Remove the rear wheel then the brake caliper. Place the caliper back onto the brake disc at the top with the bleed nipple again at the top. You can then pump the npedal all you like. the pads will simpoly go and bit the disc
Great video I bought a new multi and toured for 12 months around North America . Some days I rode 1,000 or more. No dealer could explain why my brakes sucked. I even ran through stop signs because I couldn’t stop . This explains so much . Thanks for making this video
Here is a heads up for other riders. I bought a used bike and had to adjust to riding it. I recently put new tires and put pads on and of course, bled the brakes finding air in the rear brake line. All was good and had more brake peddle than I knew what to do with. Next was a crash on a highway ramp that I have gone down many times. What happened? I couldn't understand why I would have this happen... until... I remembered the spongy rear brake I had. I used the same pressure that I would have with the old brakes and the back wheel locked up while the front wheel went into a gravel patch and down we went! So, If you have this spongy thing for brakes and you get them bled and fixed remember to give yourself time to adjust to the new brakes. This is one time I wished I had antilock brakes.
I did this brake bleed for what seems like the hundredth time. This time a little differently. Instead of suspending the caliper on the exhaust side of the bike, I passed the caliper back through the wheel to the left side and I was able to get the caliper much higher, almost to the height of the pillion seat. The result was cable and caliper were all elevated nicely with no horizontal run in the cable. It worked really wel and was the best and fastest bleed so far. I had to remove the plastic hood covering the cables to get the caliper up that high. I used SRF again. The rear brake is still turning to mush but taking a lot longer to do so. Thanks again for the tip on the bleed technique and the SRF fluid!
Very well done! You are right on the money. Have been riding Mulitstrada's hard in the mountains since 2012 and have come to accept that nothing I have tried really holds up more than a few thousand miles as far as rear brake feel. As soon as I watched your video I ordered the Castrol React SRF Racing Brake Fluid. I received it in less than 24 hours and immediately flushed the system. With a 2019 Multi1260s, I found it easier to simply remove the rear wheel. No way to properly use a torque wrench to get to 33nm to the socket head cap screws that hold on the caliper with the wheel on. Great video, Thank you!
Thank you so much. Helped me with my Ducati Monster 1200s. Removed the caliper and raised it above the slave to get a successful bleed. Refitted it and it is perfect. Ducati very good looking, but will test your will power at times 😁
Had crappy rear brake, but now with castrol react srf racing it's back!! Did however remove the rear wheel, this made it a lot easier to do, but you have to remove all the rear guard and other bits. Get a bud to hold the calliper ash high as possible (can get it well above seat hight). Only took 4-5 fill ups (which is not a lot) just to make sure all the old fluid was cleared. All cool now!!
Excellent video... I do exactly what the guy does to suspend the calliper when bleeding. In addition I put a shim the thickness of the disc between the pads to check for a firm peddle and then don’t have to push the pads back and remove excess fluid from the reservoir.
Excellent video!!! I struggled with the rear brake on my Multi since it was new in 2013. Last year I found Bel Ray’s dot 4 brake fluid which has worked VERY well. I might have to switch it to this stuff next.
Hi, Thanks for the clear explanation of the issue & your solution, after multiple bleeding exercises and placing an heatshield between master cylinder and mounting, this will be my next action, before totally upgrading the rear brake system. The 2015 version has an upgraded rear brake system.
Not likely. You'd have to find a way to shield the entire system, including the rear master cylinder, which bolts directly to the frame and is super close to the cat too.
Glad to have you back. I'm imagining you have done a little track time and a lot of riding in the last coupe of years. Would love to hear about your hiatus from youtube. Also, who do you refer to when you say "we"? Another well done and practical video. Thank you for your for being such an excellent contributor to the motorcycle community, from a fellow MTS owner.
Haha! Yeah, it's good to be back. Thanks! And when I say we, I'm talking about the dozen or so people that are behind every one of these videos. "We" research each topic, get perspectives from experts and bounce ideas of each other to keep the content on point, concise and accurate. Most of whom have no interest in being on camera, but I'm going to throw out the names of those who help the most. Mike, Brian, Chris, Kris, Kory, Don, Warren, Scott, Roy, Rick, Shirley and of course, Chase the dog! :)
Great video very informative - Alternatively: Dot 5 is silicon based - hydrophobic, great heat range- been on my 2010 Multi for 30k miles - still stopping (15 bucks ). Just thouroughly flush old fluid 'cause it does not like to mix with the glycol based ones at all.
Since I removed my catalytic converter my rear brake has been fine. I switched to castrol srf but with the cat removed I believe motul rbf 660 will work too
I know this vid is now 2 years old but the good news is Ducati are keeping it current and relevant. The fluid in my rear brake and also the clutch on my 2020 V4S went black after just one ride in slow traffic - lots of red lights where, without air flow, the fluids get cooked. I note that on forums some are recommending Dot 5 fluid. I don't know anything about brakes (this video has been very helpful) and a lot of people who offer advice on forums know less than me so I was wondering if you can advise if Dot 5 is a valid solution?
Dot5 won't solve the problem. Well even worse than that. DOT 5.1 and DOT 4 are both glycol based fluids. DOT 5 is silicone based and not compatible at all. DOT 5.1 has slightly higher wet and dry boiling points, but the Castrol SRF is still quite a bit higher than that.
Really useful and complete vídeo. Thank you for explanation. I dont understand 20k € or $ bike and didnt realize about boiling problems in rear brake circut. Buffff!
I'm thinking about putting 12mm of Aerogel under my brake lines. That should prevent almost all heat transfer from the Cat. Or maybe I'll try some Space Shuttle tiles.
great video. I have had 2 MTS over the last decade, both with the same problem. It seems you are saying this problem is related to heat. So if this is the case, wouldn't the rear brake work initially when the bike is turned on and still "cold"? the rear brake is mushy from the get go regarding of engine temperature
I have a Diavel which seems very similar. Would I get the same results if I did't pull off the caliper and just hooked up my Mity Vac, and then put a weight on the brake pedal overnight to assist bleeding?
Our experience is that weighting the brake lever doesn't really accomplish anything. As soon as you start riding, air bubbles just move back into the system. You don't have to remove the caliper, but you'll get a better bleed by putting the bleed nipple at the highest point to encourage all the air to get out of the system.
Hi . Just wondering if you guys have any ideas about my 2011 multistrada . I have a rear rebound warning light on my dash . And can't think why it's come on . Or indeed what to do about it.
Hello and thanks for the video. I have a question: for a standard bike use and therefore not racing is this oil okay? how often should it be changed? every 2 years as per manual? do you feel the difference using this castrol? Thanks again
Thanks for the help. However, @CanyonChasers, in order to save money AND resources would it be more than OK to go for the Motul stuff should you live and ride in dry areas eg. Arizona, Dubai, AUS and the like? Looking fwrd for your expert advice
Great video however the DVTMULTI (2015-on) has a larger caliper and spokes so can't get the caliper through to the other side of the bike. Wheel will have to come off.
Due to some injuries, I haven't been riding for the last few years and my 2013 MTS has sat with a fresh bleed of Castrol SRF. After the first year of just sitting, the rear brake went to mush again. So, on my bike, I think I have an additional/separate issue. Do you have any tips for troubleshooting? Is this also somewhat normal for this model? When freshly bled and regularly ridden, the rear brake stays working just fine. It is only while sitting that the rear brake goes bad. Any help appreciated. Thank you. P.S. I can only obtain a good bleed by disconnecting the rear brake caliper and elevating it while bleeding.
Even sitting, the brake fluid will still take on water, even though at a much slower rate. We've noticed that if we are stuck riding in a bunch of rain, the rear brake will turn to mush almost immediately. It's for sure a problem with most modern Ducati's. The SRF is the only workable solution we've found, even many years after publishing this video.
Alternatively: Dot 5 is silicon based - hydrophobic, great heat range- been on my 2010 Multi for 30k miles - still stopping (15 bucks ). Just thouroughly flush old fluid 'cause it does not like to mix with the glycol based ones at all. Will store indefinitely with out water absorbtion since its silicon based.
Ducati rear brakes IMO have a couple issues... the first is exactly what's covered here (cooking the fluid). BUT... once you address that with better fluid, you're going to find that while the pedal is not as mushy... it still takes a LOT of effort to get the sort of braking effort you might be used to on other bikes. IMO the rear brake master cylinder is undersized resulting in a large force required to get substantial braking. I've just gotten used to using more force (or just letting linked braking do their thing).
@@CanyonChasers Makes me wonder if the linked braking MC is ALSO undersized so the rear doesn't do anything when using linked brakes. Luckily the M50's up front are fantastic and when you're on them hard the rear can't do much anyway... certainly not when the rear is in the air anyway. ;-)
Any idea if this still carried over to newer model bikes? I have that same mushy feeling in the rear on my 2019 Hypermotard. Should I give this a try? I’ve already tried bleeding with a motul fluid and it was literally better for only about 10 miles. Then went back to super mushy.
Dealership claims this high temp is not the problem, even with the high temp fluid. He states guys in South who have year long riding season have no problem, the guys in North see a soft brake after it sits all winter. Also the rear brake caliper is inverted with the nipple pointed down much lower than master cylinder. Next flush I'll have the SRF Racing brake fluid. I'll give an update
It is entirely possible - but before throwing $70 at a bottle of brake fluid, try flushing your rear brake with some quality Motul brake fluid first. See if that solves it.
I have the very same issue on my Monster. flushed the line twice, replaced the rear master cylinder. all warranty work under a master Ducati tech....A year later , same issue again. Back brake doesn’t brake.
Is the ABS pump on top of the engine like the Diavel? That's my main complaint about modern ducati Brake systems. Totally idiotic placement of the ABS so you have bubbles that go all the way up there. This makes bleeding time consuming and irritating compared to the old 1098/SF.
Yep. Same place. It's under the seat. If you have a compressor and can use a Pneumatic bleeder ( amzn.to/2EWYfNn ) then that becomes much less of an issue. But if you do it the old fashioned way, then it's a PITA. We even put a bleeder valve on the ABS pump to get air out, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
The brake fluid will have a higher wet boiling point regardless of the wheel/caliper size. Perhaps you have another problem, like a damaged brake line or faulty rear master cyclinder?
@@CanyonChasers the problem is I can't put the caliper out through the spokes' whell. when you do it looks straightforward but on my 1260 it's impossible...
We looked into that - and may still explore it further. There just isn't a good way to re-route the lines to keep them far enough away the heat. The swingarm becomes a giant heat-sync. We could space the lines out from the swingarm and wrap them with heat shielding, but honestly, expensive brake fluid starts looking better and better the more you look at it.
On a Yam xt660r the brake us similarly routed to the r/h/s pipe. I used aluminium (aluminum) duct tape on the lines and stopped it boiling on steep mountain descents.
Unknown Yes. Replaced master cylinder was the ‘cause’- under warranty. 1 yr later back to mushiness and it always happens over Winter - mushy in the Spring.
Same in my new xdiavel. This is not mentioned nowhere in manuals? Ducati sell you expensive bikes knowing you will pick up the problem eventually with apparent wrong spec oil mentioned in this video. Why should I bleed breaks every fckn month? Missing my ninja and decency of Japanese.
HI. I have a Monster 1200 R for one season now and the rear brake just gone mushy. Will try bleeding the brake fluid and see. Thanks Anyone else had that issue on a monster 1200 ?
Love the videos man! I'm going to try this fluid out on my 2015 1200s. Can bleed nipples be installed on the 2015+ models ABS unit as well. Would love to see a video on that. Also, roughly how long would you expect stock rotors to last on my 1200s? What are your preferred pads? I'm at 23,000 miles and about to install my 3rd set of pads. And bleeding for probably the 15th time hahaha.
Wow! Lots of questions. Haha. Yes. We've installed the bleed nipple on the ABS pump. It didn't seem to make much difference, using a Pneumatic Bleeder does more. ( amzn.to/2EWYfNn ), Stock rotors should last a long, freaking time. I've never worn out a set and we just sold a bike with 60k miles on it. I like HH Sintered pads. I like the feel a lot better than the Organic pads that come on most bikes. EBC HH ( amzn.to/2vMPpSq ) pads are great and last a lot longer - in fact, they usually get hard and wooden feeling before they actually wear out. But if you love breaking, you need to do the MTS 1200 Front Brake Upgrade. All of us here have done this upgrade now. ruclips.net/video/aiGDtdWJKeQ/видео.html
Thanks for the comeback man! Really appreciate it. I'll definitely be giving that pneumatic bleeder a try. I also already ordered up the castrol srf fluid haha $$$ Really great to hear about the rotors lasting. Also, glad to hear your opinion on the HH sintered pads. That's what I've been running on my bike for a while now but they're in need of replacement again. I've ridden all the western states, a ride to alaska and three track days on the HH sintered pads on the multi. Pretty good! Maybe slightly grabby sometimes. Just need to get that rear brake sorted out. Luckily my multi is a 1200s 2015 and already has the M50 calipers. So... castrol SRF fluid, new HH sintered pads, and the pneumatic bleeder. I'll report back with how that holds up! Thanks again. Maybe we'll cross paths some time on the road.
A bit of aluminum makes a good disk brake analog for pumping a system with the caliper off the bike. Most hardware stores sell thicknesses that will work (3/16" is ~5mm, the middle of the nominal thickness range for most rotors) and can be cut to a manageable "puck" size. I made mine a little longer than the caliper so the ends stick out on both sides. This lets me run mounting wire through holes in the puck to keep it in place until you pump the brakes.
Hmm Not so sure. The only part that gets hot is the caliper. All other remain at roughy ambient temperature. The figures you claim would melt the reservoir and the hoses. Never see that before. I doubt that any part other than the caliper gets above ambient temp + 5 degrees so any fluid will do.
Harley guys spend 20 25 grand for their crappy parts !!!! Check out Traveling Tall on utube !! Worn parts needing to replace pistons and cylinders 😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄🍺🍺🍺🍺
Great vid! But another reason not to buy a Duc ☹️. I’ve always wanted one, but it’s like Ducati designs shit like this in to make the bikes more “passione” 😂
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
Remove the rear wheel then the brake caliper. Place the caliper back onto the brake disc at the top with the bleed nipple again at the top. You can then pump the npedal all you like. the pads will simpoly go and bit the disc
Great video I bought a new multi and toured for 12 months around North America . Some days I rode 1,000 or more. No dealer could explain why my brakes sucked. I even ran through stop signs because I couldn’t stop . This explains so much . Thanks for making this video
Here is a heads up for other riders. I bought a used bike and had to adjust to riding it. I recently put new tires and put pads on and of course, bled the brakes finding air in the rear brake line. All was good and had more brake peddle than I knew what to do with. Next was a crash on a highway ramp that I have gone down many times. What happened? I couldn't understand why I would have this happen... until... I remembered the spongy rear brake I had. I used the same pressure that I would have with the old brakes and the back wheel locked up while the front wheel went into a gravel patch and down we went! So, If you have this spongy thing for brakes and you get them bled and fixed remember to give yourself time to adjust to the new brakes. This is one time I wished I had antilock brakes.
I did this brake bleed for what seems like the hundredth time. This time a little differently. Instead of suspending the caliper on the exhaust side of the bike, I passed the caliper back through the wheel to the left side and I was able to get the caliper much higher, almost to the height of the pillion seat. The result was cable and caliper were all elevated nicely with no horizontal run in the cable. It worked really wel and was the best and fastest bleed so far. I had to remove the plastic hood covering the cables to get the caliper up that high. I used SRF again. The rear brake is still turning to mush but taking a lot longer to do so. Thanks again for the tip on the bleed technique and the SRF fluid!
Very well done! You are right on the money. Have been riding Mulitstrada's hard in the mountains since 2012 and have come to accept that nothing I have tried really holds up more than a few thousand miles as far as rear brake feel. As soon as I watched your video I ordered the Castrol React SRF Racing Brake Fluid. I received it in less than 24 hours and immediately flushed the system. With a 2019 Multi1260s, I found it easier to simply remove the rear wheel. No way to properly use a torque wrench to get to 33nm to the socket head cap screws that hold on the caliper with the wheel on. Great video, Thank you!
Your method worked great for my 2011 1200S, no need to remove the rear wheel. Thank you.
Thank you so much. Helped me with my Ducati Monster 1200s. Removed the caliper and raised it above the slave to get a successful bleed. Refitted it and it is perfect. Ducati very good looking, but will test your will power at times 😁
Fantastic and Very helpful. 2014 Multistrada with a sad 4000 miles. Rear brake is useless. Thank You
Had crappy rear brake, but now with castrol react srf racing it's back!! Did however remove the rear wheel, this made it a lot easier to do, but you have to remove all the rear guard and other bits. Get a bud to hold the calliper ash high as possible (can get it well above seat hight). Only took 4-5 fill ups (which is not a lot) just to make sure all the old fluid was cleared. All cool now!!
Excellent video... I do exactly what the guy does to suspend the calliper when bleeding. In addition I put a shim the thickness of the disc between the pads to check for a firm peddle and then don’t have to push the pads back and remove excess fluid from the reservoir.
Excellent video!!! I struggled with the rear brake on my Multi since it was new in 2013. Last year I found Bel Ray’s dot 4 brake fluid which has worked VERY well. I might have to switch it to this stuff next.
Thankyou for solving a tricky problem. Not always in the manuals.
This is how informational videos should be! Great job guys!
Hi, Thanks for the clear explanation of the issue & your solution, after multiple bleeding exercises and placing an heatshield between master cylinder and mounting, this will be my next action, before totally upgrading the rear brake system. The 2015 version has an upgraded rear brake system.
If heat from the catalytic/exhaust is a problem close to the brake fluid would a heat shield in between work?
Not likely. You'd have to find a way to shield the entire system, including the rear master cylinder, which bolts directly to the frame and is super close to the cat too.
I have a custom heat shield between the master cylinder and where it mounts but it didn't solve the issue for me.
Glad to have you back. I'm imagining you have done a little track time and a lot of riding in the last coupe of years. Would love to hear about your hiatus from youtube. Also, who do you refer to when you say "we"? Another well done and practical video. Thank you for your for being such an excellent contributor to the motorcycle community, from a fellow MTS owner.
Haha! Yeah, it's good to be back. Thanks! And when I say we, I'm talking about the dozen or so people that are behind every one of these videos. "We" research each topic, get perspectives from experts and bounce ideas of each other to keep the content on point, concise and accurate. Most of whom have no interest in being on camera, but I'm going to throw out the names of those who help the most. Mike, Brian, Chris, Kris, Kory, Don, Warren, Scott, Roy, Rick, Shirley and of course, Chase the dog! :)
Great video very informative - Alternatively: Dot 5 is silicon based - hydrophobic, great heat range- been on my 2010 Multi for 30k miles - still stopping (15 bucks ). Just thouroughly flush old fluid 'cause it does not like to mix with the glycol based ones at all.
Since I removed my catalytic converter my rear brake has been fine. I switched to castrol srf but with the cat removed I believe motul rbf 660 will work too
My Ducati Scrambler has the exact same problem, so thanks for the video!
If I’ve added a full Akro to my 2018 MTS PP, not a racer, do you still recommend the react fluid? Thanks, you are the easiest describer to follow.
I know this vid is now 2 years old but the good news is Ducati are keeping it current and relevant. The fluid in my rear brake and also the clutch on my 2020 V4S went black after just one ride in slow traffic - lots of red lights where, without air flow, the fluids get cooked. I note that on forums some are recommending Dot 5 fluid. I don't know anything about brakes (this video has been very helpful) and a lot of people who offer advice on forums know less than me so I was wondering if you can advise if Dot 5 is a valid solution?
Dot5 won't solve the problem. Well even worse than that. DOT 5.1 and DOT 4 are both glycol based fluids. DOT 5 is silicone based and not compatible at all. DOT 5.1 has slightly higher wet and dry boiling points, but the Castrol SRF is still quite a bit higher than that.
@@CanyonChasers thankyou! It may have been 5.1 that was being suggested so thanks for clarifying and confirming Castrol SRF is still the best option.
Really useful and complete vídeo. Thank you for explanation. I dont understand 20k € or $ bike and didnt realize about boiling problems in rear brake circut. Buffff!
Great video, would you recommend using a vacuum bleeder pump to avoid depressing the rear brake pedal.
I'm thinking about putting 12mm of Aerogel under my brake lines. That should prevent almost all heat transfer from the Cat. Or maybe I'll try some Space Shuttle tiles.
Let us know if that works.
great video. I have had 2 MTS over the last decade, both with the same problem. It seems you are saying this problem is related to heat. So if this is the case, wouldn't the rear brake work initially when the bike is turned on and still "cold"? the rear brake is mushy from the get go regarding of engine temperature
Sorta. Once the brake fluid gets hot enough for long enough, the fluid isn't any good anymore.
I have a '12 SF 848, same issue. Would heat wrapping the exhaust near the rear brake reservoir help?
We tried it, and it didn't matter. The only thing that we've found to work is the SRF brake fluid.
I have a Diavel which seems very similar. Would I get the same results if I did't pull off the caliper and just hooked up my Mity Vac, and then put a weight on the brake pedal overnight to assist bleeding?
Our experience is that weighting the brake lever doesn't really accomplish anything. As soon as you start riding, air bubbles just move back into the system. You don't have to remove the caliper, but you'll get a better bleed by putting the bleed nipple at the highest point to encourage all the air to get out of the system.
Hi .
Just wondering if you guys have any ideas about my 2011 multistrada .
I have a rear rebound warning light on my dash . And can't think why it's come on . Or indeed what to do about it.
Hello and thanks for the video. I have a question: for a standard bike use and therefore not racing is this oil okay? how often should it be changed? every 2 years as per manual? do you feel the difference using this castrol? Thanks again
Thanks for the help. However, @CanyonChasers, in order to save money AND resources would it be more than OK to go for the Motul stuff should you live and ride in dry areas eg. Arizona, Dubai, AUS and the like? Looking fwrd for your expert advice
I don't know about Dubai - but we live in the second dryest state and we still couldn't get the Motul to work for very long.
@@CanyonChasers Cheers
Great video however the DVTMULTI (2015-on) has a larger caliper and spokes so can't get the caliper through to the other side of the bike. Wheel will have to come off.
Just bought the Castrol 1liter canister, looking forward to the result, heat-shield mod did not realy work, so curious to this mod result :-)
Due to some injuries, I haven't been riding for the last few years and my 2013 MTS has sat with a fresh bleed of Castrol SRF. After the first year of just sitting, the rear brake went to mush again. So, on my bike, I think I have an additional/separate issue. Do you have any tips for troubleshooting? Is this also somewhat normal for this model? When freshly bled and regularly ridden, the rear brake stays working just fine. It is only while sitting that the rear brake goes bad. Any help appreciated. Thank you. P.S. I can only obtain a good bleed by disconnecting the rear brake caliper and elevating it while bleeding.
Even sitting, the brake fluid will still take on water, even though at a much slower rate. We've noticed that if we are stuck riding in a bunch of rain, the rear brake will turn to mush almost immediately. It's for sure a problem with most modern Ducati's. The SRF is the only workable solution we've found, even many years after publishing this video.
Alternatively: Dot 5 is silicon based - hydrophobic, great heat range- been on my 2010 Multi for 30k miles - still stopping (15 bucks ). Just thouroughly flush old fluid 'cause it does not like to mix with the glycol based ones at all. Will store indefinitely with out water absorbtion since its silicon based.
Same on my Monster 1200! Hope this will solve the problem after bleading my rear brake 100 times.. 😬
Why do you have to loose the bleed nipple before removing the caliper?
You don't have to but it's easier to break loose when the caliper is still attached.
Would this be the same approach to the spongy rear on the Xdiavels as well? This is also problematic on XDiavel 2016s+
Most likely. I have less experience with the Diavel, but the bikes are pretty similar.
can i use this for my Clutch too? i do know that both the breaks and the clutch take DOT 4 but need to confirm
It's in my clutch system. Once I crack that bottle open I put it in everything, including the 50cc scooter.
You can easily test the brakes when not mounted. Just put a spacer between the pads of same or bigger thickness than the disks. !!!
Hey Dave, has this been a good bike? Better than the MTS1100??
Grazie del consiglio!! 😊
De nada!
Ducati rear brakes IMO have a couple issues... the first is exactly what's covered here (cooking the fluid). BUT... once you address that with better fluid, you're going to find that while the pedal is not as mushy... it still takes a LOT of effort to get the sort of braking effort you might be used to on other bikes. IMO the rear brake master cylinder is undersized resulting in a large force required to get substantial braking. I've just gotten used to using more force (or just letting linked braking do their thing).
Yep. It's a shame too. I love my rear brake.
@@CanyonChasers Makes me wonder if the linked braking MC is ALSO undersized so the rear doesn't do anything when using linked brakes. Luckily the M50's up front are fantastic and when you're on them hard the rear can't do much anyway... certainly not when the rear is in the air anyway. ;-)
Any idea if this still carried over to newer model bikes? I have that same mushy feeling in the rear on my 2019 Hypermotard. Should I give this a try? I’ve already tried bleeding with a motul fluid and it was literally better for only about 10 miles. Then went back to super mushy.
Dealership claims this high temp is not the problem, even with the high temp fluid. He states guys in South who have year long riding season have no problem, the guys in North see a soft brake after it sits all winter. Also the rear brake caliper is inverted with the nipple pointed down much lower than master cylinder. Next flush I'll have the SRF Racing brake fluid. I'll give an update
The only thing I could say is take the wheel off so you don't risk dropping brake fluid on it you can also do a detailed cleaning at the same time.
Was that pictures at 2:30 Tail of the Dragon???
Nope. Thats somewhere in Oregon. Near Tillamook I think.
I'm having a mushy-non existent rear brake problem on a '15 monster 821. There are about 3k miles on the bike. Could this be the same issue?
It is entirely possible - but before throwing $70 at a bottle of brake fluid, try flushing your rear brake with some quality Motul brake fluid first. See if that solves it.
I have the very same issue on my Monster. flushed the line twice, replaced the rear master cylinder. all warranty work under a master Ducati tech....A year later , same issue again. Back brake doesn’t brake.
Is the ABS pump on top of the engine like the Diavel? That's my main complaint about modern ducati Brake systems. Totally idiotic placement of the ABS so you have bubbles that go all the way up there. This makes bleeding time consuming and irritating compared to the old 1098/SF.
Yep. Same place. It's under the seat. If you have a compressor and can use a Pneumatic bleeder ( amzn.to/2EWYfNn ) then that becomes much less of an issue. But if you do it the old fashioned way, then it's a PITA. We even put a bleeder valve on the ABS pump to get air out, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
unfortunatelly it doesn't work on multistrada 1260, maybe because of different rear spoke whell or a bigger caliper... i dont'know...
The brake fluid will have a higher wet boiling point regardless of the wheel/caliper size. Perhaps you have another problem, like a damaged brake line or faulty rear master cyclinder?
@@CanyonChasers the problem is I can't put the caliper out through the spokes' whell. when you do it looks straightforward but on my 1260 it's impossible...
Awesome info !!
Why not re route the line, and shield it from heat with something? Seems like a way better option.
We looked into that - and may still explore it further. There just isn't a good way to re-route the lines to keep them far enough away the heat. The swingarm becomes a giant heat-sync. We could space the lines out from the swingarm and wrap them with heat shielding, but honestly, expensive brake fluid starts looking better and better the more you look at it.
On a Yam xt660r the brake us similarly routed to the r/h/s pipe. I used aluminium (aluminum) duct tape on the lines and stopped it boiling on steep mountain descents.
Love these videos! They are very helpful for me! Thank you! I would love to hear any reviews and videos on the Ducati Monster 1200s 2018
I have the same issue with Ducati Monster 821 . Anyone else ?
Yep!
Unknown
Yes. Replaced master cylinder was the ‘cause’- under warranty. 1 yr later back to mushiness and it always happens over Winter - mushy in the Spring.
Same 2015 monster 821 stripe it cost me 180$ every time I take it to the shop
Hope it works for a 2018 monster 821
It seems to work on most everything. We've even gone so far as to put this stuff in our scooters.
Likes, Subbed and shared on our social media. Keep theses great videos coming.
Thanks. Awesome video
Same in my new xdiavel. This is not mentioned nowhere in manuals? Ducati sell you expensive bikes knowing you will pick up the problem eventually with apparent wrong spec oil mentioned in this video. Why should I bleed breaks every fckn month? Missing my ninja and decency of Japanese.
HI. I have a Monster 1200 R for one season now and the rear brake just gone mushy. Will try bleeding the brake fluid and see. Thanks
Anyone else had that issue on a monster 1200 ?
Yeah, let us know. I wouldn't be surprised if the Monster suffers from the same problem. Those catalytic converts get so hot.
anthony dossang Same on my Monster 1200S which has the same rear brake as the R. However the Castrol react did fix it.
Love the videos man! I'm going to try this fluid out on my 2015 1200s. Can bleed nipples be installed on the 2015+ models ABS unit as well. Would love to see a video on that. Also, roughly how long would you expect stock rotors to last on my 1200s? What are your preferred pads? I'm at 23,000 miles and about to install my 3rd set of pads. And bleeding for probably the 15th time hahaha.
Wow! Lots of questions. Haha. Yes. We've installed the bleed nipple on the ABS pump. It didn't seem to make much difference, using a Pneumatic Bleeder does more. ( amzn.to/2EWYfNn ), Stock rotors should last a long, freaking time. I've never worn out a set and we just sold a bike with 60k miles on it. I like HH Sintered pads. I like the feel a lot better than the Organic pads that come on most bikes. EBC HH ( amzn.to/2vMPpSq ) pads are great and last a lot longer - in fact, they usually get hard and wooden feeling before they actually wear out. But if you love breaking, you need to do the MTS 1200 Front Brake Upgrade. All of us here have done this upgrade now. ruclips.net/video/aiGDtdWJKeQ/видео.html
Thanks for the comeback man! Really appreciate it. I'll definitely be giving that pneumatic bleeder a try. I also already ordered up the castrol srf fluid haha $$$ Really great to hear about the rotors lasting. Also, glad to hear your opinion on the HH sintered pads. That's what I've been running on my bike for a while now but they're in need of replacement again. I've ridden all the western states, a ride to alaska and three track days on the HH sintered pads on the multi. Pretty good! Maybe slightly grabby sometimes. Just need to get that rear brake sorted out. Luckily my multi is a 1200s 2015 and already has the M50 calipers. So... castrol SRF fluid, new HH sintered pads, and the pneumatic bleeder. I'll report back with how that holds up! Thanks again. Maybe we'll cross paths some time on the road.
Yeah, let us know how it all works out! Sides like you ride even more than we do!
No it is the worng type of caliper with the bleed valve on the bottom. Ducati just bought an off the shelf caliper.
I did this. Let's see how it goes
You'll know if your rear brake works in two weeks from now.
Wouldn't it be easier to just us a non return valve on the end of your bleed tube rather than removing your rear brake?
Because the bleed valve is on the bottom, contaminated fluid and air can get trapped in high spots.
Good to know
A bit of aluminum makes a good disk brake analog for pumping a system with the caliper off the bike. Most hardware stores sell thicknesses that will work (3/16" is ~5mm, the middle of the nominal thickness range for most rotors) and can be cut to a manageable "puck" size. I made mine a little longer than the caliper so the ends stick out on both sides. This lets me run mounting wire through holes in the puck to keep it in place until you pump the brakes.
This is a fantastic alternative. Most mountain bike brakes are bled using a similar kind of device.
I just bought a 2014 Multi and canyonchasers is right, the rear brake is crap!
The rear brake is crap!
Hmm Not so sure. The only part that gets hot is the caliper. All other remain at roughy ambient temperature. The figures you claim would melt the reservoir and the hoses. Never see that before. I doubt that any part other than the caliper gets above ambient temp + 5 degrees so any fluid will do.
8 min video for exhaust hot. Make fluid bad.
did this work for anyone?
That moment when you spend 15k on a new bike and it uses crappy parts...
Harley guys spend 20 25 grand for their crappy parts !!!! Check out Traveling Tall on utube !! Worn parts needing to replace pistons and cylinders 😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄🍺🍺🍺🍺
I call that bullshit
Great vid! But another reason not to buy a Duc ☹️. I’ve always wanted one, but it’s like Ducati designs shit like this in to make the bikes more “passione” 😂
Another reason not to buy a duck... poorly engineered maintenance nightmare...
Not true at all. Its a simple bleed procedure and the latest models have much more extended service intervals
Do not buy Ducati.Problem solved :)
Where are you from, Russia?