Rotolight Neo 3 Pro Quick Setup with Fuji Camera (XH2s) and Godox X2T Flash Trigger
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Setting up the Rotolight Neo 3 Pro with the Fuji camera using a Godox Remote Trigger requires specific set up.
1. The Fuji shutter must be in mechanical shutter!
2. The flash trigger needs to be set for a specific group (in this example A) and to manual mode. The Rotolight does NOT work in TTL mode.
3. You need to scan for the best frequencies each time you use the system.
4. You need to set the channel to one of the recommended frequencies.
5. The Rotolight needs to be set  for the associated remote trigger. In this case, Godox
6. The Rotolight needs to be set in slave mode.
7. The frequency and group need to match the Godox trigger.
The rest of the video shows you how to adjust the intensity of the light, the warmth of the light, how to choose different preset, gels, or any of the colors on the color spectrum. It also shows you how to adjust a modeling light.
Hope this helps !
Thanks Michael. I couldn’t find these basic steps anywhere! Simply choosing the correct frequency was the answer for me. Why couldn’t rotolight make this obvious in their guides? They make big deal of trigger alternatives then only detail the elinchrome!,,
Dude you have a friend for life , I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure this out because Roto doesn't send out anything helpful , you saved me more hours of wasting time working on this thanks.
6:05 actually that is the Flash DURATION which happens to affect the power output (the faster the setting, the lower the output because the light prioritizes the flash duration and it needs to reduce power to match the desired flash duration). The actual power output setting is on the left (the one that reads MAX+) where you can set it to MAX+, MAX, ½ which are fixed settings..and x8 and x16 which are finer grained outputs based on the setting of the modeling light (which is set to 11% here)...note however, that these settings, too, are reduced further if you set your shutter speed faster than 1/50s ...which is probably why Rotolight "recommends" it to 1/50s because i believe 1/50s is the t1 flash duration...even though it's not written in its specifications...compare that to most other non-LED flashes that starts at around 1/250s (even the cheap ones) for t1 flash duration. It's kind of annoying that Rotolight has no decent explanation of these settings in their manual...
Dexter - thanks for the detailed tutorial on the flash power settings!
Slap like! --- This stuff is not in the manual!
B ((( Rotolight / Sony Pocket Flash Important Information )))
Hello for those individuals that are thinking about purchasing the NEO PRO and the AEOS PRO lights. You need to be aware that these lights are only half the power of a Standard pocket flash. I did a thorough test on these lights with my Seckonic Light Meter for absolute accuracy. I set the AEOS Pro & a on Camera Flash 6 feet from my light meter. I then set my ISO at 500 I set the shutter speed at 250th of a second and my aperture at 2.8 . Using Flash at max power with the AEOS Pro then adjusting my on Camera Flash to match the exact same Power outage as the AEOS Pro . And found that the AEOS Pro was half the power of a 80 W. Pocket flash / on Camera Flash. Please understand what I am saying it is extremely important for you to know that these lights are only have to power of an on camera flash.
Half the power that’s it. If you would like to know more I have placed a comment below this one to give you much more information if you are truly interested.
A ((( Rotolight / Sony Pocket Flash Important Information )))
Hello for all of the individuals that are looking at Rotolight AEOS PRO & the NEO PRO and wondering if this product is for you let me give you some information that might help you make a Better / Proper decision.
I will be directing my comments about the AEOS PRO and the NEO PRO. If you are working in a controlled environment like a studio where you have absolute control over your lighting. Or if you are using these lights for videography absolutely that’s where these light shine. I would give these lights to 10 rating with videography.
Or if you are shooting outdoors in a very gloomy or cloudy day and you are OK with your lights only being 2 to 3 feet from your subject. Then these two lights will work perfectly fine for you.
But if you are working in an environment where there is a significant amount of window light or your environment has a sufficient amount of lighting provided. You will find that these lights are extremely limiting your creative workflow.
If you notice they never use a light meter indicating to their viewers the strength or the lack of strength the lights provide.
That all being said I have to give the lights credit where credit is due they do have amazing technology incredible technology wrapped up in these lights. It is the power of the lights that I have an issue with and Only the power.
I was sucked in by all of the technology and truly did not realize the environment that they were using the lights in. Either in a very dark environment or very low lit environment. Even when they use them outdoors notice that the environment is very gloomy or cloudy. It is never a bright sunny day. And if they ever do noticed that it is only highlighting the subject making them stand out just enough. But if you try and darken the situation add more contrast to the picture add your creative touch it’s not going to happen in a bright environment the lights are not strong enough.
I have given you a link below of two individuals that has pretty much done the same testing as I have. I think mine was a little bit more precise. That being said I would watch the video all the way through so you’re able to come to your own conclusion.
ruclips.net/video/zFNGbkmG1sU/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/uSjsRPe9ajA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/8iUIKUXm3Po/видео.html