I love how you guys take cars apart to better polish or apply paint protection film. I get nervous removing wiper blades. Aside from that you literally have a Lamborghini scion in the studio. My goodness. These vehicles aren’t just everywhere. Kudos!
Nice one. What's your preferred method for Controlling residue on the pad between sections or panels? Blowing out the pads with compressed air, using a brush on the pad at lower speed, wiping the pads with clean microfibre towels or replacing pads often between sections/panels?
No need to on foam...just switch out your pad regularly (every panel). On something like a microfiber pad, you can blow them out with air between panels if you like, or simply swap them out with clean ones more often.
Rinse it off with the hose, scrub it with a brush, then stick it on the polisher, turn to high spin and spin out water. Brand new clean pad ready to go. No need to buy multiple. Did my entire vehicle this way with one pad, looks absolutely incredible. I had extremely heavy swirls and now my car looks like it's showroom ready. .
@@CyberSkunk90 , Thanks, I actually do that exact process as you mentioned. Just needed to speed up processes a bit more so multiple pads help in terms of efficiency. ( as long as its within the budget)
Great as always. After that, is the car ready for coating/sealing/waxing? Under any particular circumstance do you perform a third step? I have seen some people doing: 1. Compounding 2. Polishing 3. Jeweling. Saludos desde México!
From what I know, Esoteric typically uses 2 steps, the ones Todd displays here. I believe this is because of the nature of Sonax Perfect Finish. This is a diminishing polish, which means the abrasive particles break down once you start polishing, essentially having less correcting power and more finishing/jeweling "finesse" the longer you work it (to a certain degree of couse). If anyone knows it better than I do, feel free to correct me!
Yes, it would be ready for your final protection. Our take on (most) 3-step polishing is this...if you're gaining anything by doing a "jeweling" step, then you're doing something wrong in compounding and / or polishing processes!
Hello Todd. Question regarding tool choice. What are your thoughts on the Mille and do you ever use it? I know a gear driven tool has a tendency to “walk” but the DA has a tendency to “Stall. Seems like the gear driven Mille could get the job done faster while still maintaining a high level finish. Any insight is appreciated.
Hi , thanks for your video You did use different compound and polish for your wool pad and yellow foam ? How do you know how much pressure you put on the Rupes ? Rule of thumb ? Many thanks
Yes...a compound for the heavy cut pad, then switch to a polish for the finishing process. You may want to check out our upcoming online training at: www.esotericdetail.com/education
That's not something to answer quickly in a reply. We have a lot of great videos on the process, and I would recommend at least starting with this video: ruclips.net/video/G-1YIb3KuSo/видео.html
is it normal to cut and then finish the same panel all at the same time? I was under the impression that you would correct the entire car, then go ahead and finish the entire car?
We would normally do all of the correction first, then finishing. When doing test / evaluation sections, you'll want to do your entire process to verify you're achieving desired results.
Hi todd as you have mentioned in the video pads are one of the biggest expenses, do you have any experience with the sonax DA yellow pads? If so how does it compare to the rupes da yellow pads?
How many of the micro fiber pads do you typically go through for one car in these 2 step details? I know you've said at least 6 foam pads for each car in the past....IIRC.... not sure I've seen you cover the MF pads???
Compounds are only used as the first step in a multi-step process. With that, we would be using Jescar correcting compound, followed by Sonax Perfect Finish Polish. Sonax is also used as our one-step process.
What gets me is to pay mega dollar's for a car like that and have to do paint correction blows my mind. You'd think those kind of manufactures would pay more attention to the finish.
I normally never go above speed above 2500 hundred and pressure of 5 to 6 pounds. Obviously I have found that the most important thing I am using is the product for whatever I am trying to achieve. I will always use the finest product, the slowest buffer speed and slowest arm speed and lightest pressure to achieve my goal. It's normally clear coat respect it. Good luck to everyone 😁👍
I love how you guys take cars apart to better polish or apply paint protection film. I get nervous removing wiper blades. Aside from that you literally have a Lamborghini scion in the studio. My goodness. These vehicles aren’t just everywhere. Kudos!
Thanks for posting these videos with outstanding information !
Great video. I use the same combination of pads and polishes; and the results are always amazing. Keep up the good work.
That was a pretty cool video. 👌
Straight to the point. Thank you.
Nice one. What's your preferred method for Controlling residue on the pad between sections or panels? Blowing out the pads with compressed air, using a brush on the pad at lower speed, wiping the pads with clean microfibre towels or replacing pads often between sections/panels?
No need to on foam...just switch out your pad regularly (every panel). On something like a microfiber pad, you can blow them out with air between panels if you like, or simply swap them out with clean ones more often.
@@Esotericdetail , Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Rinse it off with the hose, scrub it with a brush, then stick it on the polisher, turn to high spin and spin out water. Brand new clean pad ready to go. No need to buy multiple. Did my entire vehicle this way with one pad, looks absolutely incredible. I had extremely heavy swirls and now my car looks like it's showroom ready. .
@@CyberSkunk90 , Thanks, I actually do that exact process as you mentioned. Just needed to speed up processes a bit more so multiple pads help in terms of efficiency. ( as long as its within the budget)
Great video once again! Thanks, Ed!
Wow. That color. As usual, superb video! Thanks for sharing this !
Just when I was about to try out Gyeon compound and primer, now i want to go back to the Jescar Sonax pair.
Spot ON!! If you'll pardon the pun... anything that will eliminate variables and reduce products and costs in SPOT ON with me!
My experience has been white or black ⚫ pad less pressure, it's hard to be consistent with pressure easy to control products 🤔😁
Great as always. After that, is the car ready for coating/sealing/waxing? Under any particular circumstance do you perform a third step? I have seen some people doing: 1. Compounding 2. Polishing 3. Jeweling. Saludos desde México!
From what I know, Esoteric typically uses 2 steps, the ones Todd displays here. I believe this is because of the nature of Sonax Perfect Finish. This is a diminishing polish, which means the abrasive particles break down once you start polishing, essentially having less correcting power and more finishing/jeweling "finesse" the longer you work it (to a certain degree of couse).
If anyone knows it better than I do, feel free to correct me!
Yes, it would be ready for your final protection. Our take on (most) 3-step polishing is this...if you're gaining anything by doing a "jeweling" step, then you're doing something wrong in compounding and / or polishing processes!
Are you compounding entire car and then following up with finish? Or piggy backing compound/ finish on each application area? TIA
Compound the entire car first, then finish polish in most cases.
awesome!
Hello Todd. Question regarding tool choice. What are your thoughts on the Mille and do you ever use it? I know a gear driven tool has a tendency to “walk” but the DA has a tendency to “Stall. Seems like the gear driven Mille could get the job done faster while still maintaining a high level finish. Any insight is appreciated.
Hi , thanks for your video
You did use different compound and polish for your wool pad and yellow foam ? How do you know how much pressure you put on the Rupes ? Rule of thumb ? Many thanks
Yes...a compound for the heavy cut pad, then switch to a polish for the finishing process. You may want to check out our upcoming online training at: www.esotericdetail.com/education
Sir,can you tell me what is the steps of paint correction?Thank you
That's not something to answer quickly in a reply. We have a lot of great videos on the process, and I would recommend at least starting with this video: ruclips.net/video/G-1YIb3KuSo/видео.html
Amazing result!
Do you prefer jescar compound or sonax ultimate cut?
Jescar...
Medium polishers gives a good finish these days, would you skip the refinish stage to save time or it's not anymore essential?
I'm not sure I follow your question...
No beast backing plate?
is it normal to cut and then finish the same panel all at the same time? I was under the impression that you would correct the entire car, then go ahead and finish the entire car?
Not normal. This was just a test spot.
We would normally do all of the correction first, then finishing. When doing test / evaluation sections, you'll want to do your entire process to verify you're achieving desired results.
@@Esotericdetail thank you
Hi todd as you have mentioned in the video pads are one of the biggest expenses, do you have any experience with the sonax DA yellow pads? If so how does it compare to the rupes da yellow pads?
Perhaps a long time ago, but have not worked with them in some time now.
How many of the micro fiber pads do you typically go through for one car in these 2 step details? I know you've said at least 6 foam pads for each car in the past....IIRC.... not sure I've seen you cover the MF pads???
About a half dozen each of 5" and 3"
When polishing painted bumper part can we use same speed or we have to lower speed?
We typically run the same speeds!
What compound do you guys use for one and two step?
Compounds are only used as the first step in a multi-step process. With that, we would be using Jescar correcting compound, followed by Sonax Perfect Finish Polish. Sonax is also used as our one-step process.
What gets me is to pay mega dollar's for a car like that and have to do paint correction blows my mind. You'd think those kind of manufactures would pay more attention to the finish.
It doesn't matter how good a manufacturer could possibly do from the factory. By the time it gets to the final destination, it's going to have issues!
I normally never go above speed above 2500 hundred and pressure of 5 to 6 pounds. Obviously I have found that the most important thing I am using is the product for whatever I am trying to achieve. I will always use the finest product, the slowest buffer speed and slowest arm speed and lightest pressure to achieve my goal. It's normally clear coat respect it. Good luck to everyone 😁👍
Sanding marks on brand new car fuck.
#normal