Two of the best people to get advice from. Both of you speak so well to roses and in everyday language. I love how you keep it simple and seem to grow roses because you simply love roses. It reflects what most of us feel.
You both care about precious roses. Roses share and shower people with beauty. My elder neighbors drive by my front yard and slowly drive by. I think they see beauty. Roses. You two share beauty to others. You have a talent. We appreciate you.
Excellent topics on growing roses. I struggled to find solutions suitable for my condition, years of getting conflicting information is very frustrating. You two are my go to rose gurus who always have decent thoughts and knowledge to help me grow better roses.Thank you, Jason and Kim.🤩🙌
I live in Tucson, Az and use cedar mulch -about 8” thick! Today it’s 107 degrees and they look stunning. Us in the desert need to keep roots cooler! 2. Wow. I always cut any plant at a 45. I seal with glue or cinnamon depending on the houseplant, bush, etc 3. Heat stressed plants respond well to B1.
😮really? Malaysia is like ....so hot rite now due to El Nino & some of my roses are pretty stressed up. I just water it more. Waterblasting it to reduce the drought stress. If B1 is effective. I'd like to try it😊 Thanks. Go Organic!
I didn't mulch my roses for the first 6 years of growing them, and they either died or the grafts died during winter, and I had to keep replacing them, soon as I mulched them, we had the coldest winter in a long time and they all survived. So through trial and error I'd have to say mulch helped out alot.
Gardening is like cooking. If you try to implement all the ideas flying around about the preparation of food, and growing plants, you'd have nervous breakdowns in your kitchen and garden. Here in Grand Rapids, Michigan, I use a lot of mulch, and winterize my roses with chicken wire cages filled with leaves. I won't remove it until late in April, even the first week in May, if the weather is bad. People here tend to prune a lot in fall, whereas I only prune lightly. This way I have lots of good canes to start with in spring. Thanks so much for teaming up with Kimberly to address these ideas.
During the winter I don‘t soak bare roots prior to planting, because the water in the roots can expand after planting if it gets freezing cold during the night. This can damage the roots. Except one, all of the roses I have planted without soaking have survived and are as strong and healthy as the ones that were soaked. In warmer periods I usually soak bare rooted roses for about 6-8 hours or over night, but if I „forget“ them in their bath and leave them there for another day it doesn’t hurt them. I never let them soak for a week or two though 😅 I love Kordes roses too, by the way 😊 Greetings from Germany!
"I start out default skeptical" You just became my favourite RUclips gardener. :) Folks need to remember that correlation does not equal causation. For soaking bare root roses, I could see the need varying depending on your climate. If I'm planting in the Lower Mainland of BC (near where Jason gardens, if I plant now, it's likely going to rain 4 of the next 7 days and continue in that pattern until July, so the rose isn't going to lack moisture. For pruning, Georgie on Common Farm says that because she has so many roses, she sometimes uses hedge trimmers!!
Thanks Candace! Yes, I always think of the hedge trimmer people when I hear all this fuss about angles and outward-facing buds. There's definitely some advantage to pruning for size, shape, thinning and removal of damaged/diseased stems, but after that the plant has a mind of its own. And no, we're sure not going to lack soil moisture for the next while!
I want to start doing soil testing, but I have a formula of stuff that I’ve been adding to my soil regularly, mixed in and toppers, and most everything just seems super happy. Key seems to be big variety of stuff plus mycorrhizae at the roots at time of planting … I use kelp meal, azomite, alfalfa, a couple pinches of epsom and sea salt for iodine, and charcoal that I crush myself and add to compost and let simmer for 6 months … but that mychorizae does wonders. I want to start using sardines in my planting holes and see what happens. I used to use blood meal but it attracts cats and other critters and they flock to my planters and uproot stuff. I only use that because I still have a bag, but now I only use it deep down in the soil only, as I will for when I get around to the sardine trick. Or for a few of my urban clients planters.
I've I've boughten bare-root roses from Home Depot, and from Lowe's, and I had never soaked them I did not know that we were supposed to soak them I will just take them out of the packaging dig a hole , I'll fill the hole with water and then fill it up with dirt and they have grown fine.
Thanks Jason, as always a lot of great information. Now if I can just remember everything. I have big problems growing roses BUT I’m not giving up.❄️💚🙃
Kimberly and Jason, This is a great conversation. The most important bit of information is... Know your area! Whether you have lived there for years or are new to the area, it is vital to know the soil composition, climate conditions, and general overall climate your plants are going to live in. These three elements will determine the life cycle of pests, biological beneficials, plant growing patterns and behavior, water, nutrition, and every other thing that will determine what you need for success. The depth of planting will be determined mainly by the time of year and region when planting. If you are early in the safe planting season you will want to typically match the depth the plant was originally at. However, you both mentioned and I agree as well that being able to observe new plants growing habits will greatly improve their overall success. I prefer to plant all new roses about a fingers thickness below the highest roots, allowing the rest of the plant to be above ground until the new growth begins to appear and then I can make whatever adjustments after that. For my growing area, I will never be concerned with sub-zero temperatures, so crown protection and severe weather precautions are not a part of my growing concerns; however, high winds, driving rain, and high mountain misty air, are. This region is a new growing experience for me, so there is a great deal of observation and planning as I see things develop and watch for evidence of things I am concerned might develop. Keeping garden tools clean is just a healthy practice that should be done all the time. If I were a chef or a surgeon I'm pretty sure everyone would expect me to keep my hands and tools clean and the garden is really no different.😉 Soil testing is a necessary part of knowing just how healthy your growing environment is. We have physical examinations every few years to make sure we maintain a healthy body and the same applies to our growing spaces. We often try to avoid it, but that examination puts us at ease once it's done and if something is found it is treated right away. I am considered barbaric by rose enthusiasts because I actually do very little for roses unless they tell me they need something. As long as the soil is healthy and balanced and they have the water they need, they are pretty much on their own. I do add a little fresh potting soil around them every other year as a fortifier, but they really don't need a lot of attention. My climate is quite mild, so as the roses grow I will need to prune more often depending on what type of roses they are and just how big I want them to be, but that is about it. One thing about pruning, the canes don't grow straight, so even if you cut them straight they will always be angled anyway, just sayin.😜😁 As a grower and coffee producer, here is a thought about soaking root plants. When I process coffee, the freshly pulped beans are soaked for about 12-14 hours or basically overnight to ferment and then they are rinsed and spread out to dry. If it only takes 12-14 hours to ferment those coffee beans how long do you suppose it will take to start fermenting the roots of a plant? I personally soak roots for as little as necessary just to allow moisture saturation, but not more than 4 hours. A 2x4 of lumber will be fully wet all the way through if soaked overnight when it's completely dried out. Another little thought.🤔 Wonderful information.👌 Thank you both.🤙
Thanks! Good points on both rehydrating dry lumber and fermenting coffee beans. I suspect there's a little bit of human psychology that plays into the way these folk-remedies develop. If an hour long soak was helpful, why not overnight? If overnight was helpful, can I get a little more out of 24 hours? If 24 hours was helpful, maybe I can get a little "extra" out of 48 hours... and so on. The original idea was to solve a specific problem: dried out roots. If the roots aren't dried out, or they can be rehydrated in 1 hour, any extra isn't helpful. I liked what Kimberley said about "being your own Head Gardener" and not deferring to someone else for expertise. You're in the best position to observe the plants, the soil, the climate, the pests. I hope I don't hurt anyone's feelings with this next comment: it drives me a little batty when people reach out to me (they're generally reaching Lisa by email) wanting me to decide which plants they should grow or to guide them personally through one or another gardening challenge. I try to be as understanding as I can, but the real point of these videos is to encourage gardeners to think about "why it works" and to examine different approaches so that they can apply it to their own situation.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Exactly right. I share my experiences here in the comments to encourage people to take a closer look in their own growing spaces to identify their own particular differences because that is the specific information that will lead to bigger successes for their own growing experience. The lead-me-by-the-hand questions can become tedious, but I prefer to respond with questions that will help them realize that they are able to determine that information themselves. Of course some are just looking for the easy answer and will be dissatisfied with whatever answer you give. The old horse to water adage will always be true because when you have the information in front of you, but refuse to use it, you will always gain nothing. Some will, some won't, and some will argue it's the wrong kind.😜 One thing is for sure, this channel provides more information to be a success in your growing experience than any other out there. Between the content and comments, the wealth of knowledge here is amazing!👌🤙
This was an amazing discussion and I’ve never grown a rose. These are questions I have or would have had once I get one. Please do more of these, or even just conversations with other growers. So informative and interesting.
I have planted bare root roses and I never soaked them in the water and some of it I can’t plant right away because of busy schedule so after I received it I left it in its packaging in my garage for 4 days and then I planted it and now I after 3 months it’s blooming really good and so are my other roses I planted years ago with no soaking with water.
Great list! The only things I add is some fertilizer and some soil mycorrhizae, beneficial soil bacteria, and sometimes root stimulants. As for mulch, I heard it was because of their propensity to attract mold, which can be taken care of with a zinc oxide misting spray.
There is an old book I have called "Hunger Signs in Crops" which shows how plants and leaves appear when deficient in a particular nutrient. I highly recommend it!
I never cut my rose stems at a 45 degree angle they always did well but one day years ago I seen on TV that you were supposed to I really haven't seen a difference. When pruning I had never sealed the stems. I lost a rose it was a Victorian it was 40 years old do to 21 days of rain it died. Professionally I'm a veggie and fruit grower so roses are not my expertise I have learnt so much from your channel I now do lots of grafting and rooting of roses I really enjoy it. The problem I have with my roses is it looks like they get powdery mildew
re: soaking bare roots in water and having them fail. I have tried rooting stems (not roses) in water. They grow roots and live on water. A friend advised that a means of "teaching" them to live in soil is to add a tsp. of soil to the water daily (more obviously if a large bucket), and those roots "learn" to take up nutrients from the soil which eventually becomes like mud. Then transplant them into soil.... Makes sense and it worked for me, however I don't usually let the roots develop so far now before putting them into soil.. and I do more propagations from cuttings. Thanks Jason for all that you do!
Good conversation. Ill have to research some of the diseases you spoke about, & view pics of them, so I'll know them when I see them. Thank for your time
Muchísimas gracias a los 2 por lo instructivo de este video y por compartir con nosotros sus experiencias y conocimientos. En mi caso, sólo quiero tener hermosos rosales en mi jardín. Vivo en América del Sur, La Plata, Argentina 🇦🇷 y la información de este video me es muy útil. Saludos cordiales!
That’s interesting that all Rose Geek roses died after two weeks soaking. I received 30 DA roses in the mail before our new house was completed and I left them in a wheelbarrow of water for two weeks. Then I had to pot them up because again my landscape beds were not ready and they all did amazing. They did get a few new shoots in the wheelbarrow but none of them really opened up or anything. Now I had some Jackson Perkins bear root that did not do as well soaking in water. Now they also came later in the season versus March. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. They did struggle and I had to feed them Epson salts, which was recommended by Jackson and Perkins, and they did come back!
Thanks. Experience will definitely vary on soaking, but I don't see how an extended period is justified. Surely any seriously dehydrated roots will only need overnight, and if they're not noticeably dry, I can't see how it's helpful.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I think it really had less to do with being helpful, it just might not be hurtful if you receive them in mail and can’t get them in the ground for whatever reason, it’s OK to soak them for extended period if you had to. I think hearing hers died would worry a lot of people, I’m just saying mine did great 😊
Thanks Lisa Monique. I've heard anecdotes from both sides - people who swear by soaking bare roots, and others who have been disappointed. I'm glad yours turned out fine! I do go back to the topic of whether soaking is justified or beneficial at all because that was the topic of the video: evaluating common rose care facts and myths. One of those persistent myths (IMO) is that a gardener should or must soak their bare roots for a prescribed amount of time before planting. Usually the recommendation is overnight or for 24 hours, which I could see some sense in because perhaps the roots could be dehydrated after transport, and a short soak is not likely to cause any harm. As for a longer soak (or medium to long-term storage) I'm inclined to warn it off for the same reasons you wouldn't want most garden plants to live in poorly drained soil over winter: lack of oxygen around the roots for an extended period can lead to rot. Thanks for sharing your experience on it!
My hybrid tea roses were planted slightly above the ground and it got frost bites over the winter. So last year I had to dig it up and plant it couple inches below the soil and it overwintered much better. I think its a more vulnerable kind.
29:40 As a rookie gardener I gave compost tea (green x brown, no earthworms) to my okra and chayote. They developed gigantic and beautiful leaves but no flower ... thus no okras, no chayotes. Although some pests loved it. They just devoured the okra's leaves.
Thanks for your good advice. Many times.. watching youtube and thinking.. is it fake.. or.. thinking about everyone who goes on, and loses their roses... I am so grateful that I have you here on youtube, and I follow your good advice. I have tried to correct my friends on facebook when they ask about how to proceed with their roses. And it is not always popular, then they write that you should dig them up and throw them away and buy a new one.. Thanks to you, I am grateful for my roses. They have survived most of it. A very fruitful discussion. Thanks from Sweden.
I never soak my bareroot roses after they had been shipped to me over a period of a week. Never had any problems with them. Just planted them in in moist soil and they do great.
Planted a ton of roses - if I can plant pretty as soon as box arrives - I don't soak it - I plant it and then water heavily at time of planting - then every 3-4 days for a while
I’ve been using Superthrive for many years for roses and other new plantings. I have never had transplant shock when I’ve used it. And, when I’ve skipped it, I have sometimes had problems. Still anecdotal, I realize, but this has been my experience.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I hear lots about products like this and HB101 (a similarly hyped Japanese product) - but also other "soil conditioners" and "growth stimulators". My concern is that they go out of their way to avoid making or supporting specific claims about what they do and how they do it. Are they a fertilizer? Nope, because that's regulated and they'd have live up to labeling standards. Are they a pesticide? Nope, because then they'd have to prove efficacy. But if you can say something fuzzy like "reduces stress" or "improves nutrient uptake" they never have to back up their claims with research. My honest opinion is that a lot of companies are putting a low-value product into a bottle and relying on the real and well-known equivalent of the placebo effect to maintain a general impression of "improvement" without ever having to make a claim. Is Superthrive itself for real? I don't know. But it seems to me that if they were, they would have lifted a finger at some point in the last 80 years to support that with science.
Sure like your scientific approach to things. So many people have an anecdotal approach to methods not supported by evidence. Hold your tongue this way and you will hit a home run.
Guilty of leaving a DA rose in a pail of water for over a month, it got buried in behind some things in my garage and I found it and it was fine, it was growing leaves too!!! LOL It is doing fine in ground, I just gave it water and it is pushing new growth and buds.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Hi Jason @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm You Are Welcome and A Big Thank You To You Too For All The Help and Advice and The Beautiful Very Interesting Video Thank You So Much Jason @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm 👍👍🌹🌹❤️❤️
So I'm so excited about my 1 rose cultivation it's about 2.5 cm or 1" Can a steam do this and not make Roots Thanks again for all your help From both of you
Re: mulching. The issue is that the first year or two of "not mulching" you'll get crazy weeds. After that it sort of dies down a bit (pun intended?). In my experience anyway.
Bleach, a tiny bit in my big jug of tepid water when I am forcing blossoms & leaves in winter for church vases or gifts from all of my bushes which can take a good trim anytime & is not even noticeable in my gardens. Had been taught that the bleach creates some 'heat' that activates Spring like conditions within the hardwood branches. Been watching IV Organic vedios re. grafting techniques & a new kind of prune sealer is promoted. Maybe you want to check that out to consider this topic again. I'd be interested in your uptake at some point then.
If you are curious about validity of Epsom salt, look up Gardening in Canada’s video, she’s a soil scientist and reviewed studies about the use of epson salts for plants in general.
To my knowledge borers that attack crowns of plants, only do so to unhealthy stressed plants. I have seen this on my forsythia for example. This is different than rose borers. I have never found my roses to have crown damage, but many many times, have found borer damage to canes. Left long enough, they will eventually make it to the crown however. Since discovering this, I have become very careful to prune during cold weather our to use pruning sealer when cutting in warm weather.
Thanks for another great video! You really have to cut at a 45 degree angle ... if you are using a pruning knife, like people did until the end of the 19th century (try to make a straight cut with a knife!). New types of pruners came along, but the 45 degree advice kept being repeated, and still is. With my modern pruners I just cut whichever way I approach the stems. Making the smallest wound possible makes sense, but slows you down. Sealing the cut? I have never seen problems with my unsealed cuts. So, I am not going to fix it. This year some canes of some of my hybrid teas died back to just a few centimeters above the ground. Happily I planted the crown below ground level! Soaking? I soak the plant hole and water the rose afterwards. If that is not enough soaking ...? Never seen any problems with my newly planted roses. I once dug up a 'The Fairy' though, and put it in a bucket of water, put it somewhere and forgot about it. Apparently it rained enough to keep some water in the bucket and nine months later I stumbled over it and decided to put it in the ground. It's doing great!
I buy from Heirloom Roses, which is only 30 minutes from me. When they arrive bare root they are so fresh. I simply soak overnight in a bucket and in the ground they go. I use compost each season and mulch on top of that. I have very little problems with black spot because my formal rose garden has great airflow. Never tried epsom salts and compost tea seems like. waste of time when raining and watering compost is the same thing. I have over 100 roses so I have to go with whatever is fastest. Never worried about pruning angle or sealer. My roses have to perform or they go. It is like a game of survivor here. If a rose underperforms, I shovel prune with no guilt. 😂
Roses are beautiful, some are workhorses, the shrub variety, and showy in the garden. As of next spring, I won’t have any left in my garden. The last three will come out this fall. Deer just wait for the buds to form and neatly bite them off. Spray gets washed off by rain and overhead sprinklers. Black spot is always just around the corner. Even rabbits can reach the buds toward the bottom. Replacing them with Pugster Blue butterfly bushes, and caryopteris. Way too disappointing to see roses destroyed by either wildlife or disease.
I buy only potted roses, plant with compost, mulch and bury the rose by 2 inches in my zone 5b. I don't think the cutting angle makes a difference as long as you cut to an outward facing bud. I do not use any sealers. My roses are healthy and survives our cold winters.
Thanks for the interesting interview. I think that the roots disturb the breath from excess water and the roots do not like light. I wash the roots of the rose and plant it in the ground, water it, and give the rose shade for 2 weeks. shade for a new plant is very important, the sun dries the plant. (I plant a rose in the ground and give trichoderma and mycorrhiza)
@@FireflyOnTheMoon I wash the roots to inspect the roots, see the roots that need to be removed, and wash off the microflora that was formed during the storage of the rose.
Great to see you again! You look fantastic! I heard that planting with oatmeal will reduce transplant shock. I think I tried it once with no real results 😊 I learned to clean my tools between plants. I have heard people say to clean between each cut. I think that’s extreme unless pruning a known problem. But I will still try to keep from spreading problems as much as possible.
I always enjoy your collabs, I see you guys did this last year. Really appreciate the listenable content and I can't imagine anyone listening to the two of you and not smiling the whole time. Really powerful mood booster at the perfect time of year for that. Thanks again Jason, my garden-farming mentor.
Re: Compost teas. The problem is that it can mean anything from water steeped with wormcasting to a living inoculant with a 24hr expiry and details of its microflora in ppm. Both may have value, but both are basically called "compost teas" even though they work on different timelines and a different mechanism. I am in favour of both because both cost money and take effort. It seems if something is pricey, people will pay more attention. A bit cynical, maybe but all good if it works .
Right - it's pretty difficult to compare any research results because everyone is preparing something different. Sadly, I'm pretty sure people will pay high $$$ without giving it much scrutiny: www.gardenmyths.com/compost-tea/
Dr Elaine Ingham work may change your view on compost and compost teas. Her method is very precise and will produce consistent results. The compost tea is just a method to streatch your compost with the same benefits over bigger space. Quality compost is the key.
@@liudmilayershova6439 I was just about to type this. Dr Ingham is amazing. People misunderstand what compost tea actually is and what it actually does.
i agree that ornamentals dont need as much fertilizer and can still put on a good show, soil conditions permitting. it's a different ballgame when it comes to edible crops, which will rarely produce good sized veggies in good time, unless well fed. we made them this way. with regards to bananas and potassium, a well known chemistry youtuber did a good job extracting a tablespoon of potassium from something like 12 kilos of whole bananas, as most of the potassium is actually in the flesh. so definitely time not well spent to put banana peel around plants.
Thanks for your input Chris. There definitely seems to be some special popular ap-peel (pun intended!) to grocery items like bananas being repurposed for the garden, and I suppose that's fine. I just don't want to see new gardeners get tunnel-vision on things that don't matter to their success.
To soak or not to soak. Don’t forget to take into account the two of you are in very different climates. Just like watering after planting. On the west coast it may not be necessaryf if your ground is already saturated from our heavy fall to spring rains.
Thanks Maria. I copied and pasted those from one of my other videos and I must have truncated them along the way. The links are updated now and thanks again for letting me know
Very good video. I thought the Epton salt was not a good idea. I tried it once and almost killed my roses. What time of year do you add the alfalfa, Jason? I know you didn't talk about this. I tried it one year.
David Austin say to cover the crown - but the advice has changed over the decades. It says to soak bare roots for one to two hours and that is what I go with. - - - We should always be going with scientific method - which is always about referring to objective evidence - not anecdote. Let's study and see what the studies stay. - - - RRD can stand for "rose replant disease' (at least in the UK). Which is different from rose rosette disease and rose mosaic.
Okay I have two questions that weren't exactly addressed in this video. Concerning prune sealing: what about if you remove a sucker from the rootstock on a rose (below the graft) - I was told I should prune seal that to prevent anything in the soil (disease or insect) from going into the new wound that's in contact with the soil. Do I not need to do that? Second, one of the new roses I got as a bareroot had instructions that said to plant the graft 3 - 4" below the soil. I have never buried a crown below the surface, but I thought okay maybe this rose is more sensitive so I put it about 2 inches below the soil line (I did not feel comfortable going deeper tbh.) Is this going to cause harm? I didn't see you really mention any cons to that. I know a gardener came to my house a year or two ago saying that if I have any mulch against or over the crown of any bushes it would cause them to die. Wondering if I should I dig it up and lift it? And then if I should do that, do I wait until spring to do that to not re-disturb it again after just planting it? Not sure what to do.
Thanks. When I strip off the suckers I don't seal. I suppose I can understand the thinking behind it, but I've never found it necessary. Many, many gardeners plant deeper without negative consequences. As a personal preference I like to have the crown where I can see it, but I wouldn't encourage you to disturb the rose if it's otherwise doing well.
Thanks for an interesting talk. This isn't about planting, but i wonder if you are plagued by the terrible Chili Thrips. We are continally trying to get on top of them, they absolutely wreck the whole rose bushes. Nothing seems to work, so I'm hoping you have have an idea on how to get rid of them. Thanks again, Lorraine from Perth West Australia.
One of the go-to treatments I've heard about is Spinosad, a derivative of natural bacteria. It's still registered as a pesticide, but is generally less of an environmental concern than other treatments. There are natural predators too, but they have a hard time keeping up with a serious outbreak
I also wonder about how often I've read that cuttings in water have "water roots" and they are not the same as soil roots. This is meant to explain why something that has rooted well in water does not then transplant well into soil. IS this an actual fact about roots? If it is, that might explain why soaking roses for 2 weeks in water and having them start growing might be the same thing as rooting in water versus soil for cuttings. I will say that some things I rooted in water recently acted as if the root that grew in water was unrelated to roots in soil! Black eyed susan vines as the prime example, would only root at the very bottom of the cutting. Each made one long root but when put into pots they just died. When I tipped the dead leafless stems out of the pot, that lone bottom root would still be looking just fine....but would instantly fall off the now dead remains of the stem.
You have to wane them off of water. When you want to transfer cuttings that grow in water into a pot, you have to slowly add substrates to the water until you get to the consistency of soil/potting mix so the plant gets use to it.
Several 'how to' videos on the David Austin channel says to soak bare roots: 'for at least a half hour'. I don't understand the long soak recommendations for most bare root roses - (unless you're getting late season body bag roses that have sat on retail shelves for weeks/months).
Thanks. There's are so many versions of this age-old advice it would be hard to arbitrarily declare one right timing, and you're right - unless you're dealing with noticeably dried out roots it's hard to make the case for a long soak. We take in a couple thousand bare root roses every year and soak exactly 0% of them with good results. Any losses are due to poor (rotting) condition noted upon arrival.
Another great session. I lost over ten roses last winter for not mulching and for placing the bud union above the soil level in my zone 5 garden. Would mulching with compose encourage more weeds to grow as opposed to wood chips?
As a retired commercial rose grower my thoughts are when you mulch and cover the crown there is the risk that the rose bush will go on to its own roots. We always have the crown above an mulch so that this doesn’t happen, this is why the roses are graphed on hardy root stock but once the rose starts putting out it own root (the roots above the graft) the life of the bush is greatly reduced. It’s ok to mulch them up during the dormant stage but not during the growth stage.
Somewhat. It may not turn out to be a serious issue for the casual home gardener, but it does come into play for commercial growers that the microbes related to successive crops of roses "build up" in the soil and stunt young roses.
Valid! If the goal is to rehydrate the roots a deep watering after planting will do the job. TBH for some suppliers/roots it's a non-issue because they arrive plump and obviously hydrated.
I would also love to know your opinion of using micorrhiza when planting new roses. I haven't seen any difference, but it seems to be all the rage right now.
There's some evidence to support its use, but I don't routinely add it. The one scenario I think I might is when dealing with specific replant disease - planting a young rose in the spot where an older established rose was rooted.
There are so many pieces of advice I have heard regarding roses. One tidbit I was told was never plant a rose in the grave of a dead rose. I do that all the time, as long as the rose didn't appear to have something like Mosiac or Crown Gall. I just amend the soil and replace with a new rose.
Hi Jason, I also live in greater Vancouver (N. Delta) and have some old HT roses along the back of our house. I am very much into composting, vermicomposting etc. which I try to add onto my rose beds every year. But I would very much like to get a soil test done to better understand the "health" of the soil around the roses. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can go to have a budget-friendly test done? Also wondering if HT roses have a limited lifespan? We have lived here for 20+ yrs. and my roses don't seem to put out vigorous new canes from the crown anymore. Is there a method that might stimulate the roses to do that, such as mulching or placing compost higher up on the crowns. maybe my roses just don't get enough full sun. The bed faces SE so in mid summer the house shades the plants from 2 to 3 o'clock onwards. Have watched many of you videos........keep up the great work. Hope 2024 is a great year for you. thanks, Harry
Thanks. Sadly I haven't found a really affordable option in the lower mainland. I think Terralink is around $50 per sample, and if you follow the recommendations of some for soil testing, you'd want to take samples from multiple places in the yard to account for soil differences. "They" also recommend updating the tests every couple of years to see what's changing. If you follow the recommendations, then, you'd be spending $150 every second year to manage fertilizer applications that will probably cost less than the testing! You can't go too far wrong though with applications of compost, alfalfa and other organic amendments - which tend to replace the major and minor nutrients at roughly the proportion plants need, and do so while improving the soil. Grafted roses do tend to build up scar tissue around the graft union and become less productive over time. Own-root roses can keep performing well much longer if maintained. Mor sun is generally welcome, and don't be afraid to take a heavier hand in pruning if you want to encourage stronger branching down low.
Thanks Jason for answering so quickly.....wasn't expecting that! I will check out Terralink's website for more info. I agree that just adding compost and my worm castings will be good for the garden. in fact I think the soil has already improved in the last few years since I started adding fresh lawn clippings as a mulch around the roses. They are always completely gone by the end of the summer. Re the roses themselves I might try to be brave and prune them back a little further this year. I should have figured out how to attach a couple of photos so you could see the condition they're in. Thanks again for the advice. Harry @@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Hi Jason , really off topic but I was wondering what your input would be regarding soil amendments. The Land and Sea is so expensive, wouldn’t fish emulsion work in the same way? Really enjoy your info in your videos.
You really have to engage your critical thinking on amendments - I haven't used "Land and Sea" specifically, but I always apply same questions: what's it supposed to do? What's in it that is supposed to provide the benefit? Is there proof of the claims? And finally, even if there is, is this a good value for money? It looks like it's composted wood products, peat & lime for pH adjustment for the most part. All of these are common potting soil ingredients. It's hard to know what they specifically mean by humus because the term is used loosely and incorrectly all the time. Crab & lobster meal and interesting, but probably in the product in small amounts (listed last). I've seen some decent research that the chitosan in lobster or crab meal can have benefits, but without knowing how much is in the product, it's hard to say how much (if any) of a premium you should pay for the product. I'd be tempted to buy a lower cost potting soil and add my own crab meal amendment because I'd probably get a better bang for my buck.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I visited a fishing community (Newfoundland, Canada) couple years back and I purchased from a fisherman some lobsters at his residence. Anyways, I noticed his soil where he grew veggies and it was very rich looking, unlike a lot of soils I have seen. I asked him what he does with. He said he puts fish scraps and lobsters (extras) in the soil. I wish I had a picture. My point is soils benefit from organic matter, and although some would say it brings the rats, man, it does wonders for the soil.
Not generally a fan. Applying pesticides as part of the feeding program may seem like a good preventive measure, but my criticism is that it's not very targeted. That is, if there are no serious pest threats, you're applying pesticides to the plant and environment anyway. If there is a serious pest threat, you're always applying the same thing at the same rate, thus increasing the chances of pesticide resistance. Finally, because it's all formulated together, you're applying only one particular NPK formulation. It'd be a different discussion about "how on earth would the fertilizer manufacturer know what nutrients I need in my soil?" but really, it does take the one-size-fits-all (but fits no one very well!) approach to the max.
It's your call Melanie - but it's usually a more serious concern in colder climates. I'm in zone 8 as well, and usually I plant with the crown just about flush with the soil level.
Hi how do you suggest I revive my 20+year old climbing rose , I always trim it down every fall, but the flowers are getting weaker and it’s prone to leaf hoppers , any help would be useful thank you
Hi Lynne. I might delay major pruning until spring instead of fall. Overall review of conditions: enough sun, soil test for proper fert levels, consistent watering. It's true that sometimes older (especially grafted) roses can go into decline after a long time in the garden, so it's hard to say if you can turn it around, but always worth looking at the basics.
The angle cut never made sense to me. I'm pretty sure the sun and wind will dry out the open cut. Besides, I'm already trying not to get poke by the thorns. Buy a hybrid. My vine's a tree and it still blooms. Don't have issues with bugs, and in Hawaii, that's rare. I'll admit, I neglect this rose. I think it's an introvert. It don't like the attention and it's fine. Fertilizer? I don't remember the last time I gave it. My take on this video, it's knowing your climate, soil and type of rose. Sad to say, I don't know the name of my hybrid rose.
It’s funny, these myths is all around the place, I’ve heard them in Sweden also. But I have another question that I haven’t been able to figure it out. It’s about US zones and how I could apply it in my climate. I have really mild winters. Often around 0 Celsius with occasional dips some nights down to -8 to -10 degrees Celsius. Sometimes snow for a couple of days but mostly rain. I live on an island (the island of limestone and roses) so we have cold springs and warm long falls, last frost date April 15, first frost date November 1. By just looking at that, great, I can plant almost everything! But summers are “mild” too, about 22 to 28 degrees Celsius, with occasional periods of 30 to 33 degrees Celsius. So heat living plants doesn’t thrive because of that. What US zone should you set on my climate?
Somewhere in the range of zone 8. The same as here. The USDA climate zones are really more focused on winter survival - and won't tell you a lot on their own about what heat plants need or will tolerate.
The strangest myth that I have recently heard is that roses "like meat" so if one finds a dead bird, one should bury it near a rose (?????). Perhaps the rose is going to benefit from such a burial after the body has decomposed completely. What do you think, Mr Fraser?
I wouldn't go out of my way to bury meat near my roses - besides, the local skunks and racoons will likely just dig it back up again. There are better ways to supplement organic matter and the rose can't tell the difference between nutrients from meat or not.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I couldn't agree more. I think the lady who shared "the secret" to growing roses with me has no idea that the local foxes and other predators are bound to benefit from the meat first (and last ;-)). Her garden is not fenced off, btw.
If you live an an area where it wouldn't draw problems, burying meat or fish would be a good idea - just the same as using "fish, blood and bone meal". Using meal is easier, but in nature decomposing bodies and their remains would normally be everywhere, if humans didn't remove them. They return important nutrients to the soil, like manure.
@@FireflyOnTheMoon Yes, that's true, but decomposing takes time. An animal's body is not accessible to a plant unless a number of processes take place first. Plants (with a few exceptions) cannot "digest" meat, as you certainly know. Cheers!
All I can say Jason, is that I'm glad I dont live in the US or Canada, with all the bugs you talk about. Here in Oz we don't have them and we can be very thankful for all the work our Govt through Customs, does to protect our gardening environment.
I spent about £1000 on David Austin roses, and followed their advice to plant the crown below the surface. I live in the cold North of England, with clay soil. Almost all of them rotted away. There were a few I planted at or slightly above soil level, and these have grown vigorously and are still alive. I will never buy their roses again for their poor advice. Such a lot of money thrown away. I suggest plant them AT soil level, maybe slightly above if you intend to mulch if you live in areas with cold or wet winters.
That's rough! It really does go down to the point of one-size-doesn't-fit-all - I'm sure burying the crown is good advice for cold climates with excellent drainage, but I have a heavy soil with lots of winter wet (and mild-ish winters), so I like to have that crown up at or near surface level.
Interesting point - and I think it's useful to imagine these shrubs in their natural environment without all the fuss. But then you also have to take into account that we're dealing with a cultivated (even domesticated) plant with different breeding and goals than wild roses. Who changes the shoes on wild horses? Who daily milks the wild cattle? There's all sorts of things we do for garden roses that wouldn't be offered in nature - pruning for a more open shape, deadheading, fertilizing for improved growth and blooms, supplemental irrigation. You can find wonderful wild roses thriving on the most difficult dry slopes with alkaline soil, but they're generally single petaled, once-blooming, and TBH often a bit scrubby or brambly in form. To your point, I've never seen much of a risk of mulch against the base of a rose, but I wouldn't argue against local experience either.
Two of the best people to get advice from. Both of you speak so well to roses and in everyday language. I love how you keep it simple and seem to grow roses because you simply love roses. It reflects what most of us feel.
Thanks so much Barbara!
I do agree. Jason thanks for sharing great knowledge
You both care about precious roses. Roses share and shower people with beauty. My elder neighbors drive by my front yard and slowly drive by. I think they see beauty. Roses. You two share beauty to others. You have a talent. We appreciate you.
Excellent topics on growing roses. I struggled to find solutions suitable for my condition, years of getting conflicting information is very frustrating. You two are my go to rose gurus who always have decent thoughts and knowledge to help me grow better roses.Thank you, Jason and Kim.🤩🙌
I live in Tucson, Az and use cedar mulch -about 8” thick! Today it’s 107 degrees and they look stunning. Us in the desert need to keep roots cooler!
2. Wow. I always cut any plant at a 45. I seal with glue or cinnamon depending on the houseplant, bush, etc
3. Heat stressed plants respond well to B1.
😮really? Malaysia is like ....so hot rite now due to El Nino & some of my roses are pretty stressed up.
I just water it more. Waterblasting it to reduce the drought stress.
If B1 is effective. I'd like to try it😊
Thanks.
Go Organic!
I didn't mulch my roses for the first 6 years of growing them, and they either died or the grafts died during winter, and I had to keep replacing them, soon as I mulched them, we had the coldest winter in a long time and they all survived. So through trial and error I'd have to say mulch helped out alot.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Gardening is like cooking. If you try to implement all the ideas flying around about the preparation of food, and growing plants, you'd have nervous breakdowns in your kitchen and garden. Here in Grand Rapids, Michigan, I use a lot of mulch, and winterize my roses with chicken wire cages filled with leaves. I won't remove it until late in April, even the first week in May, if the weather is bad. People here tend to prune a lot in fall, whereas I only prune lightly. This way I have lots of good canes to start with in spring. Thanks so much for teaming up with Kimberly to address these ideas.
Thanks for sharing your overwinter method!
My 2 favorite rose celebrities! 🤩💥💫
Mine as well!
Yay🎉🎉🎉🎉 2 of my favorite smarties💐❤️💐
During the winter I don‘t soak bare roots prior to planting, because the water in the roots can expand after planting if it gets freezing cold during the night. This can damage the roots. Except one, all of the roses I have planted without soaking have survived and are as strong and healthy as the ones that were soaked.
In warmer periods I usually soak bare rooted roses for about 6-8 hours or over night, but if I „forget“ them in their bath and leave them there for another day it doesn’t hurt them. I never let them soak for a week or two though 😅
I love Kordes roses too, by the way 😊 Greetings from Germany!
Thanks for sharing your insights!
I use alfalfa pellets in early spring and all my plants like it. Being doing this for years! Keep it simple! Less is more.
Thanks both of you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I was just about to go outside and pot up a bare root Angel Face rose I got on clearance for $5. Perfect timing!
"I start out default skeptical" You just became my favourite RUclips gardener. :) Folks need to remember that correlation does not equal causation. For soaking bare root roses, I could see the need varying depending on your climate. If I'm planting in the Lower Mainland of BC (near where Jason gardens, if I plant now, it's likely going to rain 4 of the next 7 days and continue in that pattern until July, so the rose isn't going to lack moisture. For pruning, Georgie on Common Farm says that because she has so many roses, she sometimes uses hedge trimmers!!
Thanks Candace! Yes, I always think of the hedge trimmer people when I hear all this fuss about angles and outward-facing buds. There's definitely some advantage to pruning for size, shape, thinning and removal of damaged/diseased stems, but after that the plant has a mind of its own. And no, we're sure not going to lack soil moisture for the next while!
I start out skeptical too
In my opinion soil testing is the key that unlocks the mystery of whether or not you need to add ANYTHING to your soil. ❄️💚🙃
Yep.even the home tests help.
Trust your eyes and memory, if your plants grow well and meet your expectations then your golden!
I want to start doing soil testing, but I have a formula of stuff that I’ve been adding to my soil regularly, mixed in and toppers, and most everything just seems super happy. Key seems to be big variety of stuff plus mycorrhizae at the roots at time of planting … I use kelp meal, azomite, alfalfa, a couple pinches of epsom and sea salt for iodine, and charcoal that I crush myself and add to compost and let simmer for 6 months … but that mychorizae does wonders. I want to start using sardines in my planting holes and see what happens. I used to use blood meal but it attracts cats and other critters and they flock to my planters and uproot stuff. I only use that because I still have a bag, but now I only use it deep down in the soil only, as I will for when I get around to the sardine trick. Or for a few of my urban clients planters.
I've I've boughten bare-root roses from Home Depot, and from Lowe's, and I had never soaked them I did not know that we were supposed to soak them I will just take them out of the packaging dig a hole , I'll fill the hole with water and then fill it up with dirt and they have grown fine.
Thanks Jason, as always a lot of great information. Now if I can just remember everything. I have big problems growing roses BUT I’m not giving up.❄️💚🙃
Kimberly and Jason,
This is a great conversation.
The most important bit of information is...
Know your area!
Whether you have lived there for years or are new to the area, it is vital to know the soil composition, climate conditions, and general overall climate your plants are going to live in.
These three elements will determine the life cycle of pests, biological beneficials, plant growing patterns and behavior, water, nutrition, and every other thing that will determine what you need for success.
The depth of planting will be determined mainly by the time of year and region when planting. If you are early in the safe planting season you will want to typically match the depth the plant was originally at. However, you both mentioned and I agree as well that being able to observe new plants growing habits will greatly improve their overall success.
I prefer to plant all new roses about a fingers thickness below the highest roots, allowing the rest of the plant to be above ground until the new growth begins to appear and then I can make whatever adjustments after that. For my growing area, I will never be concerned with sub-zero temperatures, so crown protection and severe weather precautions are not a part of my growing concerns; however, high winds, driving rain, and high mountain misty air, are.
This region is a new growing experience for me, so there is a great deal of observation and planning as I see things develop and watch for evidence of things I am concerned might develop.
Keeping garden tools clean is just a healthy practice that should be done all the time.
If I were a chef or a surgeon I'm pretty sure everyone would expect me to keep my hands and tools clean and the garden is really no different.😉
Soil testing is a necessary part of knowing just how healthy your growing environment is. We have physical examinations every few years to make sure we maintain a healthy body and the same applies to our growing spaces. We often try to avoid it, but that examination puts us at ease once it's done and if something is found it is treated right away.
I am considered barbaric by rose enthusiasts because I actually do very little for roses unless they tell me they need something. As long as the soil is healthy and balanced and they have the water they need, they are pretty much on their own. I do add a little fresh potting soil around them every other year as a fortifier, but they really don't need a lot of attention.
My climate is quite mild, so as the roses grow I will need to prune more often depending on what type of roses they are and just how big I want them to be, but that is about it.
One thing about pruning, the canes don't grow straight, so even if you cut them straight they will always be angled anyway, just sayin.😜😁
As a grower and coffee producer, here is a thought about soaking root plants.
When I process coffee, the freshly pulped beans are soaked for about 12-14 hours or basically overnight to ferment and then they are rinsed and spread out to dry.
If it only takes 12-14 hours to ferment those coffee beans how long do you suppose it will take to start fermenting the roots of a plant?
I personally soak roots for as little as necessary just to allow moisture saturation, but not more than 4 hours.
A 2x4 of lumber will be fully wet all the way through if soaked overnight when it's completely dried out. Another little thought.🤔
Wonderful information.👌
Thank you both.🤙
Thanks! Good points on both rehydrating dry lumber and fermenting coffee beans. I suspect there's a little bit of human psychology that plays into the way these folk-remedies develop. If an hour long soak was helpful, why not overnight? If overnight was helpful, can I get a little more out of 24 hours? If 24 hours was helpful, maybe I can get a little "extra" out of 48 hours... and so on. The original idea was to solve a specific problem: dried out roots. If the roots aren't dried out, or they can be rehydrated in 1 hour, any extra isn't helpful.
I liked what Kimberley said about "being your own Head Gardener" and not deferring to someone else for expertise. You're in the best position to observe the plants, the soil, the climate, the pests. I hope I don't hurt anyone's feelings with this next comment: it drives me a little batty when people reach out to me (they're generally reaching Lisa by email) wanting me to decide which plants they should grow or to guide them personally through one or another gardening challenge.
I try to be as understanding as I can, but the real point of these videos is to encourage gardeners to think about "why it works" and to examine different approaches so that they can apply it to their own situation.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Exactly right.
I share my experiences here in the comments to encourage people to take a closer look in their own growing spaces to identify their own particular differences because that is the specific information that will lead to bigger successes for their own growing experience.
The lead-me-by-the-hand questions can become tedious, but I prefer to respond with questions that will help them realize that they are able to determine that information themselves.
Of course some are just looking for the easy answer and will be dissatisfied with whatever answer you give.
The old horse to water adage will always be true because when you have the information in front of you, but refuse to use it, you will always gain nothing.
Some will, some won't, and some will argue it's the wrong kind.😜
One thing is for sure, this channel provides more information to be a success in your growing experience than any other out there.
Between the content and comments, the wealth of knowledge here is amazing!👌🤙
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm You are right on with your logical advice. It is appreciated.
This was an amazing discussion and I’ve never grown a rose. These are questions I have or would have had once I get one. Please do more of these, or even just conversations with other growers. So informative and interesting.
Muchas gracias valiosa información me encanta sus temas muy bien explicados
I have planted bare root roses and I never soaked them in the water and some of it I can’t plant right away because of busy schedule so after I received it I left it in its packaging in my garage for 4 days and then I planted it and now I after 3 months it’s blooming really good and so are my other roses I planted years ago with no soaking with water.
Great list! The only things I add is some fertilizer and some soil mycorrhizae, beneficial soil bacteria, and sometimes root stimulants. As for mulch, I heard it was because of their propensity to attract mold, which can be taken care of with a zinc oxide misting spray.
There is an old book I have called "Hunger Signs in Crops" which shows how plants and leaves appear when deficient in a particular nutrient. I highly recommend it!
Mr. D. Where can you find that book, “hunger signs and crops”
I never cut my rose stems at a 45 degree angle they always did well but one day years ago I seen on TV that you were supposed to I really haven't seen a difference. When pruning I had never sealed the stems. I lost a rose it was a Victorian it was 40 years old do to 21 days of rain it died. Professionally I'm a veggie and fruit grower so roses are not my expertise I have learnt so much from your channel I now do lots of grafting and rooting of roses I really enjoy it. The problem I have with my roses is it looks like they get powdery mildew
Thanks Pamela.
This was WONDERFUL! I just looked up my extension office to get a soil test. I’m newly obsessed with roses and this was extremely helpful.
ALSO, This was great and I appreciate the longer format.
re: soaking bare roots in water and having them fail. I have tried rooting stems (not roses) in water. They grow roots and live on water. A friend advised that a means of "teaching" them to live in soil is to add a tsp. of soil to the water daily (more obviously if a large bucket), and those roots "learn" to take up nutrients from the soil which eventually becomes like mud. Then transplant them into soil.... Makes sense and it worked for me, however I don't usually let the roots develop so far now before putting them into soil.. and I do more propagations from cuttings.
Thanks Jason for all that you do!
Good conversation.
Ill have to research some of the diseases you spoke about, & view pics of them, so I'll know them when I see them.
Thank for your time
You guys should get together in a year and check your advice to each other. Really good synergy. Thanks
Muchísimas gracias a los 2 por lo instructivo de este video y por compartir con nosotros sus experiencias y conocimientos.
En mi caso, sólo quiero tener hermosos rosales en mi jardín.
Vivo en América del Sur, La Plata, Argentina 🇦🇷 y la información de este video me es muy útil.
Saludos cordiales!
¡Estoy tan feliz de que hayas encontrado útil la conversación! Suerte con tus rosas
I loved this video, as I enjoy and learn from all your videos. Thank you.
That’s interesting that all Rose Geek roses died after two weeks soaking. I received 30 DA roses in the mail before our new house was completed and I left them in a wheelbarrow of water for two weeks. Then I had to pot them up because again my landscape beds were not ready and they all did amazing. They did get a few new shoots in the wheelbarrow but none of them really opened up or anything. Now I had some Jackson Perkins bear root that did not do as well soaking in water. Now they also came later in the season versus March. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. They did struggle and I had to feed them Epson salts, which was recommended by Jackson and Perkins, and they did come back!
Thanks. Experience will definitely vary on soaking, but I don't see how an extended period is justified. Surely any seriously dehydrated roots will only need overnight, and if they're not noticeably dry, I can't see how it's helpful.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I think it really had less to do with being helpful, it just might not be hurtful if you receive them in mail and can’t get them in the ground for whatever reason, it’s OK to soak them for extended period if you had to. I think hearing hers died would worry a lot of people, I’m just saying mine did great 😊
Thanks Lisa Monique. I've heard anecdotes from both sides - people who swear by soaking bare roots, and others who have been disappointed. I'm glad yours turned out fine! I do go back to the topic of whether soaking is justified or beneficial at all because that was the topic of the video: evaluating common rose care facts and myths. One of those persistent myths (IMO) is that a gardener should or must soak their bare roots for a prescribed amount of time before planting. Usually the recommendation is overnight or for 24 hours, which I could see some sense in because perhaps the roots could be dehydrated after transport, and a short soak is not likely to cause any harm. As for a longer soak (or medium to long-term storage) I'm inclined to warn it off for the same reasons you wouldn't want most garden plants to live in poorly drained soil over winter: lack of oxygen around the roots for an extended period can lead to rot. Thanks for sharing your experience on it!
My hybrid tea roses were planted slightly above the ground and it got frost bites over the winter. So last year I had to dig it up and plant it couple inches below the soil and it overwintered much better. I think its a more vulnerable kind.
This is the best Q and A on Roses I've heard. Thanks Jason and Kimberley.
29:40 As a rookie gardener I gave compost tea (green x brown, no earthworms) to my okra and chayote. They developed gigantic and beautiful leaves but no flower ... thus no okras, no chayotes. Although some pests loved it. They just devoured the okra's leaves.
Try banana peels for potassium & eggshells for calcium. It worked on my red okras a long time ago😊
Good luck!
Mulch tends to keep the roses from freezing at the ball or crown in the PNW
Thanks for addressing the angle and innie or outtie! I just heard about this recently and there is no way I am going to do that!!
Thanks for your good advice. Many times.. watching youtube and thinking.. is it fake.. or.. thinking about everyone who goes on, and loses their roses... I am so grateful that I have you here on youtube, and I follow your good advice. I have tried to correct my friends on facebook when they ask about how to proceed with their roses. And it is not always popular, then they write that you should dig them up and throw them away and buy a new one.. Thanks to you, I am grateful for my roses. They have survived most of it. A very fruitful discussion. Thanks from Sweden.
Thanks so much for your support and encouragement Annicka!
I never soak my bareroot roses after they had been shipped to me over a period of a week. Never had any problems with them. Just planted them in in moist soil and they do great.
Good to hear. Thanks Barbara
Very practical informations thank you
Planted a ton of roses - if I can plant pretty as soon as box arrives - I don't soak it - I plant it and then water heavily at time of planting - then every 3-4 days for a while
I soaked my bareroot roses for 3 hours this year and they are all doing fine so far! (Leafing out nicely)
I have inherited a rose bush had to cut it to try to control it a little now I do not get blooms. So I will mulch and feed it real good this year.
I’ve been using Superthrive for many years for roses and other new plantings. I have never had transplant shock when I’ve used it. And, when I’ve skipped it, I have sometimes had problems. Still anecdotal, I realize, but this has been my experience.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I hear lots about products like this and HB101 (a similarly hyped Japanese product) - but also other "soil conditioners" and "growth stimulators". My concern is that they go out of their way to avoid making or supporting specific claims about what they do and how they do it. Are they a fertilizer? Nope, because that's regulated and they'd have live up to labeling standards. Are they a pesticide? Nope, because then they'd have to prove efficacy. But if you can say something fuzzy like "reduces stress" or "improves nutrient uptake" they never have to back up their claims with research.
My honest opinion is that a lot of companies are putting a low-value product into a bottle and relying on the real and well-known equivalent of the placebo effect to maintain a general impression of "improvement" without ever having to make a claim. Is Superthrive itself for real? I don't know. But it seems to me that if they were, they would have lifted a finger at some point in the last 80 years to support that with science.
Sure like your scientific approach to things. So many people have an anecdotal approach to methods not supported by evidence. Hold your tongue this way and you will hit a home run.
Guilty of leaving a DA rose in a pail of water for over a month, it got buried in behind some things in my garage and I found it and it was fine, it was growing leaves too!!! LOL It is doing fine in ground, I just gave it water and it is pushing new growth and buds.
Phew - that's a relief!
I'm so happy 😊 that your numbers are growing by leaps and bounds! Congratulations! I live in the Okanagan zone 5.
Thanks so much Deb! I'm hoping to get up the Naramata for a video this summer
Hi Jason @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm Thank You So Much for the Beautiful Very interesting Video @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm 👍👍🌹🌹❤️❤️
Thanks so much Annie
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Hi Jason @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm You Are Welcome and A Big Thank You To You Too For All The Help and Advice and The Beautiful Very Interesting Video Thank You So Much Jason @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm 👍👍🌹🌹❤️❤️
I really appreciate these videos, I always wonder about all these miracle methods.
So I'm so excited about my 1 rose cultivation it's about 2.5 cm or 1"
Can a steam do this and not make Roots
Thanks again for all your help
From both of you
Yes, it can definitely shoot without rooting - but time will tell.
Re: mulching. The issue is that the first year or two of "not mulching" you'll get crazy weeds. After that it sort of dies down a bit (pun intended?). In my experience anyway.
Thanks Alex.
Bleach, a tiny bit in my big jug of tepid water when I am forcing blossoms & leaves in winter for church vases or gifts from all of my bushes which can take a good trim anytime & is not even noticeable in my gardens. Had been taught that the bleach creates some 'heat' that activates Spring like conditions within the hardwood branches.
Been watching IV Organic vedios re. grafting techniques & a new kind of prune sealer is promoted. Maybe you want to check that out to consider this topic again. I'd be interested in your uptake at some point then.
I HAVE to be friends with these people. It was a convo I felt part of
If you are curious about validity of Epsom salt, look up Gardening in Canada’s video, she’s a soil scientist and reviewed studies about the use of epson salts for plants in general.
To my knowledge borers that attack crowns of plants, only do so to unhealthy stressed plants. I have seen this on my forsythia for example. This is different than rose borers. I have never found my roses to have crown damage, but many many times, have found borer damage to canes. Left long enough, they will eventually make it to the crown however. Since discovering this, I have become very careful to prune during cold weather our to use pruning sealer when cutting in warm weather.
Thanks for another great video!
You really have to cut at a 45 degree angle ... if you are using a pruning knife, like people did until the end of the 19th century (try to make a straight cut with a knife!). New types of pruners came along, but the 45 degree advice kept being repeated, and still is. With my modern pruners I just cut whichever way I approach the stems. Making the smallest wound possible makes sense, but slows you down.
Sealing the cut? I have never seen problems with my unsealed cuts. So, I am not going to fix it.
This year some canes of some of my hybrid teas died back to just a few centimeters above the ground. Happily I planted the crown below ground level!
Soaking? I soak the plant hole and water the rose afterwards. If that is not enough soaking ...? Never seen any problems with my newly planted roses. I once dug up a 'The Fairy' though, and put it in a bucket of water, put it somewhere and forgot about it. Apparently it rained enough to keep some water in the bucket and nine months later I stumbled over it and decided to put it in the ground. It's doing great!
Thanks for sharing your experience Johannes. I hadn't heard that origin on the 45 degree cut before... interesting.
"You really have to cut at a 45 degree angle". Why?
Mulching with wood chips have done well for my roses ,they do not have black spots or yellow leaves .
Fantastic video.
Nice, really informative Jason 👍
I soak the bare rooted for couple of hours in fungicide, humic acid and rooting harmone (cutting aid) mild solution then go ahead and plant
Thanks for sharing your method
@@FraserValleyRoseFarmplease give yours opinion on it
I buy from Heirloom Roses, which is only 30 minutes from me. When they arrive bare root they are so fresh. I simply soak overnight in a bucket and in the ground they go. I use compost each season and mulch on top of that. I have very little problems with black spot because my formal rose garden has great airflow. Never tried epsom salts and compost tea seems like. waste of time when raining and watering compost is the same thing. I have over 100 roses so I have to go with whatever is fastest. Never worried about pruning angle or sealer. My roses have to perform or they go. It is like a game of survivor here. If a rose underperforms, I shovel prune with no guilt. 😂
Thanks for sharing your techniques Mary - I'm going to try to get down to Heirloom for a visit this year!
Roses are beautiful, some are workhorses, the shrub variety, and showy in the garden. As of next spring, I won’t have any left in my garden. The last three will come out this fall. Deer just wait for the buds to form and neatly bite them off. Spray gets washed off by rain and overhead sprinklers. Black spot is always just around the corner. Even rabbits can reach the buds toward the bottom. Replacing them with Pugster Blue butterfly bushes, and caryopteris. Way too disappointing to see roses destroyed by either wildlife or disease.
I buy only potted roses, plant with compost, mulch and bury the rose by 2 inches in my zone 5b. I don't think the cutting angle makes a difference as long as you cut to an outward facing bud. I do not use any sealers. My roses are healthy and survives our cold winters.
Thanks for the interesting interview.
I think that the roots disturb the breath from excess water and the roots do not like light.
I wash the roots of the rose and plant it in the ground, water it, and give the rose shade for 2 weeks. shade for a new plant is very important, the sun dries the plant. (I plant a rose in the ground and give trichoderma and mycorrhiza)
Thanks for sharing your method Vasily - sounds like a good planting routine.
Why wash the roots?
@@FireflyOnTheMoon I wash the roots to inspect the roots, see the roots that need to be removed, and wash off the microflora that was formed during the storage of the rose.
Great lesson.
Great to see you again! You look fantastic! I heard that planting with oatmeal will reduce transplant shock. I think I tried it once with no real results 😊 I learned to clean my tools between plants. I have heard people say to clean between each cut. I think that’s extreme unless pruning a known problem. But I will still try to keep from spreading problems as much as possible.
I always enjoy your collabs, I see you guys did this last year. Really appreciate the listenable content and I can't imagine anyone listening to the two of you and not smiling the whole time. Really powerful mood booster at the perfect time of year for that. Thanks again Jason, my garden-farming mentor.
Thanks so much!
Re: Compost teas. The problem is that it can mean anything from water steeped with wormcasting to a living inoculant with a 24hr expiry and details of its microflora in ppm. Both may have value, but both are basically called "compost teas" even though they work on different timelines and a different mechanism.
I am in favour of both because both cost money and take effort. It seems if something is pricey, people will pay more attention. A bit cynical, maybe but all good if it works .
Right - it's pretty difficult to compare any research results because everyone is preparing something different. Sadly, I'm pretty sure people will pay high $$$ without giving it much scrutiny: www.gardenmyths.com/compost-tea/
Dr Elaine Ingham work may change your view on compost and compost teas. Her method is very precise and will produce consistent results. The compost tea is just a method to streatch your compost with the same benefits over bigger space. Quality compost is the key.
@@liudmilayershova6439 I was just about to type this. Dr Ingham is amazing. People misunderstand what compost tea actually is and what it actually does.
Thanks!
i agree that ornamentals dont need as much fertilizer and can still put on a good show, soil conditions permitting. it's a different ballgame when it comes to edible crops, which will rarely produce good sized veggies in good time, unless well fed. we made them this way.
with regards to bananas and potassium, a well known chemistry youtuber did a good job extracting a tablespoon of potassium from something like 12 kilos of whole bananas, as most of the potassium is actually in the flesh. so definitely time not well spent to put banana peel around plants.
Thanks for your input Chris. There definitely seems to be some special popular ap-peel (pun intended!) to grocery items like bananas being repurposed for the garden, and I suppose that's fine. I just don't want to see new gardeners get tunnel-vision on things that don't matter to their success.
Best to give them the best drink of life .Once planted never again such a good drink. One day plant then before dark
To soak or not to soak. Don’t forget to take into account the two of you are in very different climates. Just like watering after planting. On the west coast it may not be necessaryf if your ground is already saturated from our heavy fall to spring rains.
🌹Excellent topic and collaboration!! Can't wait for Part 2. Note on the side... your 2 links on NPK do not work.🌹
Thanks Maria. I copied and pasted those from one of my other videos and I must have truncated them along the way. The links are updated now and thanks again for letting me know
I don't soak my roses. I didn't even know people did that. I usually plant it and keep it well watered until it starts looking alive again.
Very good video. I thought the Epton salt was not a good idea. I tried it once and almost killed my roses. What time of year do you add the alfalfa, Jason? I know you didn't talk about this. I tried it one year.
Thanks Rodney. Lat winter, just as the buds are beginning to shoot. Might even be the same time as your spring pruning.
David Austin say to cover the crown - but the advice has changed over the decades. It says to soak bare roots for one to two hours and that is what I go with. - - - We should always be going with scientific method - which is always about referring to objective evidence - not anecdote. Let's study and see what the studies stay. - - - RRD can stand for "rose replant disease' (at least in the UK). Which is different from rose rosette disease and rose mosaic.
Okay I have two questions that weren't exactly addressed in this video.
Concerning prune sealing: what about if you remove a sucker from the rootstock on a rose (below the graft) - I was told I should prune seal that to prevent anything in the soil (disease or insect) from going into the new wound that's in contact with the soil. Do I not need to do that?
Second, one of the new roses I got as a bareroot had instructions that said to plant the graft 3 - 4" below the soil. I have never buried a crown below the surface, but I thought okay maybe this rose is more sensitive so I put it about 2 inches below the soil line (I did not feel comfortable going deeper tbh.) Is this going to cause harm? I didn't see you really mention any cons to that. I know a gardener came to my house a year or two ago saying that if I have any mulch against or over the crown of any bushes it would cause them to die. Wondering if I should I dig it up and lift it? And then if I should do that, do I wait until spring to do that to not re-disturb it again after just planting it? Not sure what to do.
Thanks. When I strip off the suckers I don't seal. I suppose I can understand the thinking behind it, but I've never found it necessary. Many, many gardeners plant deeper without negative consequences. As a personal preference I like to have the crown where I can see it, but I wouldn't encourage you to disturb the rose if it's otherwise doing well.
Thanks for an interesting talk. This isn't about planting, but i wonder if you are plagued by the terrible Chili Thrips. We are continally trying to get on top of them, they absolutely wreck the whole rose bushes. Nothing seems to work, so I'm hoping you have have an idea on how to get rid of them. Thanks again, Lorraine from Perth West Australia.
One of the go-to treatments I've heard about is Spinosad, a derivative of natural bacteria. It's still registered as a pesticide, but is generally less of an environmental concern than other treatments. There are natural predators too, but they have a hard time keeping up with a serious outbreak
I also wonder about how often I've read that cuttings in water have "water roots" and they are not the same as soil roots. This is meant to explain why something that has rooted well in water does not then transplant well into soil. IS this an actual fact about roots? If it is, that might explain why soaking roses for 2 weeks in water and having them start growing might be the same thing as rooting in water versus soil for cuttings.
I will say that some things I rooted in water recently acted as if the root that grew in water was unrelated to roots in soil! Black eyed susan vines as the prime example, would only root at the very bottom of the cutting. Each made one long root but when put into pots they just died. When I tipped the dead leafless stems out of the pot, that lone bottom root would still be looking just fine....but would instantly fall off the now dead remains of the stem.
Thanks - It makes sense, but I don't have a lot of experience with it myself as I've found it easier to root in potting soil.
You have to wane them off of water. When you want to transfer cuttings that grow in water into a pot, you have to slowly add substrates to the water until you get to the consistency of soil/potting mix so the plant gets use to it.
Several 'how to' videos on the David Austin channel says to soak bare roots: 'for at least a half hour'. I don't understand the long soak recommendations for most bare root roses - (unless you're getting late season body bag roses that have sat on retail shelves for weeks/months).
Thanks. There's are so many versions of this age-old advice it would be hard to arbitrarily declare one right timing, and you're right - unless you're dealing with noticeably dried out roots it's hard to make the case for a long soak. We take in a couple thousand bare root roses every year and soak exactly 0% of them with good results. Any losses are due to poor (rotting) condition noted upon arrival.
Another great session. I lost over ten roses last winter for not mulching and for placing the bud union above the soil level in my zone 5 garden. Would mulching with compose encourage more weeds to grow as opposed to wood chips?
Sorry to hear it! Yes, I'd say wood chip or bark mulch does a better job than most finished compost at suppressing weeds.
As a retired commercial rose grower my thoughts are when you mulch and cover the crown there is the risk that the rose bush will go on to its own roots. We always have the crown above an mulch so that this doesn’t happen, this is why the roses are graphed on hardy root stock but once the rose starts putting out it own root (the roots above the graft) the life of the bush is greatly reduced. It’s ok to mulch them up during the dormant stage but not during the growth stage.
Thanks for sharing your take on it Gerry
Hi Jason, how about "do not plant roses in the previous rose's hole". Is this true? Thanks
Somewhat. It may not turn out to be a serious issue for the casual home gardener, but it does come into play for commercial growers that the microbes related to successive crops of roses "build up" in the soil and stunt young roses.
when I plant bare root roses, I plant them immediately, without watering, because I soak the rose after planting, anyway, so it basically sits in mud.
Valid! If the goal is to rehydrate the roots a deep watering after planting will do the job. TBH for some suppliers/roots it's a non-issue because they arrive plump and obviously hydrated.
I would also love to know your opinion of using micorrhiza when planting new roses. I haven't seen any difference, but it seems to be all the rage right now.
There's some evidence to support its use, but I don't routinely add it. The one scenario I think I might is when dealing with specific replant disease - planting a young rose in the spot where an older established rose was rooted.
There are so many pieces of advice I have heard regarding roses. One tidbit I was told was never plant a rose in the grave of a dead rose. I do that all the time, as long as the rose didn't appear to have something like Mosiac or Crown Gall. I just amend the soil and replace with a new rose.
Hi Jason, I also live in greater Vancouver (N. Delta) and have some old HT roses along the back of our house. I am very much into composting, vermicomposting etc. which I try to add onto my rose beds every year. But I would very much like to get a soil test done to better understand the "health" of the soil around the roses. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can go to have a budget-friendly test done?
Also wondering if HT roses have a limited lifespan? We have lived here for 20+ yrs. and my roses don't seem to put out vigorous new canes from the crown anymore. Is there a method that might stimulate the roses to do that, such as mulching or placing compost higher up on the crowns. maybe my roses just don't get enough full sun. The bed faces SE so in mid summer the house shades the plants from 2 to 3 o'clock onwards.
Have watched many of you videos........keep up the great work. Hope 2024 is a great year for you.
thanks,
Harry
Thanks. Sadly I haven't found a really affordable option in the lower mainland. I think Terralink is around $50 per sample, and if you follow the recommendations of some for soil testing, you'd want to take samples from multiple places in the yard to account for soil differences. "They" also recommend updating the tests every couple of years to see what's changing. If you follow the recommendations, then, you'd be spending $150 every second year to manage fertilizer applications that will probably cost less than the testing! You can't go too far wrong though with applications of compost, alfalfa and other organic amendments - which tend to replace the major and minor nutrients at roughly the proportion plants need, and do so while improving the soil. Grafted roses do tend to build up scar tissue around the graft union and become less productive over time. Own-root roses can keep performing well much longer if maintained. Mor sun is generally welcome, and don't be afraid to take a heavier hand in pruning if you want to encourage stronger branching down low.
Thanks Jason for answering so quickly.....wasn't expecting that!
I will check out Terralink's website for more info.
I agree that just adding compost and my worm castings will be good for the garden. in fact I think the soil has already improved in the last few years since I started adding fresh lawn clippings as a mulch around the roses. They are always completely gone by the end of the summer.
Re the roses themselves I might try to be brave and prune them back a little further this year. I should have figured out how to attach a couple of photos so you could see the condition they're in.
Thanks again for the advice.
Harry
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Hearing that makes it hurt.
Hi Jason , really off topic but I was wondering what your input would be regarding soil amendments. The Land and Sea is so expensive, wouldn’t fish emulsion work in the same way? Really enjoy your info in your videos.
You really have to engage your critical thinking on amendments - I haven't used "Land and Sea" specifically, but I always apply same questions: what's it supposed to do? What's in it that is supposed to provide the benefit? Is there proof of the claims? And finally, even if there is, is this a good value for money? It looks like it's composted wood products, peat & lime for pH adjustment for the most part. All of these are common potting soil ingredients. It's hard to know what they specifically mean by humus because the term is used loosely and incorrectly all the time. Crab & lobster meal and interesting, but probably in the product in small amounts (listed last). I've seen some decent research that the chitosan in lobster or crab meal can have benefits, but without knowing how much is in the product, it's hard to say how much (if any) of a premium you should pay for the product. I'd be tempted to buy a lower cost potting soil and add my own crab meal amendment because I'd probably get a better bang for my buck.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I visited a fishing community (Newfoundland, Canada) couple years back and I purchased from a fisherman some lobsters at his residence. Anyways, I noticed his soil where he grew veggies and it was very rich looking, unlike a lot of soils I have seen. I asked him what he does with. He said he puts fish scraps and lobsters (extras) in the soil. I wish I had a picture. My point is soils benefit from organic matter, and although some would say it brings the rats, man, it does wonders for the soil.
What is your thought on systemic rose food?
Not generally a fan. Applying pesticides as part of the feeding program may seem like a good preventive measure, but my criticism is that it's not very targeted. That is, if there are no serious pest threats, you're applying pesticides to the plant and environment anyway. If there is a serious pest threat, you're always applying the same thing at the same rate, thus increasing the chances of pesticide resistance. Finally, because it's all formulated together, you're applying only one particular NPK formulation. It'd be a different discussion about "how on earth would the fertilizer manufacturer know what nutrients I need in my soil?" but really, it does take the one-size-fits-all (but fits no one very well!) approach to the max.
Is a pruning sealer the reason why nursery roses have that wax on the cane ends? Or is that for something else?
It's supposed to maintain the right level of moisture in the plant tissues while in storage.
Omg all of mine are above 😮 should I reburt them? Like dig them 😢 zone 8b
It's your call Melanie - but it's usually a more serious concern in colder climates. I'm in zone 8 as well, and usually I plant with the crown just about flush with the soil level.
Hi how do you suggest I revive my 20+year old climbing rose , I always trim it down every fall, but the flowers are getting weaker and it’s prone to leaf hoppers , any help would be useful thank you
Hi Lynne. I might delay major pruning until spring instead of fall. Overall review of conditions: enough sun, soil test for proper fert levels, consistent watering. It's true that sometimes older (especially grafted) roses can go into decline after a long time in the garden, so it's hard to say if you can turn it around, but always worth looking at the basics.
The angle cut never made sense to me. I'm pretty sure the sun and wind will dry out the open cut. Besides, I'm already trying not to get poke by the thorns. Buy a hybrid. My vine's a tree and it still blooms. Don't have issues with bugs, and in Hawaii, that's rare. I'll admit, I neglect this rose. I think it's an introvert. It don't like the attention and it's fine. Fertilizer? I don't remember the last time I gave it. My take on this video, it's knowing your climate, soil and type of rose. Sad to say, I don't know the name of my hybrid rose.
Exactly - I like the way Kimberley put it: to be the "head-gardener" on your own property and that means understanding your soil, climate and plants.
Silly me, i love GALL on things. I collect them.
It’s funny, these myths is all around the place, I’ve heard them in Sweden also.
But I have another question that I haven’t been able to figure it out. It’s about US zones and how I could apply it in my climate.
I have really mild winters. Often around 0 Celsius with occasional dips some nights down to -8 to -10 degrees Celsius. Sometimes snow for a couple of days but mostly rain. I live on an island (the island of limestone and roses) so we have cold springs and warm long falls, last frost date April 15, first frost date November 1. By just looking at that, great, I can plant almost everything!
But summers are “mild” too, about 22 to 28 degrees Celsius, with occasional periods of 30 to 33 degrees Celsius. So heat living plants doesn’t thrive because of that.
What US zone should you set on my climate?
Somewhere in the range of zone 8. The same as here. The USDA climate zones are really more focused on winter survival - and won't tell you a lot on their own about what heat plants need or will tolerate.
The same as the UK - 8
The strangest myth that I have recently heard is that roses "like meat" so if one finds a dead bird, one should bury it near a rose (?????). Perhaps the rose is going to benefit from such a burial after the body has decomposed completely. What do you think, Mr Fraser?
I wouldn't go out of my way to bury meat near my roses - besides, the local skunks and racoons will likely just dig it back up again. There are better ways to supplement organic matter and the rose can't tell the difference between nutrients from meat or not.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I couldn't agree more. I think the lady who shared "the secret" to growing roses with me has no idea that the local foxes and other predators are bound to benefit from the meat first (and last ;-)). Her garden is not fenced off, btw.
If you live an an area where it wouldn't draw problems, burying meat or fish would be a good idea - just the same as using "fish, blood and bone meal". Using meal is easier, but in nature decomposing bodies and their remains would normally be everywhere, if humans didn't remove them. They return important nutrients to the soil, like manure.
@@FireflyOnTheMoon Yes, that's true, but decomposing takes time. An animal's body is not accessible to a plant unless a number of processes take place first. Plants (with a few exceptions) cannot "digest" meat, as you certainly know. Cheers!
All I can say Jason, is that I'm glad I dont live in the US or Canada, with all the bugs you talk about. Here in Oz we don't have them and we can be very thankful for all the work our Govt through Customs, does to protect our gardening environment.
Wanted to send you a picture of a rose i found growing on the side of the road in Colombia. Maybe you are on Facebook...
I spent about £1000 on David Austin roses, and followed their advice to plant the crown below the surface. I live in the cold North of England, with clay soil. Almost all of them rotted away. There were a few I planted at or slightly above soil level, and these have grown vigorously and are still alive. I will never buy their roses again for their poor advice. Such a lot of money thrown away. I suggest plant them AT soil level, maybe slightly above if you intend to mulch if you live in areas with cold or wet winters.
That's rough! It really does go down to the point of one-size-doesn't-fit-all - I'm sure burying the crown is good advice for cold climates with excellent drainage, but I have a heavy soil with lots of winter wet (and mild-ish winters), so I like to have that crown up at or near surface level.
Who pulls the mulch away from the roses in the forests
Interesting point - and I think it's useful to imagine these shrubs in their natural environment without all the fuss. But then you also have to take into account that we're dealing with a cultivated (even domesticated) plant with different breeding and goals than wild roses. Who changes the shoes on wild horses? Who daily milks the wild cattle? There's all sorts of things we do for garden roses that wouldn't be offered in nature - pruning for a more open shape, deadheading, fertilizing for improved growth and blooms, supplemental irrigation. You can find wonderful wild roses thriving on the most difficult dry slopes with alkaline soil, but they're generally single petaled, once-blooming, and TBH often a bit scrubby or brambly in form. To your point, I've never seen much of a risk of mulch against the base of a rose, but I wouldn't argue against local experience either.
Korde roses Kord pronounced not Kord des