What The First 6 Months Did to the Hull - Episode 292 - Acorn to Arabella: Journey of a Wooden Boat
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Steve orchestrates Arabella's inaugural haul out in Rockland, Maine, and it's our first time having a look at Arabella on the hard again. This DIY wooden boat, launched just this past June (2023), Arabella faces a couple of routine maintenance challenges for this short haul-out, notably, substantial damage to the bottom paint due to oak planking swelling.
Steve also gets to the replacement of the zinc anode on the propeller and the careful repacking of the stuffing box with flax packing-a choice informed by Nigel Calder's expertise to mitigate potential galvanic corrosion due to stray current. Whether you're a boat enthusiast or curious about vessel maintenance, Steve's hands-on approach and insights make this video an educational voyage into the world of boat care. After some sailing, let's delve into a maintenance adventure!
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Acorn to Arabella started as a wooden boat building project in Granby, Massachusetts. Steve began the journey as an amateur wooden boat builder crafting a 38' wooden sailboat in his backyard: designer William Atkin's Ingrid with a Stormy Petrel's gaff rig. These videos follow the journey from tree felling, to lumber milling, to lofting, to the lead keel pour and now sailing the boat-sharing details of the woodworking, carpentry, metal smithing, tool building, and tool maintenance that traditional wooden boats command. This ultimate DIY project continues beyond the boat shop, as Steve and crew travel and learn to cruise aboard the handmade wooden boat that they've built. Just kidding about all that, this channel is about a Siberian Laika named Akiva.
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Use some decent primer. (Oil based aluminium oxide) Primacon etc. It’s worth spending money on. I’ve been working on wooden boats for 18 years and have never seen primer come of timber in 6 months. Even on oak. Anti fouling failing off is one thing but your primer should be saturated into the wood not just sitting on the surface. Good luck with it all.
Totally agree. Only in the US have i seen the primer step skipped on new work, which seems to be fine only once the planking has settled after a few years. Here in UK that hull would have had at least 3 coats of primocon or similar vinylester coating and in days gone by, as toxic as you like red lead paint was preferred. I think i am right in saying that Tally Ho's team debated this topic and decided to prime in the end, so it will be interesting to see her hull at her first haul out.
Two guys workin on hindu are quite possibly the best wooden shipwrights in the area. Shoutout to mike and simon for keeping so many boats floatin.
Yeah we’re lucky here in Maine. I keep meaning to get down there to introduce myself! -Anne
@@AcornToArabella be nice to see what their up to
SOOOOOOO GLAD I DONT OWN A WOODEN BOAT!
Please re-do the packing. You should have THREE pieces of packing in that nut! You want to cut the ends on a 45 degree angle relative to the centerline of the shaft. This double bevel keeps water from getting around the ends of the packing.
Check marine how-to "Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box"
As my boat has a 1" shaft, I keep a short length of 1" stainless tubing on board. I use it to cut and perfectly trim the three pieces of packing in comfort so I don't destroy the packing while holding a boat yoga pose. 😄
Fair winds from SV Jane Ann
Yes, I would have thought you'd have 3 lengths with the joints at 120 degrees from each other around the shaft as well as the 45 cuts on the end so that there was no ta single straight path through it for the water.
Can confirm. Retired surveyor here.
Agree, my boat takes 5 pieces (it is a very old stuffing box) also we just use ordinary automotive grease and heaps of it. In loose but snug with lots of grease then first trip out adjust while running to get a drip of water about every 5 seconds. but nothing at rest. Also we have lots of shaft outside so wrap packing around it in a coil then cut the 45 against shaft all at same time. the gland has a grease niple which on ours has a copper tube up to convienient location so extra grease can be added when needed.
As a boat builder retired you beat me to it
Everybody beat me to it. three rings with a 45º cut at the end and the cuts offset by 120º. It can be redone in the water although it is a bit scary.
Omg…..as a non mariner but a keen follower I could not believe what six months in the water had done to her. Enjoyed the video it was a real reflection on what a tight community the boating world is. The affection shown to your dog was heart warming. Have a great Christmas.
Yeah, from museum piece to just another wooden project boat in six months.
SO happy to help anytime!! Awesome work guys!
🙌thanks, team!
Total Boat is known in my loungeroom and I fly hang gliders, although I do also own a kayak. That's a good job at the TB Marketing Dept!
Hi Steve, when we pack or repack glands we scarf the packing ends. I am sure with your knowledge, thinking about, it you will realise why. better sealing face. Best wishes from Scotland and a HAPPY NEW YEAR. Francie
Happy New Year!
Cheat code on the anodes. put a drop of nail polish over the bolts and their immediate surrounds. This helps hold the anode together and secured on the prop until it is completely worn away. Otherwise it is not unknown for the anode to erode around the securing pins and for the anode to fall off long before the majority of the anode is worn away.
I would call the paint a failure
A traditional stuffing box would usually have three pieces of packing. The ends should be cut at an angle to form an overlapping seal and these joints should be staggered around the stuffing box. 👍
Sounds like rings on a piston. That makes sense!
I was just in the process of posting the same thing when I noticed this post.
Those are for high pressure applications. There should be no appreciable water pressure on this seal.
Unless Arabella sinks lower in the water.
Thought the same, from working on pumps
Awe Akiva! What an undignified exit from the boat. She will be back in the water soon enough. It is amazing how fast the deck looks worn. Aaron needs to come swab the deck! I hope he and his family are doing well. I miss his little self. I bet it feels great seeing her back in the water. Still praying for your mom. Have a great week.
Needs a holystone 🤣😂.
A boat that is treated like a piece of furniture should stay on your mantle, it’s use is where it’s character develops.
Usually the packing nut takes 3 layers of packing with the cut ends cut at a 45 and alternating opposite each other
She looks great after 6 months. Again great work, Steve, Robin, George and of course Akiva.
The morale officer is hard at work! 😁🐾
No, it doesn't look great at all. Maybe it's par for owning a boat, but there's a lot of restorative work to do.
Thank you 🥰✌🏽💐
A captain always goes up with his ship. ;-)
A good idea for a new wooden boat like that would be to sail down south to warmer climes because you know your first haul out you’ll have to scrape and repaint the bottom. If you’re already down south, the temperature at which you’ll apply the paint won’t be an issue anymore. And generally speaking, I’d say it’s always a better idea to go down south to do maintenance and repairs, and I mean wayyy down south, like Central or South America, as everything (save US materials) will be cheaper down there. One To Grow On! 🌈
Looks like Rockland. I should had looked for you this past summer
In future cut the shaft packing like this / it will reduce the wtaer seeping through by a good amount but will still let some by
Here I am in a reasonable climate overflowing with advice and "should have done." There you are in a climate that includes something called "winter" where water has a solid state. You guys are getting it done. I'll save all of my sagacity for when I decide to thin out a forest and build my own boat from scratch. No doubt, should I live so long, I'll be reviewing your videos when I come across issues. Good job, folks!
Wood boats and paint problems are a fact of life. But, your energy and commitment to Arabella from the very beginning will guarantee a successful outcome. Good luck and a very Merry Christmas to you, Robin, Akiva and Arabella! Michael, Norwalk Ct. ❤️🇺🇸🎅🏻
Happy Friday and thank you, Michael!
Yup I made the suggestion before you painted. To do a low brine wash on the haul planks to swell them while measuring the gaps closing. Just to keep this from happening, But you replyed back it will be fine. By no means am I gloating. ❤❤Just very sorry I had to say I told you so. Teflon packing rope is the best to use in stuffing boxes and valve bonnets we used them in the U.S. Navy to no ends.
You didn't HAVE to say I told you so, you chose to gloat.
@@daleanderson88 By no means am I gloating. ❤❤Just very sorry I had to say I told you so.👈👈👉👉Learn how to read before you comment.
Happy Friday! The fresh paint looks good!! A continuity test on that gasket material would be revealing..
Yes I agree, the first thing I would have done is get out my test meter and see if there were any conductivity on that stuffing material. Looking at it I'm pretty sure that there is plenty of graphite in the woven strands, thus making it conductive. Come on Steve, do the test and show us!
Of course it has continuity, it's graphite impregnated. Makes no difference in a stern gland anyway (unless it is itself causing corrosion). There is a distinct lack of any anodes for the rest of the stern gear and rudder hangings, engine etc and in fact the hull itself, correctly it all should be connected by a bonding cable and to the relevant hull anodes. The prop anode is only there for the propellor itself and isn't sized for the entire vessel.
I'm a marine engineer and boat builder/surveyor and the first (and last) thing you do is measure the voltage difference between the water and all the metal components (with and without the electrical circuits switched on) under about 0.5V is good. Then start bonding everything to the primary hull anode. There's an engine amongst other things in there and depending on how well it was marinised there can be electricity wandering everywhere. On a marine engine the entire electrical sytem must be isolated seperately.
Wow seeing Arabella out of the water again, I only now realize how deep her draught is. She sits very deep in the water.
Ocean-going, displacement-hull boats are like that!
When I was an engineering apprentice, I was taught that instead of butting the joins on the shaft packing it should be cut at an angle so that the ends create a seal when tightened. Like a scarf in a plank. This way the water can only leak between the shaft and packing gland, not through the butt joint aiding lubrication of the shaft.
Hi, I think it's typically 2 or 3 pieces of packing in the stuffing altering where the seam lays. An old timer on my first vessel suggested a zurk fitting on the packing nut. While dripping, when running is necessary. Not so at anchor or dock side. One dose of greese when finished kept my wooden boat bilge dry. Cheers from Northern California!!!
You do not want a traditional stuffing box to be dry if the boat has a stainless prop shaft!
316 stainless must be exposed to oxygen in order to resist rust and crevice corrosion. The stuffing box MUST leak in order to keep the water in the shaft log oxygenated.
Keeping a couple of sponges on board is a LOT less expensive than (best case) replacing a shaft or (worse case) the prop and shaft falling off because thr shaft corroded and broke.
@@RechargeableLithium Hi, a little greese dosen't render the box dry when running it only stops the dripping when at anchor. Dripless boxes stop all water all the time from entering the boat. It's wet like a traditional to the point whare the graphite plate meets the stainless barrier. On a traditional same place as the stuffing nut. Hay I was 28 then I'm 70 now the old timer was in his 80's then. Don't like it Don't use it. I do and I'll continue. Cheers
@dhincks1 Thanks for the info about the grease. I use synthetic packing with impregnated PTFE as it is with no added lube (per manufacturer recommendations, in other words - for both stuffing box and packing). I have no problem adjusting the stuffing box to drip when the shaft is turning and not drip when stopped.
Check marine how-to "Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box" for the best info I've found, with photos of why the "don't do this" is as it is.
Separately, as someone with a past life in high tech lubricants, I'd be careful with using modern lubes in very old ways. While 80 year old grease might be compatible with 80 year old packing, mixing modern lubricants and synthetic packing can lead to damage to packing and corrosion In metals.
I'm only 60 and grew up seeing people hold on to beliefs that went from tolerable to harmful as time and materials progressed. Old isn't always better.
You use 'what' grease in 'what' stuffing box made from 'what' materials with 'what' packing and 'what' shaft? All are important!
Cheers, Andy
@dhincks1 Additionally, there is no "dripless" seal - the ones with the graphite disk is "drip-LESS" and should never 'not' drip. The shaft needs oxygenated water, and the seal must leak in order to bleed any air that might be pushed in when in reverse. Trapped air removes the lubrication (water!) from the packing and it can reach 300 ° F - too hot for grease, too.
My father - former Navy Diesel ship engineer used teflon rope for packing the stuffing boxes on our inboard boats, I cannot remember him using anything else, the last time the box in our Chris Craft was repacked was the 1980's when we built the engine. My cousin used it without incident in the summer of 2024
As a side note -
I have been painting wicker furniture, tables, mahogany boats (chris craft) since I was 7 years old and have never seen anything come off so quickly... the primer coat appears to have adhered well. I believe the paint was applied too thick.
@AcornToArabella since your stuffing box is connected by the rubber hose to the boat/shaft pipe there can not be an electrical connection where the stuffing material an its electrical connectivity would be important. The only thing which would be connected by the old (graphite) stuffing material would be the stuffing box itself.
Only thing i could imagine is that there are steel wires in the rubber hose that would make a connection. Simply test the connectivity between the stuffing vox and the shaft pipe with the multimeter.
That’s what we did a little while back in the episode with Nigel Calder, we went step by step through the assembly to see if anything obvious like that was happening. As you’ll see in the video, for the materials that we could reach with a multimeter, the only thing that was different from best practices with a cruising boat such as this was the packing material… which of course we couldn’t test/isolate at the time. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella i have seen the video. There are 2 pathways for the current:
Water - shaft - motor - motormounts - boat
and
Water - shaft - packing - stuffingbox - rubber hose - shaft pipe - boat
In the second path the rubber hose should be a good isolator so there shouldn't be an electrical connection. And therefore the connectivity of the stuffing material would be irrelevant
But, and maybe you can’t see here, it’s packed onto the bronze and does come in contact with water.
Steve , looks like the bottom paint and seams were a one time experience because everything was new , she looks beautiful , raising the waterline looks better, a red one inch strip above the bottom paint makes it look nice , I did that to my boat years ago , made the topsides pop ? Think about it next time , use red tape to test the look first ? It helps.
I dislike the extra work of taping for a boot stripe, and it’s largely aesthetic, so when I painted the boat back in May and June, with all the other work, there was NO WAY that was going to happen. 😊 happy Friday to you and thanks for watching! -Anne
The packing looks like graphite valve stem packing. The PTFE will be a better fit. We used to use dry flax and marine stable grease. With a weekly greasing schedule via a nipple
PTFE is SO much better 🤞
Wow that 28 minutes went quickly and wow what a mess the hull was and barnacles as well! At least is is painted and smooth now and should last much longer. Kudos to Total Boat for their support. Love the new waterline.
Steve, Usually one adds two or three rings of packing with the joints opposing. Looked like you used just one in the video but that may have been just editing. This allows easier control of water flow, less tight and lots of "slack" for adjustments as the packing settles in to position.
Steve, I have not seen only one packing, have always placed 2 and most of the time 3 rings in. Offset the seams if you add more.
Well, now I am really impressed. You backed up Arabella like a pro. Not an easy task with a heavy full keel boat. Cheers.
It’s not! One time I was cruising a full-keeled boat and we backed into the free docks in Elizabeth city, North Carolina, and it took so many attempts (4?) that the bridge operator who we had just talked to over VHF to open the bridge offered to open the bridge again for us so that we could go to a different dock on the other side where we wouldn’t have to back in. 😅 ha! -Anne
I believe I sailed on Hindu in Key West. We were racing another sailboat and they said we were doing 17 kn. It was an awesome experience.
Hoooo! Wow! Thanks for sharing that memory!
Just came across your channel after watching the channel A boat by the river, they're building a beautiful cold molded strip planked sailboat.. I'd love to see you guys put together a video of all the highs , lows and in-betweens of your journey in a single hour long or so video of just the build.
not surprised as you said the wood moved more than the paint can cope with ist all part of boat life great job on the bottom paint and other fixes
Except that most boats are planked in cedar. Cedar doesn’t move as much dimensionally, and most boats will only get hauled out for a few months at a time and then put back in. Arabella, being a completely new boat planked in oak means that we painted surfaces that were one size, and then asked hybrid hard/ablative paint to cover a larger size a few months later. Thanks for watching! -Anne
Could have been interesting to see a comparative ohms reading of an inch of the old and new stuffing material...
Hope you got rid of the galvanic corrosion! Have a great friday!
Here’s hoping! Happy Friday! 🙌
@@AcornToArabella The staining on your fingers from handling the original packing indicates it is graphite impregnated.
Glad to see Arabella held up as well as she did, though I never doubted she would.
@singlekceven a simple continuity test.
I was similarly thinking thatit would be in the future interests of the many people watching this series if you were to check for electrical conductivity through the original sterntube packing material. I get that you don't know the source, but that seems all the more reason to check if it's conductive (and to check if there is now isolation between sterntube and propshaft)
Why not use a garlock packing?
Thank for sharing your adventures. The correct way to cut the packing is to angle the cut at both ends like a scarf joint to extend the overlap compared to a straight cut. Then you should also offset the joint areas by 120 to 180 degrees depending on how many pieces you use.
I remember seeing some of those seams as big as 1/4” at the back. Amazing how tight the seams got.
Oak!
That's perfectly normal on a wood planked hull..
@@AcornToArabellaWhat type of oak did you use? Was it true white oak? From my experience most of what is called white oak is not and will absorb a lot of water. True white oak will not absorb much water. Of course any species of wood will absorb some water, so I understand planks are always going to expand and cause the seams to shrink. Just curious about what species you used. I’m sure you told us but I can’t remember. I always thought it was neat how some wooden boat builders would shovel sawdust into the water around the boat when it’s first launched. The sawdust would get sucked into the seams, temporarily sealing them until the planks had time to swell making the seams watertight. Anyway the boat is looking awesome and I hope you had a merry Christmas and a happy new year.
Good morning gang!! Arabella is looking great!!
Happy Friday, Bill!
You could set up a test stack of a piece of stainless, some of the suspected graphite and a piece of bronze to see if you have continuity through the stack. Then compare that to a continuity test on the new configuration in the boat.
The problem Nigel called out wasn't graphite's conductivity, it was graphite's position in the galvanic series.
@@willyshopdotcom ahhh, missed that part. Thank you
Greetings from a slighly damp Bedfordshire. The joys of wooden boats! Looking forward to the next sailing season..
Happy Friday! We are too!
I'm so impressed that you built that. Great work!
Happy Friday from the north of France!
Happy Friday! ☕️
It’s great that the planks have taken up so well. Back in the deep blue 👍
Happy Friday, and thanks!
Thanks. Never seen that stuffing go in like that. It’s normally 3-4 turns and opposing 45° joins. Having said that there doesn’t seem room for that many winds.
She looked good when I saw her! Keep on keepin' on, 'bella fam. Happy Friday! ☕
Awww thanks! Happy Friday!
Well done Steve , Akeva stole the show, what a beautiful nature he has, have a great Christmas.
The white PTFE or whatever packing has no graphite and I saw the shaft anode looks like it wasnt secured correctly. Unless you were in the middle of changing it lol
Always something to do...gotta roll with the punches...she is a beautiful boat in and out of the water.
Cheers!
The packing on Arabella is different from on my boat for sure. I am surprised you don't need two rings of packing where the seems are 180 degrees apposed. Stay warm!
I’m sure Steve did that, mine has always needed same. -Anne
yeah i'd be worried there's another layer in the cap. for my rudder box i've got three strips of packing - one just doesn't seem sufficient.
I agree. Used to pack mill pumps with gland packing. Two layers and angle cuts not square. Cuts aligned 180 degrees.
@@brentchalmers1436 Yeah I used to pack pumps for paper mills and we did 3 to 4 layers with angled cuts. Lasted about 16mo of 24hr operation before replacement. Smarter customers bought labyrinth seals.
Am I right to believe that Nigel was correct when he said that the collar zinc was loose on the shaft and rattling around, hence the fluctuating readings he was seeing on his meter?
Is there a video in your lineup that addresses this and the alternator swap already?
Would you ever consider adding more zincs to the hull?
I have seen bottom paint blow off in the presence of stray current...
Top tip: try your best when painting parts with partially painted surface, to feather the paint edges of what patches are there before adding new paint. Will bond the new paint to old paint better.
Luckily, bottom paint will stick to just about anything that you sand with 80 grit sandpaper, as most instructions on bottom paint will recommend. it doesn’t behave like a lot of other paints, because it is a very different job. -Anne
Those 10 inches of blue paint above the water line look really good. I know it was done for practical reasons, but it was an aesthetic plus.
Put the probes of a volt/ohmmeter on the surface of the old packing. Turn the dial to ohms. If it shorts, the packing is conductive.
I'm with George, wouldn't have any problem working on such a awesome wooden boat. Stuff happens, you gotta get it done to get back on sail!
We've all heard about going down with the ship, this is the first time I've ever seen someone go up with the ship 😊😊
😊
Cabinet makers, way back when, used to scrub new Oak with a solution of water and lye - to 'melt' the sap and make a 'footing' for the first coat of clear. Here's to hoping seawater has done that to your new planks.
Always employ a mechanical paint mixer as soon before application.
Everyone should be quite cautious about what they add to antifouling paint. The stuff is pretty persnickety about its effectiveness after certain additives are introduced, and if there’s any question, technical help should be sought before potentially ruining a whole can of expensive coating. 👍🙌 -Anne
AH! I added that little PSA, realizing that you meant “mix that paint real good before you put it up there,” which is super sound advice. Cheers!
That packing is graphite. As a plumber, we use the same stuff for old steam valves. Hope that helps.
Thanks for posting and sharing.
And thanks for watching! Glad you’re here!
In true Arabella spirit you found a problem , got after it and managed to get her back in the water looking solid . Glad you raised the waterline that looks much tidier as Capt. Q would say . Season Greeting from San Diego to the whole Arabella crew !
Another really interesting video. This ongoing adventure will continue to be fascinating and I enjoy watching. I can see now too why continued financial support is important as the ongoing maintenance costs of a nice boat is not insignificant. I really appreciate the videos and Anne's thoughtful and patient responses to questions and criticisms. Hope Steve's Mom is doing ok and am curious how Alix is doing and if he and his family have had an opportunity to go out on the boat with Steve. Thanks again for the great videos! Steve is amazing.
Nice work on repainting the haul. Hope the new material ends the stray voltage problem. Are you planning to winter near Boston ?sure. Enjoy the updates on Friday as you get about lives aboard.
Thanks for watching and glad you’re enjoying! I think the boat will end up below the cape. -Anne
Nice job getting that done quickly, in less than ideal temperatures! good to see that the packing has been replaced. It will be interesting to see if that solves things.
Wounds to the hull like you see after the lift, is why I'm so very much for solutions that seals the wood properly long before the bottom paint and antifouling goes on. Even if you do that right, there will be damage, but it will be less deep and there will be little time needed for drying. The challenge sealing the materials using some modern two component fluid is to get the coverage to be 100% or the water will penetrate behind. Think of it as wood armor, that's how I see it.
To add it though the hell need to be clean and pristine bare wood, so that it can penetrate into the wood before layering over the protection. I know this is something mostly done on glassfiber boats, but it works for wood too.
OMG it's been 6 months in the water already??? My how time flies
It does!
Happy Friday from Normandy,....cheers richard
Happy Friday, Richard!
below the water line looks really good... maybe bring the blue paint up another foot help hid the line a bit
I have a timber boat - stopped using zinc anodes 15 years ago - use mild steel anodes - works a treat.😊Less issues.
Make sure you get all of the packing out. I have had issues with digging the first layer out.
hey, i lived for some time in Rockport! again i urge you to head over to the center for furniture craftsmanship! they have some of the best woodworking there, and are very friendly. their gallery is worth seeing too!
Very cool! Thanks for the recommendation!
Please tell me you have tested the conductivity of the old packing you removed? If it is not conductive, it’s a warning you need to keep thinking and exploring your galvanic issue. If it is conductive, they yay, the theory might fit.
Bottom looked relatively good. Seams all looked fine, paint issues are solvable. Would recommend on re-launch to use Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing spray on the prop. Great growth protector and backs up the zincs
🙌
He already relaunched at the end of the video
Great to see you have some sea miles under Arabelle but its a shame about the anti fouling coming off. However it almost looks as if you were expecting something like this but maybe not to the degree it happened. Regarding the stuffing box, I see another watcher has commented on this and I agree. I served an apprentices ship in a marine environment with a large shipping company and have packed many shafts. I notice you using scissors to cut the packing, may I suggest wrapping the packing around the shaft and cut using a sharp bladed knife at 45 degree. Go past the full turn and then cut across both ends. When installing put the joints opposite each other. Certainly do need more that one turn of packing. Maybe next time you haul consider modifying the nut to accommodate. Hope this helps. Enjoy a safe and Merry Christmas. Cheers Ian New Zealand
Steve was a little surprised (hopeful? He had so much work to do already) about the antifouling paint chipping, but I wasn’t really all that surprised. Aside from oak not taking paint as easily as does cedar, the surface area of the boat increased, asking paint to do something that it simply would not do. It’d be an unreasonable expectation, really. Given the way that the paint adhered to areas where grain was tighter, and how little marine growth there was… this new boat faired well, I think. Thanks for the packing tips, I think this comment section will be very useful to people on down the line searching for good info! -Anne
She's riding beautifully!!!
Clever to haul out for a fresh bottom job. This second coat will last you much longer, and now you know your seams have shut correctly. 💪
Great work getting the bottom painted in less than ideal conditions, so great to see her pulling away from the lift, smooth as silk!
Keep on. “ keeping on!
Try Velox Plus from Marlin Yacht Paints on the props, running gear and other metals. No horrible silicon and known to work well. Use with their metal primer.
Classic for wood boats. Good job pulling it out before things got too bad. I've heard people talking about it say you need a few more haulouts early in a wood boat's career, and then you get to a "regular" maintenance schedule after the first couple years. Also, good call raising the waterline paint. You got a whole lot more Oak in your hull than the Astrid plan actually called for and OAK IS HEAVY. So, yeah, sitting a few inches deeper in the water or so probably shouldn't be too much of a surprise.
Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Happy Friday to you!
Three steps forward, one step back. (As expected) Good work!
🙌happy Friday!
as usual great video. I wanted to repeat what you told me when I asked about the how you determine the water line, you told me it was magic. Now I see how to you do it, You place it in water and mark the line, lol.. It looks great. May the wind always be at your back.
😁
i have had great luck with S1 sealer epoxy as the primer now under my bottom paint; no more problems with adhesion due to shrinking/swelling or knots in the cedar planking in my boat.
Did you avoid your seams?
A great video update Ben. Nice to see Arabella has a nice new coat of bottom paint to protect her until the spring. Thanks for sharing!
I know this is a big request but, I would to see a picture of the biggest seam before you steamed the wood, just before you painted the seam, and what it looks like now. I know you showed these seams in the prior videos and hope you already have a picture pulled from videos. For the packing, The Navy told me to scarf the ends of the packing and to make sure the joints are staggered. Something to think of for the next repacking, on a Repair ship and learned a lot about repacking pumps and other things.
I was a pipe fitter when I was young. Every year factories would shut down for two weeks for maintenance. I have packed a lot of valve glands. If corse we didn’t want any leaks but the principal was the same. I was taught to cut the packing materials mostly graphite impregnated on a 45 degree angle and there were several layers stacked one over the other and stager the seams or ends so they wouldn’t lineup. I understand that you want some leakage but cutting at an angle made it easier to get the length correct. Some large valves would be 3-4 layers deep and we had tools to pull the packing out. Well that was nearly 60 years ago and still remember it clear as a bell. Bless you and be safe.
Thanks for the note and sharing your experience.
Oh, yeah! This video was just fantastic! You guys rock!
I learned a lot about this. The wood "moved" and it caused the paint to flake off.
Hopefully the wood is done "moving," so it doesn't need to be scraped off and repainted anymore. However, if it does, it will be a whole lot less, next time.
Steve, you're getting it, and your explanations are really succinct and highly educational!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I do not know if it really maters but there is a way to cut and wrap box packing: First wrap the packing around the shaft in a most accessible place keeping the packing on the shaft (not overlapping 2 layers) pulling it tight, with a sharp box knife blade extended and parallel to the shaft while tilted at 45 dgr (or flatter) cut 2 consecutive sections of the packing to give you a nice fitting ring, (pay attention to the forward rotation of the shaft while making the cut left or right as to have forward motion tightening the packing not loosening it.
Not what you expected below the waterline. It good ya hauled out as you did. Research bottom paints that favor temperature demands for winter app. Your a through builder so I pray all will be well in a couple weeks. Merry Christmas and best to wishes for your mother.
As far as we know, the TotalBoat Spartan paint is just fine in lower temperatures after it’s cured. It is a hard wearing paint, and everywhere the grain was tighter in the oak it held on like a champion and had no marine growth. 👍
I carried the same initial scraper on my boat back in the day.
Akiva is such a polite boy. Giving his paw like that for a treat is part of the 'guide dogs for the blind' puppy training her in the UK.
Personally I think it's just a good bit of manners when it comes to food.
Good boy Akiva. 😄👍
Akiva says AWOOOOO! ♥️🐾♥️
@@AcornToArabellaAwoooooooo!
Sounds like an excellent first haul out. Acorn on!
My little dog will sit and stare at me with that exact look. Usually she wants food, but sometimes it's a complete mystery.
😁🐾♥️
for seams with good caulking, or when you're done, then it's time for international slick seam
I loathe scraping paint. Youre a better man than I.
Dear Arabella's Acorns. 😁 ;-)
👍👌👏 Oh WOW, you tackled all this pretty fast. My deep respect! Thanks for putting it in just one episode (some other utubers would've made at least 2 episodes out of this content). 2) Because I've not much knowledge about wooden boats, I was totally shocked 😱 how Arabella's underwater hull looked after only 5- 6 months in the water. The good thing is, that the planks have become so much bigger that the seams almost disappeared. 3) I really hope and wish you that the issue that caused the zinc anode to disappear extremely fast is solved with the new packing.
As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and especially health to all involved people and Akiva. 💚
If indeed that packing is impregnated with graphite. Graphite wrapped around the steel shaft could in effect act like a generator...albeit with a very-very minimal voltage output like you were finding. Might explain the increase in voltage as your rpm's increased and decreased. I saw someone mention that it could also be piezo electric effect, which also makes a lot of sense, since graphite, crystals like quartz, diamond, as well as ceramic and other materials can incur a piezo electric effect under pressure. You may have indeed created a mini piezo electric generator that was also acting a bit like an electrolytic capacitor to boot, as Nigel pointed out. At any rate, glad you got the issues in the boat sussed out. Arabella, her crew and all her volunteers are pretty stellar. Firs star ta yah right.
Good Morning From Sandwich, MA
Happy Friday, Bud! We were just there for a little bit!
Sorry I missed you. @@AcornToArabella
Could the copper in the bottom paint be playing a role in the anode disappearing? It could be creating a conductive path to water through fasteners inside the boat that are electrically connected to the engine
If that were the case, many boats would have the same problem. Copper bottom paint is quite common.
Ohh as you predicted…the boards would swell..and the paint would crumble. Looking way better nicely painted up.
Sail covers will greatly extend the life of your sails.
Yeah, he's going to end up with ruined sails pretty quick. UV is a thing.
They're planned for and coming soon, IIRC
@@tomnewsom9124 yeah, but "soon" is a funny word. They've been months exposed to the UV. That's no bueno.