1:33 yes you CAN purchase it separately. part numbers - 1058 327 020 (for transmission nr 1058 000 014) or 1058 327 022 (for all except nr 1058 000 014).
Hey Gary, I just overhauled a 5hp24 from a '99 A8 4.2 Quattro. The car originally has the AQF engine combined with ECZ transmission. We bought the car with the gearbox broken, so we bought another 5hp24 DTD transmission to fix it on the bench (same transmission basically with different valve body). The plan was to repair the DTD internals and install the original ECZ valve body assembly into the DTD transmission, so it should bolt in and be a direct swap. After doing so the symptoms of error remained the exact same though. The car barely starts rolling and the first 4 gears are slipping until the limp mode kicks in and you can drive in 5th gear with no slippage (so I assume the oil pump is working fine, it has been inspected and looked great as well). My assumption is that the valve body is faulty (although it has been disassembled, cleaned and inspected for wear and cracks) and the origin of our problems. Just for your information: the a clutch drum and seals were replaced. Can you help me how to figure out what is wrong? Can the electronic valves in the valve body go bad and is there a simple way to test them? It's frustrating, because the transmission is basically fully rebuilt, but absolutely nothing changed! I experienced this exact behavior with a 5hp19 in my bimmer back then which lead into a manual gearbox swap. I do not want to experience this again as you can imagine ;) Please help me. Cheers
Gary Ferraro A very basic type of scanner I think. It's called whb diag 0.89 vag. Is there a way to clean the solenoids or do they have to be replaced?
So basically I figure my A clutch is not getting enough pressure. It has a new drum, o rings and the clutches themself are okay, so I reckon the problem has to do with the valve body or solenoids...
Great video. I recently rebuilt my ZF5HP24A and thought it was a good idea to put a new main pressure control valve from TransGO in to prevent another "A" clutch drum blow out. However, The replacement valve looked a little different than OEM and now I noticed the code P0741 being thrown . Today, I put back the old main pressure valve and I will look for the "step" you are speaking of. Thanks for your thoughts on what to look for on the valve body. FYI The transmission before the rebuild had 169,000 miles before the excessive wear on the A drum snap ring area.
Yes. The torque converter is a rebuild from Rev Max. The P0741 "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck off" Do you not think it is related to the main pressure valve ? Some websites say it could be dirty fluid ( I have new fluid), a faulty TCC solenoid, Faulty TCM, etc. The Ross Tech website adds that it could be the main pressure control valve , which I don't really follow... I think the TCC solenoid is the second one on the valve body. I could take it out easily and check the screen .Is there a good way to check if the solenoid is good ? resistance maybe.
Thank you for your videos. I just picked up a '99 xj vp and found it was engaging 1st a bit funny and it finally got warm enough one day to go in limp mode. Turns out the trans was filled with dextron 3 and had a cracked upper valve body casting, but already had the pressure control valve addressed. Now waiting on a new valve body so I can get it back together and flush the dextron out before I'm back on the road. PS. the pan was clean, and it was shifting nice through all the gears.
+TattooPyramidHead Nice job on finding the cracked valvebody. As far as the fluid goes, just use a fully synthetic fluid and you will be fine. Thanks for watching. Gary
wow, i can honestly say, ive never seen it that bad, glad to hear you got it back on the road, if your going to install a new filter in the trans, go with OE, after market filters are no good on this unit.
thanks...fluid replaced 700mil a go..."mayle parts" its took 7liters in...after i drained 4lit only...i faund drain plug lose and oil leak....no metal parts in oil pan at all.....going for codes check tomorow....all the best..thank you...regards..peter.
Hey Gary. Do you think that crack would give me a slip and grab first time accelerating under about half throttle? Doesn't seem to occur after the first take off for the day or very low throttle. The more aggressive I am on the throttle the harder the slip and grab.
Hey Gary I removed the Valve Body on my zf5hp24. As suspected the upper valve body is cracked. I read an article saying to check the piston accumulator. Have you ever seen it go bad?
welcome back Gary....got some reading from codes...31 EGS:Symptom,gear monitoring, 34 EGS:Gear monitoring2 , 3B EGS:Stall speed, 32 EGS:Gear monitoring1, 95 EGS:CAN wheel speeds,....it was first reading,after reset and drive 1 meter only warning o dash comback ,,trans save mode,,and only 1 code...3B EGS:Stall speed....so now got only this one revers is ok,forward like third no shifting....is this mayby speed sensors?...many thanks pet..
+Gary Ferraro i thing is full...i put 7liters in...at 40 degris and slowle drops com out. ..after change oil box start works perfect smooth..by about 800 mils...i park up for 3days and after that stop,done 1 mile and got that.....thanks
hello gary, first thank you for your great devotion to share these infos with us, id like to ask you about my 5hp24 (bmw:A5S440Z) wich it stays in 4th or 5th gear, i think, it seems to be high gear because the car can t advance in even a small hill, and all that without a FAILSAFE TRANS PROG in the instrument cluster, however the reverse is good. and also, what happen if i try to disconnect the ECU?. respects
Hi Gary. When you speak of the updated valve, do you mean the unit offered by Transgo that does not require machining of the bore or the valve offered by Sonnax which requires machining? I suspect a failing pressure regulator as my Audi takes a longer time to engage reverse, drive engages as normal however it has kicked in very hard a couple times when starting from an intersection. Thanks, your videos are very informative.
+Dan Nastalski The valve i use is an updated valve from ZF, its a drop in replacement, im sure the transgo one is good. This unit has an issue with the F clutch piston bonding coming off causing reverse issues, when you say it kicked in hard a couple of times do you mean on the shifts? Gary
+Gary Ferraro thanks for replying Gary. It has only done this issue 3 times and each time the engine was already warm. When I applied the throttle once the traffic light had turned green nothing happened, the motor began to rev, after a 1-2 second delay the transmission engaged with a tremendous bang and continued to drive fine. My research leads me to believe that this might be caused by the pressure regulator and would lead to the clutch A drum breaking.
Have you had the fluid level checked, there is no dipstick, it has to be out on a lift to check the fluid, if its full then i would say there is an internal problem. Gary
Thanks for your input. I believe the transmission was rebuilt in 2012, as service records indicate "slippage" and some of the bellhousing bolts were loose. It's probably a busted oil pump.
hello gary..super videos and knowlech...sorry for my whriting I'm from poland...My bmw 97 535i 5hp24 after 3 days non used i drove 1mil cold start..park at shop..start.. go to reverse and notes when relised footbrake is not rolling backwood as normol just still stop..on flat surface...when put foot down its move...go to drive and same not moving till food goes down "gas pedal"...Was normal 5mil shifting nice ..trafic lights stop..food down rpm up but not move..only when rpm get low it start slowly forward. ..when i hit pedal, egane lost exeleration..food up move forward but very poor...its went to savemode like 3th gear only and reverse...Now is like half revers and littlebet forward not shifting. ..Ok maby it make any sens what i wrouth this my story.....thanks for videos planing pool box out and fix it or learn more about...regards
+piotr grzenia If the trans is in safe mode, you should have it scanned to get a code out of it, also check the transmission fluid level, there is no dipstick so it would have to go on a lift to do that. Gary........Greetings from New York
Hey I have some pressure leak noise in P, and have harsh 2 in 1 st gear when’s transmission hot. But in Sport mode I don’t have it Can it be something with valve body or what’s your guess?
@@GaryFerraro it’s like air leak noise.. and when’s oil cold it shifts smooth, but after some long ride on highway (160-200 km/h) I have downshift issues 2 to 1 when I want to hold down. It shifts like too late and pushes my car like little bit more to front. I changed the torque converter already, oil 3 times , using ATF at this time so no issues there. When’s the A/C on or sport mode in its all smooth. I already bought all valves, an these mechatronik things, but I’m afraid if that can be crack in mechatronik on F chlutch channel? I’m going to change the wiring, sensors, solenoids, main gasket, gasket between gearbox and mechatronik (2 small rubber sleeves) , filter… But don’t know maybe I buy some spare valve body part (this what can crack) to have by hand if it’s broken than I can change it.. if it’s not I send it back to seller.. And when I give full trottle , between gear changes you can hear this air leak noise also .. I know it’s oil leak but sounds like air leak
Hello Gary!! Thank you so much for great tutorial! I have one problem) After repair transmision i have just 1st gear... if i turn on 2nd gear - transmision is blocked and stop movin vehicle. What is problem can be?? Is it Valve Plate? Thank you for advice!
+Gary Ferraro it was classic problems with Cluch A Drum and piston F. I changed all necesary O-rings, gaskets, friction plates, piston F and washed everything. Can that problem be in incorrectly installed Lower Front Valve Body?? Seems like VB not installed 100% on the place were it shall be a bit moved to the side clockwise.
the valvebody should go into dowel pins when setting it onto the case. When you put this back together, did you gease the 2 small teflon rings on the A drum, they can tear on reassembly.
+Gary Ferraro, it was my bad) freewheel cage installed incorrectly (upside down), it was lock in the wrong direction))) And everything is work!!! Thank you for your job!!! It's amazing! From Russia with love)))
Hi Mr. Gary, I would like to tell you about my hacking BMW e53 zf5hp24 hydraulic block I found a crack at the top, and for what reason it may have cracked please tell me help me very please
Excellent videos here, sir. I have 2 1998 Audi A8's with the 5hp24A variant. They are beautiful cars, purchased on the cheap due to trans issues. The first one I suspect the A drum is totally gone. I lost all forward motion one warm Minnesota afternoon after accelerating rapidly in 4th using the tiptronic. Reverse is good. The second A8 is all black I just bought a couple weeks ago. Slips in the first 3 gears, bangs from 3rd to 4th in tiptronic and regular drive. I can baby it along just fine with light acceleration through all gears using the tiptronic. I am planning on tearing down the black A8 first, and I will keep you posted on that progress. I bought the full version of Ross Tech's Vag Com and have started pulling codes! I'm really excited to get these cars back on the road again! Any tips are appreciated.
+Gary Ferraro A total of 3 codes tripped for the black A8. Same codes came back after I cleared them. 16987- Internal Control Module P0603 -35-10- Non-Volatile Mem Error- Intermittent 17105 - Transmission Output Speed Sensor (G195) P0721 -35-10- Implausible Signal - Intermittent 17114 - Gear Ratio Monitoring P0730 - 35-10 - Incorrect Gear Ratio - Intermittent I have not pulled codes on the first Audi I purchased. That one is currently in a garage for winter storage.
+fireofsev Being that fact that you have gear ratio codes and an output speed sensor code, you may want to try an output speed sensor first or put up live data and see if its working.
Hey Gary, excellent informative videos for the 5HP24. I have a question for you. I have a 2000 Audi A6 with the ZF 5HP24 in it which I rebuilt with new A clutch drum, clutches, seals, updated pressure regulator valve, Replaced F clutch piston. I watched your videos for tips on the assembly and it went together with no issues. However when I first started up the car and went to level up the fluid i noticed the level did not go down. I have no forward gears or reverse and I have a incorrect gear ratio code ( my guess is because I have no pressure). I seemed I had no hydraulic pressure. I removed the cooler lines and turned on the car and no fluid came out. I can't find fluid circuit diagrams for this transmission to aid in my diagnostic. What would cause no hydraulic pressure? Before i rebuilt the transmission it had reverse and no forward gears....broken A clutch drum so i know the pump worked I did not tear the pump down during my rebuild i left it alone I have rebuilt a few transmissions before with no problems so I am aware of the need of being clean and organized I don't hear any cavitating noise from the pump as if its being starved of fluid. If you have ran into this before or have an idea of a direction to go with it I would really appreciate your input. Thanks
There is a very good chance you damaged the pump, if the converter was not all the way in and then the trans was bolted up to the engine, the pump gear may have broke, if its not taking in the oil, the pump is damaged. Gary
Its funny you mention that when i was installing the trans the TQ was hard to turn then was easy after about a 1/8 turn when trying to line up bolt holes. I figured it was rubbing on the flywheel. It must have not been locked in all the way....Looks like I'm pulling out the tranny again. Thanks for your response Gary and thanks for the informative videos.
Pulled it apart and the notches for the converter were busted on the pump gear. I used a lot of assembly grease so the trans looks ok looks like nothing got hot. Going to get a new pump and try it again. Thanks for your help Gary
Hi, i got zf5hp19 but i got an intermittent jerk down shift 3 to 2 when come to stop or sudden breaking.. sometimes when tranny warm that jerk gone away.. it that same issue like you discribe in the video? Thanks in advance
@@GaryFerraro thanks for your answer, i check theris no code and i ever change eds 1 solenoid but still have that issue.. is there any suggestion what else i have to check?
+ Gary Ferraro Hi thank you for the awesome channel on the ZF transmission. I have a question for you. I am currently facing the random slip on the downshift from 4th to 3rd on my 2003 BMW X5 4.4. For example while driving at 40MPH - 50 MPH, slow down to turn right, then stepping on the gas after the right turn would occasionally develop a downshift slip. No engine code only the transmission code where it indicating the slippage from 4th to 3rd and the temperature that it recorded which has never exceeding 85 degree celsius. I have drained and replace 4.5 litter of fluid and also check on the fluid level and the problem still exist. I am thinking it has to do with the pressure regulator but not 100% sure. I already have the new pressure regulator from transgo but haven't replace it yet. The valve body is out of the trans and I dont see any crack. What would you recommend?
It almost sounds like a low fluid condition, you may want to change out the filter, use OE, if the valvebody was cracked that would cause it to fall out of speed when coming to a stop. so the fluid came out of the fill/check hole when you checked the level?
Gary Ferraro Since I have ordered the pressure regulator valve kit made by transgo. Should I replaced it while I have it out. I am waiting for the new OE filter to put in.
i would , certainly cant hurt, you will have to put the resizers on the valve and put the valve in the freezer for about an hour and the valve will slide right in, (if this is the kit im thinking of)
Hello great video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. My BMW X5 4.4 I personally rebuilt the trans by watching your videos. I put an aftermarket filter and I did not change the vavle body gasket. Lately once it get warm the trans is having a lil hard time picking up. I change the fluid found no metal...any advice
No noise, no code from transmission. The x5 is struggling to pick speed especially uphill. When it does pick up speed, twice I feel a kick in the back. I did found my rear differential fluid milky. I flush it out and refilled it..I keep thinking it could be the aftermarket filter...if so where can I purchase those filters online
The transmission went. From the planetary gear down to the clutches. I replace all of them. The transmission been good for the pass 3 years. Until 2 weeks ago on third gear the rpm will jump about 200 rpm and it will catch .. it doesn't feel to me it's slipping. The filter I don't recall the brand. I know for a fact its aftermarket.
Hello Mr.Ferraro Great video ! I Performed the valve body high pressure valve and spring only ,at first it seemed to have worked , but now the zf5hp24 is starting to bang into gear coming to a stop again , but not as harsh yet as before, do you happen to know the link, so i could purchase the valvebody , if you get the time , Thank you very much, peace
Gary Ferraro hi is there a way i cant write to you about something? My mechanic wants to rip me off im kinda desperate. I need to buy this part but the mechanic tells me that the part number has to match this code. 1058427022 f8 i found the part but the F letter on it has 7 does this matter? ( he says it has to be exact the same even the f8 number for calibration ) Sorry for bothering you im desperate cause he wants 3.000 for the valve body but in ebay i found one for 500. But its missing the f8 number at the end. Please if u can reply i would really appreciate this. Thanks.
I have a 2003 x5 with that tranny. It has two problems I can not figure out maybe you could help. The reverse has half power no mater what temp all other gears work perfect. It has vibration at idle if I just touch the gas it goes away nice and smooth. Do you have any idea what I should check out?
Getting ready to tear down my XJ8 transmission. It had no symptoms, no slip, no noise. 90K miles. Put in park and now no gears. No forward, no reverse. Changed fluid and filter (OEM) disconnected fluid line at radiator to see pressure: no pressure. Any ideas?
Not much more, maybe half quart, probably less. I jacked the car up higher in the back to get more in. I spoke with a guy from erikssons who said I could have sheared the tangs off the torque converter that locate the pump. After filling it I ran it through the gears, checked the codes. Only code was 1722 for slippage, which cleared when the key was turned off. No,noise, no jerking, nothing. The gears just vanished.
Hi Gary, I am in Australia and am loving your videos! You are a Master! Can you please tell me if a 5hp24 029 valve body can be fiited to a 5hp24 034 transmission? I have read they may have differences that they are not interchangeable?
I'm honestly not sure, when i have to look into that, they normally go by the transmission number stamped into the case. Are they from different cars(one is a BMW and one is a Jaguar)?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the reply Gary! I have a bmw 2003 e53 X5 4.6is and the upper valve body is cracked like in the video. The 4.6is is rare and almost impossible to find as the number is 034 5hp24 transmission. The standard 4.4i X5 is a 029 5hp24 transmission. I have read on some forums that the 034 upper valve body is different to the 029 valve body on the inside?
@@GaryFerraro I found out that the castings are all the same but the valves in the upper valve body in question are different. So I can use the same upper valve body but need to swap valves over. Is this easy to do?
Thanks. Due to the Solenoid price , I just purchased a complete rebuild of the valve body from Eriksson. I have dealt with them in the past and they are good.
What kind of defect do you know? d Does it not start moving and at high torque will the car suddenly slip out of place, or will electric welding fix the problem? Thank you very much
@@GaryFerraro Mr. Gary. It works idly in the R mode and as for the D mode it tows at low revs, with just a few pushes in the manual mode and when the high revs start it delays and then the car stops instantly.
If the lower front half is worn, the pressure spikes and the A drum cracks. If the upper rear section cracks car will fall out of speed when coming to a stop. My e-mail gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hello Gary, excellent videos! I'm currently having an intermittent 'Trans Failsafe Prog' message come up on my 1998 540i with 190k miles. Accompanying codes are P1734 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Electrical and P1738 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Electrical. Sometimes I turn the car on and 'trans failsafe prog' comes on right away. Sometimes it only comes on when I drive hard and hit 3.5k rpm. This is independent of transmission temperature. Happens when cold or hot. I don't know where to start. Alternator and battery are in normal operation. Fluid and filter have been changed periodically and level is correct. When transmission is not in failsafe, it shifts perfectly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
+Gary Ferraro thank you for the reply! Checked egs connectors and they are bone dry and very clean. I'm now also getting a very loud noise coming from the transmission when not in trans failsafe mode. it sounds like a turbo with a bad bearing. Noise increases and decreases with rpm. Noise goes away in limp mode. I'm doubting its the solenoids at this point because what is the chance two go bad within a few miles of each other? Thank you sir.
Авто/Мото
1:33 yes you CAN purchase it separately. part numbers - 1058 327 020 (for transmission nr 1058 000 014) or 1058 327 022 (for all except nr 1058 000 014).
Hey Gary,
I just overhauled a 5hp24 from a '99 A8 4.2 Quattro.
The car originally has the AQF engine combined with ECZ transmission. We bought the car with the gearbox broken, so we bought another 5hp24 DTD transmission to fix it on the bench (same transmission basically with different valve body).
The plan was to repair the DTD internals and install the original ECZ valve body assembly into the DTD transmission, so it should bolt in and be a direct swap.
After doing so the symptoms of error remained the exact same though.
The car barely starts rolling and the first 4 gears are slipping until the limp mode kicks in and you can drive in 5th gear with no slippage (so I assume the oil pump is working fine, it has been inspected and looked great as well).
My assumption is that the valve body is faulty (although it has been disassembled, cleaned and inspected for wear and cracks) and the origin of our problems.
Just for your information: the a clutch drum and seals were replaced.
Can you help me how to figure out what is wrong? Can the electronic valves in the valve body go bad and is there a simple way to test them?
It's frustrating, because the transmission is basically fully rebuilt, but absolutely nothing changed!
I experienced this exact behavior with a 5hp19 in my bimmer back then which lead into a manual gearbox swap. I do not want to experience this again as you can imagine ;)
Please help me.
Cheers
do you what fault codes are present
Gary Ferraro Thanks for your reply! It says dtc 17114 P0730, but I have no idea what that means to be frank :)
That just means gear ratio error. what type of scanner are you using?
Gary Ferraro A very basic type of scanner I think. It's called whb diag 0.89 vag.
Is there a way to clean the solenoids or do they have to be replaced?
So basically I figure my A clutch is not getting enough pressure. It has a new drum, o rings and the clutches themself are okay, so I reckon the problem has to do with the valve body or solenoids...
Great video. I recently rebuilt my ZF5HP24A and thought it was a good idea to put a new main pressure control valve from TransGO in to prevent another "A" clutch drum blow out. However, The replacement valve looked a little different than OEM and now I noticed the code P0741 being thrown . Today, I put back the old main pressure valve and I will look for the "step" you are speaking of. Thanks for your thoughts on what to look for on the valve body. FYI The transmission before the rebuild had 169,000 miles before the excessive wear on the A drum snap ring area.
The P0741 Is a Torque converter slip code, was the converter changed?
Yes. The torque converter is a rebuild from Rev Max. The P0741 "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck off"
Do you not think it is related to the main pressure valve ?
Some websites say it could be dirty fluid ( I have new fluid), a faulty TCC solenoid, Faulty TCM, etc. The Ross Tech website adds that it could be the main pressure control valve , which I don't really follow...
I think the TCC solenoid is the second one on the valve body. I could take it out easily and check the screen .Is there a good way to check if the solenoid is good ? resistance maybe.
Did it have this code before? The solenoids on the 5HP24 very rarely go bad, i never change them.
Thank you for your videos. I just picked up a '99 xj vp and found it was engaging 1st a bit funny and it finally got warm enough one day to go in limp mode. Turns out the trans was filled with dextron 3 and had a cracked upper valve body casting, but already had the pressure control valve addressed. Now waiting on a new valve body so I can get it back together and flush the dextron out before I'm back on the road. PS. the pan was clean, and it was shifting nice through all the gears.
+TattooPyramidHead Nice job on finding the cracked valvebody. As far as the fluid goes, just use a fully synthetic fluid and you will be fine. Thanks for watching. Gary
Gary Ferraro It was very cracked, the broke off piece is sitting on my desk now. I ordered a bunch lifeguard 5 to refill and flush it with.
wow, i can honestly say, ive never seen it that bad, glad to hear you got it back on the road, if your going to install a new filter in the trans, go with OE, after market filters are no good on this unit.
thanks...fluid replaced 700mil a go..."mayle parts" its took 7liters in...after i drained 4lit only...i faund drain plug lose and oil leak....no metal parts in oil pan at all.....going for codes check tomorow....all the best..thank you...regards..peter.
+piotr grzenia ok, let me know.
Hey Gary. Do you think that crack would give me a slip and grab first time accelerating under about half throttle? Doesn't seem to occur after the first take off for the day or very low throttle. The more aggressive I am on the throttle the harder the slip and grab.
usually it would cause the trans to drop out of gear when coming to a stop
@@GaryFerraro Oh well it's not doing that. TY for the reply.
Hey Gary I removed the Valve Body on my zf5hp24. As suspected the upper valve body is cracked. I read an article saying to check the piston accumulator. Have you ever seen it go bad?
welcome back Gary....got some reading from codes...31 EGS:Symptom,gear monitoring, 34 EGS:Gear monitoring2 , 3B EGS:Stall speed, 32 EGS:Gear monitoring1, 95 EGS:CAN wheel speeds,....it was first reading,after reset and drive 1 meter only warning o dash comback ,,trans save mode,,and only 1 code...3B EGS:Stall speed....so now got only this one revers is ok,forward like third no shifting....is this mayby speed sensors?...many thanks pet..
+piotr grzenia All the gear monitoring codes means computer see transmission slipping, is the trans full of fluid?
+Gary Ferraro i thing is full...i put 7liters in...at 40 degris and slowle drops com out. ..after change oil box start works perfect smooth..by about 800 mils...i park up for 3days and after that stop,done 1 mile and got that.....thanks
+piotr grzenia Its very possible it is the speed sensors, that stall monitoring code, means the computer is seeing a slip on takeoff.
hello gary, first thank you for your great devotion to share these infos with us, id like to ask you about my 5hp24 (bmw:A5S440Z) wich it stays in 4th or 5th gear, i think, it seems to be high gear because the car can t advance in even a small hill, and all that without a FAILSAFE TRANS PROG in the instrument cluster, however the reverse is good. and also, what happen if i try to disconnect the ECU?. respects
Good work Gary
+احمد محمد Thank You
Hi Gary. When you speak of the updated valve, do you mean the unit offered by Transgo that does not require machining of the bore or the valve offered by Sonnax which requires machining? I suspect a failing pressure regulator as my Audi takes a longer time to engage reverse, drive engages as normal however it has kicked in very hard a couple times when starting from an intersection. Thanks, your videos are very informative.
+Dan Nastalski The valve i use is an updated valve from ZF, its a drop in replacement, im sure the transgo one is good. This unit has an issue with the F clutch piston bonding coming off causing reverse issues, when you say it kicked in hard a couple of times do you mean on the shifts? Gary
+Gary Ferraro thanks for replying Gary. It has only done this issue 3 times and each time the engine was already warm. When I applied the throttle once the traffic light had turned green nothing happened, the motor began to rev, after a 1-2 second delay the transmission engaged with a tremendous bang and continued to drive fine. My research leads me to believe that this might be caused by the pressure regulator and would lead to the clutch A drum breaking.
Have you had the fluid level checked, there is no dipstick, it has to be out on a lift to check the fluid, if its full then i would say there is an internal problem. Gary
Thanks, as long as I have it out I may as well upgrade the pressure regulator if the A drum is good.
Yes, good idea, you may be able just to install the 2nd design valve. I actually heard the lower front half casting is on back order
Thanks for your input. I believe the transmission was rebuilt in 2012, as service records indicate "slippage" and some of the bellhousing bolts were loose. It's probably a busted oil pump.
Let me know what you find please
hello gary..super videos and knowlech...sorry for my whriting I'm from poland...My bmw 97 535i 5hp24 after 3 days non used i drove 1mil cold start..park at shop..start.. go to reverse and notes when relised footbrake is not rolling backwood as normol just still stop..on flat surface...when put foot down its move...go to drive and same not moving till food goes down "gas pedal"...Was normal 5mil shifting nice ..trafic lights stop..food down rpm up but not move..only when rpm get low it start slowly forward. ..when i hit pedal, egane lost exeleration..food up move forward but very poor...its went to savemode like 3th gear only and reverse...Now is like half revers and littlebet forward not shifting. ..Ok maby it make any sens what i wrouth this my story.....thanks for videos planing pool box out and fix it or learn more about...regards
+piotr grzenia If the trans is in safe mode, you should have it scanned to get a code out of it, also check the transmission fluid level, there is no dipstick so it would have to go on a lift to do that. Gary........Greetings from New York
Hey I have some pressure leak noise in P, and have harsh 2 in 1 st gear when’s transmission hot. But in Sport mode I don’t have it
Can it be something with valve body or what’s your guess?
What does the noise sound like, whining noise that changes with engine pitch?2-1 downshift can be valvebody yes, can also be worn bushings
@@GaryFerraro it’s like air leak noise.. and when’s oil cold it shifts smooth, but after some long ride on highway (160-200 km/h) I have downshift issues 2 to 1 when I want to hold down.
It shifts like too late and pushes my car like little bit more to front.
I changed the torque converter already, oil 3 times , using ATF at this time so no issues there.
When’s the A/C on or sport mode in its all smooth.
I already bought all valves, an these mechatronik things, but I’m afraid if that can be crack in mechatronik on F chlutch channel?
I’m going to change the wiring, sensors, solenoids, main gasket, gasket between gearbox and mechatronik (2 small rubber sleeves) , filter…
But don’t know maybe I buy some spare valve body part (this what can crack) to have by hand if it’s broken than I can change it.. if it’s not I send it back to seller..
And when I give full trottle , between gear changes you can hear this air leak noise also
.. I know it’s oil leak but sounds like air leak
hi gary where can you buy the upper valve body the 2nd part of the valve body you where talking about and the components inside
Most auto trans parts suppliers can get the upper valve body. Zf Part number is 1058327075
any idea what would cause a surge from cold regardless of gear? It only affects the first selection from cold, any further selection is OK
what kind of car?
Hello Gary!! Thank you so much for great tutorial! I have one problem) After repair transmision i have just 1st gear... if i turn on 2nd gear - transmision is blocked and stop movin vehicle. What is problem can be?? Is it Valve Plate? Thank you for advice!
What did you do to the trans, sounds like its locking up.
+Gary Ferraro it was classic problems with Cluch A Drum and piston F. I changed all necesary O-rings, gaskets, friction plates, piston F and washed everything. Can that problem be in incorrectly installed Lower Front Valve Body?? Seems like VB not installed 100% on the place were it shall be a bit moved to the side clockwise.
the valvebody should go into dowel pins when setting it onto the case. When you put this back together, did you gease the 2 small teflon rings on the A drum, they can tear on reassembly.
+Gary Ferraro, it was my bad) freewheel cage installed incorrectly (upside down), it was lock in the wrong direction))) And everything is work!!! Thank you for your job!!! It's amazing! From Russia with love)))
Hi Mr. Gary, I would like to tell you about my hacking BMW e53 zf5hp24 hydraulic block I found a crack at the top, and for what reason it may have cracked please tell me help me very please
Excellent videos here, sir. I have 2 1998 Audi A8's with the 5hp24A variant. They are beautiful cars, purchased on the cheap due to trans issues. The first one I suspect the A drum is totally gone. I lost all forward motion one warm Minnesota afternoon after accelerating rapidly in 4th using the tiptronic. Reverse is good. The second A8 is all black I just bought a couple weeks ago. Slips in the first 3 gears, bangs from 3rd to 4th in tiptronic and regular drive. I can baby it along just fine with light acceleration through all gears using the tiptronic. I am planning on tearing down the black A8 first, and I will keep you posted on that progress. I bought the full version of Ross Tech's Vag Com and have started pulling codes! I'm really excited to get these cars back on the road again! Any tips are appreciated.
+fireofsev What codes are present?
+Gary Ferraro A total of 3 codes tripped for the black A8. Same codes came back after I cleared them.
16987- Internal Control Module P0603 -35-10- Non-Volatile Mem Error- Intermittent
17105 - Transmission Output Speed Sensor (G195) P0721 -35-10- Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17114 - Gear Ratio Monitoring P0730 - 35-10 - Incorrect Gear Ratio - Intermittent
I have not pulled codes on the first Audi I purchased. That one is currently in a garage for winter storage.
+fireofsev Being that fact that you have gear ratio codes and an output speed sensor code, you may want to try an output speed sensor first or put up live data and see if its working.
+Gary Ferraro When I'm off work tonight, I'll log that block to seeing it's working and report back.
+fireofsev ok, sounds good
Hey Gary, excellent informative videos for the 5HP24. I have a question for you.
I have a 2000 Audi A6 with the ZF 5HP24 in it which I rebuilt with new A clutch drum, clutches, seals, updated pressure regulator valve, Replaced F clutch piston. I watched your videos for tips on the assembly and it went together with no issues. However when I first started up the car and went to level up the fluid i noticed the level did not go down. I have no forward gears or reverse and I have a incorrect gear ratio code ( my guess is because I have no pressure). I seemed I had no hydraulic pressure. I removed the cooler lines and turned on the car and no fluid came out. I can't find fluid circuit diagrams for this transmission to aid in my diagnostic. What would cause no hydraulic pressure?
Before i rebuilt the transmission it had reverse and no forward gears....broken A clutch drum so i know the pump worked
I did not tear the pump down during my rebuild i left it alone
I have rebuilt a few transmissions before with no problems so I am aware of the need of being clean and organized
I don't hear any cavitating noise from the pump as if its being starved of fluid.
If you have ran into this before or have an idea of a direction to go with it I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks
There is a very good chance you damaged the pump, if the converter was not all the way in and then the trans was bolted up to the engine, the pump gear may have broke, if its not taking in the oil, the pump is damaged. Gary
Its funny you mention that when i was installing the trans the TQ was hard to turn then was easy after about a 1/8 turn when trying to line up bolt holes. I figured it was rubbing on the flywheel. It must have not been locked in all the way....Looks like I'm pulling out the tranny again. Thanks for your response Gary and thanks for the informative videos.
Ok, certainly sounds like the converter wasnt in far enough, also make sure the pilot is clean on the converter and where it rides. Gary
Pulled it apart and the notches for the converter were busted on the pump gear. I used a lot of assembly grease so the trans looks ok looks like nothing got hot. Going to get a new pump and try it again.
Thanks for your help Gary
ok, let me know how it goes. Gary
Hi, i got zf5hp19 but i got an intermittent jerk down shift 3 to 2 when come to stop or sudden breaking.. sometimes when tranny warm that jerk gone away.. it that same issue like you discribe in the video? Thanks in advance
On the %hp19 sometimes a bad EPC solenoid can cause that, that is the solenoid all by itself on the valvebody
@@GaryFerraro thanks for your answer, i check theris no code and i ever change eds 1 solenoid but still have that issue.. is there any suggestion what else i have to check?
Is there an adapt reset on a scan tool your using?@@zalroo537
Great video! Is this transmission used in a 2001 jaguar xj8?
yes
+ Gary Ferraro
Hi thank you for the awesome channel on the ZF transmission. I have a question for you. I am currently facing the random slip on the downshift from 4th to 3rd on my 2003 BMW X5 4.4. For example while driving at 40MPH - 50 MPH, slow down to turn right, then stepping on the gas after the right turn would occasionally develop a downshift slip. No engine code only the transmission code where it indicating the slippage from 4th to 3rd and the temperature that it recorded which has never exceeding 85 degree celsius. I have drained and replace 4.5 litter of fluid and also check on the fluid level and the problem still exist. I am thinking it has to do with the pressure regulator but not 100% sure. I already have the new pressure regulator from transgo but haven't replace it yet. The valve body is out of the trans and I dont see any crack. What would you recommend?
It almost sounds like a low fluid condition, you may want to change out the filter, use OE, if the valvebody was cracked that would cause it to fall out of speed when coming to a stop. so the fluid came out of the fill/check hole when you checked the level?
Gary Ferraro
Yes the fluid is coming out the filler hole at about 40 degree Celsius
Gary Ferraro
Since I have ordered the pressure regulator valve kit made by transgo. Should I replaced it while I have it out. I am waiting for the new OE filter to put in.
i would , certainly cant hurt, you will have to put the resizers on the valve and put the valve in the freezer for about an hour and the valve will slide right in, (if this is the kit im thinking of)
Gary Ferraro
Will do that. I am hoping new valve and new filter will fix the issue. I will report back once I get everything back and tested
Hello great video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. My BMW X5 4.4 I personally rebuilt the trans by watching your videos. I put an aftermarket filter and I did not change the vavle body gasket. Lately once it get warm the trans is having a lil hard time picking up. I change the fluid found no metal...any advice
Any noises coming from the trans when hot? I never use aftermarket filters on these transmissions , can cause issues
No noise, no code from transmission. The x5 is struggling to pick speed especially uphill. When it does pick up speed, twice I feel a kick in the back. I did found my rear differential fluid milky. I flush it out and refilled it..I keep thinking it could be the aftermarket filter...if so where can I purchase those filters online
@@kentpayen8848 What was original problem?
Do you know who the maker of the filter is?
The transmission went. From the planetary gear down to the clutches. I replace all of them. The transmission been good for the pass 3 years. Until 2 weeks ago on third gear the rpm will jump about 200 rpm and it will catch .. it doesn't feel to me it's slipping. The filter I don't recall the brand. I know for a fact its aftermarket.
@@kentpayen8848 so it had this problem before the filter change?
Hello Mr.Ferraro Great video ! I Performed the valve body high pressure valve and spring only ,at first it seemed to have worked , but now the zf5hp24 is starting to bang into gear coming to a stop again , but not as harsh yet as before, do you happen to know the link, so i could purchase the valvebody , if you get the time , Thank you very much, peace
+melobmw1 The company i use to get my valvebody parts from is called Erikssons industries. Gary
Gary Ferraro hi is there a way i cant write to you about something? My mechanic wants to rip me off im kinda desperate. I need to buy this part but the mechanic tells me that the part number has to match this code. 1058427022 f8 i found the part but the F letter on it has 7 does this matter? ( he says it has to be exact the same even the f8 number for calibration ) Sorry for bothering you im desperate cause he wants 3.000 for the valve body but in ebay i found one for 500. But its missing the f8 number at the end. Please if u can reply i would really appreciate this. Thanks.
I have a 2003 x5 with that tranny. It has two problems I can not figure out maybe you could help. The reverse has half power no mater what temp all other gears work perfect. It has vibration at idle if I just touch the gas it goes away nice and smooth. Do you have any idea what I should check out?
is it slipping in reverse?
@@GaryFerraro Yes sir. No noises it engages smooth just slips to about half power.
@@ratsrodsgarage461 Common problem for the F clutch piston to Debond causing a slip in reverse. The F clutch and C clutch are on in reverse
Getting ready to tear down my XJ8 transmission. It had no symptoms, no slip, no noise. 90K miles. Put in park and now no gears. No forward, no reverse. Changed fluid and filter (OEM) disconnected fluid line at radiator to see pressure: no pressure.
Any ideas?
Question, did you change the fluid after the no move condition?
Changed fluid 5 quarts and oem filter
Ok, next question, you filled it til it ran out, then when you started the engine(2nd fill) did it take more fluid or did it seem full?
Not much more, maybe half quart, probably less. I jacked the car up higher in the back to get more in. I spoke with a guy from erikssons who said I could have sheared the tangs off the torque converter that locate the pump. After filling it I ran it through the gears, checked the codes. Only code was 1722 for slippage, which cleared when the key was turned off. No,noise, no jerking, nothing. The gears just vanished.
Additionally: there was no metal in the pan, just a light coating of clutch dust. Filter was good, nothing untoward at all.
hi, i found cracked of piece in mine too. thanks.
you found the valvebody cracked?
@@GaryFerraro in the same place like you mentioned in the video.
Hi Gary, I am in Australia and am loving your videos! You are a Master! Can you please tell me if a 5hp24 029 valve body can be fiited to a 5hp24 034 transmission? I have read they may have differences that they are not interchangeable?
I'm honestly not sure, when i have to look into that, they normally go by the transmission number stamped into the case. Are they from different cars(one is a BMW and one is a Jaguar)?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the reply Gary! I have a bmw 2003 e53 X5 4.6is and the upper valve body is cracked like in the video. The 4.6is is rare and almost impossible to find as the number is 034 5hp24 transmission. The standard 4.4i X5 is a 029 5hp24 transmission. I have read on some forums that the 034 upper valve body is different to the 029 valve body on the inside?
@@wierdodude102 It may be but the casting may be the same, i know the lower front section of the valvebody , the castings are all the same
@@GaryFerraro I found out that the castings are all the same but the valves in the upper valve body in question are different. So I can use the same upper valve body but need to swap valves over. Is this easy to do?
@@wierdodude102 Yes, that shouldn't be a problem, the valves and springs should come right out, just do one at a time
ps.when park and go to "N" its still pooling forward. ..
Where can I buy ECS4 solenoid for the TCC on a ZF5HP24A ?
erikssons industries in CT
Thanks. Due to the Solenoid price , I just purchased a complete rebuild of the valve body from Eriksson. I have dealt with them in the past and they are good.
es, i buy alot from them,please let me know how it works out.
What kind of defect do you know? d Does it not start moving and at high torque will the car suddenly slip out of place, or will electric welding fix the problem? Thank you very much
Temuri cxadaberidze A ZF5HP24 does not have a hydraulic block. Does the transmission slip on takeoff?
@@GaryFerraro ruclips.net/video/gfWc0UwW6uw/видео.html
@@GaryFerraro ruclips.net/video/jmmf0ZxMvbY/видео.html
@@GaryFerraro Mr. Gary. It works idly in the R mode and as for the D mode it tows at low revs, with just a few pushes in the manual mode and when the high revs start it delays and then the car stops instantly.
@@GaryFerraro Sorry for bothering you. But nights I don't sleep so I want to do it myself
Thank You!
+melobmw1 Your welcome
I am from Georgia and our professional car masters have a great time helping me please and advice
hi there, if the valvebody damaged than what will be hapend of the car ?
If the lower front half is worn, the pressure spikes and the A drum cracks. If the upper rear section cracks car will fall out of speed when coming to a stop.
My e-mail gsferraro@yahoo.com
thanks a lot sir
Welcome
Hello Gary, excellent videos!
I'm currently having an intermittent 'Trans Failsafe Prog' message come up on my 1998 540i with 190k miles. Accompanying codes are P1734 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Electrical and P1738 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Electrical.
Sometimes I turn the car on and 'trans failsafe prog' comes on right away. Sometimes it only comes on when I drive hard and hit 3.5k rpm. This is independent of transmission temperature. Happens when cold or hot. I don't know where to start. Alternator and battery are in normal operation. Fluid and filter have been changed periodically and level is correct. When transmission is not in failsafe, it shifts perfectly.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
First thing is unplug the eletrical connector and check for corrosion or bad connection(pins pushed back into the harness
+Gary Ferraro thank you for the reply! Checked egs connectors and they are bone dry and very clean.
I'm now also getting a very loud noise coming from the transmission when not in trans failsafe mode. it sounds like a turbo with a bad bearing. Noise increases and decreases with rpm. Noise goes away in limp mode. I'm doubting its the solenoids at this point because what is the chance two go bad within a few miles of each other? Thank you sir.
Is the noise always there or only when hot?
Both cold and hot and only when NOT in limp mode. Noise is much reduced when in limp mode, almost normal.
ok, one more question, is the noise also in park and neutral?