Found you again. I may, or may not lol, have been banned on my old account and lost all of my favorites. Good to see you still going. You're my go to for engine rebuilds. Now I have to try to find that transmission channel I liked...
Dye of Boredom and go to another video! LOL😮. Not me! I am always sticking with the learning process, but in repetitive chores, we do get the idea, but this is the point to hand it off to guy / gal who needs to learn, who needs the hands on "Feel" of the feeler blade between the valve stem tip and roller wheel on the arm. This is praise to you and your choice to end the video at this part of the demonstration. This showing of movement, repeating the step is the same for all as you are pointing out the need of getting that lifter onto the base circle of the cam. Excellent and for a diagnostician, this is where I become a tiny bit of an engine builder. For that, I thank you! DK, Omaha.
Thankyou for your time in making all the videos . Comp cams sells hydraulic and solid roller lifters with tie- bars for non roller ford 302. Would like to go with the solid roller ones. Can you do a comparison, even if its just a discussion. Thanks again!
When I got my 402 inch big block Chivy it had a solid 595 lift Comp cam WITH poly locks already on it. The H Sharp rocker arms have never moved off their set lash so far.
Not knowing if the previous owner of my car installed solid liters or hydraulic in the SBC 350 and I don't want to pull the intake... Can follow this procedure and measure for lash as a best guess? I figure if I need to turn the rocker nut back a quarter or more to get any feeler gauge it is most likely hydraulic. If I can get a feeler gauge in there without turning the nut then it is a probable solid lifter cam. The next question would be.... if I determine it is solid, how do I know what lash It "Should be"? Thanks!
I have one question if I'm turning my engine a sbc and following the firing order couldn't both valves be adjusted say on number one as piston comes up the valves are closed and on base circle. Then just rotate to number 8 with 90 degree on balancer should be on same spot to adjust both valves n keep turning 90 degree until firing order is complete. Two rotations of crank fully should be all 8 cylinders. Is that correct to do that way? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Why solid lifters? What is best combo in your opinion for street truck that does everything? 4 bying, hauling firewood, pulling camper, looking cool with 37" tires. You got a cam suggestion for this truck? I just got a 400 cleaned up for it. Haven't decided on heads yet.
351 Clever Ford the procedure is the same for and push solid cam V8 with adjustable rockers ruclips.net/video/WPo_8iuOTek/видео.html studio.ruclips.net/user/videothmtzO_2_xM/edit ruclips.net/video/thmtzO_2_xM/видео.html
That does not work with a solid roller they have a really small base circle and your adjustment will be off that only works with small flat tappet cams
hi im too lazy to go thru all the live streams to find out if you will sell and engine that you personally have rebuilt or recommend a place that has similar standards of work ty go have a beer
Hello, when setting lash cold, would you -.006 less than the cam card specs to get to .022 on hot lash? with a iron block and aluminium heads. Thank you
That seems to mesh with most blog comments I've run across, but I hate assumptions. Let me suggest... prove it for your combo, in your car. Set cold lash 0.006" under, drive around a good 45 minutes to achieve thermal stability/get everything settled, then spot check your lash. Whatever its off by, change adjustment next time you have a cold engine and repeat the test. Once you figure out the true expansion happening to your top end geometry, you will always be able to set lash cold and not worry about it. .
That is going to very depending on block deck height gasket thickness head thickness cam and lifter brand and rocker arms used you need to measure for your correct length
I run a flat tappet solid if I can get good parts. I f I have to run a hydraulic, it will be a roller. But flat tappet solid cams last forever and after a proper break in you rarely have to move the lash again.
@@Myvintageiron7512 Don't know what that means. But when the aluminum heads heat up the lash opens up maybe .010 too much lash makes a lot of racket and it beats up the valve train.
18 and 20 thousandths seem to be popular on solid lift roller rocker, lifters and of course, roller cam. Not my car buy younger family member. I am not pulling the intake ever, and it is solid because I was able to get fiber optic light onto rocker to see a "C-Clip" and not a common Wire retainer used on hydraulics lifters. It not my fault the 10-12 years ago when build, he had no clue then and still has no clue now about everything, including cam card, build sheet but knows it was a Comp! Since Eldelbrock bought Comp, I don't know if better or worse in the "Tech Department" but we know what usually happens. No one's home or sometimes in 2022, customer service can't spell cardboard box! Without the internet. But using best practices and a common setting cold. Here's you car and "Hear's your sign" dumb assque! Deal with it. The speed shop has his entire file, receipt and build sheet with a copy of the cam card. He talked them. It does pay to unlock the storage trailer to look for a dust folder with his name on it, so it is easier to say "We don't keep that info". You bet! Neither does he, in a shoe box with taxes he can't find. You can't fix stupid! DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired! I ain't working on it anymore. I am afraid I will get stupid on my fingers and won't wash off.
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Best instructional videos on the entire internet. THANKS for sharing all your knowledge. 🤙🏻
Found you again. I may, or may not lol, have been banned on my old account and lost all of my favorites. Good to see you still going. You're my go to for engine rebuilds. Now I have to try to find that transmission channel I liked...
Welcome back!
Dye of Boredom and go to another video! LOL😮. Not me! I am always sticking with the learning process, but in repetitive chores, we do get the idea, but this is the point to hand it off to guy / gal who needs to learn, who needs the hands on "Feel" of the feeler blade between the valve stem tip and roller wheel on the arm. This is praise to you and your choice to end the video at this part of the demonstration.
This showing of movement, repeating the step is the same for all as you are pointing out the need of getting that lifter onto the base circle of the cam. Excellent and for a diagnostician, this is where I become a tiny bit of an engine builder. For that, I thank you!
DK, Omaha.
Thankyou for your time in making all the videos . Comp cams sells hydraulic and solid roller lifters with tie- bars for non roller ford 302. Would like to go with the solid roller ones. Can you do a comparison, even if its just a discussion. Thanks again!
Always good info, sir!! I'll be doing this very thing after putting the new heads on! Thank you
Nice!
When I got my 402 inch big block Chivy it had a solid 595 lift Comp cam WITH poly locks already on it. The H Sharp rocker arms have never moved off their set lash so far.
Very nice engine.
I like the heads.
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
thx
Very good always enjoy watching!
Not knowing if the previous owner of my car installed solid liters or hydraulic in the SBC 350 and I don't want to pull the intake... Can follow this procedure and measure for lash as a best guess? I figure if I need to turn the rocker nut back a quarter or more to get any feeler gauge it is most likely hydraulic. If I can get a feeler gauge in there without turning the nut then it is a probable solid lifter cam. The next question would be.... if I determine it is solid, how do I know what lash It "Should be"? Thanks!
Awesome video
I have one question if I'm turning my engine a sbc and following the firing order couldn't both valves be adjusted say on number one as piston comes up the valves are closed and on base circle. Then just rotate to number 8 with 90 degree on balancer should be on same spot to adjust both valves n keep turning 90 degree until firing order is complete. Two rotations of crank fully should be all 8 cylinders. Is that correct to do that way? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Is that the Clevor you were building a while back?
Great video! I have a setup like that and was curious if I was doing the adjustments differently.
Nice job , thanks
Just pick up a good 1957 283
(No side engine mounts )
Why solid lifters?
What is best combo in your opinion for street truck that does everything? 4 bying, hauling firewood, pulling camper, looking cool with 37" tires.
You got a cam suggestion for this truck? I just got a 400 cleaned up for it. Haven't decided on heads yet.
Hyd RV cam Engine Pro MC1730
@@Myvintageiron7512
Thank you. Looks like a good one. Would it work ok with a better aftermarket head?
Man I wish they had made those heads for the FE, after doing a Clevor, how do you keep them down on the farm? 😂
Miss you as a teacher
aaaaa
What is the engine brand? Thank you! Great video! 💥🇺🇸💥🇺🇸
351 Clever Ford the procedure is the same for and push solid cam V8 with adjustable rockers
ruclips.net/video/WPo_8iuOTek/видео.html
studio.ruclips.net/user/videothmtzO_2_xM/edit
ruclips.net/video/thmtzO_2_xM/видео.html
Why not put the intake and exhaust on the base of the cam between the compression and power stroke and set both?
That does not work with a solid roller they have a really small base circle and your adjustment will be off that only works with small flat tappet cams
I love the frequent content. I understand you are buisy. Still wait for a 400 sbc video 😏
If you watch pretty much any 350 or 383 build it's exactly the same as 400
Hello where they are located
hi im too lazy to go thru all the live streams to find out if you will sell and engine that you personally have rebuilt or recommend a place that has similar standards of work ty go have a beer
Hello, when setting lash cold, would you -.006 less than the cam card specs to get to .022 on hot lash? with a iron block and aluminium heads. Thank you
That seems to mesh with most blog comments I've run across, but I hate assumptions. Let me suggest... prove it for your combo, in your car. Set cold lash 0.006" under, drive around a good 45 minutes to achieve thermal stability/get everything settled, then spot check your lash. Whatever its off by, change adjustment next time you have a cold engine and repeat the test. Once you figure out the true expansion happening to your top end geometry, you will always be able to set lash cold and not worry about it. .
I’m doing the same engine combo. What length push rods did you come up with?
That is going to very depending on block deck height gasket thickness head thickness cam and lifter brand and rocker arms used you need to measure for your correct length
I run a flat tappet solid if I can get good parts. I f I have to run a hydraulic, it will be a roller. But flat tappet solid cams last forever and after a proper break in you rarely have to move the lash again.
so true
I really wish that someone had made a 4.63 bore spacing head like those with the FE valve arrangement. Those heads are a work of art.
you have not defined the firing order as this seem un even?
You do not need to use the firing order to do this
This is not correct. Both the screw and the nut must be tightened together once correct lash is achieved.
Why .016 lash?
to hot target compression ratio
@@Myvintageiron7512 Don't know what that means. But when the aluminum heads heat up the lash opens up maybe .010 too much lash makes a lot of racket and it beats up the valve train.
If only doing valve clearance on a DOHC cam on bucket motor was this easy :(
Yea buckets are a whole other story
Aye why’d you fail me bro? Did I ask to many questions?
im not sure what you mean
Nope !!!!
18 and 20 thousandths seem to be popular on solid lift roller rocker, lifters and of course, roller cam. Not my car buy younger family member. I am not pulling the intake ever, and it is solid because I was able to get fiber optic light onto rocker to see a "C-Clip" and not a common Wire retainer used on hydraulics lifters. It not my fault the 10-12 years ago when build, he had no clue then and still has no clue now about everything, including cam card, build sheet but knows it was a Comp!
Since Eldelbrock bought Comp, I don't know if better or worse in the "Tech Department" but we know what usually happens. No one's home or sometimes in 2022, customer service can't spell cardboard box! Without the internet. But using best practices and a common setting cold. Here's you car and "Hear's your sign" dumb assque! Deal with it. The speed shop has his entire file, receipt and build sheet with a copy of the cam card. He talked them. It does pay to unlock the storage trailer to look for a dust folder with his name on it, so it is easier to say "We don't keep that info". You bet! Neither does he, in a shoe box with taxes he can't find. You can't fix stupid!
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired! I ain't working on it anymore. I am afraid I will get stupid on my fingers and won't wash off.