Will an Oil Extractor Get All The Oil? (MK7.5 Golf R 5000 Mile Service)
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- Опубликовано: 24 сен 2019
- Using an engine oil extractor makes doing a VW oil change SUPER easy. The MK7.5 Golf R is the perfect car to extract the oil rather than drain the engine oil. But does using the oil extractor get all the oil out? Today we change the engine oil in the mk7.5 Golf R and test it out. We will use the extractor to get as much of the 5.7L out. Then we will remove the drain plug and see how much was left behind.
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The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between the Humble Mechanic and you. Every situation may be different, and the Humble Mechanic does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. The Humble Mechanic and any sponsors of this video will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk. 
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i think it's worth mentioning that since the extractor tube hits the oil pan while draining, the very bottom portion was actually sucked out at the very beginning, and what comes out when you open the drain plug was probably what was sitting at the top
My point would be a property maintained car wouldn’t have that even to worry about.
@@HumbleMechanic oh yeah, no doubt. I just wanted to say it to people who are arguing over this point.
Best comment ever!
When I use extractor I usually wait 5 minutes after all the oil was extracted and try again. It gets the rest that way.
I've done a little research online and found it maybe best to do your 1st oil change after 50 miles on a new car to drain metal deposits from brand new car parts. After the 50 mile mark, proceed with standard oil change intervals.
Informative video, though!! I'd stick with the drain plug and see if there's a reusable one. The splash guard is a pain in the ass. I ended up using washers to hold the bolts in place on '20 Honda Fit.... 4 or 5 bolts usually works.
Everything should be in suspension in the oil if you ran it before extracting.
My 1.0l tsi first oil change was 2 years or 20k miles.
No idea why.
@@davidgooch5883 how bout a no. You acting like your car is worth more than your house
@@v12-s65 -- It is.
This tool would be excellent for people that, don't have a garage, or living some sort of complex where they're not technically allowed to work on their car! With this, they can't accuse you of making a mess of oil in the parking lot!
90.00 way not worth it, works better for tran fluid, but use a hand syringe, much better.
This tool is also excellent for the “well-travelled” among us.
At 70 years, I don’t bend or twist like i used to, so hauling out the jack, jack-stands and assorted, and raising vehicle and safetying… well, it’s s difficult for me (not that I’d ever admit to this outside of a courtroom).
Top-side oil changes are a God-send for me, and there are many others.
Nah, still for most car you need to jack them up to replace the oil filters.
I'm looking to start a local mobile oil change service. That's what led me here! Would be perfect to show up at a warehouse or factory and get 20+ customers in 1 spot this tool would be gold!
@@sixsierra my car has filter on the top 😁
I’ve been using an extractor for the years. The convenience of using it means I change the oil more regularly. I was interested to see what was left in the sump. I can live with 100mls, which is about a fiftieth of the overall fill. Since I change the oil so regularly I can definitely live with that. With the the extractor I can do an oil and filter change in ten minutes. No raising the car, no removing panels and no mess. Works for me. Great video. One other thing, I always buy used cars. When I get a replacement, first thing I do is I swap out the oil In it with some cheap oil. I run it for a day or two with that, then I swap out that cheap oil with a top quality oil. It’s almost like an engine flush.
100 ml is 3.38 oz
@@jwattsup My car takes 7 .5 quarts, im not worried about that. There is residual oil all over the engine anyways, and it is getting diluted, if u change ur oil more often than normal because of how easy it is, i would say it is still a win in the long run. I been using one of those, and dont think twice about it, of course it helps with oil filter on top like my bmw has. I got 240k on my e46 which i still drive here and there as its a fun drive and runs excellent. That also is not highway miles, its city miles, only thing i have done other than change oil, is replaced water pump, plugs once and coil packs. So for using an oil extractor entire life of the car, and car is 21 years old, i would say it works pretty well.
@@reality150tv not a good example... That e46 is eternal 😀
@@eduardovcalado wtf are you talking about
@@reality150tv I believe he was being sarcastic knowing that BMW model will last long regardless😎
When I change the oil I'm not comfortable leaving ANY oil. I do a complete tear down and rebuild to make sure there's no oil left :-P
Right on
@Satchel McQueen Video The best for my engine, bounty paper towels after I take apart the engine
I buy a new car every 5k miles
Lol just get a new car whenever it's time for an oil change
Who does oil changes when I can get a new car that doesn’t need one?
We have a Golf 4 TDI from 2000. Always done with an oil extractor. Engine is now at 650.000km. Never had problems.
Damn thats 403k miles.. mines got 323k miles..and counting!
Wow. I just rolled 160k.
lol i dont think ive ever seen a 4th golf tdi with less than 450,000km
Dan Dusome my golf 4 1.9 tdi has 220,000km
@@kinecty111 ATD 325 k km, just today replaced new turbo for it
Another cool thing about an oil extractor is that if you overfill you can easily remove extra oil.
bottom line which ever you like to do works fine for an oil change as he proves with this video plain and simple
You can always avoid that by not putting in that last litre, rule of thumb. 👍🏻
You can also loosen the oil filter and let some oil drain out. Way more flow control than messing with the drain plug.
I feel like the extractor is very convenient for someone who doesnt have a space to work on their car. I know from experience some apartment complexes do not let you work on your car, so an extractor would be faster and less risky.
Exactly my problem in my apartment.
@@abdullast3434 ha, same here, no oil changes, That's what they think lol
I do it right on the street 0_0
I remove one wheel where the oil filter is and drain the oil. Meanwhile I put wheel back on for discretion and just sit in the car while oil is dripping. Then I remove the filter, put new one back in, drain plug in, clean up, new oil in. I pour old oil into the chug where the new oil was and I am done. 30 min, no mess at all, nobody question me what I'm doing.
My complex doesn't allow them either they tell us we have to do it in our garage but there is literally barely enough room to even park or a car in the garage saw changing oil in there is literally impossible I literally have barely enough room to open the door so I do it outside anyways but I try to do it fast enough to where none of the neighbors see me but this one time some Karen came out and saw what I was doing and immediately took pictures and about a couple weeks or so later I received a letter in the mail saying that it was my first offense and that I'm not allowed to do it and on the second offense will have to pay a fee. I like to change my oil by draining it preferably but I might have to look into this even though I wasn't a big fan of it
I used an extractor at my apartments, after I finished the oil and filter change and checked oil level it was still black, so I would suggest doing oil change the classic way
I used an extractor for years. I sold my last car at 178,000 miles and it was still going strong so I can attest that half cup of leftover oil doesn’t make any difference.
No ramps or fussing with the belly tray and I’d have had no trouble changing my oil in a suit and tie if I’d chosen to. The only reason I stopped using the extractor is I now have a BMW which doesn’t have a dipstick. Now there’s an abomination!
No dip stick... wtf
Yeah, I belive the oil level is shown in the dashboard
Yep! Same in my Porsche Cayenne.
Yooo touregs with the v8s dont that shit is annoying never get a v8 touregs if ur doing maintenance on it
Don't it have a plug where the dipstick would be, ya pull that and suck out the oil, ?
As they say: "The Solution to Polution is Dilution"
With only .1L of oil left in you have more than 98% of the fluid being new. With the underbody shield in place that I seem to strip half the nut clips whenever I touch them, I'm personally more inclined to use an extractor.
You do not need to remove the belly pan to remove the drain plug on this car - it ends before the back of the oil pan.
@@rjw123987 not familiar the Golf R specifically, just the Mk7 TDI... you still have to pull the underbody tray to get at the oil filter... this is why for $80 the dealer does the oil change (especially when just the oil and filter alone come to around $70)
@@exparrot9074 Yes, for TDI. I made a access hole in the pan
@BassVentura you do not change the filter every oil change?
Hansel Franzen What sludge? Drop the pan. There is none.
I think the best practice is changing oil every weekend with complete engine replacement. Only this way you can be sure all the oil is completely out.
Love it
Mate I do a lot of work around audi cars which is still vw and we do all the service with sucking oil out. In the future you won't have any other option just suck it out. Pro tip : when you get out all the oil just fill it with a bit of a fresh oil and suck it up again until you start sucking out clean oil.
Does anyone roll the ( O ) ring anymore to take twists out of the ring with an awl or small screwdriver .
I would not have it any other way
When using an extractor, put some clean oil at the end (like 100ml) then extract some more. When the oil becomes clear, that’s when you know you cleared the drain pan of old oil.
Update: for the anal complainers, we understand it’s not going to be perfect. But if you change the oil regularly from the get go and always use synthetic this works. It’s not meant for those with high mileage and with a lot of sludge on the bottom. You’d have to do engine flush and drain the traditional way of course before you do something like this.
Can you put cheap oil in it? i am using royal purple or amsoil
Ooh good tip
Great idea 💡
I mean… the oil left behind is less than 2%. I feel completely confortable leaving it behind.
@@gtaitbiz7787 not a good idea because mixing oils from different companies can gum up small holes.
I just cringe when I see composite plastic oil pans, plastic drain plugs, oil pickup and windage trays. So sad.
Its alot cheaper
ExTaCiii of course bottom line counts for everything, manufacturers always work on compromise vs cost.
You're stuck in the past man
Incognito nah fella I know. The day will come when your vehicle is made entirely of composite materials for recycling, keep the car for 5 years then it’s recycled. Vintage cars will no longer exist.
I totally agree with you.
I change oil on my bmw twice a year (every 8,000 miles) in september and march so that it is changed for winter and summer. Been using an extractor for the past 4 changes now and i have to say it is a game changer! So much easier for the DIY maintainer!
Hi I have 320d m47n2 I'm really interested in buying one of these oil extraction machine, so I can change my oil every 6 month, I was wondering which brand and model you bought for your BMW thanks in advance
@@ravenkf142 I bought a Sealey 6.5L extractor:) great bit of kit!
@@drivelife.channel brilliant I'm going to buy one especially now she's 17 years old hence me wanting to change the oil every 6 months. Would you be able to tell me the model number of the Sealy you bought there's a few 6.5 litre ones Thanks so much for your help ☺️
When i change oil, i actually put a bit of fresh oil in the engine without the drain plug so the clean oil flushes out any leftovers. No i do not have OCD...
I do this too
I just fill in 6liters of gas in the oil pan and drive around for a few minutes and let the gasoline wash out all the old oil
@@lorenzhartl8466 really? I wonder if u can hurt the engine? Obviously not running to long
@@lorenzhartl8466 that’s a joke, right?
@@AlbertoGonzalez.. DUH
I'm so glad to have come across this video. The first time I saw that drain plug on my C7.5 A6 it confused the hell out of me. Ended up paying for that oil change. I can change my own oil again. You're a lifesaver. Thank you.
I just remembered a guy I use to work with years ago, who would leave his vehicle drain plug out, over the weekend (he had two vehicles) until the VERY LAST drop came out, and proclaimed this was the best way to change oil. Lol.....he would probably have a stroke if he saw you left 100ml behind
Same as me, leave the drain plug off for one day, next day back home from work pour some engine oil in before put the drain plug back on, after dinner secure the drain plug put in engine oil crank up the engine for few times before put in oil filter. 😁😁😁😁
DING PONG CHI are you serious? What do you have a Ferrari? Seems overkill no?
@@kryptoniteee no, first of all i am a mechanic, second it is a passion for my hobby job.and it doesn't matter what car was it i to have respect it and give him the best i could.
@@kryptoniteee indeed overkill
DING PONG CHI hey ding dong ping Chong. I’m glad it makes you happy. You should be happy, but put more effort into helping others. It’s not good to be selfish. I’ve seen too many people being selfish, it doesn’t end well, they die sad and lonely. It doesn’t matter that people are liking and agreeing with my comment, what matters is that you are happy and selfless.
Not sure where the O-Ring needs to go on the cap... can you please be more specific?
right.... there... :)
You should make a separate video, just to explain this important topic. I feel like it was just glossed over in this one - barely even mentioned.
There is an obvious channel the seal sits in. The filter even has an illustration inside the box telling you where it goes.
instructions unclear, dick stuck in a vice.
@@LynxStarAuto Insert meme... of a missed joke.
Great video wild unsaved man. I'll use the extractor. Many thanks
If i may add. I have a Subaru Legacy. Oil filter is the top. And i use this oil extractor from HF. Easiest oil change i have ever done. And no. I really dont care that im only getting 95% of the oil or what ever it is. Its simple. Cheap. And most importantly it saves me alot of time.
There's a lot more than 100ml left in the car still anyway, so it's fine. 100ml is 1.6% of the total oil fill. Negligible amount. Sheesh, how do you ocd types change your transmission fluid? ;p
😂
Drain and fill three or four times knowing I will never be able to truly replace the ATF without popping cooler lines and using a set of two buckets. (Or an exchange machine)
Once
The really OCD people just get a new car.
@@mediocreman2 You're onto something there! The mentality that it will never be the same is a powerful one. (I let my near mint G35 sit under a cover 2 years after striking a deer because it would never be the same without spending stupid money. Totalled, but title clean. I missed the car, the color, and the sound, so I finally put it back together this October. Definitely not the same even with factory Nissan parts and color. Maybe 87% the same max.
I pull the plug, When it stops dripping, I add a lil fresh oil and when I see clean oil from the drain, I put the plug back in.
That's because you're not stupid, draining oil gets the fodder and metal shavings out.
This is common practice in rotating machinery, which does not have a filter. I have never done this on a car, the filter will usually be sized to filter all the oil several times an hour
@@Ez-sk8ig I've Been a mechanic all my life, Build machinery, maintain it. Fire Department Mechanic (retired) I sell my car when they hit 300,000. I'll keep doing it my way..
@@Evil-Jesus sorry, my comment was more directed at the reply mentioning shavings etc... your process is the same as is used in heavy industry and the results don't lie, however we also use predictive maintenance and have vibration engineers and chemistry analysis and plasma gas spectroscopy for determining wear particles, but having visible shavings in a gearbox means hard parts replacement. My car has plastic oil pans, with magnets for catching any metal particles, but there's nothing wrong with a thorough flush of old oil.
Me, TOO! Good practice 👍
Thanks for sharing! Good video.
Thanks for posting this video! I have an IS350 that needs an oil change every month and no space to get it up in the air to save 80 dollars to do it myself. This thing will fix that. I don't mind leaving some in the pan. This video will save me a lot of hassle!
I use an extractor whenever possible. Getting worked up over 1/2 cup of oil is silly. Even when draining from the oil pan, there is still oil all over the inside of the engine, in the turbocharger and its feed/return lines etc.
@NickoLps If you are that anal about maintenance you are likely changing fluid much earlier than the factory recommended interval anyways. You are splitting hairs here. I've got a 634k mile 2012 Jetta sport wagon at the shop that has been maintained in this manner since new and still runs perfectly. . I'll agree to disagree.
@@mineaim7066 Kinda hard to argue with your results. I have a 2015 Jetta TDI 6spd manual and hope to get at least 300k on it.
Synthetic oil suspends deposits, not real sludge unlike mineral oil.
That got a lot more than I expected. I might start using the vacuum extractor I have for the lawnmower and snowblower on the cars. At a minimum, I could do a painless winter oil change this way.
Great video. Thanks man!
My extractor arrived 2 days ago 😊 I have lawn equipment, etc., and 3 vehicles to change. Definitely be using the extractor.
Can you recommend a reasonable priced floor lift for doing oil changes and tire rotations.
Keep up the great videos…
The fact that I have to buy the extractor, store it and take space in my garage, clean it after each use and leave 100ml of dirty oil in the engine makes it not worth it. Great video!
On these, not so much. But some vehicles like Land Rovers, and Jags? I'm pulling out the extractor. F those shield covers, and those damn drain plugs which seem to always leak unless you replace the entire plug.
It's worth if for ppl who change the oil regularly if they can easily access the oil filter without having to go under the car
Unless you're doing a flush, you're going to have dirty fluid lingering. And 100ml out of 5l or so is so minute it won't do a thing. Same exact idea with transmissions and those tend to have more old fluid in the torque converter... yet can keep going if you take care of it.
You don't need to clean the extractor and it probably takes less space than your drain pan.
Did exact same experiment when I bought my extractor. Had way less than half cup. 100% confident on extracting plus the suction is audible - it just takes longer!
I prefer the oil extractor method for its convenience and do more frequent oil changes. On the car (Audi A6 3L) I tested there was only ~60ml of residual oil left anyway. Every year I also do one complete sump plug drain to check for any bits of metal or sludge.
I say its fine if you commit to do your oil change regulary. Keeping maintenance 100% of your vehicle will make that car last forever. Still is not bad to take the left amount off as well. I had a ford taurus 2001 with over 230,000 miles on and never had issues with it. No leaks or problems with the engine ever. I recently sold it and the person who bought it loved it
Ice cold air, heater like a dragons breath lol. Now i have a kia soul 2011 and i love it! Easy to maintain, small yes but it is a fun daily driver. Only problem is that to change the oil you need a low pan to catch the oil cause this car is very low to ground so thats why i purchase one of this oil extractor to make things a little easier! Awesome video by the way
Nice video. I just bought an extractor. To me it's a no brainer: No wear on the drain plug, no possibility of stripping said plug and pan, no removal of splash shields, no jacking/ramping of car necessary, IE: much safer, not to mention no oil drain pan so much less chance of spilling the used oil. The small amount of oil that' s left will be changed out at the next service. I just did a tranny service on mine and was amazed at how easy it was compared to dropping the pan. Which can be really messing and lead to leaks. Just change the transmission filter every second or third time. The condition of the fluid is most important. If the filter is clogged, you left the fluid in too long and the tranny is on it's way out.
Same thoughts here. No jacking up the vehicle, and no requirement to remove the drain plug ever again. This compares with replacing the entire oil pan because of those oil change mechanics using pneumatic tools to loosen/ tighten the oil drain plug. Much cleaner method. I can live with 1/2 cup of residual oil as compared to the previous methods, outdoor in 32degree freezing weather conditions at the 10K mile interval.
Great video, when I buy my next car that will likely have the oil filter on top of the engine I will definitely buy an extractor and do most oil changes this way. But when it comes time to jack up the car and rotate tires/inspect things/brakes etc. I will give the car a full drain from the plug. IMO that is probably the best way to do it. For just oil changes, extractor. \When doing other services that require you to be under the car, drain plug.
Very interesting video thanks.
I didn't even know about an extractor, now that I know about it. Looks like it would be way easier and cleaner. I'm not worried about that little bit of oil I think this is the way I'll do oil changes once I get an extractor.
Great video! However i never trust an extractor to extract the oil from my engines. Gravity and negative pressure did the best suction downsouth.
Totally agree on the 5k oil interval. Nicely done sir! Also I don’t use the extractor simply because it takes much too long.
It took 5 mins to remove 6qts from my gti
Did an oil change on my w213 e-class today, and looking at the sump, the oil dipstick tube went straight down into it, it was definitely designed to be pumped out, the dealer probably never drained via the sump as the bolt had no scratches from Tools etc. (car is 3 years old)
Great video. Thanks 🙏.
I have an air operated extractor and we got literally few drops out of the plug after extracting on a 2016 GTI. I’m very comfortable using an extractor.
Thanks for doing this video! I bought one from Amazon and tried the same test you did, but on my 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. When I checked to see how much oil was left, it was only a few leftover drops! I love it!! Thanks again!
Hi there that's great to hear which brand did you buy from Amazon thanks
The oil extractor seems the way to go... My local dealer wants £105 to do an oil change. My oil extractor cost £27.., and to replace the oil and filter was £55.., so a winner from day one. I would also add that I will be far more likely to do my own oil change now, as it is so straightforward.. That has to be a good thing for the life of the engine.. 👍
Absolutely use extractor. My used Jetta V Tsi came with a double oversized oil plug. Leaving it in is best option if it’s not leaking
I'm too cheap to buy an extractor, and drain plug method means I can use the time to clean out filter housing, change air filter, check other fluids, etc. while it's draining. Great video as always! Edit - good call on the slightly overfilled to start with - after the extraction was complete that was as near as damn it 6 litres you pulled, especially with the extra 100ml through the drain. Kudos.
Exactly, use the time that its talking to pump out the oil th R&R your filter and check fluids.
Thank you for creating this video, and giving us your experience and information. It is appreciated. 👍
When I initially heard about using an extractor to change oil instead of drain plug, I too was suspicious about how well an extractor will remove the used oil. After seeing more information, and applying what I already know about engine oil systems, I concluded that an extractor is a perfectly acceptable method by which to do regular oil changes.
Yes, there is that question about the, "sludge", at the bottom of the pan, just like you show in your video.
However, the thing is, that is not sludge that is any different than the used oil that was just extracted. The oiling system does not pick up oil at some higher level from the bottom of the oil pan. Thus, all of the engine oil is being used and circulated over and over again. Even if the oil pick up is just slightly above the oil pan floor, during engine operation, still, all of the oil will be mixed and thus used. As oil pick up happens, the oil goes through the filter and circulates throughout the engines oil paths/channels. When that oil returns to the pan it mixes with ALL of the oil, yes, including that oil that some seem to think sits at the bottom of the oil pan and never moves. All the oil moves.
Also, there is a reason for an oil filter. Its job is to remove any larger particles that may be in the oil. Modern oils use additives that separate particles so that they do not clump, and stick in the oil paths and channels. The additives are not perfect, but are much better than oil from decades ago. Point being, if that little bit of oil, that comes out only from the drain plug removal, is sludgy, then all of your oil is sludgy. And hey, that's why we change engine oil at certain intervals of mileage, type of use, and time. The engine engineers test these things, and they know how well and how long certain types, formulations, of oil will last in that particular engine. Also, oil chemists continually work on additives and oil formulations to keep improving needed and beneficial oil properties, for the various types of engines that are out there in use.
Brasstown Bald . VERY cool . I live 5 miles from there.Thx for the video.
Sick
I always use the WOT clear flood mode to prime the system. If you’re going to do this, always check lear flood mode functionality before changing the oil.
So much plastic parts in this engine, as if it is 3D printed :)
It's very wise to make the first oil change as short as reasonably possible (engine break-in). But for later oil changes nothing wrong to change the oil around 6K - 8K mi and do it completely thru the drain plug. Just because the oil is dark in color, it doesn't mean it's bad because turbo engines tend to make the color change really quickly. Nevertheless it's a good habit to inspect the oil level every 3K mi & top-up if necessary.
Great video! I actually saw another video on fluid extractors and they actually got more oil out with the fluid extractor verses pulling the plug. I am a big believer in these extractors especially if you change your oil at 5,000 miles or less. When you get old like me it beats crawling under the car. Also if your oil filter is down under I recommend an oil filter relocation kit to move it so you can access it from the top. Thank you for posting!
Quality video!!!
I have never herd of an oil extractor till now. My mind is blown
Extractor all the way for me.....even on my '59 Cadillac. :-)
No overtightened sump plugs, no mess.
My extractor does it all. Coolant,brake fluid, oil,trans fluid...love it..
Power steering too
I think they all do, you are just not suppose to use it on fuel
@@HumbleMechanic yes they do. Depending on what hose accessories you get with it or buy.
Extremely useful tool especially if you work alone.which i do alot..
Cheers my friend
It sucks
@@HumbleMechanic I used mine for gasoline for 3 years before it quit.
What do you rinse the unit with between fluids?
I use a motorised extractor on all our family cars. The supplier recommends using it only every second oil change. I am happy with that. By the way, here in Europe car makers recommend oil change only every 12000 miles,( i live in Ireland)
So great to see this. I’ve always wondered which engines you can reach low enough for an extractor to work?
This is just one example and didn’t he say VW recommends the extractor?
Some VWs they explicitly say not to use an oil extractor, as a result VW fit a tiny dipstick hole.
There is probably another 1/2 litre up in the block/pump/turbo lines, if your worried about that last bit dump in a clean fresh litre and start the car for 5 seconds and drain it again to flush a bit more out but its not going to matter one bit, the filter does its job, 99% of the oil is new, the old oil like any modern oil would probably last another 5k-10k as is anyhow, a week later the new oil will look dirty once again.
When i used to rebuild the gen2 ea888 2.0tfsi engines (the predecessor), they took 4.6 litres on a service, but 5.2 litres after teardown and replacement of the pistons. So yeah 0.5 litre easily left behind everytime.
The less old oil i have the better. I always change it when oil is hot to get more out and jack the car high up and let it drain for about 30min.
@@boostedveedub9687 Does the extra 6ft of gravitational force increase the flow rate of the oil out of the car?
James Butler 6ft? I’m on jack stands so probably 6” lol i just do it to make it easier for all the oil to evacuate depending on oil pan design, plug placement etc.
Not really good to run the engine for 5 seconds on a total of 1.5L of oil though
I have two of the best methods to do either method.
I have a Stahlbus valve for quick and effortless and clean draining.
And I have an extractor to do it that way.
I have done both and I like the extractor lol
Just wanted to share my experience, I have Lidl electric oil extraction pump, it's about 10€/$, and I did a little test on my Ford Mondeo Mk4 with 2.5T engine, my plan was to extract as much as possible with a pump and to see how much will go out from the oil drain, everything as you did here.
Oil filter on this engine is top mounted cartridge also, so it's easy and clean to remove it, and all the oil goes down to the oil pan when oil cap is unscrewed, because it's pressurised and full otherwise.
I measured oil dipstick length and put thin sucking tube which goes even further than a dipstick, I felt little resistance when the tube curved on the bottom and there was definite stop when the tube touched bottom oil pan wall.
My advice is to put can for the old oil as low as possible, basically on the ground and not on the engine, I have inspection pit so I can put it even lower, gravity is a friend in this case. Also engine was warm of course, so as the oil naturally, about 1.5h after engine was on operating temperature and ignition was turned off, so the oil can drain to the bottom as much as possible but also to remain thin and easy for the pump to extract.
I let the pump to pull out to the point when on the other side of the tube was just drops of oil.
When I removed oil drain plug, prepared to catch some amount, and eager to find out how much will it be, I was surprised that there wasn't even one drop of oil.
For my car with this engine it works perfectly, you must find out for your car, can it pull out all or almost all, and does it make sense to extract oil using this method.
I think you could tolerate up to 0.3L of old oil remained in the pan ONLY if you have no other option to change the oil correctly.
In any case I will continue to change the oil from the pit, because i find it satisfying to do it myself.
Using the extractor it's whole life then someone uses the plastic drain plug and snap it breaks off since it's been in place for years lol
It's just plastic doesn't seem that difficult to get off if it breaks especially since it's not torqued down or anything
Plastic drain plug looks like an accident in waiting..
audimate ‘
Plastic gardens and becomes brittle with age and is best when changed periodically.
You’re over thinking it, please don’t get any new car lol. And btw an older car is going to have way worse problems than an easy pan swap. Pan swap takes 20 minutes no joke..I see people adding coilovers, paint, and horsepower to old cars but they never changed the balljoints, subframe bushings, or tie rods lmfao. That’s like going to the gym to do squats after knee surgery, it’s f**ckin stupid lol.
yea i would probably continue doing my oil changes the traditional way. most car require you to lift the car to remove the oil filter anyway so i ready dont see the point. but if you have an European car that has the filter at top then i would say maybe is a benefit. idk tho its up to you.
I did the same thing with my Harley and usually I get most of the oil but this last time, I had quite a bit of old oil that didn't get suctioned out. Next time, I will use the drain hole for a complete oil change. It seems easy, but unless you drop the drain plug, you are not getting all the contaminants out.
I just bought an extractor to change the oil in my generator, slow blower and lawnmower. I sucked the oil out of all three in about 15 minutes total! Considering that I would likely have NEVER gone to the trouble of draining them traditionally, whatever oil might be left at the very bottom is so much better than leaving the old oil in there, or not changing it at all because it's a hassle.
I always measure the dipstick against the tube, pinch with a finger and then I know I need to be at least that deep down the tube.
Good hint
Be careful with that method...I recently watched a video about a ford tsb where the remedy is to install a shorter dipstick, and add more oil, to hide an oil consumption issue.
I got every last drop out of my E46. Our Mercedes GLE, not so much. Plus I had to extend the tube on the Amazon extractor.
And yes, I love my German cars with the oil filters up top.
BTW, I almost can't stand watching these because I am so jealous of the yellow Golf R...
:) Sorry not sorry? LOL
Gary Crispin
Agree about the Yellow R Gary. I have a Lapiz Blue R that looks great in the sun but pretty ordinary on an overcast day. Color choice in Australia is limited to red, black, white, blue silver and grey. Would have snapped up the yellow if it was available.
I just did my first oil change with a extractor. Normally done it trough the plug. Planning on doing extractions every 5ks and then at 15k drive to vw for service (I have a good deal with them for service). Where they can do an old school drain and change drain plug :)
I've been using this method for most of my cars that has a dip stick for 15years with no issues.
Recently I did my first topside oil change using an electric pump and I found it necessary to move the extraction tube up/down in search of the last of the oil. There are too many variables to believe that every drop drains out the bottom no matter how long you leave the plug out.
Yee. Mine takes 2.9 I managed to get 2l extracted after 10/15 min. It starts fine but then I spend most of the time trying to get more to be sucked out
32mm socket is the best thing I ever bought instead of using the crescent wrench lol I could unscrew my oil filter by hand from factory
32 mm socket is most common for most wheel bearing spindle nuts as well. So if you have replaced a wheel bearning on a car you already have the 32mm socket! :)
Great video, 5,7 L suppose to exactly where on that stick? Thank you sooo much for your answer
Great and interesting ideea, i switch my tfsi on 5w50 valvoline seems ok, youre the best vag video maker , best mech bro 😅💪
There is always oil trapped in the system. What you collected after the pumping extraction is mainly the dripping oil collected in the pan afterwards. I wouldn't worry much about it! I would probably alternate between these two.
Ye a mix of both is probably the happy medium, or in my case whenever I can get access to a welder to tac bolts onto the rear bolts of the belly pan because the ones on it are completely fucked
@@user-lv8dn8gw9z I'm in the same position. My rear bolt is completely stripped and rusted.
I purchased the extractor today and will pull the drain plug every 10k. I also only allow 5k per oil change
When i first got that same extractor, i did this same test. Now i pumped that extractor on and off for at least 30 min, and when i pulled the plug, i got no oil to drain out. This was a MB w203, so YMMV.
I pull the plug out and while the oil is draining I rotate the wheels, the extractor is neat, but you still need to go under the car anyways. Thanks for sharing Charles.
Thanks for that video and the information of the oil remaining. Interesting to see the M8 R still comes with the plastic oil pan. I assume it's the same as on the Mk7 and the quantity of the remaining oil is also the same. Since I do own a Mk7 and have access to a lift and I don't even own an extractor I obviously prefer draining the oil via the drain plug. I also have a magnetic plug and I want to inspect it on each oil change. That said, while I prefer to not leave 100 ml of more oil in my engine there's still a huge quantity remaining in there. The factory fill is 6.6 liters, while you change just 5.7 liters. So 900 ml is remaining in the engine anyway, or 1 full liter if you decide to use an extractor. Lastly this engine has a really generous oil sump and I think that's a good thing.
On some applications i would definitely use the extractor however on my car it sits a little high off the ground so i don't even need to jack it up to change the oil and remove the filter. But that extractor would definitely save you time and work if your car is low to the ground!
The pump is fine with cars with top access filters . For cars where you have to get underneath to remove the filters you might as well remove the drain plug while your down there.
I own a 2005 Mercedes-Benz C230. Oil drain plug is covered by lots of plastic covers. What a pain. This is a big game changer. Plus I can use it on my Seadoos. Win win.
Do I mind the 100ml of oil, in my car that I do maintenance so I know everything is well maintain, yes! I also think having a 100´ish extractor that I need to clean is not worth the fuss at all!! 25$ ramps, inspect under the car, drain ALL the oil and be happy! Also the plug is so easy to get off!
The plugs are fragile and are know to leak if u aren't careful but fair point
Yes I replace it every time for 5$
In my opinion I can understand using the extractor for in between service oil changes, especially with cars having 10k+ service increments. My saab has a 15k oil life that I decide to change every 5k instead. I think for the actual service bulletin you should still get under the car for just to check everything out and make sure your car isn't developing any problems.
Me too ruclips.net/video/bnHmVTX0tkE/видео.html
@@sgtLatte Another Saab fan here ruclips.net/video/bnHmVTX0tkE/видео.html
My favorite part of the video was how quickly he placed the old O-ring "over there". lol
brilliant video
Thanks.
With higher capacity,longer interval filters available its pretty common for sales reps to change oil and maybe skip the filter. Actually some filters like droflow air filter,HVAC, and long interval oil filters thrive by having a little bit of debris trapped,helps filtering. Honda MM sometimes will say to change oil and filter and sometimes just oil. Highway miles are easy and getting oil up to 100°C/212 F is the best thing to keep contamination down. I would still do every 2nd or 3rd oil change as a drain and fill. If I ran a track event and had high fuel dilution or suspected i did, this would be great to draw a sample out or replace some oil and top off to keep the viscosity from falling out of specification.
The 100 ml might be insignificant amount compared to the total amount of oil, but that last 100 ml may contain the heaviest and most damaging contamination since it sits right at the bottom of the oil pan. Would be worth analysing the oil extracted through the top versus that last 100 ml through the drain plug.
agree, pulling the plug, you get all the sediment on the bottom of the oil pan, sucking from top gets everything but
I use this for all my oil changes. It's best to hold the dipstick next to the tube before inserting, and mark it with your fingers. Then you know how far down to insert.
That’s a great idea. Make an inch or so above the stick so you get all the way down
the dipstick doesnt go all the way down tho
Yep that’s why I made the comment I made. :)
@@HumbleMechanic I replied without reading your comment lol
Assuming you took out 5.5 L with the extractor (thats what it looked like to me), then 100 mL left behind is a mere 1.8% of your total oil. Pretty insignificant. Depending on your engine you might take out more or less. Extractors tend to work well in many German cars though. Great clean work and attention to detail, loved the video + production!
Thank you!
Phenomenal job
All oil out of the sump pan for me Charles. Good piece of kit to have mind you.
• You can get a pretty good estimate of how much tubing to insert into the dipstick tube, by referencing the dipstick itself; the tubing has to at least go past the lower oil mark.
• Also, some cars' dipstick tube is actually a pretty good substitute for the tubing. In such cases, using an appropriate rubber bung to connect the dipstick tube to the vacuum oil extractor gets as much oil out as fiddling with the tubing.
• 100mL out of 6,000mL is 1.6%. The dilution factor with new oil will make the leftover oil inconsequential.
There's 1 quart between max and min , so you need to go 5 times that length lower (approx 5 inches)
I love the extractor.
I just wish they wouldn't have put the filter underneath on the MK6 R, my previous GTi had it on top & was so easy & never dropped any oil in the removal process. I always wondered how well the extractors worked. I'll stick with my Race Ramps, I have to be under for the filter anyway & it's nice to check on things under there. I like the drain plug on your series, as well, nice to not have to worry about torque setting. Thanks as usual.
So next time use the old O ring that has been cut after removal, loop it thru the new O ring pinch the tails of the old O ring now feed the new O ring on the the cap, pull the old O ring (while it is looped thru the new one) rotate around the cap to help feed the new into its groove, helps to seat the new O ring, no cuts, nicks and NO twists. good for all rings.
Nice, I'll have to note that down for my next change.
I used a oil extractor in my MK IV Golf TDI for years. So much easier.
It does seem a lot easier to just use the extractor instead of having to remove that plastic under tray and drain it out. But this guy has a lift in his garage so why not lol
Why is the quote for an oil change at a local shop so expensive....
Also keeps from stripping the threads in the aluminum oil pan with the steel drain plug!
@@timlamein9637 Because They are billing you for a total hour of work. Most shops are over $100 an hour for labor cost. Then you add in the price of oil, filter and plug. Audi chargers $169 for just an oil change.
@@timlamein9637 To pay dieselgate 😉
Does height of the hatched mark on a VAG represent a particular volume? I've always found it is a about 1 litre from top to bottom, but only seen about 3 different VAG engines.
My Land Rover discovery D4 has a dedicated tube in the engine that goes right down to the bottom of the sump LOWER than the drain plug so you can remove more oil using the suction method , but my main dealer still uses the sump plug removal method.When my free service plan runs out and I start to do my own oil changes I will be using the suction method.
Good video. This was the only video I've seen that measured if all oil was extracted and then double-checked via the drain plug. As far as getting that last dirty oil out, you could always add 1/2 qt of any fresh oil you have and then extracting again. At the very least, this will dilute the dirty oil or sediment at the bottom of the pan and leave less dirty oil behind (for the anal retentive).
I agree with this
I remember seeing Paul @ ShopDAP do a similar video (I think in a GTI), with similar results.
Great idea
I can't say I'd be comfortable leaving that behind. I generally leave the pan under the car for an hour or more, go do something else. Does it matter? Probably not.
I will say, however, that I seriously distrust extractors of any form. I once had a Jiffy-Lube "service" a transmission with an extractor. In less than three months the trans bit the dust. Coincidence? Maybe. And maybe I'm just a dinosaur who thinks the old ways are just fine. But I'll take a drain plug any day of the week.
When it comes to things like this I am cool with what makes you comfortable. I am doing double maintenance on the car which is silly to some people.. I don't care one bit. I am going to do it anyway. Very cheap insurance.
I think the extractor thing is more a Jiffy change issue, than the extractor issue. But I can see why you feel how you do
I did want to mention that on automatic transmissions, if the fluid is not changed regularly, it can start to carry a lot of clutch material. If you then service it and add new fluid, the clutches can begin to slip. This is because the old transmission fluid was effectively acting as a "glue" and was keeping the clutches working. This could have been the cause of failure on your transmission, but it could have as easily been from the jiffy lube location.
Definitely check out ChrisFix's video on automatic transmission fluid for a better explanation than I can give!
Etmanning Old wives tale friend. I've done fluid changes on plenty of units with over 150k. Never had an issue.
Lynx Star Automotive I’ve always figured people wait until their trans does something funky to do the flush, and that’s why they say it causes it. It was probably on its way out, and they were hoping to save it haha
HumbleMechanic Exactly. Oils, filters and other fluids are dirt cheap. They cost practically nothing. Cheapest and best insurance for your car. Would be foolish to ”save” on those.
2006 Tundra has the oil filter above the steel skid plate so unless you want a mess skid has to drop so drain bolt/new db gasket every 5-7K.
Did a LiquiMoly Engine Flush/Drain/Fill about 1K ago so am servicing with new oil/filter tomorrow, as will be on ramps for ATF WS double Drain/Fill, drove shaft zirc greasing, new transfer/dif gear fluids and new 02 Sensors before installing my Skid Row Cat Con Guards and do NOT want to remove again until next Trans Refresh in 20-25K.
At least!
Extraction seems great for these German Top Filter Autos though.
Nice video HM.
And yes, I let it Drain at least 10 minutes but don't rebuild my block.
;-)
Great tv personality! I really hate unnecessary goofy jokes on info channels. Keep up the good work
Thanks! I think there is a balance. Lol