Clutch Install Guide | FRS BRZ 86
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- Parts:
XClutch Sprung Organic Clutch Kit: www.ftspeed.com/part/xksu2459...
Verus Engineering Clutch Fork: www.ftspeed.com/part/a0092a-v...
Verus Engineering Pivot: www.ftspeed.com/part/a0068a-v...
Motul Gear 300: www.ftspeed.com/part/105777-m...
Transmission Plug Gaskets: SU00303626
Transmission Bellhousing Bolts , Nuts & Studs:
SU003-02153 x2
SU003-02144 x4
SU003-02151 x2
SU003-02145 x2
Torque Specs:
-Clutch release cylinder - 2 bolts (27 ft/lbs)
-Ground for this ^ - 1 bolt (10ft/lbs)
-Wire harness clamp bracket - 1 bolt (7 ft/lbs)
-Tranny mount - 4 outside bolts (48 ft/lbs)
-Tranny mount - 2 inside bolts w/washers (30 ft/lbs)
-FP mount - 2 bolts (17 ft/lbs)
-Driveshaft to diff - (57 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)
-Driveshaft centre support - (35 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)
-Tranny fill and drain plugs - 2 plugs - 27 ft/lb
-FP to OP - 2 nuts (32 ft/lb)
-FP to centre pipe - (13 ft/lbs)
-Bellhousing to motor, and starter to motor - 6 bolts (37 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)
-Bellhousing nuts on 2 studs (37 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)
-Flywheel bolts (tighten in star pattern to 35ft/lb then tighten in star pattern to 63 ft/lb) (use blue loctite)
-Pressure plate (14 ft/lbs in star pattern)
Grease:
-sparingly under flywheel bolt heads
-pivot point in clutch fork and the pivot point itself
-2 spots on clutch fork where the TOB touches and a tiny bit on the TOB as well (same two spots where the clips sit)
-sparingly on the splines and retainer shaft/cover. Not too much, so it doesn't sling onto your clutch disk and ruin it.
-sparingly inside flywheel bearing
-sparingly in the TOB
Tips:
-Use 2 pry bars to get the tranny cracked open. You might need to go at it from up top. This may take a while, so be patient with it
-Tilt the motor up a bit from the front (oil pan with a piece of wood is fine). This will help line up the studs with the bellhousing so the tranny doesn't get stuck on the studs
-Completely remove the tranny mount so you can wiggle the tranny up and down more to loosen it from the motor
-A tranny jack will be your best friend. If you don't have one, a second, large jack and wood will work but its sketchy
-Buy beer and have a friend help you out when pulling the tranny and reinstalling
-Clean flywheel with brake cleaner. New or machined.
-After you grease the splines, you can take your clutch disk and run it through the splines to lubricate it. Then wipe off the excess grease from the outsides of the clutch center
Find your FRS, BRZ, 86 and A90 Supra parts here:
Website - www.ftspeed.com/?...
Instagram - / _ftspeed
Facebook - / ft86speedfactory 
Авто/Мото
Worthy to note, at 11:35 you can see that wheel with a bunch of fingers on it that sits behind the flywheel. That's the reluctor wheel that tells the crank position sensor what position the crank is in. If that falls off like mine did when I took off the flywheel, make sure you put it back on with the fingers facing FORWARD toward the crank position sensor. It can absolutely be put on backwards. Don't ask me how I know, I don't want to talk about it.
I just put my whole new clutch in and I was trying to get my transmission in and I was having trouble so I came to watch more vids and seen that behind he the flywheel no other vid showed that and I need to take the new clutch off just to put that back on 😭
@@comptoncummings9584hahaha sorry to hear that brother. How did you go with the install overall? Gonna do it on mine this weekend
Also ANOTHER heads up on the crank position sensor plate: there’s a small hole on it that has to line up with a very small peg on the plate behind it (can’t remember what it’s called). Be sure to line those up or your car wont start. Don’t ask me how I know.
how did you even bolt it on without lining them up?@@jakethechosen1
@damonpang1185 it just sits on the peg that it lines up with and a little bit of friction
my original throw out bearing lasted 86k miles and finally decided to burst out, kudos to the little spinor fidget lasting that long. The early symptom was minor "squeaky noise" starting a few winters ago while warming up the car. The noise would go away when clutch is engaged, or car is warmed up. Shifting was not the smoothest but was okay. 2 years fast forward the squaky noise became permanent even warm weather, and occassionally smelled burn metal. Then the day of burst it constantly made squeaky noise clutch in, clutch out. Then bam, clutch became super clunky and light. Thank god I had a mechanic lined up and parts already bought 3 years ago. 2 days in the shop and after $800 labor, brand new clutch/flywheel/gear oil. Gear shift is super smooth and clutch is unusually light, but it works better than ever! Don't wait for the dooms day and instead be proactive and change clutch parts for better driving experience!
I actually enjoy that you guys for the most part showed you actually putting in and taking out the parts. Videos as professional as yours edit out the little finger struggles and difficulties but I think it’s important to keep that there, I find it reassuring that there are difficulties along the way; as in the case with that bell housing bolt, I would’ve loved to see the process of retapping that threading but I know this is a clutch replacement video not a how to tap a bolt hole.
10/10 guide thank you
I actually had the same bolt do the same thing! Thanks for mentioning that you rethreaded it.
Literally did this yesterday. Why did youtube recommend me this video AFTER I did it?!?!?
Did you have to replace your clutch fork aswell?
介紹得很詳細！畫質也很好很清楚，非常的感謝，這對我幫助很大
Perfect timing. I've got the same clutch going in this season. Thanks for all you do!
Happy to help!
Not too long a video. Easy to follow with torque specs included. How can you NOT like this video. 👍
Another great video. Thanks very much. Super detailed, straight forward, and you make it seem like a much less intimidating job. Well done!
Happy to help!
This video has helped me out so much, thank you for this video! I was able to remove my transmission within 4-5 hours by myself because of this video! I really appreciate you guys, keep up the good work!
I just did my clutch install on my car using this video ALONE. Great video. I will say this save yourself the trouble and take the bottom two alignment studs for the bell housing, it will make your life way easier especially if you’re doing it on the ground with jack stands and a couple friends.
what do you mean by take the bottom two alignment studs for the bell housing? take them out first?
@@STUNNAFRS after you remove the transmission. When you remove the studs if you’re reinstalling the transmission it’s a little difficult to get everything to line up with the weight on said studs. Taking them out makes aligning the input shaft way easier. After all the bolts are on for the bell housing I just put the studs back in with a lil lock tight.
@@joshmoore911you are able to put the studs back in after the trans is mounted?
Does it not have a bolt head on the other side of it?
yea i just finished mine with jack stands in the garage for the first time with just the video, just did it by myself bc no friends were around and it was a headache for sure lmao
A couple tricks in this video I haven’t seen before, definitely would’ve been helpful when I changed my clutch haha
For next time! haha
I think the most impressive thing that no one mentions is that in most of these videos you're doing all this work by yourself. Sure a lift and having all the tools help a lot but it's still impressive.
Also, not to be too technical but you list all the torques as ft/lb (ft per pouund) instead of ft*lbs (ft pounds)
You get the idea haha
Great video man. Great information. The information i got is to get a professional to do it ✊
This would have saved me like $2k doing it myself. Thanks!
Still gonna pay someone to do it =)))) It looks easy because they have lift and specialized tools.
Thank you for the Video! Makes the Step much more Easier..
Pro tip, remove all bell housing bolts from under the car. Its much easier than in the video. Same goes with the starter nut.
Getting that transmission mated back up has been IMPOSSIBLE lol. Been fighting it for 2 hours
Ftspeed you should make a video on how to fix limp mode with tuned and non tuned cars
Just came back to this video. I just noticed my slave cylinder is shot. Knowing how squeaky the stock setup is, wondering if there's a better alternative. I don't want to buy yet another $50-80+ part that may be iffy again.
Could you make a video using only jackstands working on a dirt floor no fancy hydraulic car lifts
Would you recommend doing this using jack stands? Enough clearance for the tranny to slide out the car?
Great video btw, impressive you’re doing this by yourself, bravo!
great video. thank you
Nice job
Mine is starting to rattle and struggle in first gear. Thank you
thanks man!
Manufactures recommend Using the star pattern 1⁄2 turn it a time..... For the pressure plate...
A lot of videos show people removing the interior part of the shift lever. Is that not necessary?
What kind of grease was used?
You're probably here because your pilot bearing failed before the clutch did.
Also take note of your starter ground cables... That took me like 2 hrs before I realized we put it at the wrong location.
Where did you put it?
@@KevinVo the starter has 2 mounting bolts I believe. We put it on the opposite one. Car wouldn't start until we flipped it.
Question did you change the pilot bearing and did you add grease in the pilot bearing or did you add some after taking the old one out put some grease in there and then put the new pilot bearing ?
The Xclutch kit came with a new pilot bearing that I pressed into the flywheel and applied a small amount of grease to the inside.
Now that the clutch has been installed, what are your thoughts/impressions of it compared to stock clutch?
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to drive the car yet due to the winter weather here in the midwest, but once it warms up a bit I'll make a review video for it. I will say that the clutch pedal feels great just pressing on it. It's not any stiffer than the stock clutch so it's nice not to have to worry about a super stiff pedal.
@@KevinVo does it have any noticable chatter while idling?
Is it a lightweight flywheel?
We’re do u grease ?
Hello 86/brz/FRS community! I’m looking to get a new clutch kit for my 2013 Scion FR-S. My release bearing and clutch are making really weird noises and I’m in the market to release the whole system. The XClutch Sprung Ceramic Stage 2 Clutch Kit is one that I have my eyes on as well as a Kevlar sprung stage 2 from Action Clutch. Both very similar in price. I really would love some advice on which one someone would recommend! I’m really leaning towards the XClutch Sprung Ceramic Stage 2 Clutch Kit because it includes a release bearing. My car has 95K miles on it btw. Any tips or advice someone could give me?
Depends on your application. FTSpeed already made a great video about this ruclips.net/video/vz1bu2nsoBA/видео.html
The verus clutch forks are out of stock on the website. Will you guys be getting more???
Thanks for the upload...this comes in handy as I was just about to do the clutch on my BRZ!!!
Yes, we will be getting more Verus Clutch Forks in.
Do you guys intend to support mods for the 2022 models? You guys are the source for gen1, but it feels like you are behind on the gen 2.
Yes, we will provide support for the 2022 models just as we are with the gen1. We've got a car on the way, and it's in our hands you know we're going to cover every aspect of it!
@@KevinVo great I’m looking forward to that. I traded my 2018 tS (full of mods from you guys) for a 2022 BRZ so I’d love to continue to use you guys as THE SOURCE for mods
@@Aegizreal to be fair the whole market needs time to make things for gen2. I would assume with the performance boost buying gen1 components would be a waste.
Does this work the same for an automatic FR-S? Idk what an automatic looks like compared to Manual
No, the automatic transmission would be completely different.
Do we need to grease inside the pilot wheel bearing ?
By the fly wheel
@@Mario-hd5se Yes, just a little bit.
What's the proper procedure for breaking in the new clutch?
Driving
It varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but usually it's just normal driving for about 500-1000 miles without beating on it.
You didn’t have to take apart the shifter inside?
No I guess they didn’t, I guess since they unhooked the shifter carriage at 8:30 in the video you don’t need to take apart the whole interior, that’s a nice trick
Nope, everything can be done underneath the car to release the shifter as shown.
@@KevinVo any advice on how to get the rubber sleeve off so we can access the pin, feels like we're going to rip it
@@TheBoogBus better off cutting a slit in the rubber so it can move above the pin cuz it’s a bitch
@@TheBoogBusi know this is late and probably figured it out, but you can finesse this off using a flat head screwdriver
Could you guys please do this kind of tutorial for the wrx
Nah fool this is a page/community dedicated exclusively to the
GT86/BRZ/FRS 😑
@@thedisappointed2530 they have subispeed channel too
I'll see what I can do.