Why would anyone getting over 15,000 miles on a tire , change to a cheaper tire , with probably less miles of wear , does not add up ? You are making the tire change harder than it has to be , I have a car tire manual bead braker , I made the foot piece longer and reinforced the up right piece leaning toward the tire a little from harbor freight , 1 push on each side of the tire its broke down . I use original armor all to lube both tire beads (says on the bottle good for rubber) tire comes off very easy , I clean both wheel beads then paste car wax both (any soap and etc.. will cause the aluminum to oxidise and pit your wheel beads will leak air after a little while) I put armor all on both beads and the under side of the top bead (new tire) wipe off the excess , with a damp rag (water) around the wheel and tire beads you can slam the bottom bead on the wheel with out a tire tool , then wet the top beads with the rag and put it on , its slicker that snot on a door knob , and I use the short tire tools 08 ultra . I static balance my tires with a 1/2 inch rod an 2 1/2 inch ID bearings removed the bearing seals washed out the grease , oiled the bearings an installed the seals an 1/4 oz stick on weights from the tire shop , equal amount of weights on each side of the wheel . I didnt remove the belt side muffler the last change just the right side muffler , with the jack under the tire take the bottom shock bolts out , loosen the top shock bolts pull the shocks toward the rear out of the way an snug the top bolts to hold then there , jack the tire up till the axle will just come between the bottom chrome bag rail and the black rail the bag sets on (block the swing arm from dropping ) turning the axle slightly as it comes threw , as you let the tire down put a bolt in 1 shock to hold the swing arm up an take the tire out > much less work an less to tear apart .Sometimes I use a couple c-clamps on the tread edge to clamp the top an bottom tire beads closer together so they go into the center of the wheel easier and the top bead goes on easier the rubber tire bead can be damaged/cut and leak , thats my way , you do what ever you want .........
Thanks for the comment Charles, I went with the Shinko tires just to try something different and to do a review on it after getting everything out of it. I'll have to try the Armor all next time I do a tire change. Thanks again.
Why would anyone getting over 15,000 miles on a tire , change to a cheaper tire , with probably less miles of wear , does not add up ? You are making the tire change harder than it has to be , I have a car tire manual bead braker , I made the foot piece longer and reinforced the up right piece leaning toward the tire a little from harbor freight , 1 push on each side of the tire its broke down . I use original armor all to lube both tire beads (says on the bottle good for rubber) tire comes off very easy , I clean both wheel beads then paste car wax both (any soap and etc.. will cause the aluminum to oxidise and pit your wheel beads will leak air after a little while) I put armor all on both beads and the under side of the top bead (new tire) wipe off the excess , with a damp rag (water) around the wheel and tire beads you can slam the bottom bead on the wheel with out a tire tool , then wet the top beads with the rag and put it on , its slicker that snot on a door knob , and I use the short tire tools 08 ultra . I static balance my tires with a 1/2 inch rod an 2 1/2 inch ID bearings removed the bearing seals washed out the grease , oiled the bearings an installed the seals an 1/4 oz stick on weights from the tire shop , equal amount of weights on each side of the wheel . I didnt remove the belt side muffler the last change just the right side muffler , with the jack under the tire take the bottom shock bolts out , loosen the top shock bolts pull the shocks toward the rear out of the way an snug the top bolts to hold then there , jack the tire up till the axle will just come between the bottom chrome bag rail and the black rail the bag sets on (block the swing arm from dropping ) turning the axle slightly as it comes threw , as you let the tire down put a bolt in 1 shock to hold the swing arm up an take the tire out > much less work an less to tear apart .Sometimes I use a couple c-clamps on the tread edge to clamp the top an bottom tire beads closer together so they go into the center of the wheel easier and the top bead goes on easier the rubber tire bead can be damaged/cut and leak , thats my way , you do what ever you want .........
Thanks for the comment Charles, I went with the Shinko tires just to try something different and to do a review on it after getting everything out of it. I'll have to try the Armor all next time I do a tire change.
Thanks again.