As a 42-year-old man with kids and a mortgage I've long left the tuner scene, but I'm slowly getting back into it. Can't afford an Evo Plus I kind of want to stay away from the four cylinder turbos. A Nissan 350Z seems to be my best bet without looking like a boy racer. Tough to find them up here in New England
I feel like one you overlooked is AERO. Ignoring some garish body kit that just adds drag and actually produces lift, properly tuned aero, I find, is essential for the track specifically on the 350z, as the rear bumper really is a bowl shaped parachute. The Nismo V3 kit, for instance, makes a night and day difference at high speed in terms of stability.
Truth about the gallery gaskets! The steel reinforced ones are the ticket imo especially if planning to shim up the regulator or go with VHR gears in a DE pump, or both. Been plenty of times those paper gaskets were the last piece of trash to come out the pickup tube
IMO check out NISformance. They have a pump with symetrical billet HR/VHR gears that goes in the DE/Rev-up and flows more than either. Used to let you specify shims in the regulator spring to add +10,20,30 PSI up past 5k. Oil out the pump flows up a chamber in the rear timing cover into a gallery that feeds the mains, squirters and the head gallery which is towards the top of the rear cover. The stock gaskets are thin paper and crack and blow out a section. HRs are notorious for doing it because of the wider pump gears but high milage DE's love to flake too.
Comments: 1. Gallery Gasket: 176k, still haven't needed! :P (This is NOT advice, check your oil pressure, like Matthew said) 2. Coil Over: Stock actually runs very well, so I would advise nothing less than coil overs. Springs alone well get you the ride height, but usually sacrifice the ride and performance. 3. Plenum: Absolute must, like he said, best power per dollar. I would swap your valve cover gaskets while you're there, as that requires plenum removal and they always fail. 4. Exhaust: Choose carefully here: the VQ is notorious for sounding like hot garbage with a cheap or overly loud exhaust. 5. Brakes: After setting mine on fire, I can tell you: get a BBK if you track. The 370z Akebono adapters are an excellent, cheap option that are bigger than even the 350z Brembos. 6a. Sways: Careful with going too stiff in the rear, especially on non-traction models; good way to wipe out. (unless you drift) 6b. Bushings: Go too solid, the ride will vibrate a filling loose. Whiteline is a good way to go. 7. Wheels: Be careful with wheels you track: thin spoke, cast wheels usually won't survive the track long term. If you are looking for light weight, thin spoke wheels, go forged, like the factory Ray's. 8. Clutch Kit: For those not wanting too stiff a pedal, consider a twin disc: double the surface area means less clamping force need = lighter pedal. 9. Diff Brace: Yup, always good. 10. Intake: The primary benefit, imo, of an intake is throttle response, not power. The tiny snorkel of the stock intakes lead to lag in throttle.
Great comments. 350Z HR owner here, 2 thirds of this list I whole-heartedly agree with, and the other third is only because I don't know enough about it to have an opinion on. Replying for the algorithm, to bump you further up the list as it seems this comment is vastly underrated.
I had a HR. My experience concerning this list. #4. I got a stillen and it sounded quite good. I was pleasantly surprised. No drone, great tone, and only loud when WOT. #6b. I used solid rear subframe bushings and they introduced to much NVH for me. I'm going to swapping them out to urethane. #9. You stock differential bushing WILL give up before 100mi. I replaced mine with a solid rubber unit AND used a greddy diff cover to get TWO rear diff mount studs and thus two solid rubber mounts. I had to weld in a bushing sleeve into the subframe though. Not mentioned. I'd argue the best bang for buck mods are a LSD and final drive upgrade. My FD is 4.08 and yes highway rpm is a little higher, but it's not obnoxious.
Something that’s not on this list that should be number 1 and is number 1 for all cars is TIRES. Tires offer the biggest bang for buck arguably. Improved ride, Increased performance accelerating, decelerating, and cornering, less road noise, lower unsprung mass and rotational mass. Whatever you are after just pick the right tire to suit. I always recommend Michelins. Expensive but worth the cost when you consider they’re the best by far.
Can't wait to feel the difference with the plenum Spacer on my 03 Australian Delivered Model. Considering a Exhaust to pair with the Spacer. Want it to be a close to stock as possible.
Plenum spacer and Motordyne ART pipes with a good Y-pipe will be the most noticeable improvement for a bolt on build....significantly nicer than stock, talking from experience :). And add a 1lb shift knob for much smoother stick, and add the RJM Adjustable Fulcrum Point Clutch Pedal.....transforms the car completely and makes it vastly more fun to drive without any jerky starts from a stop.
Do you have any reputable mechanics in Toronto/Vaughan Ontario Canada? Ive been to like 10 of them and they are telling me 10 different things that need to be fixed. I think the differential in my problem, whenever I break it just swing the back back and forward. i think I need a dumper to be replaced, but I'm not a mechanic......yet. thank you for your videos, they really do help.
Bro i have a 06 m35x with vq35de, engine upgrades are easy to find, idk what to do about transmission upgrades and the suspension parts that cant be swapped with g35 sedan parts plz help me out,
Absolutely not. All VQs are reliable except the revup with its low tension piston rings, suffering incredible blowby and blowing head gaskets for about 19 years now.
Honestly Z1 has made a name for them selfs i was at your shop for years 2010. This list is kinda bad though. Coilovers are good but we all know breaks are #1. List should be #1 breaks #2 oil cooler + radiator #3 cat back #4 CAI #5 spacer #6 tune #7 coilovers #8 suspension aka A-arms #9 diff brace and new bushings #10 clutch & fly These are most important and in this order as our cars have hot oil problems.
@@Z1Motorsports23 I didn't know that I thought they were saying it should be the first mod 😂. You guys really should do the 75 mm throttle body though. And so the importance of a tune I see too many people running around with full bolt-ons and no tune destroying their engine I 100% believe this should be a channel where you guys bust a lot of bad info.
PLEASE HELP I am supercharging my 350z and am working bottom up already pistons and rods suspension and braking, fuel pump etc but i’m looking at valve covers and the only options i see are oem or aluminum. Will the oem be able to hold 400+ hp for the price? or is there a brand out there specified for boosted vq’s
your valvecovers have absolutely nothing to do with horsepower dude. literally their single purpose is to keep to oil slapping off the cams contained in the engine and out of the spark plug holes. valvecovers serve zero purpose when it comes to power.. this question makes me wonder how you intend to boost your car without knowing something so obvious.
Also can you please do a dyno video of your 75mm throttlebody? There is such bad info out there when people think that a 75mm throttlebody will give 10+whp...... I would like to see a video of a tuned car hitting the dyno. Then adding a 75mm throttlebody and dyno it again same time and see if there is even a 2 whp gain. We all know that these cars are hard tk even gain 5 whp per mod let alone the 10whp people claim from a +5mm difference in TB size as stock is 70mm....
If installing the 75mm TB from NWP or others, you need an oversized intake (3.5" with upgraded MAF) and a plenum spacer larger than the typical 5/16". A 1/2" from Motordyne or 5/8" from Skunk will do, and a clever Uprev tune needs to go in. Also needs shorties and a double catback to flow out the back. On a plain old auto DE with the above I gained 45 rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics heartbroker dyno, Sep 2018 @ RS Tuning in Woodbridge. Radek knows his stuff.
you sure about oil pressure at idle when the temp is warmed up. not cold... google says idle should be at 14psi on a stock 350z after the car is warmed up
i bought a Tomei From Z1 MotorSports in 2021 and after installing the Tomei, i got pulled over the next day. All in all buy the TOMEI EXHAUST!! lol . Yes im from CA. Yes it was a 350z HR
As someone who has an 03 auto touring, I would still consider all these mods great. I'd also recommend if you want to keep the auto, to go for the TransGo valve body upgrade kit. It greatly decreases shift times and allows for much better drivability for anything high performance including forced induction or on nitrous. A definite upgrade that makes the auto Z more viable.
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When are we getting the z1 supercharger for the DE
don’t just like the comment z1 give us an answer !
Can the DE even handle it
@@stadic5311 DE can handle up to 400 torque
@stadic5311 of course, on stock internals too👍🏼
@@stadic5311admintuning has turbocharged ones pushing 600 stock internals
Love the 350z. It's a living legend. Tearing up the streets tracks and canyons for over 20 years
As a 42-year-old man with kids and a mortgage I've long left the tuner scene, but I'm slowly getting back into it. Can't afford an Evo Plus I kind of want to stay away from the four cylinder turbos. A Nissan 350Z seems to be my best bet without looking like a boy racer. Tough to find them up here in New England
I feel like one you overlooked is AERO. Ignoring some garish body kit that just adds drag and actually produces lift, properly tuned aero, I find, is essential for the track specifically on the 350z, as the rear bumper really is a bowl shaped parachute. The Nismo V3 kit, for instance, makes a night and day difference at high speed in terms of stability.
Nice I’m working on this checklist for my 08 350Z
You can do it!
Truth about the gallery gaskets! The steel reinforced ones are the ticket imo especially if planning to shim up the regulator or go with VHR gears in a DE pump, or both. Been plenty of times those paper gaskets were the last piece of trash to come out the pickup tube
Please may you explain a bit more to me? I’m looking at putting a Rev-up oil pump into my DE, do you think I’d need to address the gallery gasket?
IMO check out NISformance. They have a pump with symetrical billet HR/VHR gears that goes in the DE/Rev-up and flows more than either. Used to let you specify shims in the regulator spring to add +10,20,30 PSI up past 5k. Oil out the pump flows up a chamber in the rear timing cover into a gallery that feeds the mains, squirters and the head gallery which is towards the top of the rear cover. The stock gaskets are thin paper and crack and blow out a section. HRs are notorious for doing it because of the wider pump gears but high milage DE's love to flake too.
Very good list. Been modifying cars for 20years, and this is a perfect list for the platform. These mods give the most feedback for the money.
Comments:
1. Gallery Gasket: 176k, still haven't needed! :P (This is NOT advice, check your oil pressure, like Matthew said)
2. Coil Over: Stock actually runs very well, so I would advise nothing less than coil overs. Springs alone well get you the ride height, but usually sacrifice the ride and performance.
3. Plenum: Absolute must, like he said, best power per dollar. I would swap your valve cover gaskets while you're there, as that requires plenum removal and they always fail.
4. Exhaust: Choose carefully here: the VQ is notorious for sounding like hot garbage with a cheap or overly loud exhaust.
5. Brakes: After setting mine on fire, I can tell you: get a BBK if you track. The 370z Akebono adapters are an excellent, cheap option that are bigger than even the 350z Brembos.
6a. Sways: Careful with going too stiff in the rear, especially on non-traction models; good way to wipe out. (unless you drift)
6b. Bushings: Go too solid, the ride will vibrate a filling loose. Whiteline is a good way to go.
7. Wheels: Be careful with wheels you track: thin spoke, cast wheels usually won't survive the track long term. If you are looking for light weight, thin spoke wheels, go forged, like the factory Ray's.
8. Clutch Kit: For those not wanting too stiff a pedal, consider a twin disc: double the surface area means less clamping force need = lighter pedal.
9. Diff Brace: Yup, always good.
10. Intake: The primary benefit, imo, of an intake is throttle response, not power. The tiny snorkel of the stock intakes lead to lag in throttle.
Great comments. 350Z HR owner here, 2 thirds of this list I whole-heartedly agree with, and the other third is only because I don't know enough about it to have an opinion on. Replying for the algorithm, to bump you further up the list as it seems this comment is vastly underrated.
@@pkbeast Ha, appreciate that!
I had a HR. My experience concerning this list.
#4. I got a stillen and it sounded quite good. I was pleasantly surprised. No drone, great tone, and only loud when WOT.
#6b. I used solid rear subframe bushings and they introduced to much NVH for me. I'm going to swapping them out to urethane.
#9. You stock differential bushing WILL give up before 100mi. I replaced mine with a solid rubber unit AND used a greddy diff cover to get TWO rear diff mount studs and thus two solid rubber mounts. I had to weld in a bushing sleeve into the subframe though.
Not mentioned. I'd argue the best bang for buck mods are a LSD and final drive upgrade. My FD is 4.08 and yes highway rpm is a little higher, but it's not obnoxious.
Make one for the 370z next please
We plan on it!
@@Z1Motorsports23cannot wait
Something that’s not on this list that should be number 1 and is number 1 for all cars is TIRES. Tires offer the biggest bang for buck arguably. Improved ride, Increased performance accelerating, decelerating, and cornering, less road noise, lower unsprung mass and rotational mass. Whatever you are after just pick the right tire to suit. I always recommend Michelins. Expensive but worth the cost when you consider they’re the best by far.
Tired are on the list…
@@Snipe50time stamp??
Nissan's manual says idle oil PSI is 14psi +/-1. Slight misinformation there. Other than that fairly good advice.
9 out of 10 in one shot got to look up number 1 again .
solid info, just picked up an 04 350z a couple months ago, already have some of the mods listed, but will look at others from the list now as well.
I thought the VHR was the only one with the gallery gasket issue. Never heard of the DE or HR having that problem
All vqs have that problem
Will it fix the rev up oil consumption issue?
Can't wait to feel the difference with the plenum Spacer on my 03 Australian Delivered Model. Considering a Exhaust to pair with the Spacer. Want it to be a close to stock as possible.
Plenum spacer and Motordyne ART pipes with a good Y-pipe will be the most noticeable improvement for a bolt on build....significantly nicer than stock, talking from experience :). And add a 1lb shift knob for much smoother stick, and add the RJM Adjustable Fulcrum Point Clutch Pedal.....transforms the car completely and makes it vastly more fun to drive without any jerky starts from a stop.
Really great video
you guys are great with top notch advices, big Thanks for newbie like me,
My 04 at cold I bought a tester it was 28 warm 19 mine is a short in the oil sensor
Damn I got all these except the sway bars, good info
3:34 what if you have a rev up? Is either worth it?
Are you coming out with forged fucas for the Z33?
on a real note where did you buy that 350z convertible model toy?
Do you have any reputable mechanics in Toronto/Vaughan Ontario Canada? Ive been to like 10 of them and they are telling me 10 different things that need to be fixed. I think the differential in my problem, whenever I break it just swing the back back and forward. i think I need a dumper to be replaced, but I'm not a mechanic......yet. thank you for your videos, they really do help.
Bro i have a 06 m35x with vq35de, engine upgrades are easy to find, idk what to do about transmission upgrades and the suspension parts that cant be swapped with g35 sedan parts plz help me out,
what year did nissan fix the gallery gaskets in 370s?
Waiting for the 370z video
Yes!
pretty much the same thing honestly
It’s would be probably the same thing.
Hi Z1,
How can I read a misfire with the scan tool from Z1 on a 370Z?
Would gallery gaskets fix the rev up (2006 and 2005 anniversary only) oil consumption issue?
Absolutely not. All VQs are reliable except the revup with its low tension piston rings, suffering incredible blowby and blowing head gaskets for about 19 years now.
Honestly Z1 has made a name for them selfs i was at your shop for years 2010. This list is kinda bad though. Coilovers are good but we all know breaks are #1.
List should be
#1 breaks
#2 oil cooler + radiator
#3 cat back
#4 CAI
#5 spacer
#6 tune
#7 coilovers
#8 suspension aka A-arms
#9 diff brace and new bushings
#10 clutch & fly
These are most important and in this order as our cars have hot oil problems.
Our list is not on a 1 to 10 scale, this is in no particular order!
@@Z1Motorsports23 I didn't know that I thought they were saying it should be the first mod 😂.
You guys really should do the 75 mm throttle body though.
And so the importance of a tune I see too many people running around with full bolt-ons and no tune destroying their engine I 100% believe this should be a channel where you guys bust a lot of bad info.
If there is a turbo kit from z1 for 350z HR, would get one
Light weight ,and shorter final gear ... Thats all.
The weight of seats, speaker ,catalyst and rear trunk are madness
A good tune would be number 1!
PLEASE HELP
I am supercharging my 350z and am working bottom up already pistons and rods suspension and braking, fuel pump etc but i’m looking at valve covers and the only options i see are oem or aluminum. Will the oem be able to hold 400+ hp for the price? or is there a brand out there specified for boosted vq’s
it’s a DE engine btw
your valvecovers have absolutely nothing to do with horsepower dude. literally their single purpose is to keep to oil slapping off the cams contained in the engine and out of the spark plug holes. valvecovers serve zero purpose when it comes to power.. this question makes me wonder how you intend to boost your car without knowing something so obvious.
how come Z1 wheels aren’t clowned on for being reps, but my Aodhan DS01’s (which are actually good wheels) get heat 🤷🏾♂️
Oil catch can?
Also can you please do a dyno video of your 75mm throttlebody? There is such bad info out there when people think that a 75mm throttlebody will give 10+whp...... I would like to see a video of a tuned car hitting the dyno. Then adding a 75mm throttlebody and dyno it again same time and see if there is even a 2 whp gain. We all know that these cars are hard tk even gain 5 whp per mod let alone the 10whp people claim from a +5mm difference in TB size as stock is 70mm....
If installing the 75mm TB from NWP or others, you need an oversized intake (3.5" with upgraded MAF) and a plenum spacer larger than the typical 5/16". A 1/2" from Motordyne or 5/8" from Skunk will do, and a clever Uprev tune needs to go in. Also needs shorties and a double catback to flow out the back. On a plain old auto DE with the above I gained 45 rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics heartbroker dyno, Sep 2018 @ RS Tuning in Woodbridge. Radek knows his stuff.
you sure about oil pressure at idle when the temp is warmed up. not cold... google says idle should be at 14psi on a stock 350z after the car is warmed up
Definitely decent tyres first
❤
Waiting for the G37 video
Yeah endless list of mods Z1 won't ship to me. C'mon man!!!
Not a bad way to spend 10k
i bought a Tomei From Z1 MotorSports in 2021 and after installing the Tomei, i got pulled over the next day. All in all buy the TOMEI EXHAUST!! lol
.
Yes im from CA. Yes it was a 350z HR
What mods are worth it when I only have the automatic convertiable 2006?
As someone who has an 03 auto touring, I would still consider all these mods great. I'd also recommend if you want to keep the auto, to go for the TransGo valve body upgrade kit. It greatly decreases shift times and allows for much better drivability for anything high performance including forced induction or on nitrous. A definite upgrade that makes the auto Z more viable.
#1 mods to any car is DRIVER MODS!!
bro shhh
350zzzzzzzzzz
?
ALOT of great suggestions but notice , not one price tag lol. Spend 30 grand on a 10k car.. mmmmm naw
WHERE CAN I GET THAT DIECAST ROADSTER?? 😃🫶
Oil catch can?