Solid video, I've been in the trade 35 years and will retire next year. I remembered all the high end homes I was involved in after watching your video. i was a spray man for a few high end companies on the west coast. I'm glad i heard your comment that you would normally hang the doors because thats how i did it, made hanging systems out of one inch pipe, hooked the top or bottom of the doors and sprayed them with fans pulling the overspray from behind. then transfer them to hanging racks. I loved the result but the end game was exhausting, meticulous work for sure. I moved on to a sports facility position, do a little of everything now. I had a very diverse career in the trade. Pro's make it look easy, keep the great work coming....
@DanThaMan That would be a step in the right direction, of course without being able to read any spec/data sheet on the previous product I wouldn't be able to give you a slam dunk answer. Some pre- catalyzed materials have a recoat window. Can you get any information on the product, or if its unknown to you my only suggestion would be to try a test on a section of door and see if there is any rejection of the finish.
A method I used to remove dust from the air to get high gloss finishes directly from a spray gun after hours of trail and error (because I didn’t have a clean room) was spraying outside and wetting down the floor, yes the floor with water. When you spray and walk around your just kicking up dust that ends up on your finish. Also best not to judge the high gloss finish when it’s still wet.
Many people who paint a car at home wet the floor to keep down dust and hang clean plastic around since even the cleanest garage or carport still has dust and spiderwebs. Need ventilation, such as a box fan w/ filter strapped on, plus carbon filter mask if spraying 2-part automotive paint. A clean air breather is even better, but few have one.
I done our cabinets the same way with a harbor freight paint spray gun/pressure pot. I mixed Pentrol with oil base gloss to allow paint to thin relax slow the drying time, I’m no painter but they’re slick and smooth. Great job! I also bought a painters hood from Amazon $20, piped in forced air with a regulator to keep paint out of my hair eyes and nose.
Yessss! That sounds amazing! YOu are speaking my language. I would always use penatrol with oil gloss, and man o man i think there is no better finish and look! Great job, and do me a favor and send me a pic or info about the regulator for air...that is a great idea
With each Cabinet I finish, a new experience I have. Years after years of experience with Cabinet Refinish, the conclusion is always perfect. Congratulations, a wonderful job. Boston, MA.
Refreshing to see a tutorial on the correct way to refinish cabinets.. I won’t even entertain the thought of redoing cabinets in latex or even oil in most cases. *LACQUER* 👍🏻
"Refinish cabinets" with cheap white "spray paint" not remotely intended for "natural fibers"? That's funny shit. About as funny as pretending he's "refinishing" and not doing "new construction" and such a shitty job of it he needs "car paint" on plywood "custom cabinets" applied to VERTICAL surfaces "laid out" horizontally to fill all in a "flood coat" in order to cover or rather fill all the "imperfections" in the base material. Any "custom cabinets" that need to be spray-painted to a "glassy" laquer finish "on site" must be real cheap pieces of shit made by a "general contractor" from bottom drawer material no real "refinisher" would waste time, effort, talent, skill money and paint "refinishing" and no real cabinetmaker would do the same making in the first place. When a "how-to" video doesn't show the finished product period much less in use you can rest assured the end did not justify the means even when the means are as cheap as they could possibly be. No wood surface is "uniform" in hardness, density and color especially unprimed and unsealed and no matter how you "lay out" wooden objects "one coat coverage" ending in a "glassy finish" is a practical impossibility IF by "glassy" you mean "smooth as glass" and modern float glass is your example. The unprimed and unsealed wood surface - which is ALWAYS "laminated" in some way, shape or form regardless of material including PLYWOOD - when you get into cabinetmaking - will never evenly absorb a "flood coat" and it will never "dry" (laquers "cure" like concrete and do not simply "dry") evenly and to a uniform and "glassy" surface and finish ESPECIALLY "laid out" where it will STILL "run" toward any "low spots" leaving high spots "thin" and low spots "thick" and both reflecting light and objects differently leaving a "wavy" reflection and shine that will stand out even more with the cabinets and doors actually hung and mainly at "eye level" with the rest "angled" relative to eye level where it can easily be looked down upon or up at in a well-lit and high-use and high-traffic "workspace" where there are plenty of other "glassy" objects and surfaces that are also "laid out" and have no high spots or low spots so that the "wavy" cabinet doors can't be missed. VARNISH exists as a "clear coat" and "filler" for wood specifically because "perfect" wood surfaces are impossible to "craft" AND if and when you want a "glassy" monochromatic finish over imperfect wood you put paint OVER varnish just like when "car painting" if you are not skilled, talented, dedicated and experienced to do "perfect" METALWORK that is "glassy smooth" while still "bare metal" and after priming-sealing you do "bodywork" with "bondo" up to and including a vehicle-covering "glide coat" dragging that crap over every square inch and getting "full coverage" before "finish sanding" the body FILLER back down to "bare primer" for a "glassy smooth" so-called "paint job" with a "flood coat" of two-stage base-clear paint you'll end up with 10 coats of clear on just to have enough "depth" to "cut and buff" it back down to "smooth as glass" appearance even though the actual "paint job" is as "wavy" as those "refinished" cabinet doors ended up being.
So who are you "redoing cabinets" for? Are you a DIY "house flipper" that can't "redo" that are of sufficient quality to justify "redoing" properly and still "make money", not DIY "redo" them at any level of profit or loss because you suck at "working with your hands" in general and damage them to the point only "refinishing" them with a "flood coat" of "laquer" on the "laid out" doors will hide your "imperfections" or are you just too lazy to do them right on your own dime? You sure as hell aren't a professional remodeler/refinisher for any private customer if you get to choose "laquer" and if you think "redoing" with "laquer" instead of "oil" OR "varnish" is an "alternative" rather than a substitute you obviously have no business in the "redoing" business on a private customer's dime. So...that leaves what if the answer is none of the above? Government work? Are you a "redoer" of "affordable housing"? Or maybe "public spaces"? You idiots going "laquer" for cabinets in "spaces" that happen to be where most residential FIRES begin that have no fucking clue that there is more to the SAFETY of "paint" than how toxic or poisonous or flammable or explosive the "fumes" are while "wet" REALLY have no business substituting what's "cheapest" and/or "easiest" for what is "safest" period much less in "jurisdictions" where you idiotically operate entirely without adult supervision even if only temporarily. Which is the case because no "corner cutter" ever makes it to "retirement age" in an "industry" where he or she is barely the smartest person in the room when alone much less when any "casual observer" is around that's curious or even just bored enough to pick up the container of whatever "corner cutting" is being used and read the label for himself or herself when the corner cutter himself/herself can't answer simple questions about the what/when/where/how the product is properly and safely used as an "alternative" to a much more commonly used and seen and observed "industry standard" satisfactorily. "Laquer" is "banned" in many jurisdictions because not it's a "fire hazard" for real trained professionals that read and follow directions but because of "self-taught" wannabes that failed shop class and/or science class or cut class the day(s) "fire safety" in the shop/lab was taught and never got/get that LIQUIDS and SOLIDS never "catch fire" but the FLUIDS - INCLUDING "VAPORS" AKA GASES - THEY "GIVE OFF" WHEN HEATED DO. The reason damn near all "petroleum-based" solvents, paints and other "shop supplies" are now "banned" in jurisdictions without "free healthcare" is the rate at which illiterate and/or lazy "workers" in more "liberal" jurisdictions that still have not "banned" them kill and maim innocent bystanders when they "emigrate" to America and bring their "self taught" and/or "apprentice education" idiocy, reckless, clueless and fatal "know-how" with them and "start a business" in an "industry" they really have no clue whatsoever about when it comes to "workplace safety". And 99% of them are "functionally illiterate" when it comes to the "science" on an instruction label or brochure much less an MSDS.
I stopped using lacquer 3 years ago when I figured out that PPG Breakthrough V50 is rated for cabinetry. Lacquer is good, but it often yellows over time and gets brittle. Breakthrough doesn't do either of those and cleans up with water, dries to touch in 15 minutes (recoat in an hour) and doesn't have the bad smell. But nice work. Lacquer is fun to spray when you have the right equipment and a ton of openings to knock out.
@@AJF4Me Yes. We have a Graco 9.0 we use with a #2 fluid set. To get a nice, smooth finish, you need to put about 10% water in it. Otherwise the Breakthrough will dry too fast leaving an orange peel texture.
Excellent finish especially as your on site, 20 years ago I used to work in a car body shop and we used tack clothes/rags which did an amazing job at removing all the dust prior to painting.
I’m an old school painter... if I’m spraying wood work I will always use Cancel primer first and always use Satin Impervo both sold at Benjamin Moore. It’s so good no thinning no nothing spray right out of the can if you want!
Thank you so much 🙏 Yes this house was amazing and it took almost 3 years to complete! I want to put up some video of the inside, but apparently it is going to be in some magazines and trade publications so I have to wait until those are published first. thanks for the comment
Seems like a vacuum would be better so all that dust doesn’t get blown into the surrounding air. You know what your doing to get them looking sweet! Nice job!
It looks great. I have a question though. I’ve seen clear lacquer turn milky in the presence of heat and moisture. Would you even use a pigmented lacquer in a kitchen if it weren’t already white?
Yes, we have had really good results with the pigmented laquer. Out here all the cabinet companies use either pigmented laquer or conversion varnish and we have had really good results with both. Thanks so much for the comment,👍🙏
@@PaintBoss Thank you for responding. I’m actually remodeling a kitchen in a house built in 1922. I want to respect the house and avoid anything that even hints of plastic. Understanding lacquer better is really helpful.
Hello there, and thanks for the question! If you are going to paint a car, I would highly recommend getting automotive paint for that. It is a totally different component chemical that is in automotive paint, that is why it is so expensive...That being said if it is something for your house, then absolutely you can order a high gloss sheen and it will turn out beautifully! Let me know if you are talking about doing a car...we have shot a certain type of paint on our work vans and it has worked out pretty well! But yes, always use a compatible primer before using any specialty paint. Thanks for the comment! Let me know if u have any other questions
@@PaintBoss painting a cabinet, but has normal housrhold gloss paint painted before. I want to paint it with a high.gloss 2K paint. Thanks for your response.
@@buyisilengubane4559 My friend own Car paint shop and he always uses PPG Selemix paint when he paints wood and if i'm not wrong it doesn't need any primer.
Thank you so much brother 👍🙏 We got this from a Benjamin Moore supplier who has a cabinet division for special tinted Laquers. thanks for the comment 🙏
Hello Kered, good call, I have actually never tried the kemvar product, but I have heard it mentioned before so I'm definitely looking forward to trying it out! I do really like the finish we have been getting out of the Gemini though for cabinets. I find it really easy to work with and sand. Thanks for the recommendation, I will try it👊🙏
@@PaintBoss i actually want to try gemini's pigmented conversion varnish to see how it compares. sherwin williams's clear conversion varnish isn't very good (not durable) but their pigmented is fantastic.
Hey Paintboss! I’m about to do this at my new home. I have one question , what size nozzle do I use on my HVLP spray gun and what’s the “perfect” PSI ?? Thanks for sharing.
Hi I have high gloss kitchen doors like this . Do you have any recommendations for products that can make them glosser and remove surface scratches that happened through time . Just to make them shine and brilliant again. Tnx 🙏
Was waiting for the how to.... what gun, what psi setting, what mixture, what distance is best, anything added to the mix etc etc etc... All you have done is shown a video of you working on a job.
ya, sorry I was just getting started and learning how to explain more of the process. We are trying to explain more now and cover all the bases. thanks for the feedback
Hello Dustin, so for the bigger doors and panels we are using a graco 395 with 50 percent pressure and a 308 and 310 fine finish low pressure tip💪 for the smaller frames and doors we used the hvlp to control our fan and product so we could build nice coats that lay out evenly after they cure. thanks so much for the comment 👊🤝🙏
Painting cabinets for a new house? Perhaps the new cabinets didn't come in the color the designer specified? Pre-catalyzed lacquer or do you add catalyst as you use it? I've read the pre-catalyzed are good for ~3 months before using them. I doesn't seem lacquers can be bought any more in California except by individuals.
Was your gun running off the small compressor in the backround, i only saw one line and it looked like it was feeding the blowing nozzle? I have a similar size compressor with a lvlp gun but i domt seem to get the same consistent flow you had? Thanks
Hey Daniel, thanks for the comment. So we were running both, this was such a big job..223 cabinet doors in total, so we actually ran both. The compressor is 13 gallons and we had a cup gun and blow off tip from the compressor for the smaller doors and frames, but what you see me shooting is from our airless sprayer with the pressure way down and a fine finish tip. thanks for the comment
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, it's been crazy around here. No. With this material I like to go straight out of the can👍🙏 thanks for the comment
Hello there, well it depends...did you paint the oil base on the vanity? You can scuff sand gently and brush some brushing Laquer. you would need to buy a specific Laquer called brushing Laquer, or you can buy some spray cans and get that nice spray finish. My favorite can of Laquer is the deft spray can. you would probably only need a can or 2 and it should be beautiful result 💪👊 Let me know how it goes!
Hello Joseph, sorry for the delay. No we don't have to topcoat this product, it is a pigmented laquer, and usually i like doing 2 to 3 coats and they will hold up really well. thanks again for the comment.
Where do I find pigmented lacquer? How many coats does it take to get that high gloss finish? That’s the look I want to have done for the headliner panels in the interior and exterior of my yacht.
Hello Marshall, thanks for the comment. So on the bigger panels we are using a graco 395 at about 50 percent pressure on a fine finish low pressure 308 and 310 fine finish tip. Thanks for the question 🤝💪🙏
i am korean paint you tube 안녕하십니까요,감사드립니다,,,,,You're the best teacher! Thank you so much,,,,,,,Fantastic ,,환상적인 영상입니다,,깊은 감명을 받았습니다,,님 부자되시고 행복하시길 부처님의 이름으로 기도합니다,👍
Hola Karin, lo ciento mi Español es Mas o menos malo...😆 pero you nesecito practical! Yo creo su pregunta es que tipo si. Yo me gusto una 310 fine finish, o una 308 fine finish low pressure. No sabe en Español, pero muchas gracias por su respuesta 👍👊🤝🙏 lo ciento por mi espanol 🙏
In case we already have painted the wood work and desire to repaint a glossy touch with original paint not so clean and glossy?? Do we need to scratch all paint and sand the wood work?? If yes what size of sand paper to use and tips plz? Thanks
Hello Naeem, so yes if you are going to paint a new coat on cabinets that are already painted then definitely sand them a little bit with a fine sanding sponge or some 220 or 280 and you will get a really nice finish. Just remember to wipe and clean off the cabinets after you sand them.Thank for the comment and let me know if you have any more questions. 💪👍
@@PaintBoss thanks bro. It's actually wainscoting wall and the wood PCs are curvy and notchy ..so lot of work to do 😍 Any technique to sand it nicely or just take time to sand with normal paper ?
oh yes brother, I know all about the curvy pain the ass trim packs!🤣 I would say next time your at the paint store buy some of the sanding pads...not as thick as sponges, but like the cabinet guys use...I think they are called sanding pads, that and just paper..sometime we fold things or creses into our sand paper to match the trim profile. Let me know how it goes!
@@PaintBoss Haha ya I know , good advice was thinking too about pads I ordered already online hope to get it soon..let's see... am just fond of wood work but not a professional like u ..would keep u posted.. have a good day .. STAY BLESSED BROTHER
What can i use to make my white kitchen cabinets shiny/glassy after they were painted with semi-gloss white paint? it was resurfaced and painted about a month ago, is there a certain top coat i can use
Yes, there is always a way, it depends on what is on your cabinets now, is it latex alkyd or laquer? Let me know and I can try to help recommend some products 💪👍
Thanks for video, I have a question what kind of spray machine do you have I saw in your video you have two . Last question where can I get those paint?
Hello Tommy 👋 and thanks for the comment. So you are right, on this job we had so many different sizes of cabinets i used 2 different set ups. I used a graco 395 with a fine finish tip for the big doors, and for the smaller doors and frames I used a cup gun hvlp off of a 13 gallon air compressor. This uses less material and can get some of the small detail edges, while not over flowing them with to much product. I used a Gemini Pigmented Laquer for these doors, and you can buy at any dunn Edwards, Gemini dealer, and or cabinet shop/hardware shop that sells stain and Laquer to cabinet makers.
Hello JP so this was a color change on lacquered cabinets, so we sanded all of them down, cleaned them and then shot 2 coats of Pigmented Laquer in a 7 degree sheen. They turned out beautiful! thanks for the comment 👍
out here we call it Pigmented Laquer or tinted Laquer...meaning it's not a clear coat, it is whatever color the client chooses, and the color and Laquer are in the same can. Saves time, and flows really nicely out of the gun. Thanks for your comment 👍👊🙏
1-Where do you get pigmented lacquers to spray? They don't have them at my local Sherwin Williams or Kelley Moore (maybe it's because I'm in CA?). 2-Do you use any additives to help the lacquer lay down and not orange peel like a floetrol or something similar?
Hello there Michael, you know, I wouldn't doubt that, it could be a regulation thing in Cali, we had them when I was there but I left socal about 14 years ago, so I don't know anymore. I would figure that cabinet shops would still have to have access to some, but not sure...maybe look for or Google a Gemini dealer and see if they do, if not dunn Edwards has a really great alkyd water borne product that sprayes and holds up pretty similar, its called Aristoshield and you can buy that in cali for sure. 2, when I shoot Laquer I don't ever add anything to it, just use fine finish or hvlp and it lays down. With latex I do love me some floatrol though! good call! thanks for tbe comment 🤝💪
Thank you Allie, I appreciate it very much 😊 So great question, and it depends on the profile of the cabinet! I am a firm believer in trying to spray the edges at least 2x while shooting the back and once with the fronts...reason being, is I want to build the millage on the edges cause that is where all the fingers, scuffs and pulls happen for the client over time...however you are right! Athos was the final coat of the cabinet faces, and I didn't want to risk overspraying the backs with overspray dust, so on the final coat with this profile I like to just focus on the face, since it has such an intricate profile! Great question and thanks for the comment🤝🙏
Yeahhhhh!!! so good to hear brother 🙌 I really appreciate it 🙏 Hope you guys are doing well over there, and I really appreciate you reaching out on the RUclips channel! Still trying to get the hang of RUclips and talking to my phone, but I hope it's not looking too cheezy!
For those asking about the paint. I'm pretty sure he is using Lenmar Ultra-lac by Benjamin Moore and NOT Gemini as stated. Ultra-lac is a Lenmar brand, and Chantilly Lace is a lenmar/Benjamin Moore color.
I can’t believe with a job this size and quality level that they didn’t buy an air assisted airless! I do cabinets with a 30 year old Kremlin 10-14 air mix. Lays down true glass. And the transfer efficiency is unmatchable. A true money printing machine
There's always one in the bunch. He's usually very easy to spot. He'll be the one with the meat pulled back. Dick did it not occur to you that you're looking at WET PAINT? In fact it wasn't orange peel it was more of a rippled appearance which could very well dry down perfect.
@@darrinlong5007 Sadly it's simple fact that with gravity feed gun you get smoothest finish. But if you like orange peel on your cabinet doors you can use gun in video.
@@mr.wizeguy8995 I've sprayed with gravity fed, Titan cup sprayers and airless and gotten glass finishes with all three, many more factors come in to play to achieve a factory finish than just the type of sprayer.
Thank you so much for these information. I would love to make my old oak cabinets look like that So do you think I can do it if I spackled them first? I looked too many times online to find the same paint that you used but I didn’t find the exact same one, please could you provide me a product name that I can use for paint? With too many thanks
Hello there John, no problem at all. you can message me on Instagram page @platinumfuturespainting or u can Google same and you will see the phone number. Not sure if I'm supposed to leave it on here..😬 thanks so much and I look forward to speaking with you
No doubt!!! This one was definitely a big boy!! was a huge project!! We all got a lot of satisfaction out of completing this one! Thanks for the comment 👍🙏
Hey Mark, thanks for the comment. So these were at the jobsite, but if I have to transport to a client I really like using that foam paper...I don't know what the real name is, I will.try to find it, I buy it from uniline, or shipping stores like ups or FedEx places it comes in rolls and it is like a thick foam paper and I wrap them in that! I use to use packing blankets, but the foam paper is easier! I have a little trick for using packing blankets for cabinets...should I do a quick little video and show you the trick?
@@PaintBoss I’m sure people would want to know. Client BM Advance paint, the can says “takes up to 30 days to fully cure” but neither I nor the client has time to wait that long. I just want to install them without scratches or finger prints
Hello Evan, well it depends on what material you ended up using. If it is latex, I always like to use really hot water and a rag and try to wipe off as soon as possible...usually works, but rag has to be really hot. if it is a Solvent base over spray, try crinckling masking paper...really s scrunch it up, and then use the masking paper at sand paper...this will lightly buff the overspray and make it smoother. Let me know if u have any questions and good luck!
Awesome work. I wanted to use a Lacquer bit was talked into Benjamin Moore Advance. I'm having a hard time with runoff due to the paint. Do you recommend the BMA or should I switch to the lacquer?
I really do like both!! I have to say, ever since we switched to Pigmented Laquer we have loved it. there really isn't many finishes out there that look better than a satin or eggshell sheen of Laquer, dries quick, sands nice and lots great. thanks so much for the comment🤝🙏
Sir I have used pu coat in white veneer but in one month it goes yellow ... I have used all white color veneer .what should I use that white veneer won't get yellow shade.
Hello Sanjay, It always depends on product, i personally love chantilly lace and pure white, it pigmented laquer i have not had bad yellowing, Sherwin chemical coatings, Gemini has a high solids laquer that i really like and Dunn edwards aristoshield is a waterborne alchyd and seems to not yellow either. Thanks so much for the comment and let me know if you have any of those where you are.
@@PaintBoss thanks for the reply sir .. here we have MRF company, Asian paints and premium company available .. for pu and lacquer paints.. we have used MRF company material and we got these yellow shade problems..
This was a dull rub satin finish, it was a Pigmented Laquer so I didn't need any clear coat, I really love using this stuff! Let me know what you think👊
Buenos días Por favor que clase de compresor (características técnicas) uso, con que presión de salida , que clase de recipiente y/o máquina uso para la pintura (en el vídeo la pistola no tiene tarro) , también que clase, marca, referencia de pinturas o pinturas de usaron para lograr el acabado que se ve en el vídeo. Gracias
Do you need to primer first? I have a vintage faux bamboo set I want to lacquer. It feels smooth like a countertop. It's factory finish from the 70s. Do I need to lightly sand it first? I have a spray gun. Do I need a special one? Sorry for all the questions. I cant seem to find anyone who can help. I've painted tons of furniture but never lacquer.
Just love the wild turkey walking by
You saw that too !!
I'm from New Mexico, thought it was a road runner when I first saw it. Wild turkey. Wild.
Its a peacock female. Called a peahen
@@abdulkackmack Turkey, Peacock or Labrador Retriever, They all cook up about the same.. Just don't forget the "Ketchup".
@@abdulkackmack No, filmed in North America. Female Turkey, wild. I have seen several up close, near my home.
Solid video, I've been in the trade 35 years and will retire next year. I remembered all the high end homes I was involved in after watching your video. i was a spray man for a few high end companies on the west coast. I'm glad i heard your comment that you would normally hang the doors because thats how i did it, made hanging systems out of one inch pipe, hooked the top or bottom of the doors and sprayed them with fans pulling the overspray from behind. then transfer them to hanging racks. I loved the result but the end game was exhausting, meticulous work for sure. I moved on to a sports facility position, do a little of everything now. I had a very diverse career in the trade. Pro's make it look easy, keep the great work coming....
@DanThaMan That would be a step in the right direction, of course without being able to read any spec/data sheet on the previous product I wouldn't be able to give you a slam dunk answer. Some pre- catalyzed materials have a recoat window. Can you get any information on the product, or if its unknown to you my only suggestion would be to try a test on a section of door and see if there is any rejection of the finish.
I want to see when it’s dry because when it’s wet paint it’s always nice
You can use WoodPrix instructions to make it in the cheapest way.
A method I used to remove dust from the air to get high gloss finishes directly from a spray gun after hours of trail and error (because I didn’t have a clean room) was spraying outside and wetting down the floor, yes the floor with water. When you spray and walk around your just kicking up dust that ends up on your finish. Also best not to judge the high gloss finish when it’s still wet.
that is a great idea 💡 Good looking out! I appreciate it 🙏 🤝
I’ve done that in my shop. It really keeps the dust down. The water sorta attracts the overspray as well, keeping the room a little more dust free.
It reduces static
Many people who paint a car at home wet the floor to keep down dust and hang clean plastic around since even the cleanest garage or carport still has dust and spiderwebs. Need ventilation, such as a box fan w/ filter strapped on, plus carbon filter mask if spraying 2-part automotive paint. A clean air breather is even better, but few have one.
I done our cabinets the same way with a harbor freight paint spray gun/pressure pot. I mixed Pentrol with oil base gloss to allow paint to thin relax slow the drying time, I’m no painter but they’re slick and smooth. Great job! I also bought a painters hood from Amazon $20, piped in forced air with a regulator to keep paint out of my hair eyes and nose.
Yessss! That sounds amazing! YOu are speaking my language. I would always use penatrol with oil gloss, and man o man i think there is no better finish and look! Great job, and do me a favor and send me a pic or info about the regulator for air...that is a great idea
did.
I want to try this . Did you mix the Penatrol with the Gemini paint?
A Hard working & skilled tradesman! Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much brother 🙏 I really appreciate it 💪🤝🙏
With each Cabinet I finish, a new experience I have. Years after years of experience with Cabinet Refinish, the conclusion is always perfect. Congratulations, a wonderful job.
Boston, MA.
Copy paste comment from another RUclipsrs video?
@@watchchannel8201yes it is! …..gallery vs emerald
Get box fans and attach an hvac filter, removes like all the dust from the air almost immediately, it’s awesome
Love the glossy cabinet looks more modern.
It’s wet………..
Refreshing to see a tutorial on the correct way to refinish cabinets.. I won’t even entertain the thought of redoing cabinets in latex or even oil in most cases.
*LACQUER* 👍🏻
"Refinish cabinets" with cheap white "spray paint" not remotely intended for "natural fibers"? That's funny shit.
About as funny as pretending he's "refinishing" and not doing "new construction" and such a shitty job of it he needs "car paint" on plywood "custom cabinets" applied to VERTICAL surfaces "laid out" horizontally to fill all in a "flood coat" in order to cover or rather fill all the "imperfections" in the base material.
Any "custom cabinets" that need to be spray-painted to a "glassy" laquer finish "on site" must be real cheap pieces of shit made by a "general contractor" from bottom drawer material no real "refinisher" would waste time, effort, talent, skill money and paint "refinishing" and no real cabinetmaker would do the same making in the first place.
When a "how-to" video doesn't show the finished product period much less in use you can rest assured the end did not justify the means even when the means are as cheap as they could possibly be.
No wood surface is "uniform" in hardness, density and color especially unprimed and unsealed and no matter how you "lay out" wooden objects "one coat coverage" ending in a "glassy finish" is a practical impossibility IF by "glassy" you mean "smooth as glass" and modern float glass is your example.
The unprimed and unsealed wood surface - which is ALWAYS "laminated" in some way, shape or form regardless of material including PLYWOOD - when you get into cabinetmaking - will never evenly absorb a "flood coat" and it will never "dry" (laquers "cure" like concrete and do not simply "dry") evenly and to a uniform and "glassy" surface and finish ESPECIALLY "laid out" where it will STILL "run" toward any "low spots" leaving high spots "thin" and low spots "thick" and both reflecting light and objects differently leaving a "wavy" reflection and shine that will stand out even more with the cabinets and doors actually hung and mainly at "eye level" with the rest "angled" relative to eye level where it can easily be looked down upon or up at in a well-lit and high-use and high-traffic "workspace" where there are plenty of other "glassy" objects and surfaces that are also "laid out" and have no high spots or low spots so that the "wavy" cabinet doors can't be missed.
VARNISH exists as a "clear coat" and "filler" for wood specifically because "perfect" wood surfaces are impossible to "craft" AND if and when you want a "glassy" monochromatic finish over imperfect wood you put paint OVER varnish just like when "car painting" if you are not skilled, talented, dedicated and experienced to do "perfect" METALWORK that is "glassy smooth" while still "bare metal" and after priming-sealing you do "bodywork" with "bondo" up to and including a vehicle-covering "glide coat" dragging that crap over every square inch and getting "full coverage" before "finish sanding" the body FILLER back down to "bare primer" for a "glassy smooth" so-called "paint job" with a "flood coat" of two-stage base-clear paint you'll end up with 10 coats of clear on just to have enough "depth" to "cut and buff" it back down to "smooth as glass" appearance even though the actual "paint job" is as "wavy" as those "refinished" cabinet doors ended up being.
So who are you "redoing cabinets" for?
Are you a DIY "house flipper" that can't "redo" that are of sufficient quality to justify "redoing" properly and still "make money", not DIY "redo" them at any level of profit or loss because you suck at "working with your hands" in general and damage them to the point only "refinishing" them with a "flood coat" of "laquer" on the "laid out" doors will hide your "imperfections" or are you just too lazy to do them right on your own dime?
You sure as hell aren't a professional remodeler/refinisher for any private customer if you get to choose "laquer" and if you think "redoing" with "laquer" instead of "oil" OR "varnish" is an "alternative" rather than a substitute you obviously have no business in the "redoing" business on a private customer's dime.
So...that leaves what if the answer is none of the above?
Government work? Are you a "redoer" of "affordable housing"? Or maybe "public spaces"?
You idiots going "laquer" for cabinets in "spaces" that happen to be where most residential FIRES begin that have no fucking clue that there is more to the SAFETY of "paint" than how toxic or poisonous or flammable or explosive the "fumes" are while "wet" REALLY have no business substituting what's "cheapest" and/or "easiest" for what is "safest" period much less in "jurisdictions" where you idiotically operate entirely without adult supervision even if only temporarily.
Which is the case because no "corner cutter" ever makes it to "retirement age"
in an "industry" where he or she is barely the smartest person in the room when alone much less when any "casual observer" is around that's curious or even just bored enough to pick up the container of whatever "corner cutting" is being used and read the label for himself or herself when the corner cutter himself/herself can't answer simple questions about the what/when/where/how the product is properly and safely used as an "alternative" to a much more commonly used and seen and observed "industry standard" satisfactorily.
"Laquer" is "banned" in many jurisdictions because not it's a "fire hazard" for real trained professionals that read and follow directions but because of "self-taught" wannabes that failed shop class and/or science class or cut class the day(s) "fire safety" in the shop/lab was taught and never got/get that LIQUIDS and SOLIDS never "catch fire" but the FLUIDS - INCLUDING "VAPORS" AKA GASES - THEY "GIVE OFF" WHEN HEATED DO.
The reason damn near all "petroleum-based" solvents, paints and other "shop supplies" are now "banned" in jurisdictions without "free healthcare" is the rate at which illiterate and/or lazy "workers" in more "liberal" jurisdictions that still have not "banned" them kill and maim innocent bystanders when they "emigrate" to America and bring their "self taught" and/or "apprentice education" idiocy, reckless, clueless and fatal "know-how" with them and "start a business" in an "industry" they really have no clue whatsoever about when it comes to "workplace safety".
And 99% of them are "functionally illiterate" when it comes to the "science" on an instruction label or brochure much less an MSDS.
I stopped using lacquer 3 years ago when I figured out that PPG Breakthrough V50 is rated for cabinetry. Lacquer is good, but it often yellows over time and gets brittle. Breakthrough doesn't do either of those and cleans up with water, dries to touch in 15 minutes (recoat in an hour) and doesn't have the bad smell.
But nice work. Lacquer is fun to spray when you have the right equipment and a ton of openings to knock out.
Do you use an HVLP sprayer?
@@AJF4Me Yes. We have a Graco 9.0 we use with a #2 fluid set. To get a nice, smooth finish, you need to put about 10% water in it. Otherwise the Breakthrough will dry too fast leaving an orange peel texture.
@@AJF4Me Also, make sure you're using Breakthrough V50 and not V250. The V250 isn't rated for cabinets.
@@dgoddard ah thanks! I've been using BM Advance with a Fuji sprayer but I have to thin it out so much. I'll try that PPG paint
@@dgoddard Got it!
The actual painting is a great visual asmr. Love it.
I'm glad you like it!!
Beautiful job
Looks awesome dude 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much brother 🙏 I really appreciate it.
@@PaintBoss your welcome brother
Excellent finish especially as your on site, 20 years ago I used to work in a car body shop and we used tack clothes/rags which did an amazing job at removing all the dust prior to painting.
thank you Mathew for the comment 🙏 I do love me some tack cloths for dusting. thank you
Great work on the spraying
Thank you so much gastro, we appreciate it, thank you🤝🙏
“Final money shot is going to be on the faces” fantastic stuff.
Thank you so much for the comment 👍🙏
I’m an old school painter... if I’m spraying wood work I will always use Cancel primer first and always use Satin Impervo both sold at Benjamin Moore. It’s so good no thinning no nothing spray right out of the can if you want!
thank you Kevin, I appreciate it. I will definitely try it. thanks for the heads up
Satin Impervo white always , I mean always will yellow within a short amount of time , I don’t use it anymore
I like what you did and The house in the back looks amazing
Thank you so much 🙏 Yes this house was amazing and it took almost 3 years to complete! I want to put up some video of the inside, but apparently it is going to be in some magazines and trade publications so I have to wait until those are published first. thanks for the comment
Nice process. Keep it up Paint Boss
Super slick!!!!
Seems like a vacuum would be better so all that dust doesn’t get blown into the surrounding air. You know what your doing to get them looking sweet! Nice job!
well done chiko...
“Our final money shot is on the faces”. That usually cost extra 🤣
Lovely finish. 208 tip looks the business
Fantastic
It looks great. I have a question though. I’ve seen clear lacquer turn milky in the presence of heat and moisture. Would you even use a pigmented lacquer in a kitchen if it weren’t already white?
Yes, we have had really good results with the pigmented laquer. Out here all the cabinet companies use either pigmented laquer or conversion varnish and we have had really good results with both. Thanks so much for the comment,👍🙏
@@PaintBoss Thank you for responding. I’m actually remodeling a kitchen in a house built in 1922. I want to respect the house and avoid anything that even hints of plastic. Understanding lacquer better is really helpful.
Nice video, good information .
Thank you so , I really appreciate the comment 🙏👍
Wonderful
thank you so much, we really appreciate the comment 😊 🤝🙏🙏
Hey paint boss will that machine shot conversation varnish?
Hi, thanks for the vid. If I want to paint car paint for high gloss finish on a normal household paint. Do I use car paint primer in between?
Hello there, and thanks for the question! If you are going to paint a car, I would highly recommend getting automotive paint for that. It is a totally different component chemical that is in automotive paint, that is why it is so expensive...That being said if it is something for your house, then absolutely you can order a high gloss sheen and it will turn out beautifully! Let me know if you are talking about doing a car...we have shot a certain type of paint on our work vans and it has worked out pretty well! But yes, always use a compatible primer before using any specialty paint. Thanks for the comment! Let me know if u have any other questions
@@PaintBoss painting a cabinet, but has normal housrhold gloss paint painted before. I want to paint it with a high.gloss 2K paint. Thanks for your response.
@@buyisilengubane4559 My friend own Car paint shop and he always uses PPG Selemix paint when he paints wood and if i'm not wrong it doesn't need any primer.
well done congratulations
Hi, thanks the video. Wondering, does that lacquer provide a HARD (shell like) finish when cured?
Where did you get the base to spray the doors the 4 single plastic ones thanks God bless you
Thank you so much brother 👍🙏 We got this from a Benjamin Moore supplier who has a cabinet division for special tinted Laquers. thanks for the comment 🙏
@@PaintBoss
😀👍thanks I'm from San Diego California God bless you
have you ever used sherwin williams kemvar plus? if so how does the gemini product compare?
Hello Kered, good call, I have actually never tried the kemvar product, but I have heard it mentioned before so I'm definitely looking forward to trying it out! I do really like the finish we have been getting out of the Gemini though for cabinets. I find it really easy to work with and sand. Thanks for the recommendation, I will try it👊🙏
@@PaintBoss i actually want to try gemini's pigmented conversion varnish to see how it compares. sherwin williams's clear conversion varnish isn't very good (not durable) but their pigmented is fantastic.
Hey Paintboss! I’m about to do this at my new home. I have one question , what size nozzle do I use on my HVLP spray gun and what’s the “perfect” PSI ?? Thanks for sharing.
Looks great
Thank you, What kind of primer do you use?
I just wat to ask what kind of paint did u use poly acrylic or water base thx perfect job
Can you please provide a link to paint? Where can I buy it from?
Did you mix the lacquer with the paint or did you only just spray on the lacquer right now?
Hi I have high gloss kitchen doors like this . Do you have any recommendations for products that can make them glosser and remove surface scratches that happened through time . Just to make them shine and brilliant again.
Tnx 🙏
The Bird walking by at. 1:57 🤣🤣
Perfect! flawless.
Thank you! 😊
Was waiting for the how to.... what gun, what psi setting, what mixture, what distance is best, anything added to the mix etc etc etc... All you have done is shown a video of you working on a job.
thought the same thing, also did it level out after drying, it was glossy but not dead flat
ya, sorry I was just getting started and learning how to explain more of the process. We are trying to explain more now and cover all the bases. thanks for the feedback
yes it really leveled out beautifully! this was an eggshell sheen so it turned out looking amazing. Aristoshield eggshell is the bomb!
Hey, what kind of spray gun are you using in this video? What kind of tip aswell?
Hello Dustin, so for the bigger doors and panels we are using a graco 395 with 50 percent pressure and a 308 and 310 fine finish low pressure tip💪 for the smaller frames and doors we used the hvlp to control our fan and product so we could build nice coats that lay out evenly after they cure. thanks so much for the comment 👊🤝🙏
@@PaintBoss thanks for the response! Great job
Painting cabinets for a new house? Perhaps the new cabinets didn't come in the color the designer specified? Pre-catalyzed lacquer or do you add catalyst as you use it? I've read the pre-catalyzed are good for ~3 months before using them. I doesn't seem lacquers can be bought any more in California except by individuals.
Was your gun running off the small compressor in the backround, i only saw one line and it looked like it was feeding the blowing nozzle? I have a similar size compressor with a lvlp gun but i domt seem to get the same consistent flow you had? Thanks
Hey Daniel, thanks for the comment. So we were running both, this was such a big job..223 cabinet doors in total, so we actually ran both. The compressor is 13 gallons and we had a cup gun and blow off tip from the compressor for the smaller doors and frames, but what you see me shooting is from our airless sprayer with the pressure way down and a fine finish tip. thanks for the comment
@@PaintBoss right I thought the pressure seemed quite imoressive for that small compressor, can I ask what airless system your using? Thanks
Nice video. Do you thin the lacquer or spray it right out of the can? Thanks
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, it's been crazy around here. No. With this material I like to go straight out of the can👍🙏 thanks for the comment
Can I brush or roll on the lacquer on top of an oil-based painted finished vanity top.
Hello there, well it depends...did you paint the oil base on the vanity? You can scuff sand gently and brush some brushing Laquer. you would need to buy a specific Laquer called brushing Laquer, or you can buy some spray cans and get that nice spray finish. My favorite can of Laquer is the deft spray can. you would probably only need a can or 2 and it should be beautiful result 💪👊 Let me know how it goes!
paint Boss, do you have to top coat this paint? and how many layers of coat do you apply?
@Last Comment2 Thank you
Hello Joseph, sorry for the delay. No we don't have to topcoat this product, it is a pigmented laquer, and usually i like doing 2 to 3 coats and they will hold up really well. thanks again for the comment.
@@PaintBoss Thanks for the info, and more power to your channel.
Great Video turkey 🦃 kills me haha
Where do I find pigmented lacquer? How many coats does it take to get that high gloss finish? That’s the look I want to have done for the headliner panels in the interior and exterior of my yacht.
What kind of sprayer are you using to spray the bigger panels
Hello Marshall, thanks for the comment. So on the bigger panels we are using a graco 395 at about 50 percent pressure on a fine finish low pressure 308 and 310 fine finish tip. Thanks for the question 🤝💪🙏
i am korean paint you tube 안녕하십니까요,감사드립니다,,,,,You're the best teacher! Thank you so much,,,,,,,Fantastic ,,환상적인 영상입니다,,깊은 감명을 받았습니다,,님 부자되시고 행복하시길 부처님의 이름으로 기도합니다,👍
Hola saludos desde chile, amigo que punta y que presión utilizo, gracias por tu tiempo y respuesta
Hola Karin, lo ciento mi Español es Mas o menos malo...😆 pero you nesecito practical! Yo creo su pregunta es que tipo si. Yo me gusto una 310 fine finish, o una 308 fine finish low pressure. No sabe en Español, pero muchas gracias por su respuesta 👍👊🤝🙏 lo ciento por mi espanol 🙏
Hey buddy, what size tip on pigment lacquer
In case we already have painted the wood work and desire to repaint a glossy touch with original paint not so clean and glossy?? Do we need to scratch all paint and sand the wood work?? If yes what size of sand paper to use and tips plz? Thanks
Hello Naeem, so yes if you are going to paint a new coat on cabinets that are already painted then definitely sand them a little bit with a fine sanding sponge or some 220 or 280 and you will get a really nice finish. Just remember to wipe and clean off the cabinets after you sand them.Thank for the comment and let me know if you have any more questions. 💪👍
@@PaintBoss thanks bro. It's actually wainscoting wall and the wood PCs are curvy and notchy ..so lot of work to do 😍
Any technique to sand it nicely or just take time to sand with normal paper ?
oh yes brother, I know all about the curvy pain the ass trim packs!🤣 I would say next time your at the paint store buy some of the sanding pads...not as thick as sponges, but like the cabinet guys use...I think they are called sanding pads, that and just paper..sometime we fold things or creses into our sand paper to match the trim profile. Let me know how it goes!
@@PaintBoss Haha ya I know , good advice was thinking too about pads I ordered already online hope to get it soon..let's see... am just fond of wood work but not a professional like u ..would keep u posted.. have a good day .. STAY BLESSED BROTHER
@@PaintBoss We just received new cabinets painted, but my wife doesn't like the color. Would it be ok to directly paint over the new paint?
What can i use to make my white kitchen cabinets shiny/glassy after they were painted with semi-gloss white paint? it was resurfaced and painted about a month ago, is there a certain top coat i can use
Yes, there is always a way, it depends on what is on your cabinets now, is it latex alkyd or laquer? Let me know and I can try to help recommend some products 💪👍
What make/model sprayer are you using in the video? Was it necessary to thin your lacquer?
Thanks for video, I have a question what kind of spray machine do you have I saw in your video you have two . Last question where can I get those paint?
Hello Tommy 👋 and thanks for the comment. So you are right, on this job we had so many different sizes of cabinets i used 2 different set ups. I used a graco 395 with a fine finish tip for the big doors, and for the smaller doors and frames I used a cup gun hvlp off of a 13 gallon air compressor. This uses less material and can get some of the small detail edges, while not over flowing them with to much product. I used a Gemini Pigmented Laquer for these doors, and you can buy at any dunn Edwards, Gemini dealer, and or cabinet shop/hardware shop that sells stain and Laquer to cabinet makers.
Was that door just primed or what prep prior to painting. What products were used prior to spraying ?Thanks
Hello JP so this was a color change on lacquered cabinets, so we sanded all of them down, cleaned them and then shot 2 coats of Pigmented Laquer in a 7 degree sheen. They turned out beautiful! thanks for the comment 👍
Not sure of the term pigmented lacquer. All lacquer has pigment unless it's a clear or sanding sealer. Do you mean you added pigment to clear?
out here we call it Pigmented Laquer or tinted Laquer...meaning it's not a clear coat, it is whatever color the client chooses, and the color and Laquer are in the same can. Saves time, and flows really nicely out of the gun. Thanks for your comment 👍👊🙏
Great info.
Thank you so much 🥰
What grits do you suggest sanding with for the finest finish
1-Where do you get pigmented lacquers to spray? They don't have them at my local Sherwin Williams or Kelley Moore (maybe it's because I'm in CA?).
2-Do you use any additives to help the lacquer lay down and not orange peel like a floetrol or something similar?
Hello there Michael, you know, I wouldn't doubt that, it could be a regulation thing in Cali, we had them when I was there but I left socal about 14 years ago, so I don't know anymore. I would figure that cabinet shops would still have to have access to some, but not sure...maybe look for or Google a Gemini dealer and see if they do, if not dunn Edwards has a really great alkyd water borne product that sprayes and holds up pretty similar, its called Aristoshield and you can buy that in cali for sure. 2, when I shoot Laquer I don't ever add anything to it, just use fine finish or hvlp and it lays down. With latex I do love me some floatrol though! good call! thanks for tbe comment 🤝💪
@@PaintBoss Not sure if you mentioned it or not but what sealer or primer are you using?
When spraying the sides of doors, do you spray them when doing the backs only? I didn't see you spray them when doing front. Beautiful job BTW.
Thank you Allie, I appreciate it very much 😊 So great question, and it depends on the profile of the cabinet! I am a firm believer in trying to spray the edges at least 2x while shooting the back and once with the fronts...reason being, is I want to build the millage on the edges cause that is where all the fingers, scuffs and pulls happen for the client over time...however you are right! Athos was the final coat of the cabinet faces, and I didn't want to risk overspraying the backs with overspray dust, so on the final coat with this profile I like to just focus on the face, since it has such an intricate profile! Great question and thanks for the comment🤝🙏
@@PaintBoss thanks. I'll do that then.
Yo yo instasprayers checkin in to the paint bosses RUclips! Looking good brother!
Big up !!!
Yeahhhhh!!! so good to hear brother 🙌 I really appreciate it 🙏 Hope you guys are doing well over there, and I really appreciate you reaching out on the RUclips channel! Still trying to get the hang of RUclips and talking to my phone, but I hope it's not looking too cheezy!
Do I need an air compressor, can I just use the 120v hvlp system. it's comes with with 0.9 and 1.8 tip. Would this work
For those asking about the paint. I'm pretty sure he is using Lenmar Ultra-lac by Benjamin Moore and NOT Gemini as stated. Ultra-lac is a Lenmar brand, and Chantilly Lace is a lenmar/Benjamin Moore color.
It doesn't matter where the color comes from. I mix SW colors in BM paint all the time.
We are in fact using Gemini and "custom" color matched it to the Benjamin Moore color (Chantilly Lace).
So do I have to sand before I redo the cabinets or can I just paint over it ?
Excelente trabalho, parabéns 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Muchas gracias 🙏💪🤝
How long did it take to complete this? Per cabinet (priming, painting, drying, glossing, drying)
That still had some orange peel effect. You get smoother finish with gravity feed air gun.
I can’t believe with a job this size and quality level that they didn’t buy an air assisted airless! I do cabinets with a 30 year old Kremlin 10-14 air mix. Lays down true glass. And the transfer efficiency is unmatchable. A true money printing machine
There's always one in the bunch. He's usually very easy to spot. He'll be the one with the meat pulled back. Dick did it not occur to you that you're looking at WET PAINT? In fact it wasn't orange peel it was more of a rippled appearance which could very well dry down perfect.
@@darrinlong5007 Sadly it's simple fact that with gravity feed gun you get smoothest finish. But if you like orange peel on your cabinet doors you can use gun in video.
@@mr.wizeguy8995 I've sprayed with gravity fed, Titan cup sprayers and airless and gotten glass finishes with all three, many more factors come in to play to achieve a factory finish than just the type of sprayer.
@@darrinlong5007 Titan cup sprayer $40 for sure is far about glass finish most likely grass finish.
🚨LACQUER DANGER LACQUER DANGER WEWWOOO WEWOOO🚨
Thank you so much for these information.
I would love to make my old oak cabinets look like that
So do you think I can do it if I spackled them first?
I looked too many times online to find the same paint that you used but I didn’t find the exact same one, please could you provide me a product name that I can use for paint?
With too many thanks
Swedish Putty would do the job
How do you get rid of scratches deep inside 2nd coat.
Oh cool! you're local! How can I get a quote? I have a small kitchen to be repainted....
Hello there John, no problem at all. you can message me on Instagram page @platinumfuturespainting or u can Google same and you will see the phone number. Not sure if I'm supposed to leave it on here..😬 thanks so much and I look forward to speaking with you
@@PaintBoss I left my contact info on your website.
Ok great! thanks John, I will look that up and give you a ring on Tuesday. thanks again
What size tip are you using
Are you using air-less sprayer?
heck of a big house
No doubt!!! This one was definitely a big boy!! was a huge project!! We all got a lot of satisfaction out of completing this one! Thanks for the comment 👍🙏
Good job amigo
How do you get the cabinet doors to your customer? I thought about wrapping them in masking paper but maybe that is too scratchy.
Hey Mark, thanks for the comment. So these were at the jobsite, but if I have to transport to a client I really like using that foam paper...I don't know what the real name is, I will.try to find it, I buy it from uniline, or shipping stores like ups or FedEx places it comes in rolls and it is like a thick foam paper and I wrap them in that! I use to use packing blankets, but the foam paper is easier! I have a little trick for using packing blankets for cabinets...should I do a quick little video and show you the trick?
@@PaintBoss I’m sure people would want to know. Client BM Advance paint, the can says “takes up to 30 days to fully cure” but neither I nor the client has time to wait that long. I just want to install them without scratches or finger prints
Bubble wrap.
That's the house I will get in one month!
Right! This one was a really special home. Beautiful project! Thanks for the comment 👍🙏
Do you have any tips for removing overspray if some of the other doors got some overspray in them?
Hello Evan, well it depends on what material you ended up using. If it is latex, I always like to use really hot water and a rag and try to wipe off as soon as possible...usually works, but rag has to be really hot. if it is a Solvent base over spray, try crinckling masking paper...really s scrunch it up, and then use the masking paper at sand paper...this will lightly buff the overspray and make it smoother. Let me know if u have any questions and good luck!
What about using a 3000 grit sand paper?? Wet sand?
Awesome work. I wanted to use a Lacquer bit was talked into Benjamin Moore Advance. I'm having a hard time with runoff due to the paint. Do you recommend the BMA or should I switch to the lacquer?
I really do like both!! I have to say, ever since we switched to Pigmented Laquer we have loved it. there really isn't many finishes out there that look better than a satin or eggshell sheen of Laquer, dries quick, sands nice and lots great. thanks so much for the comment🤝🙏
Is that an airless sprayer ?
What brand / type paint are you using ?
what grit sandpaper did you use to sand the finish off
I believe this was 220, not a ton of pressure on it, but 180 to 220 is our go to👍👊 thanks so much for the comment 👍
Sir I have used pu coat in white veneer but in one month it goes yellow ... I have used all white color veneer .what should I use that white veneer won't get yellow shade.
Hello Sanjay, It always depends on product, i personally love chantilly lace and pure white, it pigmented laquer i have not had bad yellowing, Sherwin chemical coatings, Gemini has a high solids laquer that i really like and Dunn edwards aristoshield is a waterborne alchyd and seems to not yellow either. Thanks so much for the comment and let me know if you have any of those where you are.
@@PaintBoss thanks for the reply sir .. here we have MRF company, Asian paints and premium company available .. for pu and lacquer paints.. we have used MRF company material and we got these yellow shade problems..
thanks really helpful
Is the final product that shiny? Or is that just the wet look?
It was just wet. I paint cabinets for a living. The title of this video is misleading.
I did the same but got sinking bubbles when it dried. What did I do wrong? I now have to sand it again
I’m new to this wanna give cabinets makeover, hate to dismantle a complete functioning cabinets
was that a clear satin or there was color to it?
This was a dull rub satin finish, it was a Pigmented Laquer so I didn't need any clear coat, I really love using this stuff! Let me know what you think👊
Buenos días
Por favor que clase de compresor (características técnicas) uso, con que presión de salida , que clase de recipiente y/o máquina uso para la pintura (en el vídeo la pistola no tiene tarro) , también que clase, marca, referencia de pinturas o pinturas de usaron para lograr el acabado que se ve en el vídeo. Gracias
yo uso graco 395 airless, y 10 gallon air compressor para la pequeno cosas. lo ciento por mi Español. gracias por la comment🙏
Gracias .y pregunto de nuevo: que clase, marca y etc sobre la pintura usada en el vídeo??
@@carlosjuliopatarroyotorres9666 Se muestra en 2:17
Do they make other colors? I want to lacquer a piece of furniture mint green.
I love the 1:31 "Mike"
Hahah, You got it 😂🤣
How do u get the paint so glossy? Adding a small amount of Paint thinner?
Do you need to primer first? I have a vintage faux bamboo set I want to lacquer. It feels smooth like a countertop. It's factory finish from the 70s. Do I need to lightly sand it first? I have a spray gun. Do I need a special one? Sorry for all the questions. I cant seem to find anyone who can help. I've painted tons of furniture but never lacquer.
is the orange peel normal?
How long you have to wait to recoat ?
ON this stuff its actually pretty quick. It dries pretty quick and usually ok to lightly sand after about an hour. thanks for the comment