We take a deep dive into everything you need to know about installing a Clutch and Flywheel on your Nissan 350Z, including tips and how to avoid issues.
And the absolute winner for best clutch assembly replacement tutorial vid IZZZZ..... Definitely will be easier the next time after following this step by step. I sincerely thank you sir, this added 11 pages to my journel known as "The book of Zoe". So in mad max future, 350zs can survive once this book is found 🤣
Compiled Steps, tools and materials I've made (with buying Z1 clutch kits): Steps: 2:00 - Disconnect Battery 2:30 - Disconnect Shifter, boot, bolts 5:50 - Remove Exhaust Y. ( Long length 14 MM due to studs in the way ) NOTE: if it's rusted / seized, you may need to follow these steps a. Try PB Blaster first, allow it to sit for a couple minutes, wait, and repeat a couple times. Try to remove it if you can without stripping the nuts. b. If it's so tight you can't break it with a breaker bar you may need to torch it and try again. Try to remove it while it is heated. c. If heating alone doesn't work, try heating and then shock it with cold water while it was hot. Try to remove it again. d. If you can't get the nuts off due to them being stripped, buy a nut extraction set (14mm / 13mm) and use an impact wrench. e. If literally nothing works to remove it, buy a carbide Dremel blade with an oscillating Dremel and cut off the entire stud, buy a ball joint separator kit with an impact wrench to press out the cut studs. 6:48 - Remove Drive Shaft ( 17 MM ), keep it in gear to remove the bolts. You will need to take it out of gear to spin it and get the bolts on the opposite site. 8:18 - Remove Shifter rubber boot, and disconnect shifter link ( 12 MM ) 9:23 - Remove Electrical Items, Put bolts back in ( 10 MM , 15 MM? in video, but I think they are actually 14 MM ) 13:40 - Remove Slave Cylinder ( 14 MM ) NOT IN VIDEO: Drain Transmission ( 10 MM Hex Bit, at the bottom of the transmission near the back, there is a vent tube on the top so no need to open where you input the oil ) 14:17 - Unbolt Transmission to Engine ( 14 MM, 17 MM, 10 MM [drain plate / inspection plate at bottom] ) 17:19 - Unbolt guard (behind transmission transmission support) ( 10 MM / 8 MM ?) 17:30 - Add transmission jack (strap recommended), try to have the jack as level as possible with how it's currently housed, it will make it easier to reinstall it back in. 17:50 - Remove transmission rear support ( 14 MM ) 19:00 - Move transmission back slightly to get behind support brace, then drop it down and roll it away 20:15 - Remove Pressure plate, friction plate, and flywheel ( 14 MM? or 12 MM?, T55 Torx Bit) 24:10 - Remove Pilot Bushing, install new pilot bushing. The pilot bearing should be about flush with the hub, once it's fully seated. 25:27 - (transmission work) Remove Throw out bearing and fork. 27:24 - Remove throw out bearing with press or hammer, then install new one with press or bench vise. NOTE: Bench vise works very well (I used a 4 inch one), you can use the bench vise as a support for hamming out the bearing as well, just put a cloth between the bench vise and press it into place, it is very easy spent about 40$ for the bench vise from Harbor freight. 28:16 - Reinstall throw-out and fork, throw some grease at the ball, where the fork pushes the throw out bearing, and on the driveline. 28:55 - Install new Flywheel, make sure the position lines up properly (small hole in the flywheel for the sensor), use proper torquing as recommended in a cross pattern (68 FT/LB). ( T55 Torx Bit , Loctite 271) 31:14 - Install friction disk (protruding side should face away from flywheel), make sure the alignment tool is COMPLETELY inside the pilot hole and no threads are visible protruding from the friction disk. Do not remove alignment tool until pressure plate is fully torqued. 32:53 - Install Pressure Plate, 2 stages of torquing them down in a cross-pattern ( Step 1: 14 lb/ft, Step 2: 32 lb/ft) 35:23 - Reinstall Transmission and support, try to have the transmission relatively flat so that it easily fits into the flywheel. It will take some wiggling to get the threads to line up as well as making sure the driveline gets into the pilot bushing. Put the transmission into 5th / 6th gear (put link to the left side of the car and push forward to get it into 5th), this will prevent the threads from spinning when wiggling it into place. Additionally, you can use a breaker bar on the front of the engine where the engine moves the timing belt to get the friction plate threads to wiggle. 37:35 - Reinstall Wiring components. 38:17 - Reinstall Slave Cylinder NOT IN VIDEO: Add Transmission Fluid, should take about 3.3 quarts, if your car is level the input plug (on right side of transmission, with 10 MM hex bolt) should be the cut off point of fluid to add, so use a siphon to put the transmission fluid until it appears full / leaks out, then it should be completely full. If your car is not level, keep in consideration that if your front if higher you will put less oil than is necessary and if your rear is higher you will put in more than necessary. 38:55 - Reinstall Shifter link, lower dust boot, and shifter plate. don't install regular shifter boot yet ( 12 MM ) 41:10 - Reinstall Drive shaft ( 17 MM ) / Reinstall Exhaust ( 14 MM ) 41:39 - Validate shifter plate position 42:06 - Reinstall internal shifter parts 44:00 - Connect Battery, validate clutch pedal engagement position Tools: 1. Breaker Bar (potentially) 2. Bench Vise (Cheap option for pressing bushing for throw out bearing) 3. Pilot Bushing Remover (pilot bearing) 4. T55 Torx Bit 5. Torque Wrench 6. Wrench set 7. Transmission Jack (low profile on jack stands, high for car lift) 8. If no car lift: a. Car Jack (18-20+ inch max height, I was able to do the work on about 18 inches, just can't fully move out the transmission from under the vehicle.) b. 4 Car stands 6 ton recommended (18-20+inch max height) 9. (IF lots of trouble with rusted or seized bolts): propane torch, impact wrench, nut extractor set, carbide blade / oscillating Dremel, ball joint separator kit Consumable Materials: 1. Grease, at least Grade 2. 2. Brake cleaner 3. Towels / Microfiber towels (pressure plate has a rough surface and will grab onto the fibers from a microfiber towel) 4. Transmission Fluid GL-4 (70W85 is stock, but 70W90 has also been used frequently) 5. red Loctite 271 (not a lot just a bead line on threads for flywheel install)
@@Z1Motorsports23 three days going and I still am not finished... First my exhaust bolts were so rusty I tried everything and eventually had to just cut off most of them. Now I'm stuck and can't get the transmission to go back in after installing everything. Think it's stuck on the driveline splines not being able to fit into the friction disk for some reason, working under jacks so it's a nightmare 😢
@@Z1Motorsports23 Think when I was trying to install the transmission at first it must of moved the friction disc and got out of alignment. Had to re-align it all again and then took about another hour or so after that of tinkering with and it got in.. Going to update the comment with some more info based on what I ran into.
Finally a good video on clutch service for the 350z !! Great video . Just one question in Dave’s case when you were adjusting the master did you turn the rod counter clockwise to make the engagement higher ?
Took mine to a shop to replace the clutch. Mind you i drove it there with no issues. They state that the car cranks but doesn't start after the replacement. I told them about the dowl behind the flywheel and they said they put it back on the same way. I hate shops.
i’m not quite sure how yall got the pilot bushing to go in with no problems but mines got nicked all over the place and the trans won’t go through 😭 gonna try to get the tool and do it again
Mine chatters at 2k rpm pretty loud but in 5th gear at 2k it’s so loud, I have a performance street clutch with a un-sprung full face disc + lightweight flywheel. My mechanic says it’s chatter and it does sound like chatter, just very loud and worrying just wanted to get some peoples opinion I have a DE non rev up with a cd009 in a g35 coupe
Sounds like I'm bout to have to do this job on my G35 rev up 😢got a horrible power steering pump type noise coming from the clutch even when depressed...not even sure it's worth it being at 280k miles now
Why are the torque specs higher on this video higher than z1’s other 350z clutch install video? Other video says 3ftp less for flywheel & pressure plate, I am just curious
It's very similar. The biggest difference will be your slave cylinder as it is located on the inside of the transmission and is one single piece with the throwout bearing.
Question for my fellow Z guys. On My 03 Mt 350z, my throttle body only work when I'm in gear. If I have my shifter in neutral my pedal will not operate my throttle plate. Is this normal or what?
@@Roze_z33 man I appreciate the help. After this I got the car going and it runs flawlessly. Idk why it does that with thy throttle body but it doesn't do it with the engine running.
Anybody know what my problem can be if my g35 6mt won’t go into gear when my car is on ?? (Goes in gear when off tho) clutch is good. Happened out of no where after I kick clutched to drift a corner ?
I know this is late, but it could most likely be your Clutch Master Cylinder or Clutch Slave Cylinder. I would recommend changing both of them at the same time. Also, make sure to properly bleed your clutch fluid.
For anyone wondering, I had the same issue. 1. Check to make sure the fork is getting about 1/2 to 5/8" movement from the slave cylinder on clutch compression. If it doesn't move that much you may need to replace master / slave cylinder and properly bleed the clutch line. 2. If that was not the issue and did not solve it, it's likely something in the bell housing broke a. Pressure plate tooth came off b. Piece of friction disk came off (I had a spring break off on my disk that was stuck between the pressure plate and friction disk causing it to stay engaged. c. Issue with the fork / throw out bearing Some later 350zs have a slave cylinder inside the bell housing, so I'd start on the master cylinder and bleeding those lines first.
And the absolute winner for best clutch assembly replacement tutorial vid IZZZZ..... Definitely will be easier the next time after following this step by step. I sincerely thank you sir, this added 11 pages to my journel known as "The book of Zoe". So in mad max future, 350zs can survive once this book is found 🤣
Compiled Steps, tools and materials I've made (with buying Z1 clutch kits):
Steps:
2:00 - Disconnect Battery
2:30 - Disconnect Shifter, boot, bolts
5:50 - Remove Exhaust Y. ( Long length 14 MM due to studs in the way )
NOTE: if it's rusted / seized, you may need to follow these steps
a. Try PB Blaster first, allow it to sit for a couple minutes, wait, and repeat a couple times. Try to remove it if you can without stripping the nuts.
b. If it's so tight you can't break it with a breaker bar you may need to torch it and try again. Try to remove it while it is heated.
c. If heating alone doesn't work, try heating and then shock it with cold water while it was hot. Try to remove it again.
d. If you can't get the nuts off due to them being stripped, buy a nut extraction set (14mm / 13mm) and use an impact wrench.
e. If literally nothing works to remove it, buy a carbide Dremel blade with an oscillating Dremel and cut off the entire stud, buy a ball joint separator kit with an impact wrench to press out the cut studs.
6:48 - Remove Drive Shaft ( 17 MM ), keep it in gear to remove the bolts. You will need to take it out of gear to spin it and get the bolts on the opposite site.
8:18 - Remove Shifter rubber boot, and disconnect shifter link ( 12 MM )
9:23 - Remove Electrical Items, Put bolts back in ( 10 MM , 15 MM? in video, but I think they are actually 14 MM )
13:40 - Remove Slave Cylinder ( 14 MM )
NOT IN VIDEO: Drain Transmission ( 10 MM Hex Bit, at the bottom of the transmission near the back, there is a vent tube on the top so no need to open where you input the oil )
14:17 - Unbolt Transmission to Engine ( 14 MM, 17 MM, 10 MM [drain plate / inspection plate at bottom] )
17:19 - Unbolt guard (behind transmission transmission support) ( 10 MM / 8 MM ?)
17:30 - Add transmission jack (strap recommended), try to have the jack as level as possible with how it's currently housed, it will make it easier to reinstall it back in.
17:50 - Remove transmission rear support ( 14 MM )
19:00 - Move transmission back slightly to get behind support brace, then drop it down and roll it away
20:15 - Remove Pressure plate, friction plate, and flywheel ( 14 MM? or 12 MM?, T55 Torx Bit)
24:10 - Remove Pilot Bushing, install new pilot bushing. The pilot bearing should be about flush with the hub, once it's fully seated.
25:27 - (transmission work) Remove Throw out bearing and fork.
27:24 - Remove throw out bearing with press or hammer, then install new one with press or bench vise.
NOTE: Bench vise works very well (I used a 4 inch one), you can use the bench vise as a support for hamming out the bearing as well, just put a cloth between the bench vise and press it into place, it is very easy spent about 40$ for the bench vise from Harbor freight.
28:16 - Reinstall throw-out and fork, throw some grease at the ball, where the fork pushes the throw out bearing, and on the driveline.
28:55 - Install new Flywheel, make sure the position lines up properly (small hole in the flywheel for the sensor), use proper torquing as recommended in a cross pattern (68 FT/LB). ( T55 Torx Bit , Loctite 271)
31:14 - Install friction disk (protruding side should face away from flywheel), make sure the alignment tool is COMPLETELY inside the pilot hole and no threads are visible protruding from the friction disk. Do not remove alignment tool until pressure plate is fully torqued.
32:53 - Install Pressure Plate, 2 stages of torquing them down in a cross-pattern ( Step 1: 14 lb/ft, Step 2: 32 lb/ft)
35:23 - Reinstall Transmission and support, try to have the transmission relatively flat so that it easily fits into the flywheel. It will take some wiggling to get the threads to line up as well as making sure the driveline gets into the pilot bushing. Put the transmission into 5th / 6th gear (put link to the left side of the car and push forward to get it into 5th), this will prevent the threads from spinning when wiggling it into place. Additionally, you can use a breaker bar on the front of the engine where the engine moves the timing belt to get the friction plate threads to wiggle.
37:35 - Reinstall Wiring components.
38:17 - Reinstall Slave Cylinder
NOT IN VIDEO: Add Transmission Fluid, should take about 3.3 quarts, if your car is level the input plug (on right side of transmission, with 10 MM hex bolt) should be the cut off point of fluid to add, so use a siphon to put the transmission fluid until it appears full / leaks out, then it should be completely full. If your car is not level, keep in consideration that if your front if higher you will put less oil than is necessary and if your rear is higher you will put in more than necessary.
38:55 - Reinstall Shifter link, lower dust boot, and shifter plate. don't install regular shifter boot yet ( 12 MM )
41:10 - Reinstall Drive shaft ( 17 MM ) / Reinstall Exhaust ( 14 MM )
41:39 - Validate shifter plate position
42:06 - Reinstall internal shifter parts
44:00 - Connect Battery, validate clutch pedal engagement position
Tools:
1. Breaker Bar (potentially)
2. Bench Vise (Cheap option for pressing bushing for throw out bearing)
3. Pilot Bushing Remover (pilot bearing)
4. T55 Torx Bit
5. Torque Wrench
6. Wrench set
7. Transmission Jack (low profile on jack stands, high for car lift)
8. If no car lift:
a. Car Jack (18-20+ inch max height, I was able to do the work on about 18 inches, just can't fully move out the transmission from under the vehicle.)
b. 4 Car stands 6 ton recommended (18-20+inch max height)
9. (IF lots of trouble with rusted or seized bolts): propane torch, impact wrench, nut extractor set, carbide blade / oscillating Dremel, ball joint separator kit
Consumable Materials:
1. Grease, at least Grade 2.
2. Brake cleaner
3. Towels / Microfiber towels (pressure plate has a rough surface and will grab onto the fibers from a microfiber towel)
4. Transmission Fluid GL-4 (70W85 is stock, but 70W90 has also been used frequently)
5. red Loctite 271 (not a lot just a bead line on threads for flywheel install)
Not all heroes wear capes
@@Z1Motorsports23 three days going and I still am not finished...
First my exhaust bolts were so rusty I tried everything and eventually had to just cut off most of them.
Now I'm stuck and can't get the transmission to go back in after installing everything. Think it's stuck on the driveline splines not being able to fit into the friction disk for some reason, working under jacks so it's a nightmare 😢
@@Z1Motorsports23 Think when I was trying to install the transmission at first it must of moved the friction disc and got out of alignment. Had to re-align it all again and then took about another hour or so after that of tinkering with and it got in.. Going to update the comment with some more info based on what I ran into.
@@Z1Motorsports23 I've updated the info and added timestamps if you want to add them to the video.
You are heaven sent
The bushing situation is top tier " thats too much I have a friend that can do it for 1/16th cost"
Great tutorial, the best I've seen. Very detailed, with no rush, precise and nicely explained. Greets from Poland.
It would awesome to see a video like this for the 120k service on the Z32!!
Finally a good video on clutch service for the 350z !! Great video . Just one question in Dave’s case when you were adjusting the master did you turn the rod counter clockwise to make the engagement higher ?
Amazing step by step video!!! Very informative, helpful, and entertaining to watch!
Took mine to a shop to replace the clutch. Mind you i drove it there with no issues. They state that the car cranks but doesn't start after the replacement.
I told them about the dowl behind the flywheel and they said they put it back on the same way. I hate shops.
Sounds like a crank position sensor
Great video! I'd like to see timing chain and timing chain guides installation video!
Engine mount replacement video would be cool
Go ahead and replace pressure plate bolts. One of mine broke while torquing to spec
Awesome video🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Really good work and explanation.
Me on Jack Stands tryna put it all back together now watching this video 36:05
Any idea why my clutch started to slip after install? Any particular part of the install that could have gone wrong?
Dave's car is put together like mine. "torque wrench?! It's MINE tho! How am i gonna come back on myself? You sound dumb"
i’m not quite sure how yall got the pilot bushing to go in with no problems but mines got nicked all over the place and the trans won’t go through 😭 gonna try to get the tool and do it again
Dock to the space station 😂 🤣👍🏽
Brutal.
Mine chatters at 2k rpm pretty loud but in 5th gear at 2k it’s so loud, I have a performance street clutch with a un-sprung full face disc + lightweight flywheel. My mechanic says it’s chatter and it does sound like chatter, just very loud and worrying just wanted to get some peoples opinion
I have a DE non rev up with a cd009 in a g35 coupe
yes this same lightweight disk. I was told it will need some wearing in and not to hit it for 1k miles. I m hoping this kinda subsides?
Sounds like I'm bout to have to do this job on my G35 rev up 😢got a horrible power steering pump type noise coming from the clutch even when depressed...not even sure it's worth it being at 280k miles now
So currently im doing my clutch change, why exactly does dave not have a damper (the black box thingy near the neutral switch) ?
Why are the torque specs higher on this video higher than z1’s other 350z clutch install video? Other video says 3ftp less for flywheel & pressure plate, I am just curious
Nvm I’m seeing there are parameters for spec and you guys may have just stayed in the middle so both work fine
How much different is this compared to a 370z? gota do mine soon
It's very similar. The biggest difference will be your slave cylinder as it is located on the inside of the transmission and is one single piece with the throwout bearing.
how much overlap is ther here with the 370z? I know that the block from the vq35 to the 37 should be the same
What is the labor hours for this job?
Question for my fellow Z guys. On My 03 Mt 350z, my throttle body only work when I'm in gear. If I have my shifter in neutral my pedal will not operate my throttle plate. Is this normal or what?
I would try and do a throttle body relearn on the ECU first before anything, there are videos you can look up on RUclips to help you out.
@@Roze_z33 man I appreciate the help. After this I got the car going and it runs flawlessly. Idk why it does that with thy throttle body but it doesn't do it with the engine running.
Anybody know what my problem can be if my g35 6mt won’t go into gear when my car is on ?? (Goes in gear when off tho) clutch is good. Happened out of no where after I kick clutched to drift a corner ?
Did you ever get it figured out? I’m having the same issue
I know this is late, but it could most likely be your Clutch Master Cylinder or Clutch Slave Cylinder. I would recommend changing both of them at the same time. Also, make sure to properly bleed your clutch fluid.
For anyone wondering, I had the same issue.
1. Check to make sure the fork is getting about 1/2 to 5/8" movement from the slave cylinder on clutch compression. If it doesn't move that much you may need to replace master / slave cylinder and properly bleed the clutch line.
2. If that was not the issue and did not solve it, it's likely something in the bell housing broke
a. Pressure plate tooth came off
b. Piece of friction disk came off (I had a spring break off on my disk that was stuck between the pressure plate and friction disk causing it to stay engaged.
c. Issue with the fork / throw out bearing
Some later 350zs have a slave cylinder inside the bell housing, so I'd start on the master cylinder and bleeding those lines first.
Missing bolts saves weight, saving weight means he’s faster. 😅
your choice of t-shirt for this job is giving me anxiety