Oh man, I could watch this kind of thing all day. Great information going along with nice accompanying visuals. Very cool to watch the start to finish. Thanks for sharing this, would love to see more!
Hi Patrick hello from France ! I started cutting like 1week ago and i have already done some stone and my polish on stone is more like ice freezy , we don't see throught . Do u think its because of my polishing step on my copper lap with a 10k diamond paste / oil which is too big grit ? Btw i'm waiting to receive a 60k diamond powder , do u think with the same copper lap and this powder the polish gonna be a lot more mirror clean see through ? If yes , Do u think i stop using my 3000 grit diamond lap for prepolish and just prepolish with copper lap and the 10k diamond paste and switch to final polish on same copper lap with the 60k powder ? Thx for your responses !
@guinardalexandre5320 congrats on starting your faceting journey! Yes, 10k is generally still in the pre-polish category and you'll get much better results at 60k. You might be able to skip 3k, but it depends on the stone size and your previous cutting grit size. Going from 1200 to 10k is more manageable than 600 or coarser, but if it's a larger stone you may still want that 3k stage. You can't use the same copper lap for both 10k and 60k and switch back and forth, you will need to get another lap if you plan to use both grit stages in the future.
@@DonohueLabs Thanks for your advices , its very clear ! And last question for prepolish / polish lap : There is any difference between a copper / tin / others materials lap for prepolishing / polish , maybe there is one more specialized for a step in particulary ?
@@guinardalexandre5320 Different lap materials have different hardness, which may affect their performance for certain stones. Some people will say if you're cutting lots of harder stones like sapphire, you'll want a harder lap like BATT or ceramic, where others will say they have nothing but problems using those same laps. What works for one faceter will not always work for another as there are many factors at play like hand pressure, how much polish or oil you use, etc. The best sequence and laps to use are the ones that work for you. If you can go from 1200 grit to polish, do it and save yourself several hours. If your best results come from a 1200-3k-10k-60k sequence then that's what you have to do. I've only ever used pure tin for polish so I can't speak to which other lap materials may work best. That works for me, so I stick with it. Some harder lap materials like ceramic you can clean off and change grit size because the diamonds do not embed like they do with softer laps (like copper or tin).
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
WOW! Those side facets really look amazing! Nice job
Oh man, I could watch this kind of thing all day. Great information going along with nice accompanying visuals. Very cool to watch the start to finish. Thanks for sharing this, would love to see more!
Beautiful cut!!👍😎👻🌶️
Well done, thx for sharing!
Great work. Just got my Faceting machine but won’t be trying that design for some time. 😊
Nicely done. On very small tourmaline I will on purpose not cut to a culet .so that the shrinkage effect of the glue doesn't snap it off.
Hi Patrick hello from France !
I started cutting like 1week ago and i have already done some stone and my polish on stone is more like ice freezy , we don't see throught .
Do u think its because of my polishing step on my copper lap with a 10k diamond paste / oil which is too big grit ?
Btw i'm waiting to receive a 60k diamond powder , do u think with the same copper lap and this powder the polish gonna be a lot more mirror clean see through ?
If yes ,
Do u think i stop using my 3000 grit diamond lap for prepolish and just prepolish with copper lap and the 10k diamond paste and switch to final polish on same copper lap with the 60k powder ?
Thx for your responses !
@guinardalexandre5320 congrats on starting your faceting journey!
Yes, 10k is generally still in the pre-polish category and you'll get much better results at 60k.
You might be able to skip 3k, but it depends on the stone size and your previous cutting grit size. Going from 1200 to 10k is more manageable than 600 or coarser, but if it's a larger stone you may still want that 3k stage.
You can't use the same copper lap for both 10k and 60k and switch back and forth, you will need to get another lap if you plan to use both grit stages in the future.
@@DonohueLabs Thanks for your advices , its very clear !
And last question for prepolish / polish lap :
There is any difference between a copper / tin / others materials lap for prepolishing / polish , maybe there is one more specialized for a step in particulary ?
@@guinardalexandre5320 Different lap materials have different hardness, which may affect their performance for certain stones. Some people will say if you're cutting lots of harder stones like sapphire, you'll want a harder lap like BATT or ceramic, where others will say they have nothing but problems using those same laps. What works for one faceter will not always work for another as there are many factors at play like hand pressure, how much polish or oil you use, etc. The best sequence and laps to use are the ones that work for you. If you can go from 1200 grit to polish, do it and save yourself several hours. If your best results come from a 1200-3k-10k-60k sequence then that's what you have to do.
I've only ever used pure tin for polish so I can't speak to which other lap materials may work best. That works for me, so I stick with it.
Some harder lap materials like ceramic you can clean off and change grit size because the diamonds do not embed like they do with softer laps (like copper or tin).
HERMOSO TRABAJÓ Patrick