wood boat .. Can you lead me to any source of building an Arabian boat specially from the read sea history. ?
Not sure I know what you mean by "Arabian boat".
The Western Flyer restoration video, episode 26 posted this month shows them using red lead primer during the restoration. See minute 9:42 for example. The primer is from George Kirby Jr. Paint Company in New Bedford, Mass. Their website does not show it available today, so it must be over 40 years old and still useable. Wow!
hey brother ! really awesome knowledge thanks.....heres a question.....shouldnt you spread the seam compound toward the wet when doing final strokes ??
I don't think it much matters. The consistency is more like putty than paint.
Thanks for watching.
Bob
A quick question: At 4:21 you offered a tip to punch a few holes in the rim of the can. Although it doubtlessly helps paint drain back into the can it also raises the question. Wouldn't the paint dry out with holes in the rim?
Just wondering, does adding primer to the cotton then waterproof it and prevent it swelling?
Not an expert or even a novice but I would argue "absolutely not." You want the hull to swell in order to naturally seal it upon entry into water. The issue becomes one of different temperatures the hull is impacted by just from being in the water during both day and night but then of course how the boards wish to separate once pulled out from the water and placed on dry land. This is typically done by "wrapping" the wood (a birchbark canoe by way of example) or creating some type of vapor barrier between the hull and frame of the vessel. Either way the goal is the same namely a dry hull as with a dry hull one can then safely move goods of any type across water without fear of rotting and indeed just use the boat as a "roof" for some type of shelter for doing any type of overnight work.
Not sure why you didn't tape before painting the seams, but okay. The brown sealant sure pops against that [primer?].
Can't wait to see what you choose for color/s. I'd love to see a creamy white bottom and a royal blue stripe with a hand rubbed laquer finish above the stripe, but I'm sure your color choice, as an artist, will look nice, whatever you choose.
However, please, a natural finish on the inside/topside.
Hi Thomas, I taped after painting the cotton so that I could sand the hull one last time.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers!
Does the cotton drink up the primer much? And....Do you do the interior too?
Just put the tip in and tap it on the sides. I have used that lie quite a few times
Are you doing a 10% thinner mix or a 10-1 paint to thinner mix? They are different.
Hi Sterling,
Yes, I'm aware there is a difference. Thinning paint is not an exact science I was just looking to be in the range of 10%. so 10-1 is just a simple way without some math. I'll make that clearer the next time.
Thanks for watching.
Instead of punching holes in your can, simply cover the rim of a newly opened can with masking tape.
Work the tape around the inner edge and let it overhang over the outer edge.
That will keep the seal for the lid and the outside of the can cleen after you remove the tape...
ive been watching your videos ever since i saw you on acorn to Arabella
Thanks!
Bob, did you calk the space between the planks and the transom with cotton and did you apply the sealant as well?
Hi Lac,
I used 3M 5200 Sealant.
Cheers,
Hi Bob, can I ask what the blue tape you are using here is? Thanks.
Its 3/4" wide 3M painters tape.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding It's my genuine pleasure. I'm just about sad that I caught up today. Going to start Acorn To Arabella next!
I'm no mathematician, but if you want to thin your primer 10%, shouldn't you use 9 oz. primer and 1 oz. thinner?
My thought exactly
How about a large syringe to inject the liquid into the seam? That might work a bit better than the brush to really get the primer into the gaps.
If you're looking for color suggestions, I've always been find of blue and brown, I think they look really great together
Do you plan to keep the boat permanently in water? Or will you haul the boat out of the water on a trailer? If you are going to haul the boat out, what happens to the brown compound since it is designed to always be in water?
The boat will live in the water for the boating season. It will come out before the lake freezes and back in after the spring thaw. There are protocols to keep a boat from drying out in the off season.
Thanks of watching!
Asbestos was also removed from auto parts and other things but NASA can still use it the inside of rebuilt traction motors are insulated with red lead paint so if used properly it may still be available from a electronic supply or even a railroad supply. But probably not available for home use. The railroad is a lot more environment friendly today than what it used to be.
Maybe naive question Bob : why not to use brown compound for all the seams, even for those over the water line ?
The brown will dry if not in a wet environment. The white is designed not to dry out.
I have an old italian boat with extremely wide seam gaps, onve it had been caulked with hemp and cement i think, now its time to re-caulk the hull. What if i use a sealant or should i use cotton or hemp? Is there something wrong with tube sealants on wood?
Do not use tube sealant. The cotton or hemp acts as a keyway that helps in making the hull more stable locking the planks together.
Great Question! Thanks for watching.
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding what can i use as cement? The gaps are too wide for cotton to hold by its own.
@@tommasofossati5123 There is a method Called wedge seam construction. Here is a link that describes it.
www.diy-wood-boat.com/wedge-seam.html
Hope that helps!
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding it helps of course, do you have a email address i can write to, if i need more tips?
@@tommasofossati5123 my email is in the about section of my channel.
I would have thought that ablative paint was contrary to the idea of primer. Primer needs to stick well to the wood, ablative paint is designed to ablate, that is fall off as it wears.
Was wondering about this as well...
Not as much fun as working with those beautiful white cedar planks, but a necessary evil. Nice job.
Just curious, if heat rises, why keep the heating pad on top, when it would be better if the heating pad was in the box and then the paint can sitting on top of the heating pad in the box?
Hi Peter,
I'm just wanting to soften the top where I'm acquiring the amount I need. Not trying to heat the entire can.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Loved the look with the blue tape.
Really interesting, thanks.
On the 10%.... 10+1 is 11, do you're just below 10%, not that it matters here.
I wondered too. The result IS 11 fl Oz (as you point out); 1 of which is thinner = ~9%. I wonder if the manufacturer specifies a ratio to avoid just such questions.
@@trinitytoo wish I'd never mentioned it.
But by adding 10% which is what Bob did, the result is the roughly 9% that RB mentioned. To get 10%thinners you take 9+1.
It all depends on whether it's a 10 plus 1 dilution in the instructions, or a 10% in the finished mix. As we don't have the instructions, no way to check.
Either way the discussion should be about clarity, not the I'm right you're wrong approach.
kevgermany I’m glad you mentioned it. Made me look into something I thought was simple. Different definitions. I think it may come down to “dissolved in”. I’ll stick to ratios.
10parts primer plus 1 part thinner is a dilution of 9.09%.
For a 10% dilution, it should be a 9:1 ratio. Simple math really.
6th grade or earlier depending on state guidlines where and when you went through school.
I work at the railroad and we have red lead paint for the string bands on DC generator's I don't know how old it is but we have it.
Hi Gordon, Yes, most likely old stock. Lead in paint was banned in the US in 1978. There were suppliers that had old stock that some found as late as the 2000’s however, it was like buying gold the price was ridiculous.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding yeah, old stock can still be found, but the price is stupid high. That stuff has a rediculous shelf life as long as the seal is unbroken. I have two five gallon buckets in the shed. The former property owner was an L&N maintanance foreman. I have sold a lot of tools to a local railroad museum, but kept some as a monument to this cir. 1820s house I live in. It was originally constructed as an L&N bunk-house. I has settled over the years and has never been jacked back up. It needs a lot of work. The stone and beam foundation has rotted and the whole place is severely warped. My best estimate to jack her up and level her is 35k, that's 6k more than I paid for the house. I also have a storage shed that was originally a pump-cart house. Still has the oak rails in the floor that the hand pump cart was rolled in on.
Now it is a combination of storage and my woodshop (of sorts) ~12 x 16 feet board and batton.
Is no one aware of the environmental and health issues of lead in this thread?
@@dnomyarnostaw I wasn't planning on ingesting it, or allowing my grandchildren anywhere near it. If I use it at all, it will be to repaint my metal roof, the same paint that's already on it, from the previous owner. Once dry it is only dangerous by eating the paint chips. I don't think anyone's children are running around chewing on roofs or the bottoms of boats, the boats engines, or from between the boat's planks.
Hopefully, anyone repairing old boats and houses is disposing of the waste accordingly.
@@thomasarussellsr"trust people to dispose of it properly ". Well, that's why they banned it. Lots of people not disposing of it, plus the expense and trouble of collecting lots of small amounts and processing to make safe.
Edit : I hope your grandchildren dont water vegetables or drink from the roof runoff.
and that's why wooden boats cost more than fiberglass boats, Man that's a lot of work.
There is much beauty in sailing a boat that you have built by yourself and also in the materials that you have used.
A tall ship friend of mine from Maine once related the following anecdote about the color of a boat: "There are only two acceptable colors to paint the topsides of a boat - white or black. And only assholes paint their boats black." The real question is the color of the bootstripe!
If you want to use red lead you can ask Leo at Sampson Boat Co. He's restoring the Tally Ho and makes his own red lead.
Good info. Did he ever feature that process on his series?
@@weinerdog137 he did talk about making it himself. He was a shipwright before he bought the Tally Ho.
Wait, you did a layer of white then a layer of brown? Why the double layer?
The white paying compound is above the waterline and brown is for below the waterline. So only one layer above and below.
Thanks for watching!
The "white" above the water line seam compound is the berries. Just great stuff. Can't say the same thing for the "brown" below the water line stuff. Just don't get it and never have. In my experience --- and I'm not alone --- the stuff just hardens, cracks, and falls out. Absent mixing it with, say, roofing tar, I have no idea why anyone would use it. That said, they do sell plenty of it. I just don't see how something that dries so hard can be good to put in the seams.
Привет из Крыма. Класс!!!!!
благодарю вас (Thank You)
Привет, земляк!
mursicman привет земеля а ты где корни пустил в каком городе я в Симферополе
@@С.И.Н-ю7д Евпатория
What are the odds that the designed water line concurs with the actual water line? Seems like there are too many variables in construction to be accurate with water displacement in use.
Also, why mark a water line?, does it have a function other than aesthetics?
Tom Baker I can’t comment on the actual designed placement of the waterline, but the purpose is to delineate between the hull surface that will be under water most of the time and that which will be above the water. This determines what kind of paint is applied. Some sort of anti fouling paint is used below the waterline, which is unnecessary on the topsides. The scribed line allows the boat to be painted to a consistent sharp line each time it is repainted in the future.
@@FrEdmundScott OK, 👍, thanks.
@@FrEdmundScott also, apparently different putties used above and below the water line, not just different paints.
Is it against wooden boatbuilder laws to use cheap laser levels to do waterlines?
He went into quite a lot if detail about why he wasn't able to use his laser level. You must have missed it.
@@billstevens3796 aha. Not in this video.So, I watched the previous one, and it turned out it was a limitation of his laser. He must have owned an old surveyors one, gimballed to be level.
Twenty bucks for a cheap Painters level would have save hours of tape and battens
Came to the comments when he punched a hole in the can ... genius
You can't buy red lead based compound, but you can buy lead oxide powder and mix it with linseed putty to make your own.
Thr reason you csnt buy it anymore is because its illegal.
Its poison.
Even Duck Hunters dont use lead pellets anymore in reaerves.
@@dnomyarnostaw I work in museums and if it's a historic restoration going on display we can use as much lead as we need to. For boats that are going back in the water we're allowed to use lead compound as long as it's covered in a modern paint. We definitely aren't allowed to use real lead paint anymore though.
What happens when you are healed over?
Different paying compounds because the below the waterline the hull is constantly submerged in water. The brief moments that the topside gets wetted it will not effect the seams.
10% would be 9 + 1 not 10 + 1.
That depends on if you are talking about 10% of the total volume or adding 10% of the volume in addition. It is really up to the chemical manufacturer if 9:1 or 10:1 makes a difference.
You must be a rich man using that much blue tape. I enjoyed the video thanks