I hope this gives you a 'simple' way to look at pattern fitting! 😀Tell me, what are your fitting issues? what do you struggle with? Join my sewing club!_ www.vintagesewingschool.com/ If you want a fun way to really learn how to use patterns and masters sewing garments, I can show you how!
Hi Evelyn, with me it's my shoulders as I'm a typical British pear shape, narrow shoulders, but wider hips. And I struggle every time with things like dresses or tops. 💕😊
Hi, I have been sewing dresses for my daughter all her life. Now that she is a teenager, with a very athletic body (small bust, stronger waist, and preteen hips). So she can be a 12 up top, 14 in the middle, and 10 on the bottom.
I think a common problem is that we get excited to finish a project and don't take the time to step back and give yourself a little time to evaluate before moving on. :) When I pace myself and give myself permission to take that time I find the answers to many problems become much clearer than when feeling that desire to just finish it and wearing it already! :) I have saved many a project from the "dead files" where well meant projects are left to wither, waiting on inspiration that never comes by just giving myself a rest for a day doing other things and reevaluating the situation later. This saves me so much needless seam ripping and adjusting and lets me see the garment/project as a whole, rather than focusing on that trouble spot. I remember having trouble with a sleeve, and because I have very large upper arms proportionately, I assumed the problem was with the arm scythe, but when I came back to it and looked at the whole dress, I could see I needed more room in the back, rather than messing with arm scythes and shoulder caps. I was so focused on what I assumed was the problem area, I almost made some fairly serious and unchangeable alterations that wouldn't have helped anyway. And I thought children taught me patience! LOL. Nope.. sewing seems to be the great teacher in that for me. :) Also, Good morning! (I am in the States..so you are just heading to bed I think? Math and I are not dear friends LOL)
You are correct!! 12.20am for meeee!! 😴😴😴 And I think your so right about slowing down. I like the way said it about just rushing to finish so you can wear it! I also made huge improvements in my skills when I stopped thinning about it as something I can wear tomorrow.... and more about the process of what I'm doing and doing it right! ❤
Always choose a pattern that fits your upper body (bust, armhole, shoulder) because there's too many adjustments needed. Waist and hips are much easier to grade up or down.
Shahida Begum And if you have a large bust, choose the size that fits the upper bust, then adjust the full bust. Otherwise you end up with the shoulder seams falling off your shoulders.
Except for making a jumpsuit. My butt is huge and when making pants I always have to make the butt curve longer or start at two sizes or so larger and fit my garmet tighter around the waist... the same often goes for convetionally bought pants. And it is reslly important since the butt curve doesn't stretch at all. Not even with things like leggins. If it doesn't fit it always wants to go into my butt... The other thing I have to do with jumpsuits is lenghtening the torso... I could never wear them before making th3m myself because they were either too short in the torso or too huge on me. The same goes for swimsuits. I always had to opt out for a bikini...
This is such a nice video. My mom made lots of clothes for us, and she would regularly adjust or combine two sizes of the original pattern. Her pieces were so neat that I was sometimes asked where I bought the clothes I was wearing ;)
This video made a great difference in the way I approach a project, for instance my waist and hip are of size 12 and my bust line nearly size 14. After your video I went for a size 14 and narrowed in the waist and curve of the hips. This made so much more sense. Please do more detailed videos on example of possible adjustments like this.
This video had me yelling at the screen, “you’re a genius!” Was really frustrated trying to learn how to adjust the top of a dress pattern and you helped me realize… I can just use the size down for the top. Felt like a ding dong, but THANK YOU! Haha. Learning how to be more patient and thoughtful with projects through sewing, that’s for sure. 💕
I found my greatest learning experience in sewing was being stuck in Cambodia having to hand sew my clothes with no pattern ! Surprisingly, not only was I able to sew nice fitting clothes for my body but I lost my fear about sewing without guidance. If I made a mistake and I made many , I would just unpick and recut if necessary and try a new tactic. Sewing by hand and cutting without a pattern trains your eye and hand to really look at the overall picture 😀
This was so well explained. I went from not knowing a thing about fit vs size to now feeling like I can at least speak somewhat knowledgeably about it. (My sewing skills are still too new for me to say I can sew it! :D ) You have a great way of anticipating questions too. There were a couple of times while watching this I was like "I should remember to ask XYZ in the comments..." and sure enough the next thing you said was the answer to that question. Another one for my learning to sew playlist!
I'm tall and thin, which means pattern proportions are never right. Most tutorials only show how to add length to sleeves and hem, but tall people aren't just short people with two meter legs!! The extra length should be distributed evenly to keep bust, waist and hip lines in their correct places. That's very hard to do, with all the darts and so.
I am 5'1 with tiny waist bigger hips..I have no trunk length..abs, to hips are crushed together..SMH anytime i want shorts, pants, sweats.. I will always need to self create
I do that combining sizes thing! And highly recommend it! I know from experience that if I'm working from a standard pattern I'll probably need to shorten the torso in total about 4 cm, raise the back neckline, and use parts from three different sizes in the pattern, so I usually make a mockup with those things in mind and don't need to change too much from there. Took me a little while to get good at smooth transitions between sizes for shoulder, upper body and lower body, but it is much less work than fitting from a mockup in a size that can only be correct in one place out of three, and which would always be too long. It also helps that I quite early came across a book that showed the "change lines" (adjustment lines? It was not a book in English) of standard pattern pieces, i.e. where in a pattern piece/block one should add or subtract length or width and how to make that consistent throughout the rest of the garment. My nemesis though is adjusting/fitting crotch seams. I'm starting to get more of a hang of it, but it still sometimes ends up sitting a bit weirdly without me quite understanding why and having a hard time fixing it. Mostly I limit the issue by making patterns from garments I already know fit me well, but it is also hard to pattern the crotch seam correctly when doing that. I also prefer a looser fit in trousers, so fitting to a close fit doesn't work. Hm. Sounds like I need find me some good and detailed guides specifically for adjusting trouser patterns.
@@lynnniblock8355 It's usually not super hard to combine sizes. Usually you just have to figure out which sizes you need and then when you're tracing the pattern, transition as smoothly as you can from tracing one size to tracing the next size. You'll have to take additional measurements above and below the standard measurements so you can see where the shift happens.
Easy is a very relative term, I think. I would suppose it to be doable for anyone who either has some understanding already of how patterns are constructed or patience (stubbornness), curiosity and a mind to try it out. As well as acceptance for things to maybe start out so-so and need a bit of mockup adjustment untiI one gets the hang of it. I'd say it's a nice challenge with rewarding results, and a very handy skill to have. What I do is compare my measurements to the measurements given for the different sizes, and then trace the pattern for the corresponding size around the area of the measuring point. So I start with the center front/back line, marking where neck, waist and bustline would be on the size that would closest fit my back length. Then I add the shoulder point and line from a size that fits that measurement, the bust area and lower armhole from another size, waist from a third and hips sometimes from a fourth, making sure to keep the same center front/back line and to keep the bust, waist and hip lines level and corresponding over different pattern pieces. Though sometimes I just trace the areas/points where they are on the pattern and shorten the back and front lenght to my measurement afterwards by folding away some length between bust and waist and some almost at the shoulder. With some patterns it is easier to make sure that the length adjustment is equal for all pieces that way. I join these areas/points together into whole pattern pieces by trying to trace smooth transitions between them in a way that keeps the new measurements while imitating the shape of the original pieces. It usually helps to have a good idea of how the pattern pieces are supposed to fit together to make a shape, so that one knows what type of line is needed, if it should be straight, curved, angled and so on. I then compare and measure the different pieces and see if they still fit together, and adjust a bit if needed. Making sure the sleeve of the size I need fits the new armhole and such. Unless I am VERY confident in my new pattern or have worked with a very similar garment before, I then make at least a partial mockup to see what might need more adjustment/correction. So it doesn't really take away the need to make a mockup/muslin, but there's usually less adjustment needed. Usually for me I just need to adjust the bust point or curve slightly, potentially take in the armhole a bit (especially for sleeveless things) and make sure the shoulder sits nicely. I haven't really done this with pants though, mostly tops, jackets and dresses. With pants I usually trace a pair I have that I really like the fit of, and then make a mockup from there.
Get an adjustable one! It makes all the difference. They have regular and petite ones that I know of-my husband gave me a petite one years ago (I’m 5’1”), and it’s saved me so much money and tears. My bust is just enough bigger than patterns or dress forms, so I dialed it to fit my rib cage/high bust and put an old bra on it and filled the cups in with batting, then put a stretchy cover over it. As I gain/lose that pesky 10-15 pounds, I just spin the dials to adjust her size.
When I choose a pattern, first I keep in mind the purpose of the garment, the principles that will make the garment flattering on my particular figure, and the silhouette that attracted me to the specific pattern. Then, trace the tissue pattern onto tracing paper and use the copy to get a rough fitting on my dress form. After adjusting the pattern, I make another copy, check it, cut it out in muslin, add markings with contrast basting thread, staystitch and clip curves, baste the front and back together, and fit on the form. Then, back to adjusting the pattern, etc. Only when I think it is perfect do I cut it out in the final fabric.
Hi Evelyn, you can't believe how happy I am for finding you in the online world. Years ago I took a sewing course in my hometown in Italy, it was both sewing and pattern designing course. The teacher had a great experience at working as a seamstress, but very little at teaching and listening. Long story short, I decided to give up sewing altogether. Now that I found you and other youtubers, I'm slowly getting back at it and your videos are so so useful for this! I can finally use ready made patters without hearing the voice of my teacher at the back of my head. I can start to work on them and make them useful for me and for what I want to achieve, which is just home sewing, not finding a profession. I'll avidly watch all other videos of yours. Thank you so so much again!!
I can't sew ( haven't touched a sewing machine since....junior high school home economics class!) but for some reason I really enjoy your videos :D Also sewing etc aside, I really love your classic look of the red lips and the red manicure (even though I don't wear any makeup or nail polish myself.) Love your vintage looking jewelry too! :D
I so wish I could carry off a lovely shade of lipstick like that. It looks fairly garish with my coloring though. I get my vicarious lipstick fixes through others. :)
I'm not a new sewer but I still really struggle with this. I always end up ripping and adjusting and not always with satisfactory results! This video was really helpful! I've been making nightgowns lately, partly because I needed some new ones but also they're very forgiving on size. But I want to make some more dresses. In our warm Texas climate, dresses are so much more comfortable and less judgmenta 😜 on a pudgy tummy than shorts.
This truly could not have come at a better time! I have been working on a mockup of a jacket pattern these past few days and I am really having trouble with the fit! I had to put down the project for a few days because I felt so discouraged. I tried my best to look online to see what might be the problem and try to fix the problems with the fit. Somewhere successful others not so much, ahaha, but I have been learning so much! I was actually talking to my boyfriend last night, over dinner, about how I was really intreated in joining your Vintage Sewing School to learn more. I was even hoping to hopefully learn more about proper fitting techniques and then this video pops up! You absolutely have a new student joining your class!
😀😀 Eric perfect timing then!!! I'm so excited! Fitting is hard, as you really have to learn to apply the skills in your own way, and learn how to adjust patterns at the same time! It is the focus for the next 6 months at VSS so ww will be covering lots! I look forward to having you in class! 😀
I have a large bust, shapely waist and narrower hips. I recently made a princess line dress, and on your previous videos, made a size to accommodate my bust, then took in the side seams under the arms and the princess seams over the bust. I made the neckline a bit higher and I should have taken in the centre front seam as well, before I sewed on the neckline facing. It’s not too bad, so I’ve noted that adjustment along with the ones I did make, for next time. When I next put it on I may use a smaller size for the bottom half next time. Very clear, thank you! 👍❤️
I think for such a fitted, panel dress, working with the muslin is a must. Of course, this is a time consuming process we would rather skip! ...but then we we will not be pleased with the results! I’m trying to move beyond the tunic pattern though I love how those look with a belt and how, if you are going overboard with eating festivities, you just move the belt over a notch! Or the elastic waistband, the draw string ... all wearer-forgiving. Thank you so much for guiding us through a proper fitting!
Thanks for watching! I agree, a mockup seems like such a waste of time when you start..... then you realize how much time yoy waste because you didn't do one and test enough first! 🤣
Muslins are great for trying out the pattern, and making sure the garment will look good on you. One of these days I’m going to watch for a good sale and buy a whole bolt of it just to have on hand.
I’m the same as you with sizing bust is standard gives me a size 16, but when I look at the waist and hips it gives me a bigger size.. all and all I need to go on a diet...love your video I have learned a lot... I will become a member of your vintage sewing school
a swayback adjustment would be lifechanging! every single thing I own has a great bit smile of fabric on the back. I also have a really short waist which doesn't help my cause one bit. The main reason I've decided to learn to sew is a love for vintage silhouettes and i'm so sick of everything from the store fitting like a grain sack because shops seem to cater only to people over 5ft5 and built like an ironing board. I'm 5ft2½ short waisted, big boobed, swaybacked and low hipped. According to the high street I am a gargoyle rather than a human.
I was scanned by Unique patterns in 2004, and ordered custom patterns from them. They are out of business, and I only had 2. A pair of zipper ,button top straight leg slacks , and a flared ,princess seamed dress. I loved it! So I got spoiled. I gain, lose weight, seasons change, fashions change, and I get so frustrated maintaining a functioning ,matching wardrobe I can afford. I will leave allowances in my seams for letting in and out. I honestly think we need to start a clothing line with this intent. Adjustable clothing.
I love how straightforward your explanations are, often makes things I’ve struggled to comprehend so obvious as to be laughable 😆 I have to admit, if you ever did a video on knowing when bust adjustments are the needed alteration (enlargement is the obvious one, but reduction really needs to be talked about too..!) and so forth I’d be very grateful. But always looking forward to whatever you put put :)
In Britain and Australia teachers speak in a simple and straightforward way making it simple to understand. I'm totally confused by tutors from the US. I give them a miss. The language and system they use is so convoluted. They specialise in making something simple, twisting it about in language where only space engineers can understand. Well you get my drift. Why confuse ppl with too much talk and making it look so terribly difficult when it ISN'T? Just use few but simple words and demonstrate. They just like to show off and brag with convoluted language and ppl leave confused. There IS A BETTER WAY FOLKS! Keep it SIMPLE!
This was so helpful and wonderful information. I am going to be Refashioning/Altering a dress I bought on clearance. I'm going to be wearing it to a wedding in September. I am sure I will be rewatching all of your refashioning and fitting videos to help me recreate this dress. Wish me luck.
After the twins were born, I lost the pregnancy weight and still couldn't fit into my old clothes because my shape had changed from an hourglass to an outsized pear (i.e. a pear shape with larger hips than is proportional for a traditional pear shape). And the fact that I have a disproportionately smaller waist (which my mother also had) made fitting more difficult. I switched to tailored clothing only but cannot see my tailor now due to the pandemic. I have a chic style and the only readymades that fit are loungewear--woe is me. Sewing my own clothes is a must right now, and your channel really helps.
When I was younger I didnt mind making slacks at all. But after menopause I lost my waist & my tummy grew. I have not been happy since no matter how I alter things. Ive settled on buying a size too big. Ive also lost 2 sizes in weight. I get the best results taking thing up from the waist & only taking in the seams at tummy level, front & back. But the thighs are usually still too big & sometimes I get folds hanging in the rear. Age & significant weight loss do not play well together.
Love your videos. I see it is much easier to make adjustments with a form. I would like to see an easy way to make adjustments without the form. I haven't found a form that is affordable in my size range.
I never fit on my manniquin, only on myself! I have another video on fitting garments on yourself here ruclips.net/video/MW6EbH-g8Ms/видео.html Is just a case of taking it on and off at least 124 times! 🤣
You can take pattern drafting lessons. Flat pattern drafting requires no dressmaking dummy. Those bought paper patterns give everyone a headache as it did to me all those years ago. It can be difficult to follow what others have drafted for you and their sewing instructions leave a lot to be desired if you are putting something more difficult together. When you draw up your own pattern, it is made from your body measurements from the beginning, thus cutting out the fitting which is a pain. Look into it if this is what you would prefer to do than bothering to do all sorts of adjustments. Let me know. Good luck.
I have a thick waist and abd with a small derrière. I always either have a baggy bottom or a tight waist! Learning to combine patterns would be amazing.
Hi Emily, how is your dressmaking going? Are you taking sewing classes? I was where you are now, 40 years ago. It always bring me joy to see young ppl interested in sewing, cooking & baking bcz when I look for a buddy to partner up for any of these hobbies, they walk away never interested. I feel these hobbies are truly dead these days. Quilting is all the rage these days, but why? They can just buy a nice duvet & that's it, but clothing is worn and we can make whatever we like to wear. You won't find it anywhere else. It's an original. The choice is up to ourselves; colour, fabric, style, length etc. Thank God I never need to buy paper patterns. Once I learnt how to put fabric pieces together and use a sewing machine like a pro and that was in my mid 20s after much practice, I did a pattern drafting course. I much recommend it. I found it too much of a headache adjusting sizes on patterns someone else had drawn up. Also I often found their sewing instructions as clear as mud. I was left stranded. When you draft your own, you know exactly what you've done and it's much easier. I was a baby beginner also. I never knew anyone who sewed. I didn't know how to attach a button, let alone take up a hem. I never thought I could do it, but once I understood how it all works, it was easy peasy. I have since missed the company of like-minded souls so I have to do these things on my own.
Battling my 32G bodice sloper at the moment after some weightloss - I seem to be dealing not only with fit but with balance, and the two keep mucking each other up. I might be able to do this on someone else, but on myself it's a real pain. Whingeing aside, I'm pretty close and the next one will be in checked fabric so's I can analyse the drape better.
Thanks Evelyn. My fitting issue is very slim in the shoulders, so I regularly have to take out width in the top of a pattern and try to grade back out. Otherwise, the shoulders are too wide and fall off me.
My fitting problem has changed over the last years. I have always been pear shaped, I am small boned , have weight more than I care to think about, but I have always even when at a average weight been two sizes smaller at the top, tiny waist, and wide hips. Flat tummy. But now I have a waist that is larger then ever and a tummy. I get lost on how to adjust a one piece garment that to do separates. I find it much easier to make a garment for someone else than for me. But I still love to sew and the touch of fabric etc. Yes I do sew for myself but sometimes it takes awhile to figure out where to begin. Thanks
I'm quite new at sewing and learn so much from your videos. I have so far been doing more simple patterns, but for me there are two things regarding fitting. 1. I have a long torso, and sometimes I want to legthen the pattern, especially for dresses or the waistline comes across my ribs, but that could be tricky to get right. 2. My arms are thicker and even though I have not made a garnment with fitted sleeves (that are not stretch) I wonder if I could get away by sewing with a smaller seam allowance, or if I have to change the whole sleeve.
For me most problematic is a upper part (torso area). Because all the curves that need fit in the front panel and I have relatively short torso. It's sometimes generates problems with to big back part or with darts that are not in correct position. When I make project and saw that thing, learn a lot even if project is not perfect, next time I know what problems was in it and I will learn how to fix it. Mockups are great for this. Also in next project you know your problematic area and you will check up if you have good enough fit for you. Just keep sawing and don't be to hard for yourself.
That was helpful, I'll have a look at the other clips tomorrow. In case you are still looking for fit-issues we have: my shoulders are wide and arms are fairly large. Usually they don't fit in the largest pattern size in available patterns, even if the rest is large enough. Any tips on upscaling sleeve patterns and fitting sleeves would be very much appreciated. And how to increase arm mobility too! Thanks!
I know your videos are aimed at women, specifically vintage fashion, but they have been super helpful for me to hear how you think and talk about your projects that I can transfer to my menswear projects. I'm learning to sew so that I can make clothes that fit me well (I'm a 6'3, 275 lb man). I always want to express myself better through the clothes I wear but the "fun" stuff usually is never in my size, or is just too short on my torso. I still have a long way to go to fully understand men's tailoring and construction, but your videos have been so helpful. Thank you Evelyn! Do you have any recommendations on the menswear side? I know its a whole other beast, but maybe having a video that tackles unisex styles (a basic t-shirt or button up or shorts) and how to get those fitting properly would be super helpful.
😀 I'm glad to hear you have been able to see how the same skills translate! I wouldn't say that I have any unisex tutorials here, but lots of skills and ways of thinking you can apply to any sewing project! I will keep it in mind though as I seem to have alot of gentlemen sewing friends here!
Hi Apwelch. I suggest you get a men's pattern drafting book. The title is: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear 5th Edition out now, by Winifred Aldrich. It's an easy enough book. You can do courses which are easy as pie, you draft the block form with a square with multi sizes on it, all you do then is join the dots. Then you can use the above book as a guide to draft patterns to your size.
For people whose weight goes up and down, fitting is a nightmare. Everyone says to use bigger, wider seams so you can just modify the garment. No one ever covers which choices are wiser when it comes to styles that can accommodate bodily changes. Or fabric choices? How do I sew garments that have give without sacrificing style?? (Ty so much! Love your videos!)
I'm more of a beginning sewer. I struggle mightily with being super short, so must always adjust torso, sleeve length, trouser length. I wish there were more patterns scaled to smaller/petite people (are there, I really don't know). Also, I am very petite overall, but have a big bust. Adjusting for a bigger bust in the bodice is a very overwhelming process, and probably the adjustment that is most difficult for me.
Many patterns have lines for length adjustments. They’re horizontal and are marked “lengthen or shorten here”. Usually on the bodice, sleeve, and skirt/pant pieces. I think even the ones I own that aren’t marked Fit For Petite or Petite-able have them. More pattern companies are adding fitting helps to their patterns the last few years. And if you really get into it, they have adjustable petite dress forms. My husband bought me one for Christmas years ago, and she’s been a great help to me.
I know it’s not a common issue, but I am often much much larger than the largest size available. I have friends that are much much smaller than the commonly available sizes. It basically means the patterns becomes more of a guideline to all but completely redraft the garment, a lot of times I’m adding 12-14”. There’s no ‘starting at the right size’ for me usually, so I’ve kinda just learned to fit intuitively. I really want to learn more “proper” ways of doing it so I don’t need to brute force every time ^^;; but I’m honestly to the point where I’d rather take a slower in my size and try to design the pattern all over again than taking a patterning and grading it up.
Hi Evelyn, I enjoy youe videos, could you make one about how to get a tailor's dummy to the correct size please? I have one, but she is shorter from bust point to shoulder than I am, It's a difficult area to change. I know how (In theory) to pad out bust oe hips but this has me stumped. Thanks so much. A
Id love to know your suggestions on how to adjust a patterns waist height (not width), without throwing off the rest of the pattern. The smallest part of my waist is much higher than most commercial clothes (I think lots of larger women this is true for), and its one thing I would like to have more control over when sewing to help achieve that hourglass shape illusion. Any suggestions?
Hi Evelyn, first time commenting, but ive been a sub for quite a while. I love your videos, your so informative, and very graceful in the way you move, you remind me of Snow White (i hope you do not find this annoying) i am a 49 yr old beginner, and would love to start sewing vintage dresses for myself and my 9 yr old daughter, and i find your videos a wonderful resource. Thankyou for this information, as i know ill be at that point one day, and it is the question that pops into my head the most on my sewing journey,I have quite a large bust.......so..........lol...........how will i get it to fit properly?....arrrrrrr......but im up for the challenge :) . Cheers Evelyn :)
Right now I am working on how to fit my growing lats as well as my protruding shoulder blades. They do accumulate a lot of wierd adjustments that I can´t find any tutorials for. It really was a long and steep learning curve with a bunch of toilles as I worked on a dress with grown on sleeves and a dartless wrap back. Did eventually solve it by adding a dart to the back and adjusting the side seam and underarm seam om the back piece, but I really have no idea if I did it "correctly" or if there could have been an easier and more streamlined way to do this.
Adjusting a purchased outfit/pre-made outfit fit my petite size better. Basically take apart and adjust a purchased item especially bust darts, hips and lenght. To make outfit fit properly. Also have trouble with buying sleeveless shirts that my bra always shows because the arm holes are made too big.
I find the width issues rather easy to solve. I learned that as a teenager. But when bust is higher than expected in regards to body, and shoulders are more back than expected, and the back length (neck-to-waist) is shorter compared to front length.... Basically all the upper body critical things get out of whack. Typically patterns and store-bought clothes my bust point to be 2-5cm lower than it is, and the back length to be as much longer than it actually is. I am short, but my waist length is actually pretty close to standard - the difference is all above bust point! And don't even get me started on how sleeves fit. The modern sleeve openings are usually too big to work well for my body - they do reach below my bust after all... Vintage styles tend to have them smaller, which works better.
Oh and pant adjustments to make them fit! Never quite learned when to do what. I know I need "riding pant correction" usually, and probably switching some darts from front to back (that's simple enough). But the fitting the curve and the crotch... And of course they always need that!
What do you think of paper pattern fitting and going off the upper bust measurement to pick a size to start with. McCall's patterns have alteration lines added to patterns as per Melisa Watson tutorials...
My fit issue: Okay, so there's guides on how to take masculine cut clothing/patterns and make them more feminine, but there's not really much that I've been able to find regarding taking patterns with a feminine cut and making them more masculine in cut while still retaining the design features that might make them more interesting looking than typical men's clothes. It'd be useful if such advice existed since sometimes cosplayers might find a pattern intended for women to have the right overall look for a costume while having a cut that doesn't work for the wearer. (Also I'm a bit flamboyant and flashy in my tastes so sometimes I'll find women's shirt or jacket patterns that look far more interesting than the options made available for men; pattern manufacturers tend to have very few men's options! I fit off-the-rack men's mediums perfectly; if I'm going to take all the time to make something, I want it to be more interesting than Walmart's boring men's selection!)
Now this is very interesting idea! Your right, I've never heard of 'turning a women's clothes into mens'. I'm going to write this one down for later reference, I think it could be a fun topic to explore, I habe a surprising about of men in my sewing school! Thankyou for the suggestion!
I have ALL the fit issues: I'm short, large bust, but small rib cage, small waist, but very wide hips, especially the lower hip. I'm honestly starting to think drafting everything from scratch would be less work.
Until I started sewing I never realised how freakishly narrow my high bust is. My frame is average but my high bust and shoulders are two to three sizes smaller. It doesn't make choosing size an easy task for fitted bodices because usually I either have to choose the smaller size in patterns AND make it smaller in the high bust before making an FBA (which isn't usually good), or wear my full bust size and have gaping necklines. At least now I understand why RTW tops often don't fit well on my neck and shoulders. But it's frustrating because I avoid sewing fitted bodices even though they are the ones I like best.
I have tricky body: bust, waist and hips are different sizes, with hips almost 3 sizes up from bust and 2 from waist, also my hips start quite high, so the slope/curve waist-hip is very pronounced... I have given up on buying dresses, so I am starting to make my own. I have made skirts and tops separately, but it's time to start with the whole thing 😵💫😵💫 wish me luck!
Do you have any tutorials on grading up vintage patterns? I have several I'd love to be able to sew but most are at least two or three sizes too small. Thank you!
I am currently making men’s pants. I need to lower the the waist. The pattern has a line to shorten but it’s below the crotch point. This seems wrong so I have redrawn a line parallel but running through the zipper. I hope this will work. Also the mockup I made i intended to wear as shorts. So I have cut them out accordingly, was this a mistake will the extra length drastically change fit when I make my next mockup . Should I just use the extra fabric? Thank you so much for your videos.
I think you right in track! Both with your shortening of waist (doing it this way means your waistband still fits the waistline on the pattern, and for a male fit should still work for you) and making shorts for a mock up is a great idea! 😃
Hi I am 5' 11" have a large bust, and a large tummy , my hips are a several sizes smaller. I have always gone for the bust size and chosen a pattern that has no waistline. I love to make a skirt that fits. My tummy is going down( medical problem) . SO HOW DO I MAKE A SKIRT TO FIT A TUMMY!! LOVE YOUR VIDEO'S.
Hello Ms Evelyn, I recently came across some vintage patterns that belonged to my auntie, They are A bit smaller than me and i would really like to make some of them. How do i take care of these patterns so i can pass them on and how can i make adjustments to make them my size? Also, i think the sizing has changed from when these patterns were released. I am a size 16 i made a top and it was too small..lol it did say 16 on it, that's why i am thinking that sizing has changed, I've been watching your videos and i am grateful for all the educational information. You have inspired me to take out my sewing machine more often. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and for being a positive energy in the world
Hello MJHin. My name is Anna. I am an old hand at sewing. The paper pattern sizes never translate to bought dress sizes for a start. About getting longevity for your paper patterns, you can cut out the pieces, iron them flat, and pin them onto thicker brown paper. Cut out the pieces and add all the info onto the new paper. That's about it. Failing this, you could take a pattern drafting course. No need to take full time courses, but go to a privately run school, part time. They may have evening classes, or Saturday morning classes. You can attend as often as you like.
I need to know how to fix a large neckline on ready to wear tops. In order to fit my hips, I have to buy larger sizes. Unfortunately, the tops also come with larger neck holes and my bra straps always show. Please help with this issue as I'm sure there are many who feel the same. Thank you.
I found this very helpful. My hips are a shop size 10, roughly, & my waist is s12. My bust is technically a 14, but that's mostly back width...so in the shops, I can usually go a12. Sometimes 10, depending on the style/armhole. It's really hard trying to find the right starting size... Especially when I use the packet measurements. If i went by then, sometimes I appear to be a16, other times an 18. If i cut that, it's too big... So I'm not sure how to fix that! I've just bought a sewing dummy & am trying to get that right. (My OCD is making it longer than it should be!), but I'm hoping it will help. Anyone got any suggestions on which size to go with if the measurements suggest 20 but it's really too big??? My bust is really a shop size 12- but 103cm suggests more on packet. Do I use the lower one? And just tweak? I'm not wanting to play with arm scye etc. I want to do Evelyn 's course when she's well again. In the meantime, ideas? Hope all this made sense!! TIA!
I love your enthusiasm, expertise, and presentation. I used to be quite a good seamstress, not expert but accomplished. My hips have always been 1 or 2 sizes larger than my bust and so I sewed much of my clothing. I bought patterns to fit my top half and became acomplished at expanding the the waist to hip line on patterns. I have lost 140 pounds and my skirts and dresses that were mid calf are now maxi ankle length which I love. There are a few things I would like to alter to fit me now, but I don't want to ruin them. A lined chiffon skirt for one, and a button up shirt that I think could become a wrap around, and a velvet jacket/blazer that is a size between where I started and where I am now. I think the jacket could become a double breasted suit jacket, or have some waist shaping somehow. The shoulders and sleeves fit perfectly. My hips are still 1 to 2 sizes larger than my bust. Are these things that could be addressed in your sewing classes? Or do you have any ideas on how to go forward with those ideas? I would appreciate your viewpoint.
I have refashion workshops in VSS, these are step by step ans are of items that anyone can thrift and copy. I also teach some fitting ready to wear principles, so you combine all these into creating a refashion unique to you! My school is skills based, not project based, so then you can apply these skills to any project you have! 😊 If you have any questions just email me at info@evelynwood.com.au 😀
Hi Evelyn, this awesome thank you. I am a European plus size woman with curves everywhere. I select my starting size based on my high bust measurements, however I need to do lets say 5" fba. Do I do this adjustment first then ensure my bust , waist hip line of the pattern matches my body. Then focus on fitting alterations such as mid shoulder to apex etc. Hope this makes sense. Think I've just answered my own question
Hi, I would like to known if Im taking body measurements of a customer, do I have to make it slightly bigger on the paper pattern in order to get the right fit? For example, if someone 's waist is 32inches, do I make the pattern measurement 32 inches or about 33 inches? Please advice.
Well right now, I have no idea what size I am, nor do I know what size I will be in a few months. I've lost 60 pounds and have 20 more to go. When I started I was a 24.
New to your channel. I am a heavy woman with an inverted waistline. How do I find a pattern in my size and 2) alter it to accommodate my large waistline. I am a pear shape and my waist is my biggest circumference followed by my chest. I need to make some clothes for a military retirement ceremony in July. I am not a beginner sewer but have been away from it for a long while. Thanks in advance.
for some unknown reason, I have said yes to making bridesmaid dresses for my daughter-in-law-to-be, I do not sew or read patterns but I have practiced on the two little ones, My problem will be the elder two. One is slim but large busted, and the other is tall and slim with little to no bust. They are wanted for next year but none of them are available to measure, what are the best measurements to get them to take for me to make a start? I do realise there is going to be growing as well. What sort of allowance should i make for this? I have followed your videos and made a toile that works well for the little ones. Or should i book into the asylum now?
I hope this gives you a 'simple' way to look at pattern fitting! 😀Tell me, what are your fitting issues? what do you struggle with?
Join my sewing club!_ www.vintagesewingschool.com/ If you want a fun way to really learn how to use patterns and masters sewing garments, I can show you how!
Hi Evelyn, with me it's my shoulders as I'm a typical British pear shape, narrow shoulders, but wider hips. And I struggle every time with things like dresses or tops. 💕😊
other people are pear shaped but i'm more of a cone lol i have wide load hips with narrow shoulders so i end up with huge armholes and big chest ease
Hi, I have been sewing dresses for my daughter all her life. Now that she is a teenager, with a very athletic body (small bust, stronger waist, and preteen hips). So she can be a 12 up top, 14 in the middle, and 10 on the bottom.
I think a common problem is that we get excited to finish a project and don't take the time to step back and give yourself a little time to evaluate before moving on. :) When I pace myself and give myself permission to take that time I find the answers to many problems become much clearer than when feeling that desire to just finish it and wearing it already! :) I have saved many a project from the "dead files" where well meant projects are left to wither, waiting on inspiration that never comes by just giving myself a rest for a day doing other things and reevaluating the situation later.
This saves me so much needless seam ripping and adjusting and lets me see the garment/project as a whole, rather than focusing on that trouble spot. I remember having trouble with a sleeve, and because I have very large upper arms proportionately, I assumed the problem was with the arm scythe, but when I came back to it and looked at the whole dress, I could see I needed more room in the back, rather than messing with arm scythes and shoulder caps. I was so focused on what I assumed was the problem area, I almost made some fairly serious and unchangeable alterations that wouldn't have helped anyway.
And I thought children taught me patience! LOL. Nope.. sewing seems to be the great teacher in that for me. :)
Also, Good morning! (I am in the States..so you are just heading to bed I think? Math and I are not dear friends LOL)
You are correct!! 12.20am for meeee!! 😴😴😴 And I think your so right about slowing down. I like the way said it about just rushing to finish so you can wear it! I also made huge improvements in my skills when I stopped thinning about it as something I can wear tomorrow.... and more about the process of what I'm doing and doing it right! ❤
Always choose a pattern that fits your upper body (bust, armhole, shoulder) because there's too many adjustments needed. Waist and hips are much easier to grade up or down.
I agree! Usually this is the easiest way!
Shahida Begum And if you have a large bust, choose the size that fits the upper bust, then adjust the full bust. Otherwise you end up with the shoulder seams falling off your shoulders.
Right, I have read that your "true" size is armpit to armpit... this does not change with weight gain etc...
This is all revelatory!! Thanks so much for these wise words!
Except for making a jumpsuit. My butt is huge and when making pants I always have to make the butt curve longer or start at two sizes or so larger and fit my garmet tighter around the waist... the same often goes for convetionally bought pants. And it is reslly important since the butt curve doesn't stretch at all. Not even with things like leggins. If it doesn't fit it always wants to go into my butt...
The other thing I have to do with jumpsuits is lenghtening the torso... I could never wear them before making th3m myself because they were either too short in the torso or too huge on me. The same goes for swimsuits. I always had to opt out for a bikini...
This is such a nice video. My mom made lots of clothes for us, and she would regularly adjust or combine two sizes of the original pattern. Her pieces were so neat that I was sometimes asked where I bought the clothes I was wearing ;)
Aww that's so nice!
My mother was the same way. I wish I had sewes more with her.
Thank you. The suggestion of a choosing smaller size and adjusting the hip toward a larger size was valuable to me.
This video made a great difference in the way I approach a project, for instance my waist and hip are of size 12 and my bust line nearly size 14. After your video I went for a size 14 and narrowed in the waist and curve of the hips. This made so much more sense. Please do more detailed videos on example of possible adjustments like this.
This video had me yelling at the screen, “you’re a genius!” Was really frustrated trying to learn how to adjust the top of a dress pattern and you helped me realize… I can just use the size down for the top. Felt like a ding dong, but THANK YOU! Haha. Learning how to be more patient and thoughtful with projects through sewing, that’s for sure. 💕
Yes this makes great sense! I can definitely see how adding girth in the waist and hip could be easier that sizing down the bodice! Thank you!
I found my greatest learning experience in sewing was being stuck in Cambodia having to hand sew my clothes with no pattern ! Surprisingly, not only was I able to sew nice fitting clothes for my body but I lost my fear about sewing without guidance. If I made a mistake and I made many , I would just unpick and recut if necessary and try a new tactic. Sewing by hand and cutting without a pattern trains your eye and hand to really look at the overall picture 😀
Well done. But making up a pattern in the end is good for a record, and if you want to make duplicates.
Evelyn, I've been looking for you for weeks. Since now, you're fully responsible for my sewing progress!
Awww I'm glad to hear it! 😀 Happy sewing
Thank you for your excellent instruction! I have been sewing almost 50 years (WOW!) and I still have fitting questions. 😊
I agree it's something we never stop learning about!
This was so well explained. I went from not knowing a thing about fit vs size to now feeling like I can at least speak somewhat knowledgeably about it. (My sewing skills are still too new for me to say I can sew it! :D ) You have a great way of anticipating questions too. There were a couple of times while watching this I was like "I should remember to ask XYZ in the comments..." and sure enough the next thing you said was the answer to that question.
Another one for my learning to sew playlist!
😀😀 Awww thankyou! I'm glad you enjoyed it!!
Your fitting videos are very informative. I’m going to sew a simple top but I haven’t sewn garments for myself in decades. Thank you!
I'm tall and thin, which means pattern proportions are never right. Most tutorials only show how to add length to sleeves and hem, but tall people aren't just short people with two meter legs!! The extra length should be distributed evenly to keep bust, waist and hip lines in their correct places. That's very hard to do, with all the darts and so.
I am 5'1 with tiny waist bigger hips..I have no trunk length..abs, to hips are crushed together..SMH anytime i want shorts, pants, sweats.. I will always need to self create
I do that combining sizes thing! And highly recommend it!
I know from experience that if I'm working from a standard pattern I'll probably need to shorten the torso in total about 4 cm, raise the back neckline, and use parts from three different sizes in the pattern, so I usually make a mockup with those things in mind and don't need to change too much from there. Took me a little while to get good at smooth transitions between sizes for shoulder, upper body and lower body, but it is much less work than fitting from a mockup in a size that can only be correct in one place out of three, and which would always be too long. It also helps that I quite early came across a book that showed the "change lines" (adjustment lines? It was not a book in English) of standard pattern pieces, i.e. where in a pattern piece/block one should add or subtract length or width and how to make that consistent throughout the rest of the garment.
My nemesis though is adjusting/fitting crotch seams. I'm starting to get more of a hang of it, but it still sometimes ends up sitting a bit weirdly without me quite understanding why and having a hard time fixing it. Mostly I limit the issue by making patterns from garments I already know fit me well, but it is also hard to pattern the crotch seam correctly when doing that. I also prefer a looser fit in trousers, so fitting to a close fit doesn't work. Hm. Sounds like I need find me some good and detailed guides specifically for adjusting trouser patterns.
Kim is it easy to do that though with the two different pattern sizing? 💕😊
@@lynnniblock8355 It's usually not super hard to combine sizes. Usually you just have to figure out which sizes you need and then when you're tracing the pattern, transition as smoothly as you can from tracing one size to tracing the next size. You'll have to take additional measurements above and below the standard measurements so you can see where the shift happens.
Easy is a very relative term, I think. I would suppose it to be doable for anyone who either has some understanding already of how patterns are constructed or patience (stubbornness), curiosity and a mind to try it out. As well as acceptance for things to maybe start out so-so and need a bit of mockup adjustment untiI one gets the hang of it. I'd say it's a nice challenge with rewarding results, and a very handy skill to have.
What I do is compare my measurements to the measurements given for the different sizes, and then trace the pattern for the corresponding size around the area of the measuring point. So I start with the center front/back line, marking where neck, waist and bustline would be on the size that would closest fit my back length. Then I add the shoulder point and line from a size that fits that measurement, the bust area and lower armhole from another size, waist from a third and hips sometimes from a fourth, making sure to keep the same center front/back line and to keep the bust, waist and hip lines level and corresponding over different pattern pieces. Though sometimes I just trace the areas/points where they are on the pattern and shorten the back and front lenght to my measurement afterwards by folding away some length between bust and waist and some almost at the shoulder. With some patterns it is easier to make sure that the length adjustment is equal for all pieces that way.
I join these areas/points together into whole pattern pieces by trying to trace smooth transitions between them in a way that keeps the new measurements while imitating the shape of the original pieces. It usually helps to have a good idea of how the pattern pieces are supposed to fit together to make a shape, so that one knows what type of line is needed, if it should be straight, curved, angled and so on. I then compare and measure the different pieces and see if they still fit together, and adjust a bit if needed. Making sure the sleeve of the size I need fits the new armhole and such.
Unless I am VERY confident in my new pattern or have worked with a very similar garment before, I then make at least a partial mockup to see what might need more adjustment/correction. So it doesn't really take away the need to make a mockup/muslin, but there's usually less adjustment needed. Usually for me I just need to adjust the bust point or curve slightly, potentially take in the armhole a bit (especially for sleeveless things) and make sure the shoulder sits nicely. I haven't really done this with pants though, mostly tops, jackets and dresses. With pants I usually trace a pair I have that I really like the fit of, and then make a mockup from there.
This makes a lot of sense to me. I’m smaller on top but bigger hipped. I’m going to get a tailors dummy as I think this will help me.
Thanks x
Get an adjustable one! It makes all the difference. They have regular and petite ones that I know of-my husband gave me a petite one years ago (I’m 5’1”), and it’s saved me so much money and tears. My bust is just enough bigger than patterns or dress forms, so I dialed it to fit my rib cage/high bust and put an old bra on it and filled the cups in with batting, then put a stretchy cover over it. As I gain/lose that pesky 10-15 pounds, I just spin the dials to adjust her size.
A simple point, but so powerful! Funny how obvious things aren't obvious until somebody points them out 😉
When I choose a pattern, first I keep in mind the purpose of the garment, the principles that will make the garment flattering on my particular figure, and the silhouette that attracted me to the specific pattern. Then, trace the tissue pattern onto tracing paper and use the copy to get a rough fitting on my dress form. After adjusting the pattern, I make another copy, check it, cut it out in muslin, add markings with contrast basting thread, staystitch and clip curves, baste the front and back together, and fit on the form. Then, back to adjusting the pattern, etc. Only when I think it is perfect do I cut it out in the final fabric.
Hi Evelyn, you can't believe how happy I am for finding you in the online world. Years ago I took a sewing course in my hometown in Italy, it was both sewing and pattern designing course. The teacher had a great experience at working as a seamstress, but very little at teaching and listening. Long story short, I decided to give up sewing altogether. Now that I found you and other youtubers, I'm slowly getting back at it and your videos are so so useful for this! I can finally use ready made patters without hearing the voice of my teacher at the back of my head. I can start to work on them and make them useful for me and for what I want to achieve, which is just home sewing, not finding a profession. I'll avidly watch all other videos of yours. Thank you so so much again!!
🤩Or makes my day to hear this! Happy sewing!
I can't sew ( haven't touched a sewing machine since....junior high school home economics class!) but for some reason I really enjoy your videos :D
Also sewing etc aside, I really love your classic look of the red lips and the red manicure (even though I don't wear any makeup or nail polish myself.)
Love your vintage looking jewelry too! :D
Aww well thanks for watching! Perhaps you will be inspired to dust off that sewing machine someday! 😀
I so wish I could carry off a lovely shade of lipstick like that. It looks fairly garish with my coloring though. I get my vicarious lipstick fixes through others. :)
I think it's all about the right shade, ans just wearing it anyway! I used to think my lips were too thin to wear it 🤔🤣
I'm not a new sewer but I still really struggle with this. I always end up ripping and adjusting and not always with satisfactory results! This video was really helpful! I've been making nightgowns lately, partly because I needed some new ones but also they're very forgiving on size. But I want to make some more dresses. In our warm Texas climate, dresses are so much more comfortable and less judgmenta 😜 on a pudgy tummy than shorts.
Combining two different sizes on the same pattern? Brilliant!
This truly could not have come at a better time! I have been working on a mockup of a jacket pattern these past few days and I am really having trouble with the fit! I had to put down the project for a few days because I felt so discouraged. I tried my best to look online to see what might be the problem and try to fix the problems with the fit. Somewhere successful others not so much, ahaha, but I have been learning so much! I was actually talking to my boyfriend last night, over dinner, about how I was really intreated in joining your Vintage Sewing School to learn more. I was even hoping to hopefully learn more about proper fitting techniques and then this video pops up! You absolutely have a new student joining your class!
😀😀 Eric perfect timing then!!! I'm so excited! Fitting is hard, as you really have to learn to apply the skills in your own way, and learn how to adjust patterns at the same time! It is the focus for the next 6 months at VSS so ww will be covering lots! I look forward to having you in class! 😀
I have a large bust, shapely waist and narrower hips. I recently made a princess line dress, and on your previous videos, made a size to accommodate my bust, then took in the side seams under the arms and the princess seams over the bust. I made the neckline a bit higher and I should have taken in the centre front seam as well, before I sewed on the neckline facing. It’s not too bad, so I’ve noted that adjustment along with the ones I did make, for next time. When I next put it on I may use a smaller size for the bottom half next time. Very clear, thank you! 👍❤️
You make things so much clearer. The top you are wearing is stunning my favourite colour.
Just got back from the thrift store with a LOT of sheets. Pretty excited for them to be all washed and ready so I can start sewing! Woot woot
I think for such a fitted, panel dress, working with the muslin is a must. Of course, this is a time consuming process we would rather skip! ...but then we we will not be pleased with the results! I’m trying to move beyond the tunic pattern though I love how those look with a belt and how, if you are going overboard with eating festivities, you just move the belt over a notch! Or the elastic waistband, the draw string ... all wearer-forgiving. Thank you so much for guiding us through a proper fitting!
Thanks for watching! I agree, a mockup seems like such a waste of time when you start..... then you realize how much time yoy waste because you didn't do one and test enough first! 🤣
I've learned to love the test garment(s), not least because I make all the construction mistakes on those first. I rather like the slow-sewing.
Muslins are great for trying out the pattern, and making sure the garment will look good on you. One of these days I’m going to watch for a good sale and buy a whole bolt of it just to have on hand.
pvanpelt1 absolutely! Good fabric is so expensive and fitting issues are not easy to fix so better to try out the pattern in the muslin!
I’m the same as you with sizing bust is standard gives me a size 16, but when I look at the waist and hips it gives me a bigger size.. all and all I need to go on a diet...love your video I have learned a lot... I will become a member of your vintage sewing school
Evelyn, I find this to be so true.
With me making children's clothes .
Hi Evelyn, I have really fat flabby upper arms and have lots of trouble fitting sleeves. I would love some guides for this. 😶
Hi Evelyn, It so enjoyable to hear you give us your tips and tricks to us Thank you
a swayback adjustment would be lifechanging! every single thing I own has a great bit smile of fabric on the back. I also have a really short waist which doesn't help my cause one bit. The main reason I've decided to learn to sew is a love for vintage silhouettes and i'm so sick of everything from the store fitting like a grain sack because shops seem to cater only to people over 5ft5 and built like an ironing board. I'm 5ft2½ short waisted, big boobed, swaybacked and low hipped. According to the high street I am a gargoyle rather than a human.
You are just wonderful. So many things I have learned from you. Your the best
I was scanned by Unique patterns in 2004, and ordered custom patterns from them. They are out of business, and I only had 2. A pair of zipper ,button top straight leg slacks , and a flared ,princess seamed dress. I loved it! So I got spoiled. I gain, lose weight, seasons change, fashions change, and I get so frustrated maintaining a functioning ,matching wardrobe I can afford. I will leave allowances in my seams for letting in and out. I honestly think we need to start a clothing line with this intent. Adjustable clothing.
I took a sewing class years ago, and the teacher always cut 1” seam allowances just for that.
Hi Evelyn. I enjoy your videos and they are always helpful ! Thankyou for sharing.
I love how straightforward your explanations are, often makes things I’ve struggled to comprehend so obvious as to be laughable 😆 I have to admit, if you ever did a video on knowing when bust adjustments are the needed alteration (enlargement is the obvious one, but reduction really needs to be talked about too..!) and so forth I’d be very grateful. But always looking forward to whatever you put put :)
In Britain and Australia teachers speak in a simple and straightforward way making it simple to understand. I'm totally confused by tutors from the US. I give them a miss. The language and system they use is so convoluted. They specialise in making something simple, twisting it about in language where only space engineers can understand. Well you get my drift. Why confuse ppl with too much talk and making it look so terribly difficult when it ISN'T? Just use few but simple words and demonstrate. They just like to show off and brag with convoluted language and ppl leave confused. There IS A BETTER WAY FOLKS! Keep it SIMPLE!
This was so helpful and wonderful information. I am going to be Refashioning/Altering a dress I bought on clearance. I'm going to be wearing it to a wedding in September. I am sure I will be rewatching all of your refashioning and fitting videos to help me recreate this dress. Wish me luck.
After the twins were born, I lost the pregnancy weight and still couldn't fit into my old clothes because my shape had changed from an hourglass to an outsized pear (i.e. a pear shape with larger hips than is proportional for a traditional pear shape). And the fact that I have a disproportionately smaller waist (which my mother also had) made fitting more difficult. I switched to tailored clothing only but cannot see my tailor now due to the pandemic. I have a chic style and the only readymades that fit are loungewear--woe is me. Sewing my own clothes is a must right now, and your channel really helps.
When I was younger I didnt mind making slacks at all. But after menopause I lost my waist & my tummy grew. I have not been happy since no matter how I alter things. Ive settled on buying a size too big. Ive also lost 2 sizes in weight. I get the best results taking thing up from the waist & only taking in the seams at tummy level, front & back. But the thighs are usually still too big & sometimes I get folds hanging in the rear. Age & significant weight loss do not play well together.
Love your videos. I see it is much easier to make adjustments with a form. I would like to see an easy way to make adjustments without the form. I haven't found a form that is affordable in my size range.
I never fit on my manniquin, only on myself! I have another video on fitting garments on yourself here ruclips.net/video/MW6EbH-g8Ms/видео.html
Is just a case of taking it on and off at least 124 times! 🤣
I actually used that method yesterday while making a top. Thank you for your reply. You’re the best.
You can take pattern drafting lessons. Flat pattern drafting requires no dressmaking dummy. Those bought paper patterns give everyone a headache as it did to me all those years ago. It can be difficult to follow what others have drafted for you and their sewing instructions leave a lot to be desired if you are putting something more difficult together. When you draw up your own pattern, it is made from your body measurements from the beginning, thus cutting out the fitting which is a pain. Look into it if this is what you would prefer to do than bothering to do all sorts of adjustments. Let me know. Good luck.
Wow did I need that! Thank you!!
I'd love to know how to custom fit slacks after the pattern.
i used surefit designs custom pattern drafting. Slacks are tricky
I have been sewing longer than I care to say and slacks are STILL a garment that I don't try to make. So tricky.
I have a thick waist and abd with a small derrière. I always either have a baggy bottom or a tight waist! Learning to combine patterns would be amazing.
I'm beginner beginner. So I really haven't a clue what I just watched. But I desperately want to learn to sew garments 🤞
Hi Emily, how is your dressmaking going? Are you taking sewing classes? I was where you are now, 40 years ago. It always bring me joy to see young ppl interested in sewing, cooking & baking bcz when I look for a buddy to partner up for any of these hobbies, they walk away never interested. I feel these hobbies are truly dead these days. Quilting is all the rage these days, but why? They can just buy a nice duvet & that's it, but clothing is worn and we can make whatever we like to wear. You won't find it anywhere else. It's an original. The choice is up to ourselves; colour, fabric, style, length etc. Thank God I never need to buy paper patterns. Once I learnt how to put fabric pieces together and use a sewing machine like a pro and that was in my mid 20s after much practice, I did a pattern drafting course. I much recommend it. I found it too much of a headache adjusting sizes on patterns someone else had drawn up. Also I often found their sewing instructions as clear as mud. I was left stranded. When you draft your own, you know exactly what you've done and it's much easier. I was a baby beginner also. I never knew anyone who sewed. I didn't know how to attach a button, let alone take up a hem. I never thought I could do it, but once I understood how it all works, it was easy peasy. I have since missed the company of like-minded souls so I have to do these things on my own.
Thanks for your advice.
Amazing you really help all the time love it
Very helpful! I wish I’d known some of this before I made a dress years ago that had a too small waist that wouldn’t zip when I was done. Whoops!
You'll know what to try nect time 😀
Battling my 32G bodice sloper at the moment after some weightloss - I seem to be dealing not only with fit but with balance, and the two keep mucking each other up. I might be able to do this on someone else, but on myself it's a real pain. Whingeing aside, I'm pretty close and the next one will be in checked fabric so's I can analyse the drape better.
Perma Pen UK that is a great idea. I love check and plaids. but hadn’t really thought to use the built in measurements.
@@adamreynolds9816 Yes, seeing the checks droop in all the wrong places is very illuminating!
Thankyou for this one, pl make a video on drafting and stitching a basic short sleeve top or a dress .
Thanks Evelyn. My fitting issue is very slim in the shoulders, so I regularly have to take out width in the top of a pattern and try to grade back out. Otherwise, the shoulders are too wide and fall off me.
My fitting problem has changed over the last years. I have always been pear shaped, I am small boned , have weight more than I care to think about, but I have always even when at a average weight been two sizes smaller at the top, tiny waist, and wide hips. Flat tummy. But now I have a waist that is larger then ever and a tummy. I get lost on how to adjust a one piece garment that to do separates. I find it much easier to make a garment for someone else than for me. But I still love to sew and the touch of fabric etc. Yes I do sew for myself but sometimes it takes awhile to figure out where to begin. Thanks
This is very helpful!
Love that top you have on!
I'm quite new at sewing and learn so much from your videos. I have so far been doing more simple patterns, but for me there are two things regarding fitting.
1. I have a long torso, and sometimes I want to legthen the pattern, especially for dresses or the waistline comes across my ribs, but that could be tricky to get right.
2. My arms are thicker and even though I have not made a garnment with fitted sleeves (that are not stretch) I wonder if I could get away by sewing with a smaller seam allowance, or if I have to change the whole sleeve.
For me most problematic is a upper part (torso area). Because all the curves that need fit in the front panel and I have relatively short torso. It's sometimes generates problems with to big back part or with darts that are not in correct position. When I make project and saw that thing, learn a lot even if project is not perfect, next time I know what problems was in it and I will learn how to fix it. Mockups are great for this. Also in next project you know your problematic area and you will check up if you have good enough fit for you. Just keep sawing and don't be to hard for yourself.
That was helpful, I'll have a look at the other clips tomorrow. In case you are still looking for fit-issues we have: my shoulders are wide and arms are fairly large. Usually they don't fit in the largest pattern size in available patterns, even if the rest is large enough. Any tips on upscaling sleeve patterns and fitting sleeves would be very much appreciated. And how to increase arm mobility too! Thanks!
I have lost 12 kilos in weight, due to an ongoing health problem, so trying to sew myself lots of new summer clothes that fit x
I know your videos are aimed at women, specifically vintage fashion, but they have been super helpful for me to hear how you think and talk about your projects that I can transfer to my menswear projects. I'm learning to sew so that I can make clothes that fit me well (I'm a 6'3, 275 lb man). I always want to express myself better through the clothes I wear but the "fun" stuff usually is never in my size, or is just too short on my torso. I still have a long way to go to fully understand men's tailoring and construction, but your videos have been so helpful. Thank you Evelyn!
Do you have any recommendations on the menswear side? I know its a whole other beast, but maybe having a video that tackles unisex styles (a basic t-shirt or button up or shorts) and how to get those fitting properly would be super helpful.
😀 I'm glad to hear you have been able to see how the same skills translate! I wouldn't say that I have any unisex tutorials here, but lots of skills and ways of thinking you can apply to any sewing project! I will keep it in mind though as I seem to have alot of gentlemen sewing friends here!
Hi Apwelch. I suggest you get a men's pattern drafting book. The title is: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear 5th Edition out now, by Winifred Aldrich. It's an easy enough book. You can do courses which are easy as pie, you draft the block form with a square with multi sizes on it, all you do then is join the dots. Then you can use the above book as a guide to draft patterns to your size.
Great to know, thank you.
For people whose weight goes up and down, fitting is a nightmare. Everyone says to use bigger, wider seams so you can just modify the garment. No one ever covers which choices are wiser when it comes to styles that can accommodate bodily changes. Or fabric choices? How do I sew garments that have give without sacrificing style?? (Ty so much! Love your videos!)
I'm more of a beginning sewer. I struggle mightily with being super short, so must always adjust torso, sleeve length, trouser length. I wish there were more patterns scaled to smaller/petite people (are there, I really don't know). Also, I am very petite overall, but have a big bust. Adjusting for a bigger bust in the bodice is a very overwhelming process, and probably the adjustment that is most difficult for me.
Many patterns have lines for length adjustments. They’re horizontal and are marked “lengthen or shorten here”. Usually on the bodice, sleeve, and skirt/pant pieces. I think even the ones I own that aren’t marked Fit For Petite or Petite-able have them. More pattern companies are adding fitting helps to their patterns the last few years. And if you really get into it, they have adjustable petite dress forms. My husband bought me one for Christmas years ago, and she’s been a great help to me.
@@pvanpelt1 Thanks a bunch! Always good to hear all of this helpful info.!!
Hi Evelyn, I often have problems fitting princess seams particularly near the armholes at front and back
I know it’s not a common issue, but I am often much much larger than the largest size available. I have friends that are much much smaller than the commonly available sizes. It basically means the patterns becomes more of a guideline to all but completely redraft the garment, a lot of times I’m adding 12-14”. There’s no ‘starting at the right size’ for me usually, so I’ve kinda just learned to fit intuitively. I really want to learn more “proper” ways of doing it so I don’t need to brute force every time ^^;; but I’m honestly to the point where I’d rather take a slower in my size and try to design the pattern all over again than taking a patterning and grading it up.
My struggle the last two weeks in a nutshell!
Oh wonderful you I keep cutting out a size to small
Hi Evelyn, I enjoy youe videos, could you make one about how to get a tailor's dummy to the correct size please? I have one, but she is shorter from bust point to shoulder than I am, It's a difficult area to change. I know how (In theory) to pad out bust oe hips but this has me stumped. Thanks so much. A
Id love to know your suggestions on how to adjust a patterns waist height (not width), without throwing off the rest of the pattern. The smallest part of my waist is much higher than most commercial clothes (I think lots of larger women this is true for), and its one thing I would like to have more control over when sewing to help achieve that hourglass shape illusion. Any suggestions?
Hi Evelyn, first time commenting, but ive been a sub for quite a while. I love your videos, your so informative, and very graceful in the way you move, you remind me of Snow White (i hope you do not find this annoying) i am a 49 yr old beginner, and would love to start sewing vintage dresses for myself and my 9 yr old daughter, and i find your videos a wonderful resource. Thankyou for this information, as i know ill be at that point one day, and it is the question that pops into my head the most on my sewing journey,I have quite a large bust.......so..........lol...........how will i get it to fit properly?....arrrrrrr......but im up for the challenge :) . Cheers Evelyn :)
Thanks for following! I'm excited about your vintage sewing dreams! And I get called Snow White alot! 🤣
Right now I am working on how to fit my growing lats as well as my protruding shoulder blades. They do accumulate a lot of wierd adjustments that I can´t find any tutorials for. It really was a long and steep learning curve with a bunch of toilles as I worked on a dress with grown on sleeves and a dartless wrap back. Did eventually solve it by adding a dart to the back and adjusting the side seam and underarm seam om the back piece, but I really have no idea if I did it "correctly" or if there could have been an easier and more streamlined way to do this.
Adjusting a purchased outfit/pre-made outfit fit my petite size better. Basically take apart and adjust a purchased item especially bust darts, hips and lenght. To make outfit fit properly. Also have trouble with buying sleeveless shirts that my bra always shows because the arm holes are made too big.
I find the width issues rather easy to solve. I learned that as a teenager.
But when bust is higher than expected in regards to body, and shoulders are more back than expected, and the back length (neck-to-waist) is shorter compared to front length.... Basically all the upper body critical things get out of whack.
Typically patterns and store-bought clothes my bust point to be 2-5cm lower than it is, and the back length to be as much longer than it actually is. I am short, but my waist length is actually pretty close to standard - the difference is all above bust point!
And don't even get me started on how sleeves fit. The modern sleeve openings are usually too big to work well for my body - they do reach below my bust after all... Vintage styles tend to have them smaller, which works better.
Oh and pant adjustments to make them fit! Never quite learned when to do what. I know I need "riding pant correction" usually, and probably switching some darts from front to back (that's simple enough). But the fitting the curve and the crotch... And of course they always need that!
What do you think of paper pattern fitting and going off the upper bust measurement to pick a size to start with. McCall's patterns have alteration lines added to patterns as per Melisa Watson tutorials...
My fit issue: Okay, so there's guides on how to take masculine cut clothing/patterns and make them more feminine, but there's not really much that I've been able to find regarding taking patterns with a feminine cut and making them more masculine in cut while still retaining the design features that might make them more interesting looking than typical men's clothes. It'd be useful if such advice existed since sometimes cosplayers might find a pattern intended for women to have the right overall look for a costume while having a cut that doesn't work for the wearer. (Also I'm a bit flamboyant and flashy in my tastes so sometimes I'll find women's shirt or jacket patterns that look far more interesting than the options made available for men; pattern manufacturers tend to have very few men's options! I fit off-the-rack men's mediums perfectly; if I'm going to take all the time to make something, I want it to be more interesting than Walmart's boring men's selection!)
Now this is very interesting idea! Your right, I've never heard of 'turning a women's clothes into mens'. I'm going to write this one down for later reference, I think it could be a fun topic to explore, I habe a surprising about of men in my sewing school! Thankyou for the suggestion!
I have ALL the fit issues: I'm short, large bust, but small rib cage, small waist, but very wide hips, especially the lower hip.
I'm honestly starting to think drafting everything from scratch would be less work.
Ice Princess you must be my twin lol
@@rachelunderwood4868 Sewing still beats the heck out of buying clothes though.
Me three
Drafting from scratch is never easier 😭
Same here size wise x
Until I started sewing I never realised how freakishly narrow my high bust is. My frame is average but my high bust and shoulders are two to three sizes smaller. It doesn't make choosing size an easy task for fitted bodices because usually I either have to choose the smaller size in patterns AND make it smaller in the high bust before making an FBA (which isn't usually good), or wear my full bust size and have gaping necklines. At least now I understand why RTW tops often don't fit well on my neck and shoulders. But it's frustrating because I avoid sewing fitted bodices even though they are the ones I like best.
Do you have any videos on changing the bust size? like going from a B cup into a D cup.
I have tricky body: bust, waist and hips are different sizes, with hips almost 3 sizes up from bust and 2 from waist, also my hips start quite high, so the slope/curve waist-hip is very pronounced... I have given up on buying dresses, so I am starting to make my own. I have made skirts and tops separately, but it's time to start with the whole thing 😵💫😵💫 wish me luck!
Do you have any tutorials on grading up vintage patterns? I have several I'd love to be able to sew but most are at least two or three sizes too small. Thank you!
Love the video. Could you tell me which mannequin is best?
I am currently making men’s pants. I need to lower the the waist. The pattern has a line to shorten but it’s below the crotch point. This seems wrong so I have redrawn a line parallel but running through the zipper. I hope this will work. Also the mockup I made i intended to wear as shorts. So I have cut them out accordingly, was this a mistake will the extra length drastically change fit when I make my next mockup . Should I just use the extra fabric? Thank you so much for your videos.
I think you right in track! Both with your shortening of waist (doing it this way means your waistband still fits the waistline on the pattern, and for a male fit should still work for you) and making shorts for a mock up is a great idea! 😃
Hi I am 5' 11" have a large bust, and a large tummy , my hips are a several sizes smaller. I have always gone for the bust size and chosen a pattern that has no waistline. I love to make a skirt that fits. My tummy is going down( medical problem) . SO HOW DO I MAKE A SKIRT TO FIT A TUMMY!! LOVE YOUR VIDEO'S.
Hi Evelyn, I have a sway back with an apple bottom any suggestions you may have are welcome.
I love the top you have on the form at the beginning; what pattern is that?
It's a refashion actually! I have a workshop for it for members of Vintage Sewing School 😀
Hello Ms Evelyn, I recently came across some vintage patterns that belonged to my auntie, They are A bit smaller than me and i would really like to make some of them. How do i take care of these patterns so i can pass them on and how can i make adjustments to make them my size? Also, i think the sizing has changed from when these patterns were released. I am a size 16 i made a top and it was too small..lol it did say 16 on it, that's why i am thinking that sizing has changed, I've been watching your videos and i am grateful for all the educational information. You have inspired me to take out my sewing machine more often. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and for being a positive energy in the world
Hello MJHin. My name is Anna. I am an old hand at sewing. The paper pattern sizes never translate to bought dress sizes for a start. About getting longevity for your paper patterns, you can cut out the pieces, iron them flat, and pin them onto thicker brown paper. Cut out the pieces and add all the info onto the new paper. That's about it. Failing this, you could take a pattern drafting course. No need to take full time courses, but go to a privately run school, part time. They may have evening classes, or Saturday morning classes. You can attend as often as you like.
What if the patterns aren’t big enough for you in the largest size?
Hi Evelyn, menopause has given me an apple tummy. My bust and hips are perfect 16 but my tummy goes to size 20. Help!!
Broad shoulders are my problem, especially regarding back zips.
Then extend the shoulder line at the armhole edge and widen the bodies at the underarm point then draw a straight line down to the waistline.
I'd exchange your broad shoulders with my narrow ones anytime!
I need to know how to fix a large neckline on ready to wear tops. In order to fit my hips, I have to buy larger sizes. Unfortunately, the tops also come with larger neck holes and my bra straps always show. Please help with this issue as I'm sure there are many who feel the same. Thank you.
I found this very helpful. My hips are a shop size 10, roughly, & my waist is s12. My bust is technically a 14, but that's mostly back width...so in the shops, I can usually go a12. Sometimes 10, depending on the style/armhole. It's really hard trying to find the right starting size... Especially when I use the packet measurements. If i went by then, sometimes I appear to be a16, other times an 18. If i cut that, it's too big... So I'm not sure how to fix that! I've just bought a sewing dummy & am trying to get that right. (My OCD is making it longer than it should be!), but I'm hoping it will help. Anyone got any suggestions on which size to go with if the measurements suggest 20 but it's really too big??? My bust is really a shop size 12- but 103cm suggests more on packet. Do I use the lower one? And just tweak? I'm not wanting to play with arm scye etc. I want to do Evelyn 's course when she's well again. In the meantime, ideas? Hope all this made sense!! TIA!
I love your enthusiasm, expertise, and presentation. I used to be quite a good seamstress, not expert but accomplished. My hips have always been 1 or 2 sizes larger than my bust and so I sewed much of my clothing. I bought patterns to fit my top half and became acomplished at expanding the the waist to hip line on patterns. I have lost 140 pounds and my skirts and dresses that were mid calf are now maxi ankle length which I love. There are a few things I would like to alter to fit me now, but I don't want to ruin them. A lined chiffon skirt for one, and a button up shirt that I think could become a wrap around, and a velvet jacket/blazer that is a size between where I started and where I am now. I think the jacket could become a double breasted suit jacket, or have some waist shaping somehow. The shoulders and sleeves fit perfectly. My hips are still 1 to 2 sizes larger than my bust. Are these things that could be addressed in your sewing classes? Or do you have any ideas on how to go forward with those ideas? I would appreciate your viewpoint.
I have refashion workshops in VSS, these are step by step ans are of items that anyone can thrift and copy. I also teach some fitting ready to wear principles, so you combine all these into creating a refashion unique to you! My school is skills based, not project based, so then you can apply these skills to any project you have! 😊 If you have any questions just email me at info@evelynwood.com.au 😀
Thank You! I will check that out. I think what you do is great and appeals to imagination and sparks creative thoughts too.
Hi evelyn would it be the same if your bust and waist is bigger than your hips .thank you xx
Hi Evelyn, this awesome thank you. I am a European plus size woman with curves everywhere. I select my starting size based on my high bust measurements, however I need to do lets say 5" fba. Do I do this adjustment first then ensure my bust , waist hip line of the pattern matches my body. Then focus on fitting alterations such as mid shoulder to apex etc. Hope this makes sense. Think I've just answered my own question
Hi, I would like to known if Im taking body measurements of a customer, do I have to make it slightly bigger on the paper pattern in order to get the right fit?
For example, if someone 's waist is 32inches, do I make the pattern measurement 32 inches or about 33 inches? Please advice.
My problem is my bustline is larger than the largest size on almost every pattern I come across, while my waist is 16w, and my hips are even smaller.
🤔 Yep, that will cause you issues fitting for sure!! Have you been adventurous enough to try a full bust adjustment??
I use SureFit designs to make a custom sloper. I think you may find that helpful. She has a paid system but loads of youtube videos
Well right now, I have no idea what size I am, nor do I know what size I will be in a few months. I've lost 60 pounds and have 20 more to go. When I started I was a 24.
Your just cute as ever like always. You always dress and look so sweet. Hope you have a wonderful day. Hi Texas
New to your channel. I am a heavy woman with an inverted waistline. How do I find a pattern in my size and 2) alter it to accommodate my large waistline. I am a pear shape and my waist is my biggest circumference followed by my chest. I need to make some clothes for a military retirement ceremony in July. I am not a beginner sewer but have been away from it for a long while. Thanks in advance.
for some unknown reason, I have said yes to making bridesmaid dresses for my daughter-in-law-to-be, I do not sew or read patterns but I have practiced on the two little ones, My problem will be the elder two. One is slim but large busted, and the other is tall and slim with little to no bust. They are wanted for next year but none of them are available to measure, what are the best measurements to get them to take for me to make a start? I do realise there is going to be growing as well. What sort of allowance should i make for this? I have followed your videos and made a toile that works well for the little ones. Or should i book into the asylum now?
Please I want to join your online sewing school
i like the top you are wearing, have you made it..?if so, do you mind show us how to make a pattern of it, please.