Facts. And boat builders that take the time to set up cameras, lights, create content then edit and produce videos in addition to building a boat are a special breed of exhausted, insane people.
It was such a pleasure to meet you at the boat show in Mystic. Looking forward to watching the rest of your build and can't wait for Arabella's launch. Also keep Steve and his family in your prayers as they go through a rough time.
That cedar looks beautiful. Interesting interview with the CLC crew. I have seen the cove and round over strip pattern before but never the trapezoidal pattern. Very interesting idea
Well I must admit Bob that's one hell'a va lot of table saw cutting to get those strips cut up for this project looking forward to the build looks very interesting thus far, from the bit that I've seen.
Another great video Bob. Your bronze casting work is amazing. Please add some more of this content if you can find the time. That Haven 12 1/2 is a dream. I so look forward to see you launching it in the Spring. Thanks for sharing!
An irregular twisted bunch of boards can made useful again. Maybe there hope for me too. Best wishes to all the viewers and happy holidays. To Bob and your family, many blessings.
I just found your RUclips videos. Although I don’t build real boats, I do build model ships and boats as a hobby and with some slight modifications I find your instructions for building real boats very helpful to me to build my model boats. The techniques are very similar. Your explanation and instructions are very clear and easy to understand. I look forward to watching all your videos. PS. I don’t build real boats because it’s tough to build one in the condominium where I live, but it’s not a problem to build a 10 inch model Barry from Delray Beach, Florida.
Bob, thanks for making a whole video on cutting strips. For those of us who don't have a pile of 100 year old cedar planks in our yard, new cedar has become VERY expensive. So all that sawdust is costly. I've found I can get the thinnest kerf using a 7 1/4" skilsaw blade in my table saw. It has a thinner kerf than any 10" blade, but it's plenty stiff because it's smaller, and it's big enough to cut up to 1 1/2 " stock. I just run a block plane over the edges for the strips on the bilges. Not a perfect running bevel, but it's quick & works fine once it's glassed inside and out. I like John Harris' idea of parallelogram strips - have to try that.
Thank you for sharing this Bob. I have thought of building a Yankee Skiff from one of John Gardner's books, but building it for light use not the heavy construction used for oystering. This method of strip planking would be perfect for the lighter boat build. Again, thank you for the video and best wishes for a great holiday season.
Thanks Matt, I hope you to have a great holiday season as well. I would love to talk with you about your project. You can schedule a call with me at this link. calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building I look forward to chatting with you. Cheers, Bob
Really great content bob!! I’m building a strip composite 4.6m fishing boat in Australia- I’m using the bowdidge marine designs strip plank method where you lay 15x30mm paulownia strips on the moulds with a 3mm tile space in between each plank and fill with thickened epoxy - faired and glassed - the shapes you can create with this method are unbelievable!
I assume it is for speed and efficiency but my question to you is why do you not use feather boards to hold the planks into a uniform position as you pass them through the saw? I love your spacing jig. It is so simple. I have no idea why this never occurred to me over the years. I normally use a pencil mark on the table. Your jig just became my new favourite tool.
I build a lot of strip canoes. I use 3 thin kerf blades ganged together with spacers. That’s as wide as the mandrel on my unisaw will allow. Lets me cut three cedar strips in one pass. Been doing this for years. I don’t bead and cove either. I do like the angle though. I’ll try that on my next batch of strips.
This is a very effective and efficient use of the stock at hand. I also was noticing how many of the lathe strips are quarter sawn. Makes the finished product strong and beautiful. Too bad it will wind up being under glass.
Thanks Don, Part of my excitement of the project was getting to use these wonderful old timbers. The hull will be painted which is Steve's choice. If however, he did want it to have a bright finish (natural) the glass cloth and resin would become invisible. This is how all modern kayaks and canoes that have bright finishes are built. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks for the information. I keep learning more from you all the time. I am anxious to see the strip installation process. Peace on Earth
Bob....your table saw skill is so impressive! I personally would have been nervous that the curve of the board would have creeped up on the blade, twisted and spit back at me. Excellent job!! If I had a Herreshoff as beautiful as yours, I would set it up in the middle of my living room! Your watch is VERY cool! What came first; the watch or your design and then it was put on your watch? DD
About cutting the strips: With all the irregularities in the shape of the planks, how did the thicknesses of the strips work out? With the tendency of the plank to wander away from the fence, it would seem like some variation would be inevitable. (With glassing, perhaps that wouldn’t matter.). I’ve been cutting strips for a lamination glue up and I’ve had good results with Jess Em stock guides. I’ve also thought of cutting the strips a bit thicker than I needed and then running them through the planer - but that would create a little more waste. Thanks for the video - looking forward to the planking.
Hey Bob! I’ve been following you and Arabella since the beginning. Just a small geometry note on the thickness of the strips. If I followed correctly and you measured 3/8” across the *angled face* of the strip and if you cut it at 15 degrees the *thickness* directly across (90 degrees to the long face) is actually 3/8” x cos(15) which is closer to 23/64”… or about 1/64” thinner than 3/8. It’s a small amount but it’s about 3.5% thinner than I think you intended. Just something I noticed! It’s probably fine.
Hi Nathan, I am cutting the strips at 3/8" width. I show that measurement at 14:16. As you said 1/64 is not a concern, as when the hull is faired I most likely will sand of more than .4 mm (1/64") off. I often quote Greg Rössel to my Boat Building Bootcamp builders.(www.boatbuildingbootcamp.com/) " And don't look for perfection. We're not building a Steinway piano. The goal is just good old-fashioned clean workmanship - a job that fits well and looks good. 'Nuf said" From "Building Small Boats" by Greg Rössel (page 2 introduction) Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Sorry Bob, acicdently gave you a thumbs down when I meant to do the opposite. I did give you a thumbs up after that. Really enjoyed the video. I built a Jem Watercraft Sabalo out of ply some time ago, but would like to try a strip planked boat too. I will be watching with interest.
So, when I'm ripping a board into strips of uniform width, even something like 3/8", I set my fence that distance away from the blade and rip them all without having to reset the fence, or indeed turn the saw off. However, mine is a left-tilt saw, so there's less risk of the workpiece getting trapped between the blade and fence and kicking back. I don't think I'm being dangerously foolhardy, but I've been wrong before.
Why did you choose to cut your strips against the grain, as opposed to with the grain as the planks were originally machined? Beautiful material - hard to source today.
Yes, minimally in a strip this narrow. Grain across the thickness (quarter sawn) is ideal. Generally cedar strips are the hulls substrate. The real strength comes from the fiberglass in the inside and out side of the hull.
Since the dinghy is gonna be glassed and painted you could use 1/8 tile spacers to make gaps between the strips and fill with thickened epoxy. Nobody will know when it's done.
Hi Petter, I've never seen that method done. Issues I can see is that the thickened epoxy is more expensive than Titebond, it required tighter room temperatures, and is much harder than the cedar resulting in difficulty fairing the hull. Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding There will eventually be a bit of fairing to be done anyway. The trapezoid cut will edgeset some and the chine will definitely open up some. By leaving a gap between strips it alleviates the edge setting. Also it's all going to be covered up by glass and paint so asthetically it won't matter. It's not exactly traditional but your not building a bright kayak either. Lou likes to have a running bevel on his strips for his friends Yacht but that is hugely time consuming. I looked for the video from bowdidge marine in Australia where they build center console fishing boats using this method but couldn't find it. I'll keep looking. Anyway what your doing will probably work just fine and honor that beautiful cedar you got. GL.
Victoria When it was on Victoria I'd ask why you didn't redo that but I already know. Doesn't matter. I also 'already' ***know*** this skiff will be as tight a drum when it's finished.
as you were cutting the strips, the "bend" in the plank and you periodically having to stop to move your hands may have created a little uneven cut, is that a concern or are these minor imperfections ignored bc you are fairing the hull before fiberglassing? That's my approach on my canoes, provided the yips aren't too bad.
Hi Fernando, The holes in the strip weaken the plank. As the strip is bent over the forms the weak spot, even if its plugged or filled, will break. If the hole lands slightly on the edge it may make the bend. If so it can then be filled with fairing compound and fiber glassed over. There are more than enough cedar to make the planks from material that otherwise been scraped if Steve had not saved it. New material would have made the process quicker, however, I'm excited with Steve's idea of reusing Victoria material to build the tender. Cheers, Bob
Forgive an ultra-nube question, but could not those holes have been plugged with plugs taken from some of the scrap and then more of the plank utilized?
Hi Jim, The holes in the strip weaken the plank. As the strip is bent over the forms the weak spot, even if its plugged or filled, will break. If the hole lands slightly on the edge it may make the bend. If so it can then be filled with fairing compound and fiber glassed over. There are more than enough cedar to make the planks from material that otherwise been scraped if Steve had not saved it. New material would have made the process quicker, however, I'm excited with Steve's idea of reusing Victoria material to build the tender. Cheers, Bob
I don't get it the parallelogram went around the curve of the boat when he drew it on paper but when you do it in real life you get gaps just like you had square edges.
Hi Robert, Yes, there will be small gaps at the turn of the bilge. The main point of the parallelogram is for the strips to lock together better between the mold stations. As the hull is faired fairing compound will be used to fill the cracks. As John said both sides, inboard and outboard will be covered in 6oz glass cloth and epoxy resin. With cove and bead, in addition to locking the strips together, the boat able to have a bright finish. This is not a concern with the tender as Steve wants the boat to be painted. Thanks for you question and watching! Cheers, Bob
I can't watch... The curved board without a riving knife on the saw seems like a setup for kickback. I suppose experience and skill count here (impressive to see), so that would not be a good plan for me if I were doing it.
I understand your concern. However, these planks are not big box 2 x 4's cut from young trees and full of moisture. The soft 100+ year old White Cedar is extremely dry. The twist is from being on the old boat not from warping. There was, as I expected , absolutely no kick back.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Interesting. OK, I think I see the difference. If the cutting itself causes additional warping (like in moist big box 2x4s), such that the cut end catches the back of the blade, then there's possible kickback. But if the curve is known in advance and doesn't increase due to the cutting, as in your case, you just have to control the piece so that the cut end doesn't catch on the blade. It seems like you have more control in this case, and since you're skilled you can keep the wood clear of the back end of the blade.
It also seems like it's cutting along a curved path, like how you can cut a curve on a circular saw, if it's a gentle enough curve and the blade is not higher than it needs to be. Again, you know in advance how much it curves. If it's gentle enough, the back of the blade may just graze the wood or even help cut it. That may be different than a moist piece of wood getting jammed into the back of the blade as it springs free from internal tension.
Bob, before going too much further, consider making this into a nesting dingy similar to those produced by Port Townsend Watercraft. This would be a better solution for taking less space on the deck of Arabella.
Boat builders are all insane. Insane people are entertaining. Boats are cool. All hail the algorithm.
Facts. And boat builders that take the time to set up cameras, lights, create content then edit and produce videos in addition to building a boat are a special breed of exhausted, insane people.
Thank you for helping the Arabella crew. We admire your design skills and craftsmanship. Wishing you good health.
Talented artist, great teacher and inspirational boat builder.
I like the angled edges on the planks great idea.
It was such a pleasure to meet you at the boat show in Mystic. Looking forward to watching the rest of your build and can't wait for Arabella's launch. Also keep Steve and his family in your prayers as they go through a rough time.
Fantastic work for the boat building but also for the big work surrounding the video making!
Thanks Sylvie!
Loved the jump cuts of the pile of strips growing and growing... nice work as always.
That cedar looks beautiful. Interesting interview with the CLC crew. I have seen the cove and round over strip pattern before but never the trapezoidal pattern. Very interesting idea
It reminds me of the "Robo-bevel" approach that Nick Schade uses.
Trapezoids don't work any better than square edge strips. They are going to get the shock of their lives.
Well I must admit Bob that's one hell'a va lot of table saw cutting to get those strips cut up for this project looking forward to the build looks very interesting thus far, from the bit that I've seen.
I love seeing another Unifence user!!! My favorite fence design, without a doubt.
Another great video Bob. Your bronze casting work is amazing. Please add some more of this content if you can find the time. That Haven 12 1/2 is a dream. I so look forward to see you launching it in the Spring. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks David,
Yes, I will be showing more cast parts in future episodes.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Looking forward to viewing them
Thank you for sharing. Have a great Holiday and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thank you! You too!
So glad to see you back at the tools Bob.
Hope you and your family enjoy the upcoming holidays.
Best wishes for 2023.
Thanks, you too!
An irregular twisted bunch of boards can made useful again. Maybe there hope for me too.
Best wishes to all the viewers and happy holidays. To Bob and your family, many blessings.
Happy New Year!
I just found your RUclips videos. Although I don’t build real boats, I do build model ships and boats as a hobby and with some slight modifications I find your instructions for building real boats very helpful to me to build my model boats. The techniques are very similar. Your explanation and instructions are very clear and easy to understand. I look forward to watching all your videos.
PS. I don’t build real boats because it’s tough to build one in the condominium where I live, but it’s not a problem to build a 10 inch model
Barry from Delray Beach, Florida.
Really interesting work indeed, Bob! 😃
Looking forward to the next steps!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And merry Christmas!
Bob, thanks for making a whole video on cutting strips. For those of us who don't have a pile of 100 year old cedar planks in our yard, new cedar has become VERY expensive. So all that sawdust is costly. I've found I can get the thinnest kerf using a 7 1/4" skilsaw blade in my table saw. It has a thinner kerf than any 10" blade, but it's plenty stiff because it's smaller, and it's big enough to cut up to 1 1/2 " stock. I just run a block plane over the edges for the strips on the bilges. Not a perfect running bevel, but it's quick & works fine once it's glassed inside and out. I like John Harris' idea of parallelogram strips - have to try that.
Thank you for sharing this Bob. I have thought of building a Yankee Skiff from one of John Gardner's books, but building it for light use not the heavy construction used for oystering. This method of strip planking would be perfect for the lighter boat build. Again, thank you for the video and best wishes for a great holiday season.
Thanks Matt, I hope you to have a great holiday season as well. I would love to talk with you about your project. You can schedule a call with me at this link. calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building
I look forward to chatting with you.
Cheers,
Bob
Really great content bob!!
I’m building a strip composite 4.6m fishing boat in Australia- I’m using the bowdidge marine designs strip plank method where you lay 15x30mm paulownia strips on the moulds with a 3mm tile space in between each plank and fill with thickened epoxy - faired and glassed - the shapes you can create with this method are unbelievable!
I’ll be interested to hear how your planking goes. Congratulations
Cheers,
Bob
Great show, Bob! Nice camera work!
Thanks for watching
I assume it is for speed and efficiency but my question to you is why do you not use feather boards to hold the planks into a uniform position as you pass them through the saw?
I love your spacing jig. It is so simple. I have no idea why this never occurred to me over the years. I normally use a pencil mark on the table. Your jig just became my new favourite tool.
I build a lot of strip canoes. I use 3 thin kerf blades ganged together with spacers. That’s as wide as the mandrel on my unisaw will allow. Lets me cut three cedar strips in one pass. Been doing this for years. I don’t bead and cove either. I do like the angle though. I’ll try that on my next batch of strips.
This is a very effective and efficient use of the stock at hand. I also was noticing how many of the lathe strips are quarter sawn. Makes the finished product strong and beautiful. Too bad it will wind up being under glass.
Thanks Don,
Part of my excitement of the project was getting to use these wonderful old timbers. The hull will be painted which is Steve's choice. If however, he did want it to have a bright finish (natural) the glass cloth and resin would become invisible. This is how all modern kayaks and canoes that have bright finishes are built.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks for the information. I keep learning more from you all the time. I am anxious to see the strip installation process.
Peace on Earth
Bob....your table saw skill is so impressive! I personally would have been nervous that the curve of the board would have creeped up on the blade, twisted and spit back at me. Excellent job!! If I had a Herreshoff as beautiful as yours, I would set it up in the middle of my living room! Your watch is VERY cool! What came first; the watch or your design and then it was put on your watch? DD
About cutting the strips: With all the irregularities in the shape of the planks, how did the thicknesses of the strips work out? With the tendency of the plank to wander away from the fence, it would seem like some variation would be inevitable. (With glassing, perhaps that wouldn’t matter.). I’ve been cutting strips for a lamination glue up and I’ve had good results with Jess Em stock guides. I’ve also thought of cutting the strips a bit thicker than I needed and then running them through the planer - but that would create a little more waste. Thanks for the video - looking forward to the planking.
🙉 💙
They are SO tiny!
Hey Bob! I’ve been following you and Arabella since the beginning. Just a small geometry note on the thickness of the strips. If I followed correctly and you measured 3/8” across the *angled face* of the strip and if you cut it at 15 degrees the *thickness* directly across (90 degrees to the long face) is actually 3/8” x cos(15) which is closer to 23/64”… or about 1/64” thinner than 3/8. It’s a small amount but it’s about 3.5% thinner than I think you intended. Just something I noticed! It’s probably fine.
Hi Nathan,
I am cutting the strips at 3/8" width. I show that measurement at 14:16. As you said 1/64 is not a concern, as when the hull is faired I most likely will sand of more than .4 mm (1/64") off. I often quote Greg Rössel to my Boat Building Bootcamp builders.(www.boatbuildingbootcamp.com/)
" And don't look for perfection. We're not building a Steinway piano. The goal is just good old-fashioned clean workmanship - a job that fits well and looks good. 'Nuf said"
From "Building Small Boats" by Greg Rössel (page 2 introduction)
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Sorry Bob, acicdently gave you a thumbs down when I meant to do the opposite. I did give you a thumbs up after that. Really enjoyed the video. I built a Jem Watercraft Sabalo out of ply some time ago, but would like to try a strip planked boat too. I will be watching with interest.
👍
So, when I'm ripping a board into strips of uniform width, even something like 3/8", I set my fence that distance away from the blade and rip them all without having to reset the fence, or indeed turn the saw off. However, mine is a left-tilt saw, so there's less risk of the workpiece getting trapped between the blade and fence and kicking back. I don't think I'm being dangerously foolhardy, but I've been wrong before.
Why did you choose to cut your strips against the grain, as opposed to with the grain as the planks were originally machined? Beautiful material - hard to source today.
More effect. Majority of the strips end up quarter sawn which make to strip stronger.
Is it really ok to have vertical grain in the thickness direction of the strips?
Yes, That is ideal. Referred to as quarter saw.
Curious. Doesn't the orientation of the wood grain in the planking not affect the strength?
Yes, minimally in a strip this narrow. Grain across the thickness (quarter sawn) is ideal. Generally cedar strips are the hulls substrate. The real strength comes from the fiberglass in the inside and out side of the hull.
Since the dinghy is gonna be glassed and painted you could use 1/8 tile spacers to make gaps between the strips and fill with thickened epoxy. Nobody will know when it's done.
Hi Petter, I've never seen that method done. Issues I can see is that the thickened epoxy is more expensive than Titebond, it required tighter room temperatures, and is much harder than the cedar resulting in difficulty fairing the hull.
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding There will eventually be a bit of fairing to be done anyway. The trapezoid cut will edgeset some and the chine will definitely open up some. By leaving a gap between strips it alleviates the edge setting. Also it's all going to be covered up by glass and paint so asthetically it won't matter. It's not exactly traditional but your not building a bright kayak either. Lou likes to have a running bevel on his strips for his friends Yacht but that is hugely time consuming. I looked for the video from bowdidge marine in Australia where they build center console fishing boats using this method but couldn't find it. I'll keep looking. Anyway what your doing will probably work just fine and honor that beautiful cedar you got. GL.
Victoria
When it was on Victoria
I'd ask why you didn't redo that but I already know.
Doesn't matter. I also 'already' ***know*** this skiff will be as tight a drum when it's finished.
as you were cutting the strips, the "bend" in the plank and you periodically having to stop to move your hands may have created a little uneven cut, is that a concern or are these minor imperfections ignored bc you are fairing the hull before fiberglassing? That's my approach on my canoes, provided the yips aren't too bad.
Hi Pete,
You are absolutely correct! All of the minor imperfections will be faired out and glassed over.
Cheers,
Bob
HI Bob. I just couldn't understand why you didn't epoxy plug those holes in the planks.
Hi Fernando,
The holes in the strip weaken the plank. As the strip is bent over the forms the weak spot, even if its plugged or filled, will break. If the hole lands slightly on the edge it may make the bend. If so it can then be filled with fairing compound and fiber glassed over. There are more than enough cedar to make the planks from material that otherwise been scraped if Steve had not saved it. New material would have made the process quicker, however, I'm excited with Steve's idea of reusing Victoria material to build the tender.
Cheers,
Bob
why not cut the strips a bit wide to allow for fairing loss?
Forgive an ultra-nube question, but could not those holes have been plugged with plugs taken from some of the scrap and then more of the plank utilized?
Yes.
Hi Jim,
The holes in the strip weaken the plank. As the strip is bent over the forms the weak spot, even if its plugged or filled, will break. If the hole lands slightly on the edge it may make the bend. If so it can then be filled with fairing compound and fiber glassed over. There are more than enough cedar to make the planks from material that otherwise been scraped if Steve had not saved it. New material would have made the process quicker, however, I'm excited with Steve's idea of reusing Victoria material to build the tender.
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks for the informative reply. Yes, it's altogether fitting on many levels that you are reusing parts from Victoria.
Do u know someone that can build quality furniture for a 37 feet sailboat in cherry or maple
Depends on where you are located.
Ontario but can bring the boat to where the shop is
I don't get it the parallelogram went around the curve of the boat when he drew it on paper but when you do it in real life you get gaps just like you had square edges.
Hi Robert,
Yes, there will be small gaps at the turn of the bilge. The main point of the parallelogram is for the strips to lock together better between the mold stations. As the hull is faired fairing compound will be used to fill the cracks. As John said both sides, inboard and outboard will be covered in 6oz glass cloth and epoxy resin.
With cove and bead, in addition to locking the strips together, the boat able to have a bright finish. This is not a concern with the tender as Steve wants the boat to be painted.
Thanks for you question and watching!
Cheers,
Bob
"Gender studies?" OMG!
I can't watch... The curved board without a riving knife on the saw seems like a setup for kickback. I suppose experience and skill count here (impressive to see), so that would not be a good plan for me if I were doing it.
I understand your concern. However, these planks are not big box 2 x 4's cut from young trees and full of moisture. The soft 100+ year old White Cedar is extremely dry. The twist is from being on the old boat not from warping. There was, as I expected , absolutely no kick back.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Interesting. OK, I think I see the difference. If the cutting itself causes additional warping (like in moist big box 2x4s), such that the cut end catches the back of the blade, then there's possible kickback. But if the curve is known in advance and doesn't increase due to the cutting, as in your case, you just have to control the piece so that the cut end doesn't catch on the blade. It seems like you have more control in this case, and since you're skilled you can keep the wood clear of the back end of the blade.
It also seems like it's cutting along a curved path, like how you can cut a curve on a circular saw, if it's a gentle enough curve and the blade is not higher than it needs to be. Again, you know in advance how much it curves. If it's gentle enough, the back of the blade may just graze the wood or even help cut it. That may be different than a moist piece of wood getting jammed into the back of the blade as it springs free from internal tension.
Bob, before going too much further, consider making this into a nesting dingy similar to those produced by Port Townsend Watercraft. This would be a better solution for taking less space on the deck of Arabella.