I’ve been pruning roses off and on for the past several days and now I’ve come back to share an my perspective. Y’all tell me if I’m being overly cautious. I’ve had cane-borers in my garden ever since 2021. I’ve used the “black stuff” for fresh cuts occasionally. I’m ready to start using it religiously now tho because in my pruning I found a few too many borers within an inch of the base of my roses. These were the borers that go down the center of the stem… I’ve never seen them go in any other way in my garden. Disclaimer this was on young roses. I definitely won’t be using on old established roses but I do wonder if it does have a use. I’ve heard they don’t go for the woody stems as quick. What do you think? I’m just a gardener, I have no training.
Thanks Adaline. I completely understand & respect that this can be a frustrating part of the hobby, and to the degree that sealing cane ends offers any peace of mind, don't let me stand in your way. The confusion is that there are many insects that fall under the behavior category of "cane borer" but as far as roses are concerned, you could loosely categorize them into two groups: the "opportunists" and the "specialists". The opportunists don't make their living eating rose canes. They have a whole other day job (sometimes eating other pests!), but if they're looking for a place to shelter and they find broken or cut stems to burrow into for safely, they'll do so. This might be too general on my part, but I usually notice their damage quite a bit later in the season. Little holes in the ends of stems and an inch or two of brown on the plant. Gardeners see the holes and "connect the dots" (inaccurately) as the entry wounds of the other, more damaging "specialist" cane borers. Take the case of the Raspberry Cane Borer for example. Here's what the tell-tale damage of their entry into the plant looks like: blogs.cornell.edu/berrytool/raspberries/raspberries-cane-borer-girdler-and-rednecked-cane-borer/ These are the professionals at damaging your plants. You'll often see a tell-tale quick wilt on the extremities, and a swelling of the stem. Their larvae will burrow all the way down to the base of the plants, threatening the shrub. Note that the entry is *not* through the cut end of the cane, and it wouldn't make any sense: these pests evolved to do their job long before people were pruning roses! So if the opportunists aren't really flying (much) at this time of year, and are responsible for less serious outcomes, and the specialists don't need the cut ends, it makes no sense to me that I would spend my efforts sealing canes at this time of year. Of course, to each his/her own, and I wish you every success in the hobby either way!
Probably the best guide on pruning roses. I like the way you talk about it. I also had some doubts about value of cutting at an angle rather than just making straight cut. It applies to outward facing bud as well.
Thank you so much for all of your videos and your massive knowledge base. You are one of just a few content creators I always turn to for accurate advice in caring for my roses. I wish you shipped to Texas but I do get your vaulable advice for free. Thanks again!
This is the best crash course for pruning roses. I like the way you talk about rules. I've heard so many explanations before, and you finally made sense.
Thank you for making the experience of growing roses less agitating and very informative on what is true...gardening should be fun and not brain surgery...I really did like this video😊
Every spring I thank the universe for you! I’m a panic rose gardener, I forget everything I learned from you last spring and I’m again worried I’m doing everything wrong lol Thank you once again, for another spring of gardening knowledge.
I've been watching you for about a year and a half now and you provide such really great advise about flower gardening. I finally have the time to focus on my roses and lilacs and you have been such a big help to me. Thank you so much for making these videos.
Very helpful, thank you! I'm glad to hear about the difference in pruning DA, shrubs, and climbers. I also have an Autumn Damask that is going to bloom for the first time this year! And it's all because I didn't prune it like a hybrid tea back in February (Texas, zone 9b). I was cutting off it's blooms every year like an idiot!
Thank you. Appreciate this. In the indo subcontinent we usually prune in fall (end September) so that by December the Roses send out their first flush. Our season here is from December to April (depending where one is geographically) Thank you once again
I grow over 100 different varieties of roses and when I prune, I don't complicate it. I just reduce down to 5-7 healthy canes and cut out crossing, dead or damaged. I take mine down to about mid shin height on me. It looks very drastic, but my roses appreciate my pruning process. I then spread composted horse manure around each one and throw down a couple of handfuls of alfalfa pellets like you do. They are such a cheap source of long lasting nitrogen. This gives them a beginning nitrogen boost and the spring rain leeches the nutrients down into the roots. I usually fertilize again mid summer.
Hi Jason I'm from Malaysia Thanks for generously sharing your thoughts and knowledge about roses. Though my climate here is just sunny and rain we can get too much of either one weather conditions 😂 I've got abt 40 id in my collection of Thai grafted roses in pots but they still require almost the same caring process.
I do use bleach water to spray on my pruning tools between trees. However, after use they are cleaned and then sprayed with Fluid Film. That prevents rust and lubricates the action. I do this with pruning saws as well. I sharpen my pruners with a stationary belt sander for sharpening knives. Worth it's weight in gold. Pruning to an outward bud is for trees. It does work in that case and is important for directing limbs to grow in the correct direction. The difference here is that roses don't have limbs like trees and trees keep their limbs for decades. Good video!
Oh Jason, I am watching you pruning with BARE HANDS! I have to clean up my Weeks "4th of July" rose and I'm in fear for my body. Even rose gloves aren't enough for the wicked thorns on this bad boy. It grabs my clothes and fights back. It's a good thing this is so beautiful and also a rebloomer.
Lol. I should probably set a good example, but I really find any sufficiently thick glove (to protect) also slows me down quite a lot, so I have to rely on some dexterity in avoiding the prickles.
My question is about cutting a long stem rose…not pruning, but cutting for a vase. Does it matter where I cut, since it will all be pruned down later, or does this do something funky and undesirable in the meantime? You’ve added a third category to art vs science by introducing common sense. Thank you for that, for adding confidence and raising my return on my investment.
I just scored myself THE Botanical Rose Encyclopedia Foreward by David Austin. Got it for 2 bucks at a nursery yard sale. I'm about that life 😂 it's so freaking heavy and the photos are sublime.🎉🎉🎉
Thanks, Jason for your very practical approach. I also didn't focus on the "outward facing bud" practice and was wondering if i should start doing so, but you hearing you reinforce this nonsense, i know i'm doing the right thing❤
Thanks so much for this. Great information as I spent a few hours today fussing over exactly what you said didn't matter - outward facing buds, angled cuts. Good to know that tomorrow's pruning will go more quickly. One question that I'd love to see addressed is how to prune climbing roses and how to train them up a pergola/pole. I've got a few David Austin climbers that are just entering their second year and they are going in all directions and I would really like to get them to go up the supports of my pergola and onto the 'roof'. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
We have a lot of bypass shears at work similar to those you are using. Two problems I get every time we bring them out is: 1/ People saying they don't work properly anymore. It's usually they are that gunked up with sap that they don't move nicely. I tell them I'll get them a new pair but really, I just clean them and give them back. 2/ People sharpening both sides of the blade. Once the blade doesn't slide past the bypass, as in there is now a gap because you have removed material from the inside, they are useless. It's not a knife, only sharpen the outside of the blade. They are predicting our winter this year will be a Thursday in the middle of August, so a little while to wait before I get to spring pruning.
Thanks Brad. Yeah, it's pretty tough to bring back a blade that's been sharpened on the inside to any serious extent. Gunk is a common one for sure. The only other problem I see regularly is a gradual loosening of the main nut, allowing too much play between the blade and the anvil. Simple & effective tools for the most part but basically keep them clean, sharpen (correctly), tighten that nut and oil as needed.
Thank you for your work! You are my primary resource for rose information! I do have a question that I don’t believe I have seen you cover. When is it too late to transplant rose bushes in my garden.
There are better and worse seasons to plant, but it also depends a lot on your climate. If you're in a climate with deep cold during the winter, I'd aim for the window starting a few weeks before last frost in spring, and ending maybe a month before first frost in the fall.
Lovely video. One idea re sloping cuts comes from fruit trees, where the growth callus of an upright cut can quickly form a "cup" for water to pool. Clearly not an issue for shrubs, but maybe where the "habit" began? Question: @10:30, you show a nice plant label. Would love to hear about your labeling process & preferred vendors sometime!
Thanks. Lisa had the plant labels made through a local trophy/engraving company, as they have the UV resistant Rowmark plastic and all the gear for cutting and engraving automatically. I had briefly considered getting my own engraver or CNC laser to do the job ourselves, but in the end I'd rather spend my time pruning roses!
Thanks. I'll put it on my list and see what I can make of it. The problem is that so many thousands of roses have been released, that it's difficult to ID much beyond a general "class" of roses unless it's quite common and easy to recognize.
I always Seal the 🌹 Rose Cane's with a "Wood Glue"because I have done my tests and I have found that those Rose's 🌹 that were not Sealed became full of "Blue Boring Flies eating and laying eggs then the Rose 🌹 would end up Dying. However the Rose's 🌹 that were Sealed Grew and Healthy. Sincerely 🤠 Mr Severance, "The Cake 🍰🎂🥳🎉 Man"& "Xerocsapeing Master Gardener".
We have Drift roses, which are a low-growing landscape rose (same company as the Knock Outs). That said, I follow rules #3 thru #7. For rule #2, I prune them a lot shorter, down to 6-8", depending on how much dead, diseased, thin, and crossing canes I need to prune off. Usually, I see gas hedge trimmers taken to landscape roses here. Brutal.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts & methods. I've seen some folks use a hedge trimmer on thinner stemmed roses with mixed results - as with many things, a lot comes down to the skill and care of the gardener. Myself I'd have a hard time not being a little more selective about the stems
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I was surprised to see how thick the canes were on Drift roses after a first season of growing. Similar to many Floribundas. Part of it may be that I prune them rather vigorously. Taking a hedge trimmer to them would seem to cause the canes to split a lot. I used to grow numerous Floribundas, Hybrid Teas, and David Austin roses, so hand pruners for me.
Not sure if I was right or wrong, but I noticed a bunch of very sick branches on my double delight. Almost all of the canes looked terrible so I cut it back almost to ground. I have 2 canes about 6 inches that look mediocre. I think it may be dead (or die) but at least it’s one of the more common & easy to replace.
Hi Ian. I don't find DD to be the easiest to keep healthy for long, at least in our climate. I may try again for the outstanding blooms, but I've never kept one for more than a few years.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm totally agree, if it’s gone I found ‘Unique Roses’ carries ‘Paradise’ so I’ll remove the old soil and plant another ‘paradise’ 😁
Always a great reminder this time of year. Rule number 4 always confused me because of the other bud eyes. I never actually looked to confirm but I assumed maybe the prune near the outward facing bud eye told the plant to send more energy to that one. Anyways good to know that it’s a moot point.
This is super helpful, thanks! What are your thoughts on very thick branches that shoot straight up and look more vigorous than the other stems? I'm pretty sure they are not grafted root shoots because the roses are David Austin...
Some David Austins are grafted, but it's hard to conclude it's a rootstock sucker unless you see other differences in growth. Rootstock suckers will often have a slight variation in green color, different looking thorns or a higher leaflet count. For now I'd assume it's just a vigorous new shoot/basal break (crossing fingers) and wait for bloom time to confirm.
@FraserValleyRoseFarm what is a basal break? I too am having the same thing on two rose bushes that have been on this property from the prior owners many years ago I don't know anything about these two bushes and they weren't maintained for 8ish years. These thick canes are a foot to 16" from the main growing point, which is under the soil line as is, and all three are bright green, brighter than the stems growing off the main (and old) canes), I truly don't know what they are.
Roses naturally send new shoots from the crown every now and again to refresh the shrub. That's a basal break. The thick canes you're talking about I suspect could be rootstock suckers, because they look a little different and emerge from a distance away.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I originally thought they were rootstock suckers but they are both own root David Austin roses and the growth and flowers were the same. Probably just vigorous new growth 😀
Thanks as always for the information. What are your thoughts on keeping old stems? I didn't see any on the roses you showed, so I assume you don't keep any, but wanted to ask. Thanks.
I'm always in the process of refreshing/transitioning to newer & healthier young stems, and that happens somewhat naturally if you're thinning and pruning for health. For some climbers and larger shrub roses, they form a long-term part of the framework down low.
Hello Jason, great timing on the video since I live in N. Delta and plan on prunning my HT roses on this gorgeous spring day. Have a few questions regarding dead canes...... 1. Some of my roses only have a couple of healthy canes along with one or two old brown dead canes up to 1.5 " diameter. I'm always hoping that I will get some new healthy canes emerging from the base of the large dead ones. Should I just saw those dead canes off close to the crown as to encourage that new growth I'm looking for? 2. Some of the crowns look to me like they are rotting away. Are they just getting too old ? Is having leaf mulch tucked next to the crown causing this? They are located next to the east-facing side of the house so only get 5-6 hrs/day of direct sunlight. thanks, and enjoy your first real taste of spring weather these next few days! Harry
Yes, down to near the ground. That won't interfere with any new shoots at the crown. It's natural for older roses to give up some of the older sections of crown, and over time they'll rot enough to be removed by hand. So long as you have other new shoots coming, it's not a problem.
Jason, for the UK at least, the David Austin pruning guide doesn't distinguish between repeat-flowering and once-flowering roses in terms of when they should be pruned. My Ispahan once-flowering roses flower on the new stems following pruning in early Spring. When you referred to once-flowering roses flowering on old wood, were you thinking of particular types (unlike Ispahan)?
This is from their Q&A: Q: I bought roses from you last year and followed your planting instructions but they have not flowered. Why? A: The most likely cause is that it is a once flowering variety which will only start flowering in its second year in your garden, on older growth. Most of the true Old Roses (Gallicas, Damasks, Albas, Centifolias and Mosses), the ramblers and the species, and a few other assorted varieties, come under this heading. For the same reason that they won’t flower in your garden in the first year, they will also refuse to flower if you prune them too hard, so do cut them back relatively lightly. So they do acknowledge the importance of established wood and its role in flowering for once-bloomers. Whether it's technically "blooming on old wood" directly, or just blooms better when there's a large framework of mature wood to provide energy may vary by plant a bit, but I can confirm from experience that a hard prune on Damasks, Gallicas, old ramblers and species roses has definitely cost me flowers. YMMV
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm That’s a great explanation, especially the part about blooming directly on old wood versus blooming on a framework of old wood. I don’t remove more than a third every spring, so it seems the framework of old wood provides sufficient energy for the blooms in summer.
Great vlog Jason, perfect timing for us here in Ontario. Still some minus nights, next week -5 through the night daytime in the plus. Should I prune with -5 through the night.
So it's safe to prune roses when it's raining or going to rain? Also, your old version of this video helped me identify a plant that I'd been trying to identify for ages - when you were holding up branch examples of other things that bloom along with forsythia I recognized the flowering quince, so thank you.
Epsom salts is really only useful for treating a magnesium deficiency, which is something you may have to confirm with a soil test. Horse manure has worked well for me. General granulated formulas can be decent, but often skew to higher P than rose can use or need. Something with a simplified NPK of 3-1-2 or 3-1-3 is about right for what roses actually use from the soil.
I don't know the details of your local climate, but because there's less seasonal variation in tropical climates, I don't see the same "rules" about when to prune being meaningful.
I am looking to grow my rose bushes up to window height, (highest is about 6 feet), not understanding trimming at 18" when I'm seeing yours far higher than that.
Right - pruning height for your desired size is definitely a judgement call based on what you want the plant to do in your garden (and taking into account its natural vigor and habit). I think any rule saying prune to a particular height is far too broad.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you. I’m in the UK and just purchased two Arthur Bell climbing roses and I’d like to train them on a trellis but don’t want them climbing or spreading to far.
So you can train a climber to be a shrub? I love climbers but hate maintaining them and training them. If we layer change our mind, will they go back to growing as climbers?
You talk so much about roses and hydrangeas that I can’t miss the opportunity to ask a professional. ;) I was trying to look for an answer online, but it looks like it’s a tricky one. Since my backyard space is so limited with 60% concrete, I have to rely on containers/pots a lot. I really want to have hydrangeas and lilac in my backyard. As far as roses go, they can be planted in big containers, what about hydrangeas and lilacs? Is there any possibility for them to grow in an xxxxxxxxl container? From what I’ve read, no matter how big the container is, eventually you HAVE TO transplant those two to the ground. Is it true or there’s a size that can FULLY accommodate lilacs and hydrangeas? Thanks in advance. Hope my little question catches your eye ;)
Well there's no such thing as "no matter how big the container" - I've seen street trees grown in large containers up to 30ft in height, but that said, there are practical matters such as space and weight that make mega containers impractical (in general) for home gardeners. You might consider dwarf varieties as an option. 'Miss Kim' lilac goes to somewhere around 5 ft max, making it an option. Similarly with hydranges, they're not all genetically equal in compactness, and it's worth seeking smaller varieties for container growing. Beyond that, it's down to how large a container (larger = better) and regular pruning to keep them manageable.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm OMG! The simplest solution sometimes totally misses your brain. Dwarf varieties. Of course! )))))))))))))))) I’m currently shopping for dwarf fruit tree varieties for the same reason. Why didn’t I think of dwarf lilacs and hydrangeas varieties. I feel dumb now… haha Thanks you thank you thank you!
Any advice on pruning species roses like Woods Rose? I have had one in a large container for a few years now and no blooms at all so far. Very healthy plant and even puts out shoots through the drain holes on the bottom edges... but no flowers.
Species roses are also better to wait for pruning until after the usual bloom period (late May through June) and focus mostly on thinning based on condition.
I am based in Malaysia and some of plants are still giving out only the weak thin spindly stems. Should I just prune this off to encourage the plants to shoot out hopefully thicker stems?
It's hard to make a specific call on roses I haven't seen, but generally speaking, yes, pruning can help to spur on stronger growth and rejuvenate the shrub
You are Golden Jason! I had read somewhere about “prune roses when forsythia bloom”. But hearing it from you seals it😁 This winter killed back several of my roses. I recently cut those back to the dirt leaving new growth from the bottom. But that’s all that’s left . No healthy canes survived. I’m a bit worried about now but I didn’t have a choice. Your thoughts? Thank you for posting this Jason!❤
Greetings, I'm new to your channel and found your videos very informative. I was wondering if you could make a video in regards to the kinds of flowers that bloom in Fraser valley. And, I'd also like to know if it's possible for water blossoms like lotuses/waterlily to grow there.
what about no pruning at all and letting a rose (not a ramble or climber) just grow. I have some old roses that came with the house. Basic red and always get black spots and loose all the leaves later in the year. Can this yield a healthy rose and fit in with a more natural looking landscape? Also the rose is in a spot with not the best light so my thinking was keeping it high so it gets more sun.
If the rose needs to be larger, no worries on giving it some time to size up, but old roses generally benefit from an annual pruning (even just focused on health and thinning) to help rejuvenate them for new shoots at the base. You don't have to go overboard if you're looking for larger shrubs & of course the ultimate size is always a negotiation between your preferences and those of the plant, but I find they benefit from some selective pruning nonetheless.
Thank you Jason. Excellent information and so well presented So, what DO we do about the worst type of cane borers? I’m new to zone 8b and have never had them before. I am definitely suffering from their presence. I’d love to see a video on how to treat for those. Thanks for any advice you can send! Cheers.!
They're pretty hard to prevent, so the main thing is to notice and act on the larvae damage promptly. If you're in an area with serious cane borer activity, watch for sudden wilt on the ends of canes or swelling down the stem. Do some test cuts and if you see the tunnelling, follow it down until you get ahead of the borer.
Hi Jason. I am in zone 4 in Ontario and wonder when to take my rose cones and burlap off my roses. Do I wait for my Forsythia to bloom? Our weather has been unusually warm this winter and I am not sure if this warmer weather will continue or if we will suddenly go cold again. I have a few zone 5 roses too and worry about them. They have always survived other winters. I also have Japanese beetles later on. Can I do something to help keep them away now? I usually just walk around knocking the beetles into soapy water but wonder if there is something I could do ahead of their infestation.
Hi Betty. You're in a far better position (location and experience-wise) to make the call on whether the cold will return to your area. As for Japanese Beetle, you can look a bit for sod damage where their grubs have overwintered and apply biological controls like BTg, Milky Spore or nematodes. As for during the season, there's a BTg application for that too or spinosad is a naturally-based pesticide that can work (if available to homeowners in your market).
Great timing! I just started pruning my roses yesterday (takes me a few days with as many as I have). I have a question though. I have a rose that I'd like to try pegging down to create a compact rounded bush (it gets extremely tall and lanky/awkward). The canes are no longer flexible, should I cut it down extra short to encourage new shoots and just train those?
Thanks Jason. In the last six years in my garden I have started to getting zero new basal shoots on my climbing roses. Any ideas why that might be? I do get new growth, but it's way up the plants..
There's no general cause that I know of for lack of basal breaks - some varieties are more willing than others, but usually with good growing conditions it's just a matter of increasing the severity of pruning until the plant "obeys" and puts some growth down low. There has been some association made between the triacontanol in alfalfa and basal breaks, but they've never really quantified or standardized the application, so it'd be a shot in the dark.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I've come across that with a couple of clients who insisted that their roses remain at a certain height and this of course meant no new growth in the lower areas. My solution was to prune a select number of stalks to about 3 inches around the plants so they weren't noticeable and when they began to initiate new growth, allow them to fill in down below and fill in the middle section as well. If it's hard to take the hard prune a staggered approach might make it bit less stressful.
Good morning Jason.. I’ve got some rose cuttings from last year they are doing well. Some are 2” tall and a little leggy. Would you prune these. Don’t know when to prune the new ones. Thank you for an excellent channel 😊 🤓B
So in short I need to cut back the one in my garden that was there when we bought the house - it's maybe 10 feet tall if fully errect but bending over due its own weight
There are too many varieties with too many growth habits to get specific, but because they're impressive in the garden when grown large, I like to leave a little more wood on the shrubs. So I gave 3 examples in the video: Olympiad with pruning that might be appropriate for a medium hybrid tea (18"), Baron Gird de l'Ain higher at maybe 30" and finally the last rose I pruned was Westerland, which I keep as a large shrub (maybe 42" at pruning time). The punchline being that there's quite a range that will work nicely, but you won't know the "best" height until you've done it a few times and see the results. I suspect many DA roses will respond nicely somewhere between the 30" and 42" size.
I’ve always heard that with pruning in general, you want to cut before any spring budding. The rationale being that the sap pressure goes up as well as budding hormone cumulating in the tips and getting cut off. Why is that not the case with roses?
I've seen gardeners go a little sooner (before the buds swell) and I've certainly seen them go later. The plants seem to recover well either way, so I'm going to conclude that there's a fair range of time where you can make these cuts. Yes, you'll lose some energy - but that's true of the energy stored in the pruned wood either way. In any case, the timing can be a little hard to nail, as some of my roses are far ahead of others. So I don't stress it too much, and I'll get to them in my own order.
This is a great point for pruning in general, but more particularly roses and shubs. Like we discussed the other week, sometimes it might be necessary to prune at an inopportune time due to an insect infestation or perhaps storm damage or other unforseen situation. Of course, timing will determine if that section of the plant will flower in that season or perhaps it will be delayed by a month or so. Over all, if untimely pruning is needed, the plant will be healthier for it, even if a season is missed or delayed because of it. I think in most cases you will probably not notice at all.
In SE Michigan it was very warm for the past couple of weeks, all the buds are out, forsythia is blooming and to morrow night it's going to minus 7 centigrade. I was going to prune - and actually started - is there a danger of dieback?
Are there any differences in pruning different types of roses? I noticed that many of the old European varieties have a different suckering growth habit, can those be tree formed or is each stem on a set lifecycle? I've never seen it done and I'm not sure if they could be trained into tree or vine form like some other varieties.
Some are quite different, like climbers to take a certain amount of selection and training to achieve the form and cover your chosen support. As for free-standing roses, the principles shown in the vid apply generally, just adapt to the habit of the plant.
No. The height is a personal judgement call, and if you enjoy them a little bit taller there's no saying you need to cut so severely. So long as you're managing for shape and health, you're good. The only other bit of advice I'd give is to eliminate one or two of the oldest, less productive canes down low every year or two to encourage fresh shoots over time.
When should you prune rose starts? I have 18 rose stars from last summer & they are growing well. Not sure how to care for them now that they are thriving. Thanks!
Nicely done. There isn't a good rule of thumb (that I know of) to tell you when your roses are large enough to warrant pruning. If the branching is okay, I limit my pruning to health-related and deadheading on young roses. If however they're not branching (or I don't like the "balance"/shape of the young plant) I'll begin structural pruning a lot earlier. The fact that they're well-rooted and thriving takes away the question of "how to care for rose starts" - as you'll just treat them as potted roses from now until they go in the ground or their permanent container.
I’ve been pruning roses off and on for the past several days and now I’ve come back to share an my perspective. Y’all tell me if I’m being overly cautious.
I’ve had cane-borers in my garden ever since 2021. I’ve used the “black stuff” for fresh cuts occasionally. I’m ready to start using it religiously now tho because in my pruning I found a few too many borers within an inch of the base of my roses. These were the borers that go down the center of the stem… I’ve never seen them go in any other way in my garden.
Disclaimer this was on young roses. I definitely won’t be using on old established roses but I do wonder if it does have a use. I’ve heard they don’t go for the woody stems as quick. What do you think? I’m just a gardener, I have no training.
Thanks Adaline. I completely understand & respect that this can be a frustrating part of the hobby, and to the degree that sealing cane ends offers any peace of mind, don't let me stand in your way. The confusion is that there are many insects that fall under the behavior category of "cane borer" but as far as roses are concerned, you could loosely categorize them into two groups: the "opportunists" and the "specialists". The opportunists don't make their living eating rose canes. They have a whole other day job (sometimes eating other pests!), but if they're looking for a place to shelter and they find broken or cut stems to burrow into for safely, they'll do so. This might be too general on my part, but I usually notice their damage quite a bit later in the season. Little holes in the ends of stems and an inch or two of brown on the plant. Gardeners see the holes and "connect the dots" (inaccurately) as the entry wounds of the other, more damaging "specialist" cane borers. Take the case of the Raspberry Cane Borer for example. Here's what the tell-tale damage of their entry into the plant looks like: blogs.cornell.edu/berrytool/raspberries/raspberries-cane-borer-girdler-and-rednecked-cane-borer/ These are the professionals at damaging your plants. You'll often see a tell-tale quick wilt on the extremities, and a swelling of the stem. Their larvae will burrow all the way down to the base of the plants, threatening the shrub. Note that the entry is *not* through the cut end of the cane, and it wouldn't make any sense: these pests evolved to do their job long before people were pruning roses! So if the opportunists aren't really flying (much) at this time of year, and are responsible for less serious outcomes, and the specialists don't need the cut ends, it makes no sense to me that I would spend my efforts sealing canes at this time of year. Of course, to each his/her own, and I wish you every success in the hobby either way!
I learn so much from your videos. Thankyou for completing the complete prune!
Probably the best guide on pruning roses. I like the way you talk about it. I also had some doubts about value of cutting at an angle rather than just making straight cut. It applies to outward facing bud as well.
Thank you so much for all of your videos and your massive knowledge base. You are one of just a few content creators I always turn to for accurate advice in caring for my roses. I wish you shipped to Texas but I do get your vaulable advice for free. Thanks again!
This is the best crash course for pruning roses. I like the way you talk about rules. I've heard so many explanations before, and you finally made sense.
Thank you for making the experience of growing roses less agitating and very informative on what is true...gardening should be fun and not brain surgery...I really did like this video😊
I learned a lot watching this video. Cheers from Ottawa.
Thanks so much!
Every spring I thank the universe for you! I’m a panic rose gardener, I forget everything I learned from you last spring and I’m again worried I’m doing everything wrong lol
Thank you once again, for another spring of gardening knowledge.
Thanks Tracy
Your videos are always incredibly helpful and this one is no exception! Thanks Jason!!
Clear, concise, helpful. As always, I'm appreciative and impressed.
Thank you, I saved your video! I always get confused to prune, for floribunda even more confused
Best ride pruning video out there’s just watched all of them lol
Very helpful. Thank you. My first year of planting David Austins, and I never had a rose bush in my life.
I've been watching you for about a year and a half now and you provide such really great advise about flower gardening. I finally have the time to focus on my roses and lilacs and you have been such a big help to me. Thank you so much for making these videos.
Very helpful, thank you! I'm glad to hear about the difference in pruning DA, shrubs, and climbers. I also have an Autumn Damask that is going to bloom for the first time this year! And it's all because I didn't prune it like a hybrid tea back in February (Texas, zone 9b). I was cutting off it's blooms every year like an idiot!
I'm glad you left it this year!
Thank you Jason! Blessings!
Thanks Cami
So helpful, thanks Jason!!
Very much my pleasure. Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated, and you have made rose pruning less complicated
Thank you sir. I have come to your channel for years to care for my roses. I have checked other channels, no one can compare.❤️
Aw, thanks so much Patricia!
Thank you Jason you answered the questions I had about pruning my roses! I'm pumped and ready to go outside and prune 😀 Blessings
This is the best one to know how to prune roses. Thank you!
So pretty in the backyard setting. Green grass..
Always the best suggestion on roses. thank you so much.
Thank you. Appreciate this. In the indo subcontinent we usually prune in fall (end September) so that by December the Roses send out their first flush.
Our season here is from December to April (depending where one is geographically)
Thank you once again
Thanks for adding that!
I grow over 100 different varieties of roses and when I prune, I don't complicate it. I just reduce down to 5-7 healthy canes and cut out crossing, dead or damaged. I take mine down to about mid shin height on me. It looks very drastic, but my roses appreciate my pruning process. I then spread composted horse manure around each one and throw down a couple of handfuls of alfalfa pellets like you do. They are such a cheap source of long lasting nitrogen. This gives them a beginning nitrogen boost and the spring rain leeches the nutrients down into the roots. I usually fertilize again mid summer.
Thanks for sharing your methods and success Mary!
Thank you Jason, great tips ! 🪻💚🙃
Great video. Very informative & easy to understand.
Happy Spring!
And to you... I hope it's a busy one for both of us!
Extremely nice! Many thanks for sharing!
Great video, you answered my questions as I do have leaves still on the roses but they are brown and dried up so I am going to remove them.
Thanks Kate. I'm glad I remembered to throw in that quick note at the end.
Fantastic!
Thank you!
Thank you 1000xs!
Hi Jason I'm from Malaysia
Thanks for generously sharing your thoughts and knowledge about roses. Though my climate here is just sunny and rain we can get too much of either one weather conditions 😂 I've got abt 40 id in my collection of Thai grafted roses in pots but they still require almost the same caring process.
Thank you. Great content
Thanks Tina - I really appreciate the feedback
In few words, rose pruning made simple task for average gardeners 👍
Really good video
I do use bleach water to spray on my pruning tools between trees. However, after use they are cleaned and then sprayed with Fluid Film. That prevents rust and lubricates the action. I do this with pruning saws as well.
I sharpen my pruners with a stationary belt sander for sharpening knives. Worth it's weight in gold.
Pruning to an outward bud is for trees. It does work in that case and is important for directing limbs to grow in the correct direction. The difference here is that roses don't have limbs like trees and trees keep their limbs for decades.
Good video!
Thanks for adding your knowledge. 100% that tree pruning cuts should be chosen with farm more care to position of the bud(s) and remaining limbs
Great video as always, thanks!
Oh Jason, I am watching you pruning with BARE HANDS! I have to clean up my Weeks "4th of July" rose and I'm in fear for my body. Even rose gloves aren't enough for the wicked thorns on this bad boy. It grabs my clothes and fights back. It's a good thing this is so beautiful and also a rebloomer.
Lol. I should probably set a good example, but I really find any sufficiently thick glove (to protect) also slows me down quite a lot, so I have to rely on some dexterity in avoiding the prickles.
Slashes and gashes are our battle wounds😂
For the love of the Rose!😂
My question is about cutting a long stem rose…not pruning, but cutting for a vase. Does it matter where I cut, since it will all be pruned down later, or does this do something funky and undesirable in the meantime?
You’ve added a third category to art vs science by introducing common sense. Thank you for that, for adding confidence and raising my return on my investment.
No, the precise location on the stem doesn't matter, and often the stem are cut down again later to open up the vascular tissue to take up water.
I just scored myself THE Botanical Rose Encyclopedia Foreward by David Austin. Got it for 2 bucks at a nursery yard sale. I'm about that life 😂 it's so freaking heavy and the photos are sublime.🎉🎉🎉
Nicely done - good eye!
Super helpful video, Jason! Thank you for simplifying your advice to what's really important to gardeners. Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much Trish
Thanks, Jason for your very practical approach. I also didn't focus on the "outward facing bud" practice and was wondering if i should start doing so, but you hearing you reinforce this nonsense, i know i'm doing the right thing❤
Thanks so much for this. Great information as I spent a few hours today fussing over exactly what you said didn't matter - outward facing buds, angled cuts. Good to know that tomorrow's pruning will go more quickly. One question that I'd love to see addressed is how to prune climbing roses and how to train them up a pergola/pole. I've got a few David Austin climbers that are just entering their second year and they are going in all directions and I would really like to get them to go up the supports of my pergola and onto the 'roof'. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. I did a video last year on young climbers that might be of some help: ruclips.net/video/J3BrZf75a48/видео.html
Thanks so much!! Exactly what I needed.@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Watching your video I swear I had a little bit of wee wee come out. 😂 thanks Jason.
Great information, thanks
I'm new to roses, your video is what I needed. Thank you!
Welcome to the hobby!
hi there could you please do a video on feeding the roses and what to avoid? great videos and great manner, thanks from Newzealand
I'm retired and taking up gardening as a hobby. I've learned a lot from your videos and will try starting rose cuttings too. Thanks!
My pleasure - and welcome to the hobby!
Thanks for the video.
We have a lot of bypass shears at work similar to those you are using. Two problems I get every time we bring them out is: 1/ People saying they don't work properly anymore. It's usually they are that gunked up with sap that they don't move nicely. I tell them I'll get them a new pair but really, I just clean them and give them back. 2/ People sharpening both sides of the blade. Once the blade doesn't slide past the bypass, as in there is now a gap because you have removed material from the inside, they are useless. It's not a knife, only sharpen the outside of the blade.
They are predicting our winter this year will be a Thursday in the middle of August, so a little while to wait before I get to spring pruning.
Thanks Brad. Yeah, it's pretty tough to bring back a blade that's been sharpened on the inside to any serious extent. Gunk is a common one for sure. The only other problem I see regularly is a gradual loosening of the main nut, allowing too much play between the blade and the anvil. Simple & effective tools for the most part but basically keep them clean, sharpen (correctly), tighten that nut and oil as needed.
Thank you for your work! You are my primary resource for rose information!
I do have a question that I don’t believe I have seen you cover. When is it too late to transplant rose bushes in my garden.
There are better and worse seasons to plant, but it also depends a lot on your climate. If you're in a climate with deep cold during the winter, I'd aim for the window starting a few weeks before last frost in spring, and ending maybe a month before first frost in the fall.
Lovely video. One idea re sloping cuts comes from fruit trees, where the growth callus of an upright cut can quickly form a "cup" for water to pool. Clearly not an issue for shrubs, but maybe where the "habit" began?
Question: @10:30, you show a nice plant label. Would love to hear about your labeling process & preferred vendors sometime!
Thanks. Lisa had the plant labels made through a local trophy/engraving company, as they have the UV resistant Rowmark plastic and all the gear for cutting and engraving automatically. I had briefly considered getting my own engraver or CNC laser to do the job ourselves, but in the end I'd rather spend my time pruning roses!
very nice . Helping farm in canada is big thing . buy local . Please add more video like Money Mang in farm .how to get clients for flowers
Great video, thanks. Can you do one that explains how to identify different types of roses please
Thanks. I'll put it on my list and see what I can make of it. The problem is that so many thousands of roses have been released, that it's difficult to ID much beyond a general "class" of roses unless it's quite common and easy to recognize.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarmso a video about identifying classes then?
This dude just barehanding rose bushes like an absolute madman
I always Seal the 🌹 Rose Cane's with a "Wood Glue"because I have done my tests and I have found that those Rose's 🌹 that were not Sealed became full of "Blue Boring Flies eating and laying eggs then the Rose 🌹 would end up Dying. However the Rose's 🌹 that were Sealed Grew and Healthy.
Sincerely 🤠 Mr Severance,
"The Cake 🍰🎂🥳🎉 Man"&
"Xerocsapeing Master Gardener".
Thank you Jason you have answered lot of questions for me. ❤
My pleasure
We have Drift roses, which are a low-growing landscape rose (same company as the Knock Outs). That said, I follow rules #3 thru #7. For rule #2, I prune them a lot shorter, down to 6-8", depending on how much dead, diseased, thin, and crossing canes I need to prune off. Usually, I see gas hedge trimmers taken to landscape roses here. Brutal.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts & methods. I've seen some folks use a hedge trimmer on thinner stemmed roses with mixed results - as with many things, a lot comes down to the skill and care of the gardener. Myself I'd have a hard time not being a little more selective about the stems
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I was surprised to see how thick the canes were on Drift roses after a first season of growing. Similar to many Floribundas. Part of it may be that I prune them rather vigorously. Taking a hedge trimmer to them would seem to cause the canes to split a lot. I used to grow numerous Floribundas, Hybrid Teas, and David Austin roses, so hand pruners for me.
Not sure if I was right or wrong, but I noticed a bunch of very sick branches on my double delight. Almost all of the canes looked terrible so I cut it back almost to ground. I have 2 canes about 6 inches that look mediocre. I think it may be dead (or die) but at least it’s one of the more common & easy to replace.
Hi Ian. I don't find DD to be the easiest to keep healthy for long, at least in our climate. I may try again for the outstanding blooms, but I've never kept one for more than a few years.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm totally agree, if it’s gone I found ‘Unique Roses’ carries ‘Paradise’ so I’ll remove the old soil and plant another ‘paradise’ 😁
Hey Jason, I use the same rules for pruning a couple fruit trees.
Thanks for adding that - you're right: quite similar overall
Good info!!!! Thanks!!!
My pleasure. Thanks for the encouragement
Always a great reminder this time of year. Rule number 4 always confused me because of the other bud eyes. I never actually looked to confirm but I assumed maybe the prune near the outward facing bud eye told the plant to send more energy to that one. Anyways good to know that it’s a moot point.
Thank you!
Most welcome. Thanks for watching!
This is super helpful, thanks! What are your thoughts on very thick branches that shoot straight up and look more vigorous than the other stems? I'm pretty sure they are not grafted root shoots because the roses are David Austin...
Some David Austins are grafted, but it's hard to conclude it's a rootstock sucker unless you see other differences in growth. Rootstock suckers will often have a slight variation in green color, different looking thorns or a higher leaflet count. For now I'd assume it's just a vigorous new shoot/basal break (crossing fingers) and wait for bloom time to confirm.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you, that makes since. I'll have to see what they do this growing season👍
@FraserValleyRoseFarm what is a basal break?
I too am having the same thing on two rose bushes that have been on this property from the prior owners many years ago
I don't know anything about these two bushes and they weren't maintained for 8ish years. These thick canes are a foot to 16" from the main growing point, which is under the soil line as is, and all three are bright green, brighter than the stems growing off the main (and old) canes), I truly don't know what they are.
Roses naturally send new shoots from the crown every now and again to refresh the shrub. That's a basal break. The thick canes you're talking about I suspect could be rootstock suckers, because they look a little different and emerge from a distance away.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I originally thought they were rootstock suckers but they are both own root David Austin roses and the growth and flowers were the same. Probably just vigorous new growth 😀
My roses continuosly blooms 12 months a year , from India
Thanks as always for the information. What are your thoughts on keeping old stems? I didn't see any on the roses you showed, so I assume you don't keep any, but wanted to ask. Thanks.
I'm always in the process of refreshing/transitioning to newer & healthier young stems, and that happens somewhat naturally if you're thinning and pruning for health. For some climbers and larger shrub roses, they form a long-term part of the framework down low.
Thank you.@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Thank you.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching Geraldine
Hello Jason, great timing on the video since I live in N. Delta and plan on prunning my HT roses on this gorgeous spring day. Have a few questions regarding dead canes......
1. Some of my roses only have a couple of healthy canes along with one or two old brown dead canes up to 1.5 " diameter. I'm always hoping that I will get some new healthy canes emerging from the base of the large dead ones. Should I just saw those dead canes off close to the crown as to encourage that new growth I'm looking for?
2. Some of the crowns look to me like they are rotting away. Are they just getting too old ? Is having leaf mulch tucked next to the crown causing this? They are located next to the east-facing side of the house so only get 5-6 hrs/day of direct sunlight.
thanks, and enjoy your first real taste of spring weather these next few days!
Harry
Yes, down to near the ground. That won't interfere with any new shoots at the crown. It's natural for older roses to give up some of the older sections of crown, and over time they'll rot enough to be removed by hand. So long as you have other new shoots coming, it's not a problem.
Thanks Jason@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support!
Jason, for the UK at least, the David Austin pruning guide doesn't distinguish between repeat-flowering and once-flowering roses in terms of when they should be pruned. My Ispahan once-flowering roses flower on the new stems following pruning in early Spring. When you referred to once-flowering roses flowering on old wood, were you thinking of particular types (unlike Ispahan)?
This is from their Q&A:
Q: I bought roses from you last year and followed your planting instructions but they have not flowered. Why?
A: The most likely cause is that it is a once flowering variety which will only start flowering in its second year in your garden, on older growth. Most of the true Old Roses (Gallicas, Damasks, Albas, Centifolias and Mosses), the ramblers and the species, and a few other assorted varieties, come under this heading. For the same reason that they won’t flower in your garden in the first year, they will also refuse to flower if you prune them too hard, so do cut them back relatively lightly.
So they do acknowledge the importance of established wood and its role in flowering for once-bloomers. Whether it's technically "blooming on old wood" directly, or just blooms better when there's a large framework of mature wood to provide energy may vary by plant a bit, but I can confirm from experience that a hard prune on Damasks, Gallicas, old ramblers and species roses has definitely cost me flowers. YMMV
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm That’s a great explanation, especially the part about blooming directly on old wood versus blooming on a framework of old wood. I don’t remove more than a third every spring, so it seems the framework of old wood provides sufficient energy for the blooms in summer.
Great vlog Jason, perfect timing for us here in Ontario. Still some minus nights, next week -5 through the night daytime in the plus. Should I prune with -5 through the night.
That's pretty close - and the odd drop to -5C wouldn't likely damage the newly pruned plants. It's deeper cold we're concerned about.
Thank you Jason
So it's safe to prune roses when it's raining or going to rain? Also, your old version of this video helped me identify a plant that I'd been trying to identify for ages - when you were holding up branch examples of other things that bloom along with forsythia I recognized the flowering quince, so thank you.
Awesome to hear - thanks!
Can I use Epsom salts as fertiliser. I also have general cgranulated dry fertiliser and semi rotted horse manure. Love your no fuss method, good video
Epsom salts is really only useful for treating a magnesium deficiency, which is something you may have to confirm with a soil test. Horse manure has worked well for me. General granulated formulas can be decent, but often skew to higher P than rose can use or need. Something with a simplified NPK of 3-1-2 or 3-1-3 is about right for what roses actually use from the soil.
can I prune even if its June? I live at a tropical country and I want my rose bush to be smaller..
I don't know the details of your local climate, but because there's less seasonal variation in tropical climates, I don't see the same "rules" about when to prune being meaningful.
Great video on pruning. Where do you buy the carbine sharpener from to make the pruners sharp?
I found mine on Amazon
Thanks a lot for your lessons. It is was very helpful..just one question. What kind of fertilizer you have mentioned in the video?Thanks a lot..
I like to use alfalfa pellets, like they use for rabbit food
In India winters are mild but summer is too hot 45°C for 4 months
I am looking to grow my rose bushes up to window height, (highest is about 6 feet), not understanding trimming at 18" when I'm seeing yours far higher than that.
Right - pruning height for your desired size is definitely a judgement call based on what you want the plant to do in your garden (and taking into account its natural vigor and habit). I think any rule saying prune to a particular height is far too broad.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I want to prune my roses bushes to use them as "Entry deterrence." I'm practical. :)
Ha, a climbing rose trained as a shrub🤔, could this be possibly done with any climbing rose or just certain varieties?
Generally better with varieties that have stiff stems rather than thin pliable ones.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you. I’m in the UK and just purchased two Arthur Bell climbing roses and I’d like to train them on a trellis but don’t want them climbing or spreading to far.
So you can train a climber to be a shrub? I love climbers but hate maintaining them and training them. If we layer change our mind, will they go back to growing as climbers?
Sure - it works better for those with firmer stems, but no problem later letting grow back to climbing form.
You talk so much about roses and hydrangeas that I can’t miss the opportunity to ask a professional. ;)
I was trying to look for an answer online, but it looks like it’s a tricky one.
Since my backyard space is so limited with 60% concrete, I have to rely on containers/pots a lot.
I really want to have hydrangeas and lilac in my backyard. As far as roses go, they can be planted in big containers, what about hydrangeas and lilacs? Is there any possibility for them to grow in an xxxxxxxxl container? From what I’ve read, no matter how big the container is, eventually you HAVE TO transplant those two to the ground.
Is it true or there’s a size that can FULLY accommodate lilacs and hydrangeas?
Thanks in advance.
Hope my little question catches your eye ;)
Well there's no such thing as "no matter how big the container" - I've seen street trees grown in large containers up to 30ft in height, but that said, there are practical matters such as space and weight that make mega containers impractical (in general) for home gardeners. You might consider dwarf varieties as an option. 'Miss Kim' lilac goes to somewhere around 5 ft max, making it an option. Similarly with hydranges, they're not all genetically equal in compactness, and it's worth seeking smaller varieties for container growing. Beyond that, it's down to how large a container (larger = better) and regular pruning to keep them manageable.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm OMG! The simplest solution sometimes totally misses your brain. Dwarf varieties. Of course! ))))))))))))))))
I’m currently shopping for dwarf fruit tree varieties for the same reason. Why didn’t I think of dwarf lilacs and hydrangeas varieties. I feel dumb now… haha
Thanks you thank you thank you!
Any advice on pruning species roses like Woods Rose? I have had one in a large container for a few years now and no blooms at all so far. Very healthy plant and even puts out shoots through the drain holes on the bottom edges... but no flowers.
Species roses are also better to wait for pruning until after the usual bloom period (late May through June) and focus mostly on thinning based on condition.
I am based in Malaysia and some of plants are still giving out only the weak thin spindly stems. Should I just prune this off to encourage the plants to shoot out hopefully thicker stems?
It's hard to make a specific call on roses I haven't seen, but generally speaking, yes, pruning can help to spur on stronger growth and rejuvenate the shrub
You are Golden Jason! I had read somewhere about “prune roses when forsythia bloom”. But hearing it from you seals it😁 This winter killed back several of my roses. I recently cut those back to the dirt leaving new growth from the bottom. But that’s all that’s left . No healthy canes survived. I’m a bit worried about now but I didn’t have a choice. Your thoughts? Thank you for posting this Jason!❤
New growth from the bottom is good enough for me in some cases! Just watch as they develop and bloom to see that it's not just rootstock suckers
Greetings, I'm new to your channel and found your videos very informative. I was wondering if you could make a video in regards to the kinds of flowers that bloom in Fraser valley. And, I'd also like to know if it's possible for water blossoms like lotuses/waterlily to grow there.
Thanks so much. I'll see if I can do something on water plants when I have a chance.
what about no pruning at all and letting a rose (not a ramble or climber) just grow. I have some old roses that came with the house. Basic red and always get black spots and loose all the leaves later in the year. Can this yield a healthy rose and fit in with a more natural looking landscape? Also the rose is in a spot with not the best light so my thinking was keeping it high so it gets more sun.
If the rose needs to be larger, no worries on giving it some time to size up, but old roses generally benefit from an annual pruning (even just focused on health and thinning) to help rejuvenate them for new shoots at the base. You don't have to go overboard if you're looking for larger shrubs & of course the ultimate size is always a negotiation between your preferences and those of the plant, but I find they benefit from some selective pruning nonetheless.
Thank you Jason. Excellent information and so well presented
So, what DO we do about the worst type of cane borers? I’m new to zone 8b and have never had them before. I am definitely suffering from their presence. I’d love to see a video on how to treat for those. Thanks for any advice you can send! Cheers.!
They're pretty hard to prevent, so the main thing is to notice and act on the larvae damage promptly. If you're in an area with serious cane borer activity, watch for sudden wilt on the ends of canes or swelling down the stem. Do some test cuts and if you see the tunnelling, follow it down until you get ahead of the borer.
Hi Jason. I am in zone 4 in Ontario and wonder when to take my rose cones and burlap off my roses. Do I wait for my Forsythia to bloom? Our weather has been unusually warm this winter and I am not sure if this warmer weather will continue or if we will suddenly go cold again. I have a few zone 5 roses too and worry about them. They have always survived other winters. I also have Japanese beetles later on. Can I do something to help keep them away now? I usually just walk around knocking the beetles into soapy water but wonder if there is something I could do ahead of their infestation.
Hi Betty. You're in a far better position (location and experience-wise) to make the call on whether the cold will return to your area. As for Japanese Beetle, you can look a bit for sod damage where their grubs have overwintered and apply biological controls like BTg, Milky Spore or nematodes. As for during the season, there's a BTg application for that too or spinosad is a naturally-based pesticide that can work (if available to homeowners in your market).
Great timing! I just started pruning my roses yesterday (takes me a few days with as many as I have). I have a question though. I have a rose that I'd like to try pegging down to create a compact rounded bush (it gets extremely tall and lanky/awkward). The canes are no longer flexible, should I cut it down extra short to encourage new shoots and just train those?
Sounds reasonable!
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm how short should I go?
Thanks Jason. In the last six years in my garden I have started to getting zero new basal shoots on my climbing roses. Any ideas why that might be? I do get new growth, but it's way up the plants..
There's no general cause that I know of for lack of basal breaks - some varieties are more willing than others, but usually with good growing conditions it's just a matter of increasing the severity of pruning until the plant "obeys" and puts some growth down low. There has been some association made between the triacontanol in alfalfa and basal breaks, but they've never really quantified or standardized the application, so it'd be a shot in the dark.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
I've come across that with a couple of clients who insisted that their roses remain at a certain height and this of course meant no new growth in the lower areas.
My solution was to prune a select number of stalks to about 3 inches around the plants so they weren't noticeable and when they began to initiate new growth, allow them to fill in down below and fill in the middle section as well.
If it's hard to take the hard prune a staggered approach might make it bit less stressful.
Good morning Jason..
I’ve got some rose cuttings from last year they are doing well. Some are 2” tall and a little leggy. Would you prune these. Don’t know when to prune the new ones.
Thank you for an excellent channel 😊
🤓B
I give young plants a fair bit of time to grow and bulk, only pruning to encourage branching or manage any health problems.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks Jason for your reply… from across the pond. Much appreciated!
Keep the vids going .. just love em!🤓
So in short I need to cut back the one in my garden that was there when we bought the house - it's maybe 10 feet tall if fully errect but bending over due its own weight
That's what I'd do - brave cuts to rejuvenate the old rose.
So what is the rule for David Austin and large shrubs like Sweet Mademoiselle that is about 8' in my garden?
There are too many varieties with too many growth habits to get specific, but because they're impressive in the garden when grown large, I like to leave a little more wood on the shrubs. So I gave 3 examples in the video: Olympiad with pruning that might be appropriate for a medium hybrid tea (18"), Baron Gird de l'Ain higher at maybe 30" and finally the last rose I pruned was Westerland, which I keep as a large shrub (maybe 42" at pruning time). The punchline being that there's quite a range that will work nicely, but you won't know the "best" height until you've done it a few times and see the results. I suspect many DA roses will respond nicely somewhere between the 30" and 42" size.
😊
I’ve always heard that with pruning in general, you want to cut before any spring budding. The rationale being that the sap pressure goes up as well as budding hormone cumulating in the tips and getting cut off. Why is that not the case with roses?
I've seen gardeners go a little sooner (before the buds swell) and I've certainly seen them go later. The plants seem to recover well either way, so I'm going to conclude that there's a fair range of time where you can make these cuts. Yes, you'll lose some energy - but that's true of the energy stored in the pruned wood either way. In any case, the timing can be a little hard to nail, as some of my roses are far ahead of others. So I don't stress it too much, and I'll get to them in my own order.
This is a great point for pruning in general, but more particularly roses and shubs.
Like we discussed the other week, sometimes it might be necessary to prune at an inopportune time due to an insect infestation or perhaps storm damage or other unforseen situation. Of course, timing will determine if that section of the plant will flower in that season or perhaps it will be delayed by a month or so.
Over all, if untimely pruning is needed, the plant will be healthier for it, even if a season is missed or delayed because of it.
I think in most cases you will probably not notice at all.
In SE Michigan it was very warm for the past couple of weeks, all the buds are out, forsythia is blooming and to morrow night it's going to minus 7 centigrade. I was going to prune - and actually started - is there a danger of dieback?
The deeper and longer the cold, the greater the risk of die-back, but a quick dip down to -7C probably isn't going to phase the roses much.
Are there any differences in pruning different types of roses? I noticed that many of the old European varieties have a different suckering growth habit, can those be tree formed or is each stem on a set lifecycle? I've never seen it done and I'm not sure if they could be trained into tree or vine form like some other varieties.
Some are quite different, like climbers to take a certain amount of selection and training to achieve the form and cover your chosen support. As for free-standing roses, the principles shown in the vid apply generally, just adapt to the habit of the plant.
Do all roses need to be cut back to 18 inches? I have some garden roses about 7 feet tall.
No. The height is a personal judgement call, and if you enjoy them a little bit taller there's no saying you need to cut so severely. So long as you're managing for shape and health, you're good. The only other bit of advice I'd give is to eliminate one or two of the oldest, less productive canes down low every year or two to encourage fresh shoots over time.
When should you prune rose starts? I have 18 rose stars from last summer & they are growing well. Not sure how to care for them now that they are thriving. Thanks!
Nicely done. There isn't a good rule of thumb (that I know of) to tell you when your roses are large enough to warrant pruning. If the branching is okay, I limit my pruning to health-related and deadheading on young roses. If however they're not branching (or I don't like the "balance"/shape of the young plant) I'll begin structural pruning a lot earlier. The fact that they're well-rooted and thriving takes away the question of "how to care for rose starts" - as you'll just treat them as potted roses from now until they go in the ground or their permanent container.
Thank you, that helps!