My mother let her car go 30,000 miles with Mobil 1 with no filter or oil changes. I was upset at her to say the least but when I found out and changed it that day I was amazed the oil still flowed out smoothly with no sludgy lumps. Engine is still running strong to this day.
This is what I use in my 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R turbo engine. 334,000 miles and counting fast. ;) I have had my oil tested at a laboratory after I changed it and now change my oil every 10,000 miles.
2006 Camry 2.4 liter....nothing has been touched in engine or transmission....425k miles ...since the beginning 5w30 extended 15k/20k mile Mobil one....I change it every 10k...
lol at least royal purple admits on their myth busting page that synthetic can actually get through cylinder wear and old seals that conventional may not be able to
Oil engineers are the only persons qualified to speak about the qualities of oils, mechanics are not and their videos are useless. Also, the video speaks about "synthetic oils" not just Mobil one.
I bought a 2000 5.3 silverado with 698000 miles on it! The engine still ran good and had never had any serious problems. The truck was on its third rear end and second transmission and the suspension was worn out but the motor was original! astonished by the rediculous milage that this engine had survived, i asked the man that sold me the truck which oil he used. He said he only uses mobol 1. Ive never used any other oil sence.
I like Mobil 1 but you are a little misleading on one point synthetic oil can make leaks worse or can leak where a conv oil does not I agree it does not damage seals but the smaller molecules will leak past things that conv oil would never get by as a 25 year master tech. I see this happen all the time a higher mileage engine is switched to SYNC. oil and it starts leaking not because the oil is damaging the seals like most people think but because the seals are already weak if you have some small oil leaks with conv oil they will get worse with sync. oil
You guys are all wrong. It doesn't have to do with smaller molecules lol. What happens is when you have a car (using conventional) with bad gaskets in it and is overdue for being resealed the "slow" leaks carry sludge deposits almost like using stop leak lol. Full synthetic oils have a massive amount of detergents in them that clean away that sludge that has been holding that old bad gasket leak. So, if you have good gaskets it wont cause a leak. But if you (or the previous owner) haven't been taking care of your car, and decide to use synthetic, you will have leaks.
HMMM may be some truth to that however for you to say that "You guys are all wrong" umm I call BS I decided to look at detergent levels in conv vs sny. not really allot of difference dude so I have to disagree. . So if you have a leak and you put in an oil with molecules that are 4 to 5 times smaller how is it that the leaks won't get worse? interested to see how you will spin this
In my opinion Mobil 1 15w50 is the only oil from the Mobil 1 range suited for classic cars because it has around 1200ppm of ZDDP which is vital for flat tappet cams , wrist pins , and bearings
+Capri Driver Thank you, good to know. Running the "Comp Cam" breakin oil in my '65 SS 383 w/N+L79H Comp Cam, flat tappet. Was going to run regular "Comp Cam" oil afterwards, always have liked Mobil 1. Will monitor M1 ZDDP with a the oil samples, I take, during and after breakin. Of course, no substitute for "molybdenum graphite" spray and then cam lube during assembly, and a filter only change IMMEDIATELY after first 1/2 hr of cam breakin @ 2000. Sounds like you know! Any thought's welcomed. "Wheels Up" Bill
i found out that M1 15w50 since now it's switched to API SN It has about 1000 to 1100 ppm but this is till fine, another great oil is Valvoline VR1, It has 1300ppm and can be founds cheaply and is available in conventional and synthetic form, it's also available in tons of viscosities : 20w50, 10w30, 5w50, 10w60, and Straight 30,40,50 and 60
Old Fords Don't die ... go to the API website and lean about viscosity. Youll,stop using that heavy oil that ups your oil pressure to the gauge, lowers it to the bearings, cuts flow in half, and takes a long time to get to 210* so the viscosity can flow to you bearings. Think... you dont see long distance racers using heavy oil. Why?? Use a 5 or 10 base oil and add ZDDP to it... if you dont have cats.
15/50 m1 is what i run. It is the best for older engines. Not nearly as thick as old 20/50 i ran before synthetics came around. Flow rates are much better with synthetics.
@@teresarichey6260 The zinc thing is a myth. You would have lessened your chances of wiping a cam by using M1 full synthetic for break in. People use synthetic oil in their classic cars without issues.
You are EXACTLY right. I have been using Mobil 1 for over 20 years. I have a 1990 crown vic with over 268,00 miles and it doesn't leak either.Another little test I did, I duct taped together a quart of Valvoline,Havoline,Pennzoil,Moblie 1 .Put them in the chest freezer and left for 10 days. Left the oil taped together, took cap off each one, turned upside the ONLY one to pour out easily was the Mobil1. Oil being able to flow during cold weather protects engine during cold weather start ups.
No, synthetic oil doesn't CAUSE leaks, but they should have mentioned that older cars MAY leak when using synthetic oil when it won't with petroleum oil because the molecules are smaller, so the oil will leak through the gaps that do exist when regular petroleum oil, with its bigger molecules, cannot fit through.
+fly bobbie Its from the extra detergents put into the oil, it cleans the varnishing left behind from conventional oil. I use Royal Purple, have for the last 17yrs. all my engines look new inside.. every car will leak with time, just replace the leaking seals.
+Thomas Maresh I can confirm. I had a 1988 4 cylinder volvo. When using synthetic oil, it leaked from many locations. Synthetic is just runnier compared to regular oils. Also, I had to use a heavier weight oil to minimize the seal leaks.
Myth #4 can be fact. I bought an old Cherokee with a small oil leak. I changed to synthetic and it became a gusher. I've heard & read similar from many others.
I am ASE (Automotive Society of Engineers) Certified, through engineering courses, not just a limited key point knowledge required to pass a test at a shop. Meaning had to learn the engineering of oils and the molecular make-up of all fluids concerning automotive! Other than the obvious beneficial additives synthetic offers and the higher price, synthetic oils do not expand seals as the old non-synthetic oils do, so the only downfall would be oil leaking past old worn seals, however, just adding 1 quart of non syn will give the expansion rate an old seal may require if you want to run syn in a high-mileage engine, as long as they are both API (American Petroleum institute) approved and of the same viscosity (resistance to flow), one can mix all you want! The difference between brands has to do with where the oil came from; Texas oil such as GTX has less paraphins as crude oil vs east coast derived oils, so less refinement from Texas oils needed! I know several that are ASE certified through a shop and have no clue of the engineering of the majority of the vast knowledge involved through the automotive, especially the electrical. Next time you see an ASE patch, ask what a pull down circuit is (to truly understand one must understand the molecular make up of electron flow), which one will not learn through a shop to become certified. It is when a circuit is ground side switched, typically low current applications, such as computerized controlled actuators, like injectors. Reason being, is less chance of voltage spike, less chance of frying a delicate circuit, when connected from the ground side, the voltage of the hot wire is 12v until the ground side of the load is connected, dropping the voltage in the line to near zero because grounding the load has opened, in essence, the electron damn, so the (pressure) voltage drops, the voltage is “pulled down” being used by the load, hence, “pull down circuit”. Because electrons flow from Negative to Positive, less chance of electrons jumping (with positive side switching, “Pull UP Circuits”, electrons will jump greater distance, equals greater voltage spike), exactly why Negative on the Battery is disconnected first and hooked up last, Less chance of electron jump, equals smaller spark, equals less chance of explosion! Reason I state this, is that if you have concerns talk to a Tech ASE certified through a college. Essentially, a dictionary vs encyclopedia. There is so much dis-info out there! Rarely do I hear the true concern as to why or why not, such as "oil may leak because the old seals are not being expanded any more, makes me wonder if any in this video even know! Also, Seek Jesus and Repent (turn from living in sin), please!
Engines generally don't wear out. They are neglected to death or abused. The cooling system is the cause of most engine death. Most vehicles don't get repaired when they break anymore. That's when I get it. Or it ends in the salvage yard. You don't have to be religious about maintenance but it doesn't hurt. Change hoses and belts, flush and replace coolant. You'll get tired of the car before it wears out. Use the oil of your choice, change it at manufacturers recommended mileage. Moisture is the real enemy of an engine. Oil changes can be extended on highway cars that get hot enough to boil off the water from condensation. Granny's car should have more frequent oil changes because they don't get hot on short hauls to the hair dresser but they look good. Change the coolant and hoses!
You're right, preventative maintenance is what is required, most people can't be arsed though until something breaks and then they moan at the bill. Saying that most garages do fuck all on a service, bare minimum.
I have proven it on 3 cars that didn't leak before when I bought them and leaked afterward. Nothing too major usually, as you say, it's not due to ruining seals but because it is just a lot more able to find a way out than regular oil.
@@southwestxnorthwest "A stock car, in the original sense of the term, is an automobile that has not been modified from its original factory configuration." Makes sense to me.
I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. Mobil 1 was used a year and a half ago. for one year. The piston oil ring stuck in three of the four cylinders and the oil consumption went from 1 quart to 3.5 quarts in 5000 miles. I had to go back to conventional oil use a strong additive to clean the ring with 3 cans and the consumption went back to almost normal and with now 4 more oil changes the last of the carbon has been removed. The power output is back to normal with the vehicle now at 312k miles. hope 450k
What i think. You tried M1 on an older engine that ran conventional for years and experienced oil consumption. Common occurrence. as stated above may go away after a while, may not. But its not M1 specific, its the engine. Some can't run synthetics. Old, loose, worn a bit. The thicker slower flowing dirty conventional oil may be what you need to run if adding oil bothers you. BTW, adding oil is not necessarily a bad thing. Replenishment with fresh oil keeps the oil stronger and cleaner.
I've been using Mobil 1 oil exclusively in all my cars since 1983. Let me tell you a story. In 1986 I was driving my 1978 GMC Vandura with 80,000 miles on it down the freeway on vacation hundreds of miles from my home when I noticed the oil gauge wasn't working. I drove another 8 miles to finally get to a gas station and check my oil just to make sure. There wasn't a drop of oil in the crank case. The PCV valve had clogged and had caused a manifold gasket to blow and pump all 5 quarts of Mobil 1 out of the engine. I yanked the PCV valve, filled it with 5 new quarts of Mobil 1 and drove it home. Years later and with 140,000 miles on the motor I finally sold that van and it still never used a drop of oil. I have no idea how many miles I drove before I noticed the oil gauge not working. It could have been for hundreds of miles. Now I have a 1990 Infiniti M30 that's been my only car since I bought it in 1994. I've had it for 21 years now. That's right. It doesn't use a drop of oil and it passes smog tests in Southern California like it was brand spanking new. The smog guys can never believe it. I've done no repairs at all to this car in 21 years....and I've only changed the oil every 25,000 miles. So..... I'm also a retired aerospace mechanic. You know what every jet engine uses for oil? It's not Mobil 1, but it is a synthetic Mobil oil just like Mobil 1 but much thinner. So......ya, Mobil 1 is like the one thing that has really proven itself to me in my life. Yokohama tires used to be pretty good too.
Bullshit, this completely defies physics. There is such a thing as "blow-by", where oil will escape piston rings, every single automobile and internal combustion engine ever produced has it. Blow-by is by design actually. You say no oil is burned, that's complete bullshit. In fact the PCV valve is designed to let oil blow-by gasses escape and back into the intake manifold. You say no oil is burned, but as a matter of fact with synthetic oil more will slide past the piston rings. The key to maintaining your engine is regular maintenance and what the manufacturer recommends, not what a petroleum company recommends.
***** Actually, synthetic oil is no more prone to sliding past the rings than conventional oil, if they are of the same viscosity. Secondly, synthetic oil has a much higher burn temperature, and that's why it lasts so much longer and protects better than conventional oil. I haven't changed the oil in my Infiniti in 5 years and it's running perfect. I guess I should change it, but I live in the high desert and only drive it 600 miles a year. I think I have the last running M30 in California. I never see these cars on the road anymore.
I use M1 on my 2004 Tacoma, so I am not biased. Yes, Synthetic motor oil does have a higher slide rate than conventional oil, it is designed this way. I've spoken to ASE certified mechanics, even my own regular shop confirmed this. I'm not trying to convince you to stop using it, what I am saying is, yes you do burn oil no matter what you think.
***** Did I say it doesn't burn? I said it has a much higher burn temperature. This is the real reason the rings last longer, because it isn't burning nearly as easily as conventional oils. This one fact is why rings and valve guides last longer with synthetics. It's not because it's slipperier. It's because it's not turning into carbon as quickly. Okay, I did say that my engines never used a drop of oil, but don't be such a literalist. The truth is that I often drove 20,000 miles and didn't need to add oil. I'm not actually counting drops.
1971SuperLead Agreed... This is the thing about Mobil 1 so many people have used it for years - have positive results - I disassembled a car with about 250000 run on Mobil 1 and the tolerances and condition was amazing like a 40k engine. I have stripped engines ran on cheap oil and cant measure tolerances because they are so gummed up and don't really need to anyway because there so clearly miles out. Im not going to listen to anyone that says Castrol GTX et al is as good as Mobil 1. I know it is not. Now big brand synthetic may be as good as Mobil 1 but it will be a similar price anyway, so why not stick with Mobil1 !? A lot of knocking I have seen of Mobil 1 can be put down to someone trying to flog their product. Now if your old banger is only going to be thrashed around for a few years stick rubbish in but I have definitely seen a 15% increase in economy with Mobil1 so arguably it pays for itself.
My car has 282,000 miles on it now. It has never had anything but Mobil 1. Still gets me to work everyday. My change interval is between 6 to 9000 miles. My 1974 Simplicity tractor gets nothing but Mobil 1 15-50 weight. I mow 2 to 5 acres every week in the summer. Never had a wrench on it. This oil is worth every penny it cost.
I've only used Mobil-1 Synthetic once. Tried it in my 150,000 mile Isuzu Trooper. Immediately after changing the oil and filter I heard something like valve chattering. Drove only a few hundred miles and drained the Mobil-1 and put in conventional oil. Engine was quieter but not completely quiet until later I revved the Engine while idling to 5,000 rpms. Now quiet. That might have been a coincidence. Maybe someday I'll try Mobil-1 again but that was my experience with it.
I had exactly the opposite experience. When i bought my 6 year old ford XR5 turbo (5 cylinder twin cam turbo) i had it serviced and put in some top shelf mobile 1 0w40 ultimate all round performance oil. It immediately changed for the better. I dont know what oil was in it before, but now it starts smoother, quieter and runs brilliantly. I noticed the difference straight away.
if you fill up with a 0W30 and your engine needs a 10W40 or more, you can certainly hear the hydr valve rockers. So stick to the minimum specs and don't blame the oil.
All's i can tell you guys is, oils aint oils. Ive seen experiements where different brands of oil are chilled to the same temp and then poured, all the same rating 0w-40 and they all poured at different speeds. The mobil 1 poured like normal. most of the others barely moved at all. They are SUPPOSED to be the same. The other thing is the ingredients. its not just the viscosity ratings. Film strength, clensing ability and temperature and chemical resistance to breakdown are all important. I dont skimp on oil after lengthy conversations with mechanical engineers at work.
CAVEAT: there is an element of truth in the causing leaks issue. IF your car was older and IF you had sludge THEN IF the oil cleans up the crude/sludge from the crevices THEN you could develop leaks. Think of the crud like "platelets." This is also true if you use an internal engine cleaner. In addition the ability of synthetics to flow through narrow spaces at a colder temp is greater. Think of this as thinner blood. In a compromised engine it could leak out or blow by the rings faster. Hence the reputation in "older" and high mileage engines. I have had this happen to me.
I put 336,000 miles on my 1998 Volvo S70. I changed my oil every 5k and used whatever was on sale, full synthetic, blended or just plain oil. The key is to change your oil, but I do believe that your engine will be cleaner with full synthetic. That is proven.
thanks for this info!!! I heard the first myth before and thought it was true because it was explained to me that if you switch regular oil in high mileage cars around 50,000 to synthetic, parts would become looser and may cause breakdowns? It has to do with the regular oil being thicker between the parts and the synthetic oil is thinner between part. I can't remember but I think a mechanic told me this back in the early days of synthetic oils.
i buy mobil 1 at wal mart in tenn for $26.00 reg mobil oil i thank it is $ 21.00 . i have a 1990 chev p u with 215000 miles on it runs like new i have always have used mobil in it . and i will always will
Myth Number 4, Synthetic oil causes leaks. I agree that it doesn't but, that guy scares me. He is scarier than clowns behaving badly. I think he is not what he is. His body is from an alien pod.......... ..OMG! He doesn't blink!..........Why so serious?
Yes. The sludge from conventional oils builds up in these areas reducing the oil loss. Mobil 1 will eventually remove the sludge allowing more of the oil to seep out. If there is a way out, Mobil 1 will find it. If all of your seals and gaskets are in good shape, they won't leak.
I was backing up your argument with my experiences. My car's manufacturer does not suggest anything less than 98 octane... yes it is a performance vehicle.
Have you EVER wondered why they change the oil every 10k miles (pretty muich ONCE a year) in Europe? And it has been like that for a LOOONG time. It DOES work with the right oil and filter!
In Europe the average annual mileage is about half of what we do in North America. e.g., A Canadian's average annual mileage is around 25,000 km; In the UK, the average will be around 12,500 km/yr. We have a lot greater distances to travel than in small Euro countries, and besides that, we just drive everywhere anyway.
Bill Bunyack You still change the oil every 10k miles instead of 3-5k miles in Europe. So that's 2-3 times less oil changes no matter how much you drive.
More modern vehicles have longer service intervals. I suspect that the average vehicle age in Europe is lower since it becomes too expensive to keep an older vehicle on the road (i.e. punitive emissions laws, etc.). They also have more diesel engine cars. I'm not sure, but I think they may have longer oil change intervals? And, finally, the service intervals for a vehicle driven year round in places like Edmonton or northern Michigan are going to necessarily be shorter than if someone is driving in Brussels or London.
Bill Bunyack Diesel engines have rather shorter intervals because of the higher compression that pushes more emmisions into the oil but the difference is the oil and the filter they use. Excessive wear isn't an issue in Europe either. 200k miles is no problem at all. I actually haven't heard of problems with any internal "wear-parts". It's usually something else that can cause an engine failure like a broken water or oil pump, blown gasket... I'm from Bavaria and you get temperatures like in NY there. Edmonton might get a little bit colder. But that doesn't mean that you need "Edmonton-intervals" for every state or province North America. I bet they have the same ones in Florida and California.
Royal Purple oil and Purolator Synthetic oil filters are the best you can buy. I have done plenty of research and the facts are undeniable.... I only buy the best and Mobil 1 will never make my list....
This is nothing more than a 4.29 minute commercial From Mobil Oil stating their product is good.. And of course it is!!! It states it right on the container -- just like all the other oils which government specs it had to pass.. The best oil is still a Straight -- 30weight in the summer ,, 20weight in the winter.. And Most ALL will last more than 6000 mile between changes.. (non det will not)
Our bigger air compressor was having trouble starting up at about 30 deg F with air in the tank. it was running conventional oil. We bled off the air and started it up to warm up the oil and let it run without any pressure until it was running normally and then let it build a head. One of the options for oil in the compressor is Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30. We drained the oil. The Mobil oil was stored in a heated area. We put the oil in and started up the compressor. It made weird sounds for a while and then started running normally. We have not tried starting the compressor with a full air tank yet when it is cold. Will report back later today.
30 years and still the best. You want proof it has not changed in 30 years. I use it in all my cars trucks and lawn equipment. Never have I had a problem. I buy it by the gallon. Use it on every service.
I used to sell Mobil 1 starting in the 70s, and learned all I could about the product, once you know its benefits, it sells itself, and I still swear by it to this day, I have a brand new Ford EcoBoost, and it purrs like a kitten, and it will never have sludge build-up.
Busting myths about chocolate ice cream Myth # 1 Chocolate ice cream is NOT the best flavor of ice cream. Chocolate Ice Cream Producer (expert): False. Chocolate ice cream is the best. I actually decided against using Mobile 1 because of this video. Furthermore, I'm planning on using this video in the classroom to teach research skills such as identifying propaganda techniques, bias and the importance of using neutral sources. That a major oil company with almost unlimited resources would create a video that so patently and so deceitfully omits evidence from a professionally produced film is a strong indicator that there MUST be a reason for the avoidance of simple facts.
Mark Thomas. Omits evidence? Simple facts? Which ones? Be specific. You said "in the classroom"? I bet you already know about propaganda techniques and bias. And your chocolate analogy is flawed because it starts and ends as an opinion.
The myths aren't really answered. There was no explanations of why the myths are "absolutely false". They just keep throwing Mobil1 in your face without telling you why it is better.
anything beats regular oil ...wont use anything but Synthetic oil ..no matter who makes it ..flows in cold greater hot protection ,,wont stick your rings ...list goes on
I did notice that Bill said you "can" use "Mobil one" in old cars and high mileage cars. He did not say "should." I can do a lot things that I "should" not do.
There is nothing wrong with using a synthetic in a high mileage vehicle. Nothing at all. It will always protect the engine better than conventional oil.
I use Mobil 1 in my 1993 Ford Ranger. People laugh at me, say it's an unnecessary expense for an old POS. I'm going to run this engine to the end of its life, unlike so many of you that don't maintain a vehicle properly and have to replace it every few years.
A bit of clarification. Synthetic oil does not cause leaks however if your seals are compromised and old they are more likely to leak if you switch to synthetic oil especially after having used conventional oil for years or decades. I have two Saabs. 1 has always used synthetic and still does great after 150,000 miles. The other used conventional for 200,000 miles and as soon as I switched to synthetic it leaked heavily. so I immediately switched back. No more leaks!
+leafmixer EXACTLY! I love it when someone is educated as to the real concerns!!! I read your post AFTER venting mine as to why you should or not run synthetic.
I first used Mobil 1 in a four cylinder motorcycle in the mid 1970's. I've never had an engine fail with either regular or synthetic, but prefer synthetic for the obvious gains of longer life, with less degradation, and cold winter viscosity benefits. I expect Mobil to have a slight edge on technology but Castrol/Valvoline/Pennzoil can't be far behind. I actually can't understand the oddball alternative conspiracy types who're always drawn to the outlier brand just because they use an anti-Big Guy advertising ploy. Amzoil was one of the first, but Royal Purple, etc. follow the scheme I can't believe, as tiny companies without the research budgets to create the products they tout as magically superior. Smaller companies may have to buy base components from industrial petroleum suppliers, which may be fine, but never likely to be better. But of course youtubers are superior to those with degrees in petroleum engineering.
I use full synthetic in both my cars. Mobil 1 in my 2010 Mustang and I use Joe Gibbs racing oil in my '64 Nova. I'll never use anything else. What I like most about full synthetic is how long it lasts. The Mustang gets changed every 6 months, or 5000 miles. The racing oil gets changed every two years, or 5000 miles. My engines are always clean inside. Never had any sludge or build up! Oh, and always use a quality oil filter. I use K&N oil filters, or Mobil 1 filters.
Bullshit, synthetic oil has additives that clean the engine where build up is. Meaning when you run synthetic in an old car that might have a leak, it is more prone to leak even more because of it being cleaned out, as conventional oil almost acts as a shitty seal itself. So when they say it helps with seal leaks...... please explain.
It has nothing to do with the type of oil but rather the flow rate. If you change from a conventional oil to a synthetic you have to consider that - as you've stated already, synthetics have detergents that help keep an engine clean - a more different formula will be required. This is also why high-mileage oils exist in the first place. They tend to have either thicker blends or the oil has a higher surface tension/flow rate to keep it from oozing through seals. There's also a matter of operating temperature. As the engine heats from cold crank to optimal operating temperature, the oil's viscosity changes, and if that same oil isn't rated for that operating temperature the results will be sub-optimal which leads to one of two issues; either the oil is too thin - leading to leaks - or the oil is too thick, leading to poor lubrication.
The rate of flow should depend almost entirely on the displacement of the oil pump stroke and engine speed as this is what drives the pump and not on viscosity or oil type conventional or synthetic. Though conventional oil is more likely to have a marginally higher initial viscosity due its oil base . This will result in higher pressure and losses at restriction points, and the extra energy required to pump will generate heat that will thin the oil and reduce it's viscosity. All oils made that match reqirements specified for use by engine manufacturers are more than capable and are certainly of well matched for the the normal temperature range of engines .
I use Mobil1 5w-40 in my diesel power stroke and I have pictures of the inside of the gallon containers that it comes in and at the bottom I have a black crust and I have three containers like this. Who can I send these pictures too? It looks like a fine sandy black crust. It really scared me because that's in my engine now.
A lot of new cars are shipped with synthetic oil nowadays... The factory oil is meant to provide LESS protection usually to allow rings to seat properly in the cylinders etc. The metal itself undergoes some transformation during this initial-breakin period. Proper break in processes are usually to drive through a normal rev range, varying revs a lot, but not over-revving for about 3000km. The first oil change is done early. I'd suggest a regular oil for first change then synth after that.
You DO NOT need to buy Mobil 1 Synthetic, unless you want to support Exxon. ATG A1 Synthetic, Amsoil/Castrol/Valvoline/Advance Auto synthetic are just as good. What Exxon do not want you to know. An ATG tests: After 5,000 (cars with 150K) Engines were cut, no improvement vs many using regular cheap oil when changing at 4,000.
Another sales bullshit advertisment,God the way these guy's are talking on the video you would think they are desperate to sell a can of it,And that creepy dude just freaked me out :) I wonder if he has blinked yet? Finally i agree with Hmoob Vaaj above,Castrol GTX is fine oil,It is known as "The Engines Choice" at a good price.
Europeans just shake their heads over here in Canada. 15.000 km (almost 10k miles) in between oil changes has been the norm over there for I don't know how long (40 years?). What is it with 3 oil changes a year over here?!? Use synthetic oil and a decent filter and don't stop for oil changes all the time! Of course you won't see a difference between regular oil and synthetic oil if you change the oil ever 3 or 4 months! The difference is that you don't HAVE to change the oil as much. Not necessarily a performance improvement or less wear...
***** Well, 15K to 25K is good, but the filter needs to be replaced lot sooner than that. Many of my friends own plains & they don't change the synthetic oil, just the filter.
***** Too bad they don't make a good filter that will last as long as this oil. By the time I take out the filter on my ATG Aero T-Rex Kim X, I might as well replace the oil. Then use the used oil for my 2014 Corvette.
pretty sure the Old school castrol R was a extract of the castor bean but I am not positive its been forever since I have seen that product back in the day we used it for trials riding small 2 stroke engines it had good lubricity and lasted well while not being beat to death on the back woods tracks and hills
synthetic oils don't cause leaks? This is pure nonsense. Older cars have seals that have crud buildup in them. I guarantee you if you use anall synthetic motor oil in a car that has over 150,000 miles though you been running fine with no leaks and you use synthetic it will begin to leak. I have a saab 900 never had any leaks started using synthetic and next day was leaking all over the back the engine and front of the engine. I switched back the leak is completely gone. synthetic oils have a higher flow rate and will flow through small seams and minor seal imperfections they will not leak with conventional oil. this is not a video about the myths of synthetic oil it is a mobile one commercial!
That's the truth, I've been working with engines for ? years(40+) Owners don't care, as long as it runs it's 'fine' I have experience of 'synthetic' oils being too slippery though and not 'playing nice' with clutch on many motorcycles. Using Synthetic oils is often a 'performance upgrade'
leafmixer ... So you are saying that your faulty seals that did not leak with thicker oil and sludge but began to leak with better flowing oil ?? That is what you said.
zeke man depends on if your changing your oil at every 3000-5000 miles which most people arent. synthetics are good for cars under heavy loads like towing, hard acceleration, etc. for a majority of people however, synthetics arent beneficial
zeke man actually there are few conventional oils anymore andcdue to ZZZP and Phosphorous being removed deemed the nesessity to add synthetic additice hence the new nomenclature synthetic blend. Synthetics are better. If you switch to synthetics they do run cooler, pump easier and reduce wear better. And also if you pay attention to oil level, regardless of brand or type see when it start using oil. when it get quart low check mileage left on severe use make recommendations, add qt, then see if you make it to severe use mileage mark if not after it starts that second qt of burnt oil that would be good mileage to note then back up to even number mileage. But generally i dont like changing intervals. Had a 350 sbc was all standard and usec synthetic for many miles. buddy pulled it down after it sat under my trailer for many years, no wear. surface rust from damp but no wearcridge, bearing still looked new.
I use Mobil 1 on my new Triumph Bonneville, and like it...used it on a vintage Bonneville which hadn't leaked (significantly) before, began leaking like a sieve. Switched back to Castrol and the leaking stopped. When they say it's ok for old or high mileage cars, understand this stuff will find it's way through any tiny crevice (!)
of course your not going to say anything bad about your oil, your people are the ones supposedly saying these are myths. not saying synthetic oil are not good, but i wouldnt put them in my high mileage cars. i have has leaks become larger, noises get louder, no thanks. This is on high mielage cars ofcourse. this is my personal experience. mobil one is a great oil, not saying its not, i just wouldnt use it on my high mileage vehicle from previous experiences. i would use there regular oil.
i agree.. you always should check the source of the info. provided,reguarding the findings of the product study.. especially if you want an unbiased , accurate representation of the products true performance characteristics... evry1 is going to make their own product come out on top sumhow
Raul Romo they make high mileage synthetic. The high mileage formula will help seals that are worn. It swells them. Check out Pat Goss Motorweek on RUclips abut high mileage oils
A machinist friend of mine told me that if he puts a piece of round stock in his lathe that has had synthetic oil on it, he has trouble keeping it from slipping in the jaws of the chuck.
Ah yes, the sweet of Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. I recently did a re-build on my YFZ450R and it seems to consume less oil. Perhaps that's a result of the re-build. Perhaps that's because Mobil 1 is awesome. All I know is that on tear-down, the engine internals were perfectly clean. Yum. Perfect as-cast finish.
I have a question, so 5 people on this bla bal telling me how great is a synthetic oil - no facts are why, nothing to compare to, no stress test- just putting convincing faces, especially that girl, that part must be for the ladies - they forgot to put afo-america to convince black population too. And why on the world I have to pay 3 times the price if my car can go without synthetic oil and have 300K miles on the engine? on the other hand my new car needs 0-20 which only synthetic form because engine is build with 1/32 tolerance - so the bottom line if your engine not require synthetic - DO not waist your money.
I used to get hyped up by oil, especially synthetic. Had used Shell Helix Ultra and such. There's no denying that synthetic oil from *reputable* companies is better than ordinary mineral oil. However, this shouldn't be taken to mean mineral oils are `inferior'. Especially when they meet the latest API SN specifications. Even SM and also SL have the right additives to do the job in protecting your engine. These aren't the same mineral oils as from the 80's and earlier. The quality has improved significantly since then. If you say you engine is clean even after 200,000 miles after using synthetic, well, it will be just as clean with good quality mineral. The key is in regular oil changes. Synthetic has the advantage here where you can get higher mileage before the oil deteriorates. If your car's manufacturer doesn't insist on synthetic, and synthetic only, good quality mineral oil from the likes of Pennzoil, Castrol, Shell, Mobil etc. will be just fine.
Mat Cendana one of my car 2009 needs 0-20 synthetic per manufacturer spec. My other car use 10-30 and it have no need for synthetic - that engine build in such a spec that I can probably stuff it with a bananas in case of an emergency situations - it will run.
Synthetic oil IS better because it........ 1. Lets your engine run slightly cooler because there's less friction. 2, Less engine wear over time because there's less friction. 3. Slightly better MPG because there's less friction. 4. Lets your engine burn cleaner so less carbon buildup. 5. Longer change intervals because synthetics take longer to break down. I've talked to a lot of mechanics that have torn down engines after 200,000 miles or so that have run Full Synthetics for the life of the motor and they are VERY clean inside. There ARE advantages to Synthetics.
455Transam true , but if my 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser can run on organic oil and every 5000 miles I spend only $25 compare to my 2009 Land Cruiser that requires synthetic and every 5000 miles I spend $100 - why is the world I will go synthetic for my older car and waist $70?
The car is a 2004 impala ss and my mother drives 1500 miles a week 3 to 4 hours a day of highway driving 7 days a week. My mother is 45 and Is capable of taking care of herself, but apatently not her vehicle. I should have gutted the filter to see its condition but I didn't think about that.
Blah, blah blah... just another argument over less filling, tastes great, Chevy vs Ford, Coke vs Pepsi, Mobil 1 vs Royal Purple, boxers vs briefs... you know what, opinions are like assholes, every single person has one and every single person talks out of it to try and prove their point, where it doesn't matter. Use what you like, life is too short to argue the stupid things in life that really don't matter in the end. The above video is a marketing tool, it is simply created to separate you from your money, it isn't about the purpose of life.
sorry, i don't work for Mobil Exxon and I used Mobil1 in different European cars. Old and new, engines developed in the '70s and '90s. Every time I use Mobil1 i notice an average fuel saving from 5% till 10%. In gasoline as in Diesel engines. oilchanges between 10 and 20K miles and fuelsavings from the first till the last mile. If I use an other brand i don't get these savings. So believe it or not, but don't tell us what you think its true!!!
Take it from me, a guy from Alaska. Mobil 1 is hands down THE best oil on the market. In a pour test at -40 (that's forty below zero) Mobil 1 poured the best out of Pennzoil, Valvoline, and Quaker State and Castrol. In fact, the Mobil 1 still poured like it was allergic to the bottle. Im a customer for life.
James Marshall I buy walmarts five qt jug for eleven bucks , works great , and I change my oil about every seven thousand miles just like the manual says . saves money and time ,
I had a 318 that didn't leak a drop of anything until I put 200 miles on that synthetic crap, out went the rear seal first. I have a 99 E350 with a 5.4 and 146,000 miles and leaks nothing, won't be changing from my conventional Havoline 10W30 David Rahfeldt
Did you watch the video? One of their points was the exact opposite. I've also done it myself on friends/family's vehicles. I haven't seen, personally, one vehicle leak after changing to synthetic.
it could be the engine design,as well as the materials that was used in the engine. back in the 50s to the late 70s,gasket materials were made from natural cork and rubber. which would deteriorate with age as well as using synthetic oils and as a result, removes the sludge from the gasket materials and creates a leak.
+Michael Lutz I do not aware Diesel need to replace engine oil more frequent. In fact, I have been told commercial truck perform engine oil replacement on condition. They change oil till the oil fell out of manufacture spec. In regards to oil change interval is shorter than Europe, true you don't need Edmonton interval everywhere across NA; but how will a manufacture know what the owner will take the car tomorrow or next month. So the manufacture play it save, and reduce the change interval. If a person know what he is doing, he can stretch the change interval.
I ran Mobile 1 in my 86 vette up to 377000 miles until it blew a head gasket. There was no oil burning and parts looked carmel in color when it was torn down.
Have been a mobil 1 user for many years in my "newer" cars. Have to agree with the comments elsewhere not a good idea in older cars. Used mobil 15w50 in two of my collector cars, and both eventually leaked, diagnosed by my mechanic as the seals will eventually shrink. Combined with lower viscosity when cold, changed back to "regular", no more leaks!
I have a 2007 Expedition and at 106,000 miles, I switched to Mobil 1. The engine was dry but after 100 miles, it is now leaking from the oil pan gasket. It is 4WD, so removing the pan to replace the gasket is quite a procedure. I torqued all the bolts and they were right on.
Yeah, synthetics don't cause leaks, they just show through previously existing ones that conventional wouldn't get through easily. And torquing your bolts on the pan doesn't stop a leak. You could have a bad seal on a main or you could have had excess crank case pressure that caused a blow out of the pan gasket.
Mobil 1 is a very good oil. I bought my brother a Corvette, and the engine started to overheat when he got an oil change with just normal oil. I told him that the LT1 engine was designed to run on Mobil1. He had this put in, and engine operating temperature ran much cooler and completely stopped overheating. - In any car this should lengthen the engine life and help guard against head gasket failures.
lt1 doesn't really over heat unless you cooling system problem, they run hot because of bad fan programming design! the first fan come on at 210 or 220,and second fan comes at 225 that's why your gauge goes 3/4 up before cooling fan start kicking even though your factory thermostat is 180 degree you can put 160 thermostat and reprogram the computer to kick sooner like I did and your gauge never goes pass the 1/4 mark
Even if a car owner runs synthetic motor oil in their vehicle it is important to follow the recommended oil change intervals and the manufacture recommended oil viscosity. Please also make SURE that the engine is REGULARLY checked for seal leaks and REGULARLY have the oil topped off to the full mark. When the engine oil becomes a cup or a quart low even if synthetic oil is being used the oil is now being worked under a very high duty cycle which may lead to a lubrication failure.
YES! The guy that started Ams Oil was a USAF Pilot. He knew about synthetic oil, but he also knew that to put it in a car, it needed an Additive Package.
As a jet fighter squadron commander, Lieutenant Colonel Albert J. Amatuzio had opportunity to witness synthetic lubricants in action. Amatuzio began conducting research in the early 1960s. He soon developed and sold commercially available synthetic oils under a variety of names. The milestone came in 1972 when AMSOIL became the first synthetic motor oil in the world to meet American Petroleum Institute service requirements. [1]
During the 70's and 80's, I remember being told you can't mix oils with different weights or mix multi weight oil with straight weight oil. A guy recently told me he intentionally put 5 different weights of oil in his big block Chevelle just to prove em wrong. Never had a problem.
I have used Mobile 1 for many years. However, I don't put a lot of miles on my "weekend" car. Is there a time limit for the oil to changed with few miles of usage?
I would say it depends on how far you drive each time. If it is a short drive each time the engine doesn’t have enough time to heat up and burn off the moisture accumulation. If it’s longer drive time you could get away with longer oil change intervals if it was highway driving.
It did not start burning off at "X" miles I assure you. It was burning off at the same rate all along. However switching to a synthetic like M1 (or any syn) after years of conventional can see initial consumption until a new cylinder glaze is created. Other reasons for more consumption switching to syn is the the issues of older engines. A little looser, has some leaks, etc. Theat the reason I use the high mileage version of M1. I could not run a standard syn, would leak.
I've been a fan of synthetic ever since I had an oil filter fail due to mfg defect. I lost 4 quarts in a moment. drove a mile on an empty crankcase to a Trak Auto and spun on a new filter and 4 quarts of Mobil1 and was on my way without issue.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
My mother let her car go 30,000 miles with Mobil 1 with no filter or oil changes. I was upset at her to say the least but when I found out and changed it that day I was amazed the oil still flowed out smoothly with no sludgy lumps. Engine is still running strong to this day.
This is what I use in my 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R turbo engine. 334,000 miles and counting fast. ;) I have had my oil tested at a laboratory after I changed it and now change my oil every 10,000 miles.
It's Volvo OEM, at least it used to be back then :)
2006 Camry 2.4 liter....nothing has been touched in engine or transmission....425k miles ...since the beginning 5w30 extended 15k/20k mile Mobil one....I change it every 10k...
I just want Jessica keep talking about oil and whatever, you are the best oil specialist, Jessica!
The music makes me want to apply my used oil as war paint and go running into the woods.
+Steven Feduk With your weapons being one of those toothed "universal" oil filter wrenches, an' a loose jawed adjustable wrench, eh???☺
lmao..
So true!!
You too?
+Steven Feduk That was so funny! It really cracked me up! Ha ha ha!
News flash, Mobil 1 employees recommend Mobil 1 oil !
who'd have thought it
Imagine that,....
lol at least royal purple admits on their myth busting page that synthetic can actually get through cylinder wear and old seals that conventional may not be able to
Oil engineers are the only persons qualified to speak about the qualities of oils, mechanics are not and their videos are useless. Also, the video speaks about "synthetic oils" not just Mobil one.
Robin Sattahip so you are saying the people in the video are qualified engineers right?
I've been using mobil 1 since the 80s. Never had an engine problem or the need to change a timing chain. Of course, you do need to change your oil.
I bought a 2000 5.3 silverado with 698000 miles on it! The engine still ran good and had never had any serious problems. The truck was on its third rear end and second transmission and the suspension was worn out but the motor was original! astonished by the rediculous milage that this engine had survived, i asked the man that sold me the truck which oil he used. He said he only uses mobol 1. Ive never used any other oil sence.
Ah those good ole weekend drives around the entire planet.
I inject mobile 1 into my knee to make it new again
that one made my day :D
That is funny!
Bigbore400cc hybrid human/giraffe lmao
Bigbore400cc I know an old timer who used to spray WD 40 on his elbows & knees.
you are fuck ass clown
My Uncle worked for Exxon and he said Doug (2:40) is a Cyborg...
+ScoutCrafter He doesn't even blink...
Remember Max headroom? Its his uncle!
Looks like a serial killer
Mobil 1 is an awesome product. Great to see the people behind it.
Doug Neckman doesn't blink for 22 secs (2:37)
Lol
AnonimusNauta hahaha this made my day that was a good laugh
Before i saw your comment I decided to state that he looks like he could literally explode at any moment.
He is not human!
th a t mother looks like a alien
I like Mobil 1 but you are a little misleading on one point synthetic oil can make leaks worse or can leak where a conv oil does not I agree it does not damage seals but the smaller molecules will leak past things that conv oil would never get by as a 25 year master tech. I see this happen all the time a higher mileage engine is switched to SYNC. oil and it starts leaking not because the oil is damaging the seals like most people think but because the seals are already weak if you have some small oil leaks with conv oil they will get worse with sync. oil
Its the way he worded it. But I do not think it will make the seals worse just leak by the seals easier then non synthetic will.
The worst case scenario on this is an air-cooled engine with the looser tolerances. Air cooled Porsche etc.
You guys are all wrong. It doesn't have to do with smaller molecules lol. What happens is when you have a car (using conventional) with bad gaskets in it and is overdue for being resealed the "slow" leaks carry sludge deposits almost like using stop leak lol. Full synthetic oils have a massive amount of detergents in them that clean away that sludge that has been holding that old bad gasket leak. So, if you have good gaskets it wont cause a leak. But if you (or the previous owner) haven't been taking care of your car, and decide to use synthetic, you will have leaks.
HMMM may be some truth to that however for you to say that "You guys are all wrong" umm I call BS I decided to look at detergent levels in conv vs sny. not really allot of difference dude so I have to disagree. . So if you have a leak and you put in an oil with molecules that are 4 to 5 times smaller how is it that the leaks won't get worse? interested to see how you will spin this
Myvintageiron7512
hey man its it cool if my car has aver 88k and i want to change to synthetic...can you give some advice thanks
In my opinion Mobil 1 15w50 is the only oil from the Mobil 1 range suited for classic cars because it has around 1200ppm of ZDDP which is vital for flat tappet cams , wrist pins , and bearings
+Capri Driver Thank you, good to know. Running the "Comp Cam" breakin oil in my '65 SS 383 w/N+L79H Comp Cam, flat tappet. Was going to run regular "Comp Cam" oil afterwards, always have liked Mobil 1. Will monitor M1 ZDDP with a the oil samples, I take, during and after breakin. Of course, no substitute for "molybdenum graphite" spray and then cam lube during assembly, and a filter only change IMMEDIATELY after first 1/2 hr of cam breakin @ 2000.
Sounds like you know! Any thought's welcomed.
"Wheels Up"
Bill
i found out that M1 15w50 since now it's switched to API SN It has about 1000 to 1100 ppm but this is till fine, another great oil is Valvoline VR1, It has 1300ppm and can be founds cheaply and is available in conventional and synthetic form, it's also available in tons of viscosities : 20w50, 10w30, 5w50, 10w60, and Straight 30,40,50 and 60
Old Fords Don't die ... go to the API website and lean about viscosity. Youll,stop using that heavy oil that ups your oil pressure to the gauge, lowers it to the bearings, cuts flow in half, and takes a long time to get to 210* so the viscosity can flow to you bearings. Think... you dont see long distance racers using heavy oil. Why?? Use a 5 or 10 base oil and add ZDDP to it... if you dont have cats.
15/50 m1 is what i run. It is the best for older engines. Not nearly as thick as old 20/50 i ran before synthetics came around. Flow rates are much better with synthetics.
@@teresarichey6260 The zinc thing is a myth. You would have lessened your chances of wiping a cam by using M1 full synthetic for break in. People use synthetic oil in their classic cars without issues.
You are EXACTLY right. I have been using Mobil 1 for over 20 years. I have a 1990 crown vic with over 268,00 miles and it doesn't leak either.Another little test I did, I duct taped together a quart of Valvoline,Havoline,Pennzoil,Moblie 1 .Put them in the chest freezer and left for 10 days. Left the oil taped together, took cap off each one, turned upside the ONLY one to pour out easily was the Mobil1. Oil being able to flow during cold weather protects engine during cold weather start ups.
No, synthetic oil doesn't CAUSE leaks, but they should have mentioned that older cars MAY leak when using synthetic oil when it won't with petroleum oil because the molecules are smaller, so the oil will leak through the gaps that do exist when regular petroleum oil, with its bigger molecules, cannot fit through.
+Thomas Maresh My experience with MR2. Put in synthetic and crank seals leaked.
+fly bobbie Its from the extra detergents put into the oil, it cleans the varnishing left behind from conventional oil. I use Royal Purple, have for the last 17yrs. all my engines look new inside.. every car will leak with time, just replace the leaking seals.
+Thomas Maresh I can confirm. I had a 1988 4 cylinder volvo. When using synthetic oil, it leaked from many locations. Synthetic is just runnier compared to regular oils. Also, I had to use a heavier weight oil to minimize the seal leaks.
She hinted at stepping up to a heavier weight
No.. you already had small leak. The synthetic just showed the leak
i'm guessing everyone else clicked on the this vid because of the hot girl thumbnail lol... once again led astray haha
yup
Yep
The hot girl you've mentioned is actually a research engineer and appears on the film at 1:45
over your head lol
*BARF*
Myth #4 can be fact. I bought an old Cherokee with a small oil leak. I changed to synthetic and it became a gusher. I've heard & read similar from many others.
I am ASE (Automotive Society of Engineers) Certified, through engineering courses, not just a limited key point knowledge required to pass a test at a shop. Meaning had to learn the engineering of oils and the molecular make-up of all fluids concerning automotive! Other than the obvious beneficial additives synthetic offers and the higher price, synthetic oils do not expand seals as the old non-synthetic oils do, so the only downfall would be oil leaking past old worn seals, however, just adding 1 quart of non syn will give the expansion rate an old seal may require if you want to run syn in a high-mileage engine, as long as they are both API (American Petroleum institute) approved and of the same viscosity (resistance to flow), one can mix all you want! The difference between brands has to do with where the oil came from; Texas oil such as GTX has less paraphins as crude oil vs east coast derived oils, so less refinement from Texas oils needed! I know several that are ASE certified through a shop and have no clue of the engineering of the majority of the vast knowledge involved through the automotive, especially the electrical. Next time you see an ASE patch, ask what a pull down circuit is (to truly understand one must understand the molecular make up of electron flow), which one will not learn through a shop to become certified. It is when a circuit is ground side switched, typically low current applications, such as computerized controlled actuators, like injectors. Reason being, is less chance of voltage spike, less chance of frying a delicate circuit, when connected from the ground side, the voltage of the hot wire is 12v until the ground side of the load is connected, dropping the voltage in the line to near zero because grounding the load has opened, in essence, the electron damn, so the (pressure) voltage drops, the voltage is “pulled down” being used by the load, hence, “pull down circuit”. Because electrons flow from Negative to Positive, less chance of electrons jumping (with positive side switching, “Pull UP Circuits”, electrons will jump greater distance, equals greater voltage spike), exactly why Negative on the Battery is disconnected first and hooked up last, Less chance of electron jump, equals smaller spark, equals less chance of explosion! Reason I state this, is that if you have concerns talk to a Tech ASE certified through a college. Essentially, a dictionary vs encyclopedia. There is so much dis-info out there! Rarely do I hear the true concern as to why or why not, such as "oil may leak because the old seals are not being expanded any more, makes me wonder if any in this video even know! Also, Seek Jesus and Repent (turn from living in sin), please!
Engines generally don't wear out. They are neglected to death or abused. The cooling system is the cause of most engine death. Most vehicles don't get repaired when they break anymore. That's when I get it. Or it ends in the salvage yard. You don't have to be religious about maintenance but it doesn't hurt. Change hoses and belts, flush and replace coolant. You'll get tired of the car before it wears out. Use the oil of your choice, change it at manufacturers recommended mileage. Moisture is the real enemy of an engine. Oil changes can be extended on highway cars that get hot enough to boil off the water from condensation. Granny's car should have more frequent oil changes because they don't get hot on short hauls to the hair dresser but they look good. Change the coolant and hoses!
thanks for the tips.
You're right, preventative maintenance is what is required, most people can't be arsed though until something breaks and then they moan at the bill. Saying that most garages do fuck all on a service, bare minimum.
Mobil One all year round. A good quality filter. Make sure your fuel filter is always in good shape. You will get well over 200,000 miles.
Bill still has the same rug as 30 years ago.
yeah and a bad one at that
...but it's synthetic hair - it should be better!
*****
Got it. I want some of that synthetic hair.
I have proven it on 3 cars that didn't leak before when I bought them and leaked afterward. Nothing too major usually, as you say, it's not due to ruining seals but because it is just a lot more able to find a way out than regular oil.
NASCAR uses Mobil 1. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me.
oh so you must drive a stock car to work. Makes sense.
@@southwestxnorthwest "A stock car, in the original sense of the term, is an automobile that has not been modified from its original factory configuration." Makes sense to me.
The Mobil 1 that racers use has no detergents and is Group 4/5. It's not sold to the public.
I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. Mobil 1 was used a year and a half ago. for one year. The piston oil ring stuck in three of the four cylinders and the oil consumption went from 1 quart to 3.5 quarts in 5000 miles. I had to go back to conventional oil use a strong additive to clean the ring with 3 cans and the consumption went back to almost normal and with now 4 more oil changes the last of the carbon has been removed. The power output is back to normal with the vehicle now at 312k miles. hope 450k
Caliann Bogovic is at 2:09.
stereorail she can pull out my dipstick and check my fluids anytime
I use KY and it's a really helping the engine in lubrication.
😂😂😂😂😭
Odd that they didn't mention ZDDP in that old truck.
What i think. You tried M1 on an older engine that ran conventional for years and experienced oil consumption. Common occurrence. as stated above may go away after a while, may not. But its not M1 specific, its the engine. Some can't run synthetics. Old, loose, worn a bit. The thicker slower flowing dirty conventional oil may be what you need to run if adding oil bothers you. BTW, adding oil is not necessarily a bad thing. Replenishment with fresh oil keeps the oil stronger and cleaner.
How did you guys make that damn drum roll music 30 times louder than the volume of your talking? It's VERY irritating!
My dad uses Mobil 1 full Syn. I prefer Valvoline Max Life Syn Blend. I've got in mine and my wife's vehicles and both run great!
I've been using Mobil 1 oil exclusively in all my cars since 1983. Let me tell you a story. In 1986 I was driving my 1978 GMC Vandura with 80,000 miles on it down the freeway on vacation hundreds of miles from my home when I noticed the oil gauge wasn't working. I drove another 8 miles to finally get to a gas station and check my oil just to make sure. There wasn't a drop of oil in the crank case. The PCV valve had clogged and had caused a manifold gasket to blow and pump all 5 quarts of Mobil 1 out of the engine. I yanked the PCV valve, filled it with 5 new quarts of Mobil 1 and drove it home. Years later and with 140,000 miles on the motor I finally sold that van and it still never used a drop of oil. I have no idea how many miles I drove before I noticed the oil gauge not working. It could have been for hundreds of miles.
Now I have a 1990 Infiniti M30 that's been my only car since I bought it in 1994. I've had it for 21 years now. That's right. It doesn't use a drop of oil and it passes smog tests in Southern California like it was brand spanking new. The smog guys can never believe it. I've done no repairs at all to this car in 21 years....and I've only changed the oil every 25,000 miles. So.....
I'm also a retired aerospace mechanic. You know what every jet engine uses for oil? It's not Mobil 1, but it is a synthetic Mobil oil just like Mobil 1 but much thinner.
So......ya, Mobil 1 is like the one thing that has really proven itself to me in my life.
Yokohama tires used to be pretty good too.
Bullshit, this completely defies physics. There is such a thing as "blow-by", where oil will escape piston rings, every single automobile and internal combustion engine ever produced has it. Blow-by is by design actually.
You say no oil is burned, that's complete bullshit. In fact the PCV valve is designed to let oil blow-by gasses escape and back into the intake manifold. You say no oil is burned, but as a matter of fact with synthetic oil more will slide past the piston rings.
The key to maintaining your engine is regular maintenance and what the manufacturer recommends, not what a petroleum company recommends.
***** Actually, synthetic oil is no more prone to sliding past the rings than conventional oil, if they are of the same viscosity.
Secondly, synthetic oil has a much higher burn temperature, and that's why it lasts so much longer and protects better than conventional oil.
I haven't changed the oil in my Infiniti in 5 years and it's running perfect. I guess I should change it, but I live in the high desert and only drive it 600 miles a year. I think I have the last running M30 in California. I never see these cars on the road anymore.
I use M1 on my 2004 Tacoma, so I am not biased. Yes, Synthetic motor oil does have a higher slide rate than conventional oil, it is designed this way. I've spoken to ASE certified mechanics, even my own regular shop confirmed this. I'm not trying to convince you to stop using it, what I am saying is, yes you do burn oil no matter what you think.
***** Did I say it doesn't burn? I said it has a much higher burn temperature. This is the real reason the rings last longer, because it isn't burning nearly as easily as conventional oils. This one fact is why rings and valve guides last longer with synthetics. It's not because it's slipperier. It's because it's not turning into carbon as quickly.
Okay, I did say that my engines never used a drop of oil, but don't be such a literalist. The truth is that I often drove 20,000 miles and didn't need to add oil. I'm not actually counting drops.
1971SuperLead Agreed... This is the thing about Mobil 1 so many people have used it for years - have positive results - I disassembled a car with about 250000 run on Mobil 1 and the tolerances and condition was amazing like a 40k engine. I have stripped engines ran on cheap oil and cant measure tolerances because they are so gummed up and don't really need to anyway because there so clearly miles out. Im not going to listen to anyone that says Castrol GTX et al is as good as Mobil 1. I know it is not. Now big brand synthetic may be as good as Mobil 1 but it will be a similar price anyway, so why not stick with Mobil1 !? A lot of knocking I have seen of Mobil 1 can be put down to someone trying to flog their product. Now if your old banger is only going to be thrashed around for a few years stick rubbish in but I have definitely seen a 15% increase in economy with Mobil1 so arguably it pays for itself.
My car has 282,000 miles on it now. It has never had anything but Mobil 1. Still gets me to work everyday. My change interval is between 6 to 9000 miles. My 1974 Simplicity tractor gets nothing but Mobil 1 15-50 weight. I mow 2 to 5 acres every week in the summer. Never had a wrench on it. This oil is worth every penny it cost.
wolfeden46939 ... for decades we drain the cars and trucks and put that old Mob1 in the old tractors.
I've only used Mobil-1 Synthetic once. Tried it in my 150,000 mile Isuzu Trooper.
Immediately after changing the oil and filter I heard something like valve chattering.
Drove only a few hundred miles and drained the Mobil-1 and put in conventional oil. Engine was quieter but not completely quiet until later I revved the Engine while idling to 5,000 rpms. Now quiet. That might have been a coincidence. Maybe someday I'll try Mobil-1 again but that was my experience with it.
agreeded!!!
I had exactly the opposite experience. When i bought my 6 year old ford XR5 turbo (5 cylinder twin cam turbo) i had it serviced and put in some top shelf mobile 1 0w40 ultimate all round performance oil. It immediately changed for the better. I dont know what oil was in it before, but now it starts smoother, quieter and runs brilliantly. I noticed the difference straight away.
if you fill up with a 0W30 and your engine needs a 10W40 or more, you can certainly hear the hydr valve rockers. So stick to the minimum specs and don't blame the oil.
If I recall correctly, it was 10W30 Mobil-1 Oil that I purchased at Costco.
All's i can tell you guys is, oils aint oils. Ive seen experiements where different brands of oil are chilled to the same temp and then poured, all the same rating 0w-40 and they all poured at different speeds. The mobil 1 poured like normal. most of the others barely moved at all. They are SUPPOSED to be the same.
The other thing is the ingredients. its not just the viscosity ratings. Film strength, clensing ability and temperature and chemical resistance to breakdown are all important. I dont skimp on oil after lengthy conversations with mechanical engineers at work.
CAVEAT: there is an element of truth in the causing leaks issue. IF your car was older and IF you had sludge THEN IF the oil cleans up the crude/sludge from the crevices THEN you could develop leaks. Think of the crud like "platelets." This is also true if you use an internal engine cleaner. In addition the ability of synthetics to flow through narrow spaces at a colder temp is greater. Think of this as thinner blood. In a compromised engine it could leak out or blow by the rings faster. Hence the reputation in "older" and high mileage engines. I have had this happen to me.
I wonder if the guy who did myth #4 had a giraffe for a dad. He has the longest neck i've ever seen!
Lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I put 336,000 miles on my 1998 Volvo S70. I changed my oil every 5k and used whatever was on sale, full synthetic, blended or just plain oil. The key is to change your oil, but I do believe that your engine will be cleaner with full synthetic. That is proven.
thanks for this info!!! I heard the first myth before and thought it was true because it was explained to me that if you switch regular oil in high mileage cars around 50,000 to synthetic, parts would become looser and may cause breakdowns? It has to do with the regular oil being thicker between the parts and the synthetic oil is thinner between part. I can't remember but I think a mechanic told me this back in the early days of synthetic oils.
Myth#4 guy looks like he's seen a ghost. Doesn't blink even once.
Exactly my comment before reading your post! He is ready for Halloween without a mask!
Haha
meth
Myth #6. Necks can not be longer and wider than the heads which they support.
The music gets annoying after awhile.
i buy mobil 1 at wal mart in tenn for $26.00 reg mobil oil i thank it is $ 21.00 . i have a 1990 chev p u with 215000 miles on it runs like new i have always have used mobil in it . and i will always will
Myth Number 4, Synthetic oil causes leaks. I agree that it doesn't but, that guy scares me. He is scarier than clowns behaving badly. I think he is not what he is. His body is from an alien pod..........
..OMG! He doesn't blink!..........Why so serious?
actually if your older car has small oil leaks using conventional oil, switching to synthetic will cause it to leak more
hoplophobiadoc LMAO I had to go back in the video he doesnt blink lmao I needed that one thk u hehe.
On Myth No.4,....... is that guy from Area 51 ?
okay
Yes. The sludge from conventional oils builds up in these areas reducing the oil loss. Mobil 1 will eventually remove the sludge allowing more of the oil to seep out. If there is a way out, Mobil 1 will find it. If all of your seals and gaskets are in good shape, they won't leak.
I was backing up your argument with my experiences. My car's manufacturer does not suggest anything less than 98 octane... yes it is a performance vehicle.
Have you EVER wondered why they change the oil every 10k miles (pretty muich ONCE a year) in Europe? And it has been like that for a LOOONG time. It DOES work with the right oil and filter!
In Europe the average annual mileage is about half of what we do in North America. e.g., A Canadian's average annual mileage is around 25,000 km; In the UK, the average will be around 12,500 km/yr. We have a lot greater distances to travel than in small Euro countries, and besides that, we just drive everywhere anyway.
Bill Bunyack You still change the oil every 10k miles instead of 3-5k miles in Europe. So that's 2-3 times less oil changes no matter how much you drive.
More modern vehicles have longer service intervals. I suspect that the average vehicle age in Europe is lower since it becomes too expensive to keep an older vehicle on the road (i.e. punitive emissions laws, etc.). They also have more diesel engine cars. I'm not sure, but I think they may have longer oil change intervals? And, finally, the service intervals for a vehicle driven year round in places like Edmonton or northern Michigan are going to necessarily be shorter than if someone is driving in Brussels or London.
Bill Bunyack Diesel engines have rather shorter intervals because of the higher compression that pushes more emmisions into the oil but the difference is the oil and the filter they use. Excessive wear isn't an issue in Europe either. 200k miles is no problem at all. I actually haven't heard of problems with any internal "wear-parts". It's usually something else that can cause an engine failure like a broken water or oil pump, blown gasket...
I'm from Bavaria and you get temperatures like in NY there. Edmonton might get a little bit colder. But that doesn't mean that you need "Edmonton-intervals" for every state or province North America. I bet they have the same ones in Florida and California.
Royal Purple oil and Purolator Synthetic oil filters are the best you can buy. I have done plenty of research and the facts are undeniable.... I only buy the best and Mobil 1 will never make my list....
Would mobile one replace an engine with a brand new engine if somebody use their oil in the engine come apart
This is nothing more than a 4.29 minute commercial From Mobil Oil stating their product is good.. And of course it is!!! It states it right on the container -- just like all the other oils which government specs it had to pass.. The best oil is still a Straight -- 30weight in the summer ,, 20weight in the winter.. And Most ALL will last more than 6000 mile between changes.. (non det will not)
Our bigger air compressor was having trouble starting up at about 30 deg F with air in the tank. it was running conventional oil. We bled off the air and started it up to warm up the oil and let it run without any pressure until it was running normally and then let it build a head. One of the options for oil in the compressor is Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30. We drained the oil. The Mobil oil was stored in a heated area. We put the oil in and started up the compressor. It made weird sounds for a while and then started running normally. We have not tried starting the compressor with a full air tank yet when it is cold. Will report back later today.
30 years and still the best. You want proof it has not changed in 30 years. I use it in all my cars trucks and lawn equipment. Never have I had a problem. I buy it by the gallon. Use it on every service.
>Never had a problem.
That's because oil tends to lubricate.
I used to sell Mobil 1 starting in the 70s, and learned all I could about the product, once you know its benefits, it sells itself, and I still swear by it to this day, I have a brand new Ford EcoBoost, and it purrs like a kitten, and it will never have sludge build-up.
Busting myths about chocolate ice cream
Myth # 1 Chocolate ice cream is NOT the best flavor of ice cream.
Chocolate Ice Cream Producer (expert): False. Chocolate ice cream is the best.
I actually decided against using Mobile 1 because of this video. Furthermore, I'm planning on using this video in the classroom to teach research skills such as identifying propaganda techniques, bias and the importance of using neutral sources.
That a major oil company with almost unlimited resources would create a video that so patently and so deceitfully omits evidence from a professionally produced film is a strong indicator that there MUST be a reason for the avoidance of simple facts.
How ever - chocolate is a state of happiness :))
My favorit:
images.businessweek.com/ss/07/08/0824_icecream_war/source/9.htm
This is why if I ever have enough money ill use royal purple :)
Mark Thomas. Omits evidence? Simple facts? Which ones? Be specific. You said "in the classroom"? I bet you already know about propaganda techniques and bias. And your chocolate analogy is flawed because it starts and ends as an opinion.
Why are you so butthurt that they’re advertising a product, stfu
MOBIL 1 and AMSOIL are the two very best oils that I've ever found, adding performance, better mpg and a longer engine life.
How can you use Mobil 1 in the same sentence as Amsoil.? (one is petroleum and Amsoil is 100% Synthetic. The signature Series.
The myths aren't really answered. There was no explanations of why the myths are "absolutely false". They just keep throwing Mobil1 in your face without telling you why it is better.
anything beats regular oil ...wont use anything but Synthetic oil ..no matter who makes it ..flows in cold greater hot protection ,,wont stick your rings ...list goes on
I did notice that Bill said you "can" use "Mobil one" in old cars and high mileage cars. He did not say "should." I can do a lot things that I "should" not do.
There is nothing wrong with using a synthetic in a high mileage vehicle. Nothing at all. It will always protect the engine better than conventional oil.
There is a you tube video of Jay Leno saying that synthetic oil did damage to some of his older cars.
2:38 That guy does not blink at all..
+MrCheatreporter
He's running a high rpm motor and experiencing valve float. Good thing he's running Mobil 1 or he'd be stroked out.
Mobil 1 in the U.S. is almost all Group 3 now. It used to be a real synthetic oil.
I use Mobil 1 in my 1993 Ford Ranger. People laugh at me, say it's an unnecessary expense for an old POS. I'm going to run this engine to the end of its life, unlike so many of you that don't maintain a vehicle properly and have to replace it every few years.
If you want the best oil, Royal Purple film strength is over 100x higher than Mobil 1. That is no exaggeration.
@@lickdacat2 Doubt it.
Love this commercial about Mobil one
A bit of clarification. Synthetic oil does not cause leaks however if your seals are compromised and old they are more likely to leak if you switch to synthetic oil especially after having used conventional oil for years or decades. I have two Saabs. 1 has always used synthetic and still does great after 150,000 miles. The other used conventional for 200,000 miles and as soon as I switched to synthetic it leaked heavily. so I immediately switched back. No more leaks!
+leafmixer EXACTLY! I love it when someone is educated as to the real concerns!!! I read your post AFTER venting mine as to why you should or not run synthetic.
+leafmixer This true I ran Royal Purple in my CLS 63 AMG with 89k and the next thing I know it the seal on the crank case leaked all the oil out!!
I've switched several high mileage engines over to synthetic oils, and have never had a leak start, or an existing leak get worse.
Lee S.i have a 95 honda civic dx should i change to synthetic oil
that depends... ive seen 20k mile oil changes that look almost the same color oil as when it was put in... some engines just stay cleaner then others
I first used Mobil 1 in a four cylinder motorcycle in the mid 1970's. I've never had an engine fail with either regular or synthetic, but prefer synthetic for the obvious gains of longer life, with less degradation, and cold winter viscosity benefits. I expect Mobil to have a slight edge on technology but Castrol/Valvoline/Pennzoil can't be far behind. I actually can't understand the oddball alternative conspiracy types who're always drawn to the outlier brand just because they use an anti-Big Guy advertising ploy. Amzoil was one of the first, but Royal Purple, etc. follow the scheme I can't believe, as tiny companies without the research budgets to create the products they tout as magically superior. Smaller companies may have to buy base components from industrial petroleum suppliers, which may be fine, but never likely to be better. But of course youtubers are superior to those with degrees in petroleum engineering.
Well said, but I don't think it will change opinions much people believe what they want to believe until they're ready to change.
I use full synthetic in both my cars. Mobil 1 in my 2010 Mustang and I use Joe Gibbs racing oil in my '64 Nova. I'll never use anything else. What I like most about full synthetic is how long it lasts. The Mustang gets changed every 6 months, or 5000 miles. The racing oil gets changed every two years, or 5000 miles. My engines are always clean inside. Never had any sludge or build up! Oh, and always use a quality oil filter. I use K&N oil filters, or Mobil 1 filters.
Bullshit, synthetic oil has additives that clean the engine where build up is. Meaning when you run synthetic in an old car that might have a leak, it is more prone to leak even more because of it being cleaned out, as conventional oil almost acts as a shitty seal itself. So when they say it helps with seal leaks...... please explain.
agreeded!!!
It has nothing to do with the type of oil but rather the flow rate. If you change from a conventional oil to a synthetic you have to consider that - as you've stated already, synthetics have detergents that help keep an engine clean - a more different formula will be required. This is also why high-mileage oils exist in the first place. They tend to have either thicker blends or the oil has a higher surface tension/flow rate to keep it from oozing through seals.
There's also a matter of operating temperature. As the engine heats from cold crank to optimal operating temperature, the oil's viscosity changes, and if that same oil isn't rated for that operating temperature the results will be sub-optimal which leads to one of two issues; either the oil is too thin - leading to leaks - or the oil is too thick, leading to poor lubrication.
synthetic and conventional oils both have additive packages to combat the same problems.
Which is where multi-viscosity oils come in to play..
The rate of flow should depend almost entirely on the displacement of the oil pump stroke and engine speed as this is what drives the pump and not on viscosity or oil type conventional or synthetic.
Though conventional oil is more likely to have a marginally higher initial viscosity due its oil base .
This will result in higher pressure and losses at restriction points, and the extra energy required to pump will generate heat that will thin the oil and reduce it's viscosity.
All oils made that match reqirements specified for use by engine manufacturers are more than capable and are certainly of well matched for the the normal temperature range of engines .
I use Mobil1 5w-40 in my diesel power stroke and I have pictures of the inside of the gallon containers that it comes in and at the bottom I have a black crust and I have three containers like this. Who can I send these pictures too? It looks like a fine sandy black crust. It really scared me because that's in my engine now.
Mobll ! is good I have used it for 15 yrs.
A lot of new cars are shipped with synthetic oil nowadays... The factory oil is meant to provide LESS protection usually to allow rings to seat properly in the cylinders etc. The metal itself undergoes some transformation during this initial-breakin period. Proper break in processes are usually to drive through a normal rev range, varying revs a lot, but not over-revving for about 3000km. The first oil change is done early. I'd suggest a regular oil for first change then synth after that.
You DO NOT need to buy Mobil 1 Synthetic, unless you want to support Exxon.
ATG A1 Synthetic, Amsoil/Castrol/Valvoline/Advance Auto synthetic are just as good.
What Exxon do not want you to know.
An ATG tests:
After 5,000 (cars with 150K)
Engines were cut, no improvement vs many using regular cheap oil when changing at 4,000.
Hahahaha.. meaningless test.
Another sales bullshit advertisment,God the way these guy's are talking on the video you would think they are desperate to sell a can of it,And that creepy dude just freaked me out :) I wonder if he has blinked yet? Finally i agree with Hmoob Vaaj above,Castrol GTX is fine oil,It is known as "The Engines Choice" at a good price.
Europeans just shake their heads over here in Canada. 15.000 km (almost 10k miles) in between oil changes has been the norm over there for I don't know how long (40 years?). What is it with 3 oil changes a year over here?!? Use synthetic oil and a decent filter and don't stop for oil changes all the time!
Of course you won't see a difference between regular oil and synthetic oil if you change the oil ever 3 or 4 months! The difference is that you don't HAVE to change the oil as much. Not necessarily a performance improvement or less wear...
*****
Well, 15K to 25K is good, but the filter needs to be replaced lot sooner than that.
Many of my friends own plains & they don't change the synthetic oil, just the filter.
*****
Too bad they don't make a good filter that will last as long as this oil.
By the time I take out the filter on my ATG Aero T-Rex Kim X, I might as well replace the oil. Then use the used oil for my 2014 Corvette.
pretty sure the Old school castrol R was a extract of the castor bean but I am not positive its been forever since I have seen that product back in the day we used it for trials riding small 2 stroke engines it had good lubricity and lasted well while not being beat to death on the back woods tracks and hills
A 4 minute and 28 second video for 30 seconds of information.
165K on my 2007 Tahoe. Runs like the day I bought it. Only used Mobil1.
synthetic oils don't cause leaks? This is pure nonsense. Older cars have seals that have crud buildup in them. I guarantee you if you use anall synthetic motor oil in a car that has over 150,000 miles though you been running fine with no leaks and you use synthetic it will begin to leak. I have a saab 900 never had any leaks started using synthetic and next day was leaking all over the back the engine and front of the engine. I switched back the leak is completely gone. synthetic oils have a higher flow rate and will flow through small seams and minor seal imperfections they will not leak with conventional oil. this is not a video about the myths of synthetic oil it is a mobile one commercial!
I've switched many high mileage older engines to synthetic oils, haven't had one start leaking from it yet...
So BS on that one.
It does not create leaks, it just finds the problems that are already there that need to be fixed.
That's the truth, I've been working with engines for ? years(40+) Owners don't care, as long as it runs it's 'fine' I have experience of 'synthetic' oils being too slippery though and not 'playing nice' with clutch on many motorcycles. Using Synthetic oils is often a 'performance upgrade'
Never heard of this "mobile one" you speak of? Is it new?
leafmixer ... So you are saying that your faulty seals that did not leak with thicker oil and sludge but began to leak with better flowing oil ?? That is what you said.
That's a spectacular rug, how many miles on it?
All this is is one big advertisement
exactly ! just a promo for consumers to spend more money on un needed syn oil when cheeper conventional oil will do the same job .
zeke man
depends on if your changing your oil at every 3000-5000 miles which most people arent. synthetics are good for cars under heavy loads like towing, hard acceleration, etc. for a majority of people however, synthetics arent beneficial
zeke man actually there are few conventional oils anymore andcdue to ZZZP and Phosphorous being removed deemed the nesessity to add synthetic additice hence the new nomenclature synthetic blend. Synthetics are better. If you switch to synthetics they do run cooler, pump easier and reduce wear better. And also if you pay attention to oil level, regardless of brand or type see when it start using oil. when it get quart low check mileage left on severe use make recommendations, add qt, then see if you make it to severe use mileage mark if not after it starts that second qt of burnt oil that would be good mileage to note then back up to even number mileage. But generally i dont like changing intervals. Had a 350 sbc was all standard and usec synthetic for many miles. buddy pulled it down after it sat under my trailer for many years, no wear. surface rust from damp but no wearcridge, bearing still looked new.
I use Mobil 1 on my new Triumph Bonneville, and like it...used it on a vintage Bonneville which hadn't leaked (significantly) before, began leaking like a sieve. Switched back to Castrol and the leaking stopped. When they say it's ok for old or high mileage cars, understand this stuff will find it's way through any tiny crevice (!)
of course your not going to say anything bad about your oil, your people are the ones supposedly saying these are myths. not saying synthetic oil are not good, but i wouldnt put them in my high mileage cars. i have has leaks become larger, noises get louder, no thanks. This is on high mielage cars ofcourse. this is my personal experience. mobil one is a great oil, not saying its not, i just wouldnt use it on my high mileage vehicle from previous experiences. i would use there regular oil.
Are you aware of any independent lab test that show the significance ?.
i agree..
you always should check the source of the info. provided,reguarding the findings of the product study..
especially if you want an unbiased , accurate representation of the products true performance characteristics...
evry1 is going to make their own product come out on top sumhow
What do you consider high mileage ? .
>200,000 miles
Raul Romo they make high mileage synthetic. The high mileage formula will help seals that are worn. It swells them. Check out Pat Goss Motorweek on RUclips abut high mileage oils
A machinist friend of mine told me that if he puts a piece of round stock in his lathe that has had synthetic oil on it, he has trouble keeping it from slipping in the jaws of the chuck.
hot chick @ 2:09 :DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
Ah yes, the sweet of Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. I recently did a re-build on my YFZ450R and it seems to consume less oil. Perhaps that's a result of the re-build. Perhaps that's because Mobil 1 is awesome. All I know is that on tear-down, the engine internals were perfectly clean. Yum. Perfect as-cast finish.
I have a question, so 5 people on this bla bal telling me how great is a synthetic oil - no facts are why, nothing to compare to, no stress test- just putting convincing faces, especially that girl, that part must be for the ladies - they forgot to put afo-america to convince black population too.
And why on the world I have to pay 3 times the price if my car can go without synthetic oil and have 300K miles on the engine? on the other hand my new car needs 0-20 which only synthetic form because engine is build with 1/32 tolerance - so the bottom line if your engine not require synthetic - DO not waist your money.
I used to get hyped up by oil, especially synthetic. Had used Shell Helix Ultra and such. There's no denying that synthetic oil from *reputable* companies is better than ordinary mineral oil. However, this shouldn't be taken to mean mineral oils are `inferior'. Especially when they meet the latest API SN specifications. Even SM and also SL have the right additives to do the job in protecting your engine. These aren't the same mineral oils as from the 80's and earlier. The quality has improved significantly since then.
If you say you engine is clean even after 200,000 miles after using synthetic, well, it will be just as clean with good quality mineral. The key is in regular oil changes. Synthetic has the advantage here where you can get higher mileage before the oil deteriorates. If your car's manufacturer doesn't insist on synthetic, and synthetic only, good quality mineral oil from the likes of Pennzoil, Castrol, Shell, Mobil etc. will be just fine.
Caliann Bogovic...Pretty blond petroleum
engineer has a patent for certain type of lubricant~ 2011.
Mat Cendana one of my car 2009 needs 0-20 synthetic per manufacturer spec. My other car use 10-30 and it have no need for synthetic - that engine build in such a spec that I can probably stuff it with a bananas in case of an emergency situations - it will run.
Synthetic oil IS better because it........
1. Lets your engine run slightly cooler because there's less friction.
2, Less engine wear over time because there's less friction.
3. Slightly better MPG because there's less friction.
4. Lets your engine burn cleaner so less carbon buildup.
5. Longer change intervals because synthetics take longer to break down.
I've talked to a lot of mechanics that have torn down engines after 200,000 miles or so that have run Full Synthetics for the life of the motor and they are VERY clean inside. There ARE advantages to Synthetics.
455Transam true , but if my 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser can run on organic oil and every 5000 miles I spend only $25 compare to my 2009 Land Cruiser that requires synthetic and every 5000 miles I spend $100 - why is the world I will go synthetic for my older car and waist $70?
The car is a 2004 impala ss and my mother drives 1500 miles a week 3 to 4 hours a day of highway driving 7 days a week. My mother is 45 and Is capable of taking care of herself, but apatently not her vehicle. I should have gutted the filter to see its condition but I didn't think about that.
Blah, blah blah... just another argument over less filling, tastes great, Chevy vs Ford, Coke vs Pepsi, Mobil 1 vs Royal Purple, boxers vs briefs... you know what, opinions are like assholes, every single person has one and every single person talks out of it to try and prove their point, where it doesn't matter. Use what you like, life is too short to argue the stupid things in life that really don't matter in the end. The above video is a marketing tool, it is simply created to separate you from your money, it isn't about the purpose of life.
sorry, i don't work for Mobil Exxon and I used Mobil1 in different European cars. Old and new, engines developed in the '70s and '90s. Every time I use Mobil1 i notice an average fuel saving from 5% till 10%. In gasoline as in Diesel engines. oilchanges between 10 and 20K miles and fuelsavings from the first till the last mile. If I use an other brand i don't get these savings.
So believe it or not, but don't tell us what you think its true!!!
Take it from me, a guy from Alaska. Mobil 1 is hands down THE best oil on the market. In a pour test at -40 (that's forty below zero) Mobil 1 poured the best out of Pennzoil, Valvoline, and Quaker State and Castrol. In fact, the Mobil 1 still poured like it was allergic to the bottle. Im a customer for life.
ive got some property in russia i want to sell you also .
lol Is it mountainous?
zeke man hehe i wish i had it for myself .lol
James Marshall I buy walmarts five qt jug for eleven bucks , works great , and I change my oil about every seven thousand miles just like the manual says . saves money and time ,
go ahead, put it in a high mileage engine, it'll start leaking after a few 100 miles, I know this for a fact.
+Maples01 ABSOLUTELY TRUE ... PUT MOBIL 1 IN HIGH MILEAGE ONLY IF YOU WANT TO PULL YOUR ENGINE FOR A FULL SET OF NEW SEALS ...
I had a 318 that didn't leak a drop of anything until I put 200 miles on that synthetic crap, out went the rear seal first. I have a 99 E350 with a 5.4 and 146,000 miles and leaks nothing, won't be changing from my conventional Havoline 10W30
David Rahfeldt
Did you watch the video? One of their points was the exact opposite. I've also done it myself on friends/family's vehicles. I haven't seen, personally, one vehicle leak after changing to synthetic.
it could be the engine design,as well as the materials that was used in the engine. back in the 50s to the late 70s,gasket materials were made from natural cork and rubber. which would deteriorate with age as well as using synthetic oils and as a result, removes the sludge from the gasket materials and creates a leak.
I agree syn oil is better I use it in my cars
+Michael Lutz I do not aware Diesel need to replace engine oil more frequent. In fact, I have been told commercial truck perform engine oil replacement on condition. They change oil till the oil fell out of manufacture spec. In regards to oil change interval is shorter than Europe, true you don't need Edmonton interval everywhere across NA; but how will a manufacture know what the owner will take the car tomorrow or next month. So the manufacture play it save, and reduce the change interval. If a person know what he is doing, he can stretch the change interval.
I ran Mobile 1 in my 86 vette up to 377000 miles until it blew a head gasket. There was no oil burning and parts looked carmel in color when it was torn down.
Have been a mobil 1 user for many years in my "newer" cars. Have to agree with the comments elsewhere not a good idea in older cars. Used mobil 15w50 in two of my collector cars, and both eventually leaked, diagnosed by my mechanic as the seals will eventually shrink. Combined with lower viscosity when cold, changed back to "regular", no more leaks!
I have a 2007 Expedition and at 106,000 miles, I switched to Mobil 1. The engine was dry but after 100 miles, it is now leaking from the oil pan gasket. It is 4WD,
so removing the pan to replace the gasket is quite a procedure. I torqued all the bolts and they were right on.
Yeah, synthetics don't cause leaks, they just show through previously existing ones that conventional wouldn't get through easily.
And torquing your bolts on the pan doesn't stop a leak. You could have a bad seal on a main or you could have had excess crank case pressure that caused a blow out of the pan gasket.
Mobil 1 is a very good oil. I bought my brother a Corvette, and the engine started to overheat when he got an oil change with just normal oil. I told him that the LT1 engine was designed to run on Mobil1. He had this put in, and engine operating temperature ran much cooler and completely stopped overheating. - In any car this should lengthen the engine life and help guard against head gasket failures.
lt1 doesn't really over heat unless you cooling system problem, they run hot because of bad fan programming design!
the first fan come on at 210 or 220,and second fan comes at 225 that's why your gauge goes 3/4 up before cooling fan start kicking even though your factory thermostat is 180 degree
you can put 160 thermostat and reprogram the computer to kick sooner like I did and your gauge never goes pass the 1/4 mark
Even if a car owner runs synthetic motor oil in their vehicle it is important to follow the recommended oil change intervals and the manufacture recommended oil viscosity.
Please also make SURE that the engine is REGULARLY checked for seal leaks and REGULARLY have the oil topped off to the full mark. When the engine oil becomes a cup or a quart low even if synthetic oil is being used the oil is now being worked under a very high duty cycle which may lead to a lubrication failure.
YES! The guy that started Ams Oil was a USAF Pilot. He knew about synthetic oil, but he also knew that to put it in a car, it needed an Additive Package.
As a jet fighter squadron commander, Lieutenant Colonel Albert J. Amatuzio had opportunity to witness synthetic lubricants in action. Amatuzio began conducting research in the early 1960s. He soon developed and sold commercially available synthetic oils under a variety of names. The milestone came in 1972 when AMSOIL became the first synthetic motor oil in the world to meet American Petroleum Institute service requirements. [1]
During the 70's and 80's, I remember being told you can't mix oils with different weights or mix multi weight oil with straight weight oil. A guy recently told me he intentionally put 5 different weights of oil in his big block Chevelle just to prove em wrong. Never had a problem.
2:10 I'm sold!!! Who didn't already know synthetic oil was superior?
Show more of caliann.
I have used Mobile 1 for many years. However, I don't put a lot of miles on my "weekend" car. Is there a time limit for the oil to changed with few miles of usage?
I would say it depends on how far you drive each time. If it is a short drive each time the engine doesn’t have enough time to heat up and burn off the moisture accumulation. If it’s longer drive time you could get away with longer oil change intervals if it was highway driving.
It did not start burning off at "X" miles I assure you. It was burning off at the same rate all along. However switching to a synthetic like M1 (or any syn) after years of conventional can see initial consumption until a new cylinder glaze is created. Other reasons for more consumption switching to syn is the the issues of older engines. A little looser, has some leaks, etc. Theat the reason I use the high mileage version of M1. I could not run a standard syn, would leak.
I've been a fan of synthetic ever since I had an oil filter fail due to mfg defect. I lost 4 quarts in a moment. drove a mile on an empty crankcase to a Trak Auto and spun on a new filter and 4 quarts of Mobil1 and was on my way without issue.
Was this brought to me by independent laboratory testing?