dude appreciate all your help. got the QUICRUN 16BL30 ESC installed with a fresh deans connector solder on and what a difference. Its like I am not even driving the same truck. HW makes some really nice ESCs.
Awesome video, thanks for the help. My son and I are just getting into the hobby. I got the tires you recommend to start. Also bought the bezgar version coming in next week. Looking forward to more videos
thats cool!. I run a 1/16 h16bm hyper go. 3s angry snail Lipo, locked diffs, hub extensions an 1/10 traxxas crawler wheels. upgraded suspension and the same quicrun esc. I got the quicrun idea from this vid. thanks
Hi. Cool vid. Could you please explain exactly how you loosen the latch clip so it can be pulled up and closed over the taller 2200 Ovonic battery. I don't have the car in my possession, but am considering the purchase. Is there just a nut underneath the latch clip you can loosen a bit? Assume it's straight forward? Also if you put the battery in the opposite way (wries facing front of vehicle), is the body of the battery to tall to slide under the little plastic keepers at the back. Finally, if you can be bothered and have the time, what is the tallest battery that will fit under the standard latch and keepers without any modification. Cheers.
If you feel comfortable taking the front upper section off you can use a screwdriver to loosen it...though it's probably easier to use a pliers and hold the screw while turning the latch counter-clockwise. Make sure to trim the hang down of the latch if you're using longer batteries and to put a piece of foam (the black thing in the vid below the power switch) to keep the steering linkage area open.
Yes the battery I'm using is too tall to fit under the back lip. The only reason I put the battery in backwards is because of the battery and ESC cable length, it fits under the body better this way. Without any changes 15mm is the tallest you can go. If you trim off the latch lip you can go 21mm. The back lip has the same clearance as the latch with the lip trimmed off.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thanks for this! I've been scouring RUclips and Facebook for hours trying to figure out which of the two ovonic 2200mah 3s batteries I should get. I'm still not entirely sure LOL. The longer skinnier one is 101x31x20mm And then the ones you're using.. So what you're saying here is that, if I do go with the longer skinnier one, all I'll need to do is trim the lip off the latch, and it should fit and give clearance for the steering linkage? Sorry, I know you've tried to be painstakingly clear about this, but I'm having trouble deciding which overpriced battery I want to order through Amazon in Canada, since there are very little Alternatives that can be shipped to my area. Thanks again. 🙌
@@willpowerfpv3246 It's all good. 101mm is too long as it will be in the way of the steering linkage. 95mm is the longest I'd go. You'll want a battery that's at least 22mm tall so the latch can push down on the battery and help keep it in place. There's a little lip protruding by the steering linkage in the battery tray area. That is the absolute max length you can without getting in the way. Best thing to do is get some hard foam with adhesive on one end and make a little block to help keep the battery from shifting forward. The only reason I went with the batteries I did was because they were the highest capacity I could find that would still fit.
Are you talking about the one that comes with the RC or the Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL30? Both have LVC (3V for stock, adjustable for the HW) but I'd suggest not using the stock ESC as there's a 1 second delay with throttle inputs.
@@sambosher2165 All depends on what receiver you use. 2 spots will always be taken by the ESC and steering servo. You can always use a splitter to have more connections.
I wish I could just upgrade the steering servo. New ESC does give it better response though. Just not sure how long the gears would last on 3s not giving it the double brake tap kind of deal in the fvd/rev. I have my stock one backed down on the throttle lol, but I use it for FPV so I'm not trying to blast off anyway. Problem is just on carpet or something the servo isn't strong enough to turn the tires hardly any at all so long as it's sitting still.
That's odd as the stock servo is strong enough for my setup. You can replace it with a sub-micro. You'd just need to cut off the side "wings" and drop it in. The gears are more than adequate. It's the screws that hold the diffs together that need to be stronger. I already broke them in the rear from hammering the throttle at a dead stop.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE It's strange cause I liked the servo when first seeing how responsive and fast it was, and it seemed good enough.. but even on a hard surface like smooth plastic it won't always turn the wheels all the way left or right. To be fair I've added a good deal of weight to it (for its size) but did notice the steering issue all stock just riding it on the carpet. I'll try out another one just to see and clip the wings like you say. I wasn't sure about the whether the shaft would line up the same but I suppose it would.
@@Magneticitist One thing you can try doing is mod the servo horn for a tighter fit. There's 2 pieces to the horn. The part that goes over the servo spline and the arm that connects to the steering linkage. Take the horn apart and shave off just enough of the spline part so when the horn is together it's recessed a bit. That way the screw and spring hold the arm on tighter. You'll run the risk of stripping the servo gears easier (they're all metal so it won't be that easy) but you'll have a lot less slop in the steering. Email me if you want pics of what I'm talking about.
I bought it that way. You can buy another truck that has the clipless body and move the mounts over. I'm sure if you go on eBay or ali you can find the body mounts as well.
Hi. I have the same car, and bought the same Receiver. But the conectors of the car are bigger then the conection pins of the Receiver. How did you overcome this?
If you're talking about the plastic 3-pin plugs you'll have to shave off the tabs that prevent the plug from being inserted in the wrong direction. Take a pair of wire snips or a razor blade and cut it off. When inserting the plus just make sure you put them in in the right direction. On the receiver you'll see a little +, - and a square looking S. The S is for the signal wire which is white...though I've seen them yellow before
I have the 16208 MJX Hyper Go and I'll tell you that its one of my favorite R/Cs in years AND the stock ESC is garbage. And I am pretty tolerant, but I don't even want to drive it. It pauses, brakes so hard the car crashed and ruined the body, doesn't respond to inputs, is erratic, etc. Is there any heating issues with the QUICRUN 16BL30 ESC and the stock 2845 motor? The junk that is in there now gets red hot just looking at it. lol
@@goldenmanuever1176 If you plan on running yours on 3S I strongly suggest finding stronger screws for the front and rear diff housing. The stock ones have a bad habit of snapping off
@@goldenmanuever1176 I'd suggest finding some fine thread steel screws and throw the stock coarse thread ones away. Preferably they should be a hair bigger in diameter than the stock screws (I haven't actually measured them). Screws of the same diameter should still work though.
Iv got three questions for you! First of iv read you replaced the diff screws did yiu use a machine thread? And have you played around with diff oils? And what shock oil do yiu use the stock weight seems light as the shocks are alittle spring bound imo
Honestly I don't remember what screws I used. I used whatever I had laying around that worked. The springs I used are for a Losi Mini B I think, Losi mini something. Just trim them down to the same length. I'm running 70wt but I'm probably going to drop down to 60wt.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thank for that, and what weight diff oil are you using, my 16208 only arrived this week so iv not stripped it down yet but the diffs feel dry when you turn the wheels
Have you found upgraded diffs for this car? I heard that was the weakest point. I haven't heard much about the esc delay, could it be that its only your car?
The only thing weak about the diffs are the 4 screws that hold them together. I've snapped them a few times just running the thing on the road. I tried 3 different ESCs and every single one had the delay. The ESC is a cheap POS knock-off of the HW 16BL30 that's been modified.
I only bought this battery set because it was the perfect size for this RC. Haven't really had much experience with them otherwise. I do however have a lot of HOOVO batteries from Amazon. Not sure if they're as good as say Gens Ace but for the price it's a no brainer.
Coming from the world of fpv quadcopter, ovonic has really stepped up their game in the last few years. I know a lot of guys running them, and I have a couple of 1300mah 6s packs with hundreds of Cycles on them, and they've been doing great. They're a bit heavy and chunky for the size, but I suppose that doesn't really matter with surface Vehicles, as long as they fit in the tray.
@@willpowerfpv3246 I mainly run HOOVO batteries in my larger RCs like my X Maxx. Probably not the best but they're super cheap for the capacity and I have yet to have any issues with them.
It all depends on the capacity. Theoretically a 3S 2000mAh battery will have the same runtime as a 2S 2000mAh battery. The difference is voltage. A fully charged 3S will be at 12.6V (4.2V per cell). A fully charged 2S will be at 8.4V. The more volts the faster the motor will spin. There are HV versions of Li-Po batteries that can do 4.35V per cell but you'd have to make sure the ESC you're planning on using can support them.
I've never tried Zee batteries. Honestly it's down to whatever battery fits the best. You can ignore C ratings on nearly every brand battery especially the cheap ones as that rating is highly exaggerated.
I have two Zeee 2S 2200mAh batteries and at 1C charge / discharge rate I measured them to have actually 2500mAh which is super refreshing with all the bloody lying manufacturers. I can not say if this is always the case for Zeee batteries but at least my batch was a good one. I think the 2200 mAh are too long for my 16207/16210 however. I am planning to 3D print myself some holding adapters for bigger batteries however some time in the future.
Ovonic 3s short pack, do they fit well, I know they're soft packs but do they get damaged? I am about to buy the 16208 and am only getting 1 original battery, I prefer to use my own balance charger. Just wondering if the Ovonics are worth the $ and fit.
You will have to cut the latch lip off and loosen the latch clip, but after that they fit perfectly. Soft packs are actually pretty strong as long as you don't puncture them. Definitely a worthwhile purchase. I get almost a half hour of runtime with moderate use and about 20 mins of hard use.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thx for the reply, I am getting mixed info from the manufacturer citing the battery is 26 mm in height. - Length(dev.5mm) : 76mm - Width(dev.2mm) : 34mm - Height(dev.2mm) : 26mm It's a bit of a pita, I was speaking to the distributor of the the car today and they claimed they would get 20 mins off a 3S 1300 mAH lipo? I hate the proprietary batteries as I want to use my own charger, I know you only need a JST cable, but again I was mislead somewhat from the distributor who could not tell me exactly what I needed. If I just need a 3S balance cable to enable me to use my charger, that's all I need to know. The guy I was talking to today just couldn't answer definitively if I did. I can get the 16208 with 1 2S battery for 145 AUD, I can get the 16207 with 2 3S batteries for 170. So it's an extra $25 AUD to go from a single 2S to 2 3S. Super cheap. You can see my issue here and I prefer the 16208 as it has a flexible bumper with clip on body + higher clearance. They just do not come with the 3S batteries where I live, so I am looking at a cost effective solution without having to go too extreme. Are the stock 3S batteries ok to use?
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE I will add too, I have a WLtoys 124016 which the radio had a major deadspot. I swapped it out for the FlySky FS-GT2 and I fixed the deadspot. Do I need a new ESC or is it the radio?
@@DankePlace I've never owned the stock 3S batteries but I have used aftermarket 3S on the stock ESC and it works perfectly fine. It's the delay of the ESC that convinced me to change it to the Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL30. The receiver that comes with the truck is actually pretty good for what it is. The Ovonic is 75mm x 32mm x 25mm.
@@DankePlace I don't own that vehicle but for the Hyper Go the delay is definitely with the ESC. I originally thought it was the receiver so I threw in a Spektrum SR315 and the delay was still there. I tried the stock receiver with the Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL30 and while there is a small deadspot, there's no input delay. If you don't need super fine throttle control you can save money and use the stock receiver. I wouldn't use it in something like my X Maxx but for 10th scale and smaller it's perfectly fine.
They work pretty good for the intended purpose. Maybe a half hour of hard throttle...though it's hard to keep the throttle pinned as it wants to backflip all the time if you do
Factory setup is fine but I did program it. I changed the LVC to 6, start mode to 7, max brake force to 2 and timing to 4. If you leave the stock tires on you can leave the brake force and timing alone. If you're starting off with the brushless model you can use the receiver it comes with and you won't need the AUX switch.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE I tried to use a FlySky GT-5 and receiver FS-BS6 with the stock ESC, but it is not working well. There is a big delay for throttle and sometimes it is going to wrong direction for a second. Did you try your Spektrum radio with stock ESC?
@@ondrej3934 I did. I found that the delay is with the stock ESC and not the receiver. I'm actually using the receiver the Hyper Go came with in a buggy I upgraded to brushless and it works perfectly. About the wrong directing, just swap the outer 2 plugs.
I got these exact batteries but for the life of me I can’t see how you get that battery holder up and over. Even after trimming off the underside little stopper making it flush, it’s not even close to reaching the clip, even pulling it up like you do with that little hook and wire. Did you make any other mods to get that to work that I’m not seeing??
You have to loosen the screw that the latch clip is held on with. Just use a pliers and hold the screw head and twist the clip counter-clockwise a few times till you can get the latch secured over the battery.
The stock motor is perfectly fine. Just make sure the ESC you put in uses 3.5mm bullet connectors for the motor. The servo has metal gears and is quite fast. I wouldn't recommend changing it unless you have money to burn.
Hey man that’s a sick setup! Btw you upgraded the steering servo? I have the same car model and apparently my servo is causing some connection troubles with the receiver and the controller, idk what servo is better for this car. I’m new to rc with this H16BM car, any suggestions? Appreciate it man, I subscribed!
I'm still running the stock servo. The one that comes with the brushless motor is actually quite good for what it is. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if the issue wasn't the servo but the receiver itself...if you're using the receiver it came with. You'll have a hard time finding an aftermarket servo to throw in. The stock one is sized a bit odd if I remember correctly. It doesn't have the mounting "wings" so if you do replace it you'll have to cut them off
They aren't. They're Pro-Line Trencher 2.2" M2 wheels meant for the Traxxas E-Revo 1/16. They come in packs of 2 and are $35 each. If you put them on make sure to lower the wheelie bar to the lowest position
Actually it's faster than the stock ESC (which can't be programmed. I tried) even before I put the larger tires on. The stock ESC is perfectly fine for young children as most won't notice a difference. For those who do know better, the ESC is between toy grade and hobby grade in my opinion. Good enough to get the job done but room for improvement.
dude appreciate all your help. got the QUICRUN 16BL30 ESC installed with a fresh deans connector solder on and what a difference. Its like I am not even driving the same truck. HW makes some really nice ESCs.
A new brand name ESC upgrades it from a toy to a hobby-ish rc
Awesome video, thanks for the help. My son and I are just getting into the hobby. I got the tires you recommend to start. Also bought the bezgar version coming in next week. Looking forward to more videos
If you're going to throw in the Hobbywing ESC I'd lower the punch to about 3 to save the diffs.
thats cool!. I run a 1/16 h16bm hyper go. 3s angry snail Lipo, locked diffs, hub extensions an 1/10 traxxas crawler wheels. upgraded suspension and the same quicrun esc. I got the quicrun idea from this vid. thanks
What shocks you run
Hi. Cool vid. Could you please explain exactly how you loosen the latch clip so it can be pulled up and closed over the taller 2200 Ovonic battery. I don't have the car in my possession, but am considering the purchase. Is there just a nut underneath the latch clip you can loosen a bit? Assume it's straight forward? Also if you put the battery in the opposite way (wries facing front of vehicle), is the body of the battery to tall to slide under the little plastic keepers at the back.
Finally, if you can be bothered and have the time, what is the tallest battery that will fit under the standard latch and keepers without any modification. Cheers.
If you feel comfortable taking the front upper section off you can use a screwdriver to loosen it...though it's probably easier to use a pliers and hold the screw while turning the latch counter-clockwise. Make sure to trim the hang down of the latch if you're using longer batteries and to put a piece of foam (the black thing in the vid below the power switch) to keep the steering linkage area open.
Yes the battery I'm using is too tall to fit under the back lip. The only reason I put the battery in backwards is because of the battery and ESC cable length, it fits under the body better this way. Without any changes 15mm is the tallest you can go. If you trim off the latch lip you can go 21mm. The back lip has the same clearance as the latch with the lip trimmed off.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thanks for this! I've been scouring RUclips and Facebook for hours trying to figure out which of the two ovonic 2200mah 3s batteries I should get. I'm still not entirely sure LOL.
The longer skinnier one is 101x31x20mm
And then the ones you're using..
So what you're saying here is that, if I do go with the longer skinnier one, all I'll need to do is trim the lip off the latch, and it should fit and give clearance for the steering linkage?
Sorry, I know you've tried to be painstakingly clear about this, but I'm having trouble deciding which overpriced battery I want to order through Amazon in Canada, since there are very little Alternatives that can be shipped to my area. Thanks again. 🙌
@@willpowerfpv3246 It's all good. 101mm is too long as it will be in the way of the steering linkage. 95mm is the longest I'd go. You'll want a battery that's at least 22mm tall so the latch can push down on the battery and help keep it in place. There's a little lip protruding by the steering linkage in the battery tray area. That is the absolute max length you can without getting in the way. Best thing to do is get some hard foam with adhesive on one end and make a little block to help keep the battery from shifting forward. The only reason I went with the batteries I did was because they were the highest capacity I could find that would still fit.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE amazing, thanks for that. OK, I'll go for the short fatties and trim the latch. I'll make it work. 🍻
I'm not sure, but the front light is connected via a 3-wire cable. However, the Injor's rear light has 2 cables. How did you connect the extra light?
Not sure what you mean by 3 wire. There's only 2 wires for each light on mine
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE Yes, you're right, my mistake. I was guided by the fact that the plug has 3 pins. But there are only 2 wires.
Does the 45a esc have a LVC for when you use your own lipo batteries? Or are you just estimating the voltage cut off time?
Are you talking about the one that comes with the RC or the Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL30? Both have LVC (3V for stock, adjustable for the HW) but I'd suggest not using the stock ESC as there's a 1 second delay with throttle inputs.
Hello man just wondering which parts i need to chagnge in my mjx 16208 to make it run on water. Can you perhaps help me 😅
How many lights/components can you put into the battery
What do you mean?
@ where you plug in the electrics to
@@sambosher2165 All depends on what receiver you use. 2 spots will always be taken by the ESC and steering servo. You can always use a splitter to have more connections.
@ Thank you and just wondering what would be the best battery you would recommend for the 16207-would it be a 3s 220mah?
I wish I could just upgrade the steering servo. New ESC does give it better response though. Just not sure how long the gears would last on 3s not giving it the double brake tap kind of deal in the fvd/rev. I have my stock one backed down on the throttle lol, but I use it for FPV so I'm not trying to blast off anyway. Problem is just on carpet or something the servo isn't strong enough to turn the tires hardly any at all so long as it's sitting still.
That's odd as the stock servo is strong enough for my setup. You can replace it with a sub-micro. You'd just need to cut off the side "wings" and drop it in. The gears are more than adequate. It's the screws that hold the diffs together that need to be stronger. I already broke them in the rear from hammering the throttle at a dead stop.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE It's strange cause I liked the servo when first seeing how responsive and fast it was, and it seemed good enough.. but even on a hard surface like smooth plastic it won't always turn the wheels all the way left or right. To be fair I've added a good deal of weight to it (for its size) but did notice the steering issue all stock just riding it on the carpet.
I'll try out another one just to see and clip the wings like you say. I wasn't sure about the whether the shaft would line up the same but I suppose it would.
@@Magneticitist One thing you can try doing is mod the servo horn for a tighter fit. There's 2 pieces to the horn. The part that goes over the servo spline and the arm that connects to the steering linkage. Take the horn apart and shave off just enough of the spline part so when the horn is together it's recessed a bit. That way the screw and spring hold the arm on tighter. You'll run the risk of stripping the servo gears easier (they're all metal so it won't be that easy) but you'll have a lot less slop in the steering. Email me if you want pics of what I'm talking about.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE You know what it turned out to just be the servo saver the whole time. It's just giving way on soft surfaces.
@@Magneticitist Glad I could help 🙂
How did you do the clipless body attachment thing? I have been looking for a way to do that but I have not found anything
I bought it that way. You can buy another truck that has the clipless body and move the mounts over. I'm sure if you go on eBay or ali you can find the body mounts as well.
Bit late to the party! The links are shortened so aren't valid. Can you re add them? Thanks 👍🏽
For the Amazon stuff just copy the characters after dp/ (ex. 1A2B3C4D5E) and paste into the search bar and they'll be the first item in the list
Hi. I have the same car, and bought the same Receiver. But the conectors of the car are bigger then the conection pins of the Receiver. How did you overcome this?
If you're talking about the plastic 3-pin plugs you'll have to shave off the tabs that prevent the plug from being inserted in the wrong direction. Take a pair of wire snips or a razor blade and cut it off. When inserting the plus just make sure you put them in in the right direction. On the receiver you'll see a little +, - and a square looking S. The S is for the signal wire which is white...though I've seen them yellow before
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thanks for the fast response. I check it out
I have the 16208 MJX Hyper Go and I'll tell you that its one of my favorite R/Cs in years AND the stock ESC is garbage. And I am pretty tolerant, but I don't even want to drive it. It pauses, brakes so hard the car crashed and ruined the body, doesn't respond to inputs, is erratic, etc. Is there any heating issues with the QUICRUN 16BL30 ESC and the stock 2845 motor? The junk that is in there now gets red hot just looking at it. lol
The 16BL30 stays quite cool even on 3S. The motor does get a bit warm but the fan does it's job
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE cool thanks dude. I got that and a fresh deans connector to add to the hobby wing. I love that rear LED brake light. Really cool.
@@goldenmanuever1176 If you plan on running yours on 3S I strongly suggest finding stronger screws for the front and rear diff housing. The stock ones have a bad habit of snapping off
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE in case I do snap them what screw upgrades do you recommend?
@@goldenmanuever1176 I'd suggest finding some fine thread steel screws and throw the stock coarse thread ones away. Preferably they should be a hair bigger in diameter than the stock screws (I haven't actually measured them). Screws of the same diameter should still work though.
If I upgrade the esc to yours, do I lose the GPS /app function ? I have the hypergo 1/16 GT with the gps
Yes you would. You can always buy gps modules to stick in/on the vehicle. The gps may be nice but there's nothing like a real esc
Iv got three questions for you! First of iv read you replaced the diff screws did yiu use a machine thread? And have you played around with diff oils? And what shock oil do yiu use the stock weight seems light as the shocks are alittle spring bound imo
Honestly I don't remember what screws I used. I used whatever I had laying around that worked. The springs I used are for a Losi Mini B I think, Losi mini something. Just trim them down to the same length. I'm running 70wt but I'm probably going to drop down to 60wt.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thank for that, and what weight diff oil are you using, my 16208 only arrived this week so iv not stripped it down yet but the diffs feel dry when you turn the wheels
@@SYST3M_OVERIDEand do you yiu have a link for the wheels
@@dualtrondreamteam6811 Just look for Pro-Line Trencher 2.2 Part# 1194-11
Have you found upgraded diffs for this car? I heard that was the weakest point. I haven't heard much about the esc delay, could it be that its only your car?
The only thing weak about the diffs are the 4 screws that hold them together. I've snapped them a few times just running the thing on the road. I tried 3 different ESCs and every single one had the delay. The ESC is a cheap POS knock-off of the HW 16BL30 that's been modified.
I wonder if someone's cracked open the stock ESC yet to see if its a real clone or not or what the compromises they made are.
It’s the transmitter and receiver that’s delayed. Swap them out
Could you be more specific on what esc and tires you have.
Hobbywing 16BL30 and Pro-Line Trencher 2.2 M2
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE mint just got 1 off Amazon with a new pair of shocks,now I need the tires. These tires are bigger than stock???
@@jonathandemaria1865 They are. Can't remember but how much though. You'll want to lower the
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE lower the what??
I love this truck. I put my radiolink rc6gs in it with a bad ass rx. Esc is still weird even with cnhl 100c 1500mah can't wait for the new 1
Nice setup, AUX Switch is good too. I will bulid the same :-)
This was so helpful and informative, thx bro!!
Can i safely run this battery if my truck is all Stock with No Upgrades?
The stock ESC is 3S capable so you should be fine
How do rate the OVONICS Lipo, compared to other similar spec and $ chinese batteries? Have you had much experience with them?
I only bought this battery set because it was the perfect size for this RC. Haven't really had much experience with them otherwise. I do however have a lot of HOOVO batteries from Amazon. Not sure if they're as good as say Gens Ace but for the price it's a no brainer.
Coming from the world of fpv quadcopter, ovonic has really stepped up their game in the last few years. I know a lot of guys running them, and I have a couple of 1300mah 6s packs with hundreds of Cycles on them, and they've been doing great. They're a bit heavy and chunky for the size, but I suppose that doesn't really matter with surface Vehicles, as long as they fit in the tray.
@@willpowerfpv3246 I mainly run HOOVO batteries in my larger RCs like my X Maxx. Probably not the best but they're super cheap for the capacity and I have yet to have any issues with them.
3s wouldnt damage the gears?!
Nope
Do 3s batteries have a longer run time than 2s batteries?
It all depends on the capacity. Theoretically a 3S 2000mAh battery will have the same runtime as a 2S 2000mAh battery. The difference is voltage. A fully charged 3S will be at 12.6V (4.2V per cell). A fully charged 2S will be at 8.4V. The more volts the faster the motor will spin. There are HV versions of Li-Po batteries that can do 4.35V per cell but you'd have to make sure the ESC you're planning on using can support them.
Where u buy rear bumper with led
?
The LED bar is in the description. I cut a slot in the bumper and epoxied it in
Would you say that’s the safest battery to use in this or is the 3s Zeee 3200 50 okay to use?
I've never tried Zee batteries. Honestly it's down to whatever battery fits the best. You can ignore C ratings on nearly every brand battery especially the cheap ones as that rating is highly exaggerated.
I have two Zeee 2S 2200mAh batteries and at 1C charge / discharge rate I measured them to have actually 2500mAh which is super refreshing with all the bloody lying manufacturers. I can not say if this is always the case for Zeee batteries but at least my batch was a good one. I think the 2200 mAh are too long for my 16207/16210 however. I am planning to 3D print myself some holding adapters for bigger batteries however some time in the future.
Ovonic 3s short pack, do they fit well, I know they're soft packs but do they get damaged?
I am about to buy the 16208 and am only getting 1 original battery, I prefer to use my own balance charger.
Just wondering if the Ovonics are worth the $ and fit.
You will have to cut the latch lip off and loosen the latch clip, but after that they fit perfectly. Soft packs are actually pretty strong as long as you don't puncture them. Definitely a worthwhile purchase. I get almost a half hour of runtime with moderate use and about 20 mins of hard use.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thx for the reply, I am getting mixed info from the manufacturer citing the battery is 26 mm in height.
- Length(dev.5mm) : 76mm
- Width(dev.2mm) : 34mm
- Height(dev.2mm) : 26mm
It's a bit of a pita, I was speaking to the distributor of the the car today and they claimed they would get 20 mins off a 3S 1300 mAH lipo?
I hate the proprietary batteries as I want to use my own charger, I know you only need a JST cable, but again I was mislead somewhat from the distributor who could not tell me exactly what I needed.
If I just need a 3S balance cable to enable me to use my charger, that's all I need to know.
The guy I was talking to today just couldn't answer definitively if I did.
I can get the 16208 with 1 2S battery for 145 AUD, I can get the 16207 with 2 3S batteries for 170. So it's an extra $25 AUD to go from a single 2S to 2 3S. Super cheap.
You can see my issue here and I prefer the 16208 as it has a flexible bumper with clip on body + higher clearance.
They just do not come with the 3S batteries where I live, so I am looking at a cost effective solution without having to go too extreme.
Are the stock 3S batteries ok to use?
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE I will add too, I have a WLtoys 124016 which the radio had a major deadspot.
I swapped it out for the FlySky FS-GT2 and I fixed the deadspot.
Do I need a new ESC or is it the radio?
@@DankePlace I've never owned the stock 3S batteries but I have used aftermarket 3S on the stock ESC and it works perfectly fine. It's the delay of the ESC that convinced me to change it to the Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL30. The receiver that comes with the truck is actually pretty good for what it is. The Ovonic is 75mm x 32mm x 25mm.
@@DankePlace I don't own that vehicle but for the Hyper Go the delay is definitely with the ESC. I originally thought it was the receiver so I threw in a Spektrum SR315 and the delay was still there. I tried the stock receiver with the Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL30 and while there is a small deadspot, there's no input delay. If you don't need super fine throttle control you can save money and use the stock receiver. I wouldn't use it in something like my X Maxx but for 10th scale and smaller it's perfectly fine.
Do you like the ovonic packs?
They work pretty good for the intended purpose. Maybe a half hour of hard throttle...though it's hard to keep the throttle pinned as it wants to backflip all the time if you do
Did you use programing card for ESC or factory setup is ok for this car?
Factory setup is fine but I did program it. I changed the LVC to 6, start mode to 7, max brake force to 2 and timing to 4. If you leave the stock tires on you can leave the brake force and timing alone. If you're starting off with the brushless model you can use the receiver it comes with and you won't need the AUX switch.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE I tried to use a FlySky GT-5 and receiver FS-BS6 with the stock ESC, but it is not working well. There is a big delay for throttle and sometimes it is going to wrong direction for a second. Did you try your Spektrum radio with stock ESC?
@@ondrej3934 I did. I found that the delay is with the stock ESC and not the receiver. I'm actually using the receiver the Hyper Go came with in a buggy I upgraded to brushless and it works perfectly. About the wrong directing, just swap the outer 2 plugs.
How did you get your lights working with the switch on your remote?
I used an AUX switch (listed in the description) connected to the AUX 1 on the receiver. I assigned the channel to G on the transmitter
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thank you
You can probably splice the led bar into the front bar? Maybe try series or parallel?
Where can I get those rear lights brother ??
They're the 32mm ones. www.amazon.com/INJORA-Lights-Exalted-Crawler-Traxxas/dp/B08MC1LLMV/
I got these exact batteries but for the life of me I can’t see how you get that battery holder up and over. Even after trimming off the underside little stopper making it flush, it’s not even close to reaching the clip, even pulling it up like you do with that little hook and wire. Did you make any other mods to get that to work that I’m not seeing??
You have to loosen the screw that the latch clip is held on with. Just use a pliers and hold the screw head and twist the clip counter-clockwise a few times till you can get the latch secured over the battery.
can be installed on mjx 16210?
I don't see why not. I have the brushed version of 16207 and I installed the 16BL30 and a 2430 brushless motor in it.
What was the upgrade
Name brand ESC and receiver, bigger tires and a rear light bar
Hi noob here, if I change my esc do I need to change the motor too or stock motor is fine? Also did u changed the steering servo too?
The stock motor is perfectly fine. Just make sure the ESC you put in uses 3.5mm bullet connectors for the motor. The servo has metal gears and is quite fast. I wouldn't recommend changing it unless you have money to burn.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE thank you also, did u had to do any soldering work to attach esc wires to the motor?
@@sachirasandeepadilshan8703 For the motor no. Tamiya connector to a deans required soldering.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE esc also comes with a deans plug version right?
@@sachirasandeepadilshan8703 It only comes with a Tamiya connector.
Hey man that’s a sick setup! Btw you upgraded the steering servo? I have the same car model and apparently my servo is causing some connection troubles with the receiver and the controller, idk what servo is better for this car. I’m new to rc with this H16BM car, any suggestions? Appreciate it man, I subscribed!
I'm still running the stock servo. The one that comes with the brushless motor is actually quite good for what it is. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if the issue wasn't the servo but the receiver itself...if you're using the receiver it came with. You'll have a hard time finding an aftermarket servo to throw in. The stock one is sized a bit odd if I remember correctly. It doesn't have the mounting "wings" so if you do replace it you'll have to cut them off
Nice setup. I just picked up a hypergo and i feel it could use a bigger set of wheels and tires. Are those the factory tires?
They aren't. They're Pro-Line Trencher 2.2" M2 wheels meant for the Traxxas E-Revo 1/16. They come in packs of 2 and are $35 each. If you put them on make sure to lower the wheelie bar to the lowest position
Right on!
35$ for a set of 2. OUCH that one hurt me right in the wallet. :(
Specs of the motor? Thank!
It's the stock motor. 2845 4200kv
Thank you for sharing, did going with a smaller amp ESC make it any slower? I wonder if the stock esc can be tuned?
Actually it's faster than the stock ESC (which can't be programmed. I tried) even before I put the larger tires on. The stock ESC is perfectly fine for young children as most won't notice a difference. For those who do know better, the ESC is between toy grade and hobby grade in my opinion. Good enough to get the job done but room for improvement.
@@SYST3M_OVERIDE I guess, quality matters, hopefully we get to see you bashing your? Thanks
Nah bro. I have a 4s swap 10bl120 with 5900kv motor, using fpv drone 100c 4s lipo battery, mine dies like 90mph. Has an aero kit I made too
Nice
Beast