I had adjusted the push rod for the master cylinder and initially helped, a week laker the rear brakes seized on me. Obvious Over adjusted. Then went on to take off the calipers, cleaned and checked piston seals. Moved to bleed the fluid, was clean, but did a full bleed anyways. But now its really mushy and almost no contact at all. Any ideas?
The adjustment window is pretty narrow, especially as the brakes and fluid heat up, you'll notice pretty quickly if you over tighten them LOL. Mushy brakes are pretty much always due to air. I would put money on the theory air got in the lines when you did your bleed. It may be worth running to the dealership to have the ABS pump cycled and bled if you think this may be the case.
Great stuff, Chris! The Monsters 1200s also suffer from the same BS issue. NOW...let me know about the anakee road tire review. Is that coming? I'm waiting for that before pulling the trigger on a set. Let me know..a simple (it's coming) will work
The single sided swingarm Ducatis have a bad rear brake design that requires frequent rebreeding. And the rebreeding is difficult. You have to remove the caliper, pass it through the wheel, hang it up higher than the reservoir and then bleed it. I've never had the rear brake work for more than 3 months. After that, it requires a lot of pumping.
I had similar issues with my front brake, turned out to be a torn diaphragm in the front master cylinder that kept letting in air. Got it replaced and no issues since!
@@4KMotoring What I'm talking about is a known issue with the Ducati single sided swingarm bikes (like my 2014 Multi or the Diavels). The caliper is mounted upside down, which is part of the problem. The routing of the brake line may also be a factor. But Ducati hasn't changed the design and likely never will. Which is just precious for a bike that's supposedly designed for light off road duty where you're much more likely to need a reliable rear brake.
No!They are like sh..t compared to my GS-(I heard someone say he puts another brake pump on his panigale to go on track.He doesn't know if that exists for a MS also.Do you have any idea about that?
Frustrating, isn't it? The Ducati undoubtedly has better equipment than the BMW.. so what gives? I have theories about the linked braking system and suspension setup that provide better bite. 1250 RT very quickly activates both brakes on the activation of the railway pedal so you're getting front brake in addition to rear for far superior braking feel, which is really just electronic trickery.
Be careful with this approach as you can easily take too much free play out of the rear brake linkage and when the rear brake heats up from use and the fluid expands it will cause pressure in the system causing brake drag and overheating and damaging the rear disc and pads. This happened to me once on a MTS 1200S that had a soft rear brake pedal. Best to stick with the factory free play recommendations.
Definitely a fine line to play, you want to leave a little free play because there's always a little expansion with heat. That said, if you have significant thermal expansion from DOT 4, I would assume there's some water absorbed onto the fluid.
🤣🤣 I'm not sure they're on the cusp of bankruptcy anytime soon, but there's definitely something here for Ducati to look at. I find it interesting when I ride my BMW R1250 RT-P, the brakes feel super strong... But there's definitely a strong linked brake effect going on. Not sure I would want that on the Multi.
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Are you happy with the brakes on your Multistrada??
Yes, please a video on brake bleeding.
Coming soon!
Yes, please, on the brake fluid flush.
Or, coolant top off. How do you add coolant to the expansion reservoir?
I just added some fluid to top off. It was a pain.
I had adjusted the push rod for the master cylinder and initially helped, a week laker the rear brakes seized on me. Obvious Over adjusted. Then went on to take off the calipers, cleaned and checked piston seals. Moved to bleed the fluid, was clean, but did a full bleed anyways. But now its really mushy and almost no contact at all. Any ideas?
The adjustment window is pretty narrow, especially as the brakes and fluid heat up, you'll notice pretty quickly if you over tighten them LOL.
Mushy brakes are pretty much always due to air. I would put money on the theory air got in the lines when you did your bleed. It may be worth running to the dealership to have the ABS pump cycled and bled if you think this may be the case.
Thanks Chris.
Great stuff, Chris!
The Monsters 1200s also suffer from the same BS issue.
NOW...let me know about the anakee road tire review. Is that coming?
I'm waiting for that before pulling the trigger on a set.
Let me know..a simple (it's coming) will work
Finished filming, just need the time to get it edited together
The single sided swingarm Ducatis have a bad rear brake design that requires frequent rebreeding. And the rebreeding is difficult. You have to remove the caliper, pass it through the wheel, hang it up higher than the reservoir and then bleed it. I've never had the rear brake work for more than 3 months. After that, it requires a lot of pumping.
I had similar issues with my front brake, turned out to be a torn diaphragm in the front master cylinder that kept letting in air. Got it replaced and no issues since!
@@4KMotoring What I'm talking about is a known issue with the Ducati single sided swingarm bikes (like my 2014 Multi or the Diavels). The caliper is mounted upside down, which is part of the problem. The routing of the brake line may also be a factor. But Ducati hasn't changed the design and likely never will. Which is just precious for a bike that's supposedly designed for light off road duty where you're much more likely to need a reliable rear brake.
No!They are like sh..t compared to my GS-(I heard someone say he puts another brake pump on his panigale to go on track.He doesn't know if that exists for a MS also.Do you have any idea about that?
Frustrating, isn't it? The Ducati undoubtedly has better equipment than the BMW.. so what gives? I have theories about the linked braking system and suspension setup that provide better bite. 1250 RT very quickly activates both brakes on the activation of the railway pedal so you're getting front brake in addition to rear for far superior braking feel, which is really just electronic trickery.
Be careful with this approach as you can easily take too much free play out of the rear brake linkage and when the rear brake heats up from use and the fluid expands it will cause pressure in the system causing brake drag and overheating and damaging the rear disc and pads. This happened to me once on a MTS 1200S that had a soft rear brake pedal. Best to stick with the factory free play recommendations.
Definitely a fine line to play, you want to leave a little free play because there's always a little expansion with heat. That said, if you have significant thermal expansion from DOT 4, I would assume there's some water absorbed onto the fluid.
Shouldn't have to do this on a $30,000 bike. If Ducati keeps this up they'll be filing for bankruptcy again in no time.
🤣🤣 I'm not sure they're on the cusp of bankruptcy anytime soon, but there's definitely something here for Ducati to look at. I find it interesting when I ride my BMW R1250 RT-P, the brakes feel super strong... But there's definitely a strong linked brake effect going on. Not sure I would want that on the Multi.