Hey Gary, thanks for helping me thus far. I just put the transgo valve into the valve body, but before I put the plate and gasket over the main part I wanted to ask you a question. In my ZF master rebuild kit I have the rubber pulse reducer and the metal piece with the rubber ball on the end. In my valve body the metal piece was in there, but I didn’t see where the rubber piece went. Is that one or the other based on make and model?
Thanks for the video you are a true legend. I have dissasembled my valvebody on my 2001 audi A8 5hp24a can i buy a valvebody from a 5hp24 or is there any diffrences. Thanks again!
I am trying to rebuild this vb, the ZF kit came with all new springs but the new ones are either longer with same diameter or smaller diameter but same length. I'm at a loss following the schematic. It regarding spring 55.030. use same diameter but longer or other one or original? this is for an 2002 S6 quattro.
Hi Gary, I have a 98 jag with zf5hp24 trans. I have 60,000 miles and no trans issues BUT I have heard these trans are ticking time bombs. A jag mechanic told me 90% of the failures are A drums breaking *** but that 80% of those failures are due to a valve or solenoid that allows too much pressure on the already weak designed A drum. Is this true ? He said the part was cheap - should I have this replaced before it takes out the tranny ?
Yes, that is correct. The bore wears out on the main pressure regulator valve(lower front half of the valvebody) it creates pressure spikes and blows the A drum. People that know about this had me do the lower valvebody for "preventive maintenance"
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the reply Gary, do you know ballpark how much a service like that cost OR how much are the parts and how many labor hours ? Are you near NYC ?
I was originally getting a P0741 code. So I replaced the pressure regulator solenoid and did I fluid and filter change but the code remained. Then I disassembled the entire valve body and put the transgo regulator valve in. I was still stuck in fail safe 4 with no manual gears even after restart. I then replaced the tcm. And got all gears back . Drove well for 4months now I have slippage in 3-4 shift into fail safe and slippage in fail safe also. I can only drive in manual 1-3 until fail safe into 4 then 5 and revs until I downshift back to 3.
I was inspecting the valves and bores and was hoping that cleaning it would help. I don't know if it did or not. I forgot to mention I replaced the solenoid harness also.
Hey garry, love youre videos, so many shops must hate you for them. Ive got an issue with a ZF 5HP24A in my 04' audi allroad v8. Ironically im a tech at a audi dealership but the workshop manual is pretty light when it comes to information on the guts of the transmission. When the torque converter lock up clutch is in the controlled slipping phase from around 1300-1900rpm i get a cyclic flareing of the lock up clutch going between locked and slipping, over 1900rpm when it goes full locked i have no issues. would you suspect this is a pressure regulation issue from the valve body or more likely the solenoid having trouble controlling oil flow/pressure at low duties? Any help would be great. many thanks, Mike
Gary Ferraro thanks very much for the reply. Zero codes. the measured value data shows zero rpm difference between engine and transmission input when closed. it's cyclic, only when the converter lock up is slightly dutied , when it's in this mode it shows a solenoid valve current value of between 0.30-0.45a lock value is 0.7 and solidly locked
Gary Ferraro nah it doesn't judder or shudder when the LC is going from open to locked. but I would call the locking abrupt, what I think is happening is the TCU Is asking for controlled slippage of the LC but when the solenoid is dutied and oil is supplied the converter locks fully instead of slipping slightly. the root cause, I'm not sure. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks mike
Hello, I'd like to change oil on a 5HP24A. I'd like to disassemble the valve body completely, and check everything. Do you have any advice on what I should change (with the hypothesis that everything is normal), like seals, bolts, gaskets ... ? Thank you.
+slklite Change the oil and filter is fine, use only OE filter, aftermarket filters on this trans are no good. I would only recommend disassembly of this valvebody to an experienced rebuilder, there are many small oriffices located in the channel plate section that would have to go back exactly where they belong. The only thing you can do is change the lower front section(this can be done without total disassembly) they are known for bore wear, but keep in mind all the valves and springs have to be changed over as well.
+Gary Ferraro Hello Gary, thank you for your answer. I wanted to clean the valve body because I have some problems with my transmission, and I thought that it could be a good idea to do something like in here : www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/527361 forums.audipassion.com/topic/141431-revision-bva-5hp24-zf-dortmund/ About my problems : the gearbox seems confused about finding the right gear on heavy load and uphill roads... But when driving with not a heavy foot, everything seems normal. Sometimes it seems the gear is lost and then, it comes back suddenlywith a clunk (but it's rare)... Thank you for your help !!!
+Gary Ferraro Hello, here are the trouble codes in the trans : 17125 - Torque Converter Clutch P0741 - 35-00 - Stuck OFF / No Power being transferred 17114 - Gear Ratio Monitoring P0730 - 35-10 - Incorrect Gear Ratio - Intermittent
+Gary Ferraro Thanks for the quick reply i appreciate it Gary & This is the one im talking about the one in the pic it goes where he is pointing i put it in the little opening to the left of it car drives & reverse but i only have first & reverse gear lost all other, could this small ever been it im 100% i didnt do anything else wrong i took 3 days too have everything on point & now im lost s268.photobucket.com/user/transman618/media/Picture.jpg.html
yea. my teacher asks about those, i searched on youtube and another guy doesnt show that he does anything to it, and i watched your whole video and didnt see you do it either. he said we need a special tool to press down that spring.
Hey Gary, thanks for helping me thus far. I just put the transgo valve into the valve body, but before I put the plate and gasket over the main part I wanted to ask you a question. In my ZF master rebuild kit I have the rubber pulse reducer and the metal piece with the rubber ball on the end. In my valve body the metal piece was in there, but I didn’t see where the rubber piece went. Is that one or the other based on make and model?
Thanks for the video you are a true legend. I have dissasembled my valvebody on my 2001 audi A8 5hp24a can i buy a valvebody from a 5hp24 or is there any diffrences. Thanks again!
I do believe thay are different, i would say no to that
Hi Gary, another great video! Can you tell me what the small spring and check valve in the upper section of the valve body controls and does?
I believe its a relief valve and spring.
I am trying to rebuild this vb, the ZF kit came with all new springs but the new ones are either longer with same diameter or smaller diameter but same length. I'm at a loss following the schematic. It regarding spring 55.030. use same diameter but longer or other one or original? this is for an 2002 S6 quattro.
Hi Gary, I have a 98 jag with zf5hp24 trans. I have 60,000 miles and no trans issues BUT I have heard these trans are ticking time bombs. A jag mechanic told me 90% of the failures are A drums breaking *** but that 80% of those failures are due to a valve or solenoid that allows too much pressure on the already weak designed A drum. Is this true ? He said the part was cheap - should I have this replaced before it takes out the tranny ?
Yes, that is correct. The bore wears out on the main pressure regulator valve(lower front half of the valvebody) it creates pressure spikes and blows the A drum. People that know about this had me do the lower valvebody for "preventive maintenance"
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the reply Gary, do you know ballpark how much a service like that cost OR how much are the parts and how many labor hours ? Are you near NYC ?
@@instructionaldesigner7310 I am on Long Island NY, will let you know,
great video
+احمد محمد Thank you and thanks for watching.
Hello Gary, Did you put the updated pressure regulator valve into this valve body? Would you recommend it for the 03-05 Range Rover?
steelers412 I always put the 2nd design ref valve in. Check the bore make sure it's not worn
Ok. Thanks I did install the upgrade one also. He drove well for 4months. Now I'm getting p0730 P0735 and sometimes p0894 and p0741.
so what exactly did you do, overhaul? or just install the updated valve? what was original problem?
I was originally getting a P0741 code. So I replaced the pressure regulator solenoid and did I fluid and filter change but the code remained. Then I disassembled the entire valve body and put the transgo regulator valve in. I was still stuck in fail safe 4 with no manual gears even after restart. I then replaced the tcm. And got all gears back . Drove well for 4months now I have slippage in 3-4 shift into fail safe and slippage in fail safe also. I can only drive in manual 1-3 until fail safe into 4 then 5 and revs until I downshift back to 3.
I was inspecting the valves and bores and was hoping that cleaning it would help. I don't know if it did or not. I forgot to mention I replaced the solenoid harness also.
Hey garry, love youre videos, so many shops must hate you for them. Ive got an issue with a ZF 5HP24A in my 04' audi allroad v8. Ironically im a tech at a audi dealership but the workshop manual is pretty light when it comes to information on the guts of the transmission. When the torque converter lock up clutch is in the controlled slipping phase from around 1300-1900rpm i get a cyclic flareing of the lock up clutch going between locked and slipping, over 1900rpm when it goes full locked i have no issues. would you suspect this is a pressure regulation issue from the valve body or more likely the solenoid having trouble controlling oil flow/pressure at low duties? Any help would be great. many thanks, Mike
Question, are there any codes? Can you see live data, wondering what the slip rpm is when fully locked
Gary Ferraro thanks very much for the reply. Zero codes. the measured value data shows zero rpm difference between engine and transmission input when closed. it's cyclic, only when the converter lock up is slightly dutied , when it's in this mode it shows a solenoid valve current value of between 0.30-0.45a lock value is 0.7 and solidly locked
Ok, at zero rpm its locked on. with what your describing, does it feel like a "rough road" going into lock-up?
Gary Ferraro nah it doesn't judder or shudder when the LC is going from open to locked. but I would call the locking abrupt, what I think is happening is the TCU Is asking for controlled slippage of the LC but when the solenoid is dutied and oil is supplied the converter locks fully instead of slipping slightly. the root cause, I'm not sure. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks mike
Ok, next question(sorry for the questions), does this happen all the time or only when cold but its ok hot
Hello, I'd like to change oil on a 5HP24A. I'd like to disassemble the valve body completely, and check everything. Do you have any advice on what I should change (with the hypothesis that everything is normal), like seals, bolts, gaskets ... ?
Thank you.
+slklite Change the oil and filter is fine, use only OE filter, aftermarket filters on this trans are no good. I would only recommend disassembly of this valvebody to an experienced rebuilder, there are many small oriffices located in the channel plate section that would have to go back exactly where they belong. The only thing you can do is change the lower front section(this can be done without total disassembly) they are known for bore wear, but keep in mind all the valves and springs have to be changed over as well.
+Gary Ferraro Hello Gary, thank you for your answer. I wanted to clean the valve body because I have some problems with my transmission, and I thought that it could be a good idea to do something like in here :
www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/527361
forums.audipassion.com/topic/141431-revision-bva-5hp24-zf-dortmund/
About my problems : the gearbox seems confused about finding the right gear on heavy load and uphill roads... But when driving with not a heavy foot, everything seems normal. Sometimes it seems the gear is lost and then, it comes back suddenlywith a clunk (but it's rare)...
Thank you for your help !!!
are you getting any trouble codes
+Gary Ferraro Hello, here are the trouble codes in the trans :
17125 - Torque Converter Clutch
P0741 - 35-00 - Stuck OFF / No Power being transferred
17114 - Gear Ratio Monitoring
P0730 - 35-10 - Incorrect Gear Ratio - Intermittent
is this full of fluid,? what type of car is it?
hey what happens if you put a 3-4 accumulator check ball in the wrong hole?
+Wilbert Mendoza It may not shift correctly,(hard shift,flare up) are you talking about a check ball or the small orifice
+Gary Ferraro Thanks for the quick reply i appreciate it Gary & This is the one im talking about the one in the pic it goes where he is pointing i put it in the little opening to the left of it car drives & reverse but i only have first & reverse gear lost all other, could this small ever been it im 100% i didnt do anything else wrong i took 3 days too have everything on point & now im lost s268.photobucket.com/user/transman618/media/Picture.jpg.html
+Wilbert Mendoza This trans is a 4L60E, if you left the checkball out by mistake, i would put the ball in and try it, that could be your problem.
+Gary Ferraro ok thansk for the quick reply going to put it in the right place & double check it
+Wilbert Mendoza ok sounds good
can you reupload this in better quality please?
I will check to see if i still have this on my computer
Gary Ferraro another question about the piston seals inside the clutches. Do you replace those too?
Do you mean the seals in the drums that apply the clutches?
yea. my teacher asks about those, i searched on youtube and another guy doesnt show that he does anything to it, and i watched your whole video and didnt see you do it either. he said we need a special tool to press down that spring.
Just in the video, i didnt take the pistons out, but i always change the seals on every rebuild
so may I have your email ?