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Don't forget you still will need to get to the stop light bulbs to change them from time to time.

I like the new concept. Bear in mind that these vents are not only for AC. They let pressure out every time you close the door or trunk and play a crucial role in ventilation and preventing moisture buildup. There are two of them for a reason. I would not block any of them if the car is meant for daily driving and If you'd seal both you would likely regret it. Also, cutting IB holes in the wheel wells sounds like a recipe for road noise to me ;-)

link's to the drivers you use?

Hey my vehicle has dash speakers at 8 ohm and front door 6x9 midbass at 4 ohm. When wired in parallel give 2.7 ohm. Just wondering can I build my own component set - meaning pick speaker replacements how would I know if their output levels will match? I liked the look of the lavoce wideband from one of your videos and there's a brand in the states called cdt that makes a lot of nice midbass drivers that people speak highly of. I was going to put a 500hz high pass filter and low pass filter on them, but just wondering now about their output levels if it's ok for me to do this? The lavoce is 89.5 db sensitive, 30w RMS, the cdt hd-690cfs is 89 db sensitive, 90w RMS. I'm planning on using an android head unit to gain some more control over the speakers, I just haven't seen the eq/DSP functions of it yet to know how much control.

I looked up the brax 12 channel dsp and that machine cost 6,500 U.S. the Brax is for the rich & extreme listeners

I love the way you glue the wires. It definitely looks best. Would you mind explaining how you get it so nice, please?

Dear John , Thank you for the great shring❤ I understand ,thats video is for car. Do you have a video for home theather ? THX

I was sold on a front sub, but that was the simplest explanation I have heard! Thank you so much!

Illusion Audio has the C3CX, so why not opt for a coaxial in a pod and just build a recess into the A-pillar to help the pod block less of your visibility? Then you can omit the separate tweeter.

I am pretty sure octavia takes 8inch speakers in doors... That would solve your low bass issue

How can I get this app you're using so I can research a bunch of midrange drivers and subwoofers to help me choose proper drivers that fit within my budget and application locations?

Dude ao true. Unbiased just facts. As a side not I like your arguments against what Bassdad said on the D4S mini Max.

Just wanted to pop in and say thank you very much for making this content. You're very thorough in explanation, inspiring, and motivational. You have me determined to get good clean amplifiers and a DSP and doing a similar build to your final and ultimate build. Only thing is I don't understand infinite baffles much or how to properly prepare for them or which subwoofers make for good candidates.

Dayton Audio has got some inexpensive AMT Tweeters, i will potentially get some of them for my own Speaker for my room

In my experience those Helix 8 inchers don't have the guts to play loud at the low frequencies you need for good IB sub transition. They play, yes, but to keep up with SQL levels? Not a chance. Maybe with careful tuning and if you can push the electrical HPF to 50Hz 24db/oct, there's a chance you won't destroy them at high levels, but I'd be very careful. I recently tuned a system with those in a Porsche 992 and I had to get pretty aggressive with the HPF in order for them to cope with any level above speaking level. A bit disappointing for 8 inchers, but I guess the shallow profile comes with downsides. Maybe it was just this specific car in question, but the install was done properly, the equipment was pretty nice and still this was the weakest link in the whole system - not nice on such a special brand new car... I hope your experience with these is better than mine.

They either do stuff a whole lot different over there in the UK, or this dude is just plan out CRAZY 😜!!!!

Nice plan. Those old Alpine amps are no joke.

Those transitions to the equipment placed...genius! 🔥

Thanks!

Would like to know if the headunit voltage is high for the amp input sensitivity, what will happen, and also, should i leave the gain alone????

For the steel baffle, you could design a shape in CAD (or even draw on paper) and approach to a shop that has a plasma table to have them cut out the exact shape. Instead of welding, you could design in a flange or two so that you can bolt the assembly in, and then go over any seams with a sealant (butyl rope, seam sealer, etc.) and a layer of CLD

will you make a video or small tutorial about the amp repainting and clean up? i got some old amps that could really use that too and a tutorial would be nice!

Been learning a fortune from you - thank you! I recently completed my build with the goal of not having a box in the boot. I went with a sealed 8-inch Rockford P2D2 (30hz-85hz) under the dash on the driver's side, however, to make up for more volume I created a PVC piping system in a U-shape going around the steering column that connects into the MDF enclosure - it added the extra 5L needed. Then, under the seats I have Dayton LW150's (85hz-225hz) in sealed boxes however, they are downward firing because Mazda has a whole bunch of stuff on the floor. The boxes are attached to the underside of the seats, which gives some tactile feedback (not overbearing) but adds to the bass experience. I am extremely satisfied with how clean and hard it plays.

Recently I got an alpine 3537 and I use it to power my tweeters. Very good sound. In the owner's manual it shows SNR 110db, but in the service manual it shows 100db. Do you know which one is correct?

I've had the exact same setup, I made the subwoofer box out of polyester. I simply put down a big sheet of plastic in the trunk and made a wood piece as the bottom of the subwoofer in the shape of the side of the trunk, then I first made the inside of the box of polyester(attached to the wood bottom), let it cure and then took the thing out. Then saw off the excess poly so I had a nice tub with rounded edges. Then I made a ring which fitted the subwoofer and attached it to the tub. Then I took a duvet cover and pulled it over the tub and attached it with staples to the ring and pulled it down and put polyester on it. Then 5 more layers of glas and it was a solid box. I also put the midranges on the dash with the same technique, shaped a little box in the corner of the dash with polyester, made rings, pulled fabric over it then polyester and reenforce with glass. I tested quite a bit and I think the best staging is achieved with the midrange pointing at the same angle(left facing the passenger and right facing you). Then do the staging with time alignment.

I would love to learn more about your lithium charging system. I am overly paranoid about messing with my stock electrical and have a secondary AMG and ultra cap but I really want litium but am trying to find options to safely add lithium. My OEM alternator is 14V and I have seen it spike on a cold start up in the winter hitting 15.8V and worry about lithium seeing spikes like that. Can you please explain how this DC to DC converter works for our application as I have quickly looked at these but have no idea what I am looking for in regard to specs for one of these and would love to be able to safely add a lithium LTO battery to my build when I finally get the install going, this is one of main factors holding me back from starting the installation.

Sounds like an absolutely crazy plan 😂👌👌 I'm Curious about the build and the result 😄

really dumb thinking

NICE PLAN CAN'T WAIT

2 18s would look very nice

I thought those vents were to relieve pressure if the airbags deploy

I am in the same position regarding the battery. I want to install an additional battery but don't want to jave to deal with the BMS. It is an Audi A8 aand the BMS is very tricky

Flaps are not for AC. Their purpose is to let the air out when you close the door so to not have pressure build up suddenly.

Im trying to do a build myself on my new car and ao far ive replaced my dash speakers with cdt unity 8 plus. Now i just need to install my zapco 10ch amp/dsp. I may use a mono depending on how 240 watts push my sql12. Im going for SQL so i may use the jp23 i have.

I can't wait to see this new project. Love your videos, man.

You have the makings of a nice stealth system there. Some careful fabrication and you'd never know it's there!

My simple system is still my only system a year later.

2 x 18 is a must for your project. Not only more fun but for visuals as well. The right side of the boot will look empty without a sub.

Subwoofer model ?

AMT dont have to be expensive. Omnes Audio AMT60.1 or AMT50 are not much money.

Do all vehicles suck in the uk?

can you do a rear deck "ib" install video with some 10-12 inch subs? would love to see some measurements.

Nice transition to the different components. I really liked it

Beautiful Project Mate ! 🎊 🎉❤

You want to build it in steel?? 😮 Looking forward to see that "thing" come alive!

Two 18s, yes baby please!

Ditch the pods, please! You're suffocating those drivers 😢

That 3539 was my first amplifier back in the 90's, really surprised you have one still kicking and to hear that it measures really clean

Do you have any more info on the MOT risks of IB? Are they looking for something in particular?

Looking forward to seeing the progress!