Hi, not all the platforms come with SFU upgrades according to their website. On H2 and H3 it's a 200$ upgrade and only for 2 motors, add an extra 100 if you want SFU on the traction loss.
Thanks for the clarification Igor, I'll pin this incase others have the same question. In my opinion the SFU gears are best on the H3/H2 because it takes out that play found in the older style gears. Would certainly recommend ANYONE getting an H3/H2 to upgrade the 2 gearboxes to SFU. The traction loss, probably not as critical as the others but would still be nice.
Mark, thanks for keeping sharing such great video. Looking forward more on H6/P6. I have P6 w/o SFU. Saw all the positive feedbacks on the upgrade and feel like to upgrade sooner or later. But the upgrade will cost me $200x6+shipping. Plus complex/tricky upgrading works and improvements you demonstrated😂. Hesitate to pull the trigger.
Thanks for the comment Kevin. I won't lie, as you can see it is quite an undertaking. I really do miss how the old gearboxes "lock" into position when powered off... but the increase in movement is noticeable. Hold off until you feel ready... DOF is always improving the products too so I think the new ones even come with digital encoders so no need to calibrate anymore. Appreciate you watching!
@@GYGOtv You are sharing your genuine feeling without BS. No doubt with that. Just need to convince myself to cost one more arm addition to two legs for P6 not many yrs ago. BOM of a SFU seems costing nothing while understand DOF Reality team needs payback on their R&D. May be digital encoders to be the trigger. Will see if they could offer discount for H6/P6 upgrade… talking about 6 sets! :-)
Ya good luck, I hope you can make it work out. I'm looking at a similar situation if I want to go to the digital encoders... not ready to spend the money yet just like you. I will tell you, if you are willing to do all the clearancing that we did and you flip those triangles around (the way you are NOT supposed to have them)... we got an additional 2 degrees out of it (it is basically to the point where it is moving as much as it possibly can with this style of rig (hexapod). In fact I have to keep the sway down to about half so it doesn't destroy itself in this configuration. I don't know if that helps with your decision or not, but just know with the SFU's the movement of the rig is pretty much maximized doing it this way. Again not recommended by DOF, but I love 10 degrees of pitch each direction!
Many thanks Mark for this and all you're other videos. You were great in informing me on my VR headset upgrade when i was leaning to the Aero. Instead i went for a 4090 and a Pico. Very happy. I'm now thinking of a H3, but can't find much info on the motion compensation issue. Have you guys (or anyone here) solved it with the H6? (think you mentioned there will be a part 4 looking at this. )
Hi gerryabbott, thank you for watching our stuff! Motion compensation is a WAY deeper rabbit hole than I thought it would be for sure. I've been trying different types of MC and pretty much have it figured out but want to wait to test the Pimax version of Motion Comp in the Pimax Play software before I do the video. I need the lighthouse faceplate for that and it is on order so just a matter of time. SO basically there are two forms of Motion Compensation. There is the Witmotion Box (www.simracingstudio.com/post/motion-compensation) and then you have where you mount a controller (or a valve tracker) to the rig and use it as a physical tracker. The Witmotion setup works great for an H2/H3 but DOES NOT compensate for anything other than pitch and roll. So for the H6, we had to mount a controller to the back of the chair and use 3rd Party Software for motion comp. I got it working perfectly in SteamVR, but had issues in OpenXR (that is why I want to test in the Pimax Play). It is a little cumbersome to start but once it is working it is rock solid and honestly I can't enjoy the motion rig without at least using the Witmotion, but obviously want to compensate the other axis too. So if you are only doing the H3, the Witmotion method will work just fine for you (you might notice the Yaw not compensating, but not a huge immersion breaker). If you do upgrade to the H6, you will likely want to go to the other method at as it stands right now. You will obviously need lighthouse basestations for that. Stay tuned, again I'll have that video up as soon as I finish testing the Crystal's MC in the Pimax software. Thanks for the question and I hope this helps.
@@GYGOtv Wow thanks' for the comprehensive reply. Intuitively I figured its a complex issue to resolve. I'm wedded to inside out tracking so not holding my breath for a quick fix. Looking forward to the video, and keep up the great work.
What were the motor temperatures before and after SFU, with and without gas struts? What range should they be running in? Planning on a huge rebuild of my H6 with triple monitors attached. I already have an extruded aluminium frame on it. Will find the balancing point of the new rig and make a "3 legged spider" frame to suit and increase the size of the lower frame so everything lines up. With the aluminium frame but not the triple monitors, my motor temp increases are only about 6 degrees after 45 minutes driving. The triples will increase this but balancing it properly will reduce it again hopefully.
Hi Paul, motors rarely go to 30c previous to the SFU and now typically they will hit 35c at the most (usually lower) The motors are safe unless you go over 60c, that is why these temp sticker work so well. If you ever see them full, then you are in danger of damaging the motors. Just put some temp stickers on your motors and keep an eye on them and you should be fine amzn.to/35gfdbx Do you have any videos of your rig, I'd love to see the "3 legged spider".
@@GYGOtv Hi. Thanks for the temp info. How is it your motors are running hotter after the SFU upgrade? I thought they're supposed to stress the motors less than the old wormgear gearboxes. Is 35 degrees with or without the gas struts? I think I may be able to get rid of the spider top frame completely as the aluminium profile rig is so solid, I think I can make brackets and attach the gas struts and legs directly (at the new calculated locations) like this guy has done.....ruclips.net/video/5fx_v4epF5M/видео.html
@@paulhitchen4090 DOF said I didn't need the gas struts with the SFU Upgrade... my temp sensors indicated differently and that was the temps NOT using the gas struts. Temps went back down to close to pre-sfu after we reinstalled the gas struts. 35 is with them installed. With old gearboxes they hardly ever registered even 30.
14:38 about the SFU. Week ago I asked about it, as I was unsure that is the SFU gearbox a upgrade only, or is it in-factory upgrade for shipping in the new units since the release of them. And DOF told me that it is *extra* $300 to get the SFU motors to be replacing standard two H2 motors for shipping (so old ones are replaced with the SFU ones). So how is it?
Yes DOF clarified which units come standard with the SFU and which are needed to be upgraded in the pinned comment below. Sounds like they went up to $300 instead of $200. It is my understanding that the cost increase is due to the increase in cost that DOF is experiencing from their vendors, but I don't know that for sure. In my opinion the SFU upgrade is absolutely needed for the H2, even more so than an H6 because it takes out the slop or slack that the old gearboxes have had forever. The effect with the old gearboxes is slight wiggling as the gears move between the teeth. I never had an H2 so I can't speak from experience but it seems like that is completely gone with the new SFU's. I wouldn't even think twice about the upgrade with the H2 unit. Hope that helps.
@@GYGOtv Thanks for the reply. The quoted $300 extra was the whole addition to the H2 price. So it is now about $2200 for H2, that has three motors and two to be upgraded. And then it would cost additional $300 to it, so $2500 in total to order the H2 with the SFU versions. So it would make it just $150 extra per motor, because you don't buy the old gearboxes and they get to keep them, to sell them to those who don't want the upgrade.
@@katumus Ahh I see. Ya I don't think things are going to get any cheaper going forward so you just have to decide if it's worth it for you. I do know DOF doesn't make a ton of money on each unit so the price increase is likely due to their prices going up too.
Do these cone spacers also eliminate the cogging / juddering that can be had in MSFS when you do fast (for example) pitch changes, the sudden thump sound? Many are doing an actual motor swap in the last few weeks to a 3rd party that sounds like it may eliminate the judder, but im not sure if its the same judder?
Thanks for the question, so the judder that everyone is changing motors for is judder during slow movements in turns, it has to do with Torque Ripple. If you are getting a thump while moving fast, make sure you are not hitting anything. If your arms are hitting the bolts, then these cones could help that. I assume you are using a H6 or P6?
@@GYGOtv Yeah its the h6 sfu, example im in the freedom fox aircraft and if you are cruisin along and do a quick up and down on the pitch, often you get that "thunk" which i think isnt realistic, i called that judder. I mustnt be turning right haha... cause i've not noticed the "cogging" on a turn or maybe i just got used to it
@@markm75Ya I'd check all your bolts and make sure something isn't coming loose. It could possibly be the "rebound" effect that I noticed, the fix for that is here www.tvdr.de/sim/2/power.htm?fbclid=IwAR1Txh-IH6CsYRAdR0pPjFuMzS5KQuHzglHk7Oh8FTgESXG870t0xs8BDl4 but even then it shouldn't "thunk" so check everything closely. As for the turning judder, some people are more sensitive to it than others. For me I can feel it, but I mask it with my Buttkicker so it does not really bother me, but some people it ruins the entire experience for them. Hope you can find that clunk sound.
if i just want an h3 for iracing, do you think i really need the SFU upgrade option? Do i really need to have more movement than the standard gearboxes provide? Any other benefits to the SFU upgrade? Also I am using a quest 2 and I am really concerned about how I am going to do motion compensation. I assume you can limit the motion in the SW if you want? I dont want to use steam open VR, i currently use either oculus or openXR mode. Love the channel, thx!
Thanks for the comment Listen U! Yes you do want the SFU gearboxes for the main motors. You can keep the old gearbox for the Traction Loss if you want to save the money. The big reason is the old gearboxes have "play" between the gears so you get this looseness as the rig rocks slightly with the old gears. With the SFU you have a screw that is rock solid and doesn't have the play. I actually think the SFU is better for the 2/3 series because it fixes that. You certainly can limit motion to your liking with the software. As for motion compensation... I haven't figured out a way to do it without Steam (OpenVR) yet. The program you need to use only works in it as far as I know. There are 2 main methods I've researched... one is with the WitMotion box to create a virtual tracker, and the other uses an actual controller or tracker as a reference. I think SRS is working on a openxr system, but I think that is still a ways off. Anyway hope that helps and thanks again for watching our stuff!
nice work, great idea.... I just FINALLY got my P6 up and running today for the first time. Flying helicopter in DCS but not getting hardly any heave movment when I raise and lower collective, I even maxed heave out under tunning and still nothing... do you fly any helicopters in DCS or just the fa18?
Hi William, I just fly fixed wing in DCS, but I fly heli's in MSFS2020. SO start turning down the number in the "Max Telemetry" box for Heave. Just do a few numbers at a time until you get the feeling you want. Mine is down at 6 in MSFS2020 and I've set it as low as 2 in other sims. Just go in slow steps because it can really bounce you hard if you go too much at once. Hope this helps. If you really want to get a good understanding of what all the setting do in Sim Racing Studio... check out our 2 part videos with Jeff Weaver, we talk about all this stuff in detail. Part 1 ruclips.net/video/pzi8G7T9p7A/видео.html Part 2 ruclips.net/video/LSStkqpIX_M/видео.html They are long format, but filled with info. Enjoy!
@@GYGOtv I did actually try turning down the numbers of Max telemetry, even got into the negative numbers negative 10. Still no reaction. So it kind of looks like maybe they didn't built that into the Apache module.
@@GYGOtv I just finally messed with the F-16 and the uh-1 helicopter and it doesn't appear I'm getting heave in either of those, that being all three points raising up simultaneously to lift you straight up or down. Especially when I hit playback and I'm not in the chair I can watch it very closely Its Behavior. And I just don't see it going straight up or straight down. But you would think you would see it much more in a helicopter but I'm not seeing it and either helicopter. Nor can I say I've been able to find a video on RUclips showing it happening.
@@WilliamDeanPlumbing Do you have Elite Dangerous? Thrusting straight up and Down in it certainly moves it. Also, you should feel something if you come in for a hard landing in the F-16 and I certainly can feel it taking off and touching down in MSFS with the chopper there. I assume you have the heave axis on and motion turned up on it so I doubt that is the issue. If you go into SRS and "test" the motion what happens when you move the heave slider up and down?
Mark, I have been looking into an H6 and cant find info regarding mains/outlet power use. I know they ship it for U.S. sockets but how many receptacles are needed to power the unit and do you need to have it on a dedicated circuit by itself? Basically I'm trying to determine if the spot I have in mind is going to work. Much appreciate your time to answer and love your videos.
@@oseanmc Glad you found it Sean. I've heard of people using standard outlets but it really depends how your house is wired. I didn't want to take any chances so we did a dedicated line with the 2 independent/isolated plugs.
Unfortunately no, I couldn't even find them originally in 10mm. I'd recommend doing a little more looking because 10mm would be better BUT here is a link to what we bought www.ebay.com/itm/165865102485?hash=item269e549c95:g:nJUAAOSwVPFfdKS0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Pl1z%2B18tbQ3cDYF49qVwQd4zdA64lVg%2F1BVy6dPPaqgnsfZvjRdQZkEQMT63I7tIY2qhzI9UxuTk1AULX2Qx1xKn6aoS9UjazWxCtSSuMFJNpYwVYXRqTi3M49L6VWwLSOZlQA7ttTqyaYOOjGBZyis7Mkp%2BO2ga3%2BpVEfRjwFjVITg4VeUrfRNkZRJLWZMSMK5c4UHhhEWO3WymLO%2Fnm4mIJFR%2Bv%2FcWBIee6MIlAtAQPCz2v7ZPUo0ZIJ453UQxVleuC6eXV52HZ0t6VwfAA7IvR0jIzmatVty3WMEppIP%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sh3dSzYQ just note they are 7/16 so you will need to shim them with some cardboard to keep them centered... but they will work. If you do find some other 10mm please let us know here as I'm sure others will need them too. Here is a photo of the cardboard we used (cut into 66mm x 10mm strips) drive.google.com/file/d/1Bu_gJSGAKFRwudezx9txxHJy7EEmIJyx/view?usp=sharing and here is a video of putting them in drive.google.com/file/d/1bntFu_NxJwe-YH9K3wpQvactUjymATxO/view?usp=sharing Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Curious have you ever had motors just stop working while in msfs? With my h6 sfu lately I keep losing l1 and l2, abd also the start test button in srs is always greyed out. I can power cycle things to get the motors back. I can't find an answer I emailed their support. Wondering if there's a log file somewhere
I've had it do something similar a few times in Elite Dangerous but not MSFS. I think it's just a glitch because I did the same thing, reset everything and it all started working again. Not sure about the log file but I'd love to know what you hear back from them.
@@GYGOtv So far they had me take some screen shots from section 5.4 of the manual doing the sine wave function. however, i think i narrowed it down to a problem with just the p42 freedom fox aircraft (maybe).. any chance you have that one? Sitting in the chair in a bout 2 mins with some fierce aerobatics it will lose either 1L/2L or 1R/2R motors for me, tried another aircraft and didnt occur
@@markm75no sorry, don't have that aircraft. At least you have narrowed it down. Good luck, I hope they help you sort it out soon. Appreciate the update.
Hi mate, i bought the h6 based on your recommendation. I will use only for msfs. Could you point me in the right direction for motion compensation? I bought the festive you recommended but didn't realise it only covers pitch and roll
Hello, first off thank you for trusting my recommendation... I hope you are enjoying your rig so far. So this is actually a bit more complicated than just pointing you toward a part (one of the reasons my video on this topic gets pushed back because there are just so many factors). Anyway, the first question I have for you is what VR Headset are you using, and is it Lighthouse Tracked or Inside Out? Second are you using a transducer like a Buttkicker or anything. Let me know about these things and I can help you a bit more. Thanks and I look forward to hearing back from you.
@@GYGOtv unbelievably quick reply man...I use varjo aero with base station. The h6 hasn't been delivered yet but I have ordered all the washers and neoprene that you recommend in preparation
@@willbennett1359 You caught me when I was online... not always this fast at replying but I'm glad I can help! SO, if you want the best Motion Compensation currently, it is still using a vive or index controller and using it to cancel out the movement. This is the process I use and it works great EXCEPT if you have any Buttkicker or other transducer, it will cause vibration or shaking in your headset if you don't mitigate it. I basically have my controller mounted to the back of my seat with a lot of rubber isolators and some heavy metal plate and it kills about 90% of the vibration. Then the software I use kills about another 10% or so. If you email me at GYGOmail@gmail.com I can send you some photos of my setup. The software you need will depend on if you are using OpenXR or SteamVR but both basically use the same controller system mentioned above. Our good friend Jeff Weaver did a video on this years ago but it will still give you a good baseline to understand this method. Here is a link to his video... ruclips.net/video/1MqGO46xdtI/видео.html Please let me know if you have any other questions and WELCOME TO THIS AMAZING WORLD OF MOTION!!!
Great videos Mark. I just received my P3 from DOF and having issues with parts. Not getting any reply from them in support and I was wondering if I could ask a few questions of you. Thanks.
Sure Jim, but I haven't ever built the 3-Series. BTW, Are you emailing sales@dofreality(dot)com? They are usually really good at returning emails quickly.
Thanks mark. I have purchased a P3 with the SFU upgrade and just got the unit so a bit of a newb still but having big time issues with the assembly. Missing parts, and it looks like maybe not even the right motors. All the videos showed the SFU motors with an Orange/red motor to gearbox coupler. The main 2 motors I received just have a straight coupler with no insert. Is it possible I received the non-SFU motors? Also, the 3rd yaw motor was not attached to the frame as shown in all assembly videos. Separate with an additional rod attached to the gearbox and the motor separate almost like it was for a P6. Any thoughts on these two things would help. Thanks
@@jimmarko-qf8qy Feel free to email me some photos of the parts if you would like. SO the SFU gearboxes are very obvious, they have the big screws sticking out. It you go back and look at my early videos, you will see what the old gearboxes look like... they have small lever sticking out the side of a box with ribs on it. I'm not sure about the coupler... DOF is constantly iterating on the design so that might be the case here. What I'd recommend is you join the DOFRealityBuilders Facebook Group facebook.com/groups/1858593921047822 if you haven't already. They are very helpful and someone there should be able to give you the latest insight into what's going on. They are my go to group when I have issues. Hope that helps.
We are sorting through it all right now so I'll try to get it filmed once we settle on a final setup. Still working out a few bugs on our design and still have a few more vibrations to try and cancel out. I can tell you it is pretty cool when you have it working. Are you running any transducers on your setup?
@@GYGOtv Thanks Mark. I do not, but noticed I might need motion compensation since the SFU. Didn't have any issue before the upgrade. The SFU was still worth it.
Wait, the motors still get hot even though you upgraded to the SFU gearbox. I thought one of the advantages of going SFU is that one does not have to worry about motors getting hot?
We still overheated without the struts... The gearboxes are more efficient but you obviously can still have issues if you overload based on our experience.
Yes I have seen that Louis, thanks for the question. So I love the idea of how far back it pitches but in my opinion the Yaw axis (which is one of it's key selling points) is one of the least needed, and I think Heave is a much better axis because it is what lets you feel the landing. I've heard they are developing a "Heave Module" That goes under it, so that would be a necessity IMO. You will probably want to go wireless with the headset because the full Yaw will lead to tangled wires. I've also heard the prices are going up and delivery is still an issue with them. My final concern is I don't see a really good way to mount all your HOTAS equipment on there AND still be easy to climb in and out of. But don't get me wrong, I do think the experience would be amazing... Let me know if you get one and what you think! Hope that answers your question.
Great video! Quick question, so if I buy a H3 now will I be getting the SFU with the H3 as standard? For the same price? Or have they increased the price? Because on their website there is no mention of this. The SFU are still at 200 bucks separately on there. Please let me know before I place a order. Thanks
Hi Usman, I only asked about the Series 6 models so your best bet to be sure is to email DOF Reality and ask them directly. It is my understanding that they eventually want to transition solely to SFU's but don't know the status on the 3 Series currently. Please feel free to let us know if you find out anything definitively and thanks for watching.
I pinned the answer to the top of the page, hope that helps clarify. I'd recommend getting the $200 upgrade with the H3, it is a noticeable improvement from what I understand.
Hi, i have just bought a h6. At times, there is a drop on a motor either in the front and back when moving fast from one side to the other. Dof said it was due to overtorque. I think the load is below 270 pounds. I am 6ft tall, 190 pounds dressed. Seat is below 40 pounds. Then the usual, pedals and wheels, shifter, vr. Does it mean i need the gas struts?
Well congrats on your H6 first and foremost. As far as gas struts go, DOF Reality and I differ on our opinion. They say you don't need them unless you are over 300 lbs. In my mind, they will always help lift the rig easier hence faster movement on heave and I don't really see a downside to having them on. I think they may possibly help your issue. You may also be experiencing the issue found here www.tvdr.de/sim/2/power.htm?fbclid=IwAR0STVuQ8_Zi1jPNvDdburh4WrkrKInig67yBNd0K0Rdrk8PXQXMv2DzMkI I haven't done this fix yet but it is on my "to do" list at some point. Hope this helps and thanks for watching GYGO!
Thx for your prompt response.... i ll check... Your channel helped me a lot with my decision to purchase the H6. Great job! I also have the pimax crystal. I am dealing with an issue with openxr motion compensation srs witmotion combo. The roll and pitch work pretty well but the surge is not compensated at all. It is like i move back in the seat each time i accelerate in dcf or msfs. Maybe it is something you can go in detail in a dedicated video when your time permits. GOD BLESS YOU.
@@tsdpassionHappy to help, glad you are finding the content informative! So the problem you are having is because the Witmotion/SRS combo does not compensate for those axis from what I've see testing it. It does a good job with H2/H3 but not for the H6. If you are planning to get the lighthouse setup for the Pimax, there might be built in Motion Compensation in there. You can see it by accessing the hidden menu (CTRL+Q in the "device settings" section) but it looks like you will need to use a lighthouse based controller. I plan to test it, but my Lighthouse Faceplate won't be here until October. Hope that helps and thanks again for watching!
@GYGOtv hi there. were you able to test motion compensation with the lighthouse with the crystal? I got mine today with one htc base 2.0 and vibe tracker 3.0. I activated the option in pimax client with the ctrl q hidden menu. Well, it does not compensate well at all when i pitch or roll the h6 simulator. It only works with heave, lateral, or forward, backward motion.... so it is unusable. So i tried instead the openxr motion compensation software and selected vibe as tracker in the config file instead of srs. But when the compensation activates in a game, it says error and does compensate at all. ...
@@tsdpassionBeen trying for about 3 weeks now but my faceplate was defective and Pimax is taking another week to get me a replacement. Trust me, I'm VERY interested to see how well it works. Stay tuned, I'll let you know once all is working. Thanks for the question.
If you had purchased the P3, would there be any modifications you expect would apply there too? Is it safe to say that all the time and effort you've spent tweaking would not be necessary if you'd have bought the P3?
Hi jchief40... So having never had a 3 series, I can't definitively answer that, but in theory, you would still probably ideally want some form of cone spacer on it to maximize travel of the tierod ends and keep them from binding. DOF usually recommends stacking washers, but I think cone spacers are a better option. Probably not as critical because the frame likely doesn't interfere like the 6 series does, but you still want to free up movement as much as possible. If anyone out there has a 3-Series and agrees or disagrees, please comment below as again I'm just guessing based on what I have seen. Thanks for the question.
HEY HEY... that is the first "Gabe Newell's Brother" comment I've had! Usually they just call me Gabe Newell. I would have preferred "Gabe's more handsome brother" but O'well. Thanks for stopping by... And I guess legally I have to say here that I'm not related to Gabe Newell... and if I had valve money then you would see an even more impressive rig :)
Hi Mark, I have the old H6 and did get the upgrade done last week. I too experience the motor overshooting problem, it never happened before. and it happens on i feel like all 6 motors occasionally, how are you dealing with it? did putting back the 3 lift rod back help anything?
Congrats on the upgrade zmbob!!! I think the struts did help a little but they helped more with our overheating problem. Someone did determine the issue wit the "rebound" I just haven't had a chance to modify mine yet, but seems like this should do the trick. www.tvdr.de/flightsim/power.htm?fbclid=IwAR0UODVe9J6RFrnDbZcUZKkERGnrC1nH4W7bwrJ5jrCu0bZftOGIzicD14Q Good luck, and of course I'll do a video once I have done this too. I'm still knee deep in motion compensation right now so first things first. Thanks for the question.
@@GYGOtv OMG I think this is amazing! how do ppl figure this out like this. Opened up my eyes!. OK i think i will try to mod this too. Motion is defiantly much more with this SFU upgrade, the motion compensation should be a must. I brought the new monitor stand and upgraded thicker wheel stand from DOF, i will try to put a Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 on the rig see how it goes, I don't have those lift rods installed on the rig right now, but after putting the monitor on the rig, i may need them too. Thanks for the link Mark!
@@zmbob That is a great question... I hadn't considered that. My guess is it should work with the same diodes... but I might be wrong as this is out of my area of expertise. Anyone out there have any solid thoughts on this?
@@GYGOtv update I just did the mod. I purchased exactly the same parts, and I put them on and they worked! No more over shooting! Only a 1 hour or less mod. Very easy to do.
Great video Mark! I have a H6 with the exact same setup (SFU upgrade with struts) but I'm finding I'm having to leave my motor boxes running all the time in order to keep the platform from careening awkward different directions due to the struts once the H6 is powered off. Have you run into this & if so what has been your solution?
Hey Curtis thanks for the comment and the compliment, so you do not want to keep your boxes on all the time because the motors will continue to do "micro adjustments" and they will get hot. I don't know if you have temp strips on yours, but a few times I have accidently left mine powered on and I do indeed see a rise in temps. Realistically once I'm done and out of the rig... I just turn it off and let it do its thing. If the position bugs you, you can easily grab the frame and slide it where ever you want it. If you didn't have the gas struts on it, it would still settle weirdly, it would just go down instead of up with the struts. One note, I think some of the bending of the old levers was due to turning the unit off while I was still in it, or trying to get into it without the power on. Basically I just started turning it on anytime I'm getting in OR out and then power everything off once I'm totally finished using it. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@GYGOtv One thing I've been doing for this issue is to go to the SRS app, setup tab, start test, click on the heave button and drag it to the left. Then shut down power to the unit. This puts it on the lowest level for all the motors/gears. You can then get on and off the unit without it moving.
Hi it's me again. I told you I ordered the H2 platform, they dropped one box off and the other box got stuck in customs and went back and forth between Memphis and Gastonia four times before I got it straightened out. Also had to send the power supply box back because it was everything was broken off and floating around inside the power supply box, so that's on the way from dof. Anyway my question is even though I ordered the H2 with the SFU setup and they told me I would have the newest version available, they sent me new different shafts to install in the little gearbox. I did install them but they did not say where to set them or anything and I was wondering do the motors and gearbox control arms self Center the gearbox when you finally turn it on for the first time which I cannot do because I don't have the power supply box. I have ask dof into emails but they did not answer back. So I put it on Facebook group and they told me to watch this video of yours that it would explain everything. But obviously it does not answer the question that I have about will the motors self Center because they have been detached from the gearboxes and dof did not say any certain place to reinstall them. Hope this makes sense because I am really upset, they told me I would have the latest and greatest was the actual words and the minute I got it I had to tear it apart to change the warm drive shafts. And I don't know when I'll be getting the power supply box. I would send a picture but I do not think you can. Thank you for your continued help and support I really appreciate it.
Hey Nashfan, If you have the new drive shafts then you do have the "latest and greatest" from my understanding. Those were only going out to the pilot customers as far as I know. I don't really officially know about the new units but if you have the latest digital encoders it should auto calibrate when you start it up. The way you can tell is if you have little black boxes off the back of each motor... those are the new digital encoders. You might reach out to DOF again for the specific setup as I don't know what it is for the new shafts yet... I understand you have tried to reach them with no luck but honestly they are the only ones who can tell you specifically what to do. Once I get up to speed on all this I'll know more but for now these new shafts are so new that few have experience with them. You can always email photos to me at my email in the description if you want to. Wish I could help more, and I will be able to later but for now that is the best I can do. Hope it helps a little.
@GYGOtv hi thank you for your response. There is a little black cover maybe 1 inch by 1 and 1/4 inch where the wires come out is that what you mean? Wish I was as tech-savvy as you say Mars but it's 68 years old I probably should have never taken this project on but I hope it works out. is there a way to send a picture? thank you!
@@GYGOtv this is the one I have without the metal cover. Are those encoder motors? ruclips.net/video/_bFt2nUOyO0/видео.html Thank you for your help, this is a tough journey for me. Also now I hear that mt HP reverb 2 wont work soon due to ms doing away with WMR. What timing I have! I may eventually get a quest 3 after get some extra cash saved up and get this DOF running. But even the Quest 3 seems like a nightmare to get up and running. oh my! Thank you for your help, you are the best!
@@nashfan1000So the "digital encoder" replaces our old analog sensor, it is not the actual motor. The benefit is you don't have to calibrate them like I do on mine. I think once you get everything up and running you will find it has been worth all the hassle, at least that is what most have determined. SO you do have the latest and it should all self calibrate once you start it up. As for your Reverb G2, just don't update your Windows and you will be fine for awhile. I'm hearing conflicting stories if the update actually removes the software or just stops supporting it. One of my users says it worked fine after the update so I'm trying to verify this with others. Hopefully we will hear something more definitive soon. You should still find out from DOF if there are any other steps you need to do since you replaced the shafts. I've been told there is a firmware upgrade that goes with that but I don't know if DOF already did that for you or not. They really are the only ones who can answer that. If you continue to be unable to contact them, please email me your order number and I'll see what I can do. Also you can email me directly with photos etc... my email is always in the description of the video.
@@GYGOtvdof told me that since they had to replace the power supply unit that the firmware update would be completed when I got it, hopefully😊 thank you so much for always answering me you have no idea how much I appreciate it feel kind of lost and this project except for the help you've been giving me like I said it's very appreciated thank you
Any motion is good motion in my opinion. I don't know much about eracing, but actuators in general are a good choice... just usually more expensive to get to 6dof. Let me know how you like it when you get it, and congrats!
@@GYGOtv yea 3k after shipping for 4 actuators. I thought it was a good deal . The reviews online seem good. A littler better than paying 7.5k for dbox lol.
@@CaliCuh Actuators are good for that for sure. You will get all the subtle movements and good fidelity out of that system. Looking forward to hearing how you like it.
@@GYGOtvdo you do consulting? I'm south of Denver and thought maybe you could provide some hands-on experience. I'm wondering if an assembly video from start, mod installs, then finish would be worthwhile.
@@puckernet8155 Hi puckernet... never really thought about the consulting thing, tell me more what you are thinking? As far as an assembly video, that would be a huge project. Just the SFU upgrade video took a lot of work so not sure that would be feasible, especially since my rig it together now and I really wouldn't want to take it apart. Honestly, it is not that difficult to put together anyway... we just followed the instructions and used some common sense where the instructions were vague. Anyway, I always recommend people join the DOF Reality Facebook group ( facebook.com/groups/1858593921047822 ) as well, they are an amazing resource and are very helpful with assembly questions. Hope that helps and thanks for the question.
HeyArnold, I don't know what the HELL you are talking about... It is a G27!!!! LOL This is a tired old observation and I've talked about the reasons why several times, you can get the answer to why here if you are interested ruclips.net/video/zlGQ3N_1LAg/видео.html Thanks for watching.
@@GYGOtv Hey, to each his own …Just seems like an odd choice to make for a motion rig.. there’s a HUGE level of realism being left on the table by going with that wheel. S’all I’m sayin bruh. Something like this would be a good option: ruclips.net/video/jXGKdk6apRo/видео.html
@@Drift-Daddy Actually I've heard you should go with a Direct Drive over something like that... I think the option you posted is leaving a "HUGE level of realism" on the table over a Direct Drive :) BTW I'm just funnin' with you Arnold, I enjoy the banter. Thanks for watching the content and for commenting. Appreciate it.
Hi, not all the platforms come with SFU upgrades according to their website. On H2 and H3 it's a 200$ upgrade and only for 2 motors, add an extra 100 if you want SFU on the traction loss.
Thanks for the clarification Igor, I'll pin this incase others have the same question. In my opinion the SFU gears are best on the H3/H2 because it takes out that play found in the older style gears. Would certainly recommend ANYONE getting an H3/H2 to upgrade the 2 gearboxes to SFU. The traction loss, probably not as critical as the others but would still be nice.
@@GYGOtv No problem.
The P series do come with the upgraded SFU
Mark, thanks for keeping sharing such great video. Looking forward more on H6/P6.
I have P6 w/o SFU. Saw all the positive feedbacks on the upgrade and feel like to upgrade sooner or later. But the upgrade will cost me $200x6+shipping. Plus complex/tricky upgrading works and improvements you demonstrated😂. Hesitate to pull the trigger.
Thanks for the comment Kevin. I won't lie, as you can see it is quite an undertaking. I really do miss how the old gearboxes "lock" into position when powered off... but the increase in movement is noticeable. Hold off until you feel ready... DOF is always improving the products too so I think the new ones even come with digital encoders so no need to calibrate anymore. Appreciate you watching!
@@GYGOtv You are sharing your genuine feeling without BS. No doubt with that. Just need to convince myself to cost one more arm addition to two legs for P6 not many yrs ago. BOM of a SFU seems costing nothing while understand DOF Reality team needs payback on their R&D. May be digital encoders to be the trigger. Will see if they could offer discount for H6/P6 upgrade… talking about 6 sets! :-)
Ya good luck, I hope you can make it work out. I'm looking at a similar situation if I want to go to the digital encoders... not ready to spend the money yet just like you. I will tell you, if you are willing to do all the clearancing that we did and you flip those triangles around (the way you are NOT supposed to have them)... we got an additional 2 degrees out of it (it is basically to the point where it is moving as much as it possibly can with this style of rig (hexapod). In fact I have to keep the sway down to about half so it doesn't destroy itself in this configuration. I don't know if that helps with your decision or not, but just know with the SFU's the movement of the rig is pretty much maximized doing it this way. Again not recommended by DOF, but I love 10 degrees of pitch each direction!
Many thanks Mark for this and all you're other videos. You were great in informing me on my VR headset upgrade when i was leaning to the Aero. Instead i went for a 4090 and a Pico. Very happy. I'm now thinking of a H3, but can't find much info on the motion compensation issue. Have you guys (or anyone here) solved it with the H6? (think you mentioned there will be a part 4 looking at this. )
Hi gerryabbott, thank you for watching our stuff! Motion compensation is a WAY deeper rabbit hole than I thought it would be for sure. I've been trying different types of MC and pretty much have it figured out but want to wait to test the Pimax version of Motion Comp in the Pimax Play software before I do the video. I need the lighthouse faceplate for that and it is on order so just a matter of time. SO basically there are two forms of Motion Compensation. There is the Witmotion Box (www.simracingstudio.com/post/motion-compensation) and then you have where you mount a controller (or a valve tracker) to the rig and use it as a physical tracker. The Witmotion setup works great for an H2/H3 but DOES NOT compensate for anything other than pitch and roll. So for the H6, we had to mount a controller to the back of the chair and use 3rd Party Software for motion comp. I got it working perfectly in SteamVR, but had issues in OpenXR (that is why I want to test in the Pimax Play). It is a little cumbersome to start but once it is working it is rock solid and honestly I can't enjoy the motion rig without at least using the Witmotion, but obviously want to compensate the other axis too. So if you are only doing the H3, the Witmotion method will work just fine for you (you might notice the Yaw not compensating, but not a huge immersion breaker). If you do upgrade to the H6, you will likely want to go to the other method at as it stands right now. You will obviously need lighthouse basestations for that. Stay tuned, again I'll have that video up as soon as I finish testing the Crystal's MC in the Pimax software. Thanks for the question and I hope this helps.
@@GYGOtv Wow thanks' for the comprehensive reply. Intuitively I figured its a complex issue to resolve. I'm wedded to inside out tracking so not holding my breath for a quick fix. Looking forward to the video, and keep up the great work.
@@gerryabbottNo problem, again if you are just talking the H2/H3 then the Witmotion is fine and will work for that unit.
What were the motor temperatures before and after SFU, with and without gas struts? What range should they be running in? Planning on a huge rebuild of my H6 with triple monitors attached. I already have an extruded aluminium frame on it. Will find the balancing point of the new rig and make a "3 legged spider" frame to suit and increase the size of the lower frame so everything lines up. With the aluminium frame but not the triple monitors, my motor temp increases are only about 6 degrees after 45 minutes driving. The triples will increase this but balancing it properly will reduce it again hopefully.
Hi Paul, motors rarely go to 30c previous to the SFU and now typically they will hit 35c at the most (usually lower) The motors are safe unless you go over 60c, that is why these temp sticker work so well. If you ever see them full, then you are in danger of damaging the motors. Just put some temp stickers on your motors and keep an eye on them and you should be fine amzn.to/35gfdbx Do you have any videos of your rig, I'd love to see the "3 legged spider".
@@GYGOtv Hi. Thanks for the temp info. How is it your motors are running hotter after the SFU upgrade? I thought they're supposed to stress the motors less than the old wormgear gearboxes. Is 35 degrees with or without the gas struts?
I think I may be able to get rid of the spider top frame completely as the aluminium profile rig is so solid, I think I can make brackets and attach the gas struts and legs directly (at the new calculated locations) like this guy has done.....ruclips.net/video/5fx_v4epF5M/видео.html
@@paulhitchen4090 DOF said I didn't need the gas struts with the SFU Upgrade... my temp sensors indicated differently and that was the temps NOT using the gas struts. Temps went back down to close to pre-sfu after we reinstalled the gas struts. 35 is with them installed. With old gearboxes they hardly ever registered even 30.
14:38 about the SFU. Week ago I asked about it, as I was unsure that is the SFU gearbox a upgrade only, or is it in-factory upgrade for shipping in the new units since the release of them. And DOF told me that it is *extra* $300 to get the SFU motors to be replacing standard two H2 motors for shipping (so old ones are replaced with the SFU ones).
So how is it?
Yes DOF clarified which units come standard with the SFU and which are needed to be upgraded in the pinned comment below. Sounds like they went up to $300 instead of $200. It is my understanding that the cost increase is due to the increase in cost that DOF is experiencing from their vendors, but I don't know that for sure. In my opinion the SFU upgrade is absolutely needed for the H2, even more so than an H6 because it takes out the slop or slack that the old gearboxes have had forever. The effect with the old gearboxes is slight wiggling as the gears move between the teeth. I never had an H2 so I can't speak from experience but it seems like that is completely gone with the new SFU's. I wouldn't even think twice about the upgrade with the H2 unit. Hope that helps.
@@GYGOtv Thanks for the reply. The quoted $300 extra was the whole addition to the H2 price. So it is now about $2200 for H2, that has three motors and two to be upgraded. And then it would cost additional $300 to it, so $2500 in total to order the H2 with the SFU versions. So it would make it just $150 extra per motor, because you don't buy the old gearboxes and they get to keep them, to sell them to those who don't want the upgrade.
@@katumus Ahh I see. Ya I don't think things are going to get any cheaper going forward so you just have to decide if it's worth it for you. I do know DOF doesn't make a ton of money on each unit so the price increase is likely due to their prices going up too.
Do these cone spacers also eliminate the cogging / juddering that can be had in MSFS when you do fast (for example) pitch changes, the sudden thump sound? Many are doing an actual motor swap in the last few weeks to a 3rd party that sounds like it may eliminate the judder, but im not sure if its the same judder?
Thanks for the question, so the judder that everyone is changing motors for is judder during slow movements in turns, it has to do with Torque Ripple. If you are getting a thump while moving fast, make sure you are not hitting anything. If your arms are hitting the bolts, then these cones could help that. I assume you are using a H6 or P6?
@@GYGOtv Yeah its the h6 sfu, example im in the freedom fox aircraft and if you are cruisin along and do a quick up and down on the pitch, often you get that "thunk" which i think isnt realistic, i called that judder. I mustnt be turning right haha... cause i've not noticed the "cogging" on a turn or maybe i just got used to it
@@markm75Ya I'd check all your bolts and make sure something isn't coming loose. It could possibly be the "rebound" effect that I noticed, the fix for that is here www.tvdr.de/sim/2/power.htm?fbclid=IwAR1Txh-IH6CsYRAdR0pPjFuMzS5KQuHzglHk7Oh8FTgESXG870t0xs8BDl4 but even then it shouldn't "thunk" so check everything closely. As for the turning judder, some people are more sensitive to it than others. For me I can feel it, but I mask it with my Buttkicker so it does not really bother me, but some people it ruins the entire experience for them. Hope you can find that clunk sound.
if i just want an h3 for iracing, do you think i really need the SFU upgrade option? Do i really need to have more movement than the standard gearboxes provide? Any other benefits to the SFU upgrade? Also I am using a quest 2 and I am really concerned about how I am going to do motion compensation. I assume you can limit the motion in the SW if you want? I dont want to use steam open VR, i currently use either oculus or openXR mode. Love the channel, thx!
Thanks for the comment Listen U! Yes you do want the SFU gearboxes for the main motors. You can keep the old gearbox for the Traction Loss if you want to save the money. The big reason is the old gearboxes have "play" between the gears so you get this looseness as the rig rocks slightly with the old gears. With the SFU you have a screw that is rock solid and doesn't have the play. I actually think the SFU is better for the 2/3 series because it fixes that. You certainly can limit motion to your liking with the software. As for motion compensation... I haven't figured out a way to do it without Steam (OpenVR) yet. The program you need to use only works in it as far as I know. There are 2 main methods I've researched... one is with the WitMotion box to create a virtual tracker, and the other uses an actual controller or tracker as a reference. I think SRS is working on a openxr system, but I think that is still a ways off. Anyway hope that helps and thanks again for watching our stuff!
nice work, great idea.... I just FINALLY got my P6 up and running today for the first time. Flying helicopter in DCS but not getting hardly any heave movment when I raise and lower collective, I even maxed heave out under tunning and still nothing... do you fly any helicopters in DCS or just the fa18?
Hi William, I just fly fixed wing in DCS, but I fly heli's in MSFS2020. SO start turning down the number in the "Max Telemetry" box for Heave. Just do a few numbers at a time until you get the feeling you want. Mine is down at 6 in MSFS2020 and I've set it as low as 2 in other sims. Just go in slow steps because it can really bounce you hard if you go too much at once. Hope this helps. If you really want to get a good understanding of what all the setting do in Sim Racing Studio... check out our 2 part videos with Jeff Weaver, we talk about all this stuff in detail. Part 1 ruclips.net/video/pzi8G7T9p7A/видео.html Part 2 ruclips.net/video/LSStkqpIX_M/видео.html They are long format, but filled with info. Enjoy!
@@GYGOtv I did actually try turning down the numbers of Max telemetry, even got into the negative numbers negative 10. Still no reaction. So it kind of looks like maybe they didn't built that into the Apache module.
@@WilliamDeanPlumbing interesting... Ya don't go negative... That inverses the motion. Are you getting heave in other aircraft?
@@GYGOtv I just finally messed with the F-16 and the uh-1 helicopter and it doesn't appear I'm getting heave in either of those, that being all three points raising up simultaneously to lift you straight up or down. Especially when I hit playback and I'm not in the chair I can watch it very closely Its Behavior. And I just don't see it going straight up or straight down. But you would think you would see it much more in a helicopter but I'm not seeing it and either helicopter. Nor can I say I've been able to find a video on RUclips showing it happening.
@@WilliamDeanPlumbing Do you have Elite Dangerous? Thrusting straight up and Down in it certainly moves it. Also, you should feel something if you come in for a hard landing in the F-16 and I certainly can feel it taking off and touching down in MSFS with the chopper there. I assume you have the heave axis on and motion turned up on it so I doubt that is the issue. If you go into SRS and "test" the motion what happens when you move the heave slider up and down?
Mark, I have been looking into an H6 and cant find info regarding mains/outlet power use. I know they ship it for U.S. sockets but how many receptacles are needed to power the unit and do you need to have it on a dedicated circuit by itself? Basically I'm trying to determine if the spot I have in mind is going to work. Much appreciate your time to answer and love your videos.
Mark, I just found your video "DOF Reality H6 Motion Simulator - Part 3: The Core Build" from a year ago where your explain this.
@@oseanmc Glad you found it Sean. I've heard of people using standard outlets but it really depends how your house is wired. I didn't want to take any chances so we did a dedicated line with the 2 independent/isolated plugs.
Great video as always. do you have another source for the 12 spacers, the one link you have is out of stock?
Unfortunately no, I couldn't even find them originally in 10mm. I'd recommend doing a little more looking because 10mm would be better BUT here is a link to what we bought www.ebay.com/itm/165865102485?hash=item269e549c95:g:nJUAAOSwVPFfdKS0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Pl1z%2B18tbQ3cDYF49qVwQd4zdA64lVg%2F1BVy6dPPaqgnsfZvjRdQZkEQMT63I7tIY2qhzI9UxuTk1AULX2Qx1xKn6aoS9UjazWxCtSSuMFJNpYwVYXRqTi3M49L6VWwLSOZlQA7ttTqyaYOOjGBZyis7Mkp%2BO2ga3%2BpVEfRjwFjVITg4VeUrfRNkZRJLWZMSMK5c4UHhhEWO3WymLO%2Fnm4mIJFR%2Bv%2FcWBIee6MIlAtAQPCz2v7ZPUo0ZIJ453UQxVleuC6eXV52HZ0t6VwfAA7IvR0jIzmatVty3WMEppIP%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sh3dSzYQ just note they are 7/16 so you will need to shim them with some cardboard to keep them centered... but they will work. If you do find some other 10mm please let us know here as I'm sure others will need them too. Here is a photo of the cardboard we used (cut into 66mm x 10mm strips) drive.google.com/file/d/1Bu_gJSGAKFRwudezx9txxHJy7EEmIJyx/view?usp=sharing and here is a video of putting them in drive.google.com/file/d/1bntFu_NxJwe-YH9K3wpQvactUjymATxO/view?usp=sharing Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Curious have you ever had motors just stop working while in msfs? With my h6 sfu lately I keep losing l1 and l2, abd also the start test button in srs is always greyed out. I can power cycle things to get the motors back. I can't find an answer I emailed their support. Wondering if there's a log file somewhere
I've had it do something similar a few times in Elite Dangerous but not MSFS. I think it's just a glitch because I did the same thing, reset everything and it all started working again. Not sure about the log file but I'd love to know what you hear back from them.
@@GYGOtv So far they had me take some screen shots from section 5.4 of the manual doing the sine wave function. however, i think i narrowed it down to a problem with just the p42 freedom fox aircraft (maybe).. any chance you have that one? Sitting in the chair in a bout 2 mins with some fierce aerobatics it will lose either 1L/2L or 1R/2R motors for me, tried another aircraft and didnt occur
@@markm75no sorry, don't have that aircraft. At least you have narrowed it down. Good luck, I hope they help you sort it out soon. Appreciate the update.
Hi mate, i bought the h6 based on your recommendation. I will use only for msfs.
Could you point me in the right direction for motion compensation? I bought the festive you recommended but didn't realise it only covers pitch and roll
Hello, first off thank you for trusting my recommendation... I hope you are enjoying your rig so far. So this is actually a bit more complicated than just pointing you toward a part (one of the reasons my video on this topic gets pushed back because there are just so many factors). Anyway, the first question I have for you is what VR Headset are you using, and is it Lighthouse Tracked or Inside Out? Second are you using a transducer like a Buttkicker or anything. Let me know about these things and I can help you a bit more. Thanks and I look forward to hearing back from you.
@@GYGOtv unbelievably quick reply man...I use varjo aero with base station.
The h6 hasn't been delivered yet but I have ordered all the washers and neoprene that you recommend in preparation
@@willbennett1359 You caught me when I was online... not always this fast at replying but I'm glad I can help! SO, if you want the best Motion Compensation currently, it is still using a vive or index controller and using it to cancel out the movement. This is the process I use and it works great EXCEPT if you have any Buttkicker or other transducer, it will cause vibration or shaking in your headset if you don't mitigate it. I basically have my controller mounted to the back of my seat with a lot of rubber isolators and some heavy metal plate and it kills about 90% of the vibration. Then the software I use kills about another 10% or so. If you email me at GYGOmail@gmail.com I can send you some photos of my setup. The software you need will depend on if you are using OpenXR or SteamVR but both basically use the same controller system mentioned above. Our good friend Jeff Weaver did a video on this years ago but it will still give you a good baseline to understand this method. Here is a link to his video... ruclips.net/video/1MqGO46xdtI/видео.html Please let me know if you have any other questions and WELCOME TO THIS AMAZING WORLD OF MOTION!!!
Great videos Mark. I just received my P3 from DOF and having issues with parts. Not getting any reply from them in support and I was wondering if I could ask a few questions of you. Thanks.
Sure Jim, but I haven't ever built the 3-Series. BTW, Are you emailing sales@dofreality(dot)com? They are usually really good at returning emails quickly.
Thanks mark. I have purchased a P3 with the SFU upgrade and just got the unit so a bit of a newb still but having big time issues with the assembly. Missing parts, and it looks like maybe not even the right motors. All the videos showed the SFU motors with an Orange/red motor to gearbox coupler. The main 2 motors I received just have a straight coupler with no insert. Is it possible I received the non-SFU motors? Also, the 3rd yaw motor was not attached to the frame as shown in all assembly videos. Separate with an additional rod attached to the gearbox and the motor separate almost like it was for a P6. Any thoughts on these two things would help. Thanks
@@jimmarko-qf8qy Feel free to email me some photos of the parts if you would like. SO the SFU gearboxes are very obvious, they have the big screws sticking out. It you go back and look at my early videos, you will see what the old gearboxes look like... they have small lever sticking out the side of a box with ribs on it. I'm not sure about the coupler... DOF is constantly iterating on the design so that might be the case here. What I'd recommend is you join the DOFRealityBuilders Facebook Group facebook.com/groups/1858593921047822 if you haven't already. They are very helpful and someone there should be able to give you the latest insight into what's going on. They are my go to group when I have issues. Hope that helps.
Great video Mark. Please do a video on motion compensation options soon.
We are sorting through it all right now so I'll try to get it filmed once we settle on a final setup. Still working out a few bugs on our design and still have a few more vibrations to try and cancel out. I can tell you it is pretty cool when you have it working. Are you running any transducers on your setup?
@@GYGOtv Thanks Mark. I do not, but noticed I might need motion compensation since the SFU. Didn't have any issue before the upgrade. The SFU was still worth it.
@@pchow6829 Well motion comp will work great for that. What headset are you using?
@@GYGOtv HP gen 2. Best headset for the money
@@pchow6829 Especially if you get it for $299 :)
Wait, the motors still get hot even though you upgraded to the SFU gearbox. I thought one of the advantages of going SFU is that one does not have to worry about motors getting hot?
We still overheated without the struts... The gearboxes are more efficient but you obviously can still have issues if you overload based on our experience.
Have you seen the YAW 2 motion simulator? If so, what do you think about it? It's only 3 dof but it moves a whole lot more in flight sims.
Yes I have seen that Louis, thanks for the question. So I love the idea of how far back it pitches but in my opinion the Yaw axis (which is one of it's key selling points) is one of the least needed, and I think Heave is a much better axis because it is what lets you feel the landing. I've heard they are developing a "Heave Module" That goes under it, so that would be a necessity IMO. You will probably want to go wireless with the headset because the full Yaw will lead to tangled wires. I've also heard the prices are going up and delivery is still an issue with them. My final concern is I don't see a really good way to mount all your HOTAS equipment on there AND still be easy to climb in and out of. But don't get me wrong, I do think the experience would be amazing... Let me know if you get one and what you think! Hope that answers your question.
Great video! Quick question, so if I buy a H3 now will I be getting the SFU with the H3 as standard? For the same price? Or have they increased the price? Because on their website there is no mention of this. The SFU are still at 200 bucks separately on there. Please let me know before I place a order. Thanks
Hi Usman, I only asked about the Series 6 models so your best bet to be sure is to email DOF Reality and ask them directly. It is my understanding that they eventually want to transition solely to SFU's but don't know the status on the 3 Series currently. Please feel free to let us know if you find out anything definitively and thanks for watching.
I pinned the answer to the top of the page, hope that helps clarify. I'd recommend getting the $200 upgrade with the H3, it is a noticeable improvement from what I understand.
Hi, i have just bought a h6. At times, there is a drop on a motor either in the front and back when moving fast from one side to the other. Dof said it was due to overtorque. I think the load is below 270 pounds. I am 6ft tall, 190 pounds dressed. Seat is below 40 pounds. Then the usual, pedals and wheels, shifter, vr. Does it mean i need the gas struts?
Well congrats on your H6 first and foremost. As far as gas struts go, DOF Reality and I differ on our opinion. They say you don't need them unless you are over 300 lbs. In my mind, they will always help lift the rig easier hence faster movement on heave and I don't really see a downside to having them on. I think they may possibly help your issue. You may also be experiencing the issue found here www.tvdr.de/sim/2/power.htm?fbclid=IwAR0STVuQ8_Zi1jPNvDdburh4WrkrKInig67yBNd0K0Rdrk8PXQXMv2DzMkI I haven't done this fix yet but it is on my "to do" list at some point. Hope this helps and thanks for watching GYGO!
Thx for your prompt response.... i ll check... Your channel helped me a lot with my decision to purchase the H6. Great job! I also have the pimax crystal. I am dealing with an issue with openxr motion compensation srs witmotion combo. The roll and pitch work pretty well but the surge is not compensated at all. It is like i move back in the seat each time i accelerate in dcf or msfs. Maybe it is something you can go in detail in a dedicated video when your time permits. GOD BLESS YOU.
@@tsdpassionHappy to help, glad you are finding the content informative! So the problem you are having is because the Witmotion/SRS combo does not compensate for those axis from what I've see testing it. It does a good job with H2/H3 but not for the H6. If you are planning to get the lighthouse setup for the Pimax, there might be built in Motion Compensation in there. You can see it by accessing the hidden menu (CTRL+Q in the "device settings" section) but it looks like you will need to use a lighthouse based controller. I plan to test it, but my Lighthouse Faceplate won't be here until October. Hope that helps and thanks again for watching!
@GYGOtv hi there. were you able to test motion compensation with the lighthouse with the crystal? I got mine today with one htc base 2.0 and vibe tracker 3.0. I activated the option in pimax client with the ctrl q hidden menu. Well, it does not compensate well at all when i pitch or roll the h6 simulator. It only works with heave, lateral, or forward, backward motion.... so it is unusable.
So i tried instead the openxr motion compensation software and selected vibe as tracker in the config file instead of srs. But when the compensation activates in a game, it says error and does compensate at all.
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@@tsdpassionBeen trying for about 3 weeks now but my faceplate was defective and Pimax is taking another week to get me a replacement. Trust me, I'm VERY interested to see how well it works. Stay tuned, I'll let you know once all is working. Thanks for the question.
If you had purchased the P3, would there be any modifications you expect would apply there too? Is it safe to say that all the time and effort you've spent tweaking would not be necessary if you'd have bought the P3?
Hi jchief40... So having never had a 3 series, I can't definitively answer that, but in theory, you would still probably ideally want some form of cone spacer on it to maximize travel of the tierod ends and keep them from binding. DOF usually recommends stacking washers, but I think cone spacers are a better option. Probably not as critical because the frame likely doesn't interfere like the 6 series does, but you still want to free up movement as much as possible. If anyone out there has a 3-Series and agrees or disagrees, please comment below as again I'm just guessing based on what I have seen. Thanks for the question.
damn gabe newells brother spending that valve money on the setup :D
HEY HEY... that is the first "Gabe Newell's Brother" comment I've had! Usually they just call me Gabe Newell. I would have preferred "Gabe's more handsome brother" but O'well. Thanks for stopping by... And I guess legally I have to say here that I'm not related to Gabe Newell... and if I had valve money then you would see an even more impressive rig :)
Hi Mark, I have the old H6 and did get the upgrade done last week. I too experience the motor overshooting problem, it never happened before. and it happens on i feel like all 6 motors occasionally, how are you dealing with it? did putting back the 3 lift rod back help anything?
Congrats on the upgrade zmbob!!! I think the struts did help a little but they helped more with our overheating problem. Someone did determine the issue wit the "rebound" I just haven't had a chance to modify mine yet, but seems like this should do the trick. www.tvdr.de/flightsim/power.htm?fbclid=IwAR0UODVe9J6RFrnDbZcUZKkERGnrC1nH4W7bwrJ5jrCu0bZftOGIzicD14Q Good luck, and of course I'll do a video once I have done this too. I'm still knee deep in motion compensation right now so first things first. Thanks for the question.
@@GYGOtv OMG I think this is amazing! how do ppl figure this out like this. Opened up my eyes!. OK i think i will try to mod this too. Motion is defiantly much more with this SFU upgrade, the motion compensation should be a must. I brought the new monitor stand and upgraded thicker wheel stand from DOF, i will try to put a Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 on the rig see how it goes, I don't have those lift rods installed on the rig right now, but after putting the monitor on the rig, i may need them too. Thanks for the link Mark!
@@GYGOtv oh, one more thing, the P6 and H6 using different motor, i wonder with this mod, the Schottky Diodes maybe different? p6 use (30A 50V)
@@zmbob That is a great question... I hadn't considered that. My guess is it should work with the same diodes... but I might be wrong as this is out of my area of expertise. Anyone out there have any solid thoughts on this?
@@GYGOtv update I just did the mod.
I purchased exactly the same parts, and I put them on and they worked! No more over shooting! Only a 1 hour or less mod. Very easy to do.
Great video Mark! I have a H6 with the exact same setup (SFU upgrade with struts) but I'm finding I'm having to leave my motor boxes running all the time in order to keep the platform from careening awkward different directions due to the struts once the H6 is powered off. Have you run into this & if so what has been your solution?
Hey Curtis thanks for the comment and the compliment, so you do not want to keep your boxes on all the time because the motors will continue to do "micro adjustments" and they will get hot. I don't know if you have temp strips on yours, but a few times I have accidently left mine powered on and I do indeed see a rise in temps. Realistically once I'm done and out of the rig... I just turn it off and let it do its thing. If the position bugs you, you can easily grab the frame and slide it where ever you want it. If you didn't have the gas struts on it, it would still settle weirdly, it would just go down instead of up with the struts. One note, I think some of the bending of the old levers was due to turning the unit off while I was still in it, or trying to get into it without the power on. Basically I just started turning it on anytime I'm getting in OR out and then power everything off once I'm totally finished using it. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@GYGOtv One thing I've been doing for this issue is to go to the SRS app, setup tab, start test, click on the heave button and drag it to the left. Then shut down power to the unit. This puts it on the lowest level for all the motors/gears. You can then get on and off the unit without it moving.
@@pchow6829 Great idea, I may have to start doing that too.
Hi it's me again. I told you I ordered the H2 platform, they dropped one box off and the other box got stuck in customs and went back and forth between Memphis and Gastonia four times before I got it straightened out. Also had to send the power supply box back because it was everything was broken off and floating around inside the power supply box, so that's on the way from dof. Anyway my question is even though I ordered the H2 with the SFU setup and they told me I would have the newest version available, they sent me new different shafts to install in the little gearbox. I did install them but they did not say where to set them or anything and I was wondering do the motors and gearbox control arms self Center the gearbox when you finally turn it on for the first time which I cannot do because I don't have the power supply box. I have ask dof into emails but they did not answer back. So I put it on Facebook group and they told me to watch this video of yours that it would explain everything. But obviously it does not answer the question that I have about will the motors self Center because they have been detached from the gearboxes and dof did not say any certain place to reinstall them. Hope this makes sense because I am really upset, they told me I would have the latest and greatest was the actual words and the minute I got it I had to tear it apart to change the warm drive shafts. And I don't know when I'll be getting the power supply box. I would send a picture but I do not think you can. Thank you for your continued help and support I really appreciate it.
Hey Nashfan, If you have the new drive shafts then you do have the "latest and greatest" from my understanding. Those were only going out to the pilot customers as far as I know. I don't really officially know about the new units but if you have the latest digital encoders it should auto calibrate when you start it up. The way you can tell is if you have little black boxes off the back of each motor... those are the new digital encoders. You might reach out to DOF again for the specific setup as I don't know what it is for the new shafts yet... I understand you have tried to reach them with no luck but honestly they are the only ones who can tell you specifically what to do. Once I get up to speed on all this I'll know more but for now these new shafts are so new that few have experience with them. You can always email photos to me at my email in the description if you want to. Wish I could help more, and I will be able to later but for now that is the best I can do. Hope it helps a little.
@GYGOtv hi thank you for your response. There is a little black cover maybe 1 inch by 1 and 1/4 inch where the wires come out is that what you mean? Wish I was as tech-savvy as you say Mars but it's 68 years old I probably should have never taken this project on but I hope it works out. is there a way to send a picture? thank you!
@@GYGOtv this is the one I have without the metal cover. Are those encoder motors? ruclips.net/video/_bFt2nUOyO0/видео.html Thank you for your help, this is a tough journey for me. Also now I hear that mt HP reverb 2 wont work soon due to ms doing away with WMR. What timing I have! I may eventually get a quest 3 after get some extra cash saved up and get this DOF running. But even the Quest 3 seems like a nightmare to get up and running. oh my! Thank you for your help, you are the best!
@@nashfan1000So the "digital encoder" replaces our old analog sensor, it is not the actual motor. The benefit is you don't have to calibrate them like I do on mine. I think once you get everything up and running you will find it has been worth all the hassle, at least that is what most have determined. SO you do have the latest and it should all self calibrate once you start it up. As for your Reverb G2, just don't update your Windows and you will be fine for awhile. I'm hearing conflicting stories if the update actually removes the software or just stops supporting it. One of my users says it worked fine after the update so I'm trying to verify this with others. Hopefully we will hear something more definitive soon. You should still find out from DOF if there are any other steps you need to do since you replaced the shafts. I've been told there is a firmware upgrade that goes with that but I don't know if DOF already did that for you or not. They really are the only ones who can answer that. If you continue to be unable to contact them, please email me your order number and I'll see what I can do. Also you can email me directly with photos etc... my email is always in the description of the video.
@@GYGOtvdof told me that since they had to replace the power supply unit that the firmware update would be completed when I got it, hopefully😊 thank you so much for always answering me you have no idea how much I appreciate it feel kind of lost and this project except for the help you've been giving me like I said it's very appreciated thank you
I was debating dofreality or eracing rs mega+ actuators . Just went with the actuators. Hopefully I made the right decision lol.
Any motion is good motion in my opinion. I don't know much about eracing, but actuators in general are a good choice... just usually more expensive to get to 6dof. Let me know how you like it when you get it, and congrats!
@@GYGOtv yea 3k after shipping for 4 actuators. I thought it was a good deal . The reviews online seem good. A littler better than paying 7.5k for dbox lol.
@@CaliCuh Yep, you can certainly spend money on this hobby for sure. Are you mostly racing or flying?
@@GYGOtv racing only
@@CaliCuh Actuators are good for that for sure. You will get all the subtle movements and good fidelity out of that system. Looking forward to hearing how you like it.
where are you?
I'm right here :) Colorado, USA
@@GYGOtvdo you do consulting? I'm south of Denver and thought maybe you could provide some hands-on experience. I'm wondering if an assembly video from start, mod installs, then finish would be worthwhile.
@@puckernet8155 Hi puckernet... never really thought about the consulting thing, tell me more what you are thinking? As far as an assembly video, that would be a huge project. Just the SFU upgrade video took a lot of work so not sure that would be feasible, especially since my rig it together now and I really wouldn't want to take it apart. Honestly, it is not that difficult to put together anyway... we just followed the instructions and used some common sense where the instructions were vague. Anyway, I always recommend people join the DOF Reality Facebook group ( facebook.com/groups/1858593921047822 ) as well, they are an amazing resource and are very helpful with assembly questions. Hope that helps and thanks for the question.
All that amazing gear and you got a lil Logitech G920 on it? Lol crazy bro…
HeyArnold, I don't know what the HELL you are talking about... It is a G27!!!! LOL This is a tired old observation and I've talked about the reasons why several times, you can get the answer to why here if you are interested ruclips.net/video/zlGQ3N_1LAg/видео.html Thanks for watching.
@@GYGOtv Hey, to each his own …Just seems like an odd choice to make for a motion rig.. there’s a HUGE level of realism being left on the table by going with that wheel. S’all I’m sayin bruh.
Something like this would be a good option:
ruclips.net/video/jXGKdk6apRo/видео.html
@@Drift-Daddy Actually I've heard you should go with a Direct Drive over something like that... I think the option you posted is leaving a "HUGE level of realism" on the table over a Direct Drive :)
BTW I'm just funnin' with you Arnold, I enjoy the banter. Thanks for watching the content and for commenting. Appreciate it.
@@GYGOtv Bro you’re a clown..anything would be better than a g27.
@@Drift-Daddy As you said, to each their own... I still like my g27 :)