Thanks Jason! You brought up several great points regarding preventive rose care. I always prune around the end of January and remove as much mulch and old leaves as possible. Since doing this, I’ve had better rose health, overall. Thanks for always sharing your ideas and information.
Thanks for the reminder! We gave up on a peach because it was just too much and the pests and diseases got the best of it. But this needs to be done on our remaining fruit trees, for sure!
What a shame. Peaches really have gone to hell in a handbrake. I'm from Georgia and I can tell you idk where a peach orchard is for 100 mile radius. #pests
@@bri0013 Try a Dwarf variety that You can grow 🪴 in an Large Plastic Pot on the Back Patio. Place the Pot on a base that can be moved from a ☀️ Sunny location in the Summer and away from any Severe Wind 🌬️ then at the end of the Season move it to a more protected place. Try it. I think You will have great 😃 Success. Sincerely Yours 🤠 Mr Severance, "The Cake 😋🍰🎂🥳🎉🎈🥂🎊 Man".
What a great video! You answered my questions about dormant spray and should I clean up the remaining leaves on my roses. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
So true about knowing your area and climate. Watching my plants adjust to their new environment has been interesting to see. The elevation change from 1,000ft/300m to 4,600ft/1,400 has had so many different affects on all the different species of plants. Many of them have erupted with new buds, blossoms, and growth while others appear to have died off completely. The real story is time, patience, and observation, with a wait and see attitude. I know that the majority of plants will be just fine and expect their character traits to begin showing in next few months, especially after February and the coldest temperatures have passed. So far all of the plants have lost their leaves 2 or 3 times and most are full of new buds now. The Cacoa are the only ones who have remained in a state of shock, but time will tell. I was tempted to do a dormant treatment because it's the perfect time to address all of the tropical pest issues from the lower elevation location, but the wise move is to wait and see exactly what pests even emerge up here at this new elevation and if any of those pests survive these colder temperatures, so far down to 44F/6.7C, but expect 38F/3.5C in February. Although this isn't mainland winter temperatures it is definitely a severe and drastic change for plants that lived their entire lives in tropical temperatures until 3 months ago. Aside from the elevation change and temperatures the whole climate is different. This is a high mountain climate with wind at speeds over 100mph/160kph in a recent winter storm. The typical weather is misty cloud rain, but very little ground saturation resulting from a high desert condition. The interesting effect is mold, mildew, and fungus caused by the cloud mist and afternoon cloud cover. Still lots of adjustments to watch and possibly plan for depending upon what actually develops. The dormant treatment method is certainly beneficial for getting that thorough clean approach for the new season, especially a full area cleaning of old leaves and debris, so important. While my circumstances are a bit different, there is a broad range of overlapping conditions that can apply to anyone's growing situation around the world. Knowing your growing environment and understanding the effects that environment naturally has on your plants is critical to knowing what steps to take when problems do arise. Pests that are only a short time issue like spring hatching and then they disappear usually need no attention other than the ones who stay around while others can be a real thorn in the side year round. Observation is always the key ingredient because once you notice the situation you can begin to understand and address it. For me, this year is the observation and lear year to see what pests, if any, managed to the moving and adjustments to the new location and how prevalent they might become with current seasonal treatments as needed and then a winter program should that be needed as well. I personally avoid mixing different components because I want to know specifically which elements are effective and which ones are not.🤙
I live in the UK and have used a product called winter wash. This product is a blend of natural plant and fish oils suitable for use on edible and ornamental crops. I have used it on roses too. It works purely by physical means. After watching your video I feel I need to find some of the sprays that you have been talking about. Love the little chaple. ⛪️
Thanks for the tips! I currently cleaning up fallen rose leaves. Waiting for a sunny windless day to do the winter dormant spray for roses and apple trees.
I was using dormant oil and it's great . But I was having a problem finding a window of application in my climate, which I understood to be a temperature above 40 degrees but no rain for three days. I solved the problem with all season oil. It's more expensive, but if timing is a problem it's great stuff. I am also going to experiment with antitranspirents. I bought some last year. .
I’m jealous of the temperature zone instead the the subtropical zone I’m living in. I notice roses do grow better in under 25°C environment, and overwintering them would make the spring flowers much better.
Lol. I guess we can always be a little jealous of each other's climates. Some old saying like "The grass is greener on the other side of the fence" 这山望着那山高。
Thankyou for this video. Last year ive had some roses with white powdery mildew, others with black spot, and my holy hocks were always covered with bugs.
It's interesting to note that Copper Oxychloride is the organic version of Copper Hydroxide. I don't know if it is considered "organic", but it is certainly naturally occurring. Both are strong fungicides and bactericides and are used extensively as a foliar spray year-round. We stay away from foliar sprays of sulphates because it is very easy to burn stuff.
Thanks Brad. And your comment is why it's important that people take their own plants and climate into consideration. Organic (by whatever definition they're allowing) doesn't mean harmless.
I have to move my newly planted rose garden. Should I spray before I do as I did struggle with a lot of black spot and fungus last year…especially because the rain was so constant last spring that it was impossible to get a 48 hour rain free window…so I know I’ll HAVE to spray this year.
I'd be tempted to skip it. They'll be under some stress from the move, and suspect that spraying stress the roses a bit too (not as much as it does the insects or fungus spores - but that's the point of most of these sprays is to be *differentially* stressful. Once they're settled in and growing vigorously might be the time to deal with fungal problems IMO
Jason, I am a professional aquarist. Just wanted to let you know that, tho copper is used to treat fungal & parasitic diseases in fish, it is used @ VERY low doses. Additionally, it is toxic to amphibians. Therefore, your viewers should always protect against environmental contamination when using copper treatments, also. Hope this helps. 😊
Nice responsible video on winter disease management. I was attending my state green conference thsi morning and you are being properly cautious in your recommendations. I may note though that all of your grass is green there and it looks like it just rained. My morning drive today was in the farenheit teens, and we barely broke freezing later today.
Great rose care video as always. Have you ever used cow’s milk and water for blackspot? I’ve found it works pretty well, having first removed infected leaves then spraying with a fifty/fifty mixture blackspot doesn’t come back, at least not for a while. If it does then repeat the process. Pretty harmless but quite effective.
Your videos are always so helpful, thank you! Will any of these help with the rose sawfly larvae? Those are my biggest rose problem! Also, would you consider treating us with a tour of your property? I'm seeing things I've never seen before like the cute little church and the tree with the gorgeous box spheres around it 😃 The mountains in the background... Amazing😁
Thanks. Sawfly overwinters in the soil, so the only step in my video that may help is replacing the mulch around the roses. I'll try to fit in another tour this year!
I live in zone 9 Central Valley, California. My roses continue to keep their leaves throughout the winter, though I do prune back in January. Would this spray be ok to use on canes with foliage?
You spoke about overwintering insects. My roses get decimated by insects. I think the rose sawfly is the culprit. What insects will any of these treatments help to curtail? Thanks
Thanks Mark. I probably should have thrown a summary of the usual suspects into the video. Oh well - I guess that's what the comments can be useful for. Aphids, leaf hoppers and beetles/weevils overwinter on held and dropped leaves mainly, so stripping the old foliage (or spraying the odd one that you miss) is a good step, as is removing dropped leaves from the base. Caterpillars and scale insects try to find a hiding spot to cocoon against the stem. Rose sawfly, unfortunately, usually overwinters in the soil nearby. A cleanup and replacement of some mulch may help, but they won't likely be controlled by this spray.
I am glad you made this video. and to learn these sprays are somewhat safe or organic. that's important to me. my neighbors rose has black spot, if leaves fall in my garden I pick them up. My pear tree has rust spot and get caterpillars early spring, sorry don't know their english name, but they will eat the whole green leaves if I let them. Can I use these spray(s) on a magnolia tree too? it was here when I moved 2 years ago and it has weird black spots on it's leaves, first it was one branch, so I cut it off, wanted the crown higher up anyway, but then it spread to other parts too. I also pick up he leaves in an attempt to contain whatever that is
Don't for a second think that because a spray is organic that it is safer!!! Some organic sprays are decidedly more dangerous (both to plant health and human) they just meet the organic criteria. Stay safe! Especially during mixing and application!
Thanks Eli. Always a good reminder for yourself and your plants - as reasonable a track record as these products have, Organic (by whatever definition they're applying) doesn't mean harmless.
It's my first year with roses, I have a Sunny knockout, it developed two red bulbs and I had no idea what they were. I assumed they were seed pods now I know what to call them hips because I went back and found one of your videos about collecting the seeds. Not sure if you have a video about terminology but that might be helpful. Edit I've got to say they smell great once they are in the glass mashed up with water I can see why they put them in tea
Rose hip tea is yummy for sure! I did do a video on rose terminology a long time ago... I wonder how it holds up: ruclips.net/video/wKqrphBFSBs/видео.html
Hopefully the snow melts here reasonable soon as I need to spray desperately for black spot on my mini roses. Clean up & pruning just aren't enough it seems. My rose blooms, barely bud to bloom before they wilt and drop off , along with the black spot, so ugly, uugh!
I think we're both in tough areas for black spot then! My minis aren't so bad because they're under cover, but a few are pretty powdery mildew susceptible.
I find that if You provide enough space between Your Rose🌹Bushes and select old tried and true variety's and not something that is pretty but alas is not a strong variety. Plus I find "Own Root 🌹 Rose's do better our stronger than the newer Hybrid Tea's. I look for the rare Grandiflora Rose's like Queen Elizabeth,Ice Berg and a number of the David Austin Roses along with Jackson & Perkins. I never spray my Rose's . I just feed them and help encourage the Good Insect 🐝🦋's to come into my Garden 🏡🌺🌻🌹🌷 and take care of the Bad 🪲🐛. Sincerely Yours 🤠 Mr Severance, "The Cake 😋🍰🎂🥳🎉🎈🥂🎊 Man".
Thanks! Good tips and I like your approach. If you can get it down to the roses that aren't naturally susceptible, it makes it easier on the whole garden.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I am the Son of an Aerospace Engineer and he always said do it right the 1st time and take time to do Your Research. Sincerely Yours 🤠 Mr Severance, "The Cake 😋🍰🎂🥳🎉🎈🥂🎊 Man".
Thank you for this timely reminder. I followed your instructions on preparing Bordeaux mix last year (it is not allowed any more in many European countries, btw.) and had fairly good results. Main problems are fungus and coddling moth on fruit trees. My roses seem to be in fairly good health with only the potted ones getting black spot. I was wondering if it might be better for soil health to skip the Bordeaux mix this year and apply alternative years only. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Right. I heard that about the EU and copper. The soil contamination issues had a lot to do with commercial (mainly orchard and vineyards) operations with broad repeated spraying - but always wise to take steps on a personal level to be targeted. I focus on the most susceptible varieties of roses and limit my spraying to 1x per year at most. Like you said, alternating years with the lime sulphur dormant spray is a good measure - especially if your pests are primarily fungus rather than bacterial.
Something to consider for pest pressure are Achillea millefolium and Soldago canadensis. I think both should be native in your area, have them planted around will attract predatory insects that eat pests! We've had no pest problems at all since planting these two around our fruit trees.
Thanks so much - solidago gets a bad rep for allergies, but I'm told it's seldom the real culprit! Wonderfully long bloom period, and I even like it for cut flowers.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Ive seen insects on it Ive never seen before, I could watch mine all day. Plus we didn't cut them back for winter and many little birds were eating the seeds. Theyre an ecosystem all by themselves!
I wish you would ship roses to Puerto Rico. I have to buy expensive roses in Oregon - HEIRLOOM ROSES. They ship to Puerto Rico but they sure are pricey! I have 12 roses so far but would love to buy more.
How often do you spray during the dormant season? I saw you said wait 2 weeks between each type but do you rotate these sprays all throughout the entire dormant season?
Very informative, will watch again. We have black spot, mild winter in Australia, roses do survive but I'd like to help the roses thrive. My question is; Must I remove fallen leaves in winter? (Only 1 or 2 frosts) Can I sterilize the fallen leaves? Can I treat the roses during summer? Oops, that's 3 questions
Leaf removal is optional - the decision of whether it's worthwhile is answered by how much disease pressure you have. I can't think of a surefire way of sterilizing the fallen leaves, so I just pick them up and put them in compost (not to be reapplied to my rose beds). As for treating in the summer 2:39
Thank you Jason for the video I’m in zone10a and my roses don’t sleep at all, so I don’t use the dormant spray. Should I spray copper though to prevent rust? Some of my roses just have really bad rust, regardless of how much I clean up during the winter. Thank you
I'd probably give it a try - defoliate and thin as much as you think wise first. Removal of any dropped leaves & debris can also help. Tough to break the rust cycle in 10a!
I had a horrific infestation of thrips last year. I can't wait to try this. Should this be done before or after the canes are trimmed back? I usually do that the middle of February.
I've seen orchardists recommend neem in their winter spray routine - especially ones who are averse to chemical treatments. Feedback is mixed. The Canadian government, for instance, did not approve of neem for pesticide use, despite some off-label adoption by growers.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm i understand. Neem is not approved here in Sweden as a pesticide, but i have seen it for sale as a "leaf fertilizer " :D. I do not know how to get dormant oil, and i really need to do something with my roses. Last spring i had huge amount of small /max 6mm/ brown caterpillars or larves that ate fresh buds from inside.
Hi. May roses currently suit to perform in strip clubs! But since i'm in the tropics i'm doing the diluted milk spray added with kaolin. So far the mixture even knocked of whitefly but i need to do long run trial before i know for sure. I play around with seeds-sprouted fruit trees apples, persimmon and Chinese chestnut where i did cold treatment to the seeds for several month. Apples interestingly do not go dormant. Persimmmon and Chinese chestnut do snooze. The chestnut seems to attract pest non-stop and i wonder the solutions you suggested would ve suitable. Its blazing hot over here
Right - you definitely have to watch your rates (because things are in active growth) and the maximum recommended temperatures for application of the products!
Tks great info. I live in Mississauga ... I have 17 Rose plants and many of them get bugs and.black spot the temperatures go up to 12 C and the leaves have started to come out IS IT TOO LATE TO USE DORMANT SPRAY/OIL ??
Some parts of the U.S. like california, unless you have a pesticide ID or a commercial farmer, you can't get lime sulphur. Is there an alternative? Does pure sulphur work the same way as a dormant spray?
Seems lime sulfur is not available in most US states. I am in Indiana and not finding it either. But there is a lime sulfur dip for pets. Although it says 97.8% sulphurated lime, the SDS of Davis company lists the sulphide part as 29%. This is closer to the 23% of green earth lime sulfur that is available in Canada. I am thinking about using this!!
It'll help with overwintering aphids in general - but keep in mind that there's a new influx every season from distant climates (floating in with the breeze). Because they're evergreen, I'd be tempted to try a lighter horticultural oil if you're trying to eliminate scale or overwintering insects. Some supplier still make two grades of horticultural oil - one dormant (paraffin based) and one active season (general vegetable oil based)
Hey Jason, do you think winter spraying would help with apple trees that are infested with codling moths. Im on a spray routine that is recommended by local ag dept, but still have the problem
That's a tough one. They do overwinter in fissures of the bark, but some of the guides I saw said they're not too susceptible to the oil while in the cocoon, so it's better to try to get them at the time of emergence.
My shrub rose has an issue with the outer petals drying out and then the other petals are not able to open even though they are fully there. Does this problem have a name and how should I approach treating it.
If it's what I'm thinking, it's called "balling" - and it's usually either because too much moisture caused botrytis rot, or because of damage from thrips (sometimes both!)
Hello Jason- Love your videos. I live in zone 7 where the days (starting in January) can be around 60* but the nights can be in the 20s. So my roses start to bud in January, but then stop and start until real Spring arrives. So all my roses are leafing (and it will be in the 20s at night for a few more weeks and I heard Dormant Oil does not work if applied in the below-freezing temps) does that mean I should never Dormant Oil spray my roses? (I do have disease and pest problems with my plants) And Spring pruning- When the temps do rise above freezing at night can I Spring prune my already-leafing canes down to a good size?
If you're finding the timing difficult to fit in a true dormant spray, move over to a regular all-season horticultural oil and do it when they're active. Pruning timing is really a matter of choice. Sure, you can prune when they're leafing out - or you can wait until after first flush of flowers with no problem either.
hello, i have couple of questions are you using standard rosa canina or another type of rose used as rootstock in your varieties? How is the root behavior of the rootstock on which you are grafting? Or do the rootstocks you use change according to the rose varieties? (I ask without implying cane roses) bene vale
The reason I heard is that the roses act as a "sentinel" plant for pest monitoring. Planted at the ends of rows at vineyards, the grower can quickly check them for aphids & other pests, as they're thought to develop problems ahead of the grape vines.
@@withinhistoriesgrasp9307 they are not symbiotic because they are not beneficial to each other. Roses are a indicator for the human to be aware of the problem ahead, before the grapes get infected.
Llámenme loco, pero considero importantes los aguijones en los rosales, concidero que las espinas son parte de la rosa que le complementa esa belleza rústica del rosal, por eso no soy fan de esas nuevas especies de rosas sin espinas
Is there anything available to fight RRD? I have had 2 roses infected in the last year. I am going to burn the last one and not plant a rose in that location again.
It's a virus - so the things you can do are aimed at prevention, not a cure. Eliminating infected plants is a good step. So is identifying and fighting the mites that spread the disease. The final prong of the attack is to introduce more resistant varieties - which in turn will even help susceptible varieties, because there are fewer hosts.
Im having a hard time finding a dormant oil or lime sulpher mix online. I live off grid on Gambier Island, no stores but i order stuff from vancouver… whats best to order and where from?
I had a quick look at found this in stock at Cdn. Tire in North Van: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/green-earth-outdoor-dormant-oil-sulphur-spray-kit-insecticide-500ml-1-l-0593777p.html?loc=plp
Thank you kindly!!!! I felt uncertain…now problem solved and it will hit the water taxi in time with this upcoming sun. Your videos are really awesome and very helpful.
Hah, you 're jealous living in the tropical climate? Bugs. Bugs. Bugs. Alllll year around. Ugh!🙁🫥 I had a night light shining on my rose, but that light died. The vine rose (kinda looking like a tree now) is still thriving. No Japanese beetle munching on them. Don't ask me what's the name of the rose. It's a rogue vine. Good info video.
Thanks Jason! You brought up several great points regarding preventive rose care. I always prune around the end of January and remove as much mulch and old leaves as possible. Since doing this, I’ve had better rose health, overall. Thanks for always sharing your ideas and information.
Thanks for sharing your success! I find it's a lot more essential for disease susceptible varieties.
Thanks for sharing. I have a fantastic Master Gardener neighbour who sprays my roses and fruit trees when she does hers. Best neighbour ever!
You bet. We could all stand a neighbor like that!
Thank you for the great information 👍
I usually don't comment on the looks of the presenter, but I like that your haircut matches the bare rose stems :-)
Withholding from comments about the looks of the presenter is both wise and civil. So you're (usually) a pretty decent guy ;-)
Thank you for this easy to understand explanation of the sprays. I have been dealing with black spot and learning about keeping them clean.
Thanks for the reminder! We gave up on a peach because it was just too much and the pests and diseases got the best of it. But this needs to be done on our remaining fruit trees, for sure!
What a shame. Peaches really have gone to hell in a handbrake. I'm from Georgia and I can tell you idk where a peach orchard is for 100 mile radius. #pests
@@bri0013 Try a Dwarf variety that You can grow 🪴 in an Large Plastic Pot on the Back Patio. Place the Pot on a base that can be moved from a ☀️ Sunny location in the Summer and away from any Severe Wind 🌬️ then at the end of the Season move it to a more protected place.
Try it. I think You will have great 😃 Success.
Sincerely Yours 🤠 Mr Severance,
"The Cake 😋🍰🎂🥳🎉🎈🥂🎊 Man".
What a great video! You answered my questions about dormant spray and should I clean up the remaining leaves on my roses. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
So true about knowing your area and climate.
Watching my plants adjust to their new environment has been interesting to see.
The elevation change from 1,000ft/300m to 4,600ft/1,400 has had so many different affects on all the different species of plants. Many of them have erupted with new buds, blossoms, and growth while others appear to have died off completely.
The real story is time, patience, and observation, with a wait and see attitude.
I know that the majority of plants will be just fine and expect their character traits to begin showing in next few months, especially after February and the coldest temperatures have passed.
So far all of the plants have lost their leaves 2 or 3 times and most are full of new buds now. The Cacoa are the only ones who have remained in a state of shock, but time will tell.
I was tempted to do a dormant treatment because it's the perfect time to address all of the tropical pest issues from the lower elevation location, but the wise move is to wait and see exactly what pests even emerge up here at this new elevation and if any of those pests survive these colder temperatures, so far down to 44F/6.7C, but expect 38F/3.5C in February. Although this isn't mainland winter temperatures it is definitely a severe and drastic change for plants that lived their entire lives in tropical temperatures until 3 months ago.
Aside from the elevation change and temperatures the whole climate is different.
This is a high mountain climate with wind at speeds over 100mph/160kph in a recent winter storm.
The typical weather is misty cloud rain, but very little ground saturation resulting from a high desert condition.
The interesting effect is mold, mildew, and fungus caused by the cloud mist and afternoon cloud cover.
Still lots of adjustments to watch and possibly plan for depending upon what actually develops.
The dormant treatment method is certainly beneficial for getting that thorough clean approach for the new season, especially a full area cleaning of old leaves and debris, so important.
While my circumstances are a bit different, there is a broad range of overlapping conditions that can apply to anyone's growing situation around the world.
Knowing your growing environment and understanding the effects that environment naturally has on your plants is critical to knowing what steps to take when problems do arise.
Pests that are only a short time issue like spring hatching and then they disappear usually need no attention other than the ones who stay around while others can be a real thorn in the side year round.
Observation is always the key ingredient because once you notice the situation you can begin to understand and address it.
For me, this year is the observation and lear year to see what pests, if any, managed to the moving and adjustments to the new location and how prevalent they might become with current seasonal treatments as needed and then a winter program should that be needed as well.
I personally avoid mixing different components because I want to know specifically which elements are effective and which ones are not.🤙
I live in the UK and have used a product called winter wash. This product is a blend of natural plant and fish oils suitable for use on edible and ornamental crops. I have used it on roses too. It works purely by physical means. After watching your video I feel I need to find some of the sprays that you have been talking about. Love the little chaple. ⛪️
Thanks Pauline. It's almost finished!
Always solid content! And thanks for the reminder.
You got it Mike.
Thanks for the tips! I currently cleaning up fallen rose leaves. Waiting for a sunny windless day to do the winter dormant spray for roses and apple trees.
As always, excellent video!
Thanks for again a comprehensive information, enhanced by a quick view of your surroundings.
Jason has the most informative videos that I have found. Thanks.
Thank you for once again giving us a great, informative video. I love your clean, easy to understand style.
I really appreciate the feedback and encouragement Joann
I was using dormant oil and it's great . But I was having a problem finding a window of application in my climate, which I understood to be a temperature above 40 degrees but no rain for three days.
I solved the problem with all season oil. It's more expensive, but if timing is a problem it's great stuff.
I am also going to experiment with antitranspirents. I bought some last year.
.
I’m jealous of the temperature zone instead the the subtropical zone I’m living in. I notice roses do grow better in under 25°C environment, and overwintering them would make the spring flowers much better.
Lol. I guess we can always be a little jealous of each other's climates. Some old saying like "The grass is greener on the other side of the fence" 这山望着那山高。
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm aha! I don’t know you speak Chinese! What other hidden talents do you have? Haha. Anyway, happy new year of rabbit!
Google knows the things I don't. Happy new year!
Thankyou for this video. Last year ive had some roses with white powdery mildew, others with black spot, and my holy hocks were always covered with bugs.
It's interesting to note that Copper Oxychloride is the organic version of Copper Hydroxide. I don't know if it is considered "organic", but it is certainly naturally occurring. Both are strong fungicides and bactericides and are used extensively as a foliar spray year-round. We stay away from foliar sprays of sulphates because it is very easy to burn stuff.
Thanks Brad. And your comment is why it's important that people take their own plants and climate into consideration. Organic (by whatever definition they're allowing) doesn't mean harmless.
Thanks for the video. Very Informative..
So welcome.
I have to move my newly planted rose garden. Should I spray before I do as I did struggle with a lot of black spot and fungus last year…especially because the rain was so constant last spring that it was impossible to get a 48 hour rain free window…so I know I’ll HAVE to spray this year.
I'd be tempted to skip it. They'll be under some stress from the move, and suspect that spraying stress the roses a bit too (not as much as it does the insects or fungus spores - but that's the point of most of these sprays is to be *differentially* stressful. Once they're settled in and growing vigorously might be the time to deal with fungal problems IMO
Fantastic video. Thanks for the information, Jason.
Jason,
I am a professional aquarist. Just wanted to let you know that, tho copper is used to treat fungal & parasitic diseases in fish, it is used @ VERY low doses. Additionally, it is toxic to amphibians. Therefore, your viewers should always protect against environmental contamination when using copper treatments, also.
Hope this helps. 😊
Nice responsible video on winter disease management. I was attending my state green conference thsi morning and you are being properly cautious in your recommendations. I may note though that all of your grass is green there and it looks like it just rained. My morning drive today was in the farenheit teens, and we barely broke freezing later today.
Great rose care video as always. Have you ever used cow’s milk and water for blackspot? I’ve found it works pretty well, having first removed infected leaves then spraying with a fifty/fifty mixture blackspot doesn’t come back, at least not for a while. If it does then repeat the process. Pretty harmless but quite effective.
Thanks. I don't use it much myself, but there's good evidence that it's useful for powdery mildew as well.
Thanks for your information.
Your videos are always so helpful, thank you! Will any of these help with the rose sawfly larvae? Those are my biggest rose problem! Also, would you consider treating us with a tour of your property? I'm seeing things I've never seen before like the cute little church and the tree with the gorgeous box spheres around it 😃 The mountains in the background... Amazing😁
Thanks. Sawfly overwinters in the soil, so the only step in my video that may help is replacing the mulch around the roses. I'll try to fit in another tour this year!
I live in zone 9 Central Valley, California. My roses continue to keep their leaves throughout the winter, though I do prune back in January. Would this spray be ok to use on canes with foliage?
Hi Ruth 2:39
You spoke about overwintering insects. My roses get decimated by insects. I think the rose sawfly is the culprit. What insects will any of these treatments help to curtail? Thanks
Thanks Mark. I probably should have thrown a summary of the usual suspects into the video. Oh well - I guess that's what the comments can be useful for. Aphids, leaf hoppers and beetles/weevils overwinter on held and dropped leaves mainly, so stripping the old foliage (or spraying the odd one that you miss) is a good step, as is removing dropped leaves from the base. Caterpillars and scale insects try to find a hiding spot to cocoon against the stem. Rose sawfly, unfortunately, usually overwinters in the soil nearby. A cleanup and replacement of some mulch may help, but they won't likely be controlled by this spray.
Thanks. 👍
You're so welcome.
I am glad you made this video. and to learn these sprays are somewhat safe or organic. that's important to me. my neighbors rose has black spot, if leaves fall in my garden I pick them up. My pear tree has rust spot and get caterpillars early spring, sorry don't know their english name, but they will eat the whole green leaves if I let them. Can I use these spray(s) on a magnolia tree too? it was here when I moved 2 years ago and it has weird black spots on it's leaves, first it was one branch, so I cut it off, wanted the crown higher up anyway, but then it spread to other parts too. I also pick up he leaves in an attempt to contain whatever that is
Don't for a second think that because a spray is organic that it is safer!!! Some organic sprays are decidedly more dangerous (both to plant health and human) they just meet the organic criteria. Stay safe! Especially during mixing and application!
Thanks Eli. Always a good reminder for yourself and your plants - as reasonable a track record as these products have, Organic (by whatever definition they're applying) doesn't mean harmless.
It's my first year with roses, I have a Sunny knockout, it developed two red bulbs and I had no idea what they were. I assumed they were seed pods now I know what to call them hips because I went back and found one of your videos about collecting the seeds. Not sure if you have a video about terminology but that might be helpful.
Edit
I've got to say they smell great once they are in the glass mashed up with water I can see why they put them in tea
Rose hip tea is yummy for sure! I did do a video on rose terminology a long time ago... I wonder how it holds up: ruclips.net/video/wKqrphBFSBs/видео.html
Hopefully the snow melts here reasonable soon as I need to spray desperately for black spot on my mini roses.
Clean up & pruning just aren't enough it seems.
My rose blooms, barely bud to bloom before they wilt and drop off , along with the black spot, so ugly, uugh!
I think we're both in tough areas for black spot then! My minis aren't so bad because they're under cover, but a few are pretty powdery mildew susceptible.
I find that if You provide enough space between Your Rose🌹Bushes and select old tried and true variety's and not something that is pretty but alas is not a strong variety.
Plus I find "Own Root 🌹 Rose's do better our stronger than the newer Hybrid Tea's. I look for the rare Grandiflora Rose's like Queen Elizabeth,Ice Berg and a number of the David Austin Roses along with
Jackson & Perkins.
I never spray my Rose's . I just feed them and help encourage the Good Insect 🐝🦋's to come into my Garden 🏡🌺🌻🌹🌷 and take care of the Bad 🪲🐛.
Sincerely Yours 🤠 Mr Severance,
"The Cake 😋🍰🎂🥳🎉🎈🥂🎊 Man".
Thanks! Good tips and I like your approach. If you can get it down to the roses that aren't naturally susceptible, it makes it easier on the whole garden.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I am the Son of an Aerospace Engineer and he always said do it right the 1st time and take time to do Your Research.
Sincerely Yours 🤠 Mr Severance,
"The Cake 😋🍰🎂🥳🎉🎈🥂🎊 Man".
Thank you for this timely reminder. I followed your instructions on preparing Bordeaux mix last year (it is not allowed any more in many European countries, btw.) and had fairly good results. Main problems are fungus and coddling moth on fruit trees. My roses seem to be in fairly good health with only the potted ones getting black spot.
I was wondering if it might be better for soil health to skip the Bordeaux mix this year and apply alternative years only. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Right. I heard that about the EU and copper. The soil contamination issues had a lot to do with commercial (mainly orchard and vineyards) operations with broad repeated spraying - but always wise to take steps on a personal level to be targeted. I focus on the most susceptible varieties of roses and limit my spraying to 1x per year at most. Like you said, alternating years with the lime sulphur dormant spray is a good measure - especially if your pests are primarily fungus rather than bacterial.
Something to consider for pest pressure are Achillea millefolium and Soldago canadensis. I think both should be native in your area, have them planted around will attract predatory insects that eat pests! We've had no pest problems at all since planting these two around our fruit trees.
Thanks so much - solidago gets a bad rep for allergies, but I'm told it's seldom the real culprit! Wonderfully long bloom period, and I even like it for cut flowers.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Ive seen insects on it Ive never seen before, I could watch mine all day. Plus we didn't cut them back for winter and many little birds were eating the seeds. Theyre an ecosystem all by themselves!
I wish you would ship roses to Puerto Rico. I have to buy expensive roses in Oregon - HEIRLOOM ROSES. They ship to Puerto Rico but they sure are pricey! I have 12 roses so far but would love to buy more.
Thanks - I bet it would be even more expensive to send from Canada.
Thank you!!
Very welcome!
How often do you spray during the dormant season? I saw you said wait 2 weeks between each type but do you rotate these sprays all throughout the entire dormant season?
Great info!
Great information , thank you.
My pleasure Gail. Thanks for the encouragement!
Very informative, will watch again. We have black spot, mild winter in Australia, roses do survive but I'd like to help the roses thrive. My question is; Must I remove fallen leaves in winter? (Only 1 or 2 frosts) Can I sterilize the fallen leaves? Can I treat the roses during summer? Oops, that's 3 questions
Leaf removal is optional - the decision of whether it's worthwhile is answered by how much disease pressure you have. I can't think of a surefire way of sterilizing the fallen leaves, so I just pick them up and put them in compost (not to be reapplied to my rose beds). As for treating in the summer 2:39
Thank you Jason for the video
I’m in zone10a and my roses don’t sleep at all, so I don’t use the dormant spray. Should I spray copper though to prevent rust? Some of my roses just have really bad rust, regardless of how much I clean up during the winter. Thank you
I'd probably give it a try - defoliate and thin as much as you think wise first. Removal of any dropped leaves & debris can also help. Tough to break the rust cycle in 10a!
I had a horrific infestation of thrips last year. I can't wait to try this. Should this be done before or after the canes are trimmed back? I usually do that the middle of February.
I'd do it after.
Dear Jason, do u think I can use neem oil instead of dormant oil?
I've seen orchardists recommend neem in their winter spray routine - especially ones who are averse to chemical treatments. Feedback is mixed. The Canadian government, for instance, did not approve of neem for pesticide use, despite some off-label adoption by growers.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm i understand. Neem is not approved here in Sweden as a pesticide, but i have seen it for sale as a "leaf fertilizer " :D. I do not know how to get dormant oil, and i really need to do something with my roses. Last spring i had huge amount of small /max 6mm/ brown caterpillars or larves that ate fresh buds from inside.
Hi. May roses currently suit to perform in strip clubs! But since i'm in the tropics i'm doing the diluted milk spray added with kaolin. So far the mixture even knocked of whitefly but i need to do long run trial before i know for sure.
I play around with seeds-sprouted fruit trees apples, persimmon and Chinese chestnut where i did cold treatment to the seeds for several month. Apples interestingly do not go dormant. Persimmmon and Chinese chestnut do snooze. The chestnut seems to attract pest non-stop and i wonder the solutions you suggested would ve suitable. Its blazing hot over here
Right - you definitely have to watch your rates (because things are in active growth) and the maximum recommended temperatures for application of the products!
Tks great info. I live in Mississauga ... I have 17 Rose plants and many of them get bugs and.black spot the temperatures go up to 12 C and the leaves have started to come out IS IT TOO LATE TO USE DORMANT SPRAY/OIL ??
Lime sulfur can be applied as directed in different seasons, but I think true dormant oil may direct otherwise.
Some parts of the U.S. like california, unless you have a pesticide ID or a commercial farmer, you can't get lime sulphur. Is there an alternative? Does pure sulphur work the same way as a dormant spray?
It's not as strong/active against overwintering spores.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks Jason! It would be nice to also learn if there’s an alternative to like sulfur
Seems lime sulfur is not available in most US states. I am in Indiana and not finding it either. But there is a lime sulfur dip for pets. Although it says 97.8% sulphurated lime, the SDS of Davis company lists the sulphide part as 29%. This is closer to the 23% of green earth lime sulfur that is available in Canada. I am thinking about using this!!
Thank you for the heads up
Will this help the aphids that are specific to the Trumpet HoneySuckle?
Lastly what can I put on my Laurel bushes now?
It'll help with overwintering aphids in general - but keep in mind that there's a new influx every season from distant climates (floating in with the breeze). Because they're evergreen, I'd be tempted to try a lighter horticultural oil if you're trying to eliminate scale or overwintering insects. Some supplier still make two grades of horticultural oil - one dormant (paraffin based) and one active season (general vegetable oil based)
Hey Jason, do you think winter spraying would help with apple trees that are infested with codling moths. Im on a spray routine that is recommended by local ag dept, but still have the problem
That's a tough one. They do overwinter in fissures of the bark, but some of the guides I saw said they're not too susceptible to the oil while in the cocoon, so it's better to try to get them at the time of emergence.
Are you timing sprays by monitoring for emergence? That is the important bit -- perfect timing.
@@elibennett3034 yes I am but they seem to be winning
Thank you again Jason for this important information.
I’m still confused with the hydrated Lime. Would Laboratory grade powder be the same thing?
If it's calcium hydroxide
Your awesome! I’m finding it at the local box box store . It’s in such a large bag 😳
My shrub rose has an issue with the outer petals drying out and then the other petals are not able to open even though they are fully there. Does this problem have a name and how should I approach treating it.
If it's what I'm thinking, it's called "balling" - and it's usually either because too much moisture caused botrytis rot, or because of damage from thrips (sometimes both!)
It's January, cold and snow here in Wisconsin. When should we start spraying.
As soon as you can nab a day of 50 degree dryish weather - it may be some time yet, but look for the opening.
I have a problem with my leaves yellowing. Would this help or is this another issue?
It depends on the cause. ruclips.net/video/WeT1GNxh9tc/видео.html
Hello Jason- Love your videos. I live in zone 7 where the days (starting in January) can be around 60* but the nights can be in the 20s. So my roses start to bud in January, but then stop and start until real Spring arrives. So all my roses are leafing (and it will be in the 20s at night for a few more weeks and I heard Dormant Oil does not work if applied in the below-freezing temps) does that mean I should never Dormant Oil spray my roses? (I do have disease and pest problems with my plants) And Spring pruning- When the temps do rise above freezing at night can I Spring prune my already-leafing canes down to a good size?
If you're finding the timing difficult to fit in a true dormant spray, move over to a regular all-season horticultural oil and do it when they're active. Pruning timing is really a matter of choice. Sure, you can prune when they're leafing out - or you can wait until after first flush of flowers with no problem either.
Thank you for the information
hello, i have couple of questions
are you using standard rosa canina or another type of rose used as rootstock in your varieties?
How is the root behavior of the rootstock on which you are grafting?
Or do the rootstocks you use change according to the rose varieties? (I ask without implying cane roses)
bene vale
Thanks. I produce own-root roses by cuttings. Anything I have on rootstock is from other suppliers.
Hi
Why are grapes and roses parred together
The reason I heard is that the roses act as a "sentinel" plant for pest monitoring. Planted at the ends of rows at vineyards, the grower can quickly check them for aphids & other pests, as they're thought to develop problems ahead of the grape vines.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm would you say they are symbiotic
@@withinhistoriesgrasp9307 they are not symbiotic because they are not beneficial to each other. Roses are a indicator for the human to be aware of the problem ahead, before the grapes get infected.
Llámenme loco, pero considero importantes los aguijones en los rosales, concidero que las espinas son parte de la rosa que le complementa esa belleza rústica del rosal, por eso no soy fan de esas nuevas especies de rosas sin espinas
Is there anything available to fight RRD? I have had 2 roses infected in the last year. I am going to burn the last one and not plant a rose in that location again.
It's a virus - so the things you can do are aimed at prevention, not a cure. Eliminating infected plants is a good step. So is identifying and fighting the mites that spread the disease. The final prong of the attack is to introduce more resistant varieties - which in turn will even help susceptible varieties, because there are fewer hosts.
Im having a hard time finding a dormant oil or lime sulpher mix online. I live off grid on Gambier Island, no stores but i order stuff from vancouver… whats best to order and where from?
I had a quick look at found this in stock at Cdn. Tire in North Van: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/green-earth-outdoor-dormant-oil-sulphur-spray-kit-insecticide-500ml-1-l-0593777p.html?loc=plp
Thank you kindly!!!! I felt uncertain…now problem solved and it will hit the water taxi in time with this upcoming sun. Your videos are really awesome and very helpful.
Is there a winter spray for aphids?
I'd go with insecticidal soap
Where do I get this stuff!?!?
Check your local garden center or hardware store
Hah, you 're jealous living in the tropical climate? Bugs. Bugs. Bugs. Alllll year around. Ugh!🙁🫥 I had a night light shining on my rose, but that light died. The vine rose (kinda looking like a tree now) is still thriving. No Japanese beetle munching on them. Don't ask me what's the name of the rose. It's a rogue vine. Good info video.