separate outlet alone does not help much ,you also need separate circuit breaker .if you only change the CB ,you are the risk of causing wires to overheat and possible fire hazard.
100% Correct!!! That is why you should only have a qualified person do electrical at this level in your house. No motion platform is worth burning your house down. The guy that did ours ran dedicated orange wire from that outlet (to the switch) then to new dedicated 20amp circuit breakers. I think that wire was 10 gauge... which he thought might be overkill but I wanted to lean toward over cautious... again didn't want to burn the house down, and so far so good (knock on wood). Thanks for the comment, I'll pin it because this is an important point.
This has been really helpful! I just ordered one and I want to make sure I use the lead time to get all the other stuff I'll need squared away. Thanks for the great presentation!
I'm glad it helped... Make sure you watch this one too if you haven't already. ruclips.net/video/rUnc_0pGbzg/видео.html It covers our mods once we got the SFU Gearboxes, which I assume you will also have. Some of theses mods you won't need, but I would recommend getting the cone spacers just to give yourself a little extra room between the arms and the frame. Good Luck and thanks for the comment!
Ya I wanted that too before I bought one. Best I can tell you is it is like riding something at a themepark only maybe not quite as extreme. If you like those kind of rides, you will probably like this as well. I have zero buyers remorse. Thanks for the view and the comment.
Hi Adam, you are not the first to do that for sure. I think the majority of DOF owners have run into that issue. The good news is, the washers are big enough that you can kind of cover up your mistake with them :). Thanks for the comment and the view!
I think what might help is the quantity needed when purchasing new bolts. I'm trying to prepare for my delivery and would like to have everything in place and ready to mod. But regardless, for H6 owners this really is an awesome video. Nicely done. (Unless, of course, there's access to the documentation that has the count of items. :/)
Well you are in luck, if you go to my SFU Modification video, I talk about the key bolts you need but here is a copy of the list: M8-1.25 x 110mm (10mm to 120mm Available) Socket Head Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, 12.9 Alloy Steel, Full Thread, Black Oxide, 5 PCS (NEED TOTAL OF 3 BOLTS): amzn.to/3X4jx3q M8 8MM Male to M6 6MM Female - Threaded REDUCERS 5 x Thread ADAPTERS (NEED TOTAL OF 3 ADAPTERS): amzn.to/3i9AdYp Temp Stickers for each motor (to visually make sure each one is not overheating... not really necessary but I wanted to add it): amzn.to/35gfdbx (IMPORTANT: If ordering bolts or washers, please confirm proper measurements after clicking link. if Amazon is out of stock it may substitute a different size without noting the difference) NON-AMAZON LINKS M10 x 80mm Carbon Steel Full Threaded Hexagon Socket Cap Head Screws Bolts 5pcs (These are what I ordered, you may look for 90mm instead) NEED 6 TOTAL PIECES (2 packs of 5): www.harfington.com/products/p... EIBACH END LINK SPACER (M10 Spacer 10mm) NEED 12 PIECES TOTAL (3 packs of 4): eibach.com/us/i-12116-eibach-... you Steinjager Cone Style Rod End Spacers 5/16 Bore 4 Pack (NEED 6 PIECES TOTAL - 2 packs of 4): www.ebay.com/itm/234813416374... This is obviously for the SFU Upgrade with the Cone Spacers added to it. I put how many you need in parenthesis. For the other bolts, we just bought a dozen or so of the longer M8s and then we used the ones that came with it and just used the appropriate length for the application. So in other words, when it say called for a 60mm long, we just used the 70mm long that came with the unit. I hope that makes sense? Anyway, you will likely find yourself needing to get some extras so just plan on that. I can't give you an exact count because the DOF Units have changed since I got mine with different bases and stuff so my inventory wouldn't be accurate anymore, but here is the current build guide for the H/P6 so maybe you can get some info from it ( dofreality.com/instructionsHP6.pdf ) Hope that helps and good luck.
Wow! That has to be the finest build of a full motion simulator, paying attention to details like incorporating fender washers, neoprene material, being careful not to over tighten bolts, painting the washers to match the steel, trimming the washers, and so on. So nice to see when enthusiasts go over and beyond what the original setup came with. The larger seat mounted on slides look perfect! Great tips, like marking the nuts with a line to help notice fasteners that may have become loose. The temperature strips on the motors are a great idea. Mark, seeing how you had the two DOF Reality motor controllers on independent 20a circuits, did you put the computer on yet another 20a circuit? Or was the computer okay on one of the motor controller's 20a circuits? The wiring (cable management) looks first class. Again, that is truly paying attention to detail. The bracket work? Definitely thumbs up! The only thing I see wrong is that your DOF Reality motion platform is built, and the one I have is still in the box! Great job Mark. Looking forward to the upcoming videos. Aloha!
Thank you my friend, always appreciate when people notice all the "little things" as well. Very rewarding to read your comments! I actually have the computer plugged into an outlet on the other side of the room. Not because I was worried about overloading but because that is where the computer is. So just to clarify, on my build the ONLY thing plugged into each 20amp breaker is the DOF Reality Control box... Also because they are on the switch and I wouldn't want to have it on to run the computer when the H6 isn't in operation. You should always have the H6 off when not in use so it doesn't sit there and run it's "micro adjustment" routine continually and overheat the motors.
Man I tell you by biggest concern was all the people talking about the controls being wiggly... this thing is ROCK SOLID with that extra support we put in for the HOTAS! I'm very proud of that mod!
Thanks Chad, appreciate the view and complement. Planning Part 4 with the peripherals soon, we did A LOT of customizing with those parts so come back and check out that episode in the near future.
Did you get the standard butt kicker adapter post from dofreality for your setup, i think i see a shot of it briefly but cant tell. I did the standard one, i feel the pipe is too narrow (even though i thought they corrected that), so ill add material to it, but i'm confused as to where to mount it. Seems the only spot that might work is up towards the front underside of the chair on the front of the spine material in the middle.
Hi Sky, yes I just got the DOF adapter and you are correct, it was a little loose. We added just a little of the Neoprene Rubber to it to make it tight and seems to work fine. Mounted it about the middle with the Buttkicker 2 pointed forward. I like this setup because I can reach down from the seat and feel how hot the Buttkicker is getting. You can see the installation here ruclips.net/video/zlGQ3N_1LAg/видео.html You can see the rubber at the front of the post if you look closely. Thanks for watching and good luck.
Where did you end up finding the M8-1.25 x 100mm Socket Head Cap Screws, 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel, Allen Socket Drive, Black Oxide Finish screws? Checking lowes for instance they dont seem to have that length
We couldn't find those locally either. Ordered a lot of them from Amazon, the links are in the description above. I don't think they have the M8-1.24 x 100mm anymore so you might have to just do a search on the internet for another vendor. Good hunting!
Thanks John, we just got some Round Steel Tubing from the local hardware store and custom cut them to fit. It was 1/2 inch tube, 3 foot length. I'd recommend you take one of your M10 bolts however because they didn't all fit in 1/2" tubes I'd assume due to manufacturing differences or damage from shipping. Appreciate you watching our content.
Curious, for the larger washers, what tool did you use to cut them? Also how did you make the sleeves for inside the frame, custom cut part of some kind?
Hi Sky, we used a cut off wheel, but a die grinder with a cutting attachment would probably work too. Also used Vice Grips to hold while cutting. Thanks for the question.
@@GYGOtv I'll have to look into those or maybe i wont worry about it. I think i have a band saw that could work, if the right type of blade installed, unsure. Appreciate that you took time to respond btw, have a great day.
@@GYGOtv One other question, would it be just as good to use a 1" washer instead of 1.5" in the case of the 1.5's and then not needing to cut them? Or are they less effective on distributing the load
@@markm75 No problem Sky, I always try to reply so feel free to ask anything else. Yes we just used the tool we had, didn't go out and buy anything special for the cuts. Hope that helps.
@@markm75 I think "technically" they are less effective... but a 1 inch washer is more effective than not using one. Really the big factor is NOT over-tightening the bolts and bending the metal, so I think caution mixed with a 1 inch washer would be fine. I think that is a great idea if you don't want to mess with cutting the larger washers. Good luck, let us know how it goes, and thanks for watching!
Im curious, with the h6, how much of a footprint on the floor do you need, if you take into account shifting forward and back or side to side. I was going to try to put this in my smallish office area, i know there is the spec they list, but i'm assuming there is some extension to that at times?
Mine is in a 5 foot by 6 foot cubby in my office and it has room around it still. I'd say the 4x5 spec listed on the DOF Reality website is probably accurate. That is one of the great things about these units... very small footprint compared to other motion platforms! Thanks for the question.
@@markm75 Ya I just did a full surge and sway and it is 6 ft front to back on the surge movement and 5 ft should be enough side to side. The tilt would be inside that envelope.
@@GYGOtv I guess i should factor in the controllers or whatever the proper term is, appears they take up a chunk of space unless i put them on a shelf too i suppose, is that accurate? And ty for this video, its a good level of detail on the build process not seen elsewhere.
Thanks for the question DigitalEngine, well if that is something you want, I'll get right on it! Actually your timing is perfect, I really wanted to get the Varjo Aero series out of the way and then planned the Part 4 DOF segment next. I'm putting together the outline right now so is there anything specific that you are interested in? If so I can try to include it if it makes sense. Thanks for watching!
@@GYGOtv Thanks GYGO, 1) Interested in how you set up the Lighthouse tracking system, both hardware and software? 2) The 6DOF motion hardware/software interface with the sim app, especially DCS World, how is it setup, and how does it interface? Pros, cons and tips. 3) Noticed in your first Reality H6 video, the movements seemed to be abrupt and jerky or hard. Does the software dampen this out as applicable to the simulation and situation of the moment? 4) What is the buttkicker exactly, and how does it interface with the simulation, and how does it improve the experience? 5) Did you install the SRS Shake Kit or similar product? Thanks for the really detailed videos you are creating!
@@digitalengine7406 Nice lists of questions. Some of these I can easily answer now. 1. Setting up the lighthouses can be seen in this video ( ruclips.net/video/l61-oqyZZL8/видео.html ), watch from 20 min 21 sec to about 23 min 30 sec to see the process. It's pretty easy, just mount them and plug them in. Then the computer will see them when you do Steam's room setup. You would mount them caddy-corner from each other, up high so nobody can walk in front of them. 2. The Motion Hardware/software could be it's own topic and video, so I may have to do a Part 5 after we talk about peripherals, and just going into the SRS Tuning Software, but it is amazing and you can adjust a ton. So hopefully you don't mind waiting just a little longer for that one. 3. The motion can be jerky or pretty smooth depending on the input from the telemetry and how you have the SRS software setup. You do get a little gear motion that you can slightly feel, but nothing that ruins the experience. Watch some of my flight videos and you should see it do both. You can also dampen it out as much as you like with the SRS software. 4. & 5. The Buttkicker is basically the same thing as the SRS Shake Kit. They are transducers that vibrate based on the input. The buttkicker just takes the game sound and I believe the SRS uses actual telemetry from games if they have it. I have a single Buttkicker on the bottom of the rig vs the SRS which sit on the seat itself. Some setups even use multiple transducers down by the pedals, on the sides of the rig and on the seat. I see it more in the Sim Racing world but they are a really cool effect that helps add the vibrations you would feel from an actual engine, etc. They all have pros and cons, and there are other options as well so you can research transducers for simulators and look into what you think would be right for you. I will talk more about the buttkicker in the Part 4 video. Hope that answers some of your questions right away, and stay tuned for the Part 4 video hopefully in a week or 2.
@@GYGOtv On the Lighthouse tracking system setup question, more specifically, how do you set up the tracking system in regards to canceling out the movements of the motion rig? I have the original Vive, so I'm versed on setting up the lighthouses for room scale or my office chair space. However, with the lighthouses stationary, and the users actual position moving with the platform, but the users position not moving in relation to the virtual cockpit, how is this accomplished.? Looking forward to your next video(s) on your system!
@@digitalengine7406 O' well that is a whole different question. So first thing is you may not need or want motion cancelling. I've gone back and forth on that. On one hand, it is so cool when I land on a carrier to visually get thrown into the dashboard when I catch the wire. Also, for racing I think it adds to the feeling of being jostled around the car as you drive. But there are times like when I'm at full afterburner where I feel like I'm almost inside the seat or just too far away from the dashboard. I would recommend trying the experience without motion compensation and see if you like it that way before investing in motion compensation. So if you do decide you want motion compensation, there are 2 different ways to achieve this. Now I'm no expert because I haven't gone full bore with it... but I have looked into it. The first way which is what you would likely use with lighthouse tracking is to get an additional vive tracker or controller. You then mount that to the seat or somewhere close to where you head sits. You can add a plugin called OpenVR to Steam VR, and that software then allows you use that tracker's data to cancel out the motion. There is a fantastic tutorial here if you want more info, ruclips.net/video/1MqGO46xdtI/видео.html. The other method is through the Sim Racing Software program and it involves using a sensor in place of a tracker. It is mainly for WMR systems, but I'm hoping it will work with the Aero because it is a much cleaner installation in my opinion. I haven't looked deeply into it yet, but when I do I will probably make a video about it if it works. You can find out more info about this method here: www.simracingstudio.com/post/motion-compensation Hope that helps answer your question, sorry I'm not more of an authority on it, but I currently don't feel like I need it in my sims. That may change in the future however. :)
Hi Tig, I'm not really sure you can "balance" a 6 Series, I've asked in the forums and groups and nobody has really given me a good answer yet... Maybe someone will comment here. Balancing is really important on the 3 Series because the platform pivots on a central U-joint. The 6 Series has multiple arms attached that you really can't find the balance of it. The only real way I've figured to "balance" my unit is just to gauge the temps of the motors and see if any are getting more hot than others. Anyone else out there have a solution or recommendation for balancing the 6 Series platforms?
Thank for the great content, subscribed! Maybe I'll buy a H6 too for my favorite flight sim IL-2 only. It would be great if you could test IL-2 BoS to see how it behaves in a dogfight and take off/landing. There is a profile for that game but I can't risk a bad implementation for the price tag of the H6.
Thanks for the SUB!!! I'll do my best to keep good content coming your way. As for IL-2... give me a bit to get it all setup and configured correctly and then I'll do a "Mark Plays" for you. I haven't tried it yet BUT from what I've read and seen, it is one of the best motion experiences out there. From what I hear it even has turbulence, etc. so keep your fingers crossed... Either way I'll find out for you.
@@GYGOtv Me and the whole IL-2 community would appreciate that! Thanks so much and take your time. There's rarely any information or video about IL-2 and a dof reality rig out there. But your enthusiasm hooked me up anyways and I'll buy it right away if the combination convinces you!
@@montanazh Got your requested video done this weekend. I hope you find it useful. If you could do me a favor and post a link to the video to any IL2 Forums or Groups that you think would benefit from it, I'd appreciate it. Let me know what you think and Enjoy! ruclips.net/video/PNGR5F7l9HI/видео.html
Appreciate the question Eric, we just got some Round Steel Tubing from the local hardware store and custom cut them to fit. It was 1/2 inch tube, 3 foot length. I'd recommend you take one of your M10 bolts however because they didn't all fit in 1/2" tubes I'd assume due to manufacturing differences or damage from shipping. We used 6, one for each M10 bolt.
@@esparks89129 Not sure the exact size because they are installed in the rig. We actually custom fit each one to within probably 1mm or so of the space in the framework. Your gap might vary depending on how tight you originally cranked down on the bolts. Just measure them out and they should be long enough to slide down where the holes are and stay put but not so long that they push the walls of the metal outward (unless you have deformed it by overtightening previously). Hope that helps.
Ahh, yes it was about time for someone to make this comment again. Appreciate you watching thomgizziz, I've responded to this observation several times in the past. Feel free to look through the past comments if you want to know why I chose that wheel, obviously you are welcome to your opinion but I really don't care what you think about my wheel.
separate outlet alone does not help much ,you also need separate circuit breaker .if you only change the CB ,you are the risk of causing wires to overheat and possible fire hazard.
100% Correct!!! That is why you should only have a qualified person do electrical at this level in your house. No motion platform is worth burning your house down. The guy that did ours ran dedicated orange wire from that outlet (to the switch) then to new dedicated 20amp circuit breakers. I think that wire was 10 gauge... which he thought might be overkill but I wanted to lean toward over cautious... again didn't want to burn the house down, and so far so good (knock on wood). Thanks for the comment, I'll pin it because this is an important point.
Some people just have no comprehension skills. Commenting without watching the video is arrogant and narcissistic.
@@Purplexity-ww8nb Glad I'm not the only one who notices stuff like that sometimes. Appreciate the comment and the view!
Seriously did you even pay any attention at all?
good timing. I just ordered one of these, and fedex has it.
now the waiting game begins.
The stick on thermometers are a great idea.
Yep, anything to do a quick visual check is a good thing in my opinion. Thanks for watching!
This has been really helpful! I just ordered one and I want to make sure I use the lead time to get all the other stuff I'll need squared away. Thanks for the great presentation!
I'm glad it helped... Make sure you watch this one too if you haven't already. ruclips.net/video/rUnc_0pGbzg/видео.html It covers our mods once we got the SFU Gearboxes, which I assume you will also have. Some of theses mods you won't need, but I would recommend getting the cone spacers just to give yourself a little extra room between the arms and the frame. Good Luck and thanks for the comment!
awesome series. thank you - I wish I could test this system before buying it
Ya I wanted that too before I bought one. Best I can tell you is it is like riding something at a themepark only maybe not quite as extreme. If you like those kind of rides, you will probably like this as well. I have zero buyers remorse. Thanks for the view and the comment.
Great tip with the washers, I made the mistake of not doing it and bent a few parts of the frame from over tightening.😢
Hi Adam, you are not the first to do that for sure. I think the majority of DOF owners have run into that issue. The good news is, the washers are big enough that you can kind of cover up your mistake with them :). Thanks for the comment and the view!
Excellent suggestions.
Appreciate you taking the time to watch my content, glad you found something helpful!
I think what might help is the quantity needed when purchasing new bolts. I'm trying to prepare for my delivery and would like to have everything in place and ready to mod. But regardless, for H6 owners this really is an awesome video. Nicely done. (Unless, of course, there's access to the documentation that has the count of items. :/)
Well you are in luck, if you go to my SFU Modification video, I talk about the key bolts you need but here is a copy of the list:
M8-1.25 x 110mm (10mm to 120mm Available) Socket Head Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, 12.9 Alloy Steel, Full Thread, Black Oxide, 5 PCS (NEED TOTAL OF 3 BOLTS): amzn.to/3X4jx3q
M8 8MM Male to M6 6MM Female - Threaded REDUCERS 5 x Thread ADAPTERS (NEED TOTAL OF 3 ADAPTERS): amzn.to/3i9AdYp
Temp Stickers for each motor (to visually make sure each one is not overheating... not really necessary but I wanted to add it): amzn.to/35gfdbx
(IMPORTANT: If ordering bolts or washers, please confirm proper measurements after clicking link. if Amazon is out of stock it may substitute a different size without noting the difference)
NON-AMAZON LINKS
M10 x 80mm Carbon Steel Full Threaded Hexagon Socket Cap Head Screws Bolts 5pcs (These are what I ordered, you may look for 90mm instead) NEED 6 TOTAL PIECES (2 packs of 5): www.harfington.com/products/p...
EIBACH END LINK SPACER (M10 Spacer 10mm) NEED 12 PIECES TOTAL (3 packs of 4): eibach.com/us/i-12116-eibach-... you
Steinjager Cone Style Rod End Spacers 5/16 Bore 4 Pack (NEED 6 PIECES TOTAL - 2 packs of 4): www.ebay.com/itm/234813416374...
This is obviously for the SFU Upgrade with the Cone Spacers added to it. I put how many you need in parenthesis. For the other bolts, we just bought a dozen or so of the longer M8s and then we used the ones that came with it and just used the appropriate length for the application. So in other words, when it say called for a 60mm long, we just used the 70mm long that came with the unit. I hope that makes sense? Anyway, you will likely find yourself needing to get some extras so just plan on that. I can't give you an exact count because the DOF Units have changed since I got mine with different bases and stuff so my inventory wouldn't be accurate anymore, but here is the current build guide for the H/P6 so maybe you can get some info from it ( dofreality.com/instructionsHP6.pdf ) Hope that helps and good luck.
@@GYGOtv Wow, thanks for the quick response and the great information! This is awesome!. I appreciate you taking the time to get this posted.
@@puckernet8155 No problem, good luck with your build... glad I could help!
Wow! That has to be the finest build of a full motion simulator, paying attention to details like incorporating fender washers, neoprene material, being careful not to over tighten bolts, painting the washers to match the steel, trimming the washers, and so on. So nice to see when enthusiasts go over and beyond what the original setup came with.
The larger seat mounted on slides look perfect!
Great tips, like marking the nuts with a line to help notice fasteners that may have become loose. The temperature strips on the motors are a great idea.
Mark, seeing how you had the two DOF Reality motor controllers on independent 20a circuits, did you put the computer on yet another 20a circuit? Or was the computer okay on one of the motor controller's 20a circuits?
The wiring (cable management) looks first class. Again, that is truly paying attention to detail. The bracket work? Definitely thumbs up!
The only thing I see wrong is that your DOF Reality motion platform is built, and the one I have is still in the box!
Great job Mark. Looking forward to the upcoming videos.
Aloha!
Thank you my friend, always appreciate when people notice all the "little things" as well. Very rewarding to read your comments! I actually have the computer plugged into an outlet on the other side of the room. Not because I was worried about overloading but because that is where the computer is. So just to clarify, on my build the ONLY thing plugged into each 20amp breaker is the DOF Reality Control box... Also because they are on the switch and I wouldn't want to have it on to run the computer when the H6 isn't in operation. You should always have the H6 off when not in use so it doesn't sit there and run it's "micro adjustment" routine continually and overheat the motors.
Information that you won’t find at any other channel..thank you!
Thanks for noticing. We try to be as original as possible. Appreciate you taking the time to watch our other content as well.
Great mods! It'd be cool if DOF reality took your suggestions and upgraded the H6 and P6 system. Some look complicated
Man I tell you by biggest concern was all the people talking about the controls being wiggly... this thing is ROCK SOLID with that extra support we put in for the HOTAS! I'm very proud of that mod!
Wow. Nice job.
Thanks Chad, appreciate the view and complement. Planning Part 4 with the peripherals soon, we did A LOT of customizing with those parts so come back and check out that episode in the near future.
Did you get the standard butt kicker adapter post from dofreality for your setup, i think i see a shot of it briefly but cant tell. I did the standard one, i feel the pipe is too narrow (even though i thought they corrected that), so ill add material to it, but i'm confused as to where to mount it. Seems the only spot that might work is up towards the front underside of the chair on the front of the spine material in the middle.
Hi Sky, yes I just got the DOF adapter and you are correct, it was a little loose. We added just a little of the Neoprene Rubber to it to make it tight and seems to work fine. Mounted it about the middle with the Buttkicker 2 pointed forward. I like this setup because I can reach down from the seat and feel how hot the Buttkicker is getting. You can see the installation here ruclips.net/video/zlGQ3N_1LAg/видео.html You can see the rubber at the front of the post if you look closely. Thanks for watching and good luck.
Where did you end up finding the
M8-1.25 x 100mm Socket Head Cap Screws, 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel, Allen Socket Drive, Black Oxide Finish screws? Checking lowes for instance they dont seem to have that length
We couldn't find those locally either. Ordered a lot of them from Amazon, the links are in the description above. I don't think they have the M8-1.24 x 100mm anymore so you might have to just do a search on the internet for another vendor. Good hunting!
Great video! What size are the sleeve/bushings you used? where did you get them? Thanks!
Thanks John, we just got some Round Steel Tubing from the local hardware store and custom cut them to fit. It was 1/2 inch tube, 3 foot length. I'd recommend you take one of your M10 bolts however because they didn't all fit in 1/2" tubes I'd assume due to manufacturing differences or damage from shipping. Appreciate you watching our content.
@@GYGOtv what tools did you use to cut the bolts and washers
@@TonyDrecaps Mostly used a band saw and a cut off tool, you could use a cutoff disk on a grinder too.
@@GYGOtv thank you!
Curious, for the larger washers, what tool did you use to cut them? Also how did you make the sleeves for inside the frame, custom cut part of some kind?
Hi Sky, we used a cut off wheel, but a die grinder with a cutting attachment would probably work too. Also used Vice Grips to hold while cutting. Thanks for the question.
@@GYGOtv I'll have to look into those or maybe i wont worry about it. I think i have a band saw that could work, if the right type of blade installed, unsure. Appreciate that you took time to respond btw, have a great day.
@@GYGOtv One other question, would it be just as good to use a 1" washer instead of 1.5" in the case of the 1.5's and then not needing to cut them? Or are they less effective on distributing the load
@@markm75 No problem Sky, I always try to reply so feel free to ask anything else. Yes we just used the tool we had, didn't go out and buy anything special for the cuts. Hope that helps.
@@markm75 I think "technically" they are less effective... but a 1 inch washer is more effective than not using one. Really the big factor is NOT over-tightening the bolts and bending the metal, so I think caution mixed with a 1 inch washer would be fine. I think that is a great idea if you don't want to mess with cutting the larger washers. Good luck, let us know how it goes, and thanks for watching!
Im curious, with the h6, how much of a footprint on the floor do you need, if you take into account shifting forward and back or side to side. I was going to try to put this in my smallish office area, i know there is the spec they list, but i'm assuming there is some extension to that at times?
Mine is in a 5 foot by 6 foot cubby in my office and it has room around it still. I'd say the 4x5 spec listed on the DOF Reality website is probably accurate. That is one of the great things about these units... very small footprint compared to other motion platforms! Thanks for the question.
@@GYGOtv Great info thanks, so about 5 ft wide by 6 foot long then right? (rectangular and 5ft on the seat tilt).
@@markm75 Ya I just did a full surge and sway and it is 6 ft front to back on the surge movement and 5 ft should be enough side to side. The tilt would be inside that envelope.
@@GYGOtv I guess i should factor in the controllers or whatever the proper term is, appears they take up a chunk of space unless i put them on a shelf too i suppose, is that accurate? And ty for this video, its a good level of detail on the build process not seen elsewhere.
@@markm75 SO how big a space are you working with? Is it that tight?
Hi Mark, when will you continue with your "DOF Reality H6 Motion Simulator" series? I'm looking forward to Part 4.
Thanks for the question DigitalEngine, well if that is something you want, I'll get right on it! Actually your timing is perfect, I really wanted to get the Varjo Aero series out of the way and then planned the Part 4 DOF segment next. I'm putting together the outline right now so is there anything specific that you are interested in? If so I can try to include it if it makes sense. Thanks for watching!
@@GYGOtv Thanks GYGO,
1) Interested in how you set up the Lighthouse tracking system, both hardware and software?
2) The 6DOF motion hardware/software interface with the sim app, especially DCS World, how is it setup, and how does it interface? Pros, cons and tips.
3) Noticed in your first Reality H6 video, the movements seemed to be abrupt and jerky or hard. Does the software dampen this out as applicable to the simulation and situation of the moment?
4) What is the buttkicker exactly, and how does it interface with the simulation, and how does it improve the experience?
5) Did you install the SRS Shake Kit or similar product?
Thanks for the really detailed videos you are creating!
@@digitalengine7406 Nice lists of questions. Some of these I can easily answer now.
1. Setting up the lighthouses can be seen in this video ( ruclips.net/video/l61-oqyZZL8/видео.html ), watch from 20 min 21 sec to about 23 min 30 sec to see the process. It's pretty easy, just mount them and plug them in. Then the computer will see them when you do Steam's room setup. You would mount them caddy-corner from each other, up high so nobody can walk in front of them.
2. The Motion Hardware/software could be it's own topic and video, so I may have to do a Part 5 after we talk about peripherals, and just going into the SRS Tuning Software, but it is amazing and you can adjust a ton. So hopefully you don't mind waiting just a little longer for that one.
3. The motion can be jerky or pretty smooth depending on the input from the telemetry and how you have the SRS software setup. You do get a little gear motion that you can slightly feel, but nothing that ruins the experience. Watch some of my flight videos and you should see it do both. You can also dampen it out as much as you like with the SRS software.
4. & 5. The Buttkicker is basically the same thing as the SRS Shake Kit. They are transducers that vibrate based on the input. The buttkicker just takes the game sound and I believe the SRS uses actual telemetry from games if they have it. I have a single Buttkicker on the bottom of the rig vs the SRS which sit on the seat itself. Some setups even use multiple transducers down by the pedals, on the sides of the rig and on the seat. I see it more in the Sim Racing world but they are a really cool effect that helps add the vibrations you would feel from an actual engine, etc. They all have pros and cons, and there are other options as well so you can research transducers for simulators and look into what you think would be right for you. I will talk more about the buttkicker in the Part 4 video.
Hope that answers some of your questions right away, and stay tuned for the Part 4 video hopefully in a week or 2.
@@GYGOtv On the Lighthouse tracking system setup question, more specifically, how do you set up the tracking system in regards to canceling out the movements of the motion rig? I have the original Vive, so I'm versed on setting up the lighthouses for room scale or my office chair space. However, with the lighthouses stationary, and the users actual position moving with the platform, but the users position not moving in relation to the virtual cockpit, how is this accomplished.?
Looking forward to your next video(s) on your system!
@@digitalengine7406 O' well that is a whole different question. So first thing is you may not need or want motion cancelling. I've gone back and forth on that. On one hand, it is so cool when I land on a carrier to visually get thrown into the dashboard when I catch the wire. Also, for racing I think it adds to the feeling of being jostled around the car as you drive. But there are times like when I'm at full afterburner where I feel like I'm almost inside the seat or just too far away from the dashboard. I would recommend trying the experience without motion compensation and see if you like it that way before investing in motion compensation.
So if you do decide you want motion compensation, there are 2 different ways to achieve this. Now I'm no expert because I haven't gone full bore with it... but I have looked into it. The first way which is what you would likely use with lighthouse tracking is to get an additional vive tracker or controller. You then mount that to the seat or somewhere close to where you head sits. You can add a plugin called OpenVR to Steam VR, and that software then allows you use that tracker's data to cancel out the motion. There is a fantastic tutorial here if you want more info, ruclips.net/video/1MqGO46xdtI/видео.html.
The other method is through the Sim Racing Software program and it involves using a sensor in place of a tracker. It is mainly for WMR systems, but I'm hoping it will work with the Aero because it is a much cleaner installation in my opinion. I haven't looked deeply into it yet, but when I do I will probably make a video about it if it works. You can find out more info about this method here: www.simracingstudio.com/post/motion-compensation
Hope that helps answer your question, sorry I'm not more of an authority on it, but I currently don't feel like I need it in my sims. That may change in the future however. :)
Can you make a video of you showing how to balance the rig
Hi Tig, I'm not really sure you can "balance" a 6 Series, I've asked in the forums and groups and nobody has really given me a good answer yet... Maybe someone will comment here. Balancing is really important on the 3 Series because the platform pivots on a central U-joint. The 6 Series has multiple arms attached that you really can't find the balance of it. The only real way I've figured to "balance" my unit is just to gauge the temps of the motors and see if any are getting more hot than others. Anyone else out there have a solution or recommendation for balancing the 6 Series platforms?
Thank for the great content, subscribed! Maybe I'll buy a H6 too for my favorite flight sim IL-2 only. It would be great if you could test IL-2 BoS to see how it behaves in a dogfight and take off/landing. There is a profile for that game but I can't risk a bad implementation for the price tag of the H6.
Thanks for the SUB!!! I'll do my best to keep good content coming your way. As for IL-2... give me a bit to get it all setup and configured correctly and then I'll do a "Mark Plays" for you. I haven't tried it yet BUT from what I've read and seen, it is one of the best motion experiences out there. From what I hear it even has turbulence, etc. so keep your fingers crossed... Either way I'll find out for you.
@@GYGOtv Me and the whole IL-2 community would appreciate that! Thanks so much and take your time. There's rarely any information or video about IL-2 and a dof reality rig out there. But your enthusiasm hooked me up anyways and I'll buy it right away if the combination convinces you!
@@montanazh Got your requested video done this weekend. I hope you find it useful. If you could do me a favor and post a link to the video to any IL2 Forums or Groups that you think would benefit from it, I'd appreciate it. Let me know what you think and Enjoy! ruclips.net/video/PNGR5F7l9HI/видео.html
What is the size of the sleeves you put on the unit and how many total were used?
Appreciate the question Eric, we just got some Round Steel Tubing from the local hardware store and custom cut them to fit. It was 1/2 inch tube, 3 foot length. I'd recommend you take one of your M10 bolts however because they didn't all fit in 1/2" tubes I'd assume due to manufacturing differences or damage from shipping. We used 6, one for each M10 bolt.
@@GYGOtv Thank you, what was the length of each piece once cut ?
@@esparks89129 Not sure the exact size because they are installed in the rig. We actually custom fit each one to within probably 1mm or so of the space in the framework. Your gap might vary depending on how tight you originally cranked down on the bolts. Just measure them out and they should be long enough to slide down where the holes are and stay put but not so long that they push the walls of the metal outward (unless you have deformed it by overtightening previously). Hope that helps.
You spent all that money and still have a trash wheel?
Ahh, yes it was about time for someone to make this comment again. Appreciate you watching thomgizziz, I've responded to this observation several times in the past. Feel free to look through the past comments if you want to know why I chose that wheel, obviously you are welcome to your opinion but I really don't care what you think about my wheel.