Thanks for the videos I enjoy them very much. Just a little hint, never let a machine shop clean your heads by baking and blasting. The studs will come out a lot of the time.
well im trying to show stuff that people can do thier self.thats how i learned a lot of what i do is by watching others and jumping in and getting hands dirty
damn man....that's a slick piece of kit! does the job that should have been done at the factory in the first place. i guess we have bean counters to thank for pressed in studs. another example of building down to a price point rectified. thanks for doing the vid ;->
i remove the hydraulic lifter out of the the 350 eng on the 94 chey trk 3/4 ton i remove the inner parts of the lifter an the small cylinder inside of the lifter the tool i use is (RED HEAD SLEEVE ANCHOR BOLT 3/8-3in ) they were really stuck an that bolt did a great job removing the small cylinder,now do i have to re oil them over night before in stalling them back in the motor maybe you can pass this to your viewer about the anchor bolt who cant afford the special tool to remove the inside cylinder like me thank you like your videos
On a 78 chevy 350 (non vortec) with comp cam 292H and roller rockers does it matter if you use straight studs like you used in your video vs. studs with hex nut built in on the middle part of the stud? Im helping a neighbor kid fix his heads and I'm experienced with engines but am concerned if the hex nut will interfere with a higher lift cam. Is there any reason you didn't choose the studs with the hex nuts built in on your engine? Any help appreciated. Thanks
ok unless you have taken the heads to machine shop and have the bosses milled down for the hex style you will have to use the straight ones like i did.
the springs are not binding . the reason i replaced them is cause they are push in studs which pull out when using bigger cams is what was going on.the shop i used at the time wasnt doing the correct stuff had issues but now its better.
@@tlcbear2 No worries brother, what's important is u got back to me lol I appreciate that! That's what I'll do, went with all comp cams hardware and z28 springs and I won't worry about trying to reuse them eye sores lol thanks again
@@tlcbear2 Elgin actually now came out with the studs that have the hex base that can be used without machining also. The PN# RDS2920K. Probably somewhat new cause I remember last time I looked there wasn't any out yet
@@SSinisterXCI they do look the same but the overall length is shorter to accommodate the bosses being taller. I think there still on amazon and there description says it also I talked with the seller. But if u look at the thread length and overall length vs reg studs you'll see the difference
@@SSinisterXCI Here is the description I just got from amazon and copied and pasted here for you: Description This listing is for a brand new set of screw-in rocker arm studs. Set includes 16 studs with shoulder. They are designed to replace the stock style press-in studs on small block Chevy V8 engines without having to machine the stud boss down on the head. Just pull the old studs and tap the holes to 7/16"-14 coarse threads. 3/8"-24 Fine thread TOPS and 7/16"-14 Coarse thread Bottoms. 2.325" Overall stud length. 1.600" Stud height 0.725" Screw-in thread depth. Features & details 3/8"-24 Fine thread Tops & 7/16"-14 Coarse thread Bottoms Material: 190,000 PSI Alloy Steel 1.600" Stud height 0.725" Screw-in thread depth
@@tlcbear2 Yea i think i am going to try it on the engine. The intake is off so if anything falls through I can suck out the tap shavings though the port The Tool is cheap to line up the studs and the stud kit from pioneer is also cheap priced.
@@tlcbear2 yea i have the intake manifold off so I can just suck it up. Think im going to half ass it and only change the stud that is pulled and see if it runs w/o tapping If any more want to loosen up ill fix as I go :) Pioneer makes the studs Summit has the guide for like $14.99 I think. Did you have to drill out the pulled stud hole on any?
@@tlcbear2 ruclips.net/video/6j0RR9lRVZY/видео.html Pulled.. Maybe the slightly stiffer valve springs did it. I had old crappy gas in it too and it barely started and ran on it. After cranking it for like 40 seconds and no fire.. I drained the gas. Put new fuel in, Started right up and "tickticktickticktickticktick" That was 5 months ago. I thought i had a bad lifter or a wiped cam lobe. Nope. Its like new. Then it got extremely hot and rained everyday for 5 months. Then a hurricane.
hello,, i didnt use the alignment tool,,,my fault...i tapped in new stud, but now its off center, what would be your next step?, try to re-tapp it again using the tool? thanks, trying to do this myself,,,i just ordered alignment tool from summit, thanks for your help great videos!
well you may have to take it to machine shop and have them put on mill and drill it for a heli coil to fix it now is the only thing i can come up with right now.
Question I just did this on my sbc 350 and the alignment block goes on the rockers no problem but when I put a straight edge down the rocker studs like 2 of the 8 are a hair of the straight edge nothing drastic and the alignment block goes on fine is this gonna be a problem or no thanks for any info
I have them on now with roller tip rockers they all long up decent a lil off center on the valve one is a lil more off center but from what I’ve read a lot of old sbc heads were casted that way and it’s not a crazy high rpm horsepower engine so I’m thinking it shld be ok well kinda hoping anyways cuz I’m not sure but I’ve seen a lot of ppl having the same issues and running them and being ok thanks for the reply if you have a opinion on being off center some on the valves I’d appreciate it
prolly way to late in answering, but I got mine thru Jegs, -- COMP Cams Rocker Stud Puller and Tap Guide. part# 249-5306. They're $32.99 ea. Summit Racing sells one from Proform for about $17.99. part# 66783. course I found that out a bit late.
Развлечения
Thanks for the videos I enjoy them very much. Just a little hint, never let a machine shop clean your heads by baking and blasting. The studs will come out a lot of the time.
never have had anything heat cleaned yet always been acid baths but that makes a lot of sense thanks.
i wish i knew what i was doing but if i keep watching you i am learning thank you very much
well im trying to show stuff that people can do thier self.thats how i learned a lot of what i do is by watching others and jumping in and getting hands dirty
Looking good Rod glad to see you are doing better
thanks it takes time but im getting there
Thanks for the video! I found a Comp Cam part number 5306 tool.
glad to helped
damn man....that's a slick piece of kit! does the job that should have been done at the factory in the first place. i guess we have bean counters to thank for pressed in studs. another example of building down to a price point rectified. thanks for doing the vid ;->
your welcome
Great video but alot of background noise
Dam bro went way too fast threading that lol nice video though
i remove the hydraulic lifter out of the the 350 eng on the 94 chey trk 3/4 ton i remove the inner parts of the lifter an the small cylinder inside of the lifter the tool i use is (RED HEAD SLEEVE ANCHOR BOLT 3/8-3in ) they were really stuck an that bolt did a great job removing the small cylinder,now do i have to re oil them over night before in stalling them back in the motor maybe you can pass this to your viewer about the anchor bolt who cant afford the special tool to remove the inside cylinder like me thank you like your videos
On a 78 chevy 350 (non vortec) with comp cam 292H and roller rockers does it matter if you use straight studs like you used in your video vs. studs with hex nut built in on the middle part of the stud? Im helping a neighbor kid fix his heads and I'm experienced with engines but am concerned if the hex nut will interfere with a higher lift cam. Is there any reason you didn't choose the studs with the hex nuts built in on your engine? Any help appreciated. Thanks
ok unless you have taken the heads to machine shop and have the bosses milled down for the hex style you will have to use the straight ones like i did.
They are bending because the springs are compressing all the way. That's too big a cam for those stock springs and oil guards.
Been down this road. Those heavy ass oil guards on the springs make them too hot and take up a bit of lift space.
the springs are not binding . the reason i replaced them is cause they are push in studs which pull out when using bigger cams is what was going on.the shop i used at the time wasnt doing the correct stuff had issues but now its better.
I have an 84 Corvette 350. When tapping for screw in studs should I be concerned where the shavings go, if I leave the heads on the car?
yes on the motor they can get into intake runners it is better to do it off the car then on.
Helpful video. I'm trying to replace my pressed in studs on my 350. Where did you find the guide tap and your studs?
the place i got it from is no longer around. but speed way motors out of nebraska has them
Summit racing sells them
Do I have to have those caps that go on top of the springs? Not the retainers but the thin deeper cup or cap looking parts on top
sorry for slow get back been gone now i am home. those thin tin cups i usually get rid of those
@@tlcbear2 No worries brother, what's important is u got back to me lol I appreciate that! That's what I'll do, went with all comp cams hardware and z28 springs and I won't worry about trying to reuse them eye sores lol thanks again
Great job with the video btw!!!!
So the studs you used didn't require any machining to the bosses, so studs without a hex "head" can be used on factory heads with no milling?
yes if they have big base they have to be machined.
@@tlcbear2 Elgin actually now came out with the studs that have the hex base that can be used without machining also. The PN# RDS2920K. Probably somewhat new cause I remember last time I looked there wasn't any out yet
@@jjmccloud where did you get this info from? looking them up they look like regular studs with shoulders still.
@@SSinisterXCI they do look the same but the overall length is shorter to accommodate the bosses being taller. I think there still on amazon and there description says it also I talked with the seller. But if u look at the thread length and overall length vs reg studs you'll see the difference
@@SSinisterXCI
Here is the description I just got from amazon and copied and pasted here for you:
Description
This listing is for a brand new set of screw-in rocker arm studs. Set includes 16 studs with shoulder. They are designed to replace the stock style press-in studs on small block Chevy V8 engines without having to machine the stud boss down on the head. Just pull the old studs and tap the holes to 7/16"-14 coarse threads. 3/8"-24 Fine thread TOPS and 7/16"-14 Coarse thread Bottoms. 2.325" Overall stud length. 1.600" Stud height 0.725" Screw-in thread depth.
Features & details
3/8"-24 Fine thread Tops & 7/16"-14 Coarse thread Bottoms
Material: 190,000 PSI Alloy Steel
1.600" Stud height 0.725" Screw-in thread depth
Cool
I used an impact on mine to get them out lol
We over torqued our stud nut. I found the alignment tool on jegs. What kind of tap kit did you use for This?
i will have to look when i get to shop tuesday not sure right now.
Cool I was wrong I guess the pressed ones just pulled out while being torqued down.
How far down do I cut the threads? Will I feel it bottom out?
depending on head some bottom out and some dont
Hey what size is the tap?
I replaced the rocker arm studs on my 283 Chevy with screw in studs. Now my pushrods are too short. So what size pushrods should I use now?
what style of studs did you use? if you used a shoulder style the bosses need milled down.
@@tlcbear2 yeah those are the ones I used.
kool
What size of tap did you use
How it hold up? I think i need to do this on my TBI 305 one #3 intake been pulled higher on it... Been broke for months
Worked just fine didn't ever have any issues
@@tlcbear2 Yea i think i am going to try it on the engine. The intake is off so if anything falls through I can suck out the tap shavings though the port The Tool is cheap to line up the studs and the stud kit from pioneer is also cheap priced.
@@GhettoWagon yes stuff paper towels in the intake runners so chips don't fall past valves
@@tlcbear2 yea i have the intake manifold off so I can just suck it up. Think im going to half ass it and only change the stud that is pulled and see if it runs w/o tapping If any more want to loosen up ill fix as I go :) Pioneer makes the studs Summit has the guide for like $14.99 I think. Did you have to drill out the pulled stud hole on any?
@@tlcbear2 ruclips.net/video/6j0RR9lRVZY/видео.html Pulled.. Maybe the slightly stiffer valve springs did it. I had old crappy gas in it too and it barely started and ran on it. After cranking it for like 40 seconds and no fire.. I drained the gas. Put new fuel in, Started right up and "tickticktickticktickticktick" That was 5 months ago. I thought i had a bad lifter or a wiped cam lobe. Nope. Its like new. Then it got extremely hot and rained everyday for 5 months. Then a hurricane.
hello,, i didnt use the alignment tool,,,my fault...i tapped in new stud, but now its off center, what would be your next step?, try to re-tapp it again using the tool? thanks, trying to do this myself,,,i just ordered alignment tool from summit, thanks for your help great videos!
well you may have to take it to machine shop and have them put on mill and drill it for a heli coil to fix it now is the only thing i can come up with right now.
thanks! i just took it in today to a local machine shop,,,i hope it turns out ok...thanks again
if they are a good shop they should get it done for ya no problem .
cool
Question I just did this on my sbc 350 and the alignment block goes on the rockers no problem but when I put a straight edge down the rocker studs like 2 of the 8 are a hair of the straight edge nothing drastic and the alignment block goes on fine is this gonna be a problem or no thanks for any info
if they are to far out of align it could be a problem. from what your saying sounds like you should be fine.
I have them on now with roller tip rockers they all long up decent a lil off center on the valve one is a lil more off center but from what I’ve read a lot of old sbc heads were casted that way and it’s not a crazy high rpm horsepower engine so I’m thinking it shld be ok well kinda hoping anyways cuz I’m not sure but I’ve seen a lot of ppl having the same issues and running them and being ok thanks for the reply if you have a opinion on being off center some on the valves I’d appreciate it
I guess your not worried about metal filing in the cooling system
Where do you get the stud guide for tapping?
prolly way to late in answering, but I got mine thru Jegs, -- COMP Cams Rocker Stud Puller and Tap Guide. part# 249-5306. They're $32.99 ea. Summit Racing sells one from Proform for about $17.99. part# 66783. course I found that out a bit late.
how did this hold up?
held up just fine
hey bear where ya get the stud tool
i got it years ago and i found it again its still made but i cant remeber where i found it again
How's Walter been?
Can shavings fall in to the motor ?
yes they can.looking back i should have used grease on the tap to catch more of the shavings.
@@tlcbear2 I pulled the head thanks
How are you doing
doing better now.today tho fighting a strong headache but im still going