Hey Fitzee, getting those pipes ceramic coated, will really help with the heat retention for the turbo and protect the leads and plugs at the same time. Love your work, it's both motivational and therapeutic 👍
Scrolled down to type THAT _EXACT_ message! We have a firm here (UK) called Zircotech who do industrial strength ceramic coatings based on Nuke power-station methods. Recommended!
What I love about your channel is that you don’t know, and we are talking through a journey, which helps all. Thanks for a real look int how to build and fabricate! You are the only channel that shows the struggles and successes!
Getting all the hot stuff ceramic coated with the highest temp treatment possible is the only chance you have of not melting stuff. Great work mate from Australia.!!!
That description is so accurate, I'm working on my first turbo setup and I originally planned to flip stock manifolds on a gen 1 small block chevy and it turns out its not a good idea in my opinion. Then I bought some flowtech headers that go up and forward and I was excited about how easy it is to get to the spark plugs. Its been a few months now and I'm still trying to figure out a way to set up a turbo without rebuilding the whole truck around the headers. I should of just built some log manifolds. I thought a K30 was a four wheel drive chevy truck, lol.
Just watching the exhaust fab on the LS and as usual your skills are undeniable! I saw the exhaust being run further away from the engine allowing for plug access and better clearance all around plus more options for turbo connection down the road. Smooth transfer in the exhaust is important for flow..I don't need to tell YOU that. Anyway another great show and don't change your format please. i used to watch vise grip garage until he got HUGE with sponsors and $$$$. You seem to be a REAL REALITY show and I love watching ! Johnny
Hey Tony. Those logs came out really nice (as I expected from you). I wasn't going to re-install the heater when I restored my 1963 Fairlane. Glad I did. It's nice to have heat on the way home from those end of the season cruise nights here in Detroit. Great job buddy. Thanks for posting.
The problems with migs is that the longer you try to do a bead the hotter the weld seems to get with smaller cheaper machines, and as you said, it burns through. That's why I prefer, welding with stick when welding pipe. As you lay the bead down it doesn't continue to heat up and burn through the Pipe.
Hi Fitzee and Peanut. Thanks for another lesson from your garage laboratory on exhaust manifolds. Do not forget your gaskets for fit up and you might have to wrap your plug wire ends with heavy duty aluminum foil to reflect the heat. I want to know how hot and cherry those log manifolds get. Need to follow along the turbo and inter-cooler radiator design and boost ideas. Never messed with that technology.
I got myself the welding goggles from the last video, it should help a lot when I tack my brackets under truck frames at work. I always struggle with my helmet caught in all the junk in truck frames. Thanks Tony and the viewer who sent them to you.
Yep! I did the same things - except that I made my turbo headers using stainless pipe bends. It was an exercise to see if I could actually do it. The headers came out ok and I have plug access and wire clearance. I can still use the factory air conditioning system (2001 Chev S10). The biggest issue was pieces moving around from the welding heat.
Hi Tony. Back in early days of hot rodding, you had to make parts if you couldn't buy them. The manifolds remind me of the long side manifolds that you would see in pictures of the old Model A style hot rods from the 50's. Pretty unlikely that you could find headers for an LS powered, turbo charged, Toyota Corolla! Yours look great. Thanks for the video!
With the limited space under the hood you've got an opportunity to build a rear turbo system. It kills temperatures around the engine, it's a little more labor but the systems work great
Tony thank you for the video, It gives me knowledge and ideas to pull something like this off on my own.. This is alot cleaner and nicer than any Chinese stuff I have seen available...
Hey Tony. Awesome work dude. I've been watching for awhile now. I especially like old pickups. Like Patches. Even if they were once a sedan. Very old school cool!!
Beautiful description of working through the design process and solutions for problems encountered along the way to complete your vision for your headers.
I done many water jacketed exhaust manifolds for marine applications, on engine that not covered by the marine market, the most impirtant difference it that I used 7018 electrodes to weld them because I needed water tightness in all welds. very good video.
I liked the name Crusty, it really suited the character of the car, but it's starting to look very clean, might need to be renamed lol Another great video 👍
Tips were great. Them lig headers look amazing tony. And you made it look so eazy if i ever go to a ls swap thanks for the video can wait for more hot and cold side maybe also think about some wrap on the header to protect from the heat alittle on the wires
fitzee you need either a turbo with left side facing outlet for the intercooler as in a mirror image turbo or put the turbo on the drivers side for clearance on the cold side or put the turbo on an angle not just straight cheers from down under
Nice job tony. I did the same thing years ago. Sched 20 would have being strong enough and saved you half the weight. Still looks great and will function fine just a little heavy
I was thinking you could've cut two of those elbows into 10 pieces and radiused the flange side (for sure) and the log entrance for better flow. It just would have been triple the welding and cutting... I'm sure this'll be fine though. Intake is where you need your flow the most and you'll cram plenty of that in with plenty of pressure to spool up that turbo.
SCENERIO: Hey, I'm Fitzee, what say I go to the hardware store and buy some metal, nuts and bolts and fashion myself a transmission. You're the best, man!
Those turned out really nice. I'll have to make a set like that for my Rambler. It has a 350 in it and a real mess of headers. Can't get a couple plugs out.
The log manifolds are an interesting concept and solved all your problems. I wonder what the horsepower would be compared to a stock manifold and headers (extractors as we call them here in Australia). Did you port the insides of the pipes at all the joints? This can aid a smooth gas flow.
Haven't ported them yet. As for hp. Seems a turbo engine don't be concerned with flowing headers. Making 1200 plus hp from stock manifolds is more then I need to worry about
Great work and very informative as always! For what it is worth there is a more foolproof way to make those coping cuts to fit one pipe butt end into another round section. Instead of trying to cut out the half circle for the mating surface in the same direction as the mating pipe, make two 45 degree straight cuts (giving an included angle of 90) perpendicular to the mating pipe. The laws of geometry give you a perfect rounded cope.
Agree with many, your usual Unusual, Successful solution(s). Thicker pipe - exactly like factory Cast Headers. For the heat, consider wrapping some Fiberglass header tape to protect wires/coils. The motorcycle guys have been using for years. And, please do not grind those beautiful stacks of Dimes welds. Your signature.
I think you could have made 2 identical left side logs with the right side pointing toward the firewall with a 180 fitting on the end of it to come back to the turbo flange, hard to tell looking at the video, might help the flow out of the head better and give you just a little more plug wire room.
I think that is a great choice, looks great!! My only suggestion is to run as large of exhaust post turbo as you can. In the future you can always look at backpressure vs boost pressure to see when the hot side becomes an issue if it ever does. Everyone hears/wants 1Khp but most have no idea what 600hp is in a 3Klb hot rod!
As far as the turbo goes and clearance for turning at 120 mph if the turbo is up to full temp it will self clearance on that tire might be a slight bit smoke the first time put after that will be golden
Pretty sure For turbos Those log manifolds are better than alot of tube headers as its under pressure and the amount of pressure/volume/flow is the only important thing really as the pressure dosnt magical change infront of one cylinder unless is N/A with large tubes and even then is hars, as the exhaust pulse comes out it just raises total pressure
Excellent and interesting work, as always. Can't you put a limiter on your steering rack? Thus you'll minimize any chance of tire rubbing on your turbo setup. Of course, you'll also increase the turning radius of the car, which might not be desirable.
You can clock the intake and exhaust housings on that turbo to any position. If you turn the exhaust housing to where it is above the frame it will make it easier to do the pipes
I clocked it in a number of locations and where it is too it is the best location. Move it one way or the other from. Where it's too. One will make getting to the T4 flange with pipe hard. The other way it will be very close to the tire
@@fitzeesfabrications I don’t believe we are on the same page here. You can loosen the bolts that hold the exhaust housing to the turbo center cartridge and spin the T4 flange to any position you want it while keeping the center in place. If you rotate just the loosened exhaust housing so that the T4 is above the frame then the tire bump will no longer be an issue. There is no right or wrong way to do this I just wanted to make sure you know that if you loosen the bolts that hold the exhaust and intake housings on the turbo cartridge that they can be turned to any position desired.
@@williambasinger5859 that what I did. The oil feed is on top. I had to clock both sides of the turbo. What you mean above the frame? You mean rotate it a full 180 So the t4 flange is facing into the center and up?
Hmmm.... You could always mount the turbo under the glove box in its own little bump out....OR: You could run smaller twin turbos...they spool up faster.
Hey Fitzee, getting those pipes ceramic coated, will really help with the heat retention for the turbo and protect the leads and plugs at the same time. Love your work, it's both motivational and therapeutic 👍
Scrolled down to type THAT _EXACT_ message! We have a firm here (UK) called Zircotech who do industrial strength ceramic coatings based on Nuke power-station methods. Recommended!
The template idea to mark the tubing notches is brilliant! The logs turned out beautifully!
What I love about your channel is that you don’t know, and we are talking through a journey, which helps all. Thanks for a real look int how to build and fabricate! You are the only channel that shows the struggles and successes!
Pole barn garage
The log manifolds came out super! Your skill and creative shows!!!
The one thing that I've learned is patience of a saint is the best way to get it done! You got it and some!
Getting all the hot stuff ceramic coated with the highest temp treatment possible is the only chance you have of not melting stuff. Great work mate from Australia.!!!
Master Fritz is making header fabrication easy. I'm saving all my cardboard now.
Nice work, glad to see you using heavy steel up to the task. They will outlast headers by 5 times.
That description is so accurate, I'm working on my first turbo setup and I originally planned to flip stock manifolds on a gen 1 small block chevy and it turns out its not a good idea in my opinion. Then I bought some flowtech headers that go up and forward and I was excited about how easy it is to get to the spark plugs. Its been a few months now and I'm still trying to figure out a way to set up a turbo without rebuilding the whole truck around the headers. I should of just built some log manifolds. I thought a K30 was a four wheel drive chevy truck, lol.
Just watching the exhaust fab on the LS and as usual your skills are undeniable! I saw the exhaust being run further away from the engine allowing for plug access and better clearance all around plus more options for turbo connection down the road. Smooth transfer in the exhaust is important for flow..I don't need to tell YOU that. Anyway another great show and don't change your format please. i used to watch vise grip garage until he got HUGE with sponsors and $$$$. You seem to be a REAL REALITY show and I love watching ! Johnny
Hey Tony. Those logs came out really nice (as I expected from you). I wasn't going to re-install the heater when I restored my 1963 Fairlane. Glad I did. It's nice to have heat on the way home from those end of the season cruise nights here in Detroit. Great job buddy. Thanks for posting.
Tony Mint, Mint, Mint. Lord I wish I lived closer, I could learn alot. Stay safe friend.
The problems with migs is that the longer you try to do a bead the hotter the weld seems to get with smaller cheaper machines, and as you said, it burns through. That's why I prefer, welding with stick when welding pipe. As you lay the bead down it doesn't continue to heat up and burn through the Pipe.
Hi Fitzee and Peanut.
Thanks for another lesson from your garage laboratory on exhaust manifolds. Do not forget your gaskets for fit up and you might have to wrap your plug wire ends with heavy duty aluminum foil to reflect the heat.
I want to know how hot and cherry those log manifolds get.
Need to follow along the turbo and inter-cooler radiator design and boost ideas. Never messed with that technology.
As usual great job, I found myself wising the clip was longer, thanks for bring us along again!
BEAUTIFUL ! ! Crusty originally ~98 HP, in the future 1,000+ HP. WHOA !
Awesome work Fitzee, love all the tips and tricks you share!
Fantastic video! I love all of the problem solving. I always learn watching your videos.
The tips are great and those manifolds are a thing of beauty. You made all the sense in the world doing it that way.
Beautiful job! Those log headers are really heavy duty!
Best Presentation! RUclips should give you an award not just cash. Best looking headers I've ever seen.
I got myself the welding goggles from the last video, it should help a lot when I tack my brackets under truck frames at work. I always struggle with my helmet caught in all the junk in truck frames.
Thanks Tony and the viewer who sent them to you.
Yep! I did the same things - except that I made my turbo headers using stainless pipe bends. It was an exercise to see if I could actually do it. The headers came out ok and I have plug access and wire clearance. I can still use the factory air conditioning system (2001 Chev S10). The biggest issue was pieces moving around from the welding heat.
Hi Tony. Back in early days of hot rodding, you had to make parts if you couldn't buy them. The manifolds remind me of the long side manifolds that you would see in pictures of the old Model A style hot rods from the 50's. Pretty unlikely that you could find headers for an LS powered, turbo charged, Toyota Corolla! Yours look great. Thanks for the video!
You can even wrap the pipes with heat resistant exhaust wrap so your wires stay cool Tony.
Oh and another thing. Great job on the headers. That is some snazzy welding.
With the limited space under the hood you've got an opportunity to build a rear turbo system. It kills temperatures around the engine, it's a little more labor but the systems work great
Tony thank you for the video, It gives me knowledge and ideas to pull something like this off on my own.. This is alot cleaner and nicer than any Chinese stuff I have seen available...
Fantastic work mate, there is no problem you can't fix . Nothing short of genius .
Hey Tony. Awesome work dude. I've been watching for awhile now. I especially like old pickups. Like Patches. Even if they were once a sedan. Very old school cool!!
Thank you so much for your videos! You got a big mention a few back on @AllisonCustoms for the cut & butt technique.
Those turned out quite nice Tony.
Sch.40, those are lifetime headers, nice work Tony
Beautiful description of working through the design process and solutions for problems encountered along the way to complete your vision for your headers.
I done many water jacketed exhaust manifolds for marine applications, on engine that not covered by the marine market, the most impirtant difference it that I used 7018 electrodes to weld them because I needed water tightness in all welds.
very good video.
I like your new intro music. Sounds good. Headers turned out real good. Jack.
Not only a master in his work but also a master at visual explanation/description
You never cease to amaze. Ingenuity is above and beyond. The stops were good. I can hardly wait to hear it run
The exhaust gas speed going into the turbo is going to be so fast lower down the rev range than with the other manifolds 👍👍👍👍
I liked the name Crusty, it really suited the character of the car, but it's starting to look very clean, might need to be renamed lol
Another great video 👍
Tips were great. Them lig headers look amazing tony. And you made it look so eazy if i ever go to a ls swap thanks for the video can wait for more hot and cold side maybe also think about some wrap on the header to protect from the heat alittle on the wires
fitzee you need either a turbo with left side facing outlet for the intercooler as in a mirror image turbo or put the turbo on the drivers side for clearance on the cold side or put the turbo on an angle not just straight cheers from down under
Looks great thank you ,Very easy to follow along with you .Again thank you sir Tony very well done
That was a job...looks better than I thought it would.
Was wondering how you were going to cut those holes. Brilliant.
Peanut on a break, catching up with some shut-eye. Must be hard work checking your work all the time!
You’re a true master, Tony!
Nice job tony. I did the same thing years ago. Sched 20 would have being strong enough and saved you half the weight. Still looks great and will function fine just a little heavy
I was thinking you could've cut two of those elbows into 10 pieces and radiused the flange side (for sure) and the log entrance for better flow. It just would have been triple the welding and cutting... I'm sure this'll be fine though. Intake is where you need your flow the most and you'll cram plenty of that in with plenty of pressure to spool up that turbo.
SCENERIO: Hey, I'm Fitzee, what say I go to the hardware store and buy some metal, nuts and bolts and fashion myself a transmission. You're the best, man!
Those turned out really nice. I'll have to make a set like that for my Rambler.
It has a 350 in it and a real mess of headers. Can't get a couple plugs out.
Hey Tony, great video as always. I look forward to seeing what your doing next.
Thanks for showing log headers! I want to build a set for my project. Never seen it done before. Mike c
Wow, beautiful job, Mr. Fitzee!
That was very cool to watch those being built
23:14 did you say you were going to make a template?..........
24:13 you did!....you did make a template!...and with simple tools as well!......
Thanks!
WOW, That is cool. Exellent work on that Fitzee. From South Africa.
Thanks Tony I appreciate your work, you never cease to amaze me
Good job Tony. Getting closer.
Those manifolds will last 100 years. Looks like schedule 80 pipe,at least the 2 1/2" pipe does. Very stout.👍🇨🇦
Great job on the headers Fitzee , kinda reminds me of the old log style ones used on a flat head...
Nice job fitzee, they look great. Did this recently… I could only find stainless elbows. It wasn’t fun!
Very neat and professional, nice job!
Phenomenal video!!
Thoroughly enjoyed it!👌👌👌
Masterful work Tony 😎
We’ll done Fitzee! You make it look so easy.
The tips were good 👍
Thank you so much.
Tony you do great work , a big thumbs up those logs manifolds will work perfect.
Great looking pipes !! Crusty is just going to be a ripper !!!!
Great vid as per usual, the exhausts turned out brilliant! Looking forward to the next installment. Roll on crusty !
they look awesome great job
The log manifolds are an interesting concept and solved all your problems. I wonder what the horsepower would be compared to a stock manifold and headers (extractors as we call them here in Australia). Did you port the insides of the pipes at all the joints? This can aid a smooth gas flow.
Haven't ported them yet. As for hp. Seems a turbo engine don't be concerned with flowing headers. Making 1200 plus hp from stock manifolds is more then I need to worry about
Great work and very informative as always! For what it is worth there is a more foolproof way to make those coping cuts to fit one pipe butt end into another round section. Instead of trying to cut out the half circle for the mating surface in the same direction as the mating pipe, make two 45 degree straight cuts (giving an included angle of 90) perpendicular to the mating pipe. The laws of geometry give you a perfect rounded cope.
Agree with many, your usual Unusual, Successful solution(s). Thicker pipe - exactly like factory Cast Headers. For the heat, consider wrapping some Fiberglass header tape to protect wires/coils. The motorcycle guys have been using for years. And, please do not grind those beautiful stacks of Dimes welds. Your signature.
I think you could have made 2 identical left side logs with the right side pointing toward the firewall with a 180 fitting on the end of it to come back to the turbo flange, hard to tell looking at the video, might help the flow out of the head better and give you just a little more plug wire room.
Killer job Tony!
FITZEE, DID YOU WELD WITH REGULAR CARBON STEEL MIG WIRE OR WAS IT STAINLESS STEEL MIG WIRE ? SORRY FOR ALL CAPS, KEYBOARD IS STUCK IN CAPS.
Regular 023 wire
Loving the progress Tony. Another awesome video with great tips.
Thanks Tony, another great video, it's given me some ideas what to do with a friends Plymouth Fury.
Outstanding job Tony Very Nice job
Thanks
I think that is a great choice, looks great!! My only suggestion is to run as large of exhaust post turbo as you can. In the future you can always look at backpressure vs boost pressure to see when the hot side becomes an issue if it ever does. Everyone hears/wants 1Khp but most have no idea what 600hp is in a 3Klb hot rod!
That is my plan. Also not to have too many bends in them helps as well
Great job! They turned out very nice. They'll work out better than those big headers, the exhaust velocity will spool the turbo faster.
Awsome job great looking headers
I need to make some headers for my corvair like that
Thanks Fitzee!
As far as the turbo goes and clearance for turning at 120 mph if the turbo is up to full temp it will self clearance on that tire might be a slight bit smoke the first time put after that will be golden
Pretty sure For turbos Those log manifolds are better than alot of tube headers as its under pressure and the amount of pressure/volume/flow is the only important thing really as the pressure dosnt magical change infront of one cylinder unless is N/A with large tubes and even then is hars, as the exhaust pulse comes out it just raises total pressure
great work Tony, dig this concept
Cool work! I was wondering if would help if were to have a spare used head to mount the flange to for welding the unit together help control warping?
Should’ve waiting to comment until the end. Duh!
Looks beautiful! I love how you cut out your cardboard template with a grinder 😂
what a nice design Tony, came out perfect, not counting for a fraction price of a manifold , and this heavy gauge pipe will last for ever ... 👍👍
Hell of nice job on them
Excellent and interesting work, as always. Can't you put a limiter on your steering rack? Thus you'll minimize any chance of tire rubbing on your turbo setup. Of course, you'll also increase the turning radius of the car, which might not be desirable.
Looks great. Love the video.
Drive-by comment: Nicely done sir, nicely done.
I can’t wait too hear this run!
Cool log headers. I learned something new.
You can clock the intake and exhaust housings on that turbo to any position. If you turn the exhaust housing to where it is above the frame it will make it easier to do the pipes
I clocked it in a number of locations and where it is too it is the best location. Move it one way or the other from. Where it's too. One will make getting to the T4 flange with pipe hard. The other way it will be very close to the tire
@@fitzeesfabrications I don’t believe we are on the same page here. You can loosen the bolts that hold the exhaust housing to the turbo center cartridge and spin the T4 flange to any position you want it while keeping the center in place. If you rotate just the loosened exhaust housing so that the T4 is above the frame then the tire bump will no longer be an issue. There is no right or wrong way to do this I just wanted to make sure you know that if you loosen the bolts that hold the exhaust and intake housings on the turbo cartridge that they can be turned to any position desired.
@@williambasinger5859 that what I did. The oil feed is on top. I had to clock both sides of the turbo. What you mean above the frame? You mean rotate it a full 180 So the t4 flange is facing into the center and up?
Hmmm....
You could always mount the turbo under the glove box in its own little bump out....OR:
You could run smaller twin turbos...they spool up faster.