mate, I am impressed by the logical and factual reasoning, and by your humbleness, you are not afraid to ask for help or advise. Great role model for others attempting to do their own projects So, I think I know why you only own a TIG, but please share why no MIG in your shed.
Thanks Rod, some kind words there ☺️. I like seeing the weld pool and where I am penetrating so have always just loved TIG, I’ve actually just picked up a MIG to do some of the heavier gauge stuff on the chassis but I’ll have to learn how to use it first! I guess by forcing myself to weld TIG only it has helped me get better at it and then when I have to do something like a manifold i don’t have to practice I can just get straight into it!
BTW> I love how you rebottled the used vinegar and stuck it back in the kitchen for the Msss to use. .'In that way you can get your daily dose of iron'.
Great work man. The Welding will be question mark for a few people who might watch this video. But reality is ? We can't be the best at everything we do. At the end of the day, no one will be under the bonnet checking out your welds. Big Thumbs Up. Thanks for bringing us along to show your work in progress. Peter.
Awesome work fabricating the manifold mate, looks fantastic. Someone else mentioned the skid factory and their useful information - couldn’t agree with that recommendation more. They built up a Stagea with a turbo V8 and did ceramic coated log manifolds, there’s a Q&A video on Mighty Car Mods’ other channel MCMTV2 where Al explains the science behind ceramic coated log manifolds and how keeping the heat in the exhaust and out through the turbo is good for quick spool / responsiveness etc. Well worth a look. Keep up the awesome work mate, loving the build series!!
@@DesignedandBuilt ha ha, it’s a bit like that. Long story short is for your application, engine size and what you want the engine to behave like (responsive rather than outright horsepower) ceramic coated log manifolds would be the right decision. Keep up the great work mate 👍🏻
Thanks mate, I think I will go studs! I actually mocked up a patroldocta air box out of cardboard and couldn’t make it fit on hot side and want to avoid crossover pipes so I’m thinking I’ll just go custom!
If you want to leak test it your half way there. Make up a gasket and bolt it back on the RHS you used to weld it with. Then make up a blanking plate where the turbo sits, make up a gasket to suit. Then drill a holes in the blanking plate and tap it to suit some fittings, tee in a gauge and a ball valve to dead head the system. Fill with compressed air and close off ball valve, see how quickly it leaks and use soapy water to find where leaks are.... otherwise it's a very nice job mate. Keep up the good work....👍👍👍
Gees! That was a not-so-obvious but brilliant idea. Build everything on the RHS was already a stunning idea, but leak test it on the same jig is even better. I'm pinching that idea! LOL
Looks good Rich! It doesn't take long for turbo beanies to fall apart along the seams so go with the dimpled heat shield and mould it over the the turbo. Make sure you have a 10mm air gap between the heat shield and turbine housing, air's the best insulator. With mounting the turbo go with ARP stainless studs with flange headed pinch nuts. You want roll formed studs not the china shit on ebay. After a few heat cycles they will snap off when you go to retighten them. You can get good quality pinch nuts from a VW dealer for 3 bucks each
@@DesignedandBuilt it was years ago when i turbod my 1fz.fe i used one it was sitting on a shelf at at work shop i was buying parts from and the guy gave it to me.
Sure this is a tad late Richard but I took Luke Dale DPUK’s advice and fastens every manifold with Nordlock mechanical washers. Clever design and supposedly as good as it gets for heat cycling especially exhaust and turbo fixings
Good job on the manifold, should work great. Did you check the flatness of the flanges with a straight edge/steel rule? You would usually still get some pull no matter how hard you torque it down. Without presetting (a nightmare to work out) the flange, you have done everything you can to keep it straight, so hopefully it will only need a quick touchup on a linisher to straighten it out
I think that mamba " flange dump pipe " is going to make boost creep issues. Anytime we put a high flow cat or decent intercooler kit on a xr6t the std ford waste gate hole just can't keep up with flow and overboosting is a issue. Port the waste gate hole 100%
Good work bud I mad the same style on my tb45t patrol I had problem with the manifold pulling away at each end after a few solid heat cycles I've made a low mount manifold for it now and I've made solid brackets from flange to flange so the turbo stays in the same spot and the pipes can move fingers crossed it wont warp the manifold again and deffently use studs not bolts being alloy it will strip the threads fitting and removing it
Hey Tyson, that’s a great idea. Fingers crossed for you! I am thinking bracing my manifold back to the block to take some of the load off. Yeah I think studs are the ticket!
I drilled my water feed an return ,banjo bolts ,cross holes ,out to the same size as the bottom hole ,,it seem to help with my turbo not getting hot ,,an no more creeking sounds ,after I turn the engine off..I dunno iff it was the rite thing to do ,,but it seems to have worked..cheers..
Do you watch the skid factory on RUclips? Alot of great info on there that you might get something of value out of with the build mate. Nice work though keep up the vids 👍
@@DesignedandBuilt they did some videos about making log manifolds and heat transfer real interesting stuff i think it'll help you out. I'm watching the build closely mate I'm jealous, was literally about to do the same thing until life slapped us about
I wouldn’t worry about the heat from turbo to the rocker cover. But u welded a exhaust manifold already. I would bent a 1-2mm plate and bolt on to the exhaust manifold at turbine housing side to guard the heat alittle. If ur afraid of that heat reaching to the rocker cover seals.
Welds look ok for "terible job" I've seen tig stitches that look worse than stick with slag and I've seen stick welds that look better than those instagram rainbow welds, so you're ok :D and the manifold will outflow the factory one!
Hey mate quick question? Just a comment you made in 1 of your earlier videos I’m just about to start my build similar to yours and you mentioned it’s harder to get it engineered if the 80 chassis has had abs? Any chance you have any more info about that? Or any other hot tips? Cheers Matt
Hi Mate, best advice I could give you is engage an engineer early on and run a few things with them. Talk about your plan etc. It would be possible to get one engineered with ABS, just more checks have to be done.
Will do cheers!! Just picked up a good 45 and I’ve already got a couple of 80s to pick from but my best chassis happens to be the 1 with abs, super pumped to get it started!! Cheers for all the inspiration and ideas your putting out there on your channel I’ll definitely be picking your brain in the near future if that’s ok keep up the good work and videos 👍🏻👌🏻
Coat it and put a blanket but don’t cheap out use a dei one or something similar cheapy ones catch fire you will be pleasantly surprised with under hood temps
I think you were being paranoid about the warping. That metal is way to thick to be a problem with MIG. Especially if you went end-to-end. The contiguous weld would have been better, structurally. That's IMHO.
Hydrochloric acid would have that mill scale 100% removed in 10-15mins. Flapper discs etc are painful as they heat the mill scale and just move it around clogging up flapper or grinding discs. There are specific diamond coated wire wheels but these are ridiculously expensive. Acid will last a year no problems.
@@MRMOPARMAN0426 yeh, meant to say stud with with no thread ends. Like all thread - www.justkampers.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/12/image/800x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/J/1/J10560-0_7.jpg
Hi Terry, definitely a valid option. I don't think that the B series manifold is great for performance which is something I should have mentioned and it would have taken a few to space the F series out. There is also the moment loading which comes into consideration when spacing it too far out. I was also pretty keen to get onto the TIG torch and give it a crack as well!
@@DesignedandBuilt Neither manifold is great for performance, you would have to fabricate a tuned length manifold where all outlet pipes are the same length (you do seem to have the space). Another solution we have be installing the B series manifold(correct way) and fab an extension with two T3 flanges, then you could get the turbo at 45 degrees (same as the F series) or horizontal. Wouldn't be concerned with loading. All that said: you have done a fine job fabbing a manifold. For your weld finishes Google "Tig walking the cup" technique.
Exhausted Metafile for the turbo they go on both ways you had one then you sed you bought one that was up mount when all you do is put it on upside down they go both ways lol
Did do a nice job on the one ya made though looks mean as but got a giggle thinking you had one payed for one that are the same thing lol but if you didn’t it looked that way lol
mate, I am impressed by the logical and factual reasoning, and by your humbleness, you are not afraid to ask for help or advise. Great role model for others attempting to do their own projects
So, I think I know why you only own a TIG, but please share why no MIG in your shed.
Thanks Rod, some kind words there ☺️. I like seeing the weld pool and where I am penetrating so have always just loved TIG, I’ve actually just picked up a MIG to do some of the heavier gauge stuff on the chassis but I’ll have to learn how to use it first! I guess by forcing myself to weld TIG only it has helped me get better at it and then when I have to do something like a manifold i don’t have to practice I can just get straight into it!
Great welding job mate, I like that your considering the other parts that might be affected by the heat, truely good engineering!
Thanks Marshall!
BTW> I love how you rebottled the used vinegar and stuck it back in the kitchen for the Msss to use. .'In that way you can get your daily dose of iron'.
credit where credits due, some nice work, worthy in my books, humble and common sense approach. great to see the next gen having a go,
Thank you, having a crack is what it’s all about!
RIP Chris from Fabricators Warehouse😔 Was such an amazing fabricator taken too soon!!!
Yeah we were super shocked by it, he was extremely knowledgeable and happy to help. RIP.
Great work man.
The Welding will be question mark for a few people who might watch this video.
But reality is ?
We can't be the best at everything we do.
At the end of the day, no one will be under the bonnet checking out your welds.
Big Thumbs Up.
Thanks for bringing us along to show your work in progress.
Peter.
Thanks mate, definitely not my field of expertise but really enjoy doing it and always willing to have a crack! Hopefully they hold!
I will! I'm going to look up where he lives and make it my job to be 'under bonnet weld inspector'. LOL
Awesome work fabricating the manifold mate, looks fantastic.
Someone else mentioned the skid factory and their useful information - couldn’t agree with that recommendation more. They built up a Stagea with a turbo V8 and did ceramic coated log manifolds, there’s a Q&A video on Mighty Car Mods’ other channel MCMTV2 where Al explains the science behind ceramic coated log manifolds and how keeping the heat in the exhaust and out through the turbo is good for quick spool / responsiveness etc. Well worth a look.
Keep up the awesome work mate, loving the build series!!
Cheers Geoff, I’ll take a look. Wish I had the info before I made this ha!
@@DesignedandBuilt ha ha, it’s a bit like that. Long story short is for your application, engine size and what you want the engine to behave like (responsive rather than outright horsepower) ceramic coated log manifolds would be the right decision. Keep up the great work mate 👍🏻
Looks good mate, she’ll keep 👌Go for studs for sure. Have a look into patroldocta for the airbox
Thanks mate, I think I will go studs! I actually mocked up a patroldocta air box out of cardboard and couldn’t make it fit on hot side and want to avoid crossover pipes so I’m thinking I’ll just go custom!
If you want to leak test it your half way there. Make up a gasket and bolt it back on the RHS you used to weld it with. Then make up a blanking plate where the turbo sits, make up a gasket to suit. Then drill a holes in the blanking plate and tap it to suit some fittings, tee in a gauge and a ball valve to dead head the system. Fill with compressed air and close off ball valve, see how quickly it leaks and use soapy water to find where leaks are.... otherwise it's a very nice job mate. Keep up the good work....👍👍👍
Cheer Chris, such a good idea. I'll get it done in the next few weeks!
Gees! That was a not-so-obvious but brilliant idea. Build everything on the RHS was already a stunning idea, but leak test it on the same jig is even better. I'm pinching that idea! LOL
Welds are decent enough man. Great job.
Can't be wasting that vinegar man I feel you there! 🤣
Mint manifold man, you should be hella stoked 👌🏾
Haha it’s a precious commodity. Cheers Michael!
Exhaust manifold came up great, keep up the good work 👍
Cheers Matt, I’m stoked with it!
Looks good Rich! It doesn't take long for turbo beanies to fall apart along the seams so go with the dimpled heat shield and mould it over the the turbo. Make sure you have a 10mm air gap between the heat shield and turbine housing, air's the best insulator. With mounting the turbo go with ARP stainless studs with flange headed pinch nuts. You want roll formed studs not the china shit on ebay. After a few heat cycles they will snap off when you go to retighten them. You can get good quality pinch nuts from a VW dealer for 3 bucks each
Cheers Mate, really appreciate the tip on studs! Definitely will do that. Yeah heat shield could be the go also!
Always impressed mate, keep it up!
Cheers mate!
This turned out great 👌 very happy to hear the hot side pipe will be redone, V1 was a little eghh. Keep it up man this is brilliant!
Cheers Aaron, yeah I wasn’t a fan of it either so glad I get to do it again!
Can’t wait to see the exhaust! I’m at the point personally, fabricate or pay excessive money, or buy cheap! I’ll take the fab option!!
I'm with you! Nothing more satisfying that making something yourself.
You can get 30° flanger spacers for turbo manifolds, but the custom one will work great also. Great work mate
I saw some that were adapter ie t3-t4 but I couldn’t find a spacer like that. Any ideas where to source them?
@@DesignedandBuilt it was years ago when i turbod my 1fz.fe i used one it was sitting on a shelf at at work shop i was buying parts from and the guy gave it to me.
Sure this is a tad late Richard but I took Luke Dale DPUK’s advice and fastens every manifold with Nordlock mechanical washers. Clever design and supposedly as good as it gets for heat cycling especially exhaust and turbo fixings
Cheers Damon I'll have a look into it
Ceramic coating on the turbo and dump pipe, good quality turbo blanket and heat wrap for the dump and she'll be right 🤙🏼
Turbo beanies are the go can touch them so they keep heat in more then ceramic coating
Cheers John, good info!
Good job on the manifold, should work great.
Did you check the flatness of the flanges with a straight edge/steel rule? You would usually still get some pull no matter how hard you torque it down. Without presetting (a nightmare to work out) the flange, you have done everything you can to keep it straight, so hopefully it will only need a quick touchup on a linisher to straighten it out
Thanks mate. No I haven’t yet, I’ll do it next time it’s off the car to leak test it. I’ll be stoked if it’s just a touch up on a linisher!
Have you looked at inconnel studs? It’s a high temperature stainless and as someone suggests maybe lock wires.
I haven’t but I definitely will, cheers Josh!
Great job Richard, well done mate. Those weld look pretty good to me buddy. Seeya Rob
Cheers Rob!
You have heard of exhaust wrap haven't you and you can get hotside covers that drop the temperature by a dramatic amount
I think that mamba " flange dump pipe " is going to make boost creep issues. Anytime we put a high flow cat or decent intercooler kit on a xr6t the std ford waste gate hole just can't keep up with flow and overboosting is a issue. Port the waste gate hole 100%
Cheers Troy that’s some good advice. Will definitely look at porting it!
Ceramic coating should seal up any pin holes.
Thanks Artie, probably worth testing it first though?!
Good work bud I mad the same style on my tb45t patrol I had problem with the manifold pulling away at each end after a few solid heat cycles I've made a low mount manifold for it now and I've made solid brackets from flange to flange so the turbo stays in the same spot and the pipes can move fingers crossed it wont warp the manifold again and deffently use studs not bolts being alloy it will strip the threads fitting and removing it
Hey Tyson, that’s a great idea. Fingers crossed for you! I am thinking bracing my manifold back to the block to take some of the load off. Yeah I think studs are the ticket!
I drilled my water feed an return ,banjo bolts ,cross holes ,out to the same size as the bottom hole ,,it seem to help with my turbo not getting hot ,,an no more creeking sounds ,after I turn the engine off..I dunno iff it was the rite thing to do ,,but it seems to have worked..cheers..
Cheers Stephen, good idea!
Loving the content and detail mate, great build series!
Thanks Kevin!
Diesel pump uk for washers that lock
Do you watch the skid factory on RUclips? Alot of great info on there that you might get something of value out of with the build mate. Nice work though keep up the vids 👍
Hi Endo, I’ve watched bits and pieces. Maybe I’ll go have a look at some more!
@@DesignedandBuilt they did some videos about making log manifolds and heat transfer real interesting stuff i think it'll help you out. I'm watching the build closely mate I'm jealous, was literally about to do the same thing until life slapped us about
Studs mate, seen a few B series ones back out so studs locked in and locking buts possible wire retained nuts
Awesome cheers Patrick, lockwire is a good idea!
Nice work mate great effort!
Bolt it back onto your square tube with gasket, make a blank plate for T3 flange add a test point and pressure test.
Cheers mate, that’s a ripping idea. I think I might just do that!
I wouldn’t worry about the heat from turbo to the rocker cover. But u welded a exhaust manifold already. I would bent a 1-2mm plate and bolt on to the exhaust manifold at turbine housing side to guard the heat alittle. If ur afraid of that heat reaching to the rocker cover seals.
Cheers Tanny, good idea!
Looks good mate, keep it up
Thanks Jurgen!
Get some nord lock washers for the exhaust stud nuts 👍
Cheers Kurt! Good suggestion
Welds look ok for "terible job" I've seen tig stitches that look worse than stick with slag and I've seen stick welds that look better than those instagram rainbow welds, so you're ok :D and the manifold will outflow the factory one!
Nice kit that. Pressure test it before you coat it.
Cheers Rhys, yeah very happy with the product, absolutely will do!
Studs and cone lock nuts 100%
you should be happy with yrself, u did a great job
Cheers mate!
Two thumbs up from me👍 AND enjoy the tasty salad with dinner 🤣
Haha cheers Petro, the missus loved it 😂
Looks mint
Cheers mate!
i would go with studs removing will not damage the head you are threading and unthreading on the stud not in the heads threads
Go ceramic coating. Blankets exposed to mud and water don't last long, assuming the Cruiser gets used as a 4WDrive.
Cheers Aaron, good insight. Hadn’t thought of that!
Hey mate quick question? Just a comment you made in 1 of your earlier videos I’m just about to start my build similar to yours and you mentioned it’s harder to get it engineered if the 80 chassis has had abs? Any chance you have any more info about that? Or any other hot tips? Cheers Matt
Hi Mate, best advice I could give you is engage an engineer early on and run a few things with them. Talk about your plan etc. It would be possible to get one engineered with ABS, just more checks have to be done.
Will do cheers!! Just picked up a good 45 and I’ve already got a couple of 80s to pick from but my best chassis happens to be the 1 with abs, super pumped to get it started!! Cheers for all the inspiration and ideas your putting out there on your channel I’ll definitely be picking your brain in the near future if that’s ok keep up the good work and videos 👍🏻👌🏻
Awesome to hear mate, can’t wait to see it! Always happy to help out where I can!
To test pin holes my mate uses water or oil
Awesome thanks Rigel!
Coat it and put a blanket but don’t cheap out use a dei one or something similar cheapy ones catch fire you will be pleasantly surprised with under hood temps
Thank you. Will do!
I think you were being paranoid about the warping. That metal is way to thick to be a problem with MIG. Especially if you went end-to-end. The contiguous weld would have been better, structurally. That's IMHO.
Hydrochloric acid would have that mill scale 100% removed in 10-15mins. Flapper discs etc are painful as they heat the mill scale and just move it around clogging up flapper or grinding discs. There are specific diamond coated wire wheels but these are ridiculously expensive. Acid will last a year no problems.
Hydrochloric acid will remove it quickly, but a definite risk for anyone working at home with any potential animal or child in the vicinity
Cheers for the tip, will keep that in mind if I need to do anything quickly!
Bolts, not studs. The thread ends in the studs are a weak point.
Nice one mate. I like it
Only one suggesting bolts on here! Cheers mate.
Bolts also have thread ends though.
@@MRMOPARMAN0426 yeh, meant to say stud with with no thread ends. Like all thread - www.justkampers.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/12/image/800x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/J/1/J10560-0_7.jpg
Should have just spaced out the cast iron manifold. You had the perfect 12mm steel spacer from your custom one.
Hi Terry, definitely a valid option. I don't think that the B series manifold is great for performance which is something I should have mentioned and it would have taken a few to space the F series out. There is also the moment loading which comes into consideration when spacing it too far out. I was also pretty keen to get onto the TIG torch and give it a crack as well!
@@DesignedandBuilt Neither manifold is great for performance, you would have to fabricate a tuned length manifold where all outlet pipes are the same length (you do seem to have the space). Another solution we have be installing the B series manifold(correct way) and fab an extension with two T3 flanges, then you could get the turbo at 45 degrees (same as the F series) or horizontal. Wouldn't be concerned with loading. All that said: you have done a fine job fabbing a manifold. For your weld finishes Google "Tig walking the cup" technique.
Good suggestion! I have tried it with limited success. I’ll have to give it another go!
Either manifold is fine for 500+rwkw. The small frame T3 turbine housings become an issue before the 'log'.
Good stuff bud... have a crack and share the love.. cheers
Cheers mate!
You can just flip the low mont it works both ways who ever sold you the top mont would be
Laughing 😂 so hard right now lol
Which mount are you talking about mate?
Exhausted Metafile for the turbo they go on both ways you had one then you sed you bought one that was up mount when all you do is put it on upside down they go both ways lol
Ahh yep sorry mate I tried both ways but probably didn’t explain it very well!
Did do a nice job on the one ya made though looks mean as but got a giggle thinking you had one payed for one that are the same thing lol but if you didn’t it looked that way lol
Vw jx