New boot (trunk) build Part 2

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  • Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024

Комментарии • 16

  • @JasonWW2000
    @JasonWW2000 2 месяца назад +4

    I was just thinking, if you could flip the sub over and drop it's level down a little you could almost have a shelf that covers everything and would give you lot's of practical storage space.

    • @RAW-CAt
      @RAW-CAt  2 месяца назад

      Won't fit, the sub is way to deep. The old 15 barely fit, and this is a bigger 18in.

  • @sqcaraudio
    @sqcaraudio 2 месяца назад +6

    Get your little girl to do the wiring diagram plan.

    • @RAW-CAt
      @RAW-CAt  2 месяца назад +3

      😂😂😂

  • @davidtimmerman3121
    @davidtimmerman3121 2 месяца назад

    i can't wait to see the end result. i wish i could hear all these systems that you talk about and show, but, alas, i live in the southeastern US where boom is king and i am bored.

  • @neilziesmer6109
    @neilziesmer6109 2 месяца назад +1

    LOOKING GOOD MAN . ALOT CLEANER

  • @tommyshoe-star1426
    @tommyshoe-star1426 2 месяца назад

    really like the hinges thingy, looking very clean
    looks like I was thinking way too complex with my trunk build :/

  • @Mark_5150
    @Mark_5150 2 месяца назад

    Those hinges are a great idea, I need something like that for my install.

  • @JasonWW2000
    @JasonWW2000 2 месяца назад +2

    Off topic question, have you ever measured the wattage your front stage speakers use in everyday listening?
    I bought a bassheadgarage watt meter and have been experimenting with it. On my front stage it shows I barely use a watt or two of power. That's really surprising. When it shows 1 watt I would have guessed 10 or 15. It's really bizarre. If true I might seek out a 30w x 2 tube amp or something to run my front stage. Lol
    I suspect the watt meter is reading a bit low at low power levels. I think I can verify by running a 1k tone and add a separate amp meter and volt meter then multiply to get the wattage. I'll have the other watt meter measuring at the same time. That should work, right?

    • @RAW-CAt
      @RAW-CAt  2 месяца назад +3

      That seems about right. My whole system full tilt draws about 800W so just a couple of watts for the front end seems to be reasonable. Remember, tweeters and mids need 1W each to play ~95dB.so 4 watts in total.

  • @Mark_5150
    @Mark_5150 Месяц назад

    How did you wire your relay for remote turn on? Without a common ground from the isolated battery to the car's trigger does the relay work?
    I have the same setup and have to manually turn the remote on with a wire from the system battery to a switch In the front and back to be my remote.

    • @RAW-CAt
      @RAW-CAt  Месяц назад +1

      My remote for the DSP is piggy backed from +12V of the DSP itself and goes through a relay. The relay connects +12V and remote in for the DSP. The relay powered from the cars ignition. So ignition enables relay and the relay connects DSP in with the positive. Not sure if it makes sense😅

  • @somelegend1526
    @somelegend1526 2 месяца назад

    When do you apply the smoooothing

  • @colbylaro9361
    @colbylaro9361 2 месяца назад

    Are you still liking the taramps?

    • @RAW-CAt
      @RAW-CAt  2 месяца назад

      There is nothing not to like. It does everything without skipping a beat. The only downside to it is that it's tall. Quite a bit taller than any other component in my system.

  • @sqcaraudio
    @sqcaraudio 2 месяца назад

    Hallo